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Posted by: JRust Jul 1 2013, 09:22 PM

Okay so here is my teaser! I've always wanted a 914-6. I finally took the plunge & bought one. Most of you are probably thinking it is a v6 or some crazy thing . You've got a week to just sit there & wonder

.Yeah I know

Posted by: 914Sixer Jul 1 2013, 09:26 PM

Congratulations, it is fun to fly by the seat of your pants!!!!

Posted by: NORD Jul 1 2013, 09:32 PM

Not surprised, will be waiting for the pictures. Does it run? What color?

Come on give us some clues.

Posted by: McMark Jul 1 2013, 09:47 PM

Probably that Goldwing flat 6 conversion car you always wanted.

Posted by: messix Jul 1 2013, 10:46 PM

914-6 volt.....

power by 10 6volt golf cart batteries!

Posted by: Mr.242 Jul 1 2013, 10:53 PM

Posted by: Socalandy Jul 1 2013, 11:20 PM

I think he just scored a deal on 6 914's congrats Jamie!!! your killing us with the wait

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Jul 2 2013, 12:14 AM

A Schuco 914-6?!

Posted by: poorsche914 Jul 2 2013, 05:37 AM

Corvair power

Posted by: SUNAB914 Jul 2 2013, 05:49 AM

Matchbox car, its in the mail??

Posted by: billh1963 Jul 2 2013, 06:36 AM

Posted by: rhodyguy Jul 2 2013, 07:55 AM

did you sell the Z-car?

Posted by: lsintampa Jul 2 2013, 08:04 AM

maybe a 76?

or how about this

Posted by: computers4kids Jul 2 2013, 10:45 AM

Jamie does that mean I can swing by in a week or two on my way back from Seattle and pickup your LS1 stuff? Seriously
Give us some clues

Posted by: SirAndy Jul 2 2013, 11:56 AM

Oh no, what have you done now?

Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2013, 12:35 PM

Damn he guessed it . Nothing to spectacular but I was intrigued. Pretty solid car overall & a driver. Needs paint & will be getting the 5-lug conversion off my black car in short order

Holy crap these pics are tiny. Sorry I'll get more when I pick it up this weekend


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Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2013, 01:45 PM

Okay some more info. It's a 72 Gemini Blue Metallic (L96E) with a 66 Corvair 110 motor in it. It had Dual weber 40mm carbs & I'm curious on this setup as it isn't a triple weber's. So the 2 port weber's are feeding the 3 ports on the motor? I suppose it's better than a single carb setup for it . So the Corvair motor had to have the Cam changed over to run the right direction. A few other things as well for it to work. It was done 20 years ago but is solid overall. It's still an aircooled setup at least right .

Anyone know Corvair motor's that would have an idea what kind of HP & Torque this motor would have

Posted by: Drums66 Jul 2 2013, 01:57 PM

.....Hang-on to your hat,Jamie
(hope it has a corsa motor

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Jul 2 2013, 01:59 PM

Dr. Evil?

Posted by: kevin311 Jul 2 2013, 02:02 PM

I'm no expert but from what I understand those engines seemed to make a little more power when reversed than stock rotation given the same specs. Something like 12% IIRC. They are also torquey little guys. The 110s made 160 ft/lb at around 2500 rpm.
I want to do this swap one day but I have tons of other projects before that.

Good luck and keep us posted!

Kevin

Posted by: mrholland2 Jul 2 2013, 02:06 PM

Sooo. . it turns anticlockwise now?? huh? I'm cornfoosed

Posted by: sixnotfour Jul 2 2013, 02:18 PM

164 cubic inch 110 HP

Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2013, 03:24 PM

Thats basically what the 2.0 original 914-6 motor had wasn't it? At least HP wise.

