Got my first 914 home last monday...barely had time to look at it becuase of work.... was in rougher shape than the pictures I was sent of it before buying it.
Front glasfibre hood
Rear glasfibre hood
Front GF bumper (cracked)
Rear GF bumper
Old five point harnesses, will be discarded.
Three point belts will be installed (needed to pass Swedish registration)
Rebound adjustable red Koni's front and rear
Springs "140 lb Weltmeister"
Engine overhauled 2001:
Camshaft, unknown spec.
Overhauled heads with new valves and guides
Flywheel lightened 2 kg's
It's a pretty rough looking car but the plan is to get it registered (ex California car, I got it from 914er-teile in Germany)
and then tear it to pieces and do it right, find all rust, fix it and have it resprayed.
Yes, my projects tend to go overboard....
The long term plan is to build my own version of a "914 RS" in the same kind of way as the 964 RS was made. Original looks, a little bit lighter, a little more power, a little better brakes and handling.
Subscribed. Looking forward to watching the resto.
Looks like a nice start. Love white.
.... and to the Quest!
Today's mission was to pull the rollbar and 5 point harnesses from the car.
Was a bit of a chore getting the rollbar out on my own, had to move around the car and wriggle it up between the sills a few mm's at a time on each side.
Tomorrow I'll tackle installing the 3 point belts and do a list of stuff that needs to be fixed to pass the registration check...
Nice! the Rivieras look great on a white car.
Finished the seatbeltinstallation today and cleaned up the rear vinyl pad aswell since it was quite nasty. Did some looking around and this is what I've found to fix so far.
* Brake lights doesn't work....
*High beams doesn't work, no click from the relay when I pull on the stalk
*Washer bottle non existant, will convert to electric pump system.
*Interior light broken
*Instrument lights very weak, probably a few dead bulbs
*Need both rear rubber grommets that hold the top in the trunk
*Left rear wheel hard to turn, probably stuck hand brake...
more to come as I find it...
These cars are worth the work if you like to drive!
Nice Score! Welcome to our Madness!
You seem to be approaching it in a nice systematic order. I love white on 914's. Good luck and keep posting.
Ok, I need to be educated on the warmup and idle behaviour of a Djet 2.0
Mine starts up easily with a little throttle help the first few seconds when cold. Idles around 1000-1200 and after half a minute or so the idle raises to about 2500-3000 and stays there, after 5-10 minutes it slowly decreses down to around 1500.
From what I've read the rising idle untill warm is normal but a but too high.
I couldn't find any vacuum leaks with starterfluid but need to try it again since
I only had a few squirts left in the can.
Ok, it's been awhile since I wrote here.
The car passed the Swedish registration after alot of hassles this spring, the "ex-California, export to Germany and then imported to Sweden" caused some greif and worries but it sorted itself out in the end thanks to help from the Swedish VW/Porsche group that helped with some brake certification documents.
Wasting no time me and a friend tore into the car, cataloging nuts and bolts and small parts in labeled zipbags and soon we had a bare shell.
The shell has been one trip to the bodyshop for some straightening och rust repair, I also had them weld in a rear suspension reinforcement kit from Tangerine.
Currently I'm working on the surface rust in the center tunnel and working my way outwards from there.
Looks like a cool project. More pictures, please.
Looks like you are doing a nice job. Can you post some pics of your car dolly? It looks interesting as I haven't seen one like it before.
I was actually marveling how his garage in Sweden doing a restoration project looks just like all the garages here in the States doing a restoration project...some things don't change anywhere in the world you are!
Looks like you are making some fine progress!
Take your time and do it right the first time, then just
I like that car dolly!
Here's a link (text is in Swedish) for more information about the car dolly but the videos show the princible of it. Its basically jackstands on wheels.
Your garage door caught my eye. Looks like a sub-zero insulated bi-fold door? Something tells me your garage is toasty warm in the winter. Also, is that an LED light that looks like a comp monitor from the rear in one of those pic's? An L-80E 914 might be considered camouflaged in Sweden, no?
I dont know about toasty warm, keeping it around 18 degrees (65F) so I can work without getting to hot, when doing paintwork I usually put it up a bit higher.
You mean my worklight standing on the floor? it's one of these things with a strange megabulb in it, http://biltema.se/ProductImages/35/large/35-9570_l.jpg
Well since she wont be a winter driver anymore the L80E will come off when its time for paint to be replaced with something else.
(the agony of choosing a colour!)
I've updated my homepage with the lastest progress (http://matsgarage.com/)
Here's some questions thats popped up during the hours spend in the garage getting brainwashed by christmas songs on the radio.
I'm thinking of removing the jack concoles on the sills for a cleaner look. Since I dont have the original jack and probably never will get one. Yay or nay from a structural point of view?
The plastic clips the keep the windshield trim in place, are they available to buy somewhere? And the plastic small square things in the top of the windshield frame what are they? drainage canals?
And this is what it looks like under your rear lifting points...
Following with interest..I'm at a similar stage to you with the bodywork. Looks like the body's in pretty good shape. Noticed you got the car from Patrik at 914er-teile.
Best of luck with it.
Thanks for the info about the square plastic pieces Pete, I've been wondering about those for some time now. Today I've spend the morning mediablasting the "floor" under the headlightbuckets, had to build a longer blasting nozzle to get in there effectivly. Found some more rust but it's nothing to big.
And I've sent an order to Restoration Design for two new rear jack points and an E-brake guide panel.
Making good progress.
Regarding the discussion of the holes in the windshield frame; this is a picture of my 914/6 with a ski rack. The front bar fit the holes in the windshield frame. The rear bar was attached with screws into threaded holes under the rollbar.
The pictures aws taken in Bertschesgarten, Germany during the winter of 1972/73.
ooooh nice picture, I'd love to try my 914 in snow some time, (snow...not salt)
New panels from Restoration Design welded on today....
