Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 8 2012, 05:00 PM

Hello. New here,so here goos.
Back in 2007 started to put the parts and chassie together. I have 3 chassis to work from,2 from Texas and one from Ca. The Texas car seems to be better/less rust but it was hit in the driver front and repaired. Will look into that when I get is up on Rotisserie. Will start building the Rotisserie next.

She will be powered by a JDM Sti using a adapter to the 914 transaxle. Didn't want to go to the Subaru,to much work.

When I get it up on the Rotisserie is this a good time to have blasted clean/paint free?

Here are some photos . Any input is welcome!
Randy

Posted by: porbmw Nov 8 2012, 05:05 PM

Keep us posted, and inspired
Paul

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 8 2012, 05:19 PM

Thanks Paul!

Also need in put about using the body kit from Sheridan Motorsports . Things like mounting the panels? Thinking about the wide body????? With the little 2.0 Turbo maybe the body is to wide? Will have around 300HP+-? Or should I go with the steel ?

Posted by: Ductech Nov 8 2012, 06:02 PM

Have you driven a 914 with a side shifter? They are nothing to write home about. I wish I would have gone suby transaxle. My next one will!

Posted by: StratPlayer Nov 8 2012, 06:06 PM

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 8 2012, 06:06 PM

Well I drove 140+ miles a day for 3 years with my 73. But I know what you are getting at. They are not a racing trans but I think it would be ok for a old racer? LOL

Posted by: IM101 Nov 8 2012, 07:04 PM

Always happy to see new subaru 914's, which JDM STI are you thinking? You may want to talk to Britian Smith, as he went Version 8 (or 7, either way RIDICULOUSLY fast)

Ian

Posted by: bulitt Nov 8 2012, 07:09 PM

What was in it prior? V8?

Posted by: kg6dxn Nov 8 2012, 07:53 PM

;

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 8 2012, 09:39 PM

Thanks All!

The motor is from a 1994 Sti. She is close to a 555, Like 275 HP stock.
Here is the chassis tag.

Posted by: Andyrew Nov 8 2012, 10:03 PM

The wide body is to wide for a street car. There is no way you'll find tires to fit that body in street rubber anywhere less than 2k a pop. The narrow body can fit 11" wide rims... Hell my "little" flares fit 10's in the back with 285's.

Edit: When I say wide vs narrow I am referring to Sheridan's body kits...

Good lookin project

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 8 2012, 10:11 PM

Andyrew that was what I was thinking! And the glass may not work well with the people on the city streets? Maybe this is the way to go??

Posted by: Andyrew Nov 8 2012, 10:37 PM

The GT look is the most preferred.

I have fiberglass fenders front/rear (Molded in). Daily drove for a year no issues. Just mount them well and dont stand on them.

Posted by: ruby914 Nov 9 2012, 01:57 AM

"powered by a JDM Sti using a adapter to the 914 transaxle. Didn't want to go to the Subaru,to much work."

I have the WRX and adapter. It shifts ok. The car is fast, then I shift, it is fast again, shift, fast again, ...
We need a logger test of a suby and 901 to see the time between shifts
Then there is first gear that is not much use even before you break it.
Just saying, it is my missing link.

STI, cool!

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 9 2012, 11:39 PM

So ,I have been looking at a lot of build photos. In this photo the center tunnel has been removed. What about making it taller to take the water lines?

Posted by: Porcharu Nov 10 2012, 12:06 AM

Never thought about removing the tunnel. The Subaru trans is TOTALLY worth the little bit of extra work. With the modern trans you can just drive the car without the constant f*(*cking with the 914 trans - ie just drop into 1st gear and go.

Posted by: kg6dxn Nov 10 2012, 12:15 AM

My first V8 car had water lines in the tunnel. They transmit a lot of heat into the cabin. You will have to insulate the lines in the tunnel. My car now runs lines under the car. Never had a problem.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 10 2012, 11:18 PM

"Porcharu" Do you still sell the adapter flanges ?

After reading your page I may need to think about this.
Randy

Posted by: Dr Evil Nov 10 2012, 11:31 PM

Wow, all of the support has been removed. No cross and no center tunnel. Looks nice, but how strong is this?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 18 2012, 03:01 PM

Welded up the ends for the mount.


