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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ 2.0 head rocker arm stud replacement

Posted by: AE354803 Jan 22 2013, 08:24 PM

I've had valve train noise that was only RPM dependent and everything was adjusted properly. I have hydraulic lifters/cam. So while disassembling today I found that one of my rocker arm studs is slightly stripped and that would definitely give me noise.

I grabbed a new stud, any advice for how to remove the old one?

Everything else looks great, lifters are smooth, pushrods look great, no pitting on the rockers.

Think I should replace the other stud as well?

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Posted by: stugray Jan 22 2013, 08:40 PM

Call EMW:

http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/vw/type-4-engine-parts.html

Get their heavy duty rocker stud kit.
Problem solved.

Stu

Posted by: euro911 Jan 23 2013, 02:11 AM

Double nut it and unscrew it.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jan 23 2013, 08:50 AM

Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, how's the double nut trick gonna work with those stripped threads?

The Cap'n

Posted by: r_towle Jan 23 2013, 09:04 AM

Weld a nut on there first.
Then heat up the stud to loosen it from the head (some corrosion in there)
Then by hand, turn back and forth a little at a time, and then heat the stud up again.

Eventually it will come loose.

rich

Posted by: AE354803 Jan 23 2013, 01:35 PM

Thanks guys, I don't have a welder so I just ran a tap over the threads, rethreaded a nut covered with JB weld and this morning it came out easily.

Only problem is all my literature does not have a tightening torque for the rocker stud. All I can find is the rocker arm nut torque of 10 ft-lb.

Do I just hand tighten with Red threadlock until it's seated and then let the threadlock dry?

Posted by: Bob L. Jan 23 2013, 01:40 PM

QUOTE(AE354803 @ Jan 23 2013, 01:35 PM)

Only problem is all my literature does not have a tightening torque for the rocker stud. All I can find is the rocker arm nut torque of 10 ft-lb.

Do I just hand tighten with Red threadlock until it's seated and then let the threadlock dry?

I had the same question about replacement exhaust studs. Was told not to torque the studs into the head, just the headers on the stud. I made them pretty snug 10-15 lb-ish.

Posted by: AE354803 Jan 23 2013, 02:12 PM

That's what I was guessing, I'll just ask my local shop when I stop to pick up more parts today.

I wonder if there's a thread for hard to find torques? All I can find is the one from the repair manual.

Posted by: euro911 Jan 23 2013, 03:09 PM

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Jan 23 2013, 06:50 AM)

Uhhhhhhhhhhhh, how's the double nut trick gonna work with those stripped threads?

The Cap'n

OK, in this case, triple-nut

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Jan 23 2013, 04:11 PM

"JB Weld"? Not exactly what it's made for, and I doubt using it made the slightest bit of difference. People tend to assign it attributes it doesn't actually have. You probably could have removed it with a pair of curved jaw adjustable pliers.

No Loctite, just turn it in until it's snug. Imagine what this job would have been like if that sucker were glued in? Loctite is frequently overused.

The Cap'n