Lots of updates done in the last month.
Stuffs happening still but as I work out of town during the weeks I only get a fewhours of work done each the weekend. I've finally decided on the colour for
the car to be resprayed in but I'll keep that to myself for now.
Also scored some nice new stuff like a set of 15x7 Cookie cutters and a set of heat exchangers in very good condition.
Still need to order every rubber part known to mankind from 914rubber and a set of carpets etc...
Edit: and yes I ran out of primer...
Undercoat went on yesterday, car will be white again but with a more modern white than the Light Ivory original colour.
Edit: pic was way to big, no sure why it didnt resize....
Looking good !!!!!
Got a tip from my cousin on a guy that could mediablast and powdercoat so today I've dropped off the following to him for refurbishment.
2x front A-arms
Rear reinforcement rods (Tangerine kit)
Rear suspension arms
Should be done within a couple of weeks.
I like your rotisserie, making great progress.
Freshly painted parts.
First paint has happened! Ok its only "B-surfaces" like trunks, engine compartment etc. but still...
Headlight lids had 2-3 layers of paint, had to scrape it off before mediablast and primer.
Scored two 15" Fuchs, sadly they're 8" wide so I'll try to swap them for two 7"
Picked up some small parts from powdercoat aswell.
Got it home from the paintshop last night...winter is saved.
A few more pictures of the fresh paint
And some parts went out for surface treatment on friday.
Very nice- Keep up the good work.
This weekend was 2 steps forwards and then 1½ backwards...
Glued the races for the front A-arm bushings on the A-arms on friday in preparation for
mounting the front suspension on saturday. Got the parts back from surface treatment
early saturday and proceded to mount the ball joints on the Aarms. Left went fine....right went....wtf is this!
Aaaah of course, another trace of the hit to the front right corner that some PO never fixed correctly. Getting another A-arm is managable, will cost me about $150 to get one and get it mediablasted and powdercoated. Sadly tho the bearing races are stuck to the old one and not coming off. I've emailed Elephant racing hoping to purchase a pair of loose races.
Annoyed with this I started on the rear suspension arms instead, drilled
and tapped the holes for the grease nipples, and my M6 thread tap broke off in the last hole.... I left Mr Murphy in the garage and called it a day at that point...
Perfection when seen by mere mortals is a humbling revelation.
Thank you.....but its really far from perfect.
New front right A-arm on the way from Germany and Elephant Racing are sending two new bearing races. Now I just need to squeese into the powdercoaters schedule
and get some paint on the new part.
Looks great! Maybe one day my 74 will be as clean. Keep up the good work.
Some trial assembly today.
If you used JB weld or other such metal epoxy, heating evenly with a torch should melt the epoxy & allow to be pulled off. Check with Elephant though. I used the Rebel Racing Bushings, and this is what they recommend. I didn't have to remove mine, but the instructions that came with the bushings gave this advice.
Got the last painted parts home today.
Anyone that can spot something missing in this picture...
-6 engine mount
I was more thinking of the missing fuel line hole... oh well I'll just drill a new one.
I was thinking it was the clutch tube hole.
Been some work done the last weeks and I made a Christmas special catchup post on my website so I'll just post a link to that since I'm to lazy to rewrite it all again.
Merry Christmas and a happy new 2015 to you all.
How did I miss this thread? Subscribed & nice work
Yes, great thread, and I missed it as well. Great work, Mats, and best of luck with your car. Merry Christmas!
Just found this thread (coming from the carpet thread). What a great job!
Watched PMB's video on rear caliper overhaul and proceded to take mine apart, turns out they must have been overhauled at some time during the cars lifespan.
Pistons were like new underneath the torn dust caps. Seal surfaces between the halfs were still nicely gold coloured. I'll replace the piston seals and dustcaps and reassemble and paint them black with some high temp paint.
Got the last pieces for the pressure side of the fuel pump.
First piece of carpet installet. I chose to mount them with doublesided foam tape instead of glueing them in place.
Starting to look ok. But the red handle for the rear heater fan will probably need to be replaced for a new one.
OCD means changing bolts that look alittle sad for new ones despite that noone will ever see them.
Spent a few hours today with putting the rear calipers back together. Again, PMB's video made it alot easier.
You can sand and buff that red knob and make it look like new.
Hey....can you hurry and finish this project?
I've got an ivory white 914 that I'm working on as well.
Trying to get some ideas from your work.
Looks great and keep up the good work.
And keep warm up there in Sweden during your winter.
Is it just me or shouldnt the cone on the clutch cable face towards the firewall pipe?
Nice job on the fuel pump mount.
Rear brakes and hardlines mounted
Engine decklid painted (the black pieces) and mesh grille installed with new rubber lining.
Lower and upper front targa seal installed.
Glued the top vinyl in aswell.
I'm starting to get close to the point to start dismantling the tins from the engine and fix it up cosmetically. (I will not be splitting the case or removing the heads etc)
I want to hang the engine from my engine stand but I dont have the yoke, I've seen some hang it up anyway while others say not to do it without the yoke.... Paying €300 for a yoke I'll use once isnt in my budget at the moment...
What's the wisdom of the forum?
Got my dash back from the upholsterer....sooo smooth!
Closeup, he had to lay one seam to either side of the bulge and one across the top but it turned out great. He also did the lower piece but I didnt get any pics of that.
Also got my fresh air box back together. Used some 15x5 mm straight foam cell adhesive strips to seal the motor against the housing and the rest of the seals are from 914Rubber's airbox rebuild kit. Not sure why I cant get the box to clean up, annoying with one half looking ok and the other half looking dirty.
Now I'm just waiting for my electrical harness to be finished being refurbished by Kroon Wire Harnesses. They have replaced all the crimped on connectors and exchanged some damaged wires. If you need help with your wiring harness I recommend them warmly. http://www.kroonwireharnesses.com/site/About_us.html
I love that dash! Nice.