I was reading up on Wikipedia & it sounded like in 66 there was a 140hp motor. Here is the article I was reading

For the 1965 model year, all engines had the head gasket area between the cylinder and the head widened, with a new design folded "Z" section stainless steel head gasket virtually eliminating any risk of head gasket failure. A 140 hp (104 kW) version with four single barrel carburetors, and a progressive linkage was introduced in 1965 as option L63 'Special High Performance Engine' and was standard equipment on the Corsa model. The carburetors consisted of a single barrel primary and a single barrel secondary on each head, connected by a progressive linkage; in addition, the heads featured a 9.25:1 compression ratio, and the cars received dual exhaust systems. Engines supplied with the automatic transmission after spring 1965 were modified with a camshaft from the 95 horsepower (71 kW) base engine, and a special crankshaft gear that retarded its timing 4 degrees- the former to increase torque and smooth the idle with the Powerglide transmission, the latter to restore some of the peak horsepower lost at higher engine speeds by the economy contoured camshaft with short timing.

1966 engines were basically carryover from the 1965 models, however Corvairs sold in California (except turbocharged models) now featured the General Motors Air Injection Reactor System (AIR), an emissions control system consisting of an engine driven air pump that drew filtered air from the air cleaner, and injected a metered amount into the exhaust manifolds via tubing to promote complete oxidation and combustion of exhaust gasses to lower emissions. Specially calibrated carburetors and slight changes to the ignition timing and advance curves were part of the package. The AIR system had an unfortunate effect of substantially raising exhaust gas, valve and head temperatures, particularly under heavy loads and this was a drawback on the Corvair where engine cooling could not be easily improved to cope with the higher temperatures. Nonetheless, performance and drivability were not noticeably affected in most circumstances. In 1968, all Corvair (and other GM) engines got the AIR system for every market. The combined heat load imposed by the AIR system, along with air conditioning, made air conditioning unavailable as an option after 1967, and on all earlier Corvairs with the AIR system.[size=2]

Posted by: Drums66 Jul 2 2013, 03:56 PM

,,,,,1965-66
95hp
110hp
140hp
Turbocharged 180hp ,all 6-164 as stated above

Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2013, 04:15 PM

Blast must be the 110 then. Well hopefully when they did the rebuild reversing everything. They improved it some between it all. Until I drive it I'll just have to be curious

Posted by: Sleepin Jul 2 2013, 04:59 PM

Time for a turbo!

Posted by: rick 918-S Jul 2 2013, 05:19 PM

914Coop (Irv) and his son are doing a turbo car right now. It's close to being done mechanically I guess. I want to visit him and check his progress but I have been way to busy. He may chime in.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=132215&hl=

Posted by: carr914 Jul 2 2013, 05:32 PM

I'd Buy That!

Posted by: carr914 Jul 2 2013, 05:33 PM

Do It! Us connected Folks Need to Know

Posted by: billh1963 Jul 2 2013, 06:14 PM

Friend of mine in high school had several Corvairs...back when you could literally get one for $25 or even free. His driver was a '66 coupe with the fairly rare (at least I think they were rare) 4 speed. We drove that car everywhere.

The only issue was the thing liked throwing alternator belts....which could be changed in just a couple of minutes. The engine was very reliable and only need the occasional valve adjustment.

Posted by: r3dplanet Jul 2 2013, 07:11 PM

I've got this exact motor sitting in my garage now. I've always wanted to do this conversion with the VW Type-1 94mm P&C conversion to make a 3.2 liter engine. Fabulous engine. No valve adjustments. Lots and lots of power. Lots of choices for fuel and exhaust options.

If you have one port on each intake, and the motor was made from 1965-1967, then you have the 110hp engine. That's widely considered to be the best motor. If you have two ports on each intake, then it's likely to be the 140hp motor. The only difference between the two was the intake configuration of the heads. The 140 actually didn't produce more speed or acceleration until it revved pretty high. But the 110 is quicker off the line. So that extra 30hp didn't present itself until you got up there a ways.

I have the tables for engine codes, so if you supply the last two letters of the engine serial number I can tell you what you have.

Another little bit of trivia is that the Corvair engine was originally designed to run what we now call reverse rotation. But GM reversed the rotation of the motor to use a stock GM transmission. When you change it back to the correct rotation, the engine actually runs better with a bit more power.

Originally I thought about rebuilding my Corvair motor as a turbo, but I got to thinking that a five-speed gearbox was never an option for the motor. Given that the Corvair was the first American production car with a turbo, it wasn't terribly fancy. It was reliable but with no waste gate or liquid cooling it was quite primitive. The turbo lag on these motors is really significant and so my thought was that this lag would never keep up with the quicker ratios of the 901 gearbox. Maybe in 4th gear and passing, but that's probably all. I don't think the turbo is worth the trouble. But an air-cooled turbo is impressive.

