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Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 11:12 AM

Hi Guys,

I'm a new member. I bought my 914, which was/is my first car, in 1985. I drove it as a summer car from 85-95. I would bet that I only put 10,000 kms on it over that time, if that. Then my education and career got in the way and it hasn't been licensed since. It was driven to the spot where it now sits (in a shed on the farm where I grew up, a couple of hours away from me) in 2001 after having not been registered since 1995. I've finally reached a point in my life where I can take time to work on cars. I started doing my own maintenance on my 928 a couple of years ago and love working on it (as long as I don't screw anything up). So, I'm just beginning but am eager to learn (yes, I can already see these coming : )

I'll attach pics of the car in its current condition below. I apologize in advance for the scores of questions that I will be asking in the coming months and years. I've been reading through a number of topics and see how helpful folks are on this forum, which helps to take much of the anxiety out of taking on this project.

This is going to be a long-term project as I'm still busy with work etc. My goal for this summer is to try to get it running and get everything working. Then over the winter develop a specific plan for restoration and give'er next summer. I spoke to the previous owner recently. He has owned many 914s and couldn't recall any specifics of this car. At the time I bought it I seem to recall someone saying that it came as a 1.7 but they had put a 1.8 into it. But the PO didn't recall changing the engine. So, question #1, how can I tell if it is a numbers matching car?

The car was mices free until last winter, and then last summer when I looked at it I found a couple of nests . So, my first order of business in the spring will be to don a P100 respirator and clean out the mouse remnants. I'll throw out the aftermarket carpet I had put in. I've seen on this forum somewhere that there are OE looking carpet kits available. I'm pleasantly surprised by the available of parts for these cars.

Problems with the car that I recall from when I last drove it:

1. when I would drive on a dusty gravel road dust would bellow in from under the dash (maybe rust holes in the longs and heater pipes?).
2. I think the car had been hit in the left rear corner. The left rear wheel always had a slight wobble to it. Maybe needs new wheel bearing? The trunk back corners never sat perfectly flat, and the rear left fender always had an odd bubble area (filler?) by the bumper. I had it repainted and the bubble was still there ). Rear bumper is black, front chrome. All indications for trauma to the back.
3. At the very end of driving it, the speedo started to make a whining noise. I think the car has about 86,000 kms on it.
4. The brake pedal had lost some tension and so after applying, I would pull it back with my foot.
5. The shifter was always a little bit sloppy.
6. The windshield wipers were never very good; couldn't keep up with a strong rain (this may be normal?)
7. Every spring, after sitting all winter, something would seize in the clutch and it wouldn't work. The technique my Dad figured out was to put the car in reverse and start it up. After the car would move back a bit the clutch would come free and work fine??
8. The only thing I ever had to have done to the car was move the fuel pump to the front due to vapor lock. It never let me down after that.

Any thoughts and advice you have on starting the process of fixing her up will be most welcome. Here she is:

Posted by: Kirmizi Jan 29 2013, 11:56 AM

Posted by: JawjaPorsche Jan 29 2013, 12:26 PM

Hi Doug

First: Welcome to 914 World. This is my opinion and only my opinion: This car may very costly to get it the way you want. The body has a lot of rust and you did not show us the interior. The motor and drivetrain needs a lot of work. I am not trying to discourage because you sound really excited about working on the car but I want you to know that up front what you are facing. Just a thought, have you considering purchasing another but good running 914 and use this car for parts. You may come way out ahead and save a lot of money and heartbreak with this decision. This is my two cents.

Looking through the dust, it looks like a 1.7 but I could be wrong.

If you will look at my car (below link) you will see what I have done during the past 18 months. I have spent over $5,000 parts and labor and I had a good 914 to start with. No body work, no painting, no rebuild.

Good luck and welcome again.

Terry

Posted by: rgolia Jan 29 2013, 12:40 PM

, but it is your first car.....if the memories are there go for it...that is what I did.

Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 29 2013, 12:55 PM

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 12:56 PM

Thanks, guys, for the welcome. It is disheartening that you think it's that bad. The resto threads I've looked at suggested to me that this one was in comparatively good shape/all there. But, I have no experience and can imagine that when it's disassembled it will be another story. What are the big costs associated with this? I'm planning to do all of the metal work myself. Yes, I am a novice welder. Just bought a MIG before Christmas and have been having fun practicing. My first project has been to refurbish my 33 year old 928 muffler; learned lots about burn through etc.

My attachment is sentimental, but budget constraints put a limit to how far sentimentality can take me.

Posted by: JawjaPorsche Jan 29 2013, 01:06 PM

Doug

Please don't get discourage just because of my opinion. There may be others on this forum that will say go for it. Your welding skills will definitely be a plus. There is someone on this forum that has been working on his car with a college budget and his car was just painted and it looks great. Follow your dream and heart.

Terry

Posted by: dlee6204 Jan 29 2013, 01:09 PM

QUOTE(JawjaPorsche @ Jan 29 2013, 01:26 PM)

Posted by: billh1963 Jan 29 2013, 01:32 PM

Need pictures of the longs, trunks, hell hole, floor boards, etc. to see the full extent of the rust. Only then will you know what you are facing!

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 02:14 PM

Terry, no worries. I'm a firm believer in the value of a good dose of reality.

I have one or two pics of the interior I will search for tonight and post.

I don't have any pics of underneath. Next time I'm at the farm I'll take some pics and will post. It's definitely going to have significant rust as it's never been touched under there.

Posted by: billh1963 Jan 29 2013, 02:30 PM

Look for the thread on my car (started by scottyb) and you can see how bad "typical" rust can actually get. More cars on this site than we would like admit have similar issues...they just don't know it.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 04:44 PM

Here are all of the additional pics that I have of its current condition. Now I'm really curious to see what it's like underneath. I won't take pics of the floor boards until I clean out the interior, but that won't happen until the spring; not looking forward to that job. You can see in the pics how the mices, which I hate to pieces, have brought in kernels of wheat to munch on, and undoubtedly left lots of remnants behind. The sheets of fabric softener were intended to keep them out. The glove box is in good shape, just opened. It always had that GM red light in the back pad. Can't wait to put a proper one in there.

Posted by: JawjaPorsche Jan 29 2013, 05:51 PM

The interior does not look bad at all!

Those damn rats can chew wires too! It is amazing where they build nests.

Posted by: Madswede Jan 29 2013, 06:13 PM

Did you relocate the fuse box to the front trunk so you wouldn't keep kicking the fuses out of it or was that done by someone else? (or is that just a normal second fuse box arrangement that I cannot remember since I haven't seen my car bone stock since 2008)

Posted by: SKL1 Jan 29 2013, 06:14 PM

Sentimentality plays a big part in a lot of these cars. My '71 was my first car and I've had it since new so it will always stay in the family. I have two boys who have inherited the "car" gene from me and their grandfather ( a previous 914 944 owner) so I'm in the process of restoring a '73 2.0 I've known since 1974 since it was owned by one of my best friends growing up. We autocrossed against each other throughout the '70's. When he died of a rare illness, his widow gave me the car to bring it back to life like he had wanted.
Spent a lot more than the car will ever be worth but it's worth it to us, and it will look amazing when done.

The day we brought it home from the body shop. Have a set of Fuchs from Weidmans waiting...

Posted by: Jgilliam914 Jan 29 2013, 06:17 PM

Welcome Doug!
Do not be discouraged at all. Take your time and do it when you have the time and money! I still have my second car and my first Porsche. 32 years I think? You may find the task at hand daunting at times. You may never run out of things to do to the car but if you can get it to run then drive thats a start. Enjoy it. You have something that many of us do not have, we just dream of owning our first car.

Posted by: Tom_T Jan 29 2013, 06:21 PM

Two great p-cars - the 914 & 914+14!

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 07:59 PM

QUOTE(JawjaPorsche @ Jan 29 2013, 05:51 PM)

The interior does not look bad at all!

