Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: tscrihfield Aug 5 2012, 04:19 PM

Okay I did a search on oils that people run and my search was less than helpful. I always get the same thing. Brad penn oil... I know that this is good oil and many run this but I would like to know what everyone runs.

So please state the engine your running and what oil you're running.

Thanks,
Thomas

Posted by: ConeDodger Aug 5 2012, 04:27 PM

In my 2432 Raby Motor, I run - you guessed it, Brad Penn 20W - 50 Racing Oil...

I do not Fuch around with this motor. It's worth more than the car cost new!

Posted by: billh1963 Aug 5 2012, 04:29 PM

2.0's and 1.7...Brad Penn

Posted by: GeorgeRud Aug 5 2012, 04:42 PM

Brad Penn or Raby's new oil are safe bets. I've also heard that Kendall GT is once again available, that's what our local Porsche guru is recommending.

Posted by: jsayre914 Aug 5 2012, 04:47 PM

2056 d-jet Brad Penn 20-50
Got a case from Chris (Tangerine)


Thanks Chris

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Aug 5 2012, 04:56 PM

MOBIL 1 10/50. (Ceramic lifters).

Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Aug 5 2012, 05:12 PM

2056/9550 cam. Brad Penn. Have a hot rod shop a mile away that carrys it

Posted by: Porschef Aug 5 2012, 05:19 PM

Likewise

Posted by: Java2570 Aug 5 2012, 05:35 PM

In my '74 2.0L I run Brad Penn 20w50 in hot months, 10w40 in colder weather.

Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 5 2012, 07:04 PM

I've run the Swepco oil with no issues, about the same price as BP (a local source for BP only just came available) but it's delivered to my door.

Posted by: Black22 Aug 5 2012, 07:28 PM

1911 w/ L-jet...Brad Penn 20/50

Posted by: bembry Aug 5 2012, 07:35 PM

2056 by McMark with dual webers--Bard Penn 20W-50

Posted by: 914itis Aug 5 2012, 07:44 PM

Stock 1.0 and 1.7 both brad penn

Posted by: michael7810 Aug 5 2012, 07:45 PM

BP 20-50 but just ordered a case of Joe Gibbs DT50 to see if the oil runs cooler.

Posted by: ww914 Aug 5 2012, 08:17 PM

BP in a McMark 2270. No comments yet. The engine is brand new.

Posted by: tscrihfield Aug 5 2012, 08:35 PM

WOW! Now I understand why all I would see is BP!

Okay,
Are the benefits due to the Zinc? What sources do you use to obtain the oil?

Thanks for everyone's input!


Thomas

Posted by: Rand Aug 5 2012, 08:55 PM

Zinc and phosphorus are the key ingredients. (Make sure it's the green stuff - BP has some other formulas that aren't right for our engines.)

I get mine at the local Summit Racing outlet.

FWIW I documented the results of my research here:
http://randbaldwin.com/?p=326

Posted by: monkeyboy Aug 6 2012, 08:39 AM

I have been using Lucas Hot Rod oil. 20-50 synthetic with high zinc and phosphorus.

I am due for an oil change so I will be trying the Gibbs DT-50.

Posted by: StratPlayer Aug 6 2012, 09:38 AM

Brad Penn 20 50

Posted by: Randal Aug 6 2012, 09:52 AM

Kendall with liquid titanium, GT-1

Been running this 30 weight oil since my 2414cc race motor was built. About 5 hours on the motor between autoxing and hill climbing.

Posted by: LotusJoe Aug 6 2012, 11:00 AM

Valvoline VR1 20-50 as recommended by Fat Performance here in Southern California.

Posted by: Drums66 Aug 6 2012, 11:55 AM

.....Motorcraft,synthetic blend(in the equipment van)
911 carrera( Mobil 1) Redline in the trans.

Posted by: injunmort Aug 6 2012, 12:07 PM

valvoline vr1 50wt in summer and 30wt in winter, same as my aircooled motorcycles.

Posted by: steuspeed Aug 6 2012, 12:38 PM

73 Stock 2.0 Brad Penn 20/50

Posted by: Bleyseng Aug 6 2012, 05:18 PM

Brad Penn 20/50 or 10/30 in a three cars.