Also keep in mind that these HP ratings were old style, with an almost bare motor mounted on a stand, measured at the flywheel. So when we use terms like 110 and 140, those are really better used as designations. Real HP would probably be something like 90-110 at the wheel.

In my opinion, and tongue-waggling desire, even a 140 motor doesn't make much more power than a good hopped up Type 4. But you get a silent valve train (hydraulics rule!) and a sweet sounding motor. This isn't unlike the Porsche 2.7 six, which was only slightly faster than the 2.0.

If you have your druthers, you should do the VW P&C conversion, skip the turbo, and rock it. Hopefully your motor is already reverse rotation - as opposed to a flipped ring gear in the transmission. The motor will be good for 250k-300k miles with little to do but changing the oil. Also, you now have a 200hp motor. Even with the head work and the custom machining for the P&Cs (Starr Cooke on Ebay sells them ready to go), you'll be bucks ahead. You probably already have a fuel system, so you've already saved a bunch of money. You can do a 4-into-1 carb, four carb setup (factory), triple Webers, dual Webers, etc.

Of all the 914 engine conversions I think the Corvair is the best way to go. All in all you're looking at $4-$5K for all new parts on the engine rebuild, which is just leaps and bounds ahead of any VW Type-4 for dollars spent on power, reliability, and longevity. And it's only a fraction of what a Porsche six would cost to rebuild. Plus, it's air cooled, bolt-in, and entirely reversible without cutting one little bit of the body. No reason to tear up the car like a Subaru conversion.

My $.02 cents. I'll live vicariously through your project! Congratulations!

-marcus

Posted by: billh1963 Jul 2 2013, 07:22 PM

Really good points, Marcus.

People look down their noses at the Corvair because of Nader;but, putting that aside the engine was actually pretty darn reliable.

Posted by: r3dplanet Jul 2 2013, 07:29 PM

Nader's points about the safety of the car were valid. Lousy rear suspension exactly like an early Beetle, crummy brakes, flimsy sheet metal, etc. More copies of Unsafe at Any Speed were sold than the 1.7 million Corvairs. GM listened and redesigned the car to make all of the necessary changes for the 1964 model, but by then the damage was done and the Mustang V8 and Plymouth Barracuda V8 was out and shoppers wanted V8 motors.

For for all of the flap about Nader, he never complained about the engine. Nobody did. Just guilt by association. If you think about it, in modern times if a car manufacturer sells 30-50k models of anything it's a huge success. 1.7 million cars is absolutely stellar.

-m.

Posted by: 914Sixer Jul 2 2013, 07:59 PM

I got to drive one of the 1966 180 turbo cars when I was in high school. They were really bad ass but REALLY hard to keep between the bar ditches, ie poor suspension.

Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2013, 08:23 PM

It is reverse rotation already. It also has dual weber 40's on it. Guy thinks there is a vacuum leak on one of the intakes. Slight pop on decel sometimes. 3 to1 headers on each side running dual exhaust. It also occasionally misses on the starter. I'm thinking the flywheel might be missing some teeth. Just a few of the things I'll be troubleshooting after I get it.

I am interested in learning more about the VW P&C conversion. You have a specific thread or article on it?

Posted by: sgetsiv Jul 2 2013, 09:01 PM

Let me know when you're ready for paint. She's going to be a beauty!!!

Posted by: r3dplanet Jul 2 2013, 11:09 PM

Jamie -

The scoop on the VW P&C conversion is that while better stock replacement Corvair cylinders and Keith Black pistons are available for cheap, the VW Type-1 design is better. Better alloy, more fins, better cooling, etc. They're almost a bolt-in to the Corvair case. Almost. To make them fit the two middle of the six need to be shaved a bit and some of the stud holes need to be widened. They also need the bottom skirt material to be shaved down .300". There's an excellent video detailing the process here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1x9vccK-N4

The big bore conversion is a four step process:

(1) The cheapest thing to do is to find a machinist who's familiar with the process and find some good quality, new Type-1 94mm cylinders which are quite inexpensive. Then find some 94mm KB pistons and pins.