Those damn rats can chew wires too! It is amazing where they build nests.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 08:01 PM

QUOTE(Madswede @ Jan 29 2013, 06:13 PM)

Posted by: kg6dxn Jan 29 2013, 08:13 PM

It becomes an addiction!


Realistically, the rust you can see is only 20-30% of what is there. You will find the underside of all the painted panels showing bubbles to be much worse than they appear. This does not mean it cannot be fixed. It just means you have much more rust repair than you see.

In my opinion, fixing it yourself is the only economical way to do it. At a glance, from your pictures, I would expect to pay a shop $10k in labor and parts to fix that car. Then you would still have to paint it (California prices). I may be cheaper to find a nice California or Arizona roller and import is to Canada. Only you can decide what your time and budget will allow.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 08:48 PM

QUOTE(kg6dxn @ Jan 29 2013, 08:13 PM)

It becomes an addiction!


Realistically, the rust you can see is only 20-30% of what is there. You will find the underside of all the painted panels showing bubbles to be much worse than they appear. This does not mean it cannot be fixed. It just means you have much more rust repair than you see.

In my opinion, fixing it yourself is the only economical way to do it. At a glance, from your pictures, I would expect to pay a shop $10k in labor and parts to fix that car. Then you would still have to paint it (California prices). I may be cheaper to find a nice California or Arizona roller and import is to Canada. Only you can decide what your time and budget will allow.

Posted by: JawjaPorsche Jan 29 2013, 08:48 PM

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Jan 29 2013, 09:01 PM)

QUOTE(Madswede @ Jan 29 2013, 06:13 PM)

Did you relocate the fuse box to the front trunk so you wouldn't keep kicking the fuses out of it or was that done by someone else? (or is that just a normal second fuse box arrangement that I cannot remember since I haven't seen my car bone stock since 2008)

No, the fuse box came like that. I never had to change a fuse in the car. I always wondered why they did that. Was it a common problem in the stock location?

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 29 2013, 10:46 PM

QUOTE(JawjaPorsche @ Jan 29 2013, 08:48 PM)

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Jan 29 2013, 09:01 PM)

QUOTE(Madswede @ Jan 29 2013, 06:13 PM)

Did you relocate the fuse box to the front trunk so you wouldn't keep kicking the fuses out of it or was that done by someone else? (or is that just a normal second fuse box arrangement that I cannot remember since I haven't seen my car bone stock since 2008)

No, the fuse box came like that. I never had to change a fuse in the car. I always wondered why they did that. Was it a common problem in the stock location?

The only problem with the original location is it was easy to dislodge a fuse when you got in the 914. The plastic fuse cover usually broke and would not stay on.

Posted by: rick 918-S Jan 30 2013, 09:24 AM

I don't think your upside down. The rusted front lid can be changed. There are lots guys on the forum with wiring harnesses they can toss in a box and ship to you. There are sources for rust repair panels. If I were you I would get a bunch of good storage bins and start taking the car apart in preperation for repair.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 30 2013, 09:48 AM

Thanks, Rick, for your encouragement, and thanks all for the stories of the role of sentimentality in some of these cars.

Rick, are you saying that it's better to just find a replacement hood than to fix the rust in the existing one?

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 30 2013, 09:55 AM

Something I've been wondering about as I read through resto threads concerns the welding warping the chassis and then door gaps changing. It seems some guys use a rotisserie, some use jack stands, and some are able to leave the car loaded on its suspension. If one does the latter, does one still need to use some kind of bracing or does having the car sitting on its wheels keep it in shape? Is it possible to do all of the metal work with the car on its wheels, and then remove the suspension components?

Posted by: Jgilliam914 Jan 30 2013, 09:56 AM

Rick, are you saying that it's better to just find a replacement hood than to fix the rust in the existing one?

Hell yes!!!!

Posted by: saigon71 Jan 30 2013, 10:11 AM

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Jan 30 2013, 10:55 AM)

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 30 2013, 04:40 PM

Are there instructions for how to properly brace a 914? Also, are there instructions for how to build a car dolly that would allow metal work but also support the tub in the correct position?