Posted by: SLITS Aug 6 2012, 05:35 PM

2.7L 911S flat six .... Kendall GT1 with Liquid Titanium .... 6K miles

Same in the 2.0L fours I owned.

I do have a case of BP but never used it.

Posted by: Rand Aug 6 2012, 06:12 PM

I sneak into Slits' place and siphon out of the drain bin. I then repackage and sell as BP Extra Black. It is loaded with more than just zinc, but all the other special nutrients found in Porsche engines, plus liquid Titanium. Black gold I say. Since it is heavy on nutrients, I call it nSake oil... For greatness Sake. Paypal me for more info.

Posted by: t collins Aug 6 2012, 06:28 PM

1974 2056 w/dual Dells, Brad Penn 20/50

Posted by: PBC914 Aug 6 2012, 09:39 PM

Valvoline straight 40W pure dino oil. What do you think the Germans were using 40 years ago? My car has never run better and cooler in hotter temps.

Posted by: Rand Aug 7 2012, 12:35 AM

40 years ago oil had different ingredients. Look at the API rating. If your 40W has SM in the rating, that's bad. Things have changed quite a bit just in recent years.

No big deal to the newer cars - kind of like Ethanol is no big to new cars - but is definitely harder on our old beasts.

Just because it doesn't make your car run bad and hot, doesn't mean it's the best oil for your engine.

Posted by: Thestigz06 Aug 7 2012, 01:27 AM

Single weight is the way to go. Although i do have to say im a Castrol Man!

Castrol HD 40wt 1.7 with no real mods

Posted by: Rand Aug 7 2012, 02:42 AM

Single weight is the way to go?? Oof. Where do you live?

I'll give on some of the additives topic and how you may or may not prove it in all your glorious 200k+ engines.

But stating that single-weight is the only way to go is dumb. Beyond dumb. I used to swear by straight 30W. Then I realized I wasn't the only person on this side of the planet. There's the rest of the world, dumbasses. Break out of your bubble...

Please at least consider your seasons and climates. Would you really run 40 in sub zero winter temps?

But more to the point since we have an expert on hand....


Please explain your understanding of multi-viscosity oils and their additives over time. And please include your scientific results regarding your observations of the importance of zinc and phosphorus as they pertain to the longevity of the type IV engine.

Posted by: Van914 Aug 7 2012, 04:48 AM

Thomas call me
Van

Posted by: Thoward914 Aug 7 2012, 04:54 AM

74 914 2.0L Brad Penn 20/50

85 911 3.2L Brad Penn 20/50

I pick it up at Zim's, If you buy two cases you get a discount.

Posted by: injunmort Aug 7 2012, 08:05 AM

valvoline vr still has the mineral pack/zinc etc in it according to their website. it is locally available and i think a little less expensive than bp. i have used single weight oils in my air cooled engines since my teens and never had any problems. that being said, i religiously change oil in air cooled much more frequently than in other vehicles. every 1000 miles in the motorcycles and every 2000 miles in the 914, or every riding/ driving season if the mileage thresholds are not achieved.

Posted by: Drums66 Aug 7 2012, 09:16 AM

....I agree.....in these cars(914,vw)even early 911

Posted by: mrbubblehead Aug 7 2012, 09:30 AM

amsoil z-rod 30wt.

Posted by: Scott S Aug 7 2012, 11:40 AM

...


Attached image(s)

Posted by: matthepcat Aug 7 2012, 01:44 PM

1975 5.7L push-rod V8. The cheapest sh*t I can find.

Posted by: euro911 Aug 7 2012, 02:32 PM

Brad Penn 20/50 in the newly built 2056.

Castrol 20/50 in the wife's 1.7 since we bought it in 2007. We might change to BP after the rebuild

Castrol 20/50 in the 911s and 912s ... same for the Harleys and my '96 Tacoma.

Posted by: Rand Aug 8 2012, 07:03 PM

Stuck in the past? It pays to stay educated because things change. You still use transistors in our ipod? Don't just spew history, keep learning!

Posted by: tscrihfield Aug 8 2012, 08:16 PM

Wow... I have received more response on this than I expected. I am a castrol guy simply because I know what their research consists of and agree with it. However, it does not mean it is the best oil for this car. I have also heard arguments about Pennsylvania crude and the benefits from that. Anyway, thank you all for the comments keep them coming.

