I'm back in the mix, and getting ready for another 914 restoration. Not sure this will play out as well as it did http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=27647, but we'll give her a go and see what I can come up with!
After I find the right starting-point, here's what I've been dreaming of doing to it.
Subaru EJ20 Turbo 4 engine & Trans. (250-275hp target)
Stiffen up the body. (MAYBE a roll-bar.)
Satin silver paint, blacked-out chrome, black satin rims...with colorful calipers.
I think I've found the right starting-point car (70-1.7 with carbs) so I'll drive it a bit while I'm stock-piling parts. That way I can start the project in earnest this winter while the snow falls.
I'm going to use the 901 side-shift trans I have in my basement to mount up to the EJ20 after I can locate a decent one. That way, I should be able to get everything right and then mount it up a lot easier after I drop the 1.7 out. (Best intentions...always lead to disappointment, but I'll try anyway.)
Things I learned the last time:
* Do the body work all the way up to the primer, then let a pro take it from there.
* It's much easier to work when you have a lot of light.
* Garage heaters are your friend.
* When in doubt...STOP and look for an answer. (Doubling your bad efforts never works.)
* Wearing those blue latex gloves alleviates embarrassing situations in meetings
* The search button is your friend. (Spelling is also...thanks Andy.)
Here we go!
UPDATE: I ended up with a 1975 with a V8 conversion as a starting point.
UPDATE 2: The engine I found had a good Trans on it, so I'm going to have a Subaru 5MT not a 901.
UPDATE 3: 350 is my new HP goal
UPDATE 4: I'm naming the project "Grey Matter" because the car is going to be a lot more than just a restoration. That...and project names are cool.
UPDATE 5: April 17th is the "due date" to have it complete. Not as fast as my last build, but there is a LOT more to this one.
Here's what I'm shooting for as a color combo...but on a Carrera GT.
talk to dbcooper - seems he would have gone suby 6 if he were to do it over - unless I recall a post incorrectly.
though how cool is it to be running a closed deck suby with boost : )
I'm digging through a LOT of threads this week. Looks like I need to decide pretty quickly if I want the 901 transmission, or if keeping it will be more work than it's worth. The idea of buying a complete engine/trans combo that could bolt on a lot easier is appealing. The cable-shift transmission conversion is what has me puzzled right now. I need to plot/plan and talk to a few people first.
I guess Ian is on/returning from his honeymoon, so I'll hold off a few weeks before I make that decision.
Just ordered my steel flares and the rear floorboard. I KNOW I'll need that for either of the cars I'm looking at right now, so it was a safe bet to get them in sooner rather than later. Wish I could remember who I got the door panels from last time. I need to dig into that old email account and see if I can find it. Going to get the chassis stiffening kit too. Sad about Engman...he was a 1-stop-shop for a lot of the things I need this time around.
For that much power you should do a 5MT Subie trans...much better fit for your application. Bolts right up with no problem, no adapter required. We're all muddling through the cable shifter thing but many people have done it successfully. I'll be attempting it in a few weeks myself.
So what engine/trans combo should I be hunting for? I was looking at EJ20G, EJ20H, and EJ208 engines on eBay. There seem to be a lot of variances in what people here are using.
I'm also confused as to if I should be buying with/without the ECU.
Nevermind...figured out that the 5MT is about the ONLY trans that came with the EJ20.
Any 5MT will bolt up but you should look for one that was mated to a "turbo" car. The newer the better is the rule. Mine is from a stock 2006 WRX that had a 2.5T in it. I bolted it to a 3.3L SVX engine. Haven't driven it yet but it LOOKS REALLY GOOD!
Someone else will chime in on the engine piece I'm sure. EDIT: Get the ECU and engine wiring harness for sure.
Here's a thread you might want to check out. ON A PRIVATE ROAD some guy was embarassing kids in their Mustangs and GTOs with his lowly 914 2.0T. I'm sure it wasn't DBCooper though...he was just taping it. Note how quickly the 914 pulls away...
Good to see you back!
So I'm stocking up parts already. Trying to use 914World members wherever possible.
1975 914 w/V8 (xsJerry)
3.5" 911 Struts (sebring66)
Boxster Brake Conversion (a914guy)
986 Brake Calipers (eBay)
Pontiac Solstice Rear-View Mirrors (eBay)
17" Boxster Rims (Cleveland Craigslist)
Steel Flares (dr914)
Fiberglass Rockers (dr914)
10-Piece Chassis Stiffening Kit (dr914)
Still waiting on a set of rotors to materialize that will work.
My assistant's boyfriend wrecked his 03 WRX, so I'm going to grab that motor/tranny and some other assorted parts in a few weeks. I'm not going to tackle the engine swap until the snow flies. At that point, I'll sell off the Renegade V8/901 combo or perhaps just sell the engine locally. (I may be able to just trade it to her BF for the Subaru engine.)
Here we go!
Parts are showing up every day...the car is still stuck in California.
Picked up rear-view mirrors for a Pontiac Solstice.
I'll need to modify them a little bit, but this should be a great starting point for a modern looking mirror.
Make sure you get the "Manual" version and not the electronic. They're the same price (imagine that) but these move a lot easier. (Guy down the street has one, and I tried moving the mirrors manually and they "clicked" across the servos.)
...and they're wrong.
I open box: Sweet!
I read the part numbers: Shit!
Here's what they sent me.
So I got 3 rears and a front. Doh!
Quick email to the seller, and they're going to send me the correct calipers, and take these back. Once I get them, I'll send the calipers and a few other pieces-parts off for powder coating.
Rims I picked up locally off of Craigslist.
$500 for all 4, but they have winter rubber right now, so that'll be fine for placement and the rest of this summer.
Front: 17x7.5 - 205/50-17
Rear: 17x9 - 255/40-17
Thinking about powder-coating them, but another member (jbyron) suggested I'd give PlasitDip a shot. They came out VERY cool...so I'm going to run them this year to see what it holds up like. Not bad for $5.
The wheels look great. I am curious to see how they hold up. Is it just the regular rubber coating or is there a different one?
Just the regular PlastiDip Spray you buy from Home Depoti have the Glossifier spray too, and I'll put a coat of that on tomorrow.
My caps came in today...so I sprayed one to see what it looks like.
Have you considered a vinyl wrap? Uniform colour and sheen. Plus some cool colours. That GT looks like vinyl.
Got the RIGHT calipers in today. They're quite dirty, so I'll get them soda-blasted and headed off to get powder-coated this weekend. I have a set of trailing-arms that I'm going to stiffen, and send off as well. Need to work out the e-brake from a 911 first though. That'll take some fabrication first. I'll wait to powder-coat those until after I have all of that done.
Car should be headed to Cleveland later today, and I'm TOLD I'll have it by the 13th. :woot:
I have the long kit coming as well. Ordered that from Pelican along with a host of other goodies. The GT kit is a "just in case" and didn't add all that much weight, so I figured I'd go for it. The suspension brace isn't a bad idea though. Maybe I'm making it TOO stiff for a road car...
The center caps were on eBay. I think $30 shipped. These fit perfectly, and the Porsche crest is surprisingly nice. (And removable, so if you ever think you need some chrome creasts, those are cheap!
Wait till you all see what I have planned for side-marker lights!
I spent the morning with my son Oliver, cleaning the calipers to send off to Powder-Coat tomorrow. Not entirely sure about the seals and how I should handle them. I'm not all that adept at seal/piston removal, and don't think this is the time to learn. They bake at 400-deg, and the calipers should be able to handle WAY more than that, so as long as they're not getting coated, I should be ok. If they come back cracked, I'll replace them then.
working on the kitchen table ...you have an understanding wife.
She was at the gym working out, and I had it all cleaned up before she got home.
Dropped the Calipers off today for Power-Coat. They took the remaining pieces, and pistons/seals out for me. Media blasted, and are Powder-Coating tomorrow morning.
...and then the spacers I ordered showed up.
2X2" and 2X1"...$100 for all 4 shipped!
Flush them when you get them back.
Then flush them again.
Then flush them again.
Media gets everywhere and likes to hang around in passages.
Sheeesh that's fast. Mine took a month but that was back in 2002.
Wow! that is fast.
When he called this morning, I was expecting the purpose to schedule a time for Thu or Fri to meet. I was floored when he said "tonight, around 9:00pm"
Now, I just need to find a ride out to the drop-off point about that time so I can drive it back!
I'm getting excited...been a while since I've been behind the wheel!
And...I'm back in the game!
Car arrived 2 days ahead of plan. That (for once) sucks, because I didn't have the garage cleaned out yet!
I'll dig in tomorrow and see what I'm dealing with. Overall, I'm pretty pleased. I know I'm getting a lot of flack for this, but the V8 isn't for me. I think the subie is where it's at. 20min of searching for gears and having the cabin heat up like a sweat-tent is enough reason for me.
Rotors came in today too. I hope I can have the breaks swapped out this weekend.
Got the calipers back from powder-coating. They look SICK!
Going to see if I can get the suspension and breaks swapped out tomorrow night. I think I should have everything I need.
Glad to see the car made it there safely Looks like you are having fun driving it I thought it was a nice ride like the V8.
Got the calipers sorted last night. Started rebuilding them, and realized I was missing one seal. Doh! Called the PC place and they have it. :whew:
Also realized I put the wrong adapters on the wrong calipers too. So that'll get fixed tonight.
Stencils just came in too! Got a guy on eBay to sell me 8 for $6.00.
Dude those calipers look like candy. Wow.
Started working on the flares today. Marked everything out before I take it to a friend's to weld them up.
Took the rockers off and the car lost about 11lb. Holy crap.
Oh...and I added a horn. Discovered I didn't have one and about bit it earlier!
Flares are on...time for some banging and bondo this weekend!
Wow that looks great. Did you do those yourself?
Flares on 8 days after taking possession. You guys must be drinking water from the cuyahoga.
Great job....At this rate you should be able to make it to Okteenerfest next month.
If I hadn't JUST driven from ATL to Cleveland 2 weeks ago...I'd happily drive down for Okteenerfest. The car will certainly be on the road.
I was planning on doing the brakes this weekend, but I got screwed by someone that sold me a set of struts...that never arrived. (Nor has the refund.)
I'll be concentrating on bodywork for a bit. Just wanting to get it to primer. I'll have all winter to make the bodywork perfect.
As someone who has done the trailing arm reinforcements you have pictured above, I'd like to suggest you scrap that idea -- it makes 'em uber-heavy. Eric Shea's notion of welding in tubes laterally makes a lot more sense (I shamelessly copied his idea!). Not sure he's still providing that service, but it is much lighter; I ended up practically giving away the "clam-shelled" trailing arms.
Good luck with your project; you're making way better progress than I. I am almost five years into my turbo'd Suby project and keep getting sidetracked with other projects...
If you can break a pinion gear clean off the shaft, you may want to think hard about going to a Subaru and look for a transmission that can handle that motor...
I like pinion gear breaking off.....cool power
Interesting call on the trailing arms. Hadn't thought of it like that...but I guess it would make sense.
I'll be doing the Subie Trans as well. Already bought the EJ20 and MT5 out of a wrecked 07 WRX.
Today's delima: Should I weld all these gaps, or use AllMetal to fill them?
I think the consensus will be to fully spot the entire perimeter.
is this the width gap most have to deal with when installing steel flares???
are you backing this gap with copper plate when you MIG it?
grey black is nice, not sure I am fully sold on it, not sure I am sold on satin finish in general, this grey red combo is somewhat appealing too?
Weld it all.
Most of the gaps between welds are under 1/2", so it would just be another pass to get it solid. I need to hit it with primer pretty quick before it starts to rain. (I really need to get the garage cleaned out!)
I'm moving towards snow-white, or dark grey. I can wrap a satin vinyl later if I want. The look if this 918 is pretty cool. I could do a white/green GT3 type theme like you have pictured.
Either way, I already have the calipers for it.
Worked on welding up the gaps today. My welder took a shit after about an hour, so I'll need to get it fixed before I can weld anything else.
Also discovered that I can't use the 1" wheel spacers, because the bolts hit the inside of the rim. Someone suggested 110mm builds from the hub, and I may just do that. Seems easier.
Making progress though.
what wire are you using?
.025 easy grind?
gloss silver/grey and black, can't go wrong with that.
I was using .23-eg, but honestly, I found .30 easier to weld with. (It's all about the settings.)
I'm really not that pleased with the job I'm doing. I think it has something to do with the motor going kaput on me. It was skipping which really messed me up a few times. I'm going to go over the whole thing and grind it all down to smooth. I won't sleep well until I know it's right.
The more I look at it, the more I like "Sport Classic Gray" as a paint choice...kinda like this.
Terrific work and I love that sport classic grey.
here is what 2 panels of grey gloss rustoleum look like on my car.
I am using it to protect from flash rust temporarily and I wanted to see what grey looked like on my car and it is somewhat close to sport classic grey.
Really love your progress!!!
No . set them up under a small drill press , used a 1 inch hole saw , cut in two spots towards the pivot mount. The hole close to the bearing area is the factory hole for the caliper adjustment. two new holes only , tube goes from outside to inside all the way through. Look at the pic a little closer , you'll see what I have done . Racer Chris did a study of reenforcing trailing arms a while back skipping the clamshell setup . His were a lot more refined than mine , but mine are functional as is , and like I said easy to do.
Got it...only need two.
Here' what I came up with real quick. Do you think this would provide anything additional, or is it a waste of engineering effort?
If I take each of the two and put them at opposing angles, this may be a way to add some additional stability. (Maybe...I'm no engineer.)
I put this illustration together real quick to try and show what I 'm talking about. The red tubes are new. (and it's not exactly to scale, but you get the idea.)
That looks great , if you have the ability to get the different angles , they should be a good way to address the flexing forces . I see that you are upping the horsepower , this should help in getting it to the ground. Racer Chris used some great ideas about strengthening the arms , search for his threads. If I recall ( yeah right ) he cut the arms in half , installed some plates inside at differing angles , welded them back together. It was a way of strengthening with out showing on the outside , something to do with the rules of a racing class. I'd say go for it , won't add as much weight as the clamshells.
I was thinking about making 2 holes at each side, at different points, than putting the pipe through at the angles. Welding up the outside, then grinding them down smooth.
I'm definitely NOT racing this car, so it's just for the street.
No racing for me either . I just had in mind ( where ever it went ) to do some mods that I thought would be more bang for the buck , this was just so easy while I had the arms off to do a 5 lug with 928 / 944 ebrake conversion . Heck when I do get it back together , I'll be inserting a 1.7 that I salvaged from another 914, talk about wheel spinners!!!!
I've got a shit-ton of 1" and 1.5" gas pipe. I wonder if I can/should use that?
Funny...I make one post, and get 10 PMs about selling off my old parts. Looks like I have myself a cradle and trans hangers, so I may be breaking everything down sooner than I originally expected!
Started working on the brakes last night. LOTS of powder to clean up. Tried adding the "Porsche" to the calipers, but I think I need to rough up the surface first. After it dried, I pulled the vinyl off and half the paint came with it. I think I put it on too thick.
O-Well...glad I have more templates!
Looks like I've got just about everything I need to start breaking him down and getting this started.
Got Boxster seats, and I don't think I like them very much. I got a great deal on them, so I'm just going to flip them on Craigslist.
Found a Subaru cradle and Trans hangers...
Ordered the spline couplers from Australia...
Bought a set of adapter flanges...
Driving to Summit Racing to pick up my pedal cluster and master/ slave cylinders...
Got an MR2 shifter and ordered new cables...
...and the engine/ECU should be all ready for mech pick up later this week.
What am I missing?
The calipers were powder-coated...the "PORSCHE" is the only thing I'm painting.
...unless he has an aversion to colored calipers in general. At that point, I'll just call him a racist!
Keep it up, Subaru Gears is pretty fast at shipping their stuff over seas. My little mail fairy dropped these off today. Ordered them Friday or Saturday, I can't remember. Man thats smaller than I thought it would be.
Way to keep plugging away what are you using from Summit for the pedal cluster?
Holy Shit! I thought that thing would be the size of my fist! I guess size doesn't matter after all. :::rushing to tell wife the good news:::
Seriously though. That's awesome that it got te the US so fast.
Not exactly progress on the car, but I spent 10hrs yesterday getting the garage ready.
Lots of stuff in Craigslist right now...hopefully the stuff on the right-side sells so I have more room to work.
hard to tell exactly what color this car is, but seems a version of grey.
I've been out of town for the last week or so in NYC and Las Vegas. Got home today, and plan on spending this weekend working on clearing the rest of the garage out so I can get her up on jack stands and start stripping the tub.
I settled on my paint color last week. I was originally going to do the Porsche Sport Classic Gray but ended up going a little darker than that. I didn't want it to be confused with Primer at all...and think this look will be right in line with what I'm going for.
So...I went to Sherwin Williams and bought the whole shooting match. Etching primer, 2K primer, and the basecoat (94937). The shop that I'll have the last coat, along with the clear done at is a SW shop, and SW is a client of my company, so I got a pretty good deal on everything.
Here's what the car SHOULD look like when I'm done. At least that's what I'm shooting for.
Looks like you are making great progress, it's going to look great.
Digital progress. Get out the the garage slacker.
Alright Mark...I'm in the garage!
Got to the "Donor WRX" today to start pulling stuff. I have NO idea how much of the wiring harness I'll need, so I just grabbed all of it. Every inch of wire from the entire car. I'm sure it's overkill, but I'd rather have more than not enough.
Ian told me last week "do yourself a favor and just send the wiring harness off to Small Car Performance" and I think I'm A-OK with that, after seeing the magnitude of what is needed for the wiring. There's 60LB of stuff here, and I'll bet I get 10lb back.
Also have most of the engine out of it. We just sawzalled the front clip so we could get a little deeper into it without restriction. I should have everything off in a week or so as I get closer to pulling the V8 out of my 914.
I'm toying with the idea of having someone else re-build the motor. Just to be on the safe side. I'd rather KNOW I'm starting with something that's solid. Besides, now is the time...right? I can also put some upgrades inside and add a few HPs in the meantime.
So...that's a little progress. Right?
i'm liking your final color choice - glossy dark grey.
I read that small car performance has a DYI wiring kit for around $200 but not sure what it includes.
this guy may be a good source for a wiring redo too?
I reached out to this guy - jeff - and here is his reply.
Yep I do harnesses for people. No website just an ad on thesamba.com
I charge $550 to modify and run on the test stand. I do have a few harnesses and ecm's. I charge $800 for it if I supply.
Decided to skip the Boxster seats, and took the seats I had in my basement to an upholstery shop today.
Going with a dark gray leather outer, and suede centers. Should take them 6-8 weeks so that's fine by me.
What are they charging you for the seats????
I've got a nice complete grey leather interior
Been holding off selling it but times are changing
since I now know that they have not started yet reupholstering your seats, I will comment.
I am not sure how easy it will be getting in and out of car with suede on seats??
I think I would stick with all leather, though I understand the keep-butt-planted benefit of suede
looking forward to your review.
Yeah you got into the "hard labor" stuff this weekend didn't you? I was sore for days. Good job!
You did the right thing by nabbing the whole wiring harness. Read the fine print and you'll see Small Car will not take one if it's been cut. Found that out a week too late . Its cool that the engine and trans are from the same car. Total compatibility. Don't want to deter you from modding that engine but it's highly unlikely that it needs a rebuild. How many miles again? It'll look much cleaner and less cluttered when you take the power steering pump and pulley off and some of those hoses and whatnot. I think you can remove the EGR stuff as well (I did). You kept the ignition key and switch right? The key is chipped I think and the car won't start with the stock ECU without it.
The center diff is worth $250-$300 on NASIOC. It'll be gone in a day or two once you post it. Sold mine immediately for $250. Apparently they are the weak spot for 4WD.
Yeah I would grab the key and ignition switch (grab the whole steering column actually if you still have it). Pretty sure you need it. Kent mentioned it and his is an 01. Many folks are integrating the donor steering column into the 914. Mike Bellis' (kg6dxn) monster Audi turbo conversion is drive-by-wire and it turned out great. Don't let it scare you too much (said the guy with the 95 OBD1 car ). Take a look at his thread. There's also the option to use an aftermarket ECU, which gets you out of the harness cutting/have to use the Subie key game and allows you to tune the car with a laptop on the fly. Someone with more knowledge will post a link to the place (outfront motorsports maybe?) where you can find Link, Stinger, and other aftermarket ECUs. They are like $1500 but Smallcar would have charged you $800 to cut your harness. Then you can sell the stock stuff also, even though I know cost isn't really your concern as much this round.
I'm out running around today but good luck man!
Hmmm....maybe I need to get over there and grab a few more things before I go too far.
I think sometimes with cars with chips in their keys, ecu's need to be flashed/reset somehow?
Ha. Forgot that I left the ECU at the shop too. Guess I'll need to run over and grab that too.
It'd be cool to have the ignition on the dash like the 911 and 914/6 if there was a way to do it. Hmm....
70lbs of wiring harness has been in the corner...staring at me...mocking me. I say "Screw you wiring harness!"
http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/ems_computers.htm + $1,400 = EMS Stinger and the wiring harness to 'plug and play' my way to less headache.
Anyone else been this route?
Now I'm off to put 70lb of copper on eBay with the ECU.
AEM’s Series 2 Programmable Engine Management System is another one. It looks to be a little bit more but is newer. Have you looked at what Cobb's acessport can do with the stock ecu? The whole idea of the key and transponder with the stock ecu really sucks. I was also tryng to imagain the key alla 914/6 in the dash. I guess you eliminate 914 key and wire it to subaru key?
Got me some parts today! Getting closer!
Perrin Equal-Length headers
STI Oil Pan (so the headers fit)
Crucial Racing 3" Divorced Down-Pipe (After researching, this pipe is worth what I paid for everything.)
914Rubber.com "every damn seal" kit.
1Q of Por15
Yeah, now THOSE are man-sized flanges.
Mine is a EG33 but Outfront wants a little more than the website would lead you to think. "All we need is the core wire harness for the plug ends and your cam gears
for modification. The price is $180 for the gear modification and $1700 for
the computer, wire harness, programming, and igniters."
Yep $1880, SDS wants $1800. MegaSquirt 3 Pro, and all the items needed to get it going. $1674 with lots of Ebay scrounging. Not sure its really a savings.
Nice score on the header, up pipe, and down pipe.
Oh and wear gloves for the POR-15,that crap is nasty stuff.
Those pipes might look good powder coated. Just sayin'.
I'll polish them soon...but I think I'm going to heat-wrap them, so I may not bother. I've heard that ceramic-coating is better though...and won't catch fire if oil gets on it.
I keep going back/forth on the Megasquirt. The Stinger is already dialed-in and works...that's worth something to me. Plus, I see a lot of guys with subie-914s that are using a Stinger...that counts for something too! True it's 2X as much...but I'd rather not feel like I have to mess with it. I've spent the last few days on the MS forums, and these people never seem happy...or to be running right.
Be careful with heat wrap. While it will keep the heat in and help with scavenging, it will also heat cycle the metal making it brittle.
Just about every header manufacturer's warranty is voided by using this stuff.
I had a set of 14ga headers on a V8 grenade on me. Both sides of the engine within a few minutes of each other while driving from SF to LA. I had them wrapped for about 12 months...
(wrap) it is amazing, how daily, we learn about more things we never knew : )
I didn't even think about that. Maybe I'll just wrap by the area that's closest to the oil pan.
Headed out today to get Bigger injectors (650cc), fuel rails, and a turbo off of an STI. (Vf39) I want the fastest spool possible. If I go too big on te turbo, I'll spend more time in "lagville" than I want.
Then all I need is the engine mounts and I think I've got about 90% of what I'll need for the build.
I wanted "one last drive" today, but it's pouring rain and my flanges are still bare metal. Bummer...
I don't think I'm going to worry about it. If I leave it alone, that'll be one less thing to go wrong. It's not like this is my DD, so I'll tinker with that later.
Another shipment of stuff showed up today. Got all my lug nuts and bolts so I can put the spacers and 17" rims on. Woot!
Hey Doug... just happened to check the Garage out and saw your name... long time man. I can't believe that's your son... he was just born the last time I saw you.. time flies.
Great thread.... nice build for sure. That will be fun. I don't spend much time in the Garage now-a-days but I will make a point of ducking out of the sandbox from time to time to see how things are going. I'm still teener-less with one more project to go before I can even think about acquiring another one but will enjoy watching this for sure.
OMG... that is funny... that makes sense as Spencer was like 5 or 6 when we "disposed" of that car
He is now 14!