Posted by: steuspeed Jan 30 2013, 06:14 PM

There are tons of build and restoration threads here. Many that were in much worse condition then your car. I say go for it! Especially since it was your first car. Make it the way you had always dreamed. It will be worth about 8-10K all cleaned up and running. Priceless to you at that point.

Posted by: Gint Jan 30 2013, 07:19 PM

Hi Doug.

Get it running and drive it a few times before you tear it down too far. Once you get hooked again, well...

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jan 30 2013, 11:17 PM

QUOTE(Gint @ Jan 30 2013, 07:19 PM)

Hi Doug.

Get it running and drive it a few times before you tear it down too far. Once you get hooked again, well...

Posted by: saigon71 Jan 31 2013, 04:55 PM

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Jan 30 2013, 05:40 PM)

Posted by: Krank Feb 10 2013, 07:35 PM

Hi Doug,

Got your PM. I plan on putting insurance on the silver '74 this summer. This is the car I bought in Muskegeon, Michigan and drove home. It is an unmolested 914 so you can study where everything really belongs. The only thing out of place is the battery. The PO (unannounced) re-located the battery to the rear trunk as the original battery shelf had failed. After the weather turns nice we can get together for a ride. Drop me a note after the street cleaners have been out and remind me, (age = high - memory = low).

Then you can have a look at my black one that is still on the rotissere. You can then see an example of a worst case (possibly) starting point you might be looking at. There are, like it has been said, lots of examples of rebuilds with tons of information and encouragement here on the world. Kudos to all these people here. I have had many different cars over the years and I don't think there are that many imports that someone is actually reproducing new body parts.

Jim

Posted by: doug_b_928 Feb 10 2013, 07:50 PM

That would be terrific, Jim! Great that you have one that is unmolested. What motor is in the 74? I've never seen a car on a rotisserie in real life; that will be cool! I will PM you in the spring (my memory is not what it used to be either, but this I won't forget ).

Posted by: doug_b_928 Mar 31 2013, 08:23 PM

For Easter weekend I went to the farm to visit my family and did a little work on the 914. I'd like to say I was pleasantly surprised, but I was unpleasantly shocked by the condition of the car . I began by removing the rocker panels. The body shop had riveted them at the door sill so I had to take them off with a hammer and screw driver. I'd never seen the longs, and they are a disaster. Filled with mouse nests (you can spot one in one of the pics . I got as much out as I could reach, but I'm sure there is much more in there. I also removed as much of the mouse remnants as I could from the interior and removed the carpet and vinyl that was covering the structural members in the floor pan area. I didn't get a chance to take a screwdriver to the floors and inner longs. The inner longs looked pretty good, but the screwdriver test will tell the tale. The doors open and close as well as they ever did, which is not perfectly but they do work.

Below are pictures that are not for the faint of heart. I'm hoping that the gurus here will study them and give me their opinion on the feasibility of fixing her up. I know I can get new sheet metal from RD for the longs etc., but I'm worried that the metal is rotten where I'd be welding the new panels to. Is the general rule, if it doesn't punch through with a good tap from a flat head screwdriver then the metal in that spot is probably okay?

Here are the pics of the brutality:

[attachmentid=378
191][attachmentid
=378199][attachme
ntid=378207][atta
chmentid=378211][
attachmentid=378216][attachmentid=3782
19]


Attached image(s)

Posted by: saigon71 Mar 31 2013, 08:54 PM

Doug:

Sorry to see these pics. It looks at least as bad as the train wreck I bought about 4 years ago. I have a build thred on this site so you will get an idea of what you are in for - mouse nests & all.

There is hope...and I do not mean to discourage you...quite the contrary, as I like seeing teeners come back to life. If you are looking for a project, you got it! If you are looking for a teener to drive and enjoy with minimal work, I would bail out and look elsewhere.

It's becomes all about sentimental value for you. This project will try your patience and put a strain on your wallet.

Good luck with your decisions & keep us posted.