Doors have been added, panel gaps are ok on the passenger side and slightly off on the drivers side, will just have to live with that or get a less molested driver side door.
And I can reveal a bit about how the car will be decorated later on...
More parts back from powdercoat, the pile on the right failed pre paint inspection and needs some attention
...there were cracks....
Trying to align the hood, the new front bulkhead seal seems to be too tall for the
GRP hood as it make the middle of it bulge up out of alignment....
The blackstriped electrical snake...
New fuse panel (yes it was painted black before it was installed)
Airbox went back in after the harness slithered into place.
Along with the flapper valves and hoses.
Slowly coming together, the plastic face on my left gauge has a defect in it, needs to be sorted at a later date.
And on sunday I tried to release the magical smoke, I failed.
Still working on installing all the electrical stuff back into the car but it felt like a major
step to have the lights light up again.
Your car is coming along very nicely. Keep posting pictures please.
Dash and face look amazing. You're going to love that....and hate it when any dust gets on it. Alcantara is a bitch to keep clean.
....but I'm doing the same thing in mine, so who am I to judge!
great thread. Very nice work
Since last update lots of small stuff has been completed.
New fuel pump wiring installed.
Rear glass and seat belts rollers installed.
Fuel system completed up to the Engine bay.
Engine bay rubbers installed, teedious!
Front end starting to look complete. The new seal for the bulkhead is a Little to tall for my lightweight hood, not sure what to do about that just now...
I've also been on a Swedish 914 meet, in total 6 914's where 4 was drivable and two under restoration. This one is a factory GT!
The drivers...totally worth driving 4 hours one way to see these cars in the flesh.
Trying some different layouts of my decals.
I like the bottom one!
Bottom one looks best to me too!
You are making some great progress, really enjoying this thread. I really like white on a 914!
How far are you local 914 experts from the 914/6 located in southern Sweden, near the border....seems southwest of Stockholm?
Any local guys who might want to go take a look at it for the community and post your findings?
There is a thread on the main page here regarding a 914/6 sportomatic for sale....its that car.
Thats about 4 hours one way from me but very close for the host of the 914 meet I posted from above. Ill make contact with them and ask them to look at the sportomatic thread.
Love the dash, how did they do that?
I'm not quite sure how he did it but I've dashed the lines where there are seams done and the continus line there we filled the cavity with a high density foam and stretched the fabric over the foam to produce a smooth surface.
Looking real good. I love the look of fresh rubber amd interior parts on fresh paint!
Nice! But what's with the other edges of the cams? It looks as if they are not smooth! Or am I wrong?
There's some minor burrs from the lasercutting, I'll smooth that down before I do the final assembly...
Lookin' good Mats.
I like the stripes with the Martini on the angle (middle one).
It will look great whatever you choose.
Keep up the great work.
sorry for spamming almost the same pics but I'm just soo really pleased with how the stripes are turning out on the car...
I like the stripes a lot.
Dig the stripes. Very Martini!
Got an hour in the garage last night and got the old crank seal pulled out, measured the crank axial play with 3x0,34 mm schims in place and got 0,1-0,11 mm of play so that should be ok. Put in a new seal and torqued everything up.
I know the pressure plate looks crap but its just surface rust, both clutch and pressure plate only have a few thousand miles on them according to the receipts I got with the car.
Familiar sight! That's what I was looking at only a few weeks back. Have a good look at the flywheel.
BTW, I like the look of the braided hoses/sleeves over the thick wire on the background! Looks classy.
About the Martini striping: are you going to add the word Martini as well, or will you keep it like this? I would have considered adding the word, but when I look at the car 'as is', I am not so sure. The stripe logo is so iconic!
While torquing the inner nut with the rear sway arm in the horizontal position I just had to see if I had clearance with the 7x15 Cookiecutter and my 195-55-15 Nankang NS-2R tires and it seems to fit perfectly.
Looks fantastic! Keep posting these pics
really really nice build, Has that techno clean look going on.
New battery holder lasercut, bent and welded up. Still unsure where to position the battery tho. Either the stock location or lower down on the passenger firewall.
With that height for your battery box, you may have to mount it much lower to be able to remove the battery, stock boxes much lower side walls.
If not in the stock location, may not be possible given the height of your battery, then the lower in the car the better. Car is looking very nice BTW.
Dave: they're not carbs they're IDF pattern throttle bodies with injector ports (the round holes visible below the stacks) The stacks themselves will eventually be switched to taller full radii stacks.
Great thread and great work.
I was wondering that myself.
Looks like crankfire and ITB's What are you going to use? Microsquirt or was it already set up when you got the car.
Can you tell us about the induction system and ignition you plan on using?
I'm using a crank trigger and minicam sync from Mario @ thedubshop.net
He also sells the ITB's I have but I bought mine from the UK.
For fuel and spark I will be using 4 LS2 coils and a set of 350 cc Bosch injectors from a Saab 9-5 Aero.
All this will be driven by a swedish developed EFI system called Maxxecu, its kinda like Megasquirt but a but more "coherent" if that makes any sense....not alot of addons needed instead its all included in one package. Onboard wideband, E85 ready, bluetooth built-in etc. ( http://www.maxxtuning.eu/maxxecu/ )
Future wise the goal is to build a new 2276 longblock with around 10:1 compression running E85. The whole fuel system has been replaced using Chris's stainless lines and E85 compatible Gates hoses.
Well today I installed the Tangerine shift adjuster and the shift rods. Since I've never really driven my car much I dont remember how it should feel, Shifts are a bit notchy and stiff but at least I can find all the gears.
New sparkplugs going in.
ECU in place
Battery in place
and then....there's the wiring......Yay!
Getting the dash top in place and putting the plastic nuts in place is a dream job...not.
