I pulled the 1.8 out of my car because the compression was down to 80-85 on all 4 cylinders and I had a spaer engine which had compression reading at 120.
I swapped over all the injection and intake parts and harnesses after I had the running engine out of the car.
*Only thing I didn't change was the Engine temp sensor
I installed the good compression engine today and it doesn't start.
I have fuel to the rails
spark at the plugs
But it won't fire. Is there something to check that would keep the injectors from pulsing?
Thanks in advance for any possiblle solutions
Jeff
My guess is timing.
Pull the #1 plug and then rotate the crank until the timing mark lines up to the fan housing. Stick a plastic straw into the #1 cylinder to make sure you can feel the top of the piston. Remove the dizzy cap to make sure the rotor is pointing to TDC.
Is the replacement motor a 1.8? I can't recall the specifics, but the timing marks are different on the 1.7 for sure, and perhaps the 2.0. There is a tech article on Pelican that will explain this.
replacement is a 1.8
I djusted the valves while the engine was out so I think the timing is ok unless something else is off internally. and I don't know the history on the engine as it came with a parts car.
I will check TDC again to make sure
First I would check to see if your injectors are actually firing or not. Remove an injector from its holder and place it in a small jar. Crank the car to see if it squirts. If not, double check your connections at the resistor pack and dual relay. Make sure there are no loose/broken connections.
oil cap on?
dip stick in?
those off with cause vacuum leak and no start
FI Relay/connections? Resistor pack?
Trust me, fuel AT the rails means nothing...do you have fuel PRESSURE?
Check fuel lines in engine compartment. Did you hook up the supply side to the rail and line that runs along the trunkside of the engine to the return line? It's easy to get them confused because the wrong way looks like a cleaner install.
dual relay over by the battery fires the injectors
assuming you have fuel running out the injectors and spark, you should check timing.
does it try to start? backfires?
No firing at all, no back firing
trying to wrap my head around it being 180 out of time.
If #1 is at TDC and the rotor is poitning to the mark on the distributor housing for TDC on #1 and valves are both closed (play in both when i adjusted the valves)
Could it still be 180 out of time?
I will check the harness connections today
Injectors aren't pulsing
Am I correct in assuming that an incorrectly timed Distributor wouldn't cause this?
Wires to the relay look ok
Do you have a white wire from the FI harness connected to the coil on the negative side?
Check the direction of the fuel flow. If you accidentally get the pressure regulator on the wrong side of the flow you will get a no start.
Got it to start
I ran the white wire from injec. harness to neg on coil but I also reran the harness in the engine compartment. I am wondering if there is a broken wire somewhere in the harness.
Does anyone sell rebuilt L-jet harnesses?
can the plugs that go to the inijectors be updated to a newer style that is easier to remoce?
Read the L-jet troubleshooting guide here: http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/
It helped me every time I had troubles.
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