Bob

Posted by: doug_b_928 Mar 31 2013, 09:08 PM

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Mar 31 2013, 09:54 PM)

Doug:

Sorry to see these pics. It looks at least as bad as the train wreck I bought about 4 years ago. I have a build thred on this site so you will get an idea of what you are in for - mouse nests & all.

There is hope...and I do not mean to discourage you...quite the contrary, as I like seeing teeners come back to life. If you are looking for a project, you got it! If you are looking for a teener to drive and enjoy with minimal work, I would bail out and look elsewhere.

It's becomes all about sentimental value for you. This project will try your patience and put a strain on your wallet.

Good luck with your decisions & keep us posted.

Bob

Posted by: jdlmodelt Mar 31 2013, 10:00 PM

I have to think

QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Jan 29 2013, 01:09 PM)

QUOTE(JawjaPorsche @ Jan 29 2013, 01:26 PM)

First: Welcome to x19 World. This is my opinion and only my opinion: This car may very costly to get it the way you want. The body has a lot of rust and you did not show us the interior. The motor and drivetrain needs a lot of work. I am not trying to discourage because you sound really excited about working on the car but I want you to know that up front what you are facing. Just a thought, have you considering purchasing another but good running x19 and use this car for parts. You may come way out ahead and save a lot of money and heartbreak with this decision. This is my two
cents.

I see a crusty battery tray and some rust bubbles... Where are you seeing "a lot of rust"? Without more/better pictures, we don't really know how bad this car is and its a little soon to be calling this car a goner Some more pictures underneath the car will tell more of the story.

Posted by: Jeff Bowlsby Mar 31 2013, 10:15 PM

Lots of rust repair/repalcement panels to save this one. Probably best as a rotisserie candidate, and would require sentimental value to justify.

Whats this engine support bar? Not stock.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: saigon71 Apr 1 2013, 05:20 AM

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Mar 31 2013, 11:08 PM)

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Mar 31 2013, 09:54 PM)

Doug:

Sorry to see these pics. It looks at least as bad as the train wreck I bought about 4 years ago. I have a build thred on this site so you will get an idea of what you are in for - mouse nests & all.

There is hope...and I do not mean to discourage you...quite the contrary, as I like seeing teeners come back to life. If you are looking for a project, you got it! If you are looking for a teener to drive and enjoy with minimal work, I would bail out and look elsewhere.

It's becomes all about sentimental value for you. This project will try your patience and put a strain on your wallet.

Good luck with your decisions & keep us posted.

Bob

Thanks, Bob. I did a scan of the build thread page and didn't see one with your name as the initial poster. Can you please let me know the title or provide a link? I'd like to check it out.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 1 2013, 07:51 AM

QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Mar 31 2013, 11:15 PM)

Posted by: Cupomeat Apr 1 2013, 10:37 AM

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Apr 1 2013, 09:51 AM)

QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Mar 31 2013, 11:15 PM)

Lots of rust repair/repalcement panels to save this one. Probably best as a rotisserie candidate, and would require sentimental value to justify.

Whats this engine support bar? Not stock.

Hmmm...what you see is how it came when I bought it in 85. In fact, I suspect the longs were already rusty back then.

Does anyone know if these empty connectors are the ones for the additional gauge cluster?

Posted by: arkitect Apr 1 2013, 11:07 AM

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Apr 1 2013, 03:20 AM)

QUOTE(doug_b_928 @ Mar 31 2013, 11:08 PM)

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Mar 31 2013, 09:54 PM)

Doug:

Sorry to see these pics. It looks at least as bad as the train wreck I bought about 4 years ago. I have a build thred on this site so you will get an idea of what you are in for - mouse nests & all.

There is hope...and I do not mean to discourage you...quite the contrary, as I like seeing teeners come back to life. If you are looking for a project, you got it! If you are looking for a teener to drive and enjoy with minimal work, I would bail out and look elsewhere.

It's becomes all about sentimental value for you. This project will try your patience and put a strain on your wallet.

Good luck with your decisions & keep us posted.

Bob

Thanks, Bob. I did a scan of the build thread page and didn't see one with your name as the initial poster. Can you please let me know the title or provide a link? I'd like to check it out.