Got some Vintage Gold plastidip on the remaining Cookies aswell. Thinking of trading my set of 3 Fuchs for a set of BBS RS or Mahles.
Very cool!! You are making me miss my old car!
No the plastidip is quite easy.
Degrease your wheels and mask off any area you dont want to paint.
First layer goes on very very thin, allow it to dry for 5-10 minutes.
Second layer goes on normally thick, it wont cover everything yet.
Again let dry for about 5 minutes.
Third layer should cover the base surface completely, fourth layer goes on pretty much just after the third has dried alittle. Remove the masking while the paint is wet (just be carefull) There's plenty of youtube videos showing the process. The paint will peel off easily if you're not happy with it, just find an edge and pull.
ok....so how bad is a wobbly exhaust stud on the #3 cylinder?
Engine out, apart and repair bad or buy a new head bad?
Kinda lost my momentum when I noticed this earlier.....
After sleeping on the issie I've decided to finish all the ECU wiring before I pull the engine to get the exhaust stud fixed. That way pulling the engine will feel like a bit of a reward for finishing the wiring.... (yeah I'm wierd like that....)
Probably the easiest solution would be to drill and tap for an oversize exhaust stud. There are 8/9 mm ones, and I think 8/10 mm ones as well. I'd bet that Mittlemotor carries them.
Today I pretty much finished up running the lines for the oilcooler and got to see the front end assembled for the first time. The bottom valance is kinda screwed up from being patched a few times but it'll do for now. Eventually I'll get a replacement one.
I also got some adapters for the ITB's, they'll let me use any IDF style air filter.
Also got the LS2 coils and made a bracket for them.
Looking really good there....
Engine harness routing
Wires wires and more wires....
WB O2 connector.
Wow excellent work on that wiring harness!!!
Nice build, man! I really like your vision for the car and the way you’re putting it all together. You should be well pleased with yourself.
Looks stunning! Keep posting this sort of pics! I really like 'em.
Was the 914 meet at Niklas Ekström home near Malmo?
He has some nice rolling stock.
That's correct, he's got a nice little aircooled and watercooled fleet.
I have a similar build to yours in process.
Classy, very classy.
I have nothing to match that - only perhaps that I wish you all a Merry Christmas from a blowtorch hot (!) part of Europe. No need for winter tires!
Looks good Mats, when will you fire it up?
Maybe I could come over and take a closer look if you are around over christmas and the New year.
Houston, we have cranking rpm...
Got some work done today. Pulled the intakes off, removed the plugs and checked the plug gaps. All good. Proceeded to mount the oil filter, fill the engine with oil.
Then I built a remote start switch and hooked it up. *drumroll* It cranks!
Nice with a built-in oscilloscope in the tuning software.
Oil pressure is up.
And today I also verified that I have spark on all four cylinders and that my timing light was dead on arrival. Waiting for new intake gaskets before I can button everything up again.
Oh and the engine harness was finished today. Wired up the E85 flexfuel sensor and
cut and tucked the last remaining spare input/output wires.
Granted firing it up revealed a few issues to be solved.
1. The new hi torque starter doesnt disengage quick enough, you can hear the slight whine in the beginning of the video till it disengages.
2. Turning the key off doesnt kill the engine, it keeps running and I have to kill it via the laptop interface to the ecu. I'm not sure why this happens.
This is how I've hooked up the ecu, switched power from the post on the relay board to a separate relay that controls the power to the ECU.
3. Third issue is an oil leak from the left side valve cover. Suck having to pull the heat exchanger down to get access and fix it. Do I need to drain the oil before removing the valve cover?
Your first two issues could be caused by a single thing. There might be something feeding back into the switched power circuit. I've done that by putting the wrong type of bulb into the taillights, for instance.
You don't have to drain the oil, or remove the exhaust, to replace the valve cover. There might be a little oil in the rocker box, but the "resting" level of the oil in the crankcase is below the bottom of the rocker box.
And there will be even less oil if you jack up just one side of the car.
Glad to hear it fired up and it looks very nice too
Way cool on your first start up. The independent injection is something I'm looking into as well. Does the crank sensor and wheel work well? I was under the impression that the sensor had to be mounted on the outside edge of the wheel.
Av Tors hammare, är din 914 ett konstverk.
Started tackling the oil leak today. On inspection I saw that the left valve cover was pushed upwards, probably happened when I pushed the spring in place.
I also took down the starter motor hoping to find a reason for it squealing a bit when the engine starts but I couldnt find anything. I put the starter in my vice and hooked it up to a spare battery and it runs flawlessly.
Here's a clip of benchtesting the starter.
Here's a clip of the engine start efter putting the starter back on the car.
Any ideas on how to fix the annoying squealing noise?
The last few weeks has been spend fixing issues found after getting the engine to start reliably. The biggest hurdle was the throwout bearing.
Last weekend the gearbox came out and I ordered a new throwout bearing and all the associated small parts.
While waiting for the parts to arrive i cleaned up the seats. They need to be recovered eventually but for now the California patinated cracked and torn vinyl will have to do. This passenger seat is the better of the two.
I also cadded up some baseplates for the new velocity stacks and had them lasercut at work. A good friend of mine got them welded up tonight.
For my birthday earlier this week I also had a package arrive that I ordered about a month ago. Two custom front mats with the Martini Racing colours.
Well, what can I say... Going through all those pages with pic, I can only conclude that we share one thing: same sort of plastic storage boxes on the shelf...
Kidding aside: I think that you Martini Racing 914 is by far the nicest of the bunch. Keep those pics coming!
Are the Martini logo floor mats off ebay? If yes, how is the quality?
Gearbox back up and the annoying whining noise is gone. Sweet!
It's really coming together nice Mats. I look forard to seeing video of you driving around!!
Thanks Nate, its not far off now but we've gotten snow again so i'll have to wait a little bit more.