That is funny about that car... the only redeeming value was the wheels I got from you and apparently that tranny
I just finished my TR6 (see thread in sandbox) and have the MCG left to go... love to come up and shoot the stuff with you or you come down and see the MG's and Triumph.
Let me know if you need help... Congrats on the second little one... hows the Doc?
Garage progress time! (See Mark...I was listening.)
Got over to the shop last night and worked to pull the EJ20 and get it to where I can put it in MY garage and start working on it. I'm actually thinking of leaving it at the office where I have a little more space to work. I won't have all my tools, but there's a lot more space here and the lighting is a ton better. Plus, I can hide it from SWMBO for a bit. ;-)
Got the engine pulled, and safely in the back of my land rover. We used a crane to get it in there, and I have NO clue how I'm going to get it out of there on my own. I was thinking about letting the air out of the tires in the back enough to get it hooked to the engine stand I bought.
Parts fairy came...
Valve cover gaskets
New bearings for timing belt
Water to air intercooler, fan, pump, radiator
Uppie and downie gaskets
And some green vacuum hose for good measure.
did you take your LAST drive yet : )
you may need a second car
Ha! Well...I woke up this morning to 3" of snow. So if say we're done for the year.
I'm going to take everything to the office in the morning so I can start building the motor there. I have plenty of space...and it's heated. :-)
That looks like a bad-ass build.
Who's gauges are those? They look awesome.
Well that and it's not centered.
That's a pretty respectable top-speed for a 914. LOL...
What? Ah... yours isn't running yet... I forgot. At about 120 mine was nowhere near done but I realized I wasn't young and crazy any more.
Oh, my V8 will get there...but I'm not confident in the car's ability to stay together. Once I have this project done, I'm quite certain I can get there!
Aw, I forgot to add the little poker guy: I had no concern about the car, my problem was all me.
Found a warm place to work on the motor...at the office!
We have a lot more space than were using, and there's a room in thr back that was full of junk anyway. Heated. Concrete floor. Next to the freight elevator. Perfect!
is that a can of vernors on the floor?
you joined today and your location is bhopal!!?? i'm not going to open that link for any reason.
That's a spam bot.
I got a lot done this morning. Broke down the engine to all but the timing belt and pulleys. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar, trying to get the crankshaft pully off. Going back tomorrow and bringing a torch!
Also had fun with my new Soda Blaster today. That's going to be a useful addition!
It was you asking about a custom harness for Megasquirt, wasn't it? Here's one from Mario at The Dub Shop, still on the fab board. I think it's for an EJ22, but not that much different:
Makes things pretty close to plug and play. I did the EMS Stinger in my car, but if this had been around back I probably would have done this.
I got this tool, you can borrow if you want.
i think it should have a rod welded on for a handle though for stability.
i believe it is for suby crank pulley removal.
DB: I got a deal on a Hydra EMS 2.7 over at NASIOC, so I'm going to give that a whirl first. I can always buy the stinger later.
Jim: Thanks for the offer. I am going to give it another crack tomorrow with some heat...and a new breaker bar. :-)
mgp: I had the same thought...double checked at a couple different places.
Counter clock wise, just popped mine off the EG33. Of course I have this nice 36" long breaker bar, and a flex plat lock I made out of a bolt and a piece of flat steel. Took nothing. I will say this sometimes it seems Japanese motors are not assembled by torque specs. I had a crank bolt on a Honda that took a 6' long cheater, thank you DOM, and another one that long to hold the crank still, finely with an extra 260 pounds of force it busted loose. Luckily it was in the car. But come on does it really take 1560 Ft. Lbs. to bust a crank bolt, yes it does.
Half inch impact wrench, which is how they're put on. Those wrenches usually rated at 300 ft/lbs, but the impact is the key in breaking those loose.
Well, crap. No clue how I'm going to get my impact wrench to the office.
I bought another 1/2" breaker bar. 26" this time...and found a 6' gas pipe I'll use too. If that doesn't do it, I'm taking this thing to a subaru dealer and asking them if they have any bright ideas.
Did you blast it with some penetrating oil? Might want to do that for a day or two. Then the breaker bar/pipe should work. Just take it easy so you don't snap the bolt head off. It'll most likely break loose with that combo...I had to use a cheater pipe.
Good plan Chris. I'll grab some PB blaster today and start spraying it. I'll be out of town for a few days this week, so I'll hit it good before I leave tomorrow too.
I'm thinking about replacing the pistons/rods/valves while I have it all broken down. I've come this far...think it's worth the effort? Seems like another $800-$1k at this point would make sure that I'm not going to have an issue down the line.
Just met with the shop that's going to do all the body work and paint after I get everything welded in. They think 3-4 weeks and about 40-80hrs of work to do the car right. I think if it takes $5K for the body to be perfect...I can live with that. I want a car that I won't ever sell...and won't feel like I compromised on anything. Something I'll have for a very long time.
I'm also making plans to build a rotisserie for it. I think I'm going to use 2 1,000lb engine stands and weld up a more substantial base so I can rotate everything and raise it up. If I could find a cheap one locally, that'd be the way to go, but I'm thinking for about $300 in metal and parts I can get it done.
The only thing I don't have is the head gaskets. I was thinking of picking those up for good measure, but there aren't any leaks right now so I'm not sure it'd be worth the effort unless I was doing everything.
Motor ran great before the wreck. It even started up afterwards and sounded real smooth. Perhaps I just won't bother.
In other news: My 911 3.5" Boge struts FINALLY arrived from Carrera Parts. Actually in decent shape. They also gave me a set of trailing arms for the trouble. Hmmm.
Wow...buy a lottery ticket!
Yeah same here on the head gaskets...I do have 'em (only because they came with the kit and the engine has 140k), but since you have to take the engine pretty far apart to change them I'll wait until they are needed. It's highly unlikely you will need them for a while.
So would you suggest doing it as a "while I'm in there"?
I'd rather not pull it down this far again.
For me when I looked at the procedure and the exploded view diagram of the EG33 I decided no, I'll wait, and it might be above my level of competence anyway. Might be a bad call on my part, we'll see.
On yours my thinking is with 60k miles it really SHOULD be fine for a long time yet, and you'd be loosening and re-tightening stuff that was done by the factory, etc. Hopefully we'll get more opinions. There's a guy on my thread who did an EG33 swap into an Impreza. He's a well known member on rs25.com. Might want to ping him as he seems to be a general Subie expert (BRZCory). That forum is a lot kinder to questions than NASIOC BTW.
Couple of updates:
Got the rest of my Subaru engine stuff yesterday. Head gaskets, TGV gaskets, and an aluminum alternator pulley. I also talked to a guy that is local, and builds the engines for race applications. He's going to do the TGV delete for me, and we're going to discuss rods/pistons/valves and what I'm going for. I also picked up a VF39 Turbo, so with the calculations that he put together for me, without anything else, and a bit of tuning, I should be north of 325hp to the wheels. He's pumped because says ~325hp is screaming fast in an STI...which is about 1,000lb heavier than what I'm putting it in. Fun times!
Oh...and I bought a rotisserie. ;-)
I have a G20 turbo. I expect around 300 at the wheels. A 300 Hp subie is a blast to drive, so, like you, having 800-1100 lbs less as well as a lower center of gravity should make our cars an absolute blast.
If memory serves, I remember a story about stoplight racing a Maserati in Vegas with a 2.0 turbo 914. the Maserati could not out accelerate or out brake him. With this kind of HP, we are looking at serious performance.
I removed of all 4 fenders and replaced with FG as well as FG hood and trunk, I think I lost another 100-150 lbs in the process. I did add weight back in with a GT kit and long kit. I also removed all of the tar (replaced with lizard skin) and replaced the steel gas tank with an Aluminum cell, lost the headlight motors and all of the smog stuff.
At this point, I am both looking forward to getting the car weighed and worried about enough weight to keep my 9 and 11's planted. I will probably be adding weight to specific locations to corner balance the car.
when i bought the leg wagon it came with a binder of receipts. one bill for a failed radiator and all that went with it and "while you're in there", the shop installed new cyl/head studs. is that a 'standard' procedure when you tear these engines down? sorry for the hijack
Same thing, 97 Legacy GT wagon back in the day, DOHC 2.5. New gaskets and the Subaru recommended coolant at 60K, kids used it to commute between school in California and home in Texas. Went another 120K miles with reckless dumb-ass teenage boys, racing and offroading, pretending to be rally drivers, never a problem again.
rule of thumb from the subaru guys here. if the motor is pre 05 just change the head gasket. Unless you have a receipt that it was done, you will not be happy.
I would install ARP head studs while i'm in there, and get the torque lube. They are supposed to be torqued, lubed.
Hate paying for them, love the quality of the hardware though. Keep the deck down on my TDI, 40 psi of boast, never a problem.
ARP Studs/Lube: Already ordered.
Gaskets: Already in-hand. For $200, it's not worth worrying about it. I've come this far, and can clean a few things up while I'm there and see if I have other issues. Now is the time...right?
Not a lot of progress...but a lot of parts showed up today.
New rear trunk floor, head gaskets, ARP head studs, TGV gaskets, Fuel Rails, Blaupunkt Stereo, Targa seal...stuff like that.
Oh...and spraying that drive-shaft bolt 2X daily with PB Blaster for a three days did the trick. Well, I still needed a 4' breaker bar...but I got it off!
Picked up my Rotisserie from Garland on Saturday. I was up in Detroit to help my brother look at a couple Aeromates up there. We didn't buy either of them, but sure had a great time meeting with John and looking at all his awesome 914s. Wow.
So I've got a rotisserie in pieces, and a car that's still too much "together" to do anything with it yet. Maybe I'll see if I can set a record for the fastest 914 disassembly.
Sorry I missed you while you were up here. Had Harpo and BS Chairman over putting the back light and interior in the 6. Got the engine put in on Sunday.
Enjoy the rotieserie, it made the rust-or-ation much easier.
Let me/us know what modifications you did to it. I made a print of it for reproduction in the future.
Just in case, there is a Part Duex....
Ha! Yeah, I was going to stop by, but we were in Detroit 3h longer than we'd planned already, and were running out of time.
Glad to hear that it's finally coming together for you.
Today's progress involved loading my motor up and sending it to a proper ship to get checked out. Matt from Slick Motorsports knows a thing or two about building 800HP Subie motors. I'm not looking for anything that crazy, but he's going to have everything cleaned, machined, and checked out for me before I start rebuilding it.
So it looks like it's about time to start breaking down the rest if the car to get it ready for some time on this rotisserie I've got now.
wow - blasted looks great - gonna paint or powder?
I think cadmium-like plate would be nice?
Going to just paint. I'm not going to go crazy with the powder back there. Gloss black epoxy paint will be great and be easy to clean. I've thought about the hammered looking paint too. Going to try a few things to see what I like before I paint them.
I also need to weld a bit to the trailing arms. I'm going to tube them first before I paint.
Got the computer (Hydra EMS 2.7) and a "flying lead" harness.
TurboXS Exhaust showed up.
Heads and Valve covers dropped off at the machine shop for cleaning and a check-up.
Block is being broken down and the pistons are going to get coated and re-ringed.
...and I'm off to Austin to watch cars go vroom!
USGP Formula 1 race.
Cool! Have fun!
Looking forward to more of your build!
So...we've got the motor torn apart and starting to get it back in shape.
Heads looked great. They're off being cleaned and bead blasted. New guides and seals is a they need.
The pistons look a little crusty, and there's a little gauging by the skirts. Perfect opportunity to have it boated out .5mm and replace the pistons. I'm going to leave the rods alone. They're just fine. I'm not sure a set of forged rods are going to do a lot for me.
Picked up Wiseco K588M925 Pistons
Your like a mad scientist.
Turns out I needed new bearings too. So...we're just going to do it all. Why not. I'm going to have a "built" motor, and the end result (according to my builder) should be north of 380fpt at the wheels. I got a set of PPG 1-3rd gear and a cryo'd Trans center shaft for a song, so I'll be able to push north of 600hp if I so desire down the road.
This is a never ending hole at this point, but I'm quickly running out of things to replace, and he's going to start building it all back up next week, and I'll have the whole motor/Trans completed in about 3 weeks.
At that point, I'll fit it in the car. Since I'll need to cut out some of the trunk for the Turbo and Starter, I want t do that before I have the car soda blasted and the body work started.
Not a ton of progress. Waiting on the motor to come back from the machine ship before we start rebuilding it. Also having the headers and up-pipe ceramic coated while the frame I bought from Ian is being powder-coated.
Getting close to build time. Just need to get the engine here and fitted so I can cut everything out that needs to be cut, and get the body off to the shop for the work to be done.
In the meantime, I also got all new gauges that I'm going to try and put into the VDO housings, with some new white (or silver?) dials in having made.
Got the equal-length headers ceramic coated, and had the awesome engine/Trans mount from Ian at ColdWater914.com powder coated to match the Boxster brake calipers. I'm also going to have them do a few more pieces for me in green and polish the aluminum on the air intake. This is starting to come together quickly. I should have the engine built in the next week or so.
Love the "awesome engine/Trans mount from Ian at ColdWater914.com" can't wait until the day comes that I can order one! LOL.
Got to work in the garage yesterday. After the seats came out, I started poking around under the tar. There a bit of rust, but nothing that's perforated and at this point, it's not worth replacing the entire floor.
So...I started scraping. Heat-Gun + Paint scraper = blisters & cheap therapy.
Funny, it took me a while to get rid of the green.
Damn. That's hot...and pretty much exactly what my Subie engine will look like when it's done.
Love the color you put on your cradle.
Got most of my silicon tubing, blow off valve and new radiator today. More fun this weekend.
Met a great guy down here who does really nice fab work.
Bailed on the idea of re-making my own gauge faces, and ordered a custom set from New Vintage USA. One of them is custom, and the tach needs to be made from a different casting so it'll be larger, but I think this is going to look bad-ass.
Now I need to find some switches from an airplane so I can complete the look for lights, hazards, and the heater and defrost. It'll be cool as hell to have this look more like a cockpit.
Got the whole front end torn out today. I have a fairly funny group of "DAPO" pics. This is the one that pisses me off though. No way I could have known until the radiator and '75 bumper brackets were removed.
Looks like it got hit on the pass-front enough to knock it in about 1/2". Not sure how I'm going to fix this, but I'll tackle it after I get everything else yanked. Any suggestions on how to push this back out? BAH?
Did it get wacked to fit the radiator in? It almost looks like you could use a puller and straighten that out.
I used to do all the coatings for crucial,cobb crawford and many other subaru companies I surprised to see and uncoated crucial down pipe..Let me know if you need any help with the heads or turbo
From what you can see in that pic most likely it got hit with the fat black bumpers on it so the bumper and shock absorbed most of the impact. That's a good thing. That brace (slightly bent piece) is VERY strong. Doubt the flare would have lined up if you had a serious problem. No idea how to fix it though but someone will.
That's really good to hear Chris...and makes total sense. I'll just whack it with the BFH and keep working then.
In other news:
Ordered enough wire to re-make the entire harness.
Working on finding a radiator that'll let me add a space-saver spare.
Picking up the heads tomorrow so I can get the engine back together.
Sold the engine and all the related pieces/parts, so I need to get that crated up and ready to move.
This is more of what McMark would call "digital progress" but it needs done at some point.
These are the plates I'm fabricating for the dash and gauges. 1/8" aluminum that'll be anodized to match the Momo steering wheel. The backing material will be a perforated black vinyl, and these will bolt over that. I'm removing the heater controls, and hopefully having two discrete fans that will either be on rheostats or 2-stage switches for Defrost and Cabin.
C-Loop guards between the switches, and the toggles have green LEDs at the tip when "On". I'm also thinking about re-locating the key to left of the wheel. Still up in the air on that one though.
Nav is a TomTom unit that I have gutted out to have it mounted in the center console with an external antenna.
I'm going to end up with a 100% custom dash to accommodate the gauge cluster. Guess I'll fab that up soon too.
West marine makes some really nice switch plates.
Makin' a motor.
Wiseco forged pistons
Manley forged rods
King XPG bearings
...lots of good stuff.
And here are the heads. Freshly rebuilt/honed/floated.
Ops wrong form.
Gauges from New Vintage are all done. (Looks like he borrowed Andy's camera.)
Engine is almost ready to come home and meet up with the transmission!
Killer-B oil pickup and a new STi Oil Pan. (so I can use equal length headers)
Looking good Doug. Hope your in town next time I'm passing through.
Keep it up!
Hopefully we'll get a better shot of those gauges. I want to know if you can actually read the speedo past about 40mph. I've prototyped three digital dashboards now just trying to get legible speed information...
[edit: meaning, not obscured by the steering wheel at freeway speeds]
Well, I'll have them tomorrow or Thursday. I'll take pics immediately and let you all know. I had him do a custom Green LED light inside all of them, so it should look pretty good.
Got the gauges today. Lots of other goodies too, but I needed to be in the garage working...not looking at all the boxes.
So here's a quick shot of them. They look SPECTACULAR in person. This is going to be a great build!
Oh! Those are sweet!
They do look great. What's up with the 4 mph?
Good catch Mike. I hadn't noticed that.
I'm waiting for the Alcantara to show up so I can mock up a panel and see if this is going to work.
This weekend, I'm concentrating on getting this puppy stripped out and ready for the body shop.
Spent a few days this weekend hitting the garage. The more time I spend, the more rewarding he effort.
Interior is stripped out, and I gutter the doors. Took advantage of a break in the weather yesterday and soda-blasted the door parts. Take a look at the before/after. I blasted them for about 60sec, and then dunked in warm soapy water afterwards. Quick spritz with some WD-40 to protect the metal and we're jamming.
I need to take another pic or two of the interior. I've since removed the dash.
Sweet! Keep it going!
I found it on eBay. Actually, it was less than I said. $160 shipped.
The quality is seriously outstanding, and there are a lot of things that I didn't expect to have leads for. It also came with the relays for Hazards, blinkers, horn, and starter.
I was all set to order all the wire separately, but this was so much cheaper. I figured at the least, I'd have 30' of 20 different wire colors, which I couldn't buy for less than $200. This came with a modern fuse panel and everything else needed. The bag in the picture has pieces of 3" shrink wrap with all the circuits and the fuse number pre-printed so you can re-mark the wires after you cut them to length. What a time saver!
Almost don't with the motor.
Replaced every bearing on the timing belt. Replaced the water pump, upgraded to a bigger oil pump, new belt and guides, and I even got the shield painted "Grabber Green" before reassembly.
Nice! I love that green.
Modern engines have so much more flexibility for colors.
I'll take pics of the manual it came with. That has everything listed so you get an idea of what's there.
Spent the day getting everything out of the front trunk. I'll finish up tomorrow and then start working on the suspension. We're getting there.
I hit the garage today...and hit it hard. Spent 10hrs, and got a lot accomplished.
Got the trunk and good off. Removed the rear trailing arms, suspension, CVs, and then started on the trans and engine. I'm doing all of this myself, so I'm making use of the rotisserie I bought. I'll get the car down low, remove the bolts on the engine and trans, and then raise the car up 3' and scoot it out safely. Great plan I think.
Anyways. I'm going to put these arms and hubs up for sale in the classifieds. I have another set, and there's no sense in wasting these.
Ok...we're starting to get organized here.
Now that I have the gauges, wiring harness, and all the switches acquired, I thought I'd go through everything JUST to make sure I wasn't forgetting anything.
Put all the LED switches, knobs, spacers, and bolts into baggies.
Got the power window motors, door lock actuators, alarm, loom, and heated seat pads in a box, and ready to go. Seat covers ordered from World Upholstery.
Oh...and I have a new pic for the DAPO Pictures thread. No clue WTF the thought was behind the silicone.
I also started laying out the rear trailing arms and had a question about the L bracket on the Tangerine 911 P-Brake conversion. Should I weld this to the arm or this bracket?
To give everyone an idea of where I'm headed, I mocked up the shifter and started to mock the ret of the dash.
Yes Mark...I know..."Digital Progress" doesn't count.
I have already made a few changes, so this is proving to be invaluable.
That's gonna be really nice!
That is going to look good.
Give a lot of thought to the shift boot as you go.
I was thinking of starting a thread on "show us you're cable shift, shift boots".
The problem I have is my shift knob and the top of the center console are very close.
I wanted the opening on the console as small as possible and I wanted it covering the linkage but that high up on the shift shaft you are getting full swing of the shaft. That is putting a lot of demand on a short boot with a lot of movement. I have still not come up with a boot design that I like. I may have to make my opening bigger and lower.
I playing with Adding some height up front and drop the shifter down in the back. That will change how my center console will play out.
Tigre81 stopped by today to buy my rear trailing arms, and gave me a hand getting the SB350 out if the car. I COULD NOT have done that on my own. Holy crap is that thing heavy!
Tomorrow I'm going to weld some braces into the door jams so I can get it on the rotisserie and start making her do backflips!
Then I stopped by my motor builder to talk about the wiring harness and what I need to keep before I start rebuilding the harness. She's looking purdy!
Composite TGV deletes and the intake manafold look great. He should have everything ready to come home in another week.
Wasn't quite 100% on that green timing belt cover but it looks really good fully installed. Way better than leaving it black. That engine is gonna scream. Hope you got some good scratch for that V8 motor...Edelbrock INTAKE MANIFOLD...sweet.
Call Summit Racing and see if they have any left over crates from their engine program. You live close so you could pick up.
Worked a bit in the garage trying to make a brace for the doors and got frustrated. So I ended up working on some ideas for the upholstery today.
I'll get back in the garage tomorrow and see if I can get her upside down. :-)
Playing with LED Blinkers today. I'll do a different thread on them later.
Got into the garage and welded the tubes in the rear triling arms.
Made a template that came in 3.5" in the center, and then at 6.5", I came in an inch. Did that on both sides, and it worked real well.
My welds are getting better.
Those blinkers are bright. I'm liking that.
I'm using 1/4" smoked plexiglass to make custom lenses all around. Making my own baskets behind the plexi will let me use just about anything I want.
I loved that the Grote lights were rectangles, mimicking more closely the original tail lights.
Here's what I'm using for the front lights. These are almost the perfect size for the front markers, and with the right baskets, will work real well. I'm going to float these inside the existing baskets, and put some white LEDs behind it to use like Halo DRLs.
I'm gutting the plexi this week, and will get this mocked up so I can see if it'll fly. Who knows.
Here are the tail lights I used. Available at Summit for about $20ea
Oliver (5) wanted me to post this pic, because he thought it was about the coolest thing in the world. He and Garrett (7) were trying to convince me to put the engine in the FRONT so they could put seats in the back and ride back there.
Cute kid. Don't you wish you were his height when working on your teener?
Nice LED modules. Grote does a lot of vehicle lighting, especially trucks.
For the front markers, what angle of dispersion do those lights have? This is an issue with LEDs as most of their light is perpendicular to the board which they are mounted on.
If those LEDs are like others, the maximum intensity is 90 degrees from the board. Thus if you mount them with the slant of the front marker lens, the maximum light will point upwards in that direction. Some light will project parallel to the road but most will be aimed upwards.
Can you do different intensities with the front markers? If so, just blink the whole thing at a higher intensity for better visibility.
Ok...last post today. More "digital progress" but I figured out all the dimensions for the new center console tonight. Mocked it all up in Sketchup, and I'm getting closer.
I'll to the top of the dash tomorrow and try to get the backpad done as well. This is really pretty helpful, as I can take measurements and then input everything so I don't waste a bunch of material.
I'm going to cover the piece with the Alcantara I scored today. Found 96" X 60" piece for $175. This will give me enough to do the seat centers and all the oter bits and pieces I'm hoping to cover. I'd LOVE to make it out of fiberglass, as the weight may get pretty significant if I'm using wood, but we'll see what kind of time I have in the end.
Anyways...here's a pic of the center console.
Doh! You missed your turn. You were supposed to take the Holland Tunnel exit!
I had something similar in mind. However I flipped the led to the top. Easier to read and glance at.
I am rethinking that as well. Maybe a mount that I can actually reach while locked int my seat..
Worked on my door brace last night. I need to stretch out 1/8" on the top of the pass door. Came up with a good brace for now. Just need to replace it with one that presses against the door plates now so I can weld everything else up.
Since it's sub-zero and snowing sideways, I decided to work on stuff in the house today. I did a thread on it ( http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229257 ) but here's what my front marker lights will look like.
Garrett (7) was my helper today. He mostly just sat by the heater and kept me company. That was A-OK by me.