Here is a link to my build thread.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=123957&hl=

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 1 2013, 11:48 AM

I'll be perusing Bob's thread as soon as I get a chance.

In the pic above of the right rear trailing arm, is that a rust hole or an intentional drainage hole?

Posted by: SUNAB914 Apr 1 2013, 02:12 PM

Looks like a pipe?
OOCH!

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 1 2013, 04:42 PM

QUOTE(SUNAB914 @ Apr 1 2013, 03:12 PM)

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 1 2013, 08:10 PM

Yes. That's not stock from any year 9 1 4 (trying to bypass the April Fools Filter) and probably is not good news...

--DD

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 1 2013, 08:18 PM

QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ Apr 1 2013, 09:10 PM)

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 2 2013, 09:20 PM

I tried to locate the engine numbers when I was there but I didn't see them. I was in a rush to try to get as much mouse feces out before I had to leave. I'm curious, what is supposed to connect to the hole on the right side of the engine tin that is plugged with foam (circled in red in the pic below).



Also, is the hole in the trailing arm (also circled in the pic below) supposed to be there?

Posted by: rnellums Apr 3 2013, 08:44 AM

The hole in the back of the trailing arm should be there, although it should be round (probably covered with dirt). The hole plugged with foam is for a J-pipe from the heat exchangers, for heating the interior. I believe on 73's there should be a tube running from a fan on the driver's side to that pipe for heat flow while at low rev's.

The pipe as an engine mount bar just implies a poor repair or replacement in the past IMO. It might be less robust than a stock bar though.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 3 2013, 09:03 AM

Thanks very much for your response to my questions. It's nice to know there's one hole on the car that is supposed to be there .

Below are the additional pics I took of the engine. There is a blower fan that is connected to a hose that goes to the tins on the left side. So, I guess I'll have to look and see if there is an opening on that blower housing for another connection.

From looking at the pics, can anyone say for sure that this is a 914 engine (and not one from a Bus)? When I found out that the engine support bar was incorrect I became more concerned that it's not even a correct 914 block. [attachmentid=378
613][attachmentid
=378617][attachmentid=378618]


Attached image(s)

Posted by: rnellums Apr 3 2013, 09:09 AM

Bus heads would not have the exhaust ports on the bottom of the engine, so they are at least 914 heads. You could check the case serial number to be sure it matches up, though I am not sure what the serial should be for a 1.7. Everything attached to the engine looks correct for a 73 1.7 to my eye.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 3 2013, 03:05 PM

The 1972+ Buses used Type IV engines with the exhaust ports on the bottom of the heads. The earlier ones had Type-I style heads with the exhaust ports on the front and back of the heads.

Check for a dipstick. I didn't notice it in any of the pics, but I didn't see a very clear shot of where it should be, either. It should be just to the left of the oil filler. The buses (and some of the 411/412 cars) had the dipstick inside a funnel coming out of the left-front corner at the bottom of the engine. (Right-rear as it was installed in the Bus/411/412.) Easy to block off the funnel and add the oil filler from a 914, but not as easy to add the dipstick.

An engine number in front of the oil filler (on a 1.7 or 1.8) would make this one from a VW application as well.


The 73-74 cars had a heater blower with a single outlet. The outlet was connected to the driver's side only; the passenger's side J-tube was capped with a plastic cap. The splitter from the 75-76 heater blowers can be fitted to an earlier blower, allowing you to hook up both sides, but it isn't hugely necessary.

--DD

Posted by: doug_b_928 Apr 3 2013, 06:44 PM

Excellent information guys, thank you!

IIRC, the dip stick is just to the left of the oil filler. I checked my pics to see if I have a better one, but don't. Though, I think it can barely be spotted in the circle in the pic below

Posted by: doug_b_928 Sep 8 2013, 10:54 AM

Yesterday I removed the fuel pump and tank for the first time. The pump was re-located to under the tank above the gravel guard. It actually fits quite well there. The tank looks to be in good shape. I'll clean and re-seal it next spring.

