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Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:23 PM

What year 911 front ends will bolt up to a teener? What are the various pros and cons, and which pieces will I need? I've looked through the archives, but the information is real spotty.

Thanks,
Matt

Posted by: seanery Nov 7 2004, 08:26 PM

if you want bigger brakes as well as 5 lug, SC and Carrera are good choices.

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:32 PM

Any particular year models that are desirable/undesirable ?

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 08:36 PM

Stay away from ANY of the Bilstein strut combo's. They are all wearing out at the top. They are green in color.

Use: 78-83 911 SC or a little bigger stuff 84-89 Carrera

Plan on rebuilding everything you buy. I have people telling me about these "great" deals they find on used struts only to learn that EVERYTHING is worn out (rotors/bearings/ball joints..)

Dont buy a complete front end. You only need the actual struts/shocks/hubs/rotors/calipers.


B

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:40 PM

Well I just sent an e-mail to a Porsche Parts junkyard in TN. We'll see what they have and at what price!

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 08:41 PM

Also... I run across 2-3 911 street cars a week with bent struts. These are not cars that have been wrecked... just peoples daily drivers. I'm VERY careful on what I buy/look for now.

It almost isnt worth the pain. Buy new struts and used hubs/calipers.


B

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:43 PM

I just found a guy with a 73 Targa that has the front end parts available here in Mississippi. What would your take on using this be?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Nov 7 2004, 08:45 PM

i have a 73 front end in mine. works good. M calipers are plenty sufficient.

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:46 PM

What about this?
I have some from a early 911 and 912 like 71 down, price is $200 for the complete setup!

Mine is only a '72, but wouldn't going backwards be a bad idea?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Nov 7 2004, 08:49 PM

73 uses the good later style tapered pin ball joints (cheaper!!!)

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 08:53 PM

Now, do these all bolt up to the existing 914 lower control arm?

Posted by: Aaron Cox Nov 7 2004, 08:57 PM

yes. they all do.

Brad can eleborate on the ball joint compatability

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 08:58 PM

What year is your car ?? and what engine do you have ??


B

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 09:01 PM

I have a '72 with a four built to about 2.1 liters with a mild webcam and dual Dellortos. Bigger brakes are something I'd like, but the 5-lug is what I'm after.

The brakes are desirable because I have "plans" to build a monster. It will probably be years though....

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 09:03 PM

Can you look at the car right now ?? You need to see which balljoints you have.

Early cars used a bolt and nut through the ball joint.

Late cars used a taper pin with a 13mm nut on one end.

72 is a funky year depending on your production number.


B

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 09:11 PM

Just looked...I've got the taper pin.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 09:14 PM

Stick with the 73 and up stuff. I personally wouldnt put anything less than a 78 setup on it so you get the 3.5 inch bolt spacing in case you want bigger calipers later. The early "S" stuff with the flexy aluminum calipers is 3.5 inch also.

Key is: all the caliper adapters available are designed for 3.5 inch spacing. All the early struts are 3 inch.


B

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 09:18 PM

Sounds like good advice. So, these would bolt up to my existing control arms and ball joints or would the ball joints have to be changed?

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 09:20 PM

They would bolt right up. You will have to figure something out with the brake lines. Plan on installing turbo tie rods if you havent already (get the car aligned one time..not twice)


B

Posted by: datapace Nov 7 2004, 09:24 PM

Not to hijack, but what's the easiest way to tell if a strut housing is bent?

-bryan

Posted by: mharrison Nov 7 2004, 09:24 PM

So the brake lines would require some adapter or a custom braided line? Are the ends different or do you just need different lengths and/or positions?

Posted by: Brad Roberts Nov 7 2004, 09:26 PM

It is how the lines are held to the struts (you know that little clip that can be a bitch to get off ??LOL)

The 914 fleible lines are different than the 911 flexible lines.



B

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 8 2004, 06:22 PM

Try to get the entire front suspension (a-arms, calipers and all). I've seen them go for $150 on up. This way you'll get the 19mm t-bars as well.

I would go with the 73 because I'm not a big fan of the under-body anti-sway bars but... if you're just going struts then get the later with the A-Calipers (what Brad's recommending).

The only problem I'd see there is the balance of the system with the stock rear brakes. Some have taken out the p-valve and others have gone a step further by installing an ajustable bias lever. Others who have a similar setup can weigh in but it seems like that may work. However, when I stepped up to that sized caliper up front I installed the appropriate 911 rear caliper as well. Not one to second guess the Porsche engineers. Then you'll need a parking brake.

If'n it was me (which it aint)? I'd go with that complete 73 911 front suspension. I'd use the 911 M-calipers (good enough for a 914-6 and a good match to your 2.1) and retain the stock rear calipers with the parking brake. I'd also ditch the p-valve in favor of a "T" and call it a day.

My $0.02

Posted by: mack914 Nov 8 2004, 08:15 PM

I put a complete '83 sc front end on, maintained the original rear brakes without any issues. It was amazing the difference in the front end, handling and braking. Since the five lug conversion had already been done, no reason to change out the rears.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 8 2004, 08:56 PM

Stock p-valve and all?

Not doubting or anything... I think that's cool. It's just hard to believe that the rears are even working.

Good for you!

Posted by: bondo Nov 8 2004, 09:06 PM

Posted by: anthony Nov 8 2004, 09:11 PM

Brad is there a way to see that a strut is bent before you put it on the car/alignment rack?

Posted by: Eric_Shea Nov 8 2004, 09:18 PM

There's a fancy alignment jig the factory has. Pics are all over the factory manuals. I've never seen one, you usually find out when the alignment shop says they can't get the negative camber out. They sag over the years.

Call your local dealer and see if they have the jig... all they need to do is drop the strut in the jig and you'll have your answer.