53 " off the ground and 42" to the leg.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 20 2012, 05:00 PM

So I got the motor a trans out of storage. I am think of going air to water to air for the innercooler. I have one of a JDM,its in the photo. Think it is on a 220 HP motor.????








The exhaust was built,maybe 5 years ago. My bad! But I'm back at now!

Posted by: 904svo Nov 20 2012, 05:19 PM

When I put a Subaru 2007 wrx engine in my kit car I ran into the same problem.
I installed a 7" fan which pulls the air through the cooler and exhaust the air to the transmission area, the fan is control by the VSS sensor, when it pulses it turns on the fan. Here are some pictures of it.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 20 2012, 10:45 PM

Thanks 904! Think I will stay with water.
Up front I have lots of room for a heat exchanger for the intercooler.

Been working out the Rad. for the motor and will just ad a Rad. for the exchanger. Thinking a 24" by 12" by 1" would do the job?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 20 2012, 10:54 PM

Some one was asking,some time back what the FWD trans looked like. Here is a photo of the 914 and the FWD Subaru tran's. Is that a word? LOL

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 24 2012, 04:46 PM

Here is a link to the chassis cleaning/Soda blasting.



http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=198596

Posted by: badmiata Nov 24 2012, 06:43 PM

Cant wait to see your progress. Ive been in DBCoopers car and it was awesome. He is using both the engine and a wrx trans converted to fwd. I think thats the best. He also went with air to water. I have been considering doing the same. How will you vent for the radiator?

Posted by: 3d914 Nov 24 2012, 07:00 PM

Randy,

Looks like a nice setup.

Have you checked the the dimensions on 914 body? You might want to check that they're close before investing lotta time in the body work. I have the paper copies showing where to measure and proper dimensions - could scan them to PDF and send you. I'm sure someone has posted them on this site though.

Keep the pics coming.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 24 2012, 07:55 PM

You must be kidding? With all the welding I have see on this site,what's a little twist? LOL And if it needs it will just put it on the frame machine and pull the Sh&% out of it.

Thanks for the offer on the scan! Think I'm good.

Don't know about the venting? Was thinking about something like this.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 02:11 PM

I am moving back over here with rust repair of my project.

As you can see I'm back at it. Photos are the only 2 areas on the floor that will nee work. I'm thinking a small welded in panel ? Ideas from what you guys have done ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 03:12 PM

From the bottom.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 06:10 PM

A Little more cleaning.





Looks like I will have some work to do in the Hell Hole ! But not as bad as most have had to deal with.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 06:12 PM

With me building a water cooled 914 should I pull the air skirt mounts ?

Posted by: Mike Bellis Jan 26 2015, 08:01 PM

Depends on how far you're willing to go...

I removed most of the engine shelf and made other modifications. There's no going back now but I was not the first one to cut into the car.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 08:04 PM

And what about the battery tray ? Not sure their is a better place for it but I figured I would ask.

Posted by: Mike Bellis Jan 26 2015, 08:15 PM

Mine is in the front near the radiator. I have a cut off switch on the drivers cowl/scuttle.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 09:30 PM

What about the balance of the car ? With moving the battery that far forward is their a down side ?

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 26 2015, 09:40 PM

You're taking weight away from a higher center of gravity point in the rear to a very low COG point just over the front axle. The new engine weighs more so in theory you should be better sorted this way. Should help even out the whole weight distribution thing and still keep the weight close to the center of the car which helps your handling. Would be interesting to see some others battery boxes and ideas tho...
Has anyone gone with a gel-cel inside the passenger compartment? Is it even recommended?

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 26 2015, 11:09 PM

You've already added fans, water and a radiator to the front so I'd keep that batt in the engine compartment. Scales will say it all.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 26 2015, 11:57 PM

I will need to find out what the Subaru starter needs in the way of a battery. Maybe I could push it more down into the "hell hole" ?

