After the last autox as I was pulling out of the lot I noticed the brake warning light was on. I pushed the reset and it didn't turn it off.
The pedal did have act like the master cylinder was going bad or had gotten air in the system. If I pumped the pedal it would gain some pressure.
Drove it home and the light had gone out at one point, but came back on.
Spent Saturday bleeding the brakes and pulled pan off below the MC to make sure I was getting the switch reset. Pedal travel is not as firm as I would like it to be.
Light will not go out even when I know the reset is pushed in.
Tried switch from another MC same thing.
Is the MC bad and preventing the light from going out? Or something else?
E brake is on or switch is stuck ?
I don't have a ebrake switch or at least it isn't in place and hasn't been for years.
What color wires go to the switch and where do they come from, out the back of the tunnel?
Also does anybody have a picture of what color wires go where under the passenger seat?
The E brake wire is Brown with a white trace. . the same lead goes to the Master Cylinder. . if either lead is lose and touching ground, the red warning light will be on. The E brake lead is usually run in the little square frame at the front of the seat. . If you pull the carpet back by the heater lever you should see it where it exits the main wire harness.
Pull the lead off the M/c and see if the light goes out to eliminate the M/C switch. . If the light stays on, the ground is elsewhere.
Since the trouble occurred after a slalom, I'd bet a lose lead got tossed around and is touching frame ground
seal on mc piston is leaking, rebuild mc. fwiw
that is what I am starting to think cause the light was out the next time I went out to the garage.
Are there rebuild kits still avail. or just by a rebuilt one?
Buy a reman one. Not worth the bother to rebuild it yourself, IMHO.
--DD
No such thing as rebuilding MC's anymore. Kits are NLA. Probably a ground.
Remove your drivers seat and you'll probably see that brown and white wire snaking across the floor from the switch area to the back of your tunnel where it enters the main loom.
How is the warning switch triggered? by excessive movement of the piston? As it goes too far in the cylinder it touches the plunger and pops it out?
There are two circuits in the brake system, and basically two master cylinders inside that one housing. There is a passage connecting the two, and a plunger inside that passage. If it moves too far to one side or the other, it closes the switch.
--DD
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