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Posted by: cary Nov 28 2012, 09:49 PM

Taking a time out on my rustoration project.

Decided to tackle my problem with the engine lid hinge on my other car.
Late last summer I found the hinge was coming away from the body.
Hinge wasn't cracked. Spot welds were still intact.
The damn firewall had cracked. Right above the top spot welds.

Posted by: cary Nov 28 2012, 10:01 PM

The extra hole was a feeble attempt at tightening it up last summer.
Tried a self taping screw. Didn't work
Couldn't see the crack until the hinge was taken off.

Man that is some thin metal ..................... Going to put in a patch.
Left the shop with the weld thru primer drying on the work bench.

I don't understand why the metal is so thin. I assume it has sometime to do with forming the ridges in the firewall.

Posted by: partwerks Nov 28 2012, 11:09 PM

Ridges would probably be to stiffen up the sheet metal.

Posted by: aharder Nov 29 2012, 06:17 AM

J West has the set up
http://www.jwesteng.com/porsche/914/

Posted by: zambezi Nov 29 2012, 07:27 AM

I see a trunk hinge setup but i don't see anything for the engine lid from Jwest. Am I missing something?

Posted by: jimkelly Nov 29 2012, 07:40 AM

i don't think the engine lid brackets go bad very often.

jwest only has a trunk hinge repair kit.




Attached image(s)

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 09:56 AM

I think we'll attach the patch on top to tie it all together.
No way to access to butt weld.
Might need to shorten the lid side of the hinge a smidgen to get the perfect fit. Or length the slot.

Posted by: 9146986 Nov 29 2012, 01:00 PM

If you overlay the metal it would push the engine lid rearward, and close the gap between the trunk lid, so slotting the holes is a good idea.

That's a tough place to fix. The two layers of metal and the bends in that top section make it a challenge.

Have you tried a Blair Rotabroach? They make the best spot weld cutter.

Not the cheapest spot weld cutter, but they last much longer and are faster and easier to use.

http://www.blairequipment.com/Rotabroach_Cutters/rota_cutters.html

Posted by: SirAndy Nov 29 2012, 02:34 PM

I dis-agree ...

I see them fail all the time, they usually crack either at the 90 degree bend or the firewall itself cracks near the spot welds.

This is *very* common!

While you are in there, add a bit of metal right at the 90 degree bend on the hing to give it a bit more strength in that area.

Posted by: mr914 Nov 29 2012, 04:15 PM

Where is it common to crack?

I'm having an alignment issue on my '71. Stiffened the hinge with a little weld bead this summer. Still the one side is 1/2" too far out

Posted by: Jgilliam914 Nov 29 2012, 06:12 PM

I am in the process of welding 2 new hinges on mine. IMO one hinge becomes weak and puts the other in a bind then both are in the same shape.I thought welding up the weak areas in them but decided to replace them both. I bought them years ago and saw them when I moved this past summer and damned if I can find them now But I do have the area all prepped whenever I do find them

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:25 PM

No, but those where cut with my new set of Rotacut sheetmetal cutters.
http://www.hougen.com/cutters/sheetmetal/Rotacut.html
Trying to make smaller holes, broke the 1/4 inch one off in the first hole.
I hate to say they work a bit better than the HF one. LOL.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:36 PM

Just thought I would add a little note.

Here's a product I use when welding or soldering brass pipe.
Fire proof mat.



Bought this one at HD for $18 each. Kind of expensive. But better than a Car B Que.
Bought two.



Didn't want to catch the engine sound deadening mat on fire.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:40 PM

Getting ready to weld on the patch.



Prepped location with weld thru primer.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:43 PM

Aligning the patch and holding it with my Big Ass HF magnet.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:45 PM

Tacked in, ready to check alignment.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 08:56 PM

Here's it installed and covered with self etching primer.
Waiting for the primer to dry. Then I'll seam seal the top and sides.
I'm pretty certain lack of weld thru primer was the culprit.

Didn't grind the welds up tight. Might have issues with the other side in the future and may need to remove to get a CW alignment. Right now the lid is just a little lower than the two sides.

Posted by: cary Nov 29 2012, 09:02 PM

But bad news. I found a little rust under the rear seal.



So letting a couple applications of Ospho to dry.
Then I'll jam some Rustoleum into the location.
After that, a trip to 914Rubber's website to replace the seal.