I am replacing the rear main seal on my 74 2.0. I have a couple questions.
1st there are 3 shims on the crank that are loose. I know they are supposed to be as the flywheel holds them in place. My question is one of them is cracked. Would it be okay sandwiched between the other 2?
2nd the rear main seal I pulled I can see why it was leaking. Since I didn't put this one in. How do I put the new one in without causing the same problem? There are about 3 lines in the seal with the worst being in the picture. I didn't feel any burrs on the lip. I'd assume just put a little oil on the seal to help slide it in place. Any other tips appreciated
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Toss the cracked one. You should reset the end play while you're there anyway. I'll send you my installation tool and some spare shims if you want.
Don't re-use that shim.
Elring seals have been getting bad press recently. I'd recommend using Victor Reinz seals.
There are a few ways to check/set end play, you just need a solidly mounted datum device and a dial indicator to gauge back & forth movement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D51T5dU1HtY&feature=related ... It's easy, even a Caveman can do it ...
I've had some really bad luck with Elring rear seals. Use the Victor Reinz seal. Just my $0.02
Looks like Pelican's are Elring. Oh well we shall see how well it works. I can use the shims & tool Mark. Call you later
Thanks for all the suggestions too
Can do. I'll get them out to you tomorrow.
I would be hesitant to use any of them shims again, the shims are bearing surfaces. Certainly the shim(s) that were next to the torn one are damaged, no longer flat , or gouged. I'd replace all three. they got to be flat and smooth.
Try a cut a chamfer on the case to allow the new seal to slide in without catching on the sharp case edges. a nice 1/16 inch bevel makes the seals go in nice and easy with no tearing, use some oil on them too.
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