(2) Next, you have to have a machinist flycut the heads to accept the larger diameter cylinders. That's a good time to make sure that your heads have been "staked" and modernized to solved the valve drop issue notorious to the early Corvair engines, but easily solved for decades now with the proper procedures.

(3) The case needs to have the cylinder bores expanded slightly to accept the new cylinders.

(4) You'll probably have to grind a little off each connecting rod and then re-balance them. When the case hemispheres are bolted up initially, you can examine the rotating assembly and see where this needs to be done and do it yourself. Or have your machinist do it.

Now, you do have options. You can buy the heads and cylinders all ready to go from a well respected guy on Ebay who sells the entire heads with a new valve job and modifications ready to go for usually less than one grand. He also sells the cylinders already machined. Or you can send your stuff to him for just the machine work. See:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvair-140-Big-Valve-heads-for-92-or-94-mm-VW-Barrels-/120903384066?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c26673c02&vxp=mtr

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corvair-94mm-VW-barrels-pistons-rings-makes-191-monster-motor-ALL-NEW-/110875983684?hash=item19d0b93f44&vxp=mtr

* OR *

You could do what I planned to do and enlist another respected outfit, American-Pi, and pay $1575 for them to supply you with new cylinders, pistons, and rings and then do all the machining you need in one stop shopping.

http://www.american-pi.com/corvair/corvhome.html

You send them your heads, case, and rods and they do the rest. The Corvair guys have reports of glad tidings and positive reviews for their work. Shipping is a touch expensive, but it's not all that bad. They send you basically everything ready to assemble yourself, assuming that you already have a reverse rotation cam, gear, and distributor drive gear. And you do. I think that this would really be the way to go for most people, including myself. The good news is that the heads you need to use are the heads you already have, not the early ones. So you're ideally poised for the conversion.

What all this gets you is power and reliability. The VW pistons and cylinders are a way better design, and makes the engine run much cooler and greatly prolongs its life. And of course it doubles your HP. So even if you were doing just a rebuild of a standard Corvair engine this would make all kinds of sense. Since you already have excellent working cores, a good reverse-rotation engine, and a good fuel system, you basically spend $1600 and a weekend and you're off to the races.

I like to remember that at the end of the day GM basically wanted their own version of a Karmann Ghia. A bigger car but still clearly a 1950s body style with a more powerful air cooled rear engine and a ton more leg room. They prototyped the Corvair with a VW engine and then transferred the design to a six cylinder to haul around a heaver car. So there's a goofy kind of circular logic with this whole process.

At least in mind it does. But I'm a crazy person so who knows where the reality is focused.

Did you find the engine serial number yet? It's on top of the case right up by the front belt pulley. Also, can you send a photo of your carb/intake setup?

-marcus

Posted by: JRust Jul 3 2013, 11:18 AM

I got a few full size pics but none of the motor. This will be it until I pick it up saturday. It doesn't look to impressive I know. It needs paint for sure but is supposed to be solid rust wise. Which is why I bought it. Well that & it runs/drives. If I get there & I find rust it won't be coming home with me. While I am a sucker when it comes to 914's. I have yet to totally screw myself with one . Updates to follow when I get it this weekend


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Posted by: JRust Jul 7 2013, 08:41 AM

Well I picked it up. In Woodland CA getting breakfast. Then heading home. Here are a couple pics. Runs fine but I didn't do anything but drive it up on the trailer. Checked it for rust & it is excellent. Just some surface in the rear trunk & a little in the interior.


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Posted by: billh1963 Jul 7 2013, 08:51 AM

Very cool! You may have already said it; but, what kind of carbs are on it now? Four of the single barrel Solex style (from the 140) or something else?

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 7 2013, 09:00 AM

See my bus thread for info on the 3.1 conversion. Reversing them is easy, working on them is easy, they are cheap, plentiful, and pretty cool.

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 7 2013, 09:02 AM

BTW, from 66 on the only things they changed to make more HP were the heads and carbs. The 180 is a turbo 140, the 150 is a turbo 110. They are all 164ci. 140 has bigger valves and 4 carbs. 110 has 2 carbs.