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 27 2015, 01:11 AM

But all that is AHEAD of the front axle- keeping or adding weight on top or just behind the front axle could help the balance...
Anyone ever measured the weight of a Suby conversion at all 4 corners?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 27 2015, 10:58 PM

So this is my IDEA list.

Camber & caster weld-in plates?
Coilover shocks,F & R.
Roll Cage (welded in)
Chassis reinforcements.
GT Steel fender flairs.
Vintage Racing seat ( GT )
Front Welded in swaybar reinforcement.
Floor repair (as needed )
Replace jack points.
Right Hell Hole wall repair.
Firewall to trailing arm mount rod.
Cut out air-cooled motor flange.
Windshield post reinforcement. (GT )
GT front hood pins and plates.
4 lug to 5 lug swap.
Racing tow points F & R .
Through hood fuel fill. ( GT Racing ) ?
Repair jack points.
Bigger brakes F & R ?
Cab heater.
Cap A/C .
Turbo steering Kit.
Outside Master battery switch.
Some seam welding.
7" and 8" Fluk's.
JDM EJ20 T.
Megasquirt ECM and harness.
Subaru to Kennedy to 901 trans stuff.
ColdWater mount.

Well its a start. Now I will try to put them into some kind of to do order . Ideas about what to do first ? I'm thinking its the floor,jack points,hello hole ? Kinda work out from their.

Randy

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 28 2015, 12:52 AM

Strip it first of all that's being replaced and fix your metal bits. Then move to the suspension. Get a Subaru trans and dump the heavy, clunky 901 for something that shifts like buttah... Reference Cpt.Tripps build- he's done alot of what you have in mind and it'll save you headaches.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 28 2015, 01:34 PM

Thanks for the link to Cpt.Tripps build . I was doing fine up to reading about the brake up . Sorry things like that happen. Hope he is doing alright . It is a very cool build . It will help with my build big time. Thanks Cpt.Tripps !
Randy

Posted by: CptTripps Jan 28 2015, 01:41 PM

PLEASE ask me questions if you have them! I've done a lot of cool shit, and I'm still finding myself stuck. It's not as easy as you'd think.

Right now I'm wrestling with the intercooler and how I'd intended to set it up. Getting myself motivated to get in the damn garage and finish the thing is my biggest hurdle right now. That, and money. Ha!

Link in my sig. I'll PM you my mobile number. TXT or call any time. If I can help, I'm happy to.

You'll be helping to motivate me!

Posted by: 914GTSTI Jan 29 2015, 11:44 PM

Thanks CptTripps !

Been working and thinking about coil over's for the car. So I started playing with some old stuff for a project I never started.

I will try to reuse the front BOGE tubes/spindles but with KYB's in it ? I can always go Bilsten later. Same with the rear but will need to do some more thinking about that.

Here is my first look at making a coil over. For you at home I have a lath to help with making things fit.Will need to turn the cartridge nut. To big and to close to the spring. Spring is a 10" x 2 1/2". Thinking the front will be 175# and the rear at 200# +- ?

Plan is to weld a perch on the front tube and build a spacer for the rear ? Will try to keep its mounts all stock.

Have also been thinking about the 4 to 5 problem. Most of the GT/lookalikes seam to use spacers to fill out the wheel wells. So think I'm going to use a front adaptor to go 4 to 5/130 ? Still working on what to do to the rear.









I know I can just buy it but what fun would that be ?

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 4 2015, 12:58 PM

I got a set of Boxster hubs. Now I need to know if a 1976 911, 108mm stub will work with it. I have read a little about needing a spacer,and I can make that. And the need to add mounting holes to tie it to the hub.



Thinking about staying with a parking brake. Was thinking after reading, that a 914-6 brake rotor and a spacer on the 914 caliper would be the way to go ? Do I have that right ?

With it being a 930 flange it looks to be a little tight but should work. Think I will use a small offroad CV boot ? Because of the Subaru trans I will build the a flange for another 930 and use 28 spline offroad axles.

What do you think ?
Thanks,Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 5 2015, 05:27 PM

I, cleaned up a 914-4 brake rotor and bolted (one hole) to the Boxster hub. It almost self centers. I then tightened up the wheel lug. Used a transfer punch to mark the 5 bolt pattern. Will drill them after getting a bit for a stud mount ? I want to do a mock up so I'm using what I have. Anybody try using allen bolts for wheel studs ? In dirt racing it is a cheep way to go . With some luck the stub's will be here in a day or two ?





