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Posted by: Lawrence Oct 21 2004, 03:39 PM

Well, today was the first time in quite a while I've been able to work on the Bee. It was put away last summer, not driven during the winter or while I was in Iraq.

Today, I installed new plugs, coil, colorful vacuum line set and a rebuilt MPS. //edit// Also squirted some oil in each cylinder. //

I flushed the old gas out by jumping the fuel pump relay, and filled the tank with 5 fresh gallons of gas.

It fired right up! It idles a bit high (~2800 rpm). No vacuum leaks. Unplugging the hose on the back of the MPS, and the idle drops to about 1000 rpm.

Any ideas?

-Rusty

Posted by: Bleyseng Oct 21 2004, 03:51 PM

Good to hear its running. Should just be that you hooked up a vacuum hose wrong.
Do a search for the pic of the 73 2.0l hose layout. I can't post it from here at work (dialup).

Geoff

Posted by: Howard Oct 21 2004, 04:10 PM

This one?

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Posted by: Lawrence Oct 21 2004, 04:19 PM

Okay.. some troubleshooting has shown that I'm pulling LOTS of air through the AAR.

The AAR is pulling lots of air from the air cleaner. When I pull the vacuum line and plug it, RPMs drop down to the 1200 range.

Is there a test for the AAR? I remember something about how they could be stuck open?

-Rusty

Posted by: Lawrence Oct 21 2004, 04:22 PM

This is basically what my layout looks like... except I only have one nipple on my throttle body (the one that has the blue hose isn't on my TB).

-Rusty

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Posted by: phantom914 Oct 21 2004, 04:27 PM

QUOTE(Lawrence @ Oct 21 2004, 02:19 PM)

Okay.. some troubleshooting has shown that I'm pulling LOTS of air through the AAR.

The AAR is pulling lots of air from the air cleaner. When I pull the vacuum line and plug it, RPMs drop down to the 1200 range.

Is there a test for the AAR? I remember something about how they could be stuck open?

-Rusty

Check the wire going to the AAR for voltage. That wire is to heat up an internal element in the AAR which should close the vavle within a few minutes after starting. If it has voltage and the AAR is still passing air after several minutes, it is bad.

Andrew

Posted by: Howard Oct 21 2004, 04:45 PM

Shot in the dark. Is vacuum hose (lowest gray one in your diagram) to decel valve ok? That's the only way my idle revs to up like that. Back hose in this pic.

Attached image(s)

Posted by: Bleyseng Oct 21 2004, 04:45 PM

Or after the car is running for 5 minutes the bottom of the AAR should be quite warm. If it is then you gots + power to it aaannd its stuck from rust. Shoot a liberal amount of PB Blaster into it and let it soak over night to free it. Not WD40!

Sooo, how does the Bee drive? Should go like a bat outtahell now.

Geoff

Posted by: Lawrence Oct 21 2004, 04:59 PM

That unit is sucking LOTS of air... so I suspect it might be stuck open as well as not connected. It's pretty obvious that the AAR didn't get as warm as other items in the engine compartment.

Looks like I need to check the wiring in the morning... and spray it down with PB Blaster if it turns out to be disconnected.

Thanks for all the good advice. I'm not going to drive it until I get this settled!

Time for dinner!

-Rusty

Posted by: Curvie Roadlover Oct 21 2004, 05:56 PM

You could just plug it closed at the hose. You only really need the AAR for really cold ( < 32 degrees ) starts. I heard another way you can check if it's stuck is to put it in a hot oven for a while. The valve should close from the heat regardless of whether or not the heating element in it is working.

Posted by: phantom914 Oct 21 2004, 10:58 PM

QUOTE(Curvie Roadlover @ Oct 21 2004, 03:56 PM)