We built door braces and welded them up so we can get the rotisserie going. This is going to help a LOT as I finish up the welding on the flares, and contemplate a roll-bar idea I have.
"sub-zero and snowing sideways" Yeah right!
Have you come up with plan on how you will add nomenclature to your cockpit panel.
After I got back from my 2 day camping / surf trip, up north, I found this:
911? No respect.
That was yesterday! Today I had cabin-fever and wanted to get some work done!
That decal system looks interesting. I was going to do vinyl and then clear-coat over, but that looks a lot nicer. I actually least have that laminator at the office, so all I really need is the kit. Hmmmmm.
Got the braces welded in to place (on plates) last night, so I'm ready for "full-rotisserie-action" tonight. I've GOT to get this things stripped the rest of the way down so Mr. Sandblast Guy can get started with his part.
The "expander" I made up (still attached at one end in the photo) worked well enough for me to stretch out the gap by 1/8" before I braced it. I plan on re-welding the hell hole repair the PPO did, and I believe that'll ease it up enough to the point I won't have to worry about it springing back.
I also worked on my "Rendering" a little bit. Used a pic of my actual rims and calipers.
Spent time last night stripping the tub and getting her ready to head over to the sand-blaster this weekend. The pile of things for the powder-coater is getting bigger and bigger too.
Picked up the windshield today. So I've got that taken care of now too. If I can get the tub back from sand and primer by next weekend...I'll be ahead of schedule for being on the road by April 15th.
Shit ton of work done today in the garage. Went in at 9a...left at 6:30 to watch the game. Got the tub cmpletely stripped...except for the steering rack. I'll get that off tomorrow and I should be able to get the tub to the sand blaster on Tuesday!
I'm a little discouraged at the Hell Hole repair. Looks a little suspect, and there's a lot of bondo up top. Also, the battery tray is BOLTED into place. That's just strange.
I also have a pile of crap to take to the powder coater tomorrow. A-Arms, Dust Covers, Struts, and a bunch of random stuff.
I bolted my tray in also. I figured it would rust, so when it did, I would just u-bolt and bolt in a new one. Jon Lowe suggested it when I did the hell hole on my 914.
Come to think of it, theres no rust on that tray, and I use AGM batteries.
Also glad to see the decal system, I was heading towards vinyl myself, but this system will let me do other things also, so yeah. Nice to see its what Mark used for his quad gauge, now if I can just figure out the proper font.
After watching the "http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=78501" for several months, I'm starting to think about the rear trunk, and how I can maintain access to the motor, while keeping my trunk intact as well.
I'm not sure on ALL the dimensions yet, but this is the general idea. Put a hinge up there to let me mount the computer and wiring, then be able to lift it up if needed. The green box is my hYdra-EMS computer, and the blocks are the screw-down terminals for marrying the stock harness to the aftermarket ECU.
Dropped off a ton of stuff to the Powder Coater today.
Front suspension, brake dust guards, and a mess of other little knick-knacks. This is the box that's being powdered a "Muted Chrome" while the other pieces (not pictured) will be the green.
I snapped a pic of what the combo should look like together.
Those will be pretty when completed.
So, I had an idea on the way home about the steering wheel. Since the top of the wheel is normally in the way...why do I need a top to my wheel?
I had an extra Momo wheel in the garage, so I thought I'd play a little bit.
Here's the wheel I had. I played with some tape to see what part I'd want to take off.
Then...I got to cuttin!
I used parts of the "discarded" foam to make caps for the cut part.
Then to the University of Google for a "Baseball Stitching 101" class. Played with some old vinyl I had that I was considering using for something else.
Boy...do I ever suck at baseball stitching! Let's try again with a piece of scrap leather.
Better...so I cracked out the Alcantara I'm gong to use for another part of the build. Let's see how that goes?
What I learned, was that if I can pre-cut the holes and keep them uniform, this isn't going to be too hard. Time consuming...yes. Hard? Not really.
Here's where I landed for the evening. Not too bad for about 1h worth of work.
I'm going to cover the rest of the wheel later this week when I get some other stuff in. A template would be the next step. I REALLY don't want to waste any of the Alcantara. It's about $120 per yard.
Naaa. I'm going full custom.
Covered the center tonight and I'll have the Alcantara seen up for the rest of the wheel tomorrow.
I'm really starting to see the theme come together. What an awesomely gratifying process. Now if I can just get the body don't likety-split, I'd be a happy dude!
That tub better not come back with big surprises.
Cut out the bottom and it will look like the steering yoke on a plane.
Hopefully your face will not come in contact with the modified wheel
Powder coating a strut with the insert in place???
Does that concern you. Excessive heat??
I'm "back in the garage" this weekend, and hopefully, can take the car to the sandblaster (finally) tomorrow.
In the meantime, I'm re-working the center console. I picked up a JVC In-Dash nav system, and that frees up the dash area for the rest of the gauges. So I moved the switches down below. I'm also incorporating an 8" sub into the area where the back-pad normally resides. It'll throw against the firewall. Should be cool.
Here's what it looks like in my "digital garage"
Sent the steering wheel off to Alan Gun of Alan Gun Leather in Plantation, FL. http://www.aglausa.com/
I sent some pics and a description of what I was looking for. I got a very detailed reply that told me he was not only paying attention, but that he'd care about it too. So I sent it off yesterday, and he called me this morning to go over everything. I'm REAL excited to see what it looks like when I get it back. Should be perfect.
Just realized I have 65 days till I need to be on the road. So that gives me just over 9 weekends to bang out a VERY long list of custom stuff. I better get cracking!
::: heads to the garage :::
Well, it was a wheel that came with the car and I don't have a lot into it. So, for the $200 it'll cost me, it was worth the risk.
Got busy in the garage today. Garrett helped me put tools away and scrape the tar off of the interior.
Then I started mocking up the dashboard and center console.
This looks a little wide, so I need to measure with the seats in and see how much space I have to work with.
This is what I'm going for though. I'm not going to have dash pads at all, and plan on covering the metal with vinyl and Alcantara.
I would drop a drivers seat in there and see how the console works with your arm and the shifter. For Me I would be bumping into that stuff all day long.
Don't forget to install the throttle pedal before your final console design. This is one area I still need to refine to a more comfortable position.
Yeah, I've been thinking about pedal placement a lot. I started pondering that area, and I'm going to try cutting out an area like this. I can take most of that area out. That'll give me plenty of foot room.
Mocking up what I scribbled earlier...this should give my feet all the room they need, and still hide all the wiring. All I need is enough for the back of the Nav box, the rest is relatively small wiring to the switch panel.
I decided to do a lot of the welding before I send it to the sand-blaster. Reason being, the areas with rust aren't where I'm welding, and I'd rather have them etch-prime the whole tub so the primer gets in all the cracks.
Started the evening welding up the rear trailing arms. I'm not sure I have the tubes in the right spot. Their instructions said one thing, the pictures told a different story. I'm going to wait till my brake parts come back from powder before I finish this part up. I'll put the press together and get the hubs out later this week.
Then I started buttoning up the flares. I'd thought about AllMetal at one point, but McMark talked me out of that route. So I started the long process of filling about 200 gaps on two fenders tonight. I don't have any grind wheels, so that part will have to wait till I can run to HF tomorrow. Got the whole Passenger side welded up. I'll do the other side, and my Engman kit next.
I also fixed the only hole in the floor. There was just 2-3 places it perforated, so I cut a new piece and put the bends in. Welded up nicely. Again...I need grind wheels!
Last thing I did tonight was start pondering where the radiator will go and be routed. I think I'm making a case for running both down the pass long. I can get the other tube out of there, and fashion a steel "case" to put it in at the passenger's feet. Don't know...still thinking.
The Sciricco radiator I got is dual-pass all aluminum, but both hoses are on the same side. That's what got me started.
Something like this.
Is use a heat shield of some kind to keep the heat to a minimum. Both hoses would fit in the long.
Alternatively, I could run one through the long and the other through the center channel.
Spent 2-hours in the garage and got all the paint off. MUCH easier with a grinder and 3-4 3M disks!
BUT...it looks like I have a bit of a mess in the passenger front quarter. Thinking I may need someone to cut one off of a body for me. This thing is chewed. Going to take a lot of work...or a panel. Thoughts?
Quick tax tip: if you hire Garrett as an employee you don't have to pay taxes on him. Not until he turns 18 anyway. Kids are an excellent source of cheap, tax-free labor.
Well dang...must be wrinkled just ahead of the flare weld line then? I'm sure someone has a fender in their stash with that section intact...
Just thinking out loud, what do you water cooled guys due for cabin heat since some of you live north of Mason-Dixon?
Show off your solutions !!
Not rusted. Looks like it was used as a teething toy by this guy.
Cabin heat: No clue. I'm not adding anything yet. Next winter!
I was flipping thru the Summit Racing catalog and found this, if its heat only solution it might be interesting.
Summit Racing Part Number:SUM-991102-1
Heater Type:Dual front vent
Heater Depth (in):8.625 in.
Heater Height (in):6.500 in.
Heater Width (in):9.500 in.
Heater Flow (cfm):260
Heater Output (btus):28,000
Uses Engine Coolant for Heat:Yes
They also have slight larger one. My car usually goes in at the end of October, and back out late March early April. I am putting in Seat heaters. But I am thinking about adding something like this, or a mustang heater core to the fresh air blower. I have auto-xed in the rain and snow, some times its nice to take a little fog off a window, and kep your hands warm.
Though for me it adds to the weight, weight is bad. But seeing is good, rain-x anti-fog, is also good, just like rain-x is good for cars with out windshield wipers.
Heres my rant, its hard to find weights of any products out there. Summit doesn't even list shipping weights, so if your picking between three items, all with in a few dollars of each other, I will pick the lightest one every time. Yet a racing catalog doesn't list weights.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=226998 and a few others linked in this thread will give you an idea what has been done. Bob BIGKAT_83 of course gets my pick for best street solution.
Doug you started that thread.
That's a very cool heater. I am at Summit about once a week, so I'll grab one next time. Great call! (I'll weigh it for you too.)
I have seat heat, but defrost is a safety issue now that I think of it.
Cool, that would be great.
Since it will be the highest point in the system if it is under the cowl, I would add an air bleed to help purge the system.
I would repair that. Take a propane torch and heat up the sealant that is wadded up in that pocket and scrap it out clean. The you can start to bump it back into shape. Wish I had the time to come help Doug but I won't be in Cleveland again until April.
I was thinking of adding the fill/resivour up there. To make it easier.
I know you would Rick. I think I can get it on my own. Just going to take some time and patience. I don't have much of either.
a couple of well placed ceramic heaters is the route I am going. light, electric and no hoses to plumb.
I'm bringing in some "backup" to help me out.
I met a guy this morning that's a recent graduate from the Ohio Technical College's Classic Car Restoration program. ( http://www.ohiotech.edu/programs/restoration/ ) He's looking for work...I'm looking to get this project done at some point...seems like a great deal!
I gave him the info for here, so if you see a new guy named Bill show up, be nice.
Hey guys, I am the aforementioned Bill. Been reading for about 5 hrs trying to get up to speed on the 914's and its pretty sweet stuff your cranking out. Hot rodding at its finest.
Just wanted to say "hey" and I may have some questions
Later on if I cant find them myself but right now im full!
Hey Bill, welcome aboard. Doug can use some help since his weekend release program was cancelled.
Wow! That's really hard to do. Nice work Bill!
BTW: I think Bill is in his early 40s. Just decided he wanted to work on cars, so he moved to Cleveland from St. Louis to go to OTC.
He should be at the house working when I get home. (I'm on an airplane right now.) I'll take some more pics.
Bill got a bit done today. The front where the metal was all chewed up looks to be formed nicely now. Not perfect, but it is miles better and should clean up very nicely.
Next up is the flares. The welds were tightened up and ground a bit. I can see this coming together nicely too.
He thinks I'll be done and painted in about 3-4 weeks. He'll be on it 8h a day, so I'd expect we may be able to get through it a bit quicker.
With Bill working on the body over the next few weeks, I can concentrate on all the other stuff that needs done. Part of that, is to get a lot of little things cleaned up.
So....Garrett and I went out and bought a blasting cabinet today. It was on sale from $299 to $209...and I had a 25% off, so for $150 I took it home.
I'd rebuild this cluster, but thought it would be a good idea to break it all down, glass-bead it, and get it out to powder coat after Kent is done with the hydraulic clutch build.
On another note...
Switched to different interior materials. Originally, it was going to be Black vinyl with black Alcantara. Now I'm thinking Gray/Gray. I think the Gray looks better with the brushed Aluminum. Thoughts?
Blast cabinet is one of my next purchases. Harbor Freight?
Nice, thanks for the info guys. Good idea on the plasti dip. I did hear you have to seal it up good if you're using soda. Saw a few complaints about it not sealing well with that but...it's SODA. Pretty small particles. It's gonna be messy.
Actually, the glass beads are small...and SLIPPERY!!!! Like 1,000,000 tiny ball bearings on the ground. They shimmer too.
While Bill makes progress out in the garage, I'm working nights on the interior pieces.
Stripped the seats to bare glass tonight. Hoping I can get them cleaned up enough to paint soon before the padding gets added back on.
After stripping everything, I found a SHIT TON of mold. Yuck!
Quick trip out to the garage for a meeting with "Mr. Soda Blaster" and I got the mold off. I need more soda, and will strip the rest of the glue and stuff off tomorrow.
So, Bill bailed on me. That's a bummer, because he was a real nice guy and I was looking to do a lot more with him. Better I learn now than later I guess.
So...I'm looking for another shop that can crank through the car for me over the next few weeks. HUGE set-back, but I'll make it work. My goal is still April 15th. 50 days isn't' a lot of time from this stage, but I gotta push on and make it work.
The trailer I bought was a piece of shit. So, I put it in Craigslist and a few hours later it was on its way to be the next guy's problem. Cost me $80 to own a trailer for 3 weeks. O-well.
FINALLY found someone that can take the car out to the sandblaster. $80 and he'll be here at 9:00am.
So I spent the evening getting the tub ready for the 18mi trip.
They're going to etch prime it too, so I should get a nice fresh looking tub back.
Do I get an award for "Coldest 914" today?
I was concerned for 1min about the snow and then I realized it's going to be sand-blasted in a few hours and then etch primed.
Let it snow!
Don't All-Metal over gaps or pin holes. Although it is resin based it is not metal and will absorb moisture and bubble when it gets wet. Rust will form under it if moisture is allowed to get to it from the back side.
And she's off! Newbury Sandblasting is going to have it blasted inside/out, primed, cleaned and back to my house by Tuesday. They had a real cool Monte Carlo that they just finished yesterday. They spent a LOT of time going over everything with me to make sure it's as expected. I'm feeling good about this. Especially for $600.
The body shop that I was going to use had a death or something, so now they can't take me until June. Grrrr! I need to find a new one close by so I can check-in from time to time.
Spent the evening working on the engine wiring harness. Since there is a lot of it that is no longer needed, I can re-make the entire thing to the exact right lengths. Ordered a pin puller kit from Amazon and it should be here tomorrow. So I dismantled the entire thing, and washed all the connections. I'll have a LOT of crimping and soldering tomorrow, but having a perfect harness will be worth it.
Also worked on finishing up the seatbelt clips. I'm replacing the Orange with Green to match the rest of the theme. Stay tuned for the other cool part.
Spent the morning working on the ECU.
The Hydra EMS that I'll be using needed some extra wiring, so after getting the pin-map from the manufacturer, I started building out all the pins and organizing.
Figured the easiest way would be to build an Excel sheet to keep everything organized.
The last part of the day was getting the transmission ready. I finally had all the parts to convert it to 2WD.
After opening it up, I was confused on how to get the 27mm nut off. A quick call to Ian and I was set straight.
I had to run out and buy a Windows computer to run the Hydra software. Ultimately it was cheaper and easier to buy an IBM Thinkpad with Windows 7 than it would have been to buy a copy and get it set up. So now I have a dedicated ECU machine. (For $150, I'm not complaining!)
Hydra sent me a base map for the 2003 WRX, so I have a good starting point. The guy that had the ECU before me had a custom map. Maybe I'll load that up and see how it goes at some point.
So now I can see where all the different aux ports are and map them to things like "Launch Control" and other coolness. It'll be cool to have a dial like the Ferraris do for "Street / Race" modes.
Doug, don't solder your joints, get high quality crimpers and crimps, crimp them, then adhesive heat shrink over the joint. They are less likely to break and also are repairable if need be, with out cutting out a section. The heat shrink also acts a strain relief. But you can do it how ever you want.
I come from the computer world where when I started we soldered everything. I now crimp everything using crimpers and adhesive heat shrink as my strain reliefs.
But thats just me. You still should use an adhesive heat shrink for strain relief.
I hear you loud and clear. I meant to type "de-soldering". Some of the Subaru connectors were soldered inside the connectors. I just ordered about 200 new female ends for all the different Delphi connectors. I'm also re-doing all the connections to the Hydra. In between, it'll be a using a termination block so I can move to other pins if I need to re-map something.
Carry on then good sir carry on.
I spent the night tearing down all the connections for the engine harness. All new high-temp wiring has been ordered in about 20 different colors.
I expect I'll have the entire harness done by the weekend. I've got it all mapped out in an excel sheet, and printed shrink tubing for both ends of each wire. So the plan is to get everything terminated to the connector, and leave 10' at the end so I can take a lot of time to wire it through properly to the termination block.
Your pedal assembly is ready for shipping tomorrow. I'll pm you tomorrow. I made some rubber stop pads. Ugly but effective. Note the washer orientation, don't mix washers. The one on the accelerator shaft is unique in size. Do not omit any washers or interference is possible.
A couple points of clarification:
1: Is the gap expected? I'd assume YES so there is play for the clevis.
2: Are these washers needed? I'd expect 1-2, and the rest you're showing are to simulate the thickness of the body.
Thanks for the awesome work. Can't wait to get it back and stripped before I send it off to powder.
#2- no, they are used just to set it up and simulate the floor area.
Your assumptions are correct.
Nice, what colour is the car?
Spent the night in the garage working on little things.
Ground and re-welded the tubes for the trailing arms. My welding skills aren't great, but WAY better than they used to be. These go off to powder in the AM.
Stopped by the sandblaster today. JUST in time!
When the dust cleared (pun intended) I got quite a sight.
So...my tub is in a LOT better shape than I was expecting.
Just a tiny bit of Swiss cheese on the passenger floor,
But everything else appears to be real solid.
They're etch-priming in the AM. I'll have it back in the garage on Saturday!
Awesome. That's a great tub! Tiny little patch and a few plug welds for the extra holes drilled over the years and you're all good.
That is so freaking exciting. You are lucky to be able to stop and see it in progress. I can't wait to go visit my car at Scotty's.
Yeh, I was prepared for a nightmare scenario where there was a ton of hiding Bondo and dents. Lucked out this time I guess!
The actually helps quite a bit. I was expecting 3-4 weeks worth of bodywork, but I may be able to have the interior, bottom, and trunks painted by the 15th.
What did the hell hole look like?
HH is good. It's been repaired in the past, and I'll likely clean it up a little more. (My welds aren't great...these are horrid!)
This is getting exciting.
It looks great! Its gonna be sweet painted!
Spent last night working on the ECU.
File this under "OCD" but it was driving me nuts that the wiring on the ECU cable was A: Thin and B: Blue. It took me a while digging through Delphi catalogs, but I found the right connector and ordered a few hundred female pins. While watching TV last night, I was able to re-build all three of my ECU cables. I used a larger gauge teflon coated wire that will also terminate easily into a distribution block. I plan on making that half of the panel real soon.
I also snagged the Rhino label maker from the server room, and bought 1/4" shrink tube so I can print out labels for everything. I'm planning on doing this for every cable in the car. I know it seems like a lot of work, but I have a chart and can easily print everything out ahead of time, and then as I clip wires shorter, or build harnesses, I'm not having to look at a chart. I can easily identify every wire and know where it terminates and what it's for. One of those jobs that's easy to set up and stay on top of if I start it now.
Your doing a great job, I have the labeler, the heat shrink tubing, and the harnesses lying around. Now I just need to get off my butt and get something done.
Your making great progress, keep it up.
Worked for 2hrs on the engine wiring harness tonight. Ugh...this is a lot of work!
I've got it all mapped out now though. Only 2-3 that I need clarity on. I'll be spending lots of time searching for replacement plugs too. Other than thT and a few bits/pieces, the motor is pretty much built.
In other news, I talked to the sandblaster late in the day. There was a problem with the etching primer I'd given him, so they had to use a different brand. I'm not too worried about it. What they had was just a different version of the SW paint id given them. I'll have it back Sat morn now instead of Fri night.
Doug... just make sure you tell the body shop that is painting it that you used etch primer otherwise they may put the wrong top coat on it and well.... bad things happen.
Ask me how I know
Todd: I'll be doing the bodywork. PLEASE tell me what you mean? I was planning on doing all the filler on top of the etch primer, and then 2K primer over that before I apply the color. I may have someone else do the final top-coat and clear again, but if things go well, I may do it myself this time. (I feel more confident about painting this time around.)
2K (Urethane) primer should not go over etch primer. It has the ability to stick to bare metal and should not be used over etch primer.
I etched the TR6 and the body shop put urethane over it and it all melted together... when they went to block it down it just wiped away. They had to strip and re-primer. Nice big bill for me
I should have used what I usually use which is "z-chrome" from Claussen but I was doing it in batches and did not want to hassle with it... serves me right I guess.
Rick can chime in with a more specific reason why the etch and urethane do not mix... I only know what my buddy told me.
We used a 2k etch primer that was specifically compatible with the 2k high build primer that I bought too. I SHOULD be ok in that department. I'll absolutely check though. Great tip.
Doug, just run it by your paint supplier. Those guys usually sell just 1 or 2 brands so you may have to check a few places.
Spent all morning in the garage, getting ready to fix the areas of the floor pan that needed attention. Nothing bad at all. After I got everything fitted, I took them out and sandblasted the replacement metal and primed them.
I also grabbed Garrett to give me a hand with marking all the holes on the Engman kit. He's only 7 but turning out to be a BIG help with tasks like that.
Going to work on the engine shelf and look inside the long after I get back from taking the boys to the dentist. I'm determined to lick this before sundown tomorrow so I can get back on track.
It won't be a biggie but that flange on the L rear patch will hold off that Engman piece a tad. It welds up flush but I don't think .030" offset will matter squat.
This is the section that I was planning on cutting out next week to box in preparation for the Subie trans. I've got a piece of 2" steel tube that I would put between the two shock towers. Any other ideas? Is this enough room?
Does your engine setup require you to cut all that out? All I had to do was cut a small hole for the starter in the trunk floor and another 3x3 square in the back for the intake manifold.
One more. Sorry I can't resize on my mac worth a
You really don't need to cut out that whole area. The starter only comes through little bit. So just an access hole should be fine
I've got an intercooler that needs some additional piping, and was planning on mounting the ECU on it.
I don't see a cutout for the turbo. Did you move it?
I love what McMark did with this one. Wish I had the spare parts to make it work.
OK I figured it was something if you were cutting a hole that big. I don't think Jamie's is turbo'd (yet).
That extended piece does look nice and stockish with the matching ribbed panels. I'm sure someone has a piece of trunk floor they could cut out for you...
Excellent, that's what I've been trying to describe to people but I didn't know someone had already done it, that there was a photo. That's perfect, and if I were doing it again is the way I'd do it.
I think you'll find that how much you need to cut out, and where, depends on where the cradle, or whatever other engine mount you're using, locates the engine. That's the most important factor, then the engine's plumbing, tubing, whether the manifold was flipped, etc, etc. For my first cradle with the 901 transmission we kept the engine pretty much at the same position as the T4 engine, then when we did the Subaru transaxle we we moved the transmission forward an inch or inch and a half, because we could and because that gave the engine more space for the flipped manifold and the intercooler tubing. So I think how much you're going to need to do depends on what configuration you're putting in. But that big cutout that McMark did (damn, he's a smart guy) should cover pretty much any combination.
Kiss the imposed April deadline good bye! You have a lot of work and it just keeps piling up.
Stopped by Cleveland Ohio Powder Coating to see what everything looks like this morning. They were just getting ready to put everything in the oven to pre-bake. I dropped off:
Front Mounting Pieces
Front Support Beam
Rear Trailing Arms
911 E-Brake Shields and Mounts
A bunch of it will be "Powder Chrome" and the other parts will be neon green.
I'll have everything back later today!
It's bright. That's for sure!