After being knocked out with the flu for the past week I finally got some garagetime today. Changed the oil and filter and did some other small jobs. Then I just couldnt wait any longer.... and down it came. I love how small and nible it becomes when its back on the ground. Now spring needs to hurry up and arrive up here!!
A milestone day for the Martini Racing car!
The car looks and sounds great
Way to go I really like the front valence on your car. It has to feel good to take it even for a short drive after so long.
very nice... super job and congrats on a fantastic milestone
Yesterday was the big dyno day.....and it ended in failure.
Upp towards 5000 rpm the engine makes a bad noise and then starts puking oil from the righ hand side valve cover.
I've never driven the car that hard before I started the restoration so its all news too me. Any ideas as to what the noise could be?
I had hopes I would be starting to be able to drive my car in a week or so, feeling very deflated at the moment.
dammit! I was so excited and was just hoping the disappointment was because you didnt make as much power. Hope its nothing too troubling
It wasnt overfilled, had the oil level at the top mark.
Pulled the plugs and they look ok to me.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bu05qkitwwhod ... 0.jpg?dl=0
Cylinder 1 to the left and 4 to the right.
Did a compression test and got some varying results: 8,5/10/8/10,5.
Average value of 9,25 +/- 10% on that would give the range 8,3-10,2 so slightly outside of a 10% variation.
It's hard to tell from the video as my speakers suck, but it almost sounds like a valve issue. I was watching your first drive video and since it was in March it looks like the emissions from the exhaust pipe was just steam and I didn't here the horrible sound. Do you still have sound after the dyno run? Not sure on these little engines (but in a V8) I would certainly consider that you may have floated a valve.
Good luck and keep us posted. Hope it isn't all that serious. I have been following your build and the car is beautiful....It would be a real shame to have to do a complete engine.
Sorry to hear you have engine problem, lets hope it can be easily fixed
You may have a weak valve spring which at high RPM is floating a valve. I would do another compression check though and see what that comes out to. Definately don't want to drive it hard until you can track down the problem, if you drive it at all.
Have the valves been adjusted to be sure they are correct? Sorry, without being there to actually hear the sound it is making it is hard to nail down what it might be, so I am just throwing out ideas.
Any update on your unfortunate engine issue?
Havnt had much garagetime but I've pulled the engine tins and measured the compression again with slightly better results now that I can see what I'm doing. Going to borrow a leakdown gauge and check that too. I've checked the valve clearances and they are ok. Oil was fine, no particles of any kind in it. Changed the valve cover gaskets. Found that the shrink wrap on my spark plug temp senders had melted so I've ordered new ones with a better spec.
Well that was fun.....
Just did a leakdown test, it should be done with the engine warm but that wasnt an option at the moment.
Cylinder 1: 15% - most of the air going into the crank case
Cylinder 2: 11% - most of the air going into the crank case
Cylinder 3: 40% - most of the air passing the inlet valve
Cylinder 4: 13% - most of the air going into the crank case
Now spot the offender.....
When one door slams shut in your face you break out the wallet and smash down a wall.....
Engine is out of the car, heads are off, cant see anything wrong with them.
So screw this....I'm going big!
Thanks Rayne...I figured that if I did a top end overhaul I'd still have a bottom end that I had no idea of the condition of. So...breaking out my spare 1.7 and sending it off to get a bit bigger. 2-3 months waiting time tho so this summer is sadly quite screwed.
Oh well there's Always beer...
Oh yeah, one of these will go into my Engine...probably the right hand one
(Photo Jacob Spring @ GBOT)
Sorry about the leak down results, Matt. 40% is huge. I'm surprised it didn't reveal itself once the heads were off. Was the head making good contact with that jug? Even if you dropped a ring or spaced them wrong I wouldn't expect 40% leak down! Regardless, good luck with your new build and do let us know what you find wrong with the old one. Kent
Well while the engine is still being built my mate Pontus and I decided to tackle the paint.
First polish and wax since it was painted about 18 months ago. What a difference it made! The downside of the polishing is that all the imperfections in the paint are much easier to spot and there are a few....
First pass was made using a fine medium-fine pad and a coarse compound, seconds pass using a fine pad and fine compund. All of the Rupes brand including the machine. Good stuff!
While I'm waiting for the motor to be done I'm fixing small issues...
The light weight front hood kit I bought from Camp914 has never been working properly, the struts were too weak to hold the hood up so I finally got tired of it and set to fixing it.
Moving the hinge bracket to this location gives it a much better angle to hold the hood up. Drilled new holes and mounted the bracket with M5 countersunk screws and nyloc nuts.
Tadaa! No more shamefull broomshaft to hold the hood up.
Another thing thats been bugging me is the brake pedal feel. I suspected I hadnt gotten all the air out of the brake pressure valve.
One 12 inch steel braided brake hose with male M10x1 in each end later and I can bleed the valve easily with two M10 bleed nipples on it, remount it on the firewall, reattach the hardlines and then bleed the rear calipers as normal. For apparent reasons I havnt driven the car yet but the pedal feels firmer.
195/55-15 on a 7x15 rim is a bit wide for the front trunk board to fit in place.
Spare wheel from a 944 will have to do.
And a small side project for my garage as SWD didnt want it in the livingroom.
New parts from 914rubber arrived today, the new front trunk seal, heater valve hoses, raintray hoses, trunk targa cups and the door jamb vents.
Fit and finish was perfect. Good job Mark!
could you measure the gas struts and see what the writing on the side says for how many kilos its supposed to hold please ?
Way to go. Nice to knock off items like that. Car is looking very nice.
New engine was started and run in today by the engine builder.
Nice "recovery" Mats from your previous bad luck with the engine. Sounds great!
those little touches go VERY far on older cars! How big is this big four going to be?
It's a 78 stroke and 96 bore so 2276. Should give at least 150 hp.