The trailing arm is in the bead-blaster for cleaning. Then some welding. Any body on the board sell the metal kits for the chassis and trailing arm's ?

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 5 2015, 05:34 PM

I also found a stud set for the hubs. What kind on nut system does the 911 Fluk wheel use ? Is it Man,Ball or conical ? I was thinking its conical but don't know for sure.

Price is right also +- ?

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=24

Randy

Its a Ball seat. Now I know !

Posted by: J P Stein Feb 5 2015, 08:32 PM

Now here's a pic I havn't posted for a long time.

Posted by: Randal Feb 5 2015, 08:35 PM

Pretty when they are just finished!

Posted by: J P Stein Feb 5 2015, 08:47 PM

Aw, come on. the shitbox was always pretty.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 6 2015, 08:38 PM

So I was looking into do I need the torsion bars if I go to coil overs and found this.



This car was hit on the driver side and I think it got pushed ? I will clean things up and think maybe I will need to cut the mount out of one of my donors ?







All cleaned up.



Back to the coil over with or with out torsion bar. The answer looks to be just leave them out. Rusted in good. But out now.





Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 7 2015, 10:36 AM

In looking at the mount today it will be a pain to remove . So what would be wrong with cutting it out ( dotted line) like the photo and weld it back in ?



Was thinking I can use the tab from the rear tie bar to hold it in place for welding .

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 7 2015, 07:49 PM

Got some thing out of the doner. I pulled the hole mount . I think I will remove the spot welds from the backside of the stamping. Then I will drill out the centers and spot weld to the chassis. This may give me more metal for the welding ?



I will need to pull the "A" frame on the passenger side and the steering rack to get to the spot welds on the damage part. PAIN !

But it is the best way to repair it. Going the other way was dumb !

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 7 2015, 09:39 PM

So I trimmed it up,drilled the pilot holes and used the weld cutter.
Now on to cutting out the bad part. Also need to weld up a small mistake. My bad.







Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 8 2015, 04:59 PM

Back to work. I know this is nothing like the work I see here but its all new to me. Installed the steering rear mount. Took about 3 hours. You guys doing hole floors,just incredible is all I can say !

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 8 2015, 05:06 PM

And now its all installed and almost looks stock ? Using the a frame mount work out well. Just make sure that the mount and chassis are in good shape.





Now on to the other holes and the jack plate. I may make my own mount ? Because I don't have the rear fender off it would be hard to install a complete one.

Not bad for a HACK !
Randy

Posted by: CptTripps Feb 9 2015, 10:25 AM

Nicely done!

Posted by: Mueller Feb 9 2015, 10:31 AM

Ditto...and thank you for saving another 914 (even if you are doing a Subaru conversion , hahahaha)

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 9 2015, 11:09 AM

Hay CptTripps. Found some wheels you liked on a green 914. What do you think,can I make them fit ? Their 996 7" and 9" 50 and 55 offset.. From the photo of the green car it looks to have spacers.



And thanks, I'm still learning.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 9 2015, 02:06 PM

A little more work on the Boxster to 108 axle. I'm not going to use a spacer. So I cut the spline about .112". (now I'm going to here it?)

After I get the trailing arms cleaned up I will put it together.





The spline on the Boxster hub will need to be cleaned up a little.

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 9 2015, 05:35 PM

Well you will need a spacer. I forgot the castle nut ! My bad.
So I made one. I will still shorten the spline . Want the spacer to sit very close to the shaft. The space could be stepped but I feel it will hold its shape better flat. Should torque up better ?






You could say its a thick washer ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 10 2015, 09:16 PM

A stiffey ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 11 2015, 12:40 PM

I now have 5x130 and a parking brake !







Now on to some welding !

Posted by: Brian Mifsud Feb 11 2015, 02:27 PM

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...

