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Posted by: newdeal2 Oct 31 2004, 11:23 AM

I think Jake is off on a cruise so does anyone happen to know the correct valve clearances for his WebCam for the stock 2 Liter fuel injected?

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 31 2004, 11:29 AM

You might check the Webcam site and find out there. If it's a mild cam, I don't know why it would be any different than normal. Joseph 222 has a mild Isky cam, and was advised here to use the stock clearences. It works!

However, I would never speak for Jake, so WTF do I know?

Posted by: newdeal2 Oct 31 2004, 11:40 AM

I agree and didn't think a change from stock applied but Jake mentions a change on his 2 liter rebuild video so.....

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2004, 01:34 PM

What kind of push rods to you have?

Posted by: newdeal2 Oct 31 2004, 02:25 PM

Solid lifters and hollow [ween] push rods

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2004, 03:02 PM

Aluminum or Steel?

Aluminum = stock gap
steel (chomoly) = zero gap

Posted by: Aaron Cox Oct 31 2004, 03:08 PM

you set cromoly pushrods to zero lash?

Posted by: Jake Raby Oct 31 2004, 03:22 PM

Hey....
Yes I am away on vacaton using a web tv rig in my hotel room.My cam doesn't alter valve settings unless it is used with steel pushrods. Use the settings that MarkD posted. No more internet acess for week aftr today-see ya!

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 31 2004, 03:47 PM

If you have steel pushrods, they should still spin when you set them at zero lash.

Posted by: newdeal2 Oct 31 2004, 06:32 PM

I have aluminum...and thanks to Jake for taking a moment to help

So group, since I don't always trust the Haynes manual what is the correct stock 2 liter FI clearances?

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2004, 06:40 PM

The "safe" setting is .008 for the exhaust and .006 for the intake.
People often set them at .006 - .004. Depends on your penchant for danger.

ChroMoly push rods get set to zero lash because the heat expansion characteristics are different. The steel expands less, so as your engine gets wider, the pushrods stay the same and therefore your gap increases. ChroMoly will be tight at startup and get more and more loose as it heats up.

Aluminum pushrods expand more than the engine (cylinders are iron) and so you set the gap wide and it gets smaller as the engine heats up.

If you could make an engine and pushrod combo that expanded at EXACTLY the same rate, you could set the lash at zero and it would stay at zero regardless of temperature. Ideal, but nearly impossible. I suppose getting Nickies and using AL pushrods would be a lot closer than stock.

Posted by: BGman Oct 31 2004, 06:57 PM

zero lash?
So you loosen the nuts, close them by hand until they just touch and then re-tighten the locking nuts?
That seems much simpler than messing with feeler guages.

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2004, 07:02 PM

Something like that. But try it next time your adjusting your valve (don't leave it at zero, just try it). Deciding when they "just touch" isn't as easy as it sounds.

Posted by: Aaron Cox Oct 31 2004, 07:03 PM

anyone try the zero lash when hot adjustment? ive heard that mentioned here. sounds painful

Posted by: vsg914 Oct 31 2004, 07:09 PM

I'm not putting my wrist on hot heat exchangers, nor my fingers on hot rockers.

Posted by: McMark Oct 31 2004, 07:10 PM

I tried it. Got me some Mechanix Wear Heat Sleeves. It's hot, it's hard, it's hurts. It didn't make a difference. I would only recommend it to a racer who's on the bleeding edge of their class limit. It's good for another 0.1 HP.

On the other hand, you might run it hot ( 1 hour drive ) and then check the clearances. If you set them all at 0.008 and check them hot any they're all 0.003 out you can reduce your gap. But remember that if you eliminate your gap when hot, if you car overheats (more than normal) your pushrods will keep expanding and will start leaving your valves open all the time = broken valves = dead engine.