Thomas

Are there other good oils that contain the zinc and other pertanent additives?

Posted by: smj Aug 8 2012, 09:00 PM

But... but... Castrol is Liquid Engineering®! It must be the best choice!!

I have a jug of Castrol in the -6 now, because I needed to put something in it when we got it running again. Now that I'm past 750 miles I need to figure out what the next fill is. So Mark thanks for the vote for Castrol in a six banger. I had assumed Brad Penn would be a good choice, but maybe my 911SC lump is new enough to not require the extra zinc and phosphorus...

Posted by: brant Aug 9 2012, 12:51 AM

it has nothing to do with the newness of the rebuild..
its not like the old days with lead where you could rebuild a motor and used seats made to run without lead...


its about the forces and design of the cam shaft and lifters....

if you have roller rockers and hydraulic lifters like a modern motor then the forces on your cam lobes are lessened and you will be fine...

however if you have an chevy 350 (nearly all V8's over 5-10 years old)
or any 911 air cooled 6 cylinder
or any type 4 motor....
then your cam shafts are subject to enough force that you need the zinc and phosphorus to help them cushion the rockers running on the cams

without it you can trash a set of cam shafts in only a thousand or few thousand miles.... and nothing will bring those lobes back except another rebuild.

break in is probably the absolute most important time to protect those cam lobes with the proper oil since they need the heat cycle to help them begin their lives......

Posted by: TurbOH Brad Aug 9 2012, 07:14 AM

Every single aircooled I have ever run has been on Brad Penn 20W-50

Posted by: dlestep Aug 9 2012, 07:45 AM

Did someone say "HOT" in Minny Soda ?
Our winters are hotter than your summers, anyone's engine would be cooler.

Posted by: Drums66 Aug 9 2012, 04:15 PM

......I was in mlnl soda once(duluth) so cold me & me 914 almost
burned up!!

....GO DINO....

Posted by: smj Aug 10 2012, 03:21 AM

Appreciate the info, and realize comments may not be directed at me per se. Importance of using correct oil from first fill forward noted.

But in my case, I said "running again." Mine had sat a couple years, but now it's running again - no rebuild. It was smoking a lot for various reasons, but after some miles and Tom Amon's last visit I just get a little smoke on startup and that's it.

Either way, eager to put the right oil and a new Mahle filter in there Real Soon Now...

Posted by: Thestigz06 Aug 10 2012, 11:56 AM

In regards to where i live you can refrence the space right under my avatar.

Prehaps saying its the ONLY way to go may have been somewhat daft being that there is different applications for different use of our cars, however you do have to account for the fact that these motors were designed to run on single weight. And the Germans build quality on the majority of their cars isn't quite what one would call sub-par. They may have had good idea or two.

I live in southern california. We have winter weather a total of maybe 2 weeks out of the whole year. The rest of the time its Sunny skys and swim shorts.

Ive talked to many motor builders here in southern california who swear by single weight and advised me to do my own research. Now keep in mind i am in NO WAY saying Castrol HD or any single weight would be the best but it keeps my temps down in my car better then multi-weights i have tried and what she was originally designed to run on.

Some (Lengthy)reading material for you sir:
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=30483

Your beloved Brad Penn didn't seem to do too well.

Oh and calm down we all have our own opinions based off what we have heard, seen, experienced, etc. We're all friends here so there's no sense in trolling on anyone who doesn't agree with you.

Posted by: cgnj Aug 10 2012, 12:50 PM

Hi,

I'm so tired of this arguement, I have to chime in. I have no dog in this fight, only my own experiences. Not one of you has a Phd in chemistry and works as a formulation scientist for an oil company. You all cite studies, but who was the researcher and what was thier curriculum vitæ like?

My car bud is a formlations scientist for a major oil company. We met about 15 years ago while our sons played Little League (they were the worst two players on the team). He remarked to me at one of the games that he didn't realize that I was an "Aircooled Head" and told me that he had a 914 in his barn (it's a 72).

Anyway this was about the time that I started building my 2270 and the lifter failure and cam failure issues first surfaced in the late 90's. I spent over 1k$ over the cost of off the shelf Webcam products for Schbecks and shipping and machining to avoid a lifter/cam failer on my 2270 build.