Posted by: 914forme Feb 11 2015, 02:47 PM

[/quote]

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...
[/quote]

Its not the hub he's drilling, its the rotors. Carry on, it should not be an issues. Just set two points, mark and drill. The lugs do not place the rotor in a perfect alignment. The counter sunk screw does that. Just make sure one of them matches up. And a lug bolt matches up, and go for it.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 11 2015, 06:32 PM

Yes I will use my mill.

I now have one stiffie !







Just need to weld the end.

Is their good way to pull the bushing ? And replace it with rubber or ??. Will be going some track and fast driving.

Thanks, Randy

Posted by: Brian Mifsud Feb 12 2015, 11:11 AM

[quote name='914forme' date='Feb 11 2015, 12:47 PM' post='2144938']
[/quote]

Hi Randy,
I'd be alot more cautious about locating those holes. Using a transfer punch and the hub both introduce significant error. That's a job for a milling machine with a rotary table in my opinion. Otherwise the compounding tolerances could introduce some very unwelcome high speed wobble...
[/quote]

Its not the hub he's drilling, its the rotors. Carry on, it should not be an issues. Just set two points, mark and drill. The lugs do not place the rotor in a perfect alignment. The counter sunk screw does that. Just make sure one of them matches up. And a lug bolt matches up, and go for it.
[/quote]


My dad was a Machinist, and I make my living as a Mechanical Engineer. I've always been "belt AND suspenders" so any advice I give is coming from "overkill is just enough"....... My name is Brian and I have TRUST issues.....

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 12 2015, 05:57 PM

New paint.





Hello, my name is Randy and I have a car building problem !

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 14 2015, 12:56 PM

Looking at the rotor shield and found some cracking at the mounting holes. So I brazed some AN washers and should be go to go ?



Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 14 2015, 02:35 PM

I was doing some welding and I saw this on the bench. So it got welded also. May not need it but ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 16 2015, 12:44 PM

All installed. 930 CV, cut Boxster Hub, and a 108 MM stub. Stock brake caliper and rotor drilled 5x130.







Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 18 2015, 12:10 PM

Cleaned up the front cross bar and added some paint.



Been thinking maybe I will test fit the coil-over idea and see if it will work ? Also thinking about the German VW vented rotors with the 5x130 ? I can get them for $450 +- with shipping. I'm finding the 911SC front ends are big $$$$ .

Back when I started this I could have had all for $750. Wish I had gotten it then.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 18 2015, 05:12 PM

I know the manual said to drive out the bearing and the hub but it beats the hub a little. So I built 2 drivers.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 19 2015, 07:38 PM

Installed the crossbar and found the 11/1971 and the 09/1974 don't use the same lower ball joint. So I got the 74 lower arm and installed it.

Test fit the coil-over idea I have and it is going to be very close. With stock Alum. wheels ! Think a 1/4" spacer would be best with stock fenders. Tires in photos are 195/60r15'

I will be adding the steel GT flairs and 7 or 8" front wheels and 8 or 9" rear. At this point I'm not sure what spacers if any will be needed and foresure don't know with the coil-over's in the front ?











But it looks like it will work !
Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 19 2015, 07:43 PM

And no, i'm not going to use a 300# spring on the front. And some idiot mounted directional tire on backwards ! What a dip stick.

Posted by: CptTripps Feb 25 2015, 02:22 PM

Great job on the front/rear suspension parts. I powder-coated all of mine, and I wish I wouldn't have.

Posted by: 914forme Feb 25 2015, 02:55 PM

I was going to ask if you had calculated out the actual spring rate compared to the torsion bars you are replacing.

Stock 911 19mm is ~110 Lb/in These are an upgrade to a 914 btw.
21 mm ~ 175 Lb/in
22 mm ~ 210 Lb/in
23 mm ~ 250 Lb/in
24 mm ~ 300 Lb/in
25 mm ~ 350 Lb/in

I never calculated the stock 914-4 bar as I never ran them. I rounded the above numbers to match QA1 springs you can buy. You could go variable, as they make 100-200lbs/in and a 140-250lbs/in, and a 175-350lbs/in. Never thought about using them as I have always gone linear.

