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Posted by: gunny Apr 22 2013, 11:42 AM

I have read several articals about the adjustment and don't have a problem with the proceedure. I have done the same thing on and air cooled Beetle and several motorcycles. My concern is access. I have the car on one ramp with a couple of 2x4s for extrah height. the passanger side is on a jack stand. as best as I can tell all of the access is from the rear over the heat exchangers. Is there any room from the side over the heat exchangers?

I plan on taking my time this being the 1st time on this car. Just looking for any techniques that may help.

Posted by: rmital Apr 22 2013, 12:14 PM

I noticed from your signature line you have a '76....
....the heat exchangers are somewhat different from my '73 to your '76, but not sure it would hinder your access to adjust the valves.

There is enough room there to do the job. Not an excessive amount, but enough.
just get comfortable and go for it.

Posted by: Java2570 Apr 22 2013, 12:58 PM

I have a '74 and find that taking off all the heater ducting helps give a bit more room...I'm not that familiar with what the '76 cars have but it does help me on my car when I adjust valves.

Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Apr 22 2013, 01:48 PM

only from the side. Lay under the car cross ways. head out one side, feet to the other. You need a "pillow" to prop your head up or you'll get a crick in your neck. 1 & 3 intake are the tough ones. Use a very short screwdriver or a dime on those two. I don't remove anything but the valve covers.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Apr 22 2013, 02:07 PM

Come in from the side, not the back. Use a 1 ft. + quarter inch screwdriver and a long feeler gauge (actually, 2, one .006", one .008"). Use Gasgacinch on both the cover and the gasket, air dry both surfaces before assembling them.

The Cap'n

Posted by: Dave_Darling Apr 22 2013, 06:53 PM

I haven't done the job on a 75-76 car with the late style heat exchangers. But on my 74, I get a little better access if I take a wheel off. Just more room to move around in the fender.

I usually get 2 or 3 of the valves by reaching forward along the top of the heat exchanger, and the rest by reaching in forward of the suspension console (the suspension mounting point). I think that even on the forward valves, I still reach in from the back of the car to swing the wrench while loosening or tightening the jam nuts.

I use a deep-offset box end wrench for the jam nuts, it gets the wrench handle out of the way of the rest of the rocker arms and such and stays put on the nut more securely.

A stubby screwdriver is a necessity for several of the valves.

--DD

Posted by: gunny Apr 22 2013, 07:11 PM

Thanks for all of the advice. It only took about 1.5 hours. I already had the car up. It took me about 15 min just to wrestle the valve cover clips off. Then the previous owners shop used valve cover gasket sealer on both sides of the gaskets. Off to auto zone for new ones tomorrow. while the covers were off I cleaned them and painted them with ultra high temp paint.

All of the valves were tight. I couldn't get the .006 in any of the intakes or most of the exhaust. Now all are .006 for intakes and .008 for the exhaust.

As usual the Capt was right, access from the side laying on the creeper with feet going towards the other side. Access is tight but not too bad. I used a washer in the slot to hold while I tightened the nuts. Check check and recheck.

Posted by: jeffdon Apr 22 2013, 07:42 PM

I find that you have to do it a few times to figure out the best way to lay down to get to each set of valves. I also use an old foam camping ground pad so I do not have to get the car too high. It always is a sucky job, but gets better with experience.

Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Apr 23 2013, 04:40 AM

The capn is right. And I must be chopped liver.

Posted by: gunny Apr 23 2013, 06:11 AM

My mistake you are also correct, I got the washer from your dime comment.