Looking forward to more pics and details
Previously I had the ignition coils mounted on an aluminium bracket sitting ontop of the engine. But I didnt like the cluttered look of it with all the connectors attached.
So now I'm mounting the coils on the rear wall of the engine bay. Using aluminium M6 rivnuts to attach the coils to the sheet metal.
That look is better!
Are you mapping for ethanol content changes? It looks like you have a Continental flex fuel sensor mounted on the suspension console.
Almost crate opening time!
Well as some of you know I've had issues with how my 2270 engine was built so today it was sent back to the builder to be fixed. But here's some nice pics from this spring when I drove around the block with the stock 2.0 for the first time with all the panels on, the only thing missing is the doorcards.
Also got Spokes front LED in white/amber waiting to go on but I'll wait with mounting those untill the car has been inspected and passed the "mot" test.
Looks great! Ant wait to find out what the builder discovers.
Car absolutely looks great.
The stripes really work with the white background and lack of badging on the car.
Once you get that engine finished up and installed, you'll be "back in business" again.
Keep up the great work Mats!
Good to see you have the engine, Mats. All worked out fine ?
Today we made some noise and got the idle and low revs tuning set up good enough to ba able to put it onto a trailer and eventually take it to the tuners.
Need to check the #3 cylinder temp sensor because it wasnt following the #1 cylinder sensor at all temperature wise....
Hey Mats, happy new year to you. Good to see this small video. That exhaust sounds good !
Amazing T4 build and perfect Livery...now in the mood for a martini/ Grey goose please
Love the period inspection stickers.
Sorry if this is a repetitive request:
Can you post the details of the induction that you are running?
Pulled of the passenger side intake manifold to get the the #3 spark plug.
Removed the culprit temo sensor and I've sent it back to the vendor to hopefully be exchanged.
Very happy with the Scart muffler, the fit against the heater boxes was spot on, unlike the old Bursch snake pit that needed alot more effort to put in place.
Well I got my faulty CHT sensor replaced and this weekend I've been running the engine on low revs and letting it heat up properly to check that both the air flap thermostat and oil cooler thermostat opens as they should. I've also verified that when the ecu sends 0 degrees ignition thats what the engine gets, also checked that the 27 degree mark lines up with the ignition locked to 27 degrees. Also been working on syncing the itb's as best I can with a synchrometer. The resulting airflow ended up at (6) (5) (5.5) (5.5) at 1000 rpm idle.
Over the next few days I'm going to drain the fuel tank to replace it with fresh fuel since the fuel thats in it has been sitting since may last year.
No heat baffle above the muffler?
Maybe I missed that part of the thread.
Slowly working thru my pre dyno checklist, draining the old gas from last years dyno attempt and will replace it with fresh fuel. The old fuel I put into the wifeys Saab and then I still had about 25 liters left so I had to call a friend over to put those in his car since I had no place else to put it.
Then onto the issue with the missing heat shield. I took a few measurements and drew one up in Solidworks, bought some 2 mm sheet of aluminium and then bribed the laser boys at work that cut the shape for me. Did the bend myself at home between two screwed together 2x4's. Using the rear sway bar holes as mounting points Then I will also add a couple of connections to the lower bumper mounting bolts aswell to keep it from rattling around.
I see the Scart mufflers are made in France: are they available as one in the USA ?
And, beautiful build, thanks for sharing.
Looks really good. I was a part of LPR and GGR back in the day. Don't remember this car, but there were many back then.... Great to see it your hands.
Question: Should I paint the heat shield silver (high temp paint) or keep it bare aluminium?
Bare is easiest. It shouldn't corrode, and even high-temp paint isn't perfect.
Whooohoo ! I won a €500 Euro gift certifiqate to one of the local Tools/garage equipement shops for being voted "Project of the month". Will use it towards a new Tig welder. Perfect in time for my birthday.
Interesting. I'd never heard of Kemppi, and saw a ton of their machines in a Polish shop which was what made me curious since they seemed to really like them.
The one you got looks pretty nice! It looks like it has all of the pulse, balance, and taper features you want to weld aluminum. Congratulations again!
Congrats on a very nice build and the new welder.
Hi Mats ! Looking sharp. at least you already drove your 914, even though it was a short trip. Engine running fine ?
Congrats Mats, very nice build. thanks for sharing. Best, Mark
Thank you Stephen and Mark.
Today I started setting up a digital dash on the small tablet I bought last summer to use in the car. I will also use it for navigation and to hold my favorite Spotify playlists.
(please ignore the top right temp sensor saying pressure sensor, havnt found where to edit that text yet)
Had to try a shot from the rear with the interior garage lights off. Not sure I will have it up there. Working on a solution to have it sit below the dash instead.
And this is the current weather, just below freezing and snowing. I'm kinda digging the look without the rear valance (correct word?) I might leave it off for awhile to flaunt my pretty silencer.
The car looks great! I really like the narrow cars with the oil cooler opening. Can't really go wrong with the Martini livery. Nice job!
On the drivers side rear its barely that I get one of my fingers (tiny fingers) between the tire and fender lip, on the passenger side I have a little more space so I can easily but my finger between the tire and lip.
I RECOMMEND THAT YOU NOT PUT YOUR FINGERS BETWEEN THE TIRE AND BODY WHILE THE CAR IS IN MOTION!
Looks so nice. Wish I could see it in person
Does anyone want to know what it sounds like when its run in anger?
Anyone want to guess the engine hp?
2276, 10:1 compression, Web 86 b/c cam, 40 mmm ITB's and stock 2.0 heaterboxes.
What is going on with that graph? I will happily buy your numbers (158 HP/158 lb-ft torque) but that graph is showing over 200 lb-ft and the torque doesn't cross the HP at 5250 RPM!
Ah, crap! I missed the units on the graph!