One night at the lake, we talked about this issue in depth. His scientific conclusions and my experience? No scientfic reason not to run syth/engineered oil in an air cooled motor. My experiece - I spin my 2270 till the pill cuts in (7.5k). Ran syth/engineered oil from day one. Still on the road baby.

Posted by: euro911 Aug 10 2012, 01:16 PM

You may be correct in stating that none of us who has posted here has a PhD in chemistry, but that's not the point.

For those of us who aren't PhDs (apparently, including yourself), we will have to rely on the information provided by the product's manufacturers as to the benefits of their composition, or from end users' experiences, just as you have provided.

I do have a 'dog in the fight' ... I want my new engine to run for many miles

Posted by: turk22 Aug 10 2012, 01:16 PM

this is very timely topic since I just got my car. The PO did an oil change using 20w50 Castrol.

I'll be looking at my options going forward.

Turk

Posted by: mankowski Aug 11 2012, 11:09 PM

Brad Penn 10-30 in my 1.7 w/232K

Posted by: Drums66 Aug 12 2012, 04:03 PM

.....Back in the day, Valvoline was my main DINO(good chit)
don't know if they changed formula(recipe)??

Posted by: monkeyboy Aug 13 2012, 12:03 PM

Everything with a API certification has changed their formulations. They had to due to the new requirements. I haven't seen an API rated oil that met the standards we need. Even the diesel oils scare me.

I just did an oil change this weekend. Swapped in some Joe Gibbs Aircooled oil. Nothing scientific yet, but I did note right away that it smelled like the oils of the past. That can't be a bad thing.

Posted by: brant Aug 13 2012, 01:14 PM

Diesel oils are also changed and no longer good


Carlos,
this isn't a synthetic versus dino debate
this is about the anti shock properties of the additives that used to cusion the contact points of the cam and lifters....


All of the oils with API certification (dino and synthetic) have had these additives removed now because over a 100,000 life span these additives damage catalytic converters.

so to improve the life of emissions equiptment the requirements have changed to be certified.

This changed happened about 7 years ago
your cam/lifter failure probably happened on the old and good stuff
now modern oils will not protect the metal to metal contact of flat tappet engines

I have seen a recent lifter wore through.. yes with a hole wore through
more commonly you will see cam lobes wore down
ask the chevy v8 guys... heck ask any true performance car guy from any marquee....

I agreee with the above
all of the API certified oils with modern certification are missing the correct additives.

Posted by: monkeyboy Aug 13 2012, 03:20 PM

We had a cam go flat in my dad's Ford... Directly attributed to oil. It now runs hot rod oil, and a roller cam and lifters. You can't be too sure.

Posted by: Brodie Aug 13 2012, 07:42 PM

I've been reading this thread with interest, and I thought that I would email Castrol and see what they recommended for air cooled engines. This is their response when I asked about what oil I should put in my 82 911 SC.


This ticket has been updated by IC - Castrol Representative



Thank you for contacting Castrol North America.

Castrol always recommends following the guidelines of the original engine manufacturer for the recommended grade and API specific to your application. This information can be found in the vehicles owner's manual or by contacting the manufacturer directly.

We do not have oil recommendations based on a specific type of engine. We have specific recommendations based on year, make and model of a vehicle. According to Castrol's lubrication guide recommended for the 1982 Porche 911 is the following:

For Mineral based oil:
Above 14F: 20W-50
Above 5F: 15W-40, 15W-50
-4 to 95F: 10W-40, 10W-50
-13 to 68F: 10W-30
-22 to 32F: 5W-30
Below 14F: 5W-20

Synthetic Based Oils:
32 to 105F: 10W-30. 10W40, 10w-50
All temperatures: 5W-30, 5W-40, 5W-50

Thank you for contacting Castrol.

Castrol Consumer Relations




I imagine that they don't want to stick their necks out too far, and that is why they have made the disclaimer for reading your manual. I would like to know from an oil engineer what have they done in modern oils to replace the zinc and other materials that made the old stuff "good" for air cooled engines. I'll see if I can get a response. Wish me luck!