Posted by: 914forme Feb 25 2015, 07:12 PM

Stock 914 T-bars are ~90 lbs/in just to add that little bit. Again I rounded to a spring you might be able to get from Qa1

Posted by: 914GTSTI Feb 26 2015, 03:35 PM

Thanks.

I was thinking that I would start with 200 F and 175 rear ?

I want to get the chassis with the new motor/trans and stuff first then check it on the scales. May give me a better idea about where to start ?
Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Mar 1 2015, 04:15 PM

Look what I found . 2005 WRX tran's with LSD . COOL.





Also got yelled at by my Wife. So no EG33 for me. Just going to use the STI motor. Also going with MS3-pro. This should be interesting ?

Randy

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 27 2015, 01:55 PM

Getting ready for my winter project. (914) Been a little off track with old project's.

Just finishing up a Rally Forester that I used the Sti motor in. Now I will need to look for another motor ? Did a Rally-X in Tucson and had a blast. Using this motor in a 914 will be so very "COOL" ! Still needs paint but that will come.



I will try to stay on point with the 914.
Randy

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 27 2015, 02:07 PM

Didn't see this thread before. Very cool.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 27 2015, 02:09 PM

Now for a motor question. What about the EZ30. Because I need a motor was thinking how much I like the sound of the 6.

Good idea,bad idea? I will stay with Subaru so this is another option. Want the water cooled motor because I live in AZ.

Thanks for the input ! Randy

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 27 2015, 03:12 PM

If your asking me I say EZ30 all the way. Sweet engine. I too wanted an EG33 until Bob (BIGKAT83) and Ian (coldwater,com) both steered me towards a EZ. Never regretted that decision. And yes, the sound is sweet, too!

Posted by: flmont Oct 27 2015, 04:46 PM

I thought EG33's had the most pwr,..and that the EZ30's were way less pwr,..??? FM

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 27 2015, 06:01 PM

The EG's do have more power and aftermarket parts. They are also longer and heavier. IIRC the EG is 230hp and the EZ is 212hp. The EZ series has a longer engine life, some say. I've no problems using the factory ECU w/ the EZ30D and the car runs quite well. My buddy Chris has been wrestling with his EG33 using a factory ECU. He thinks it could possibly be some engine monitoring devices are hay wire which he will confirm over this winter. So if your on the "EG33 w/ factory ECU bandwagon", stay tuned. Or, forget the factory ECU go MegaSquirt. I think the only thing you would lose is the cold start feature.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 27 2015, 07:06 PM

Go 3.6R Most HP from a stock sub -6

I am running a EG33, and yes they can make way more power over 1000 HP. That being said, the EZs make it easier to package in the engine compartment.

I have several EG33s now so I will be sticking with them for a while.

Are you driving or navigating? I have done a few rallies and getting a good navigator is key, who can understand timing, and not get sick. My wife is defiantly not a navigator.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 27 2015, 07:30 PM

Megasquirt has the cold start feature. I think my problem is the IAC valve is dirty but I'll check everything when I flip the intake around. Either that or the purge control valve solenoid which is clicking occasionally (and I don't even have the canister hooked up). I also just found out the stock air intake is pretty critical, so I'll switch back to that.

The difference between the EZ and the EG is only 20 hp. I've driven both in a 914 and I doubt you could tell which was which if you didn't know. One is definitely NOT way faster than the other in stock form. There is a lot of aftermarket stuff for the EG33, and it is a pretty cool looking engine. It's also very strong and overbuilt internally. That's pretty much it. The EZ is smaller, lighter, newer. And it has a timing chain, not a belt.

Posted by: flmont Oct 27 2015, 08:24 PM

Ahh,..yea, if that's all,. then most likely a EZ is a better setup,..I must be looking in the wrong place for EG33 stuff,..I don't find much but headers and better fuel injectors,..how much is a mega squirt system,..out front quoted me 1800.00 for there stinger box and harness,..Iam so ready to go with a EG33 or the EZ,..but a EZ cost is most likely way higher ???,..can both engines be Camed for performance,.. FM

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 28 2015, 08:07 AM

I'm a driver or at least I think I am ? LOL Been doing the Rally-X thing to start. Then we will see. Over built the car because that is what I do.