*hangs head in shame*
Mats....158x158. Perfect square numbers for a "boxer" engine. Should be a hoot to drive. Nice job!
Great build thread!!!
I hope mine are half as good when I get to them!
48 hours of happiness was all I got. Noticed a leak under the car and figured it was the tuna can that had seeped a bit more oil after the dyno day. Smelled the oil....transmission oil....
Input shaft seal is leaking. AT least it seems to be replaceable without opening the transmission. Figures it would start leaking as I've already changed the gear selector shaft seal and have the double o-ringed speedo drive unit.
Oh well down in the garage after dinner. 1 hour and 32 minutes and the gearbox was out of the car..
Hi Mats, too bad a 2$ part (seal) caused this to your nice work, at least you got some wrench-time out of it ! :-)
Good luck with the fix !
Ordered two new input shaft seals today. Is there a good DIY guide to pulling the old one and installing the new one somewhere? Prefered tools?
There are special picks to do the job, a bit like a hook that is jammed in the seal, and then is pulled out, of course this destroys the seal, but you will never re-use it anyway. I know some people scew in a screw and use that to pull on.
Had a productive last week and weekend.
Gearbox is re-sealed, refilled with Swepco 201 and juggled back into the car. All the surrounding parts mounted and done. Tore down both front struts and changed them for 911 struts with the later ball joint version, got rid of the annoying passenger side balljoint wiggle that would have been a MoT failure. Re-bled the brakes all around.
Then I had one of those Surreal "omg am I really doing this" moments....I put the windshield wipers and sunvisors back in the car. I've had those parts laying around for so long..and now they're on the car.
I'm just an alignment away from being able to get my car road legal!
Drove the car legally on the road today for the first time since 2013.
(trips to and from repair shops are legal even if the inspection due date has expired)
Took it to an alignmentshop about 10 km's from where I live and I could tell on the way there that the front was very toe out.
Once there we started adjusting. Everything went ok except for one thing.
Drivers side rear cannot be adjusted to Toe in, currently it sits at 6 mm toe out, started at 9 mm toe out.
At the moment I'm not sure what is going on.... If its the control arm thats bent or
the outer mount itself thats somehow misaligned.
Wow, 6mm toe out is a lot. Do you have turbo tie rods with the thick washer? It may be as easy as removing the washer.
ITS ROADLEGAL !!!!
After four years of restoration I can now legally drive my car on the road!!
Such a freaking fantastic feeling !
Ok I still need to sort the rear alignment but nevertheless its now ok for two years forwards. The inspection guy told he was a bit dissapointed that the paint was flaking off on the heat exchangers since the rest of the car was so nice. Exhaust CO-value was borderline (4,5% legal limit and it measured 4,4-4,5) but he said he was confident I'd have that fixed untill next time.
Awesome news! Car looks terrific.
Waiting for our turn....
Going for an elevator ride, checking suspension movement, wheel bearings, brakes, rust and everything else. All lights, had to adjust the passenger headlight a bit to get it correct.
Driving home again, the tablet displays my rpm, lambda value, CHT values, fuel trims and anything else I want to see from the ECU.
Took a litle break for some photos before we went home. Still got a silly grin on my face.
wow... Loved keeping up with this build and it is a fantastic looking 914. Congrats on getting it "legal" for the road
Now you just need to drive it like you stole it
Well the nice thing about the inspection is that I got a chance to take a few seconds movie of the car in motion.
I really like how the Cookies turned out.....
Congrats and thank you for the thread.
Congratulations! The cookies look great as does everything.
Yes, thanks for taking us along for the journey.
Congratulations. The whole car looks great. I hope you enjoy driving it as much as we enjoyed reading about it.
Congrats. The car looks beautiful.
Nice work! Inspiring!
Been dealing with the alignment issues for the last three weeks.
No matter how I elongated the mounting holes for the outer bracket I couldnt get toe in.
Weekend two weeks ago I snapped and demounted both rear trailing arms, putting them side to side revealed the left one being 5 mm longer from the pivot axis to driveshaft center. Found the culprit!
Ordered a used trailing arm from Germany, got it friday last week. Tore it apart after work and then drove to my blaster/powdercoat guy an hour away the same evening and got it painted and pretty. Managed to get my spare hub machined for 5 bolts for to use longer studs Got that fixed early this week and tuesday and wednesday I got the suspension back on again.
Today thursday I had booked an alignment, This time I had 4 degrees of toe IN on the rear left wheel. Sucess!! We adjusted it out to 1 mm toe in and that was that.
After lunch today I went for the first extended drive around 80 miles or so.
Once home i celebrated by putting on some new parts I had laying waiting.
*Tarret front drop links to the swaybar went on.
*New targa latch cups in the rear trunk
*Gas dampers for the rear trunk lid
*Spokes front led position/indicator boards
*BBS Mesh copies with new Nokia tires. (long distance driving wheels)
Feeling all set for this saturdays upcoming 500 mile roadtrip.
Well done Mats.
I'll bet you're happy to have this alignment issue behind you finally.
Just the wide open roads to enjoy your car now.
Congratulations. Sounds like you have a fun weekend trip planned.
I can't help but scratch my head though. How does a trailing arm become 5mm too long or too short? Was it bent from some prior incident?
Excellent work, Mats. Thank you for posting your build thread.
Could you tell us the specs for your BBS wheels and tires? Thanks.
Stellar build. IIRC, you drove that in the Winter w/o the windscreen. Damn that was cold!
So yesterday was the highpoint of the Swedish 914 year. The annual meeting down in south of Sweden, for the first time I would be bringing my own car that I only finished working on the evening before (fixing the odometer)
I left home at 5:20 am to drive the 255 miles south. Joining me I had my friend Pontus driving his Cayman as a backup/following vehicle.