Bright AND protected for awhile! Great job at any price!
I love the colors!
also, when I did my /4 suspension, I did it the same "chrome" it came out really nice!
Got busy with a few projects last night.
First, I finished up the hell-hole repair. I ran out of 18awg steel, so I picked up a few more sheets yesterday. The piece went in easy and after some fitment, I feel confident that I have it all buttoned up well. My welds aint as pretty as I'd like just yet, but they are getting a lot better!
Next, I played with the seats a little bit. For whatever reason, this part of the build still has me flustered. I just don't know what I want to do. On one hand, I have these bad-ass Carbon-Fiber seats I picked up for a song. They need recovered so if I want them in the car, I need to decide pretty quickly what I want to do. BUT...if I use them, I'm going to need to move the e-brake handle and use the Boxster handle I bought. That'll take some fabrication, and I'm not sure I'd ever really trust it if I needed to.
I'll ponder that later...time to get started on more welding before I move on to the trunk project.
I have this GT kit, and after I got this piece in place, I realized that I didn't have the instructions, and couldn't figure out where 2 of the other pieces went. So...I got these installed and left it at that until I can research placement, and if some of the other pieces are really necessary.
GT kits where made for the -6 cars, so the two pieces you have most like run up the inner logs towards the inner suspension console. They are covered by that much needed -4 engine mount on each side. You could cut them out, weld in the plates, and then put them back in as you need them for the Coldwater cradle.
This is Dan. My new body guy.
I have to get on a plane to LIT tomorrow, then ATL on Monday, the. SFO on Tues. So I needed some backup.
He tells me he can get the body filled/blocked/everything by next Sunday. If he makes the FOLLOWING Sunday, I'll be happy.
Already sent me some progress pics. I'll post those in the AM.
What was the decision on the rear trunk. I have McMarks rear trunk Evernoted for my Project as it is the cleanest factory looking one I have seen.
I got my cradle from Ian, have the mockup motor almost ready to go in and see what and where I need to clearance.
Your making great progress keep it up.
Thanks Stephen. I "punted" until next week when I get the body back. I think I'm going to end up dong something similar, but without the "ribs" that McMark has. Honestly, I'm going so far off the reservation with the rest of the build, it doesn't make sense to put a ton of work into making it look stock.
Dan has been doing a great job on the flares. He got all the "waves" out of one of them about an hour after I dropped it off. He also fixed the welds that the other guy ground too much off of. He sent me a question last night about how to match the flares with the existing sheet metal down by the rockers. I know I've seen a few threads on it, so I'll keep digging. I dropped the fiberglass rockers off at his garage this AM on my way to the airport. I'll let him have fun with that!
Here's one of the pics he sent me last night. Already I can see a big improvement. I'm not sure what the other guy was doing with the pick-end of the metal hammer. Trying to shrink it up? Who knows. This guy is much better.
So I got an update late last night from my new body gut Dan.
He isn't happy with how far he got yesterday, but I sure am! He ground out and braised any of the thin spots that were over ground. Then modified the bottom of the flares so they match up with the body panels now.
Also welded all the little holes I wanted buttoned up. So far, I like what I see.
Here are a few of the 20 pics he sent me last night.
More pics from my body guy, while I'm out of town.
VERY glad I didn't try to tackle this on my own. He welded everything up, blocked it out, then re-sprayed it with more epoxy primer.
He's starting on the bondo (Using Rage Gold) work today. He'll have it blocked out and in 2K high-build by the time I get home on Thursday. He'll do a few more coat before it lands in my garage next Sunday.
From there, I've got to do the trunk work, then I'll paint the bottom and interior so I can get started on re-assembly of all of that before it hits the paint-booth for the exterior work on April 3rd.
in no time...
Whoops! Shoulda had them mask off this section depending on what bearing/bushing replacements you're using. The PC thickness will come into play on most setups. Also, you'll likely have the grind the PC off the ID to fit the ball joint into the arm.
But I really like the chrome and green.
Glad you like the trunk restructuring we did. The top of the new section is the vertical wall from the trunk, cut and flipped. This kept the ribbing and gave us the smooth rounded transition. The other piece is a section of rear trunk pan from a donor car. I opted to leave the 'portholes' for a little more authenticity.
There is also a very important reinforcement section on the bottom of the new piece. The stock cars have a double wall, boxed section between the shock towers. Without replicating that box section or otherwise reinforcing the shock towers, you may experience flex or worse, tearing metal.
Wow Mark...I completely forgot to have them mask the arms. They did it on the trailing arms and the struts.
The trunk work is going to be interesting. There are 2-3 different ways that I can go about it, but I'm going to have to wait and see what I come up with when I have the sawzall in my hand. Maybe I can get some advice on Wednesday when I drop by Mark?
More progress from my body guy. He sends me about 20 pics every night at about 2:00am. The body of the message from these pics said he felt good about the drivers side now, and was going to work on the pass today. He'll have the whole thing in 2K primer by tomorrow and can start working on sanding/blocking everything again and again. "Looks like a lot in some pics, but after sanding it'll be nothing much thicker than a dime."
That looks great! Almost time to guide coat and block it out!
Dude you're gonna hug it out with that guy when you get back. He's really diving in. Looks really good.
McMak thanks for the detailed shots. Doug that is looking super nice, how did you find your body guy? Looks like he's doing the work on the side.
Here's his email from today. (He sends me about 20 pics every night.)
Stopped by to check out McMark's setup over at Original Customs for an hour or so today. I didn't feel too trigger happy with the camera, but I really enjoyed looking at everything. I got to see some cool stuff...and we talked about my NEXT build a little bit.
Gotta get this one done first though!
I'll post pics of my car in the morning when I get a chance to check it out. Right now: It's "redeye" time.
Stopped by this morning on my way home from the airport to check in and see how it was going. Man...I'm a happy camper.
The driver's side will be blocked out after he's finished with the passenger side later today. He's going to shoot the whole car with 2K one more time before I get it back.
He's really doing great work. I can't imagine how I'd have done this good of a job on my own. All the welds on the inside of the flares were ground down and feel nice. Every little hole is patched and now smooth. It's exactly what I was looking for.
Here are a few pics I took with my phone. Hope to have it back in my garage Monday after someone comes to grab the engine I'm shipping. (I need the room...badly!)
I DID look at using real airplane gauges at one point, but bailed on it pretty quickly. Too much work!
It's really starting to come together on the body front.
He knocked out the lids and put a few more coats of 2K on the car yesterday with some additional blocking to knock it all down. I'm quite pleased. He's going to start on the doors today and I should be in good shape to bring it home on Monday so I can get the bottom, interior, and trunks sprayed with the base coat. I can start putting the wiring harness and interior in from there.
Just realized that I keep forgetting to take the clips for the rear sail trim off the car. I'll bet there is visible orange paint under them. lol...
I love it when a build goes FAST!. How did you find the new body guy? looks like he is working out of his garage? looks good, though! what color did you say you are going to? and you are trying to put it on the road for Hershey? insane! are you sure you want to drive it on all the salt riddled roads from ohio to hershey?
Working on the interior this weekend.
I printed all the plates I was going to have water-jetted out of 1/8" Aluminium. After I laminated them, I can mock everything up from here. Then I just need to make adjustments once and I should be in good shape.
Spent the night building the engine's wiring harness. I still have 3 sensors left to do, but I want to double-check the names and connections BEFORE I crimp them down. I started working on the dash plates like I mentioned in the previous post. There are a few changes I need to make to those before I have them water-jetted. Glad I played with paper first!
Stopped by to check on the progress today, and I'm loving what I found.
The body is primed, blocked, and ready to go! I was going to paint it at home, but he's doing such a great job, I have him some more work. He'll be replacing the rear trunk pan for me, and building the cutout for the Subaru stuff. I'll have the car back and painted by next Friday, just in time for my wife and kids to leave for the weekend.
I plan on cranking through the weekend and HOPEFULLY I can start the car at some point on Sunday.
Spent the day doing all the little things I won't have time to, or want to do later.
Yanked the bearings and blasted the front hubs, blasted and painted the targa latches, blasted and re-sprayed about 20 little nick-knacks and cleaned the windshield wiper assembly.
Also bought a parts vibrator today after seeing McMarks's last week. Holy shit is this thing useful.
The green glass pyramids, with some SuperClean and water.
I did a run with just water, and a dry run too. The mix I mentioned above worked the best. I ran it for about an hour each time.
And boy...if you thought stepping on a Lego in there feet was rough...this is WAY worse. You have no idea.
Engine bay mod is done. Used 1.5" tube across the shock towers, then boxed it in place. I'm going to use the flat panel to mount a plate for the ECU and the wiring block. (I REALLY hope I gave myself enough room for the turbo and starter to clear.
That's a cool way to box your trunk. The tube gives good strength and a nice round edge. Let's hope the motor fits
Yeah, I THINK I'll be OK. I used dbcooper's pic as a template for how far out I needed to go...then added a few inches. I'm going to use the flat panel for the ECU and Wiring. I left myself about 6' extra from every lead so I'd be OK in the "worst-case-scenerio" of ECU wiring. I should also have quite a bit more support between the rear towers.
The inside and bottom edges are also 1" square tubing between the points. The inside triangle was also braced and welded up.
I'm going over to measure tonight and will set up the board so I can just screw it on and add the wiring as needed. I'm going for a very clean install. Like I used to do with car stereo installs back in the 90s.
Stopped by the car last night to check the progress in the trunk.
He'd ground down all the welds in the "box" and removed the rear section of the pan. This is going to be covered by interior vinly later, so I just need it to be ground down "enough" so I can do my thing there later.
Since this is a 1975 car, and had the bumpers converted, the piece I bought needed modified to make way for the bumper bolts. Not a big deal, but put a kink in the progress. I'm going to take some stuff over later for painting, but wanted to post these so people could see.
Also finished the install of the Engman kit. The car was pushed out by an extra 1/8", and by the time the kit was complete, the measurements between the windshield and targa bar are perfect.
The inside of the box will get packed with seam sealer after epoxy and before primer and paint, so don't fret too much about that. This also shows a better look at the inside braces. He's also going to replace that section of metal where the distributor for the SB350 was.
Because I'm going to need to go pretty fast on my wiring harness once the car gets here, I figured I'd do some advanced work on what will be needed. Holy shit are the instructions bad. The only thing worse, was the PDF that the company sent me. I'm not even joking...this is an example of what they looked like.
SO....I started hunting a little more. Lucky for me, someone else had the same issue and came up with a set of REAL instructions.
In case anyone else is looking...here's a link to the good ones.
I guess EZ2Wire buys them from the same place and spent a few hours putting together proper instructions. Boy, am I ever grateful!
Tonight is going to be a lot of pre-assembly. I have the brake calipers to get ready, so I'll be putting all the pistons together and trying to locate the banjo fittings so I can get the lines made up when I have them in the car. I ordered about $100 worth of $2 pieces/parts from Pelican today. That'll all be here on Friday.
The car lands in my garage on Saturday morning...ready or not! (Oh, I'll be ready...)
::: guess I forgot to add the pics :::
Thanks for the link, as I have the same harness. The drawings are just like the How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive
Spent the evening working on more little things.
Replaced the bearings in the front hubs.
Re-built the pedal cluster...again.
Painted a bunch of random pieces.
Re-stenciled the "Porsche" on the calipers.
Dan is CRUSHING the body work. I'll be stopping by tomorrow to check it out, but he was prepping for paint when I stopped by earlier in the day. It's really starting to feel like everything is coming together.
Here are the pics I got last night from Dan. Yesterday he got the rear trunk-pan welded in, fabricated a piece for the dizzy, epoxy primed all the trunks and engine bay again, seam-sealed the areas that needed it, and ten put a coat of paint on the trunks/interior/engine bay/underside.
Today hell get a coat on the car and then start blocking and sanding for another coat and then do it again until the body is ready to come home on Sat.
He's working faster than I am!
Good progress.... keep his number... I need to get it from you at some point.
Just sent all my aluminium pieces off to be water-jetted this week. There's a local guy that's doing it for me. $160 for a 4X4 sheet of 1/8" 6061 Aluminium...and the jetting is included. :woot: I should have them on Monday!
It'll be a lot easier to build my console out and have all the switches in-line of I can do it this way. The ONLY thing I'm thinking about is a gated shifter. I may go back later for that one. I can have it cut out of plexi for $25 so I'm not wasting metal to do it.
I got a lot accomplished tonight.
Assembled one of the front struts tonight, just to see how it would all go together. I have some grinding to do! The powder on the area the caliper mounts is thick, so I don't have the right clearance. It sure looks good though!
Then I got to work on the trailing arms. Ground down all the extra metal with a grinding flap-wheel thingy, then welded the tabs on. From there, it was pretty easy.
Then I pressed the old bolts out of the spacers, so they're ready to be milled down (if needed) or just put over the other bolts I have now. (100mm)
All the while, Dan is hard at work on the body. I'll head over in the morning and take a look. He had the insides/bottom painted yesterday. He was going to get a few coats on the body this evening so I should be able to see it coming together when I get there.
Ok...I'm pooped. Time for bed!
Just got a few pics from Dan. I'm real happy with the color. Very unique, and there certainly isn't another 914 out there in this color.
I'll take more when I go over later today.
Almost like a Jag Dove grey... little lighter... like it
i do like it, i thought that was just a grey primer a first, is it a non-porsche color?
Looks pretty much just like you wanted it. You're gonna make it to the meet too aren't ya? That's crazy.
Chris: Unless it's snowing...or raining like hell, I'll be driving it there.
Todd: Yeah, that's exactly right. I wanted a deep grey that wasn't metallic at all.
Philip: It's not a Porsche color. There's a "Porsche Sport Grey" that I was going to go for, but it was a little too "brown" for me. I have this color matched up perfectly with a perforated vinyl and an Alcantara that should really make it look special.
I forgot to mention. Thanks to bdstone914 for getting me a set of hats in a hurry so I could get the rear arms together quickly. That made all the difference!
Love it! Thought it was going to be lime-green to match your parts...
Little darker than this
Even though there is no such color, it looks like "gloss battleship grey".
I'm going for a whole "fighter jet" theme with the car, so I could have left it in primer and been just fine. (I DID think about that at one point...)
I've got to run to the house, and then over there to drop some things off to him. (spray bed-liner for the bottom and wheel wells.) I'll take more pics then and see what we're dealing with.
I LOVE the color!!! I like the 911 color too, but I can't wait to see this thing together. Killer.
I stopped by to drop some things off tonight. Overall, the body looks awesome. There dust in the paint, but it should buff out without issue.
I live the color. It's exactly what I was looking for.
So when are you adding one of these?
There are herehttp://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/infinitygrips.php
Or us an old computer joy stick. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thrustmaster-F-16-FLCS-Flight-Control-System-Vintage-PC-Joystick-/111307375940
I would go for the real thing from Aircraft Spruce.
With the right wheels and tires that combo is gonna look killer, and if you're as attentive to that choice as you've been to everything else in your post it's gonna knock it outta the park! Great color and great job so far!
I actually thought about a joystick like that for the shifter. I may still do it at some point, but that actually may add "labor" to driving the car...which I'm trying to avoid. It'd be cool to wire up the buttons for "Launch Control" and a few other goodies that I'm thinking about.
I spent all night on the wiring harness and getting everything mapped out and ready. I ran out of heat-shrink tubing for my Rhino label maker, so I ordered more from Amazon. I'll have it on Saturday and can work on finishing that in the morning before I run off to get the tub from Dan. I'm half-tempted to have him hold off on buffing it out too much. I may need to anyway after I have it in my garage for a week and walking past it. I'm going to look into a plastic sheeting of some kind to protect the paint until I get it ready for the final buff-out. Like that stuff that they have on the car from the factory before it gets to the dealer?
My weekend is starting off right!
Stopped by to see the body before I pick it up tomorrow. Dan buffed out one quarter for me, and it looks like a mirror.
He sprayed the Raptor Liner on the bottom, and in all the wheel wells. Tinted to match the body color. Looks great too! Should offer great protection from rocks and such.
Tub comes home tomorrow, sans hoods and doors. He'll deliver those on Monday. I wouldn't be able to use them yet anyway. I'd rather be able to get stuff in/out of the car easily.
Here is a sneak peak of the car in (gloomy) daylight.
That Raptor liner has a nice textured finish to it.
Spent the night working on cleaning out the garage. After that, I started on the hubs.
Got the studs pulled on everything and then blasted the rear hubs and painted them. Nothing is going back on this car that hasn't been cleaned and/or replaced.
I used 2 of my 2" spacers to seat all the studs. I pressed them in, then used an impact wrench to get them seated and straight.
So...I've got that going for me...which is nice.
Got the car back in the garage as planned. I bought some "crash wrap" to keep the fenders from getting scuffed up while I'm walking past it, until all the crap leaves the garage this week.
I marked out the area of the center support that I want to cut out so it's easier to get to the wiring harness, and so I have room for the cables to the transmission.
Got her up on her side, and got to work...
...then about cut my finger off with a cut-wheel on my grinder. So now I'm sitting in the ER waiting to get this stitches up so I can get back to my garage!
Dude, sorry about the finger. Heal fast, we like this thread!
Oh, I'm not letting 6 stitches stop me. Headed home now to get back to work!
I got an owwie on my hand today too, but no visit to the hospital, just two band aids...
. with Billie. If I can avoid an ER, hospital (read petri dish) I do.Duct tape and toilet paper makes for one Hell of a bandage. But it will heal faster if stitched. Doug, to what and how will you mount your shifter once you've removed that area detailed?
what color is that?
Color: Dove Grey. NOT a Porsche color. I wanted something different.
ER: the cut wheel went through my leather glove, and the nitrate glove. I could see bone before I even took the glove off! Check it out!
Shifter: I'm adding cross-braces so it'll be lower and give me room for cables.
I've been busy trying to get the damn front bushings on. The powder is WAY thick inside. Now I realized I have the tortion bars in wrong, so I'm trying to figure out how to remove them.
I rebuilt the steering rack while frustrated. Bead-blasted the case then re-greased everything. Looks awesome now.
I also put Ian's cradle and mounts in. They're awesome.
Damn fingers, always getting in the way... glad you're not letting a little blood and bone get in yer way!
That is a PITA place to be cutting your finger. Try not to bend it for the next 3 weeks.
Color looks great. Like a green monster hidden in the fog.
Wow, nice color on the cradle man! awesome progress!
Got the entire suspension installed and ready. I still need to hook up the e-brake before I put the rear hubs on. Just want to make sure it's 100% before I press them.
Had the front suspension on/off 4 times. The bushings were too tight, and then when I finally had it right, I realized I hadn't put the 930 tie rods on. Then I did that and after I got it all back on, realized I forgot the steering rack bearing and boot. So...that was the 5th time. Ugh. I burnt 4h on stupidity.
Installed the master cyl and the hydronic clutch stuff. I'm not sure I have it right yet, so I'll re-visit that soon.
My engine never made it today. I'm bummed about that, but I got a lot of other stuff done, so I'm not too upset about it. Tomorrow night, I'll do some of the stuff in the engine bay and get the fuel system plummed and ready.
But...I feel great about all I got done. Especially with only 1 1/2 hands.
Not bad for a guy with nine fingers......
Keep it up. BTW, what happened to the solstice mirrors?
Solstace mirrors may or may not make it. They need a of work to make them fit right.
Dan and his brother Doug stopped by with the doors and hoods tonight. They're hard at work sanding and buffing while I'm putting DynaMat in the interior. It's starting to look amazing. I'm real happy with the body.
The rear proportioning valve is a huge pita to put back together. I took it all apart and cleaned the gunk out. Made up a gasket out of an old pack of cigarettes, and left a note for the next guy. Now I need to get it in a vice to put it back together.
Dan and Doug (Dan's brother) came over last night to finish wet-sanding and buffing everything. They're doing a great job. I MAY have the car sprayed one more time, and then clear-coated, but I'll make that determination after they are done, and before I put all the rubber seals in everything. It's single-stage paint that can be cleared, so I can go either way. I really don't want to do it after the seals are in place though. That never works out well.
I spent last night on the wiring harness, and getting ready for the engine to arrive. (Still..) I also got the metal plate ready for the ECU to be mounted. I was planning on doing that later today as well.
The harness I have was meant for a hot-rod that had the engine up front, and the fuel tank in the back...so I 've had to take everything apart, and move a bunch of wires forward, and even more back. I'll re-wrap everything this afternoon and see if I can get it in the car before I leave for DC Friday morning. I have a pretty big list of things to do between now and then.
Cranked quite a bit last night while Dan and Doug were over finishing up the body work (for now.)
I installed Lava Mat on the back of the firewall to a: help with heat and b: look bad-ass. I still need to do the lower section, but the temperature in the garage was dropping and this stuff gets harder to work with when it's cold. Getting it worked into all the contours is important.
Here's a link to the stuff I got. The 4' X 5' piece may be a little big, but I'm planning on using it in the cabin if I can to help with heat from the radiator tubes
I also did the FG work on the speaker pods for the pillars. The holes were a bit too big for the separates I have, so I closed up the holes, and I'll re-drill and then cover in Alcantara.
I did a bunch of other stuff like blasting the slave cyl for the clutch, found all the locks and installed them in the trunks and deck-lid, installed the e-brake cables and checked all of that out, then I put the hubs on the front and back. I think I'm a little too long on the front studs. I'll deal with that later I guess.
Last thing I did was get the brakes started. Picked up a BUNCH of brakeline, and I'm mapping it all out. I put the hubs on, and placed one of the calipers...just to see what it looked like.
One last pic to show what she looks like all shined up!
Tonight I MAY have a motor to put in it. Still working out logistics. I've had more issues with moving motors this week. What a PITA.
Keep both hands on the tool, and dont remove the guard. Same thing with a zip wheel. Just lucky it didnt go further in the nail.
I enjoy this thread and am amazed at your work. Keep it up. Hope to make if over there in a Porsche if the weather would ever break
Yeah...I had both hands on it, it caught and swung around. the guard WAS on, but in the back position so I could cut the metal.
I'm meeting with my upholstery guy in a few hours to drop off the seats to be re-covered. They should look awesome.
You're a madman!!! You're making great progress
Wow, Cpt Tripps....this is one cool build! And I've found that I cut myself at least once every time I
do any work on my car....or it seems like it anyway! Can't wait to see this car up and driving!! Jon
Yeah...I know...I know. I miss-read that so I just took what you had handy. No biggie. Went with the kicker 6.5" separates. So the hole is about 3/4" too big. O-well.
Just dropped the seats off to be re-done. They're going to be pretty awesome. I'll wait to show you all what I came up with. :-)
Headed home to crank on the brakes tonight. I also had an issue with the rear hubs feeling like they're loose. I think they just aren't right enough. We'll see!
you better get cracking on it the 18th is coming fast. after all the 12-14 hour days i had on it that car better make it to hershey even if it has to be pushed there lol
Weeeellllll look who it is....Dan the body guy! A lot of people want your number Dan. You did some great work on that car. Really nice job!
In the area, heck, I'll bring mine up on a trailer and rotisserie. You did some great work on that car.
And yes I agree with Chris
Yup. Dan's my body guy from now on.
I'm in DC with my family this weekend, and in Vegas all next week, so I've got next Fri-Sun and the nights the following week to get it wrapped up. I didn't take pics but the electrical is about laid out and the ECU is back from being re-worked, so I'm closer than I appear.
I really need to work out the hoses and routing for the radiator. That's going to take some imagination and work.
Drove home from DC this morning and just about met my motor guy in my driveway upon arrival. Good timing!
We got the motor unpacked and ready to attach to the trans. So that's what I did next!
After installing a new lightweight flywheel and organic racing clutch, I got everything put together and ready to go! Trans mated with no issues and the throw-out bearing snapped into place. Added the "magic flanges" because the time seemed right.
I lowered everything and had my neighbor and his son lift the car while I rolled the motor in place.
I'll get it jacked up and mounted this morning before I leave for Vegas. I'll be there a few days and then I'm back at this build until she starts.
My hope is, I'll be able to have it out to Matt's shop next Saturday morn to get the motor started and drive it home Sunday to install the interior. It'll be close. But I think I can do it.
No updates for a few days, as I've been in Vegas at a conference. I'm hitting it hard this week so I can drive it this weekend. Gotta make it happen!
Anybody want to come to Cleveland this weekend to help?
