My stock 914/4 -72 handles quite well on straight roads but if I turn it into a slight bend where there is any kind of small bump it tends to loose the track, it rattles a bit in the front and comes out in a new track
The front end is all stock except for new Bilstein gas shocks (all around) and quite a bit lowered to (almost) match the rear end where it is sitting a bit.
Thought this would disappear with the new absorbers but sadly it just made a small improvement. Tyres are worn 185/65's on Pedrinis 5½. No sway bars.
What are the first things to check?
/Lars S
Lowered in front, need bump steer kit.
You inner and outer tie rod ends and balls joints could be worn out.
40 year old rubber bushings get wallowed out, causing the rattling.
Rattling is not caused by bump steer.
I have lowered my blue car until the a-arms are almost level and it does not bump steer at all.
Get some (lemforder) turbo tie rods and it will totally take care of the problem.
John
Check your wheel bearings to see if they are tight.
Sounds like bump steer to me too.
if you're going to have an alignment done you'll want the tie rod package and bump steer kit in place or do the alignment twice. if you have a 'pro' do it the second alignment costs will cover the tie rod and end package.
Bump steer kit and tie rods then alignment
show a side picture of the car stance.
If the lower a-arm in front sits out of level, where the ball joint is hinger than the torsion tube....then you need to adjust the car back up just a hair.
Bump steer spacer kits may not be required if you do a few things.
Get the a-arms adjusted properly.
Good bearings, nice and tight
Good tie-rods
Get some toe-in on the front end.
When you just lower the car, it toes out.
That makes it skittish and bump steer is drastically increased.
Simple to check.
Straighten the wheel so both wheels are aiming forward.
Lay a block of wood on the outside of both wheels
Measure from side to side from one block to the other to see if you have alot of toe out.
This is crude because rubber wheels have way to much variation to be accurate, but it should give you a good idea.
I also saw a trick of laying wet newspaper down on the floor in front of both wheels, then gently roll the car over the newspaper.
The car (maybe) will twist the newspaper in the direction of the toe angle...
So, you may not need the bump steer kit.
I dont have one, never did.
I had my car so low the a-arms hit the weld flange in front.
I adjusted the alignment exactly to some toe-in, about 1/8 inch overall to compensate...all it well.
The toe- out is what makes it feel like you are being dragged around from one rut to the next.
Slight toe out is great for autox and quick turn in, but it sucks to drive around town, and it wears the inside edge of the tires out quick.
rich
First, I'd check the camber, caster, and alignment because that could affect your tracking. If okay, move on to inspecting and replacing parts suggested. If not okay, take care of that issue prior to throwing money at parts. Here is a DIY thread discussion on how to check and align: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=202671.
Very simple.
Good luck,
Keith
Thanks everyone!
I have made several toe-in checks on different floors with my home alignment tool; Always the same result the toe in is about 3/8".
The center of the A-arm is about 1½ " lower at the outer end then at the inner.
The tie-rod center is about ½" lower at its outer end than at the inner.
However i just checked the camber which was 0 at the right side but just under -3/8" on the left, the upper side of the rim is leaning OUTWARDS!
Isn't camber supposed to be around 0 for a car like mine?
/Lars S
I'm not buying the bump steer. It's just not that low. My car is lower than that and I don't have bump steer issues. I think something is sloppy somewhere.
The pictures really help. And your description of the camber does as well. You should never have positive camber (top of the tire leaning out) on just about any modern vehicle, except maybe an old tractor. Sounds like you need to get it aligned.
However, everyone's advice about replacing components still stands. Inspect everything for wear and play and before you get it aligned, replace anything that you suspect is worn out. Otherwise you'll pay to have it done twice.
haha,
Its not bump steer..
If anything, its to high in my opinion, but that is not your problem right now.
Do you have any play in the steering wheel at rest?
Any clicks when you shake it back and forth?
Wear items.
Bearing at steering column.
U-joints under dash at steering column
Rubber damper at joint under gas tank
Tie rod ends, both inner and outer.
Bearings
LAst but not least, steering rack.
I replaced everything on the list with new parts.
It was the ring and pinion in the rack.
I rebuilt the rack and all is well.
rich
looks high in the front
This is what low looks like.
Look at where the wheels are at the top of the fender arch.
This car has no bump steer kit and handles perfectly.
I admit I love this picture of my car and was just looking for an excuse to post it again. Does that make me sick person?
It does? Ok, so what!
By the way, that is a really nice looking 914 you have...
John
isn't that kinda like what mcmark had when he found the steering "isolator" between the column and the rack about to fall apart ???
Total toe in should be 1/8 of an inch at the front and zero in the rear.
Camber should match side to side.
Thanks everyoune for your input it has been a great help to me!
By locking the lowest part of the steering shaft I can see that there is a minor play in the lower U-joint (the one just above the pedal cluster).
Are theese joints ment to be 100% free of play?
/Lars S
i agree way too much toe. I measure my alignments at home by simply hooking a measuring tape on a uniform part of the tire tread and measure it as high up as you can front and back. that has proven to be quite accurate for me. way better than driving over a piece of paper anyway
Dont use the tire.
I am not a fan of just using an angle piece because you could potentially put all the toe on one wheel and not know it.
Using strings (or a machine) gets you using the centerline of the car, and therefore adjusting BOTH sides identical.
Rich
I use angle sheet metal pieces but I dont use the tire but the rim for reference. I put the sheet metal at equal distance (about 1") from the rims most forward and most backward point and then do the measurements from the forward and back edges of the 24" wide sheet metal.
Of course using a machine is the best.
/Lars S
Found that the rack has a play in its outer right end, sideways and up and down, not in/out...putting this in a new tread.
/Lars S
For at the track: Two people, duct tape, a pen, a measuring tape, and a reasonably level area.
1. Measure the lowest point of the undercarrage from the ground up at the rear of the front tire such that the tape measure will span from one tire to the other without obstruction. The lowest point on a 914 is at the rear. Some cars have the lowest point at the front of the tire, but I've found that is rare.
2. Wipe the rear part of the tires clean of dirt at the height in #1. Place a piece of duct tape 2 or so inches long and mark a horizontal line with your pen at the height measured in #1. Do both front tires. It's not important where the duct tape is placed right to left.
3. Make a vertical pen line intersecting the horizontal line; anywhere convenient is fine, both sides. You now have two crosshairs to work with. I like to use a ball point pen for the nice crisp lines.
4. Measure the distance at the rear of the tires at the crosshairs. For accuracy, it's best that person A align the tape measure at the 1" line, rather than at the hook. Person B should record the distance at the other side.
5. Roll the car forward until the crosshairs are at the front of the tires at exactly the same height as they were at the rear. Measure and record.
6. Make your adjustment and roll the car forward until the crosshairs are again at the rear. Measure, then roll the car forward and measure again to determine correction. Only roll the car forward for each subsequent measurement to keep the suspension and steering loaded in the same direction. If you're short on room, you can roll the car back , but past the starting point, then forward to start the process again. Oh, make sure the steering wheel is pointing straight....on race cars I like to clamp the steering wheel to insure it doesn't move.
I've used this method for many years, and the degree of accuracy ia way better that stringing, IMO. The only thing to compensate for, is that these measurements are below wheel center, so the toe values should be slightly less.
Andys
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