Posted by: JRust Jul 7 2013, 10:51 AM

It has dual weber 40s Bill

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 7 2013, 11:03 AM

That aint stock, looking forward to the pics

Posted by: sixnotfour Jul 7 2013, 01:32 PM

all turbo's had small valves, The bigger carb on 65 and later made the 180,
1964 150 are the same as 65 and later ,but have the small carb..

The only thing better about a 66 and later is the beefy Saginaw 4spd.

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Jul 7 2013, 06:33 PM

I grew up with corvairs due to my neighbor's dad having one since brand new (66) that he drove from Chicago to San Jose, California and also my best friend had one in high school. I remember his sister calling him at my house asking why it wont run anymore? He asked her, "what did you do to it"? She says "I filled the radiator to the top because I couldn't see any water in it, I also think you have oil in your radiator". He hung up and said to me "lets go to my sister's cause she just dumped water into the motor". I laughed the whole way there, he was pissed at me! We rebuilt it but it was funny as hell explaining to her that VW's were not the only air-cooled engines.

Posted by: JRust Jul 7 2013, 08:40 PM

Okay more pics! I made it home with no problems & took it out for a drive. Had to fill up the tank. It does have a healthy backfire on decel. Not sure if it is the exhaust leak causing it? Actually runs out pretty good & is plenty quick. Not v8 quick of course but definitely can tell a difference over a stock 2.0 type 4. I was a little surprised to see the stock FI fuel pump in the front trunk. There is a regulator in the back by the carbs. Don't know why they didn't just put in an electric pump for carbs. No reasn to have all that pressure going back to the regulator . It is missing all the tin but the top piece surrounding the fan . The right rear brake is grinding pretty noticably.

My first project will be switching out the 5-lug suspension off my black 75. The SC front end does have that huge underbody sway bar. Way overkill in my opinion but I'll leave it for now. I'll be putting on my new PMB Calipers I won at WCR this year . Along with new rear rotors & pads. The fronts are in good shape so no worries there. Not sure if has already been upgraded to a 19mm master cylinder. If not I'll be getting that done too. I'll also replacing the gas pedal. If you see the picture with it there is a nice gate hinge bolted into place . Another nice PO job


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Posted by: boxstr Jul 7 2013, 09:19 PM

Jamie, congratulations, you have a 914 with a Corvallis motor.
I hope you didn't spend all of your money, I found a sweet 280 Z with a 350 chev V8 in Walla Walla.
It's on my list under cars for sale.
Craig at CAMP

Posted by: JRust Jul 7 2013, 10:04 PM

Are you fuching with me? You know I have a 280z with a 350 v8 in it 'm trying to sell

Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 7 2013, 10:13 PM

I love the embossed label tape!

Looks like it needs some TLC and a steam cleaning...

Posted by: Todd Enlund Jul 7 2013, 10:23 PM

That's pretty sweet, Jamie. Love the vintage Dymo tape labels.

The wheels are really cool. Westerns?

Posted by: rick 918-S Jul 7 2013, 10:26 PM

Evil must have been over welding on that thing...

Posted by: messix Jul 7 2013, 10:26 PM

fish on!

Posted by: boxstr Jul 7 2013, 10:42 PM

Hey, you have more than one 914. Why not more than one Z car, with a V8??
Craig at CAMP

Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 7 2013, 10:55 PM

I thought those intake manifolds looked familiar...

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 7 2013, 10:55 PM

Funny, that's just what I was thinking! Manifolds courtesy of Dr. E!

--DD

Posted by: Mr.242 Jul 8 2013, 10:32 AM

Same welding school?

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 8 2013, 10:59 AM

He missed the class on grinding down the welds.

Other than the tail shifter, it looks like a fun ride. Why does it have the stock FI pump up front, but carbs installed???

Posted by: JRust Jul 8 2013, 12:09 PM

Yeah no clue there. He's got a regulator setup in back. Just seems like alot of pressure to be running back to the regulator. When a cheap electric pump for carbs would do the job. I'll be redoing all the fuel lines too eventually.

Hey Mike where is the temp gage setup usually on the corvair motor? Is there a CHT? Or an oil temp gage the norm? If oil temp gage where is there a stock spot it get's the reading?