Doug, i'm not sure how you are going to get that on the road in a week! BUT you have some serious mad ninja build skills !
i hope all the electrical sorts out. it seems like that could be the only thing holding you back in the end. do you have the harness installed yet? wish i was going to Hershey this year, but seems i always have a conflict with C.E. conferences every april. - heck, its been a month since i started trying to get my brakes fully bled after replacing all the lines, calipers etc. so i hope that goes smoother for you than it has for me! - this might be the fastest build from tub to finish ive seen in being around the 914world the past 5 years! looking forward to more pics!!!!!!!
I plan on having the brakes done by midnight, and if I can get the wiring and ECU mounted that'd be a great day.
awesome, fast build.
Love the green stitching. Nice touch!
get back to work! when youre finished putting the scratches and greasy paw prints on it from assembly let me know so i can give it a final buff and glaze before anybody sees it
I went in to the office yesterday to grab something and ended up smack-dab in the middle of an emergency that the team was working on, so I didn't get back home until about 9p. No worrys...I've been in Vegas all week, and still working on "west cost time"
Worked till 2:30am on wiring....and I 'm up to go finish the job. This harness is SO easy to use. I'm going to go back through and mark all the wires I used, and where to use them so others can do this too. Even the good instructions are a little tough to understand.
Garrett is helping with wiring today, and I HOPE to get the cooling system plumbed at some point too. Gotta figure out the size hose I need, then I'm headed to McMaster Carr to pick up that and a few other do-dads.
Go speed racer, go!
I might have missed this part, but did you reinforce those wheel well cut outs? Looking good. I can't wait to see the total $$ build cost
The only way I could do this much work this fast is to have started 5 years ago, stored all the pics, and release them in sequential days. Awesome!
BTW, how will you cover the openings in the center channel?
This is the way the manufacturer should have made it so things are accessible.
Spent all morning working on the radiator and finishing up the wiring. Also stripped the paint off the rear tail lights and got them re-painted too. I'm going with black on them because the LEDs are bright enough.
Oh...I also got the motor/trans in the car. Clearances are perfect. Plenty of room. I'll be able to get the CVs in shortly and then will work on how in the hell I'm going to get water back there. Hmmmmmm....
Doug, I have some concerns about your radiator mount. Most of the time they are mounted into a channel at the bottom, padded, and a set of brackets at the top that clamp them in place. The bungs you used are normally for the fan assemblies to be mounted to. At least thats what my rock crawler friends. They say that using the bungs will cause the vibrations from the car to rapidly flex at that point causing them to crack, and leak. Thats what I have been told. Now rock crawlers might see more forces being applied to their rads than we would. But I noticed that my stock rads all use isolated pin mounts at the bottom, and isolated pin mounts at the top.
Ok. I'm calling it a night.
Got the dash mocked up. Plates show up Monday.
Got the engine all wired up, and the wires routed to the trunk wall for mounting. I'll hook up the ECU tomorrow and get that tidied up. The distribution block layout might change a few times...actually, I know it needs to.
Engine bay is starting to really come together. A few more doodads to add before I take it to the engine builder so I can get the inter cooler plumbed and ready to roll.
It's getting there...
very nice! its starting to look like a car again, get with me after you get it running ill finish buffing before hershey trip
Doug, let me know what other odds and end 914 pieces you need, I am sure I have them hoarded just for your build.
I PM'd you about the lens nuts.
Spent all morning getting the cable shifter installed and hooked up. Now I'm on the the radiator hose.
I welded a 3/4" square tube brace to the tunnel. Not that it needs more bracing, but the height was perfect for what I'm building as a center console.
I also added a little shrink-wrap to the nut that connects to the shifter linkage. This fattened it up perfectly. The only modification I made to Ian's piece was to make the hole in the Aluminium arm a little bigger so it matches the hole on the clevis fitting. We're in business now. VERY tight shifting pattern!
Just decided that I'm going to take the radiator hoses up the tunnel. I have a lot of Lava Mat left for the entire tunnel, and it'll be a lot cleaner than going through the longs or under the car.
I can take a 4" square piece of Lava Mat, stick it to my finger, and hold it 3" over the top of an open flame with almost no heat on my finger. I think it'll work real well.
Paint your PCBs black.
I'm planning on taking a spin Wednesday night. That'll give me Thursday night to check everything over before I drive off to Hershey on Friday.
I may not have rocker panels or even much of an interior, but I'll be driving it.
You are a mad, mad, man!
How about a few more details on the front trunk...?
Show/give some more details on the radiator...!
My only issues with down the tunnel would be the possibility of heating brake fluid, or the fuel. Warm fuel sucks, but pre heated brake fluid could become a safety issue.
Warm fuel = less power.
Warm Brake fluid, means your closer to boiling it. I hope it works, because that makes for a nice well protected easy to run location. Might want to add some shielding for the lines. I know you said Lava Rock, with out testing Im not sure how well that stuff truly works.
Are they going to be tubing of the steel or Al. kind, or hose like green stripe?
Great work on you build! Thanks for sharing the pictures!
For those wondering about LavaMat...
That's like 4-5 inches away. Tiny little flame.
I'll try with a torch...just for you Qarl.
At least you didn't stick it on your middle finger for the torch test!
How did you do those LED lights? What lens, and what LED pagage did I you use?
I spent an hour on re-building the proportioning valve tonight. I put it together wrong last time. Doh!
Then I ran the rear brake lines and played around in the front trunk a bit. Got the front marker lights wired up and installed. Then I moved to the ECU and got everything wired and ready to connect. Marking everything was important.
I also installed the wiper motor and squirters, only to realize I'm missing one of the rubber gaskets. Sent an email to Mark about that.
I'll have the spacers for the rear hubs tomorrow so I can get them installed along with the CV joints and then I should have a chance at making my deadline.
Tomorrow I'll finish the brakes and MAYBE get the radiator hoses set up. Past that it's going to be figuring out where the inter cooler stuff can go and finishing wiring. This is going to be close!
Doug, I am addicted to this thread. Can't believe how much work you are getting done so quickly, yet so well. You must be one hell of a project manager to keep yourself so focused and on task.
Ha! I'm the worst PM in the world. Even my PMs at the office would say the same thing. My ADD keeps me bouncing around different parts of the car. I think that's why it seems like I'm getting so much done.
Honestly, I wish I was further along. I have a lot to do in 3 days to get it on the road. With all of this, we had a client spring a surprise on us so I may have to run out if town tomorrow for the day. That'll put a big kink in my plans.
We shall see...
When are you cruising through to Hershey? I plan to leave Fri AM sometime. I am on the way and can help call you a two truck if you get a problem This is impressive
Don't sweat it. It won't happen till you hit 60. And at that point your ready for a little breather.
I just hope it doesn't happen before Friday. I need to keep the momentum up.
Less posting and more...
You need to...
And when it's finished you need to do a "class photo" of your subs. Just don't post any cost figures. Some of our wives read these things.
Ok. Back in the garage for the last hour or so. Here's what I got done.
The 5mm spacers came in from PM so I was able to get the back hubs, disks, calipers, and CVs installed. Tried the wheels on for size and realized the following:
A: 2" spacers in the rear are too much.
B: 1" spacers may be just right
C: I have a lot of negative camber in the front.
So now I'm 2" up front, 1" in the rear, and looking to replace these 100mm studs I bought! (Or at least put spikes on the end.)
...back to work on making brake lines.
Spent the remainder of the evening working on the brakes, exhaust, and axels.
The pedal cluster bolts weren't really long enough for me to get a good grip on everything after the Raptor Liner was sprayed on, and the plate for the clutch slave plate was installed, so I needed to make a few adjustments. I tool a cut-wheel and got rid of the captive bolts that were in place. Then welded up the cuts, ground them down, and re-painted it. I just left the 2 holes. I'll use bolts that are about 1cm longer so I can get the threads on and feel comfortable with the safety of it all.
I also forgot to add the CV joint gaskets, so I had to pull everything off and re-do those too. After buttoning everything up...again...I realized that I may need spacers between the trans and the magic flanges. HOPEFULLY I can just pull the flanges, but I may not have enough travel available for that, so I'll need to pull the drive-half of the CVs off again before I get on the road. It's starting to look like a proper car from behind though!
The exhaust is going to be trickier. The divorced down-pipe I have drops just a LITTLE too low for me to weld the can directly to. There's also the question of how I'm going to orient it. The thinking right now is that I'll cut a 2" section out where the bung for an O2 sensor was, and use that for my wideband, and then weld the exhaust to that. I'll have to curve around the engine cradle and leave myself enough room to still get to the cradle bolts if needed. In reality though, I shouldn't need to pull the engine without taking the exhaust off. It's only 3 bolts and it'll come out in one piece.
Wow! You are making great progress - looking good.
Wise man! Enjoy your kids!
Doug, great idea on the longer bolts (and spending time w/family). I have a unit here that I was about to ship but will modify it before releasing it.
Last night's progress: Watched MIB-2 with the family and consumed a pizza.
Tonight: Get a box of stuff ready to sell in Hershey. Maybe clean the car too?
Good call. Safe travels.
You need to fab something? I thought you bought Ian's kit? I can't imagine anyone's set-up extending further than the end of the shift rod, though!
I believe he's thinking for exhaust work.
I'll look at it tonight. I agree that it's not much past the Trans rod.
Pics in a bit. Stay tuned.
So after seeing people DRIVING their 914s, I'm motivated to get mine on the road!
Picked up a few goodies this weekend in Hershey. Headed out to the garage to put them to good use!
I'm out if town until Thurs morn, but plan on working hard Thurs afternoon, and then all day Fri and Sat. Hopefully I really can drive it on Sunday. Even just around the block would be nice.
Looking forward to the drive report!
Oh you tease, no pictures of the swap meet loot?
Swap meet loot for the 914 consisted of a 5-lug space-saver spare (that only ended up costing me $15), some 1" spacers, and stainless kick-panel plates. I'll take pics as they're installed. :-)
I'm on a plane to ATL right now and them head to SFO tomorrow. I'll be back in the garage Thursday to start on the home stretch.
I DID get the brake lines made up for the Boxster conversion last night...so that was cool. Now all I need is the set I ordered from Eric to show up, and I'll be stopping like a boss!
I did a ton of work this afternoon...but only took a few pics.
Made and bent the clutch line from the master to the slave. Needed to use 3 different thread ends and 2 flare types, but it's all good.
Made the double flares on the brake lines I made for the Boxster brakes to the soft lines. Those are good to go now.
Blasted and painted the seat rails, battery tray, and the gas tank. Those will all go in tomorrow.
The radiator tube was more flexible than I was expecting, spin was able to go through the longs there. I'll close up the hole I made to get them into the tunnel tomorrow.
I also filled in the exhaust cut-outs that the PO made in the bumpers. My exhaust will be very different. I'll work on that tomorrow too.
Picked up the dash plates today from the "The Metal Shop" in Maple Heights.
1/16" brushed stainless. I MAY paint these, or cover them in suede or vinyl. Haven't decided just yet. (photo of a quick test below.)
I made a couple of the holes just a smidge too small, so I need to open a few of them up, but that's not a bog deal at all. Especially considering that the other 100" holes are perfect.
I emailed a CAD file and picked this up a few days later. A+ in my book!
Here's a refresher of what I mocked up for the center console. The only difference is that I'll have an 8" sub in the back of it. I need to get in there to see where it'll fit and how I'm gong to seal it up. Other than that, the plates are the same.
Since you where going for the aircraft theme I would paint them car color. Most fighters are painted the same base color inside and out. Or a matte black. But that is just me,
Doug, what gauges are those? I like them a lot.
I am also considering suede for my /6 (someday).
If you go suede, make sure it's an automotive grade that can handle the heat/sunlight.
I've seen too many guys on my Lotus forums spend $$$$ on custom suede interiors only to have them deteriorate within a year.
How did you contact the gauge folks? All of there "contact us" links are dead. I need to find a place to make a custom gauge for my bike projects. I found a few places I liked, but they were not interested in motorcycle gauges due to weather proofing.
Never mind....one of their links on home page worked
I flat out cranked today.
Spent some time cleaning the garage and getting organized, then started on the painting that needs to get done. Also did quite a bit of sandblasting of parts.
Painted almost all the trim a darker version of my dove grey. Painted all the plates that color too, and built a few of them up.
I'll start on reassembling the doors and windows tomorrow.
Not much visible progress to report. Just a lot of wiring work and getting the interior measured out to install starting tonight.
The dash has been cut up and glassed in so I can cover it in vinyl. I still need to work out how I'm going to cover the tup of the gauges...that part can wait though. I'll clean up the tack welds soon. I'm planning on using some Bondo to make those transitions a lot nicer before I cover it in vinyl or Alcantara.
I (finally) got the steering wheel back from Alan Gun in Plantation Florida. I think he did an "OK" job on it. Not worth the money I paid to have it done, it looks decent, and is a better job than I'd have done.
I'll just leave this F4 Phantom ejection seat handle here, because you could totally mod this into an e-brake lever...
Or you could get a pair of full Ejection Seats for like $2200 a pop. Really complete the look!
Doug, it looks like you are 90% done with 90% to go. Looking nice!
90%: totally agree! That's what it feels like too.
I've had a lot of personal stuff to deal with this week, but I'm going to start hitting it hard tomorrow.
That ejector handle is awesome. That's how I already have my e-brake and seat movers painted up.
I actually looked at aircraft seats. Everything I could find was way too wide, or way too tall. They'd be awesome for racing though. Real high bolsters.
The interior is important, but right now I need to concentrate on all the little crap that needs to get done. Wiring. Radiators. Intercooler. Those are the top priorities.
Ha. Yeah, look back a few pages. The seats are re-covered...and awesome. I'm hoping the Alcantara keeps me stuck in the middle.
Ok. Lots to talk about.
I need to add more pics later...
I got the pedal clister and masters installed. Them moved to wiring.
Since I didn't have the connection to the wheel any more, I soldered leads on the I can connect up to the harness I have. Should be all set, as I've toned everything out.
Finished adding dynamat to the entire interior and doors. Dead as dirt now. Going to be great.
Painted a the trim, and drilled out the holes for the LED holders I have. There will be 5 lights in the targa bar trim that should keep people off my ass.
Took a day off to be with my family, and then hit the garage yesterday.
Realized that for the 2nd time, I'd built the proportioning valve wrong. So...back apart again. I'm getting good at this! The trick is to replace 2 bolts first with real long ones, then back it out that way. Installation is the reverse. No muss no fuss.
Then I started on door seals and working towards getting the windows back in. The new triangle seals from 914rubber.com are really pretty awesome. Took lots of stretching and prodding but I'm locked in place now.
One thing I'm stuck on is the vertical targa seal. 1: Is this installed correctly. 2: should I cut the rest off?
I got the rear brakes all set, and am missing a fitting that'll let me complete the front. Need to call Eric on that today.
Today I'm going to finish the radiator and get that started. I can start the thing without an intercooler...but not without water.
The end of the vertical seal at the top (your picture) is incorrect.
Porsche Panorama had an article on this , and I do remember that the instructions were to carefully trim an angle to match the angle where there Targa top window seal meets it. In essence: both edges may require a careful trim ( at their meeting point) and would look like a 45° joint. Since the top clamps down with pressure, allow enough extra material to ensure air+water tight sealing and should help eliminate Targa top rattles as well.
So I need to push it down further than I have it now? If there's a "finished" end like that, I'm assuming that it would go on top so water wouldn't leak down inside of it and become trapped.
Get the top on and inspect how the two seal interact before you cut anything.
Yeah...I need to get the top on sooner or later. Now I just need to find it. :-)
I'll be back in the garage later today and the first thing I'll be doing is checking the top out. I want to get the seals done so I'll have one less thing to worry about at the end of the build. The body work is all done now, so the seals are just one more thing I can do now to feel like I'm making progress.
My hope is to have the seals in, and the doors full of windows and electronics by the end of the day.
So I didn't touch the doors today. I focused on the exhaust and radiator. Can't start the car without either of those!
The exhaust wasn't all that hard after I started in on it. I needed to cut the Crucial down-pipe to make it a little shorter, and bent out to move away from the engine cradle. After welding those up, I ground it all down and welded it to the exhaust.
But I didn't end up doing that great of a job. I'm askew just a little bit. No biggie, I'll just rotate it later and re-weld the pipe.
With the radiator, I changed the size of the holes, and made way for rubber grommets. After welding it into place, I feel good about the fit. The grommets give me enough "wiggle" so it's not solid on the chassis. I'll make up a shroud later after I get the tubing run.
Those grommets might come back to bite ya, Doug.
What would be a better idea?
Here is a very clean Install, and the frame makes attaching the shroud easy.
From a post by joefri187
The radiator is floating, not bolted directly to the frame as I've heard that bolting directly to the frame can cause the radiator to crack as there is a lot of expansion when hot...
It sits on rubber mounts on the bottom and bolted on through rubber grommets along the top edge.
And yes, it works great and everything stays cool!!!
I think Kent has a good point. It is nice to have your radiator floating.
Check Summit, http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/radiator-mounting-brackets
or just Google; Radiator mounts images for ideas.
Alright. I think I see how I can modify what I have already welded in place, to accommodate a truly floating radiator setup.
Started wiring the motor to the Hydra today. After that it's the rest of the wiring. Hope to finish wiring tomorrow at some point!
I would fab a U shaped bracket lined with rubber that rad would sit in. This would support the weight & then the top brackets would only be holding it from moving front to back. Top brackets can also be U shaped/rubber lined over the top of the rad & then bolted into your top bar.
Yeah. On further investigation, I'm going to re-work that setup after I get it running. Today I'm concentrating on wiring and the intercooler. Those two pieces need to get done, and I'll order some parts for the radiator doin can tackle that later.
I've got the entire interior dynamat-ed and just picked up the banjo bolt I needed to finish the brakes. I forgot (somehow) that Stoddard is about 10min from my house, so I can pick up parts from them for the "Porsche" pieces of the car a lot faster than I realized.
Besides the rubber U cradles (most cars have at least those) you can pick up radiator bolts that are really just rubber pieces with threaded shanks coming out either end. One bolts into the radiator, the other into your support bracket. That way it really does float and absorb all that nasty vibration and the U cradle simply is a soft place for it to sit. Check at Honda, Toyota and Nissan dealers- not really sure if yer local Auto Zone would have those... I just think so many of us are in awe of your progress that we'd cry if you had a coolant meltdown!
Finished all the brake lines today, but haven't bleed anything yet. Still have the gas tank in/out so much to work out the radiator hoses. Which I finally did today.
Bent down one of the ribs in the gas tank, and cut a few openings. Now I'm in business. I need to put a valve in to relieve air, but I'll make it work.
Took this just before I finished it. Radiator: Plumbed!
I hope your hose mating holds up. I would not trust it in my car. You can find transitions and put some humps on them, or get the from places like http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_Cooling_TransHoseSplicers.html Then use a quality clamp and not the worm gear clamps. They will cut into the hose and cause failures down the road.
You can bead transitions if you find them locally using a beading tool, or build one out a vice grip and muffler clamps. You can slap solder, braze, Mig or Tig a bead onto material if need be. I have used all the above methods with success. In a bind depending on the tubing size you can also cut threads into the OD. And you can use epoxy to build your hump. Though I don't like the last one nearly as well.
Also, please put some protection around your hoses where ever they go through bulkheads, they will wear really fast in those areas. I am sure you have thought about that and the picture just don't show it.
Just trying to get you to and keep you
Keep up the great work Doug
I have better threaded transitions on order already. That's why I left all the hose a little long. It'll be easy to add them, and I need to keep moving.
I put a bunch of seam sealer in the opening so I'm not rubbing against metal. Again, I'll add more later after everything is together and I know where the "run spots" are. Mocking everything into its final position right now is key.
I'm kinda stuck on the fuel pump. Originally I was going to use the stock in/out of the tank and mount the fuel pump externally. Now I'm looking at cutting the tank and using the Subaru one. One of the outputs on my Walbro pump is too shallow to mount anything to. Back to the drawing board there I guess.
the beading that runs along the sides of a engine lid might dress out the hole and protect the coolant hoses.
For a new in-line fuel pump and re-did the lines to the tank. I also finally got the last piece to my master cylendar for the clutch.
The issue I have now is the clutch slave isn't moving. I've blead the line...but it won't budge. Just still feels like there is no resistance. Fluid squirts out when I'm bleeding it. But it doesn't move at all. I'm stumped.
Did you bench bleed your new master? Could still have a bubble inside.
The slaves I've dealt with will bleed fluid all day long but they need actual pumping to get them to activate. You've probably done that- I'm just throwing in my 2 cents...
If you push the master, the slave should move the same relative amount. If not, there is air in the system. Hydraulic fluid does not compress easy like air.
Gawd. Ok. I'll dig into it tonight. Such a pita.
I've put 8oz through the slave and still not engaging. I'm starting to think it may be the master.
The bubble is in the master. That's why you bench bleed. Then you take the drippy messy thing to the car and try to install it without spilling brake fluid everywhere.
BTW, I'm running a Howe 5/8" master with my stock VW slave. Not sure what size the VW slave is but it bolts right onto the Cayman 6 speed. Works great!
Search "bench bleeding clutch master cylinder". There are several videos that are quicker than explaining with my limited vocabulary. It takes some force to push in the plunger but it will go. Or, bench bleed it in place and have someone pump the pedal for you.
Bench Bleeding: Got it! That seems like the issue I'm having. I imagine it has something to do with the master being at an angle down there. I'd tried to do it with my "Power Bleeder" but the result was the cap blowing off the master and a puddle of fluid on the garage floor.
Anybody want to come help me finish this thing? I could use a 'friend' in the garage.
For the last several weeks, I've been having trouble staying focused. I'm about to go through a very sad separation/divorce and have almost no motivation to work on this car right now. I'm just emotionally exhausted.
So...if someone wants to come up for a weekend to play in my garage and help me knock through the list of "to-do's" I'm happy to get you a ticket if I can.
Just throwing it out there...
Aw man I'm so sorry to hear this. I'm too far away to be of any real help to you. I'm sure the OH 914 Mafia will be here to help you shortly, Doug.
Sorry dude. I'm about to fly off for vacation for a few weeks, or I'd head out.
Take care of YOURSELF first. The car is just a material possession.
Be happy for the future. Have a beer (or something stiffer) and look out for your own interests first. Divorces can be messy and stressful. Listen to you attorney.
Take it a day at a time, and go hammer on the car if you need to get away.
Lemme check my schedule and see if I am able to get free.
PM or txt me and I bet we can work something out.
Sorry Doug, I have my own fish to fry. I'm supposed to finish two cars by next weekend. Heat is on here.
Got a second wind today.
Bench blead the masters, then the clutch and brakes. Not a fun "one man" job, but I got it close and was able to chase leaks. I should be good for now. I can feel the clutch engaging and the brakes pushing.
Now I'm wresteling with the wiring diagram. This is going to be a lot of work, but I think I have a good bit of it sorted. Need a few relays I wasn't planning on. No worries there.
I think I'm going to tackle the tail lights and then start in on the headlight buckets while I ponder the wiring.
That's the trick. If something stumps me I move on to something else and return to it later. Just keep moving forward, always forward.
Looks like the good Dr (or the Evil one anyway) is coming out this week for a few days to assist me with the wiring. That's really the last major piece before I can get it to the engine guy to finish the inter cooler and turbo lines.
I may be driving it in a week after all!
Just make sure the Dr doesn't touch a welder while he's there.
Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing the result when it's done.
Doug as I have said else where I would love to come up, yet I am booked solid for several weeks. I get you got torpedoed, I would be devastated also. As I am sure you have figured out life moves on..... Control what you can control, the only people who really win in this situation is the Lawyers.
It will be july before I get a free day, if your still struggling then I'll gladly lend a hand where I can. BTW, I make a pretty mean brisket, and pork butt. So if you need to feed some guys for the final push an its in July, I can offer my smoker and skills to feed a much more mechanically skilled group, than I am.
Thanks guys. I'm actually feeling better.
Spent 2-3hrs in the garage cleaning and organizing today. Then I got busy on some of the wiring. Started wiring the hydra to distribution blocks. This will make wiring easier.
18 down, 40 to go!
Now that I have a plan for the wiring, it should go a lot quicker. I need to get some more terminal ends though.
Shit, what the hell will be left for me?
Edwin....that was a low blow you fucker Just kidding I have recently purchased a TIG, though. It has yet to arrive. I have been practicing my MIG skills and they aint bad. Spool gun MIG with AL is not great...I hope to do better with TIG. See me when I get down there in Aug for my transmission clinic that may be moved again. Gonna be in Canberra.
