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Posted by: 914ltd Aug 11 2013, 08:25 PM

A real common 914 problem: The tabs mounted on the door post have worn and allow the new check strap to click as it reaches the next detent. A larger pin would eliminate the problem but enlarging the holes on the tabs is a problem with clearance issues. Any bright ideas? Thanks, Brad


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Posted by: Dave_Darling Aug 11 2013, 10:05 PM

You need a buddy with a welder and a six-pack of beer (or other "do-me-a-favor" payment). And a good drill of the right size.

--DD

Posted by: siverson Aug 12 2013, 12:09 AM

> The tabs mounted on the door post have worn

I've wondered about that. Is that where the clicking is coming from? Hmm...

-Steve

Posted by: McMark Aug 12 2013, 12:41 AM

Yup.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Aug 12 2013, 10:48 AM

I had the same problem with my green car. It wasn't too bad opening the hole to .250" and I used a 1/4" pin. I think I reamed it using a reamer and pliers. No room for a proper holder. 6mm =.236 vs .250 this is .007 per side. Considering it already oversize, even less.

Posted by: r_towle Aug 12 2013, 12:10 PM

right angle die grinder with a milling bit attached, or a grinding bit.

Rich

Posted by: 914ltd Aug 18 2013, 05:42 PM

I intended to get the 1/4 ream (thanks, Mark) and report the success of the operation by now. As usual, something else has taken priority. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for your input, Brad

Posted by: partwerks Aug 18 2013, 09:44 PM

Brad,

Would clamping a piece of brass over the hole and spot welding it shut, and re drilling it to the correct size, work??

Posted by: kg6dxn Aug 18 2013, 11:53 PM

I removed the one on the drivers side. Fuch it... Stupid clicking...

Posted by: 914ltd Aug 19 2013, 06:22 AM

The problem is the tabs are too close to the door post. Even a right angle drill won't work.

Posted by: Firstcar Aug 19 2013, 07:02 AM

I used a short bolt with a nylon nut in place of the pin. The bolt was large enough diameter to fill the hole in the stay (1/4"?) and just long enough to secure a nylon nut underneath the tabs. Easy to install and tighten. I tightened the nut just enough to stop the stay from moving and clicking. Not stock, but works great and is reversible.

Posted by: Firstcar Aug 19 2013, 07:04 AM

Make that a nyloc nut (damn spell check)

Posted by: r_towle Aug 19 2013, 11:12 AM

Is this a hand operated tool?
Something like a socket wrench can be used?

There is a kit for this on a 356, and a beetle, same issue really.

rich

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Aug 19 2013, 11:50 AM

I just used a chucking reamer I had in my shop. There really isn't a lot of room to work. I did this a long time age (The car is now scrapped). I think I used either pliers or vice grips to turn it a little at a time. The hole is already oversize so you are not talking off a lot of material. The reamer can then do the lower hole first reaming in the up direction then push through to do the top hole. I think that is how I did it. This way both are the same diameter and in line with each other. 5 to 10 min max to do it

Posted by: cary Aug 19 2013, 09:25 PM

I put in a brass bushing from the little drawers at Ace hardware.
Did it on my 911.

Posted by: Racer Chris Nov 21 2013, 04:14 PM

Like this:


I ground a square on the end of a shortened .250" reamer to fit into the 3/16" square ratchet. Worked perfectly.
We tried several 1/4" clevis pins from McMaster. The best fitting ones were bare steel unfortunately.
A good choice for diy is a 1/4" bolt with long straight shank cut to length and drilled for a cotter pin.

Posted by: Bartlett 914 Nov 21 2013, 06:59 PM

The ratchet is a bit improvement. I think I just used an open end wrench