Posted by: sixnotfour Jul 8 2013, 12:11 PM

Or the fuel pump is from a 911-914-6, pressure just right.

Posted by: JRust Jul 8 2013, 12:16 PM

Didn't think of that. I assumed they had a different fuel pump . Of course I've never had a real 6 to gage it against

Posted by: sixnotfour Jul 8 2013, 12:34 PM

look at the end of it--0580960009

Posted by: SLITS Jul 8 2013, 04:55 PM

Did you get a spare set of rubber main bearings with it?***




















There are a few here who might remember that classic thread.

Posted by: JRust Jul 8 2013, 10:02 PM

Drove it around for a good hour tonight around town. Man was getting some looks. Car kind of looks like crap. Then the occasional backfire . MY daughter was even with me. She's a keeper she just laughed along with me. Didn't even try to slink down in her seat

Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 8 2013, 11:40 PM

Posted by: r3dplanet Jul 9 2013, 12:31 AM

It looks to have a remote oil cooler. Where did they put the cooler?

When you get a chance, can you get some pics of the engine mount setup? Or, you know, maybe take some measurements?

-m.

Posted by: JRust Jul 9 2013, 10:21 AM

I'll get measurments. They just used the stock early motor mount bar. Looks like they just retrofitted the side bolts a little wider than stock. Then welded on the tab for the front of the motor. It's effective enough but I'll be doing something a little nicer.

I also am going to swap out the tailshifter. I've got a nice sideshift with a cable shift setup (Thanks to Mike Bellis). I was going to put that on my LS1 but think I'll use it on this instead. Was planning to do a Boxter tranny at some point for my LS1 anyway.


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Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 9 2013, 06:44 PM

I'll give you a great deal on an Audi 5 speed too!

Posted by: JRust Jul 10 2013, 08:11 AM

Yeah those short gears would work great for me . I'll be keeping my eye's open for a nice 6 speed. I'm in no rush though. I'm going to concentrate on this 914 for a while. Then work on painting my LS1 car. Not going to do anything more on the LS1 conversion until I finish this car.

Posted by: JRust Jul 13 2013, 01:52 AM

Excited to start work on my 914 later today. My push for RRC is officially on

Posted by: kg6dxn Jul 13 2013, 09:57 AM

It's a matter of HP & Torque... The gearing is too low for my 350hp turbo engine. It would be great for a 100-150 hp engine. It would not work well for your LS1 conversion. Here are the specs, not sure how this compares to a 901...

EZG- Final/ 3.7
ratio/ overall
1/ 3.778/ 13.98
2/ 2.16/ 7.99
3/ 1.429/ 5.29
4/ 1.029/ 3.81
5/ 0.838/ 3.10

Posted by: JRust Jul 13 2013, 07:24 PM

I managed to get some work done today. Started by making room in the shop for my cars. That took about 2 hours as it was a mess from my move. Just threw alot in there as I was pressed for time.

Next I brought in the black 75 that has the nice 5-lug setup on it. Got it up on the lift & pulled the complete suspension front & back. Yes it is on 4 jackstands that are sitting on harbor freight dollies. I would never crawl under it like it is. It is solid but space is tight & I needed to push it over to make room for the blue 914. Plus it made it easier to slide my scissor lift out from under it. Added a few pics of the reason the black car is a Donor

Next the Blue car went up on the lift. Pulls the rear suspension. Managed to screw up one shock int he trunk. Couldn't break that nut free & made the mistake of using vise grips on the very top to hold it in place . Oh well they were well used shocks anyway. Ended up cutting the sucker off. Got the rear trailing arms on & realized I didn't have new CV joint Gaskets. So I've got a couple things to get order from Pelican.

Overall a solid day but I am tired & called it quits. Absolutely great to spend a day working on my car. Been months since I have done any wrenching




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Posted by: Dr Evil Jul 13 2013, 09:04 PM

A stock 901 will do nice for your engine

Posted by: JRust Jul 13 2013, 10:56 PM

I'm putting in Mike's Cable shift 901. Basically stock besides a nice "H" gear for 5th

Posted by: McMark Jul 14 2013, 02:08 AM

Are you saying you trashed a perfectly good KYB?