Let me know guys... busy as shit right now but I can free some time up if we have a plan.
CptTripps wrote - "DrEvil will be at my house this Wed/Thurs. Come up after work and play with us. Should be a good time."
That sounds sooooo wrong.
Noooooo...let's right the ship on this one boys...
I'm picturing something more like this:
Who gets to be Will Ferrell?
Dude. We're TOTALLY doing Karate in the garage. We just need to move a car out first.
I'll buy a watermelon and bring my samurai sword home for the office. It's no signed by Randy Jackson or anything though.
I don't see why a couple dudes can't spoon and have it not be gay
just try to refrain from sword fighting and above all else DO NOT tea bag the drums or the car!
Let you know Doug... have union negotiations Thursday so who knows how that will go... considering I did such a good job last one
It'd be great if you could come up tomorrow OR Thursday Todd. Seriously, it'd be a big help.
Here's the list of things I need to do on the car.
Lots-O-Wiring (DrEvil actually WANTS to do this one.)
ECU Mounting after I finish the pre-wiring. (I'll have that done tonight though.)
Headlight buckets. (I need the plastic grommets to finish this, I can't find them anywhere.)
Intercooler air tubing installation.
Intercooler radiator and canister installation.
Brake and clutch re-bleeding.
Throttle cable installation. (This is a bitch to try to get through that tube, I'm just going to re-drill a hole for it.)
Radiator fill-valve installation.
Window and windshield installation.
There's an oil line for the turbo that I need to install and route. I think it connects to the AOS that I have. Need to double-check that part.
The seats and carpet can wait until I have something wired up properly TO install them in. I'm going to work on making the center console tonight. I also need to cover the dash in the vinyl I have so that can be ready for DrEvil to wire things into.
Headlight buckets. (I need the plastic grommets to finish this, I can't find them anywhere.)
I just cut up a front clip, I should have these,your taking the pivot arms bushings, right?
I actually need the drop-link arm, bushings, and rotator thingy for both. I have 1 sides arm, but am missing the other bushing. I need the part that attaches to the motor, another drop-link like this, and all the bushings. If you have the stuff, can I buy them and pay for you to overnight them? I need to get this stuff tightened up on Thurs when Mike is still here. (He's doing the wiring with me.)
If not, that's fine too. I just need the parts.
Can't make it dudes...sorry duty calls
Well is not how it is going
Yes, I have all the stuff, don't worry about it, you can cover shipping, I'm not worried about making money, I was going to scrap them anyway.
PM me if you still need them.
Oh I'm WELL aware of what he's...er...capable of. Why do you think I left the garage open all day?
what is the brand of the headlights?
No they're probably working on the bunk beds.
Haven't had a lot of time to work on much. DrEvil CRUSHED the wiring. It'll be easy to finish up from here. I'll take pics later.
Did my 3rd brake light this am, by drilling holes in the back bar, taping off the holes, adding a clear epoxy and inserting LED lights. It's pretty bright, and doesn't detract at all from the lines of the car.
Later today: Starter and Coil relays. Wire up the Hydra. Start working on the interior so I can ship it to my motor builder to make all my air flow work. We're getting close!
My new/realistic deadline is to have it driving for the Stoddard meet in 2 weeks. I'm pretty sure I can make that one!
Ok...lots of progress....that doesn't look like much, so I didn't take pics.
Put a plate together for the Hydra to mount in the trunk. I wasn't going to, but with the amount of things I needed to mount on that panel, and the thickness of the steel I was going to have to drill through, this was a better option than velcro. (Cleaner too.) So I got the panel all drilled out and ready to mount.
I also ran the starter relay and finished wiring the coil and injectors up to relays. I don't like the relays I bought, so I'm going to buy some 40A later today and use those instead of the 10A I had.
Wiring for the engine should be done tonight. Then I get to tackle the intercooler and figuring where in the hell I'm going to mount the radiator for that...and the tank...and how to tube the whole thing. That's the last major piece before the interior.
I already have the carpet all cut. I need to have a few pieces bound at the edges and then cover the dash and fire-wall with....something. I'm still not sure how I want to do that part. If I have enough carpet left, perhaps that's my best option. I'll figure that out later though.
Just waiting on the parts for the headlight motors and I can get that piece worked out.
So...that's my punch-list right now. It's a few more days of hard work, but I hope I can get it done in time for the Stoddard meet.
We shall see. I know I'm on the home-stretch at this point. No longer 90% with 90% to go for sure.
The engine wiring is all in the trunk, and the Hydra is completely wired to the terminal blocks. Everything is shrink-labled at both sides, so I can't imagine that it'll take long at all. I just ran out of crimp ring connectors or I'd have kept going last night. I ordered more, and bought enough this AM at Radio Shack to finish off the major pieces. The starter relay seems a little TOO heavy-duty for what I'm going for so I was going to replace that with a smaller one I ordered.
After that, it's a matter of wiring up the interior, which DrEvil did an outstanding job of pre-wiring with Molex connectors for me.
If I can get the car to at least turn, I think I'm close enough that I can get somewhere in pretty short order. The dash gauges may be an issue, as I don't thin I gave myself enough clearance in the back. Gotta ponder that one today in between meetings.
Here's the punch-list.
Looks long, but some of these are 10-min jobs. Stuff with and "*" are being done by my engine builder. He's going to work on it while I'm in Atlanta this weekend. Said everything is already mocked-up so it'll just be putting everything together.
Complete Engine Wiring Complete Hydra Wiring *Mount Fuel Pressure Regulator *Mount Boost Solenoid
*Mount Radiator For Intercooler
*Plumb Water Lines To Intercooler
*Plumb Air-Oil Separator
Finish Radiator At The Engine
Add Radiator Relay
Finish Headlight Buckets
Install Accel Cable
Build Center Console
Mount/Wire Speakers In A-Pilars
Mount/Wire Door Speakers
Mount/Wire Sub Amp
Mount/Wire Power Windows
Mount/Wire Power Locks
Mount Windshield (Recover Dash First)
Mount Back Glass (Recover Firewall First)
3Rd Brake Light Wiring
Windshield Wiper Motor
Windshield Washer Motor
Mount Door Handles
If your in Atlanta on Sunday you need to go to caffine and octane (7am til 11am) car show.
Let me know and I'll meet you there.
Actually, that may be cool. Where's it at? I'll have my kids with me and they're really into cars now that mine LOOKS like a car.
We leave for CLE at 4:30 so if it's close to Buckhead where we're staying, I'll be there.
More of what McMark would call "Digital Progress" but I got the decal sheet done today. Still not sure if I actually want to sue them or not, but I have the vinyl cutter...and I have the vinyl. Easy enough to cut and I can change my mind later.
Doh! Autocorrect fail.
Keep on rolling Doug...you are on the home stretch.
looking good Doug!
send pictures of the turbo oil and water cooling systems please.
need to finalize mine.
Spent all night on wiring. Then I ran out of crimp ends. I have all the wires installed on the engine and marked off where they go on the Hydra blocks, so I'll have that wrapped up later today.
My water cooler still eludes me. I keep going back/forth as to where I want it mounted.
Looking at that pic, I should clean those up a bit to make things easier down the line. An extra hour on this side will make for a more refined look down the line.
I just picked up 6 3/4" spacers to raise the panel off of the wall a little bit. That'll give the wire more room too. I was hoping to get a 8-10" service loop behind it to make moving the panel a little easier too.
So I *should* be all the way wired later tonight. Still pondering the intercooler stuff here and there. I think I have a plan now. Need to dry-fit it first though.
are you planning on some sort of heating system to tie in to the cabin? the wiring job is as clean as they come. top shelve. hard to believe its the same car that came from the far north cal coast.
Wiring for the engine is complete. Except for the ignition coil pack relays for power. Working on the boost solenoid and fuel system tonight after the kids go to bed.
Here's what it looks like now.
You better finish this and bring it to Ockteenerfest because I really want to see this car!
Getting closer and looking good, Doug. Is that Tefzel wire? You just reminded me I need to get busy cleaning up my electrical Rat's Nest.
Got a shit ton done tonight.
Fuel system: Complete (tank to rails to pressure reg...good to go!)
Hydra Wiring: Complete (just need to connect the wide-band at the exhaust)
Boost Solenoid: Complete (wired and vac lines run)
Throttle Cable: Complete (had to build a custom cable mount)
Starter Relay: Complete (it turns over and everything!)
I still need to clean everything up with zip-ties and such, but everything is where it should be and it's easy to make it look nice from there.
Feeling good about this guys...really starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
Getting close to tire smoke!
I'm still a little stuck on the throttle and how to connect it to the stock (new) 914 cable. The subaru uses a lug at the end, and the 914 has the pressure-pole-thingy. Right now, just putting it in there holds just fine. I just want to make sure it's solid.
The other issue I saw was that the starter only moves one wheel when I'm in gear and turn it over. I'm hoping (praying) that it's because both the wheels aren't on the ground. I would have expected one wheel to go one way, and the other to spin the opposite direction. I need to check that when I get home. ;(
I think that is actually normal. Ask Ian. Your trans has an open diff like mine. That's why it was such a pain in the arse to tighten the nut on the diff locker because you don't get any opposing tension like you do with the older ones. You get no tension at all.
Take a read of this when you have a little free time...
As you may know the Subie trans is known as the weak spot, but primarily that's due to the fact that they are AWD so when the clutch is dumped at 7000 rpm after a surge of adrenaline the wheels cannot spin easily and the CV joints are extremely sturdy. For this reason "Scotty" has come up with a mixture of trans fluids that he believes helps lengthen the life of the 5MT trans. This is really just FYI...don't feel like you have to do this. Just Subie trans education for you. It's fine to use the OEM stuff but in case you're concerned about it or maybe after you thrash it a bit you'll at least have this top of mind. I might use it just because I have NO IDEA what my trans has been through up to now. You've just got a LITTLE more hp than stock so that's why I threw it out there.
Here you go Doug. This is from the horses (Steve aka Porcharu) mouth.
I used all my pipe up on another project. It's 1" pipe schedule 10, fits perfect. I actually think this spacer is not needed as the aftermarket axles have long splines and just let the CV slide around, but if you can get the pipe and cut 4mm slices I would do it.
That's what I was looking for. Thanks!
I went over to NASIOC and copied the recipe. I've ordered everything and it should be here by Monday.
Here's the cocktail: (With links to buy the stuff on Amazon)
I've stayed here a dozen times but normally on the 14th or 15th floor. I needed 2 connecting rooms this time. They have me 912 and 914. Not too shabby.
Spent about 2h in the garage last night running the accelerator cable to the pedal, and contemplating the air/water intercooler setup. The others I've seen have flopped the intake and moved the radiator. I don't think this is an option for me, as I've got a lot of other custom stuff up there that'll prohibit the move. So I need some tight radiuses and maybe a different can for the intercooler.
Off to the interwebs to find a better can for my application.
919 wouldn't happen. There are no "odd" numbers in a lot of asian hotels. (Mandarin Oriental is where we were.)
I THINK I just figured out my intercooler issue. If I mount the radiator on the decklid, and convert it to a "GT" style lid, I can mount the rest of it underneath. The tubing is still going to be plentiful, but with some 3" and 2.25" silicone tubing and elbows, I'll be able to get it done without any welding.
I have a fan for it so I was thinking I just needed to pull air into it. Do I need to run more lines from the radiator for it? That's going to be a giant pain in the ass, but better I learn now, than after I finish building the center console.
Would this be an appropriate place to mount the intercooler radiator? Is having an "air gap" going to mess anything up? (the distance between the two radiators.)
I'm going to hate having SOMETHING ELSE up the center tunnel, but this seems like the only option. The tubes won't be all that hot anyway, just the water from the intercooler. The extra length may give it more time to cool down anyway.
I'd remove the fan from it, and maybe use that as a secondary fan for the radiator. It's smaller, but could work well as a secondary.
That would make for a lot of air mass to move a long distance before getting to your engine. I think that would be problematic, but I do not know for sure.
I forgot to post a pic of what I have right now to play with.
It's called a "Type 13" on the frozenboost websiite.
From the first set of pictures, I have the first on. You don't need to have that much space as it is cold water being cooled. You can mount the radiator and fan in the engine compartment and call it done. I will post a pic of my set up later.
Ah, yes. The water cooler. My bad :duh:
Might have to notch the rear trunk for the intercooler.
I wish I could use the trunk. All my wiring goes there and it'd be a serious project to move it.
I'm working on the interior now. Need to have some noticeable progress or I'm going to drive myself insane. I'll take the car to my engine builder and we can figure out the intercooler over a weekend or something. It's just too much for me to think about right now.
Working on the center console and I'm realizing the plates I had made up are TOO big for a reasonably sized center. I'm going to re-design that tomorrow when I'm at the office. Not too bad actually. Just a few adjustments and I'll make the new board out of a piece of perforated Aluminum I have. Could look cooler ultimately too.
So....my center console idea didn't pan out how I'd wanted. The plates I had made were just a little (lot) too wide. So, it looks like I'm starting over on the center console idea. I think I have a plan though.
I can make it shorter, giving me ample room in the back for my feet, and POSSIBLY add the sub too.
Here's the new plate I'm working out. I'll incorporate the nav system and switchboard into the same plate, giving me more room for things. It'll also be wide enough at the front to JUST snug over the center support and leave me plenty of travel for the shifter.
I had to do a running total for Hagerty.
Adding up receipts isn't EVER a good idea.
Good news: I can justify $40K in coverage pretty easily.
Bad news: I could have bought a 2001 996 Turbo and been driving it right now.
Spent the evening with my turbo. I THINK the plan I put together is solid. A few mods but nothing crazy. I also found the part I've been looking for to join the turbo's oil intake to the motor. Whew. That one was going to be a PITA if I had to re-build my own. Minor victories add up over time.
In other news, the donor for my next build showed up last night. 2005 Saab 92x with some motor issues.
Still limping along...but I think I figured out the Intercooler stuff...finally. But I don't like the answer.
I'm going to move and re-wire the ECU so I can cut through the area I have it mounted and get it into the trunk. I'll mount the radiator for it under the car as planned, and be in business. Re-wiring isn't going to be all that hard, and I think I can leave everything I have pretty much in place. Thank god I have a separate set of wiring that I bought for the Hydra. I'll just use those.
Hitting it HARD today. Getting somewhere too!
Moved the ECU and all that pretty wiring I did. Need room for the intercooler! I bought a bunch of 2.5" pipe and bends. Then started cutting.
I also figured out where to mount the radiator. Should be perfect, but the water pump may be tough. Gotta play with that a but yet.
Bitchin'. Definitely worth moving the wiring for.
Been helping D914 with his car. I remounted the inter cooler for him. He's using a outfront turbo pipe that mounts the turbo to the front of the engine. Hope to have this going for him SOON.
Remote liquid intercooler is awesome! Guess I missed that. Carry on!
Here's how I'm thinking I route the filler for the intercooler. Since I need to fill at the highest point, I'm thinking here is a good place to start. This will let me mount the pump under the car and not have to worry about it getting choked up with air. (In theory anyway.)
I'll be routing the tubing inside the trunk compartment so the lines don't get too hot by being next to the exhaust. Really the only way I CAN do it. So I guess my thoughts of a waterless trunk are kinda out the window. I'm going to have to make up a plate on risers for the ECU and wiring too then. Maybe a double-stack kinda configuration. That'll limit my ability to monkey with the wiring if I ever need to, but I could likely do it where with 4 wingnuts, I'm in good shape. Who knows...I'll have to get in there and see what's possible after I get the radiator mounted and plumbed.
This is a royal PITA, and I hope I only have to do it once. I'm really looking forward to my FactoryFive 818 build this winter. Having a mid-engined car with INSTRUCTIONS will take a lot of the "How in the f%@k am I going to engineer this?" out of the equation.
Don't forget there will be a big bubble of air inside the intercooler. This will be above the level of the pipe fitting. Leave it loose so you can lift one end after filling with water. The pump alone will not be able to get the bubble out.
Just stopped at Doug's place. Nice project! Lots done! September is the month Doug!
Looking like I will be moving closer, soon WCH area.
WCH = Washington Court House, OH 43160
I know... I know... will do soon. Work has just been a bitch recently
OK Doug, . No updates in 9 days. You don't even want to know what page I found this on. Is it at the mechanic's, yet?
I wish it was at the mechanic's. I ran into an issue a few weeks ago and then "life got in the way" as it does for so many.
I discovered I hand' even thought about having a blow-off valve which means I need to tear things back apart and start over on my Air-Water intercooler. What a PITA.
I'll get back to it soon. Need to concentrate on family and work for a few more weeks. After that, I AM close. Just don't have time for the garage right now. Sorry guys.
If I can't get to it in a few weeks, I've honestly been considering just selling it off. I wan't have time to finish it in the next few months and it may be a necessity if things go south at work. I'm just sick over the whole situation. If I could even just find someone to hand it off to to finish for me, that'd be awesome too. Again...there is a lot up in the air.
Sorry to hear that, Doug. Let me know if I can help. Life can be an utter fugging bitch with moments of happiness intertwined. Take what it gives you and leave the rest. Here is to hoping everything works out for you, soon! Kent
Everyone gets to "that point" Doug....hang in there man. You'll get more satisfaction (and money) out of it finished. I was so determined not to have mine off the road for long but have stopped working on it a couple times and stepped away. It's good to give a project a rest sometimes.
Plus.... IT'S A FRIGGIN' JET FIGHTER PLANE 914 WITH HUNDREDS OF HORSEPOWER!!!!!! YOU ARE THE PILOT!!!!! IT SAYS SO RIGHT ON THE STICKER!!!!!
Thanks guys. I appreciate the support. I just got REAL stuck on a few things that I need to work through on it. REALLY helps to have someone else in the garage with you. Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of people in this area that could come out and help for a few days.
I'm still forever grateful to Dr. Evil for getting my wiring sorted for me. I'm sure I had a lot less into the wiring than a lot of people would have, and that made all the difference for me. I just wish I understood more about it so I could finish off what he started. Having to re-locate the ECU was a pretty major blow too.
The major things left on the list are the plumbing for the last bits of the intercooler, including the blow-off valve. I'll get out there tonight and finish the radiator for that. I also need to re-work my engine radiator tubing so it is more trustworthy. I need to get some fillers int there so I have a way to get the water INTO the hose. Past that, it's all the little bits-and-pieces that are starting to mount up.
I'm getting back in the groove. Made a list of stuff I need last night. Located a bunch of them, need to go out to you all for the rest.
The two most pressing things I need:
Window-track fuzzys for the rear part of the door.
Headlight dog-bones and the rotators for the motors. Bushings too.
914 rubber has the fuzzy's
IIRC, I bought my headlight bushing kit from Carrie @ 914central
The metal pieces are more important. I can't finish the headlights without them, and cant finish up the front without finishing the headlights.
Got a local guy to make me 10 1"-OD stainless pieces to use on my radiator hose joints. Found 2 filler valves I can use, and with an hour of work tonight, I should have that all ready to go. After that, I need to re-wire things up and get a blow-off valve involved somehow. That should let me start the motor, which would motivate the hell out of me to finish this thing.
I dropped you a PM about the head light parts.
Scotty is just being an ass hat.
I have some time I might be able to come out. Main thing is I have a back log of transmissions to build that need to be cleared out first.
No worries. I'm a way out from needing more help in that department.
I'm going to concentrate on the interior and seals over the next week or so. The engine stuff can be worked out by people smarter than me after a spell. IF I can get the interior done, I'll feel like I'm making progress so that'll help mentally.
I was in Cleveland again Friday but only long enough to pick up the Mercedes. I wanted to come check the progress but the phasers in my truck went south. I was lucky to make it home. Remember 9-14-14
Just make sure the seats are easily removed and the dash is not blocking up the wiring as it will make finishing up that part a crap load more difficult. Send me a list of things you still need done as far as wiring and I can get a plan together.
The Rotten Dr has a point. The interior should be the last thing to go in for several reasons. Besides, you can throw it in quickly once you've got things as you want them. Just saying..........
I've literally lost almost all motivation with this right now. Sorry for not having any updates. "Life" threw me a bunch of curve-balls recently and it may be a while. I'm super pissed that I can't get it on the road, because I think it would help my mental state to be able to drive it. I'm just 'stuck' on too many things right now and would need someone experienced to come in and fix things so I can keep moving.
Keep at it Doug. Life will sort itself out.
My wife moved out with the kids last week, so the car has been the last thing on my mind lately. Really sucks, as this would be perfect to drive right now as a "pick me up" that I sure could use.
I've put a few feelers out to people that may be able to help me get the mechanical stuff sorted, but everyone is too busy right now. The things holding me from getting it running are:
Radiator Hose burps and fill valves
Proper routing of the oil lines
Blow-Off valve fabrication. (I can't believe I forgot about this one.)
Re-wire the ECU (This is the easiest piece once everything else is done.)
After that, it should fire right up. Getting that list hammered out has proven to be the death of me though.
I might be able to make a trip up and help you out
Dude... I have no experience with any of that but I have some skills.
My schedule is always a train wreck but you say when and I am there.
Stay strong man... Life is a series of speed bumps.
Thanks for the support guys.
If I knew where to start, or even knew where to start, I'd invite you all up in a heartbeat.
I think the air-flow piping for the intercooler and such is the biggest issue for me. Welding has never been my strong-suit, and certainly the number of bends and breaks isn't helping. To weld in the BOV in the limited space I have isn't making things any easier.
Ugh...I wish there was someone I could cart the car off to for a week to finish this stuff for me so I can get to the interior, which I'm actually looking forward to.
Sorry to hear about the life events unfolding for you.
I got frustrated, stuck and demotivated more than a few times during my restoration. In my experience, I was better off stepping away from the project for a bit when it happened, rather than working pissed off. Most times, I gained some clarity and perspective during the break.
Good luck with everything Doug.
My biggest frustration is that I could really use the "pick me up" of driving it to work every day, but at this rate, I won't finish until the snow flies...
It's a hobby Doug. You'll spoil the fun and enjoyment if you push it. How do you eat an elephant?...
this is an amazing build.......
Don't worry about leaving the car in the garage until you're ready to get back to it. It won't go anywhere, it'll actually marinate, get better, and will be ready for you when you're ready for it. I've been through the divorce thing too, and it's a process, really is those steps of grieving. May not believe it now, but things will get better. For real. To the point where you can't even imagine any more how you got through the last few crappy years you were married.
A little later I'm on my way over to see my granddaughter and chase my son through the Santa Cruz hills in his 914/WRX. Sourdough, Crab Louis and good wine in the redwoods, a perfect weekend, and you know what? I won't think of the ex even once, but if I do it will be in amazement at how good things have been since she's been gone. And believe me, the kids will understand too.
And if/when you're ever in California, any part, north or south, you're more than welcome to take my car out, thrash it. That should recharge things on the car front. Whenever you're ready.
Hey Doug! The stuff to plumb my turbo should be done next week. I will send you pictures here as soon as I have them. Oil and collant.
Your build has kept me inspired. Now I can return the favor!
Put the interior together. Hell, I put mine together and. Know I need to pull it apart again to do the throttle cable and shift rod. Let's face it, it will be a fun project. As you're assembling it, keep in mind that you need to make it easy to pull back apart. Get some black vinyl for gluing in where the body isn't covered by carpet. Takes time to cut out all strips
Thanks again for all the support. I'm starting to get a bug up my butt to finish this thing. I still want to drop it off to have someone else work on the motor. I've come too far to have it screwed up by my "below average" mechanic skills.
I have a few people lined up right now. If I'm not under the gun, this should go a lot smoother.
I'm with you Doug...there were a couple of things that most people think are pretty do-able in the conversion process but I DON'T so I paid someone to do it right (or someone did it for me just to be nice, like Kent). Nothing wrong with that.
Sorry to hear about the current curve ball, the great thing about these forums is you have supporters, passionate people and gurus always willing to help.
I'm about 3hrs from you, but willing to come up to knock out a couple of things.
For the BOV, you could snatch a simple bov pipe for cheap and simply put it in-line with the rest of the piping.
You should have enough room between the turbo and the water-cooler to get it mounted.
I'm sure there's a lot of discussion around placement, and this made sense to me:
There ya go Doug; the answer to your prayers. Looks like you'll finish before Chris an I, now. Call this man and handcuff him to your engine bay.
Actually, I do have a very similar valve. I thought I had to have something more elaborate but it appears I can just get a "T" silicone fitting. That could be a good way to do it.
Not a LOT of progress, but I did get the headlight motors hooked up and raising/lowering the buckets last night.