This info is great, keep it coming.

Most of the motors (EZ) don't seem to have harness's and ECU's so I was thinking Mega S ? Also do the JDM EZ have more power like some of the other JDM stuff ?

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 28 2015, 08:46 AM

I think I remember reading that there is a performance chip for the EG33. As far as performance add-ons: John at OutFront would know if anyone. Also, his Stinger package ain't such a bad thing if you factor in your time.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 28 2015, 04:59 PM

You can megasquirt the EZ. Bob's (BIGKAT_83) was and it ran very well. Felt just like a stock Subaru (no jittering or weird quirks). If you search on the message boards over there you can find his comments. Just search for EZ30. If you have experience with it you can do the DIYPNP and save some cash.

The only thing I know about JDM engines is related to the EG33. It's not the engine, it's mostly the ECU. They are much simpler. More of a static map, no altitude correction, etc. There are also fewer controls. No EGR system, fewer solenoids and sensors to break, etc. Sometimes the rev limiter is higher. You can do whatever map you want with megasquirt and you will eliminate the extras I mentioned.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 19 2018, 01:29 PM

A very way off but does anyone know what color number this car was ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 31 2018, 05:27 PM

Back on a build. But having trouble with what way to go ? Build the want-to be 914 GT or restart the kit car what-to-be a 908-3 ?

Today I got the center diff out and the adapter on and end plate. This tran's could go on ether car.

But I also have a 914 trans with a adapter, starter,flywheel for a Subaru. I have a non-Sti ,turbo motor on it.





Maybe save the Subaru trans for the tube car ???

Anybody know the answer to the color question ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 10 2018, 01:45 PM

Got some parts in. Very nice !



But still trying to decide what way to go ? Use the 2.0 turbo with the 901 or sell that setup and go with a EZ30 and the MT5 ?

Ideas ?

Posted by: mepstein Nov 10 2018, 04:08 PM

MT5

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 10 2018, 04:33 PM

MT5 = Manual Transmission 5 speed, think that is what Subaru calls it.

Posted by: 914forme Nov 10 2018, 07:52 PM

There really should not be a question at this time. MT5 MT5 MT5

And any Subaru you want

Posted by: Chi-town Nov 11 2018, 05:41 PM

That trans is not 05 WRX. The giveaway is it's a push clutch and that starts in 06'.

There are no factory LSD in the US 5 speeds, did someone install one?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 11 2018, 06:02 PM

Yes, I found out the tran's is a 06. Male axles and using the case numbers.

I was told by the old owner it has a LSD but we will see.

Also been think over the weekend and think I will just use the 901 and the Turbo " Leg "motor and build a cradle for it. Also think I will leave the GT idea behind.

This will free up the trans and EZ30 for a different build.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 12 2018, 10:49 AM

IMHO, running a 901 on anything other than a Porsche power plant is akin to driving a square peg into a round hole.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 5 2022, 01:41 PM

Working on the trailing arm. Does this look ok ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 5 2022, 05:55 PM

Went back and reread my build. Only change was I used weld-through paint on this arm. Man I have been doing this car for a long time. Sad. But I'm not dead yet.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 15 2022, 10:30 AM

After looking at 6 taillights. I now have one left and one right. What a pain. But I saved $$$.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 15 2022, 10:32 AM

After looking at 6 taillights. I now have one left and one right. What a pain. But I saved $$$.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 15 2022, 07:36 PM

Supply's are here. Paint the "Mirror Chrome" tomorrow .

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 16 2022, 05:55 PM

First paint down. Black. In 48 hours I will spray the chrome. Then we will see. But anything will be better than what is not their now.

Posted by: autopro Aug 16 2022, 09:00 PM

I've used that paint before and it works great, do light coats and it will really look like chrome. The only problems I've had is when I try to clear over it, the chrome turns dull and just looks like silver paint.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 16 2022, 11:58 PM

I did some checking and the "net" said don't do it and that is the way I will go.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 17 2022, 03:39 PM

Opened up the right jack point. Lower outer jack cove is rusted. The next inner panel is rusted. The next panel looks ok so far. Take a look and tell me what you would do ?






