Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: GunWilli Jul 28 2013, 02:44 PM

New to online forums and 914's...

I'm about to replace the ignition switch in my 1974 1.8L.

I've done a little bit of reading online and I think I'm ready to dig in. If anyone wants pictures of something specific or has comments about what I'm doing, please leave a reply.

Right now:
- Starter tested okay
- Safety belt system jumped
- How to instructable from Pelican Parts
- Switch on order from AutoAtlanta

I think I'll get everything taken apart while I wait on parts. I'm also thinking about having new keys made... that's another topic.

Take Care...

Posted by: type2man Jul 28 2013, 03:02 PM

I had a problem with my 914 not starting every now and then. It turned out the be the actual cylinder and not the electrical part in the back. The piece on the switch that goes into the electrical part wore out on mine and wouldn't turn the switch far enough to start.

Posted by: Kirmizi Jul 28 2013, 06:41 PM

This can also happen with some of the "cheap" replacement switches, since they don't fit as snug in the steering column as the originals.

Posted by: jimkelly Jul 28 2013, 07:03 PM

check this out

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/914_ignition_switch/914_ignition_switch.htm

jim

Posted by: tomeric914 Jul 29 2013, 07:49 AM

The same switch can be had for about $6 from a VW. No need to go to AA.

I stopped in to AA a few years ago while in Atlanta on business. Their suggestion was to use a piece of paper to shim the ignition switch. It worked... for about a week. They sold me the same $6 Chinese switch for $30. I thought I was going to get an original switch for that price. Turns out I got the bait and switch.


I went with a good used VW cylinder and switch off eBay. Has worked ever since (knock on wood).

Posted by: Dave_Darling Jul 29 2013, 08:22 AM

Just curious, but why the instructions from Pelican and the switch from AA?

(I do have a vested interest...)

--DD

Posted by: GunWilli Aug 12 2013, 09:20 AM

Sorry for the delay. I don't have my email notification set up correctly. To answer your question.

Parts:
AutoAtlanta has schematics with links directly to the parts, and it seems like they can supply just about anything anything. For example I couldn't readily find a turn signal switch at Pelican.

Instructions:
Pelican's instructions came up top hit on google search.

I hope this helps...

Posted by: GunWilli Aug 12 2013, 09:23 AM

I think I figured it out....

Corroded wires to the large relay under the passenger seat. (pictured) I stripped them back, twisted together and she fired right up. I will do some more testing and then make the repair permanent.

Posted by: chads74 Oct 3 2013, 08:06 AM

I am having problems with my car not starting lately. I have been scratching my head and can't figure out what the deal is. So the relay under the seat... did that seam to fix your starting issues? Or did you replace the ignition switch also? Any help would be much appreciated!

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 3 2013, 08:38 AM

wouldn't the test for consistent power at the ignition lead to the starter be to see if it has 12v with every key-in-ignition turn? if not, then there possibly a switch problem?

I would say, to test alone, put a buzzer or light on the ignition lead to starter, to see.

I need to test mine btw.

jim

Posted by: chads74 Oct 7 2013, 04:31 PM

Do you have a pic of where the wires connect at the relay? I think one of mine pulled from the relay. This is what I have....

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 7 2013, 06:11 PM

Just eliminate that rats nest of wires by removing the relay and connecting the two Yellow wires together!

That will eliminate the no start relay from engaging and the seatbelt warning buzzer!

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Oct 7 2013, 06:33 PM

You stated that you defeated the seat belt interlock circuit, but the picture tells a different story

Posted by: chads74 Oct 7 2013, 06:57 PM

Just to make sure I understand... Splice the two large yellow wires together, and I can cap the remaining wires.

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 7 2013, 07:00 PM

Those are not my photos!

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Oct 7 2013, 07:04 PM

I just connected the two wires and removed the relay!

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Oct 7 2013, 07:09 PM

My bad

Posted by: JRust Oct 7 2013, 08:06 PM

I ordered 2 ignition switches from Pelican last week. Ordered sunday & received wendnesday http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/9144/POR_9144_ELswch_pg1.htm#item3

$8 bucks & yeah it's the VW switch. I ordered 2 since they were cheap. I have always gotten my orders from Pelican in 3-4 days. I cannot say the same for AA

Oh yeah you don't need to take the lower dash off. You can get to those plugs just fine without pulling it.

Posted by: chads74 Oct 8 2013, 06:17 AM

Good to know! I ordered the switch from pelican late last week, so I am hoping I can get it soon.

Posted by: chads74 Oct 9 2013, 07:49 PM

Did I receive the wrong switch?




Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: Drums66 Oct 9 2013, 08:37 PM

.....Yes,those are the late switches(early key cylinder)

Posted by: chads74 Oct 9 2013, 08:58 PM

Good to know thanks for the info!

Posted by: orthobiz Oct 10 2013, 08:22 PM

I had to source an original NOS German switch for my car. The aftermarket switch just wouldn't work long enough. External dimensions look very, very close so I cannot explain the discrepancy. Never tried the paper wrap trick.

I posted pics in the Parts Vault.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=109146

Paul

Posted by: chads74 Oct 10 2013, 08:26 PM

Any one know where to find an original switch and about what they should cost?

Posted by: orthobiz Oct 11 2013, 04:33 AM

Brad Mayeur found mine a few years ago. Don't expect they come up often, it's an eBay or World Classified type of item. Someone out there has one, though, I'd bet. Maybe place a WTB ad on our site.

As for price, IIRC it was under 50 bucks but I don't really remember exactly. For the shenanigans my steering column was giving me it was well worth it.

Paul

Posted by: chads74 Oct 11 2013, 02:30 PM

I'll keep my eyes open for one

Posted by: Porschef Oct 11 2013, 04:59 PM

Have you tried calling the nearest Porsche dealer and ordering one?

They're still available. Made inGermany. Cost about 35 clams. And you won't have to change it in three months.

Posted by: chads74 Oct 11 2013, 05:03 PM

I did not know that, defiantly worth looking into. Thanks for the info!

Posted by: dangrouche Oct 11 2013, 05:09 PM

The one you have with that extra bit of plastic can be ground off with a dremel tool and used. I have done it before. Alternatively, there's one on eBay for $7 delivered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/350817105639?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Posted by: partwerks Oct 12 2013, 06:13 PM

I'm stabbing in the dark here, but I wonder if either of those two things could be related to the scenario with my engine cutting out for about 6 seconds, and then as strange as it just quits, it always takes back off again. Only does it when driving down the road, intermittently, of course.

I wonder if it could be the ignition switch? I wiggle it, but nothing bad happens. The wiring under the passenger seat, I'm not exactly sure, cuz some of that may have been changed with the subie conversion??

Posted by: chads74 Oct 14 2013, 05:42 PM

Thanks to George aka ThePaintedMan my car is running again. He brought over a good ignition switch, I popped it in and she fired right up. I started looking at the oem switch and noticed the crack in the plastic, guessing that is what causes them to fail. Also, while I had the car apart I wired the passenger seat relay wires together just in case, so it wouldn't give me issues in the future. Thanks for all the help and suggestions!

Edit: car is now that much closer to being ready for the tropical rumble next month.