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Posted by: computers4kids Aug 5 2013, 06:38 PM

I need to remove the bezel on one of my gauges to do some custom work. Do you have any tips or tricks for removing the bezel with the least amount of damage? The only thing that comes to mind is very carefully use a small thin bladed flat screw driver and work it slowly around the gauge under the lip.

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Aug 5 2013, 06:41 PM

I'm currently working on a machine to do just that, but yes a small flat screwdriver gets the job done.

Posted by: balljoint Aug 5 2013, 06:43 PM

Better than a screwdriver, I would recommend making use of a Tim.

Posted by: The Cabinetmaker Aug 5 2013, 07:23 PM

I use a scratch awl (since I have one). Just lay the end under the lip,
and drag it around the gauge slowly. No damage.
Then use the round part of the shaft to roll it back down

Posted by: GeorgeRud Aug 5 2013, 07:24 PM

My guess is that VDO has a machine that crimps the bezels onto the gauge with the idea it's a disposable item that gets replaced when the gauge is repaired.

Anyone have a friend at North Hollywood Speedometer?

Posted by: toolguy Aug 6 2013, 09:56 AM

When putting the bezel back on, I use a hand roller that is suppose to be for installing screen windows beading. . it has a roller with a little groove running down the middle. . . place the grove where you want the bezel to bend and roll it around 'gently'. . . makes a nice consistent curve and will straighten out all the little irregular bends you put in when removing it. .

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 6 2013, 10:12 AM

QUOTE(toolguy @ Aug 6 2013, 08:56 AM)

When putting the bezel back on, I use a hand roller that is suppose to be for installing screen windows beading. . it has a roller with a little groove running down the middle. . . place the grove where you want the bezel to bend and roll it around 'gently'. . . makes a nice consistent curve and will straighten out all the little irregular bends you put in when removing it. .

I liked your method of removal using the hose clamp. And this tip for re-installing one is just as good.

Posted by: r_towle Aug 6 2013, 12:51 PM

Little screw driver.
When all is done, you will never see it.

Don't try to get it all in the first pass or you can kink the edge.
Just go around two or three times in different places to get it all bent up straight.

Tim, if you build a tool, I would love to see what you come up with.

For putting it back on, I would think a large diameter piece of tubing with the correct inside profile, and a rubber mallet would do the trick.

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Aug 6 2013, 01:05 PM

Yep, after being shot down by VDO and other gauge repair shops for information on this top secret tool, I decided to make my own.

When I get mine working, I'll post instructions on how to replicate it by supplying pictures and CAD drawings. So tired of this need to know basis, and I need not know

Posted by: r_towle Aug 6 2013, 01:17 PM

How about something along the lines of a counter mounted can opener.

The tool sits still, the gauge spins.

A knife type attachment gets under the edge and folds up the edge in one turn.
A set of graduated rollers rolls it back in place.

This might work for all size gauges.

Also, do a patent search....should be able to see some drawings.

Posted by: Dr Evil Aug 6 2013, 02:27 PM

When I was doing gauge repair/customization I used a soup can to put the edge back over. A nice can of tomato paste is easy to manipulate. Make sure it is an unopened can as it is easier to use

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 6 2013, 04:30 PM

This is great info...thank you!!
Mark

Posted by: rnellums Aug 10 2013, 01:51 PM

A paint can opener has enough curvature of the blade to fit under the lip, I prefer it to a screw driver.
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Posted by: computers4kids Aug 21 2013, 09:25 PM

OK...I started to convert an extra 3.25 911 clock for my Ghetty dash using a wideband AEM air fuel gauge. I still need to pickup a lense without a hole. Pelican sells glass ones for $20. Do you think a local glass company can cut one?

Secondly, as you can see I left the clock markings on the faceplate to take-up some of the extra space around the 2" A/F gauge.

Do you think I should leave the markings or paint the faceplate black? I'm concerned that if I paint the faceplate black the 2" gauge will look too small.

Another option would be to design an overlay on the computer for the faceplate. I thought that perhaps I could use a font similar to the stock VDO gauges and label that extra space with markings and labels like, lean, stoich and rich.
Ideas? Suggestions?

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Posted by: timothy_nd28 Aug 21 2013, 09:41 PM

How did you remove the clock hands?

Posted by: computers4kids Aug 21 2013, 10:08 PM

QUOTE(timothy_nd28 @ Aug 21 2013, 08:41 PM)