Let's say I take my 2.0 FOUR and tear it all down.
Rebuild bottom end, add nice WebCAm, re-ring and make it eat race gas ( high compression eqipped ), valve job maybe some head work, too. Add Weber 44 IDF's.
Mind you, this is for A/X only and stays 2.0.
How much power could be scavenged? What RPM range is the target.
Longevity?
Here's the missing info. I'd like to keep it all under $4K Including all parts and labor.
I'll assemble.
What should I expect to pay to have it built out to long block?
Thanks!
I'd say the price will vary depending on where you live. In So Cal we can lots of things done cheaply as there ar elots of shops doing VW type engine hop up work. If it were me (and it used to be) I would spend the most $$$$ on head work as they are the worst possible thing you could get for performance. Next get the the rods gone over and also the crank as that is the heart of the engine and has to last. Then buy Raceware or other race quality fasteners to hold it all together. Of course with a stock geared tranny it will not feel as good as a short geared setup if you plan to track or auto-x it, but that will eat up your whole budget by itsself. Good luck
For HI PO....Ask Jake....why re-invent the wheel?
Rebuild it stock....otherwise every other asshole has an opinion and when ya wanna sell it...it's different from yours....
I like 914s....just NOT four bangers....
I'd expect to get.... hmmm... $4000.... hmmm..... $4000....
You can get 3 really great used spare motors, and just give it hell.
Can I say hell? That was the third time, so if it's no, well..
M
Maybe he'll answer...
With type four in the topic, I don't see him missing it.
KT
Never Fear- Jake is here!! LOL
I have a combo that'll get you 130HP with a 100% stock size engine and 10:1 CR... With carbs, not happening with stock FI..
You can do it fpor 4K no problem, and I have all of what you need to do it! The heads will be a CHUNK of the expense, but thats all the power!
BTW, it'll bounce the peg off the tach at 7500RPM after you are done!
The best fasteners are the ones VW used, nothing else has the expansion rate designed into it!
PM me if you want details
I knew you would see it!
One other option I have is this: someone is giving me a complete turbo kit for a type one.
Modify this to boost the 2.0 and see what happens.
There is an *outside* chance I may build a second 914 set up similar to my existing car.
I'll have one with a SIX and one with a FOUR.
If I bring 'em both to an autocross can I run both cars in the same run group. Jumping back and forth between cars?
KT
Sorta hijacking I wanna ask Jake and anyone else if they know if any effort has been made to lighten up the pushrods. Just seems like it takes a pile of energy to kick those things back & forth- isn't that why ohc engines are stronger? Maybe Jake and Charles have schemed up a ceramic PR.... yeah, that sounds good. Any knowlede out there? I'm just wondering.
turbo's no good for ax...
Sure, I even have some Nylon pushrods!
But, the stockers are strong and light and as long as you ae running more lift that stock you can normally shorten them to get the proper vavetrain geometry....
There is no use tolighten any of that reciprocating mass in the valve train unless you lighten the valves and rockers too, and ultimately pull some valve spring tension off of it- That makes HP butcan only be done if used with lightweight assemblies.
Toss the Turbo idea, doing it right will suck your budget up fast.
I would argue against two AX cars. First as MikeZ pointed out, not legal. Second, law of deminishing (can I say that here ) returns. If you try to fund two cars, chances are neither will preform 100% unless you have the budget of Force, Hendricks, or Penske. Better to put all your time and money into one really solid car than trying to do two and once.
I know, I am learning... Just not too well.
So, two a/x cars driven by me are out...
I may put together a 2.0 BP car for my nephew.
When he beats me, I'll make him drive the SIX.
Trekkor, Bx is for a totally stock engine (with STOCK CAM) with carbs. Br is same. basically, intake and exhaust are free; nothing else. you can bumb the compression up a half point.
anything over +.5 compression, OR non-stock cam, OR more than 2055 cc's, is Fm.
in other words, you're talking about an Fm car, so you might as well open up the displacement, or just give your nephew your current 2.0 as is.
which, btw, is the reason i'll be running in Fm with you.
(2 or 2056 with hot cam, carbs)
scratch that:
Br may bump compression unlimited and may bore 1.2 mm over stock, but still requires stock cam (doesn't this f-ing suck?).
Sounds like some dumb ass rules to me.
they are (dumbass rules).
they put people with relatively modest setups in an advanced class.
which is one reason i like the proposed points system.
Powered by Invision Power Board (http://www.invisionboard.com)
© Invision Power Services (http://www.invisionpower.com)