One foot in front of the other...and I'll be there in no time. Right?
yep. I am almost at a point to dedicate 1 hour a day to my project. That makes time fly!
I just try to do SOMETHING every day, even if it's 10 minutes.
A little bit a day does help. After a while the incentive get's a little cloudy. Something that I'll try to do is get a buddy over for a couple hours. Amazing how much you can get done in a day with a helper. Doesn't even need to be much of a mechanic. Definitely helps if they have a teener too. Just makes it a little smoother work day. Just have a plan to tackle a particular thing. I don't accomplish much when I go out with no plan. I'll jump from one thing to another & really not accomplish much of anything. So even if you just have 15min. Have a plan of what your going to do.
I am the king of letting things sit. I am a feast or famine guy. Mine will sit for 8 months. I'll work on it hot & heavy for a month. Then it sits again (my v8 conversion is a great example). Although it's been sitting close to 2 years now . I'm a walking contradictin
A question about the BOV: Can I put it in my trunk? Is there an issue with me blasting extra pressure into there? I'm not recirculating at that point, and the cool "wishhh" sound would be in my trunk, but that'd be the easiest/quickest way for me to do it.
you can. You can plumb it out the bottom of the car if you want. it is just wasted air.
Ordered this today for $25 from Amazon. I can shorten it a bit and put it wherever I want. This should be perfect.
I forgot to properly thank you for the headlight motor pieces. You gave me the EXACT 3 parts I was missing. It was actually quite amazing. That's the one thing I've done to the car in a month and a half. One more thing to check off the list!
votion is good for all those turbo plumbing needs also..
Not a problem, glad they where of use, life gets in the way, sometimes the little things can start you rolling in the correct direction and like a small ball in the snow, as it rolls you pickup more snow. Pretty soon your ball will pickup speed and rolling faster and faster down hill.
Wish I could come up and help you, but my schedule is booked out through October. We have been told not to ask for leave until Mid October. As of right now, I am in the middle of a huge network upgrade, and have ~58 hours and 51 minutes to get it done. Sometimes I wonder why I am still in this game! Because I love doing what people say is impossible, and Im a little Okay maybe more than a little bit
Stephen - you said it!
The part I ordered isn't going to cut it, so I'm dropping the hot-side piping off tonight to have a BOV mount welded to it. I'm also having him make me 1" inserts for the radiator tubing and weld the Wide-Band bung in the exhaust so that'll be nice and tidy.
From there I should be able to sort the rest of the tubing and get this project off dead center and moving in the right direction.
Borrowed this one
Theoretically, if I wanted to put a "build party" together for a few days...who would be in? I'm thinking the first or second weekend in September? I'd love to have it running by "09/14"
I'd cover hotel rooms and food for everyone over a weekend. I think I'm close enough that if 2-3 people helped me, I could be driving the thing around, sans interior, after a day of wrenching.
Thanks Todd. That's 1!
Looking for 2-3 more to make the trip. I'd want to make sure we had enough people to finish the task at hand.
I would love to, but the timing could not be worse with selling/buying a new house, moving, changing jobs, etc. If after mid Oct, I can probably swing it.
It was great having Bob (BIGKAT_83) stop by last night. Gave me an excuse to clean the garage a little bit and assess the list of remaining things. I'm a lot closer than I realized.
Cool! Bob is good at refocusing you isn't he? Just do a little every day.
It's just a matter of me attacking one thing at a time. I'll get 1-2 things knocked off the list this weekend. That'll get me a step or two closer.
Here's an update for ya...I'm getting back into this.
I just ordered a new intercooler like this one. I'm going to remove the wall in the back of my trunk and put something like this together. I had an epiphany last night that I can remove a large section of that wall, maintain the ability to put the roof in the trunk, and it'll make routing the pipes a lot easier. At that point, I can add the BOV and water cooling.
About time! Good for you, Doug. Nothing a luggage rack can't over come.
Hopefully I can get Chris (effutuo101) to give me more pics of how he did his intercooler. I'll work on mocking it up this weekend. I don't think I'll have the intercooler by then, but I have a pretty good idea of where it's going and how I'll route the lines to it.
Shoot me an email Doug. I will take some pictures and send them!
Can you take one of the BOV side?
My BOV is a plumbed to be recirculating.
Got it. Thanks a bunch Chris!
Ok...looks like I have my work cut out for me, but I'll do the best I can and see what I can come up with.
No worries. You have my email if you need more. Difficult to photograph.
I'd be MORE than happy to pay your guy to make me up a set of the same pipes he did for you! (If that's even possible)
I will ask!
Alright then. Let's get this show on the road again. We await your arrival, d'Artagnan.
Checking still. He is at Sema, so pretty busy!
I had a thought last night.
I am checking to see if my local guy can weld an output for the BOV to my intercooler. That'd kill 2 birds with one stone.
Something like this.
Or have him weld up some pipe and put a junction so you have some flex and be able to replace it if it goes south. You can vent straight from there into the exhaust or open air.
On second thought, I can just drill out a hole and taps so I can mount it directly. All I'd have to do is make a gasket at that point. If it goes south, I can just mount another one up later.
good call. maintenance/upgrades happen.
I'm not dead...just taking my time getting everything organized to finish this over the winter.
Moved in, demolished goat pens in pole barn, got $$ for new concrete floor, you can move it in there over winter if you want
OK....we have some progress to report.
I talked to the guy that built my motor and I'm shipping the car off to him next week to do the intercooler, radiator, and fuel system for me. Those are the three pieces that have been keeping me from finishing this off, and my skill-set isn't going to get any better on its own. If I get him the car now, I should be able to get it back in early February...which is still plenty of time for me to get it ready for spring. I'll be concentrating on the interior and electronics once I get it back. THAT is something I'll be able to handle on my own once the mechanicals are set.
So Hershey is still my goal...just not the 2014 Hershey. ;-)
I've printed Chris' photos and I'm sending them with the car. Hopefully, we'll have the same air-to-water intercooler setup after all is said and done. One of my goals is to make sure the roof still fits in the back though.
While the car is away, I'm going to focus on the dashboard, bumpers, and roof so those are ready to go too.
Cool! Hope mine goes for Radiator, cv's, and peddle cluster this week.
Looking good Doug. I found the link for the wiring harness, but could not get the link to work. Do you remember the name of the company? Thanks. I am going for Hershey 2016. This year I will bring my truck
Let me look and see. I'll tell you though, the instructions were pretty bad...and incorrect. I needed Dr. Evil's help to make heads or tails of a lot of it.
Just run a search on eBay for "18 wiring harness" and I'll bet you find it there. (Mine was a 21, but I didn't need 5 of them, so 18 would be plenty.)
Thanks Doug. I think I am going to remove the wiring harness from the donor car though.
This one looks pretty similar to mine, and is about 1/2 of what I paid. I don't think it'll matter much, as long as the wires are long enough...which they normally are.
The trick is to take all the wire wraps off, lay is out in the driveway, and go wire-by-wire laying them out to the front or back of the car. These harnesses are normally set up for the engine in front.
Any plans to pull the 914 out and start working on it again this spring, Doug?
Hows it looking Doug?
OK....I'm back at it.
First order of business: Clean up the elbows up front. I need to replace the rubber elbows with something made of stainless. I'd bought 1" copper pipe to use that, but the copper pipe is actually 1-1/16" OD, which WILL NOT fit inside the silicone tubing I'd purchased.
So I need a few 1"OD stainless elbows and connectors to get the front tidied up.
Right now, I don't like this setup AT ALL....I think it's not nearly as refined and sturdy as I'll ultimately want it. Time to make some changes.
Doug, I've been following this but didn't see where you got your coolant cap adapter piece from- that's pretty slick!
It's just kinda lying up there right now. That's absolutely the highest point, so I thought it would work best to have the coolant fill/burp valve up there. Just kinda sitting up there right now while I decide the best way to do it. I may end up with a solid metal tube up there to get the water from one side of the car to the other, then elbow down off of that.
Doug, just FYI I have the same fuel pump as you and it's kinda loud. It's a great pump, so I wouldn't change it, but if you notice the whine you may want to wrap it in some insulation.
Those radiator fillers are on e-bay...
Summit, Jegs, etc.
With fuel running through it it's not as bad, and with the car running, even less noticeable. Made me really appreciate the nearly silent L-Jet fuel pump.
You may want to consider rubber mounts or insulators on the radiator mounting points. Inevitably any flexing going on up there may transfer to the radiator and give problems down the road.
Nice build by the way....
Your radiator looks really hard to shroud. As it sits, all the air will go around it and not through it. Thus you will overheat.
I would remount the rad tilted forward and figure out a different way to secure it. Perhaps vertical bracing to the same mounting studs?
The hoses rising behind the fuel tank form an air trap and you will need to have a bleeder on both hoses.
I love the size of the radiator! I need to find one that size if I do not go with a Boxster setup.
Make sure that no air can get around the radiator at all. I'm no expert but I can tell you that my conversion runs way way too cold; 160°F. Not many of us can say that. My radiator is almost twice your size and completely shrouded and sealed.
I have rubber grommets in the radiator setup, so it's "floating" now. But I DO think I need to change it. That's on the list now that the weather has broken.
I used a vw scirocco all aluminium 2-pass radiator. It fits down there nicely, and should be more than enough to cool the EJ20. Shrouding will be important...for sure.
I admit it I love you radiator. Its small compact, the question is will it cool a 2.5 L?
I forget the unit of measurement for radiators, but this was the same as the one that cooled the V8 that was in the car previously. It's only a little smaller. An all aluminium, double-pass radiator is the way to go....or so I was told by the guys at Summit Racing where I got it. They said it'd be "more than enough" for what I was using it for. It's also larger than the stock WRX radiator.
I hate to do it, but I think I need to let this project go. It's been 2y and I'm no closer to having time to finish it. Ugh.
Unless there's someone that would be willing to drive to Cleveland, pick it up, and finish the mechanicals for me. (I'd happily pay.)
Hey Doug! Nice to hear from you! I know Brad Mayeur in Peoria could finish it. McMark is in Grand Rapids now. Don't let it go man. Hate to see all that work go unrewarded. What's left to do at a high level?
Stephen could finish it if he has the time. The body work is all done and it's painted. It's mainly dealing with the wiring harness, plumbing the turbo and getting the engine fired, finishing the interior. I just can't remember where he left off.
Thanks guys. I've reached out to a few people, and we'll see what I can find. MY hope is that I can send this off on a few-month vacation to someone that can help me get the mechanicals across the finish line.
You might want to hide your welder from Stephen.
This is my first time reading through your thread. This is an amazing build! Now is not the time to get rid of it!
Unless you want to sell it to me
j/k .... sort of.
I think about when you started this project and all that you've bared your soul about with personal matters and such. You've put so much work, imagination, and raw emotion of your own into this build that getting rid of it now may just further the funk you've been through. Finishing this would lift your spirits and give you the reward of driving that would only help you feel more accomplished (not that you're not accomplished already). To state a partial line from one of my favorite 80s movies; "You can't give up now... it's a moral imperative!"
Yoo can doo eet!!
So, Scott came to Cleveland last weekend to take a look at helping me finish this thing off. Holy mother of shit is his car cool! I had no clue what kind of power these Subie engines are capable of. Wow.
So I'm putting together a punch-list of things that need done, and we're going to see what it'd take to get this thing in the works again.
Just giving you all an update. My goal, once again, is to drive it to Hershey next year. Let's see if I can make this one a reality!
Go Doug Go!
Awesome Doug! Glad to hear it. Hershey next year is a good goal. Take your time. Everything I rushed I have re-done.
That's great to hear! I know it's discouraging to table a project like that when you were so close to actually being able to enjoy the fruits of your labor! Look forward to seeing you get this on the ground ! If you can get to Hershey next year maybe you can make something like Okteenerfest in the fall too!
Keep us updated on progress-
Punch list item not on the current build
"Bout time. JK ya, Doug. I know you been drug thru the these past 2 years. I believe that all of us Suby converts wanted to help you. Some of us just live too far away. The experienced eye can see that there is still an awful lot of work to be done but your with an experienced person now so things will move right along. Keep in mind what Chris said. Everything he rushed he's had to redo. Good to see you back at it. Kent
Thanks for the encouraging words guys. Going over the car with Scott, I realized how far I've really come with this thing. And also how far I have to go. Like he said though: "all the right parts are here." So I guess I did something right after all!
Having a proper engineer finish off the important bits is going to be key. The last thing I want is a shoddily built 350hp go-kart!
Good to see you back! We are both in the same place. Need experts to finish/tidy up bits. Keep the faith and you will have a rocket soon!
Hmmmm, Sept 29-30 and maybe that weekend since I will be there anyway.
Getting ready for a big move tomorrow, so I put tires on her and dropped her to the ground for the first time in 3 years!
More pics and info tomorrow after I get her in the sunlight and on a trailer.
I wonder where it is going?
What is behiNd the chevy's cab?
No idea where it is going But can't wait to see it tomorrow. Unfortunately it involves work.
Grey Matter made it safe and sound to its new home for the next few months.
Spent a couple of hours clearing out he loose parts and random other stuff while putting a plan together.
So much better!
Also ,sorting out some of the parts I am likely to use.
Lots of good parts to work with, so much cutting and welding to get them to work together.
Excited to see this come together. Love this car.
Pass that over...
Doug you got a long way with this one. Totally understand where you got stuck. Makes sense to have someone help you wrap it up who has done it before. Check out Andrew's thread for interior ideas. His has a similar general shape/layout.
Help finishing it. It is a very nice car in person, and just needs a little bit of fabrication and systems cleanup to make it drivable for Doug. He has gone from thinking it will always be on jack stands forever. To it will be out on the road running and driving. Scott has set a pretty lofty goal for getting it running and back to Doug.
It is running snow tires so I am not sure what the rush is
Scott Amenson is VERY talented when it comes to fabrication. I saw some of his work at Okteenerfest when he was walking me through some of the build of his Subie-powered 914. Very nice work....so if anyone can get the plumbing and wiring whipped into shape, Scott can.
I can't thank Stephen and Scott enough for coming out last weekend and picking her up from me. Being back in the garage for a day getting everything ready for transport was like walking into a time machine. I hadn't been out there in about 2 years, and I forgot where everything was. What started out with the best intentions of getting everything ready for him, turned into a "shove stuff in a box" competition.
After we loaded it up on the truck, I just told Scott "Do whatever you want. You're not going to offend me at all by re-doing anything I did." to which he replied "Oh, I've got a list alright."
It'll be awesome to watch from here to see how things progress. I plan on heading down there when he's ready for me to work on wiring. Perhaps I can get Dr. Evil to drive out an assist with that again? ;-)
Thanks for the kind comments...pressure it building, better get to work.
First order of business was to install the service cover that arrived today. This thing is really nice. Should have purchased one a long time ago, my car might still have decent pain.
Storage bag is even signed
Now I can get to work. First task is to flip the intake so I can get a feel where things will end up. Snaked all of the wiring out of the way and went to remove the throttle cable. WTF is this Doug Add that to the list.
Some cool stuff under here. What is the coolant line with the AN fittings?
Apparently the manifold is not quite symmetrical on the bottom side and the additional lugs interfere with the turbo inlet. D Didn't take long to have to start cutting.
This looks promising, if only the throttle body fasteners were the same size as the other manifold. Bolts are too big.
Rinse and repeat.
There we go. IC will fit perfectly.
Doug, did you order the alternator relocation parts yet?
I can almost smell burning snow tires.
Great to see this project moving forward. It was a real bummer to see your project get stalled by life but it's best to get the important things taken care of first.
I'd like to help out but I'm a bit too far away with way too little free time it seems anymore. I really appreciated your consultation and help getting going with the prototype 914 brake LED boards and figuring out how to secure the turnsignal boards. I'd like to return the favor.
How about we trade your prototype brake and turnsignal boards for current brake, turnsignal, reverse, front sidemarker (if your car still has them) and front turnsignal boards? This way all the boards will be up to date when your car gets on the road.
Scott: alternator relocation stuff should be on the way. I'll call today. Also, let me know what you need me to order for the throttle. I have no clue what part you were referring to that you were holding.
Spoke: More than happy to swap. Let's let Scott get it running and when I bring it back to Cleveland to finish up, we'all chat about it. Thanks for the offer!
The part in hand is your throttle cable, and it needs replaced.
Glad to see this getting some love. Ill help as able, when able, with whatever.
I am stalled in the engine compartment until the alternator relocation parts arrive so I moved to the front. Had to put it up on the lift to get to the bottom of the tank.
Don't worry Grey...you will be back on your tires in no time.
Almost a clean slate.
Almost cut out the radiator mounts but wanted to sleep on it to make sure my plan makes sense.
Doug, what are the dimensions of the spare you want to put up front?
Looking good Doug!
Hoping it is a space saver as all others will be to big.
How about a small air compressor, tire plug kit, and a AAA card
Did not realize the fender well vests where so huge, I'm surprised we did not bring a cat or two back with us from Doug's
I'll measure the spare when I'm in Cleveland this weekend. It's honestly the least of my worries though. I like Stephen's idea better anyway.
Got your email about the parts-list to order...as always, I'm on it.
The Outfront alternator relocation parts arrived today. Couldn't wait to see how things would work together so I took a few minutes before my soccer game to install it. Unfortunately one of the stock hard cooling line connections was in the way so I am going to have to wait.
Not a big deal, just a little and we will be good to go.
That Alt relocation brakes looks like a very simple clean design. Lets see a picture off the engine. I would like to get the design etched into my head, for future reference.
Looking good...That got there a lot faster than he told me it would. I was expecting a call before he shipped, and he said it might be another week before that. Wow. Parts look fantastic.
I was at outfront last week. I picked up a new oil filler set up that is a little cleaner.
I've got some fancy new parts headed your way Scott.
No actual progress this weekend. Had to winterize the yard and take care of a few honey-do's. Lot's of parts showing up so I took some time to organize the garage. Nothing more frustrating than searching for parts or tools.
Speaking of parts, Doug....if you wanted to go big, now is the time.
I was "helping" Stephen find a snail for his project and found this.
2.0L Subaru Borg Warner EFR 6758 and E85
Now wouldn't that be exciting!
And that is a great snail Very nice broad map
DO IT in my most evil Star wars voice
Great suggestion, but the vf39 should be plenty for me. I know everyone is saying I'll want more HP later, but my target was 250hp and it's looking like I'll be way over that now. Hell, I had a blast in my 2.0 and that was only 100hp.
Besides Scott, your car scared the shit out of me.
I havn't been slacking...promise
Just about done with the radiator mount. All made from flat.
Bottom will be held in place by the pins in rubber grommets. IC heat exchange will be mounted with 4 tabs to the radiator frame.
Fits like a glove. Still need to make end pieces for the bottom to weld to the chassis and stiffen everything up.
The vertical angle pieces are there temporarily to hold the top and bottom pieces in place as I take it in and out for fitment.
Tight gaps will make it easy to put down pretty welds.
Looking good Scott. I knew you'd have a better way to do the radiator.
It's a good idea to tape some protective cardboard to cover the fins during construction.
Why do things the easy way when I can spend countless hours on details no one will ever notice.
Made the feet for the lower part of the rad mount.
Also made the mounts for the IC heat exchange.
I probably could have welded it all in place today but I did not remove the lower grommets while welding and ruined them. I though that I had two more but only had one.
Looking good Scott!
I'm a little pissed that I see orange paint. I'd paid to have the entire tub sand-blasted, but I guess they forgot part of the front trunk. Guess I missed that when I went to inspect it before they put the primer on.
Ah! Gotcha. That makes perfect sense. Yeah, the rubbery stuff never comes off with media blasting of any kind.
Phase 1, mount the radiators is complete!
While doing the final fitting I did not like the way the holes lined up for the IC heat exchanger so I removed the bottom tabs and started over.
Much better now. No slotted holes allowed.
Welded in place. Getting to the bottom piece was the toughest TIG welding I have had to do. Good practice for when I put a cage in my car. Definitely going to need another tig torch with current control.
IC heat exchanger in place.
And the radiator just drops in.
Now on to running the hose to the radiator.
I like, now to redo my mounts
Looking awesome. That sure beats the hell out of the janky-ass mount I made up...consisting of one piece of 1" square tube.
Quick question/comment for Scott:
Are you going to move where the radiator hose goes through the longs, or at least how they get routed there? I'm certain I had about 10' too much hose in that operation, and what I'd originally set up would have been a bitch to get bubbles out of the line.
Just curious if you found a better way.
Hose routing through the passenger compartment proof of concept. Still need to clean up the holes and install edge treatment...and weld the access hole closed.
No hint of kinking like I had initially with my setup. The silicone hose is really nice to work with.
Wouldn't it be better to make a bolt on cover? How would you replace that line?
Feel free to pull any/all of the Dynamat out of there. I'm actually thinking of taking it all out and just spraying the interior with Rhinoliner.
Looking good Scott. I'll reply to your email tonight when I have some time to sit down and go through everything.
I had a chance to pop into the garage tonight. I reshaped the holes a bit and installed the edge treatment. I ran the full length hose from the rear to make sure I can fish it through without using the access hole.
Couldn't stop there so I ran it to the radiator.
Just to be clear, I had nothing do do with the angry beaver removal of the channel over the steering rack hump and have not decided what to do with it yet
Someone needs to use a nice set of beading tools that someone else left behind
Please don't take offense at this, but I have used silicon coolant hoses on a car with a racecar with a sealed and pressurized coolant system and noticed that the water level decreased over time (no evidence of head gasket failure when running or after disassembly). I looked it up then and found that silicon hoses allow some diffusion of water so you might want to be careful of exactly where you put them in case they need to be removed. I just worry that over time you'll leak water into the cabin, etc. Probably not much and I'm just a little over-conservative, but I just wanted to say something.
Duplicated the cabin routing to the driver's side and then added the twist for the passenger side. To clean up the front trunk area I am running the cooling line across the car under the fuel tank. Have plans tonight so no time to pull the test hose and add install edge treatments. Will hold it in place with a couple p-clamps
One thing I noticed while I was sitting in the fuel tank area, one of the posts for the steering rack clamp is missing!?
Doug, do you have the piece that broke off so that I can weld it back in?
I have quite a bit of time off during this time of year so I managed to get the cooling system pretty much finished. Still need to make the mount for the fans and ducting for the radiator but the plumbing is solid.
I hate MIG welding for many reasons but the fumes are the primary one so I picked up a Lincoln fume extractor. It turns on automatically and does a great job controlling the weld fumes.
After removing the elbow from the heater system the remaining tube was not supported very well so I welded it to the inner long and applied edge treatment.
I have a moving blanket in the car to lay on while I am working and the dogs decided that it would be a great place to hang out on while I was at the welding bench.
These two pieces take the place of a dozen random connectors that Doug had in the car when it arrived. Stephen's tube beader applied the finishing touches.
Simple but elegant solution.
I really enjoy making parts that will only work in one place on any car.
I welded up the access ports in the longs.
Unfortunately I welded this one twice. I got a bit ahead of myself and welded it the first time before securing the inner tube and applying the edge treatment so I had to cut it back open and then weld back closed.
I am off until Tuesday so i should get to make some good progress on the IC install.
I had a super productive day today. The plan was rock solid in my head, I had all of the material and I didn't mess up any parts!
Step one of using an off the shelf part...cut it up.
I didn't take any pictures but I disassembled and sandblasted the throttle body. I then modified it so that the v-band half would fit on the inlet and TIG welded it on. Hours of fussing to get everything straight and level and...vuala.
Had some extra time before dinner so I started on the IC to turbo plumbing. Tubes are exactly where I want them to be. Unfortunately it is resting on the dipstick tube, alternator and intake manifold.
The engine is going to need to come out to get this sorted. It will also make the IC mount easier to mock up. I am going to take some time to make a roller kart that I can mount on the engine cradle because I may have another project lined up that I can use it on.
Happy New Year,
That's looking bad-ass Scott. You're a true master.
Maybe a rubber isolation coupling between the IC & TB
How much boost are you planning to run?
As promised...new engine cart. In total it took 14 component not including casters and fasteners.
Square tubing recycled from my nieghbors fence and castors from the cart that my C10 came on.
Threaded rod, bar stock and my bender. I coated the pads in liquid rubber to minimize scratching.
I welded bushings into the square tube for each of the adjustable pads.
Engine came out so easily that I forgot to take pictures! I removed the wheels and lowered the car until the drivetrain was on the cart, adjusted the pads and then removed the four mounts and lifted the body above the engine.
Now I can finish the IC install.