A couple of questions:

1. I took some pics and noticed in one that a suspension plate looks a little funny. Is the plate in the pic below separating, or is it supposed to look like that? This is the rear right side and the car is jacked up from the front right in this picture.



2. What is the ribbed black plastic piping in the pic below for? It wasn't attached to anything.

Posted by: dlee6204 Sep 8 2013, 11:32 AM

1. What you're looking at are stacked shims between the suspension console mount and the trailing arm. These are used to set the rear camber correctly.


2. The black ribbed piping is the drain hose for the fresh air box that sits under the cowl.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Sep 8 2013, 05:19 PM

Excellent info, thanks Doug!

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 8 2013, 06:00 PM

QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Sep 8 2013, 10:32 AM)

Posted by: doug_b_928 Sep 8 2013, 06:11 PM

My guess is a bent chassis. The right rear is about 1/2-3/4" higher than the left at the tail light. I think the car was hit on the left side at some point. The left rear wheel wobbles.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Sep 10 2013, 09:00 AM

I just had a look. There appear to be 3 spacers on the left side and 6 spacers on the right side. The car is higher on the right side. Does this given any indications as to whether the problem is a bent suspension vs a bent chassis (I realize it could be both)? I find it odd that there are more spacers on the right and the car sits higher on the right. I would have thought that the extra spacers on the right would be compensating for the car being lower on the right. But I don't have an understanding of how alignment would work on a bent chassis.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Sep 11 2013, 06:57 AM

Bump for any thoughts on this.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Sep 11 2013, 07:15 AM

Something amiss. I'd look for some fairly obvious body damage with that many shims.

Posted by: jimkelly Sep 11 2013, 07:24 AM

I will simply say this - don't UNDER ESTIMATE the time and money rust repair can require. some have spent up to $10k on rust repair alone.

I would say, if you find substantial rust, do yourself a BIG favor and find a good tub and move all the parts over.

chances are you will be replacing or rebuilding far more parts then your currently realize.

and I will say this, IMHO, any full or mild resto should begin with a completely stripped down and sand blasted (or soda blasted) tub.

all the best.

jim

Posted by: rick 918-S Sep 11 2013, 07:59 AM

Suspension pick up points are set with fixtures when the chassis is built. Shims are still required when the suspension is installed but only as a function of tuning the alignment. Over shimming one side is likely due to chassis damage but sometimes due to trailing arm twist. Also bushings and the inner mounting holes wear. Instead of fixing the worn bushings or mounting hole shims sometimes become the repair of choice.

When taking the car apart examine all these. It will make a big difference when reassembly takes place.

Posted by: jimkelly Sep 11 2013, 08:11 AM

hole - yes


Attached image(s)

Posted by: rick 918-S Sep 11 2013, 08:30 AM

I was referring to the inner mount and bushings Jim but that's interesting. Is that trailing arm kinked just behind the nut?

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jul 26 2014, 11:20 AM

Poking around this morning I found all of this....



...in the left rear wheelhouse longitudinal. The whole thing was packed full. I thought I had removed everything last summer but this was missed. I needed a coat hanger to yank all of it out. There are about a dozen dried mouse carcasses in there . I'll take the pressure washer to it this afternoon. Hopefully I now have most of the mice remnants out of the car.

Posted by: saigon71 Jul 27 2014, 08:15 AM

Sorry to hear the news about the left long Doug. I ran into the same thing on my project after completing the passenger side...the mouse nests and carcasses held a lot of water and caused a lot of damage.

On the bright side, it can be fixed...just took more time as the drivers side wheelhouse is not available from RD.

Good luck & keep us posted.

Posted by: doug_b_928 Jul 27 2014, 07:52 PM

Thanks, Bob. It's good to hear from someone that has gone through it successfully.

Posted by: mepstein Jul 27 2014, 08:19 PM

That's a very rusty car. You will spend thousands of dollars to be get it back. That's doing the repairs yourself. Buying a less rusty running car will be much cheaper. Btdt. Best of luck.