Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: mr914 Jun 26 2013, 06:32 PM

Finally to the point of doing some primer and undercoating.

Trying something on the bottom side. Turns out UPOL makes a bedliner material called Raptor that is tintable. So I had it tinted L80E to see about saving a step of Body Schutz and then top coating.

Local Autobody supply was $230 per 4 litres with gun and colorant. But considering the cost of Schutz and paint, It might be a better approach

While waiting for the primer and Raptor to dry. Finally broke out the front hood.

To put this in perspective, I pulled the hood of, looked at it, said I'll deal with it later...

Well, its Later.... Finally Just been 10+ years

Did the intital sand and take a look at the photo. Fish Eye from Hell...

Looks like original paint, a tough as nails primer black/grey, then a white paint on top..

Sanded for 20 minutes with 80 grit and a DA sander. Still looks the same.

Could I be Imeron?

Any Idea on how/why?

I'm planning on chemically stripping it,

Thought you all would like to have a look.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: Harpo Jun 26 2013, 06:40 PM

Looking good Keith

Posted by: trojanhorsepower Jun 26 2013, 06:44 PM

Looks good.
Do those big wheels on the rotisserie not roll over the gravel? I am trying to decide what wheels to put on mine and I was hoping to use wheels very similar to those. If they can't handle the gravel in your driveway, they definitely won't work in mine.

Posted by: mr914 Jun 26 2013, 06:51 PM

I bought a 4x8 sheet of Marine grade plywood and ripped it to 12" strips.

That's what I roll on. 2x8s...

8" phenlolic wheels, ball bearing swivels and made instert/outriggers to adjust the track.

Real problem is when it is time to flip the car 180. Part in the garage and part on the strips.


The rotisserie will be available for rent/sale in about a month.

Posted by: ThePaintedMan Jun 26 2013, 06:52 PM

I recall Scotty/Rick weighing in on a similar situation awhile back. While I'm certainly no paint expert, their diagnosis sounded like it hit the nail on the head.

Primer/sealers used in the 80s did not do a good job of fully adhearing to the coat underneath, so each of those bubbles is where the paint was lifting. Only cure is to take all the paint off (as it sounds like you're doing) and go to bare metal. Use a good quality etch, then seal, then prime if you want to do it the right way that the pros like Scotty and Rick do.

...at least I think I got that right.

Posted by: mr914 Jun 26 2013, 06:53 PM

Is it sacrilege to put a 4 cyl motor in a factory 6 while rebuilding the motor?

Posted by: Dasnowman Jun 26 2013, 06:55 PM

I hate the chemical strip stuff I would just hit it with some 40 or 60 grit till I got down to the primer. And if really picky like me just blast the rest of the hood frame with a sand blaster.

Posted by: mr914 Jun 26 2013, 06:57 PM

20 more minutes of sanding.

Must be Imeron. Cant seem to cut it with 80 grit.

Chemical warfare tomorrow.

Posted by: scotty b Jun 26 2013, 07:01 PM

More than likely it is Imron. The stuff is like sanding concrete. The 356 I'm working on was done in 1983 with it. I hand blocked it all off with 80 then 180 on a file board. I have almost a week just in blocking that sh*t off.

Posted by: CrashDown Jun 27 2013, 01:40 AM

Chemical strip ---> Sand with 80grit on DA Sander -----> Acid etch primer ------> Epoxy sealer. That will give you you're best finish when you're all said and done. Then all ay gotta do to start your filler work it sand the Epoxy sealer till there is an eve 80grit scratch and no shiny sealer showing and go to town.

Spies Hecker makes a really good Metal etch primer. Part number 4055, and the hardener for it is 4056. 2 Coats of that and then two coats of an epoxy sealer and you're good to go 24hrs later.

Posted by: bulitt Jun 27 2013, 05:28 AM

looks like a nice tub for Michigan!

Posted by: rick 918-S Jun 27 2013, 06:48 AM

I'm not against chemical stripping. Just be sure you clean and neutralize the stripper and don't get it in any seams. If you don't get it all out it will wick out while your painting. I was in a shop one time and saw this happen.

I would use 36 grit to break the smooth surface. This will allow the chemicals to penetrate and lift the finish. There is no magic bullet for removing paint. if you rush and use too much pressure on the lids you will just make more work or ruin the lids. Never sand blast. I don't care how good you are with the nozzle. I've seen my share of warped panels from mis-guided blaster use. fixing warped panels with the outline of the inner structure in them is a monumental tack.

I have used a soda blaster to strip paint on inner structure like trunks and jambs. This works well specially in corners where you can't really get a sander in there.

Oh, another method I've used specially with Imron is a heat gun. Heat an area and use a putty knife to scrap off the paint. This works good on resprayed finishes. You usually don't need to heat the paint until it's smoking. It start to loosen and get pliable. Once you get a section loose you can usually just keep working the heat gun and putty knife along.

Posted by: mr914 Jun 27 2013, 08:09 AM

Rick

I had thought about the seam issue. As the underside was original L80E paint, I wss going to mask off the outer edges, chemical strip and then either sand or blast the remaining 1/2" around the perimeter.



"Nice Tub from Michigan".... Check out the my rustoration thread to see what I started with.

I don't even want to count the hours over the years, 100, 200, 300.....

But getting closer


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: mr914 Jun 27 2013, 08:11 AM

Hours and hours of


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: tdgray Jun 27 2013, 03:57 PM

No epoxy over etch primer.... delamination is not your friend. Ask me how I know

There is no need for etch primer with todays 2k primers.

Posted by: mr914 Jun 27 2013, 04:00 PM

Good to know, I'm planning on shooting a 2K primer