Need to move the lift arm to cut our the lower spot welds.

Posted by: rjames Aug 17 2022, 07:58 PM

Wire wheel and keep cutting back little by little until you hit good metal, then replace it.
I encountered a similar issue when I first got my car.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 17 2022, 10:11 PM

That was what I was thinking.
Thanks.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 27 2022, 04:23 PM

Been planning what wheels I will be using and don't want to pay for changing them. So started building a HF manual with the duck thing. Will test tomorrow. Will use the biggest tire and rim I have 295/50r15 on a 10 x 15 .

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 28 2022, 05:31 PM

A little more progress. Maybe test tomorrow ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 28 2022, 05:32 PM

A little more progress. Maybe test tomorrow ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 29 2022, 04:58 PM

It works !
Just need to get it bolted to the shop floor.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Aug 29 2022, 07:57 PM

question. Leave the the motor seal or remove it ? I will be using EZ Subaru motor.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 1 2022, 05:17 PM

Tested the tire change and it worked Great. Now I can play with any tires I want.

Painted the chrome today also. What do you think ?

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 2 2022, 12:06 AM

Wanted to say THANK's to 914 Rubber. I ordered two turn signal covers and gaskets and for got the screws. I then ordered the 4 screws on a different order. I got a refund for the shipping . They put the screws in the first order. Way to go 914 Rubber. "THANKS"

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 2 2022, 05:30 PM

All most ready. Just need the car to get finish.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 4 2022, 05:53 PM

First clean up. Used by blaster co clean off the bad paint and to prep for a refinish.

Posted by: autopro Sep 6 2022, 12:31 PM

Looking good, chrome paint came out great!

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 7 2022, 05:07 PM

Mounted up a 185/55R15. Looks good.





And the 914 Rubber lens and seal are installed. Simple thing but fun.




Did the math on the Subaru WRX 5MT with a EZ30R using the 185/55R15.
At 2500 rpm with a speed of 62 in 5 gear.

Also tested the tail lights. May need to get new covers ?



Any reason not to go with this size tire?

On a side note I'm not going to go with the GT look. Maybe later but for now .
Just going to do the repairs and get on the road.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Sep 11 2022, 01:18 AM

One more wheel cleaned and will seal on Wednesday. Using Cerakote Clear - Aluminum MC-5100.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 3 2022, 02:05 PM

A very little more. But it is moving forward.

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 6 2022, 02:02 PM

Some more cutting. Need to get a face shield.


Is their a listing for the spot welds on the panels. Like where they are ?
Thanks



Attached image(s)

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 14 2022, 07:43 PM

Am I getting this right ?

Posted by: R_u_dd Oct 15 2022, 08:57 AM

Zerodecibalmotorsports.com. is that the vendor website?

Posted by: 914pipe Oct 15 2022, 10:11 PM

I'm running a EG33 with a FuelTech 550. If I change my engine I will go with the 3.6 . But you won't go wrong with the EZ30.

Maybe you have seen this clip:

https://youtu.be/uod6avfs4AM

Here are some pics of my running build... It's stupid fast and make great noises!





Keep it up!!! I would like to see more of this build!!!

Pipe

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 16 2022, 11:30 PM

Yes, great run. But I think you may have cooked your tires .

Posted by: 914GTSTI Oct 31 2022, 11:21 AM

Things change. Putting up my car's for sale with all the parts. EJ20T with Kennedy adaptor kit with new starter , two 914 motors not running. Exhaust built for Subaru motor to turbo. Two cars with titles one I can't find. Main car is almost rust free but drivers side front has been fixed at some time. Two tran's one side shift. One is a roller the others are on pallets. 5 Fluke wheels 3 striped . Some photos of the other car's. Have a forklift to help load.

$6500

Thanks

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 2 2022, 11:04 PM

OK
I will just build it .

Posted by: mgp4591 Nov 3 2022, 05:52 PM

You've got a support group with fellow Subaru hybrids here and thanks for your posts so far. Look forward to many more to inspire me and others as well!

Posted by: 914GTSTI Nov 3 2022, 11:33 PM

I will try to keep driving.