Posted by: Rand Aug 13 2012, 08:25 PM

Every now and then I get a little strong with my words when I get fired up about some posts that have bad information. I apologize for the way I came across. I was actually more calm than it sounded - I probably just had a couple beers too many and lost my online tact, forgot the smileys, etc. But it wasn't trolling. And I don't argue just because someone doesn't agree with me.

Hey, who knows, many of us won't put enough miles on our 914s to even notice any potential difference. Run Wesson oil if you want.

The points I do want to be clear on though:
1. Today's dino oil ain't the same as it was when they printed the owners manual. Maybe it's good enough. For some it isn't.
2. One should not believe a blanket statement like straight 40W is the only way to go for everyone in every climate.



Hey Thestigz06: Thanks for your service.

Posted by: Drums66 Aug 13 2012, 09:09 PM

[quote name='Rand' date='Aug 13 2012, 07:25 PM' post='1723473']
[quote name='Thestigz06' post='1721836' date='Aug 10 2012, 10:56 AM']
Oh and calm down we all have our own opinions based off what we have heard, seen, experienced, etc. We're all friends here so there's no sense in trolling on anyone who doesn't agree with you.
[/quote]

......Hope to see you at 1 of our south Cali gatherings, so I can thank you
personally for your service sir!(Thestigz06)

Hey Thestigz06: Thanks for your service.

Posted by: RickS Aug 13 2012, 10:26 PM

Brad Penn or Mobil 1 are my oils of choice

Posted by: Thestigz06 Aug 13 2012, 11:14 PM

Its all good brother, i get the same way at times as well. Ive got thick skin and just enjoy a good debate every now and then. I dont want to and make a bigger issue then it is, just all in good fun!

Now back on topic:
Granted i did not account for the quality of oil today and I 100% agree that maybe folks in different climates have had better luck with different weights. My impression was that colder climates pulled their cars out as summer toys. I have hotrod friends in WI that refuse to take their toys out only in spring/summer time to avoid water and salt on the roads. I know it gets hot there but this was more of a statement that i seem to of pulled out of my !

Much appreciated man! But you'll notice "aspiring". Plenty of paperwork still, but keep a lookout, il be posting some things in the sandbox with my progress before too long!

Posted by: stugray Aug 16 2014, 01:47 PM

I just read an interesting tech article on oil testing and the results.

This is a good read and explains some of the "myths" about modern engine oils and their use in flat tappet motors (reader beware - I have not done any fact checking about these claims)

Does anyone know much about 540Rat?
He claims to have no affiliation with any oil (or oil additive) manufacturer, but he sure seems to like "Oil Extreme" additive.

http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

I tend to believe Jake (if for no other reason than sheer numbers of engines that he has run) and use Brad Penn Racing oil.
But if you believe what 540rat is explaining, then castol GTX with the "oil extreme" additive is even better.

Posted by: campbellcj Aug 16 2014, 04:43 PM

I am on Brad Penn 20W-50 now. Prior engine was on Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. The switch was mainly due to a change in mechanics vs. a specific decision.

Posted by: struckn Aug 16 2014, 06:13 PM

Translog GT put SWEPCO 15W40 in mine after an Engine rebuild and I continue to use it. Tony use Brad Pen for the break in Oil, first 500 miles, replacing it with the SWEPCO.

Posted by: flylarry Aug 16 2014, 07:16 PM

Here's what I've been using!

Posted by: 914bub Aug 16 2014, 07:54 PM

Interesting how many people are running "Penn's oil", Sorry couldn't help myself.

On a serious note. I know a lot of people have noted that oil technology has changed a lot, even in recent years. I took a class at De Anza auto tech,(Circa 1987),taught by Dema Elgin,of Elgin cams fame. He told us DO NOT run Castrol GTX as it aerates far too much, and certainly do not run it in a turbo engine. He has a pretty impressive cam portfolio including Porsche so I've stuck with that advice.FWIW

Posted by: earossi Aug 16 2014, 08:02 PM

There are a lot of good oils out there. Speaking in very general terms, the promise of synthetics when they were introduced was that their additive packages were superior to those in dino oil, so you could run more miles on an oil change. So, oil changes could be postponed for 10k miles or more, without seeing major loss of protection from the additives.