For shame!

Posted by: JRust Jul 19 2013, 10:12 AM

Got both rear trailing arms with the 5lug setup installed now. I'll be installing SS Brake lines tomorrow. I also plan to get the front suspension installed. Just got my new front Rotors from PMB . Just waiting on the pads but nothing that will keep me front getting it on my car.

I also just picked up some Metal GT flares from Brett. Not sure if I am going to rush & get those on. Once the suspension is complete & it rolls again. I'll be pulling the drivetrain. I'm missing most the engine tin. I'm looking for a complete set of tin. I know I'll be customizing all of it for the engine bay. Not a huge deal there but be easier to do right with a stock set there.

Posted by: JRust Jul 23 2013, 02:24 PM

I installed the front suspension. Replaced the passenger side rotor & repacked the bearings. Just need to change out the brake pads which weren't even that worn. Good to have it all fresh though. Was hoping to get to the drivers side tonight. Not gonna happen though. Oh well looks like saturday I'll finish it up. Bleed the brakes & take it for a spin

Posted by: JRust Aug 3 2013, 05:24 PM

Okay so the while I was in there bug is kicking in. During the 5lug swap I decided to get some new front rotors. Which had me order new pads. After installing the rotors & going to do the pads. My calipers looked like they needed a rebuild. So they are packed & will be on there way to PMB on monday. Luckily he has some cores allready so mine will also shipping to me on monday. Along with some speed bleeders for all 4 corners ( i love those things ). My original plan was to get the supension done & on the road. Then tackle a few other things. That has changed too

Pulling my CV's to repack both ends. Next is the tranny coming out for it's replacement 901 with a cableshift & an "h" gear for 5th . My headers are coming off for some work. Had an exhaust leak causing a backfire. Which they are so tight to my engine bar I can't just pull them off. I'll need to actually drop the motor to get them off. Well I may as well. I could just pop the motor off the mount an inch to get them. At that point it's easier to just drop the whole thing. Which leads me to cleaning up the motor & checking for leaks. along with customizing some engine tin. With only a month to go until RRC I am pushing things a bit. What else is new. Wouldn't be to bad if I didn't just have saturdays to get things done.

I also want to add some type of remote oil cooler. I'm a little worried about the heat on the trip. I'd feel a little better with a bigger oil cooler.

Posted by: JRust Aug 13 2013, 08:01 AM

Okay made a little progress. Well sort of. Took a few steps back to do it. Ordered turbo tie rods from PMB along with getting my front calipers rebuilt. Got both of those in the mail before the weekend. I took my son up to Seattle for a much needed father son trip. So the teener didn't get any work done over the weekend. Got into it last night a bit though.

Pulled the front suspension off again. My old tie rods didn't want to come off. To tight of space in there with the suspension on. Since I hadn't hooked up the brakes yet. Easy enough to just drop it. So I did just that. Swapped out the Tie rods. Then pulled my Master Cylinder. I'll be replacing it with a 19mm one. As soon as I find the damn thing in my stash . Hopefully that will be tonight. Then the suspension will go back on. After that my beautiful rebuilt PMB calipers will go on. Then I can bleed the brakes & call the suspension good

Posted by: JRust Aug 17 2013, 08:13 PM

Made some progress today. Huge thanks to Marcus for coming down today & helping. I owe you bud . We swapped out my Master cylinder for a 19mm one. Reinstalled the front suspension. Installed my newly restored PMB brake calipers. I'd already replaced my front rotors. So my front end had a nice upgrade. Not only with the nice 5lug SC front end. But the new rotor's, Porterfield pads, Turbo tie rods & the restored calipers . I also put on my new speed bleeders. Then spent a while bleeding the brake system.

With that done I am on to pulling the drivetrain. I've got a few gaskets to replace. Then swapping the old tailshift for a newer sideshift converted to cableshift. The drivetrain will be coming out this week sometime.


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Posted by: JRust Aug 17 2013, 10:11 PM

SOme more brake porn


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Posted by: JRust Aug 18 2013, 07:07 PM

Dropped my drivetrain today! I ordered a few gaskets & exhaust donuts. I should have them this week. I pulled the old sloppy tailshift tranny. I've got to replace the tailcone gasket on the one replacing it. Then route my cables. I think I will just run them through the hole the shift rod comes through. This overall setup is definitely different.