Since I had barely driven the car the first hour was a bit nervous. It was also quite cold for the season, only 40F when I left so I got to put the heat on to keep warm. Further south there are a couple of long inclines that I was a bit nervous about but the car handled them well just touching 375F at the top of the hills.
About 20 minutes out from arrival we stopped for fuel just to be sure, I know my engine is running quite rich (lambda 0.9) and it got around 25 mpg on that part of the trip keeping an everage speed around 100 km/h.
It was a very nice feeling driving into the small farmhouse courtyard to joing the other 914's attending. All of Sweden has an estimated number of 150 914's where probably 50 are being used every year.
So the meet managed to have 7 driving cars and one project attending. Among the visitors there was at least three whose cars were not finished or not running, hopefully we'll break into double figures next year.
It was a great day, meeting old familliar face and learning a few new ones and seeing a few cars I'd only seen images of before.
All in all it was a great day, my first major trip in the car and it handled the 510 miles great. I was pretty tired getting home tho so next year i'll probably split the driving over two days.
Yesterday was the first ever slalom even for me with this car. I felt very rusty and had
some trouble with the 180 degree turn trying both a tight and a wide line. Only four cars in my class and when I headed home I was still the fastest in my class.
Looking good Mats.
Your car looks well up.
Certainly corners nice and flat.
Had a little bit of fun last night...
Your car looks great. Enjoyed both of your videos. It's an excellent build!
Well since last time things have been pretty smooth...mostly...but more on that later.
Spokes front LED's are great, cant recommend them enough.
Been to a few local car shows and have gotten great response to the car. Always nice to get some appreciation when you've worked hard to make it a good car.
I designed this badge in Solidworks. It's basically a 1988 911 3.2 badge that I switched around. A friend 3D printed it for me and its got two strong magnets countersunk into the backside.
I finished the surface with a 1200 grit wet and dry paper and then painted it silver. Turned out pretty nice.
I've had this faint whining noise from the gearbox since the start of the season. Sadly its getting louder and driving home from the autocross last night its really noticeable.
So the season might get quite short as I dont want to risk a total failure.
I've started investigating someone who can rebuild my gearbox. The good thing is that all the gears go in easy without crunching so the synchros should be ok.
Looks like a great area for a 914. Thanks for sharing the car and the pictures. Jim.
Hi Mats. Great job on the badge ! Nice custom touch.
Have fun and good luck on the gearbox rebuild.
Greetings from Holland
I got a set of 914 Rubbers H4 headlights lenses and H4 LED bulbs in the mail last week and I've been waiting for a few non rainy evenings to try them out and compare with the stock sealed beam units that came on my ex California car.
This is the sealed beam on low/dipped beam. Quite short range.
This is the sealed beam on high beam. Better range of course but still not what I'd call good.
These are the LED H4's on low/dipped beam. The experience is that they are much brighter and light up the road further ahead than the sealed beam low beam did.
These are the H4 LEDs on high beam. I was quite dissapointed as there wasnt much difference from the low beam. As far as I can tell there is no extra range on the high beam and as the light pattern on the ground shows most of the extra light seems to end up close to the car. There was a little more vertical spread in the light but it didnt do much in actual long range light that you want on high beams.
My verdict: The improvement of the low beams makes it worth the upgrade. I wont be driving my car much in the dark so its ok for me. If you do alot of night driving I would try a set of Osram or Philips H4 bulbs too for comparison. (and get separate +12v feeds and relays for the headlights to ensure reliability)
LED low beam from outside the car.
LED high beam from outside the car.
I also shot a two quite shakey movies from my phone while driving the same stretch of road both with the sealed beams and LED's.
I can post the links to them if someone is interested.
LED bulb installed.
Thanks for posting the comparison pics. Is it possible the the low & high beams are wired backward - and they are aimed too low? That might explain your high beam (really the low) hitting the ground so close to the car. Just a thought.
Great story, pics, and build; thanks for sharing.
ive been playing around with this too, and i have rifht now the Osram H4 in the headlights and they are a good bit brighter and more white as you see with the Led, there is the typical difference in the hi va low beam - thanks for putting more "light" on the subject
Beautiful car Mats! Great video's too. What exhaust are you running? Your car sounds great!
The other night when I came back into the garage after a short drive I caught this picture and got a little inspired. That moment after a drive and you turn of the bright garage lights. The silence is only interupted by the ticking noises of the engine beginning to cool down. Automotive nirvana right there.
The 2017 season is offically over. I havnt driven the car very much since late July due to an increasing whining noise from the gearbox. Its most notable when everything is warmed up and you accelerate from a slow speed in high gear.
Passing thru a village and slowing down to 50 kph (30 mph) and then accelerating
back up in forth gear and you can hear an whining noise that is rpm dependant.
So engine and gearbox out. The gearbox was dropped off last week to a semilocal (3 hour drive one way) Porsche engine/gearbox rebuilder thats very highly recommended here in Sweden. Now to play the waiting game and praying that I dont get have to eat porridge for all of 2018 due to the repair bill.
Nice pics on the LED head lights, yes you jump from 3900 to 6000 luemens, but the pattern is overlapped more than I'd like too, but if you look at your picture you can see the sign in the distance better, so it is throwing more light. is it 1/3rd more? Hard to tell with overlap, but I like mine.
Sorry to hear about the trans, but I'd think the repair bill would be limited to the replacement parts and the base cost to crack the trans. Hopefully, since it hasen't truly failed yet. Will be interesting to see why you have the noise.
While I'm waiting for the verdict on my gearbox issues theres nothing that lights up the dark season like some new old parts...
Might have to make myself a triple combi gauge this Winter.
Just got an update from the guy thats got my gearbox and the 4-point bearing was apparently a total loss. Somehow the bearing had started separating, Another bearing was also on its way out along with first and second gear syncros.
Around €1000 in parts and then labor cost ontop of that so probably around 2k € for the whole rebuild.
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