That being said, most of us who own these older cars don't put a lot of miles on a car in a year, and we usually change our oil once a year or at a predetermined mileage of about 3000 miles (plus or minus). So, for those of us that adhere to that type of schedule, a synthetic is not necessarily superior to a dino oil.

What DOES matter, for cars that use higher lift cams and rocker cam followers, is the amount of ZDDP in the formulation, whether it be dino or a syn oil. The ZDDP forces oil to remain on the cam lobes longer and provides an acceptable degree of lubricity. So, ZDDP is important. And, unfortunately, approximately 10 years ago, the US EPA and IDOT imposed new regs requiring that platinum catalytic converters must have a life double what had been the case previously. I don't remember the exact mileage, but cats were regulated to have a life of approximately 80K miles. When the Feds essentially doubled that requirement, the oil formulators found that zinc in the ZDDP would kill the platinum catalyst sooner than the regs permitted. So, to meet the new regs, oil formulators cut the ZDDP levels essentially in half on their oils.

Over the last 5-6 years, there has been an step change in the amount of valve train failures in high performance engines due to lubrication related issues, including Porsches.

Valvetrain design and metallurgies have been altered by the engine designers to compensate for the lack of ZDDP in oils. So, new engines should be OK. But, how about all the millions of engines out there that were designed to use high levels of ZDDP? We are essentially screwed.

But, there is a "work around". The reduced ZDDP level oils are those for road usage ONLY. So, if you find an oil that is for "off road usage", more than likely it has the old elevated levels of ZDDP. So the oils will be branded as "for off road use only" or as "racing oils", which means they are intended to be used on a track, where catalytic convertors are currently not required.

If you use 20W50, you can get a high ZDDP level synthetic in Mobil 1 formulated for motor cycles. Since current laws do not require cat convertors on motor cycles, oils formulated for them still have the proper level of ZDDP.

In addition to Brad Penn, racing and off road usage oils made by Motul, Joe Gibbs, and Mobil 1 are all good oils.

And, that is the short story!

Posted by: partwerks Aug 16 2014, 09:20 PM

Whatever synthetic is on sale. I've only used synthetic in the Jetta, since break in oil, and 168,000 and still going strong.................

Posted by: stugray Aug 16 2014, 09:53 PM

The link above explained in excruciating detail that the author does not believe as much in the ZDDP requirements.
I'll leave that up the reader to decide for themselves.
On that thread is his list of top ~133 oils based almost entirely on his “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load” which gets a rating in PSI.

Of those 133, I cut a couple that are discussed on these forums for use in type IVs.
Lucas, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline VR1, and Brad Penn, are the most discussed.
Below is the ranking in the author's tests, in cluding the PSI rating, the relevant chem comp (Zinc, Phos, Moly, TBN), and any notes.
I was also focused on racing oils and not so much daily drivers.

I found it interesting that based on just these #s (not saying I believe them) that the Valvoline VR1 is almost identical to Brad Penn, but has a higher rating by the author.

Obviously LOTS more info if you read the link above.

Ranked 8 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phosphorus = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
calcium = 2,929 ppm
TBN = 9.0
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

Ranked 13 5W30 Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 Performance Motor Oil, synthetic = 104,487 psi
The bottle says it is formulated specifically for high output GM LS engines, and that no ZDDP or additives required. This is by far, the best performing Joe Gibbs oil I’ve ever tested. It is at the very top of the OUTSTANDING wear protection category, and fell just short of the INCREDIBLE wear protection category.
zinc = 1610 ppm
phosphorus = 1496 ppm
moly = 0 ppm
calcium = 3515 ppm
TBN = 8.8
This oil contains sufficient amounts of the components required (detergent, acid neutralizer, etc) for normal change intervals in street driven vehicles. But, it has way too much zinc/phos for use in cat equipped vehicles. However, it is well suited for Race Cars, Street Hotrods and Classic cars.

Ranked 16 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phosphorus = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm
calcium = 2,707 ppm
TBN = 7.6

Ranked 100 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 semi-synthetic = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

Posted by: budk Aug 17 2014, 06:48 AM

NAPA

Posted by: barefoot Aug 17 2014, 07:47 AM

Here's a link from Covette forums (sorry guys) that seems very well done on oil rankings.
Barefoot
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/3072456-motor-oil-wear-test-and-lab-test-data.html

Here's another:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Posted by: mepstein Aug 17 2014, 08:23 AM

BP - shipped to my door for free when I buy on Amazon

Posted by: brant Aug 17 2014, 08:55 AM

Royal purple still....