I really don't like the belt setup. They are known for throwing them. Would be a pretty quick swap. With the way the oil cooler is setup. That wont be such a simple thing. I'll need to do some rerouting or something there. I'm not going to mess with the setup to much though. Just going to run the motor pretty much as is. I wanted a driver while I work on the LS1. I don't want to be sinking money into this to the point my LS1 get's put off more.

Here are a few pics of the motor out on the stand. I have to admit having a lift is so damn awesome. Between my lift & my hydrolic table on wheels. It was absolutely easy to pull. Can't believe how many years I wasted lying on my back. Jacking up side to side to get it high enough to drop. I my lift


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Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 18 2013, 07:21 PM

Before you talk shit about the belt configuration, do some research. If installed and adjusted correctly they throw as often as other belts. This is a superior setup and you dont have to tweak it. Check with the real corvair guys, they are a wealth of knowledge.

Posted by: JRust Aug 18 2013, 07:33 PM

I'm happy to read up on it & have. I don't mean to be harsh on the setup. I'm fine with it if it works. Maybe some of the stuff I've read is urban legend crap with the belts. Or just guys who didn't have it setup right. Just looking at my setup with the remote oil filter. Those lines go through the middle of the belt. If I did happen to throw a belt. It wouldn't be so easy to swap. So I need to configure that setup so that won't be a problem. Of course if it never throws a belt it is fine the way it is .

I consider you to be one of those real Corvair guys Mike. So feel free to chime in anytime. I've PM'd you a couple times with questions with no reply. I know your a busy guy so no biggie. When you get time shoot me a reply

Posted by: r3dplanet Aug 18 2013, 08:19 PM

Hey, can you post a good close up pic of right where your oil lines leave the front engine case? I've never seen such a close cut job on that and I'm super curious how it's set up. I can see now that any remote oil filter will have lines that sit in between the belt.

Let me know when you get your parts from Clark's?

-marcus

Posted by: JRust Aug 18 2013, 08:35 PM

Here are a few Marcus


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Posted by: JRust Aug 18 2013, 08:36 PM

Sorry I bought a Mac & haven't figured out the resizing program yet


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Posted by: r3dplanet Aug 18 2013, 09:12 PM

Super interesting. I took some photos on the piece in question. You can see with the aid of my unparalleled Photoshop skillz what the top and bottom of the holes that were modified for your setup look like.





Note that big hole houses one of two oil pressure relief valves. I have a worry that perhaps you might be missing one if the PO just drilled this out and welded on a fitting. It does have the advantage of clearing the firewall with ease and I like that they point straight up. I also like that the PO took the time to install an oil pressure sender, so he must have been cognizant of the oil pressure issue at some unmeasured depth of his psyche.

On other conversions (incl Dr. Evil?) I've seen that the oil filter is simply cut where I show the red line and then two -AN or other fittings are drilled and threaded into the two corresponding tubes. I realize that the more I learn about your engine the more work I make for you. Sorry.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 19 2013, 11:38 AM

Yup, I keep the pressure valve. Just cut the filter housing off and put fittings on.


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Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 19 2013, 11:42 AM

The above is a bit more elaborate than what you need. Root hooked me up with adding aluminum to the adapter so it could be tapped for NPT nipples.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 19 2013, 11:45 AM

Few more.


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Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Aug 19 2013, 03:56 PM

I grew up riding in a corvair and I can not recall ever stopping due to a thrown belt? Great motors and reliable as long as you maintenance regularly. I had just looked at and contemplating buying a rampside truck, similar to below;

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 19 2013, 06:32 PM

I do love those. Great for getting motorcycles.

Posted by: JRust Aug 19 2013, 10:08 PM

That is pretty damn cool. Unless it could tow my 914 easily it will never happen though . Still a damn cool truck

Posted by: montoya 73 2.0 Aug 20 2013, 05:40 PM

I'm trying to trade instead of giving money for the truck. I don't know about towing (maybe if you had the supercharged 150 horse) but it would be good for loading up those parts for swap meet time!