Posted by: johnhora Aug 17 2014, 09:01 AM

Don't you just love discussions on this subject...

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/producthighlightsandneweditions/oil/

http://rennlist.com/forums/964-forum/805591-porsche-classic-motor-oil.html

Posted by: saigon71 Aug 17 2014, 09:46 AM

Stock 2.0 D-Jet. I run Quaker State Defy 10w-30, a synthetic blend. It has the required zinc and is available at Wal-Mart for about $17 per 5 quart jug. In time, I hope they develop a 20w-50 formula, or at least 10w-40.

Posted by: Porschef Aug 17 2014, 09:58 AM

For the last year I've been using the VR-1, the car seems to like it.

Why? Because I received two cases from a friend who put a 6 in his car, and is now running Mobil-1. That, and I'm cheap....

Posted by: Mark Henry Aug 17 2014, 10:10 AM

I've been running Delo 400 15w40 diesel oil all summer with no issue, quite cheap as well. This is in my T4 bug engine....well north of $10K to build.

Delo is good enough for Henry at Supertec, I doubt he builds a single engine under $25K.

Posted by: stugray Aug 17 2014, 11:35 AM

Here is the list with the oils mentioned above added: Royal purple (not sure which one, there are many in the list), Delo 400 diesel, & quaker Defy.


Ranked 8 10W30 Lucas Racing Only synthetic = 106,505 psi
zinc = 2642 ppm
phosphorus = 3489 ppm
moly = 1764 ppm
calcium = 2,929 ppm
TBN = 9.0
NOTE: This oil is suitable for short term racing use only, and is not suitable for street use.

Ranked 13 5W30 Joe Gibbs Driven LS30 Performance Motor Oil, synthetic = 104,487 psi
The bottle says it is formulated specifically for high output GM LS engines, and that no ZDDP or additives required. This is by far, the best performing Joe Gibbs oil I’ve ever tested. It is at the very top of the OUTSTANDING wear protection category, and fell just short of the INCREDIBLE wear protection category.
zinc = 1610 ppm
phosphorus = 1496 ppm
moly = 0 ppm
calcium = 3515 ppm
TBN = 8.8
This oil contains sufficient amounts of the components required (detergent, acid neutralizer, etc) for normal change intervals in street driven vehicles. But, it has way too much zinc/phos for use in cat equipped vehicles. However, it is well suited for Race Cars, Street Hotrods and Classic cars.

Ranked 16 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi
zinc = 1472 ppm
phosphorus = 1544 ppm
moly = 3 ppm
calcium = 2,707 ppm
TBN = 7.6

Ranked 51 10W30 Quaker State Defy, API SL semi-synthetic = 90,226 psi
zinc = 1221 ppm
phos = 955 ppm
moly = 99 ppm

Ranked 65 20W50 Royal Purple API SN synthetic = 83,487 psi
zinc = 588 ppm
phos = 697 ppm
moly = 0 ppm

Ranked 80. 15W40 ROYAL PURPLE Diesel Oil synthetic, API CJ-4 /SM, CI-4 PLUS, CH-4, CI-4 = 76,997 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD

Ranked 87. 5W30 Royal Purple XPR (Extreme Performance Racing) synthetic = 74,860 psi
zinc = 1421 ppm
phos = 1338 ppm
moly = 204 ppm

Ranked 92 15W40 CHEVRON DELO 400LE Diesel Oil, conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM, = 73,520 psi
zinc = 1519 ppm
phos = 1139 ppm
moly = 80 ppm

Ranked 100 10W30 Brad Penn, Penn Grade 1 semi-synthetic = 71,206 psi
zinc = 1557 ppm
phos = 1651 ppm
moly = 3 ppm

114. 10W30 Royal Purple HPS (High Performance Street) synthetic = 66,211 psi
zinc = 1774 ppm
phos = 1347 ppm
moly = 189 ppm

Posted by: tumamilhem Aug 17 2014, 08:49 PM

Lebanese olive oil. Extra virgin. Cold pressed. Also excellent on bread and kibbie nayyi.