Also made a new mount for the air tools.
That's a bad-ass cart you've got there sir!
The IC install looks perfect. There's a lot going on in that little space, but you've made the most of it for sure. Definitely way better than anything I would have hobbled together.
I need to make some time to get down there to help out soon. Let's connect and see what we can come up with.
So much easier to work on the engine on the cart. Lead to a super productive day yesterday.
I made more room of the IC tube to the turbo by modifying the dip stick, removing some unneeded material from the intake manifold and remade the first tube out of the IC. It now clears the coolant elbow for removal and does not touch anything on the way under the manifold!!
I used CAD (cardboard aided design) to figure out the parts for the IC mount.
Many hours later.
Nobody will ever see this when the engine is in the car so I have to show off some details.
So many angles.
Enough internets, time to get back in the garage and work on the IC plumbing.
No real progress to show from Sunday. Wife wanted to try out the Sunday brunch special, Chicken and Waffles, at one of the local microbrewerys killing half of the day. The afternoon was spent cleaning up the shop from Saturday and considering how to run the IC plumbing under the manifold with the absolute minimum bends.
I did take my normal tour of some of the great build threads on the forum to see if there were any new ideas I could steal and ran into Bob's old blue SVX powered car. He used a really nice coolant expansion tank but I can not figure out what it came from. Any ideas?
It's from a Volvo. 700/900 series.
That's a good one if you have the room horizontally. No weird mounting tabs, etc.
Today was the day to finally route the IC feed under the intake manifold.
After a few hours fitting and tweaking it was time to tack! The green tape is some heat resistant tape that does not leave a residue even after it gets a bit melty. It will eventually char but so much better than anything I have used previously.
The shape does not make sense until...
...it is in place where it fits perfectly.
I did not have a chance to finish the last section to the turbo or shape the IC entry so that will have to wait until next time.
I've had a drastic change in my personal circumstances that is forcing me to sell this car. I've tried 10 different ways to hang on to it, but it's not going to happen.
I'm completely gutted right now.
The car is listed here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=305265
Please email me directly with any questions.
Well, the car officially has a new home. Sad to see it go, but happy that the project will get finished.
I'll change the name of the thread once the new owner tells me how he wants it named. Scott is still going to be working on the car for a few more months, so you'll see him chiming in here too.
I can't wait to watch the progress as it unfolds.
Life goes on... you probably feel the weight gone already. Knowing it went to a good home has got to be satisfying on some level - hell, you'll probably even get to drive it once!
we'll keep this thread going right here. Just spent the weekend driving to Ohio and back (from the Boston area) to close the deal. The car is staying at Scott's to finish up over the next 4-5 months.
The project is in pieces right now, but everything looks amazing. 90% done and 90% left to go. Stay tuned.
There will be a few changes in direction from Doug's vision, but really nothing major.
Specifically, I'm going back to stock for the dash. So, now I need the whole dash assembly, including the metal frame, top pad, knee pad, vents, etc. Let me know what you've got.
I am on the cusp of finally putting some proper rubber under the PorSTI so I took the opportunity to work on the suspension on Grey for a bit to get a feel of how much space is available under the flares.
First step was to get the car down to ride height.
I pulled the springs in the rear and found that they did not sit in the spring cups very well. The OD is ~5mm larger than what the upper cups want to hold.
The lower spring perch works but the spring is pretty loose. Also, there was an odd spacer under it sitting on the clip that locks in the groove on the shock body.
Anyone have any thoughts?
In the front I needed to clock the torsion bars by one spline. The Driver side did not want to come out of the control arm. I got it out and found why it was being difficult. The front of the control arm was open. Looks like the end cap was pushed out at some point.
Looks like it could just be a welch plug. Is this part available?
Working off the lift with no rear springs makes it very easy to play with ride height. I think it looks pretty good right there.
Driver side is rubbing on the inside and the passenger is rubbing on the fender lip but they will fit. Will trim the fender lip to give some additional room and will probably need to adjust the spacer's once it is aligned.
Yes the front plug is available.
Stoddard has them
Part number 900.040.008.01
Did you string Gray to see if the tow is out of wack, I think it is. But I would open up the lip like the factory did.
That spring is not right for the hat, the spring sits inside of the stock hat. Heck, I would convert it over to a set of 2.25 or 2.5 inch springs, with different hats and if it was me different collars though if you don't need to corner balance, then the stock system does work just fine. Makes me wonder if someone did not cut a stock spring, as they do wind tighter at the top to fit the stock hat. They where not installed upside down?
i'll bring another set of hats with me so you can compare them to the ones on gray, and an extra set of old eyes, maybe we can figure these out.
With Mark's measurement and an on site consultation with Stephen, the conclusion is that the spring OD is too large...very strange.
I just got mine from a member here. There was at least one more world member that offered me a set for $80. Paragon also sells the springs.
I claim first dibs on Scott's soon-to-be extra springs.
Anything new going on here?
As a matter of fact.. yes, there is.
Scott will be re-starting the build in the near future. Stay tuned.
I picked up a little something for the project 2 weeks ago
TIAL BOV arrived. I put it together to check fitment...will be perfect.
Just a bit of massaging on the weld flange to match the profile on the IC.
This car is not driving yet ?
The AFCO Scirocco radiator fan shroud showed up. Really nice piece but something is not right?!
After much measuring and internet searching it turns out that it is not the standard Scirocco rad but some universal radiator for Volkswagen Golf, GTI, Rabbit, Scirocco.
Unfortunately there is not a nice fan shroud for this rad...I guess that I will have to widen this one:welder:
That's a bummer Scott.
On the bright side, you get to play with your new toy (post #1001).
Business travel is over for a while so it it time to get serious about Grey.
Got the new Tig welder dialed in so it was time to finish the IC plumbing.
The best execution looks simple...it wasn't. Many fine adjustments to get the gaps tight enough to Tig weld. Final fitting was done on the belt sander.
Lots of work to open up the outlet of the IC, should flow cleanly.
Still need to weld the seams on the IC and then fit the Tial BOV.
Also started modifying the radiator fan. Could have made more progress but the new brake didn't show up on Friday.
So much more rewarding than rust repair on the PorSti!
What day is it...new tool day!!!
No more to bend sheet metal.
I love new tool day!
Finished welding the IC joints and installed the BOV.
Not quite #weldporn quality beads but nice and tidy. I did get myself in a bit of trouble on the inside of the sweeper coming out of the IC. My torch would not fit for proper arc position but I tried to make it work and left a blob that took a ton of work to smooth out. Lesson learned....always take the time to configure the torch to fit.
Time to fix the radiator shroud.
A little measuring, remeasuring and then again. I also had had to reshape the mounting flanges and move the mounting holes because the bosses on the radiator were shorter and in a different location.
I do have more clamps, this was all that was necessary to keep everything aligned.
Dialed in. That was some really, really satisfying torch time.
The holes still line up!
Still need to trim the mounting flanges and then back in the car.
Be careful , that shroud is going to murder your high speed airflow....fan is blocking airflow over about 25 , and not needed , your shroud is reducing the remaining cooling area , rendering your radiator less efficent ...
If your up for the challenge, you could build flaps on the other side of the rad shroud. In the above picture it would be the left side, for the flaps. So when air pressure became to great they will open up, and then close once stoped or air pressure is not great enough to over come either gravity or cavity pressure in the trunk or exhaust duct area.
This presumes that the air pressure will be greater outside the rad than inside the trunk due to speed.
More than likely over kill
Flaps are likely overkill. Easy to add later if necessary.
Finished the modifications to the shroud by removing the extra mounting ear material.
A few things came in the mail this week.
The dash looks really good. A few scuffs here and there but really nice shape.
Unfortunalty it is missing all of the bulb holders. Hopefully the ones from my old cluster fit.
We will need an electronic speedo from a 911 to work with the suby trans. speed sensor.
Stainless fuel lines with AN fittings arrived from CFR. He even custom bent the engine side!
I went through the IC pluming to make sure that it was good to go and didn't like the transition to the outlet V-band flange so I got out the die grinder and ported it a bit. The carbide burr always gets clogged when cutting aluminum so in desperation I tried AL tap magic and it made a world of difference. A few drops every once in a while and the burr stays clean!!
Had some time left so I modified the IC water header tank. I didn't want to run a water exchange type radiator cap so I found weld fittings for a mustang radiator cap. Sliced off the old cap on the band saw and then made a sketchy fixture to cut the hole for the new fitting.
My best AL welds to date. Really getting dialed in with the new welder. Also helped that I changed my tungsten type and got a proper tungsten grinder.
The mustang cap had a huge flange stuck out over the sides of the tank so I cut it off. Much better.
Looks very nice, but really you had to add a Mustang part onto this car , better include instructions on how to do a burn out
Thanks! That's really not a bad price either all considering.
Mounted the fuel pressure regulator and Boost controller and as always, it got a bit out of hand finding an ideal location.
I really wanted to put it behind the the intake manifold so that I could connect directly to the "T" between the fuel rails. Problem is there is not a while lot of room between the intake manifold and the charge pipe to the turbo. After a whole lot of measuring and pondering I decided that might just work...step 1, modify the fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket. Can't get 0.5mm shorter without a whole bunch of stuff interfering with each other.
I always wanted to use press in threaded inserts so I tried to reuse the ones from the boost controller. Worked perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to buy a bunch. Who knows what they are called?
One issue is that the top of the manifold was ground down so there is not a flat surface to bolt to.
This was really bothering me so $40 on ebay later and a new manifold is on the way. The one I found even has the throttle body and throttle cable bracket! The throttle cable brake alone made it worth it so that I don't have to design/make one!
"I always wanted to use press in threaded inserts so I tried to reuse the ones from the boost controller. Worked perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to buy a bunch. Who knows what they are called?"
Ever since plumbing the 3 port boost controller for the first time on the PorSTI it has always bothered me why a connection was necessary back to the intake between the air filter (MAF) and turbo. Having to now add the connection for Grey I decided to find out. It is not, definitely not for a setup w/o MAF. The port is just a vent to release the pressure from the waste-gate actuator.
I guess theoretically in a MAF system venting the volume of air already accounted for by the MAF back into the system post MAF increases accuracy but it seems like a remarkably insignificant volume of air.
The best type of plumbing is the type that is not necessary. Sintered bronze mufflers on order!
Speaking of MAF-less...I am confirming that we need to add a temp sensor into the Intake manifold.
You do need an IAT for speed density. Maybe need is a little strong since technical the IAT is most strongly governed by your IC efficiency curve and compressor map, so you could kind of build the correction into the load table, but it's certainly nice to have for tuning simplicity since you can just make an ideal gas correction.
Why not use the combined Bosch MAP/MAT sensor?It's a pretty slick package and requires only 1 hole in the manifold?
Stephen stopped by on Friday and delivered the new dash pieces so I pulled the existing one, installed the stock one and fit the 911 style dash top.
I fit them together off the car to check for issues. Good thing that I did because the center mounting hole is shifted to use another hole that needed to be enlarged.
Back to stock.
OK not really.
Then I did this....check the PorSTI build for the background.
Not only does it look better, it eliminates the need to slot the middle mounting holes when rotating the upper part of the intake.
Tom, I am thinking about a proposal. I'll send an email...
Whatcha got in mind, Scott?
Nice progress I like it.
Time for a much overdue update. Have been getting a ton of time in the garage but quite busy ouside as well so have not made time to organze pictures.
Here we go....
I talked Tom into going with the JDM manifold and man am I happy I did. The hours to smooth and intigrate it were not planned but well worth it.
First off was to add a second lug for the coolant tank.
After many hours of cutting/grinding/welding...
This lug stayed and made a perfect place to mount for the fuel line connections to the chassis lines.
The aftermarket silicon turbo intake had way too many extra connections so I decided to make my own. Unfortunately it was not quite a straight shot to the turbo.
Still need to make a tab and add a lug to the intake to support it.
Also worked on the chassis.
Swapped out the oversized spings for the springs I pulled from Porsti when I installed the coil overs. Also threw on the tie downs.
Was going to install the windshield while I had extra hands around the garage but managed to break 2 of the trim clips. Those things are a bugger to install.
Removed the extra stuff coming trough the firewall. Will cut out the shift rod support also. Then everything will be filled and properly placed holes added. Removed the wiley brake and clutch lines. New brake line made.
Started mounting the coolant tanks. Battery tray removed and tiny battery mounted in the trunk.
My parents were in down last week and my Father knocked out a ton of work on my much neglected C10. Starting to look like a truck again.
Sweet! Looking good!
Scott, you are a true artist when it comes to getting all that plumbing to fit. Looks awesome.
Few "minor" tasks checked off the list.
Step one of mounting the air intake...add a threaded lug.
Step 2, make a tab paying careful attention to leave 1 thickness of cardboard around the tube.
Weld, no touching except the tab and turbo coupler!!
Oh, ya...along the way I added a connection for the crank air oil separator.
The position of the lower bung on the coolant tank was not in the best place so I moved it (re-purposed on the air intake). AN all the things!
Almost done with the engine fab, just need to at the IAT threaded bung just in front of the throttle body.
I had anxiety every time I looked at the mess of holes in the firewall, so I got rid of them.
Now I can sleep at night. I can't wait to put fresh holes in the proper place.
Looking good. Can't wait to hear this thing run finally.
Yesterday was the last day in the office until after the new year so I thought that I would start the long vacation with some inspiration by test fitting the drive-train.
Fits great! Only had to remove the air filter and oil filler neck. The oil filler neck will be modified to avoid this...and because it is ugly in the stock position.
Time to pull it back out.
So excited for you! Looks great!
Looking good. Great fabrication work. This is going to be one hot car.
Great to see Doug's excellent work continued in similar fashion.
Doug's a great guy and helped me engineer the mounting of the first LEDs I built. I'd like to reciprocate by donating whatever LED boards are desired. Brakes; front and rear turnsignals, reverse boards, flasher. Whatever. Let me know when the time comes to install the boards and I'll send them to you.
Wire was on sale so I bought some...and by some I mean 100ft of every color in 3 different sizes (TXL/GXL for the nerds)
That should cover any additions/corrections that I need to do.
With the stock dash going back in, using stock switches, relays, fuses box for basic function with a dedicated fuse/relay box for the drivetrain makes a lot of sense. Unfortunately we do not have a stock harness for the car. Anyone part out a car want to sell a harness. Does not have to be 100% perfect (90% would be nice) just looking for a solid base to work back to a mostly stock harness.
New tool day!
Well, not exactly. It has spent more time on "jack stand" than most 914's I picked it up from a neighbor and tore it completely down and then converted the CVT speed adjustment to 3 phase VFD control.
It was 20 deg in the garage and even if I turned on the heater the tools would be freezen so I finished the lathe in the nice warm basement. Still getting it set up but it is making chips and the first part is in the chuck...replacement for the missing steering shaft lug.
Had a very unproductive weekend in the garage. I intended to get the steering shaft clamp fixed but when I went to finish the new part, the belt on the lathe started slipping. I had a replacement drive belt on hand but still slipped. Apparently my custom mount did not allow the motor to move enough to tighten the belt properly.
Got it working again and then ruined the carbide insert for my cutting tool
I needed to accomplish something so I continued the stockification.
Pulled the custom wiring harness and steering column.
Installed the replacement steering column.
Stock harness should be here this week.
Tom asked me to add updates as I did work on his gauges for him. We have a few items up our sleeve and this car will have a full array of needles to keep your eyes off of so you can
First item was a new speedo for the car. Subaru uses an electric speed sensor in their MT5's so this car needed a speedo that was electric drive. So here you go, proper VDO 930.641.508.00 And well like most older VDO speedo's Anton thought it was a great idea to lube the gear shaft with a bit of grease. The grease happens to break down the material the gear was built out of. This is the worse one I have seen in my years of doing these.
http://www.odometergears.com to the rescue, meet these guys at Hersey, great group of guys, and I knew at some point I would need at least one of their gears.
Since I did not know the miles on Grey, I asked Tom how he wanted to handle the conversion. He said zero it out, it is a for the most part a brand new car.
Next up get the new gear back in and get this thing assembled.
First up, I polished up the shafts, then added a touch of dry graphite bearing treatment to the shaft. Then repolished the shaft to remove excess per directions. Spins smooth now.
Overkill Oh heck yeah it is.
Next up add all the gears and e-clips
Test everything and it works And because of the high definition pictures I see a piece of the old gear in the worm drive on motor, that has been removed.
And it is now together again.
That is all I can do for now. All the needles will be painted at the same time, so they will all match. So I'll bag this one up and move onto the next one.
When I reassemble I will re-dust all the surfaces to get all the last bits out and off the assembly and the faces.
Looks good, Steve.
Fun with wires!
The harness from Mike looks decent. I have all of the tape off of the harness so that I can inspect and repair any issues. There are a few spliced wires here and there and one that had a few too many electrons moving through it at some point that will need to be replaced. Still need to cut off the protective tubing to check the rest of the wires. Then everything will get wrapped again prior to installation.
The harness is missing the steering column connectors.
I have the harness section from Porsti that I can work into the harness but I need to make sure that the connector pin definition is the same between the '71 and '73 columns. Are the columns interchangeable between the years? The schematics look a bit different and not all of the wires in the '73 harness are present in the '71.
Grey started life as a '75.
I continued plugging away on the harness in the evenings and hit it hard on Saturday. Got it completely unwrapped and cleaned and started fixing some minor nicks/cuts. Noticed some odd terminations of the main power supply wires from the outset but figured that I could swap them out when I reinstalled the steering column connectors.
I pulled apart the old porsti harness to harvest the steering column connectors. I planned to take the wires as complete as possible to minimize splices. After much studying the wire diagrams between the '71(actually probably a 70) and '73...there are just too many differences to cleanly/efficiently adapt it to work with the '73 column. Add in the two burned circuits and odly spliced power circuits (which probably resulted in the meltage) and I pulled the plug on this harness. Time of death Saturday, February 10th, 4:45pm.
A quick email to Bruce and what should be a really clean, complete harness from a '74 will be arriving soon. Bruce to the rescue again.
Time to make some progress. I convinced Tom to let me fix the clutch MC install and nearby angry beaver access port.
MC mount will be replaced with rnellums part.
Not quite sure what this hole was for but the beaver managed to cut through to the area below the fuel tank making it a multi dimensional fix. First step, cut back to clean margins. Actually second step, first step was to disassemble everything.
First patch made...only took 3 attempts to get it right.
View from below the fuel tank.
The other piece will be much easier to make, then It has been too long since I picked up the torch.
Just about finished up the clutch area.
Started with a little TAD to make the patch panel.
With gaps like this it will be a pitty to waste them on the MIG...unfortunately it is a bit tight in there to tig overhead, so mig it is.
After a few adjustments to the body to get the plate to sit flat and a whole bunch of fitting, marking and cutting to get the proper size holes in the proper place.
The flash really highlighted the welds, going to have to get back in there for a bit more grinding to get them flush.
Third time's a charm!
'74 harness is pretty much unwrapped and looks pretty good. Few things to fix, remove all traces of the seat belt logic relay and then add in the wires for the new stuff and we will be substantially closer to the first start.
Feels so good to have it done right.
A little bummed that the paint dried so light. I found another rattle can color that will hopefully be closer.
Finally pulled the trigger on a battery location.
Knocked out some more CAD work.
And some more hours on the harness. It is amazing how much dirt can get stuck in a bundle of wires. Sucks to clean it but gives me an opportunity to find any hiding nicks/cracks.
I always thought that the hose running to the radiator looked a bit sloppy. Needing to tuck the spare tire as far to the passenger side as possible to make room for the brake/clutch fluid reservoir gave me an excuse to tidy it up a bit.
Replaced the hose with some more AL tube. This is the return, forgot to take a picture of the top tube.
While running the final bit of plumbing through the center tunnel I was disgusted enough of the previous removal of the top to convince Tom to source a new center tunnel.
He found a really nice donor. First step of prep was to remove the unnecessary tubes.
Much better. The throttle tube will be moved to the driver side for cleaner routing of the throttle cable to the reveres intake. It also leaves the center of the tunnel open in case the 1" coolant tubes are not large enough. I will be modifying porsti to run the coolant tubes down the center tunnel and if it works, Marks EG will be run this way also. Plenty of room now!
Center tunnel was prepped really well, only had to remove the firewall flange.
Old tunnel almost removed.
Had to stop to get to the bar for once a year amazing corned beef.
Center tunnel lines sound good. Is there any issue having the coolent lines share space with the fuel lines.
My center tunnel was trashed and eaten up on the sides almost to the top. I sourced some 2x4" 14 ga tubing that fit right in and welded up fine to the new floor pans. I'll run the coolant lines down the center and top that tube with another one for my brake, fuel lines, and cables. Probably some wiring too plus my shifter. I'm working on a different type of heater setup to eliminate more water running through the middle plus if I bet a leak, the center tunnel is isolated from the rest of the car and won't flood anything - it'll just run out and it eliminates the possibility of hitting coolant lines run under the car. I've never really liked that solution...
I would like to take this time to make a public service announcement.
If you are thinking about making random holes in your car; for the sake of your future self, kids, future owner or humanity in general....please don't. Take the time and/or spend the money to do it right. The owner of this car before Doug is officially on my shit list.
And say off my grass
I was a bit optimistic that yesterday's progress was closer to the finish than the start, it was not. The rear part of the tunnel where it is reinforced for the seat belt anchor is spot welded and seam welded to the floor and had to be ground out. Getting the rear flange out from under the strengthening panel was also quite a joy. I shortened the flange on the replacement part so that it can slide under.
On a happy note, the replacement center tunnel is almost ready to weld in!
There was a repair at the passenger front of the replacement panel is a bit proud to the bottom of rest of the weld flange and keeping that side from sitting flat. A bit of cutting and it sits flat, now I just need to weld it back together.
Several days of fun compressed into one post.
This is the repaired area that needed adjustment. Didn't get a post repair picture.
I couldn't help myself, had to wire brush and paint the floor under the center tunnel. Just used weld through primer.
Holes for the IC heat exchanger. I am pretty sure I would not have been able to drill these holes with the center tunnel in place.
Center tunnel is painted with weld through primer on the underside and another poor attempt at matching the grey body color on the outside. Was warm enough to bake it in the sun today!
The calm before the storm.
After much mig welding. It is amazing how much smoke a little bit of burning bed liner gives off.
Center rib drops perfectly back in place.
Gap's were so good that I decided to use the TIG.
Partially TIG'd. Decided to call it Beer'thirty after sticking the tungsten for the third time. What an awkward welding position.
Looks so much better. Much welding and a bit of painting and this task will be complete.
Looks amazing Scott.
That is one wicked repair!
Nice progress Scott.
Sorry I couldn't help you with the replacement piece. Mine was toast. Car looks much healthier with the metal back in place.
With the center console in place and the throttle cable tube relocated to the driver side I was able to mock up the throttle cable.
Bad picture, you can sort of see the red wire in place of the throttle cable.
The length from the tip of the throttle tube to the stock Suby cable mount is 140cm.
Throttle tube is stock length.
Manifold side is all stock Suby.
Tom, is this enough info to specify the cable to 914 Rubber?
Thanks, Scott. That should do it.
How do you eat an elephant?
With a proper three chamber Tilton fluid reservoir. But you are correct one piece at a time.
I was busy cleaning hubs tonight, one piece at a time
Had they day off and took the opportunity to finish the welding on the tunnel replacement.
Bad things happen when you try to push through dirty tungsten. It is amazing how a little contamination pop can ruin the arc. Proper thing to do is to stop and resharpen. this is what happens when you don't. Arc gets wide, takes more amps to melt the filler, more contamination on the tungsten, then blop...
Took a bid of grinding but pretty happy with the recovery.
Welding finished. This thing is stiff.
Tomorrow the squirt gun welds get ground.
And Done. Now you can cover it with carpet.
Also fixed the missing steering rack clamp stud.
Yet another repair that will never be noticed.
Time to get back to some fun stuff.
Moving on to final assembly.
Good place to start is the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. After pressing out the studs I realized that the flat for the stud head is too small for the bolt.
I thought about trying to grind it flat but it would never be really flat and if someday down the line it needed to be replaced it could not be replaced w/o modification. So I machined some step washers.
Check that off the list.
I've been watching from the sidelines for several months now, shedding the occasional tear for how awesome this build is, and that it's in such good hands. This is truly going to be the baddest-ass 914 on the road.
I talked to Tom last night, and got him some of the info on the map in the ECU.
Scott: If you download the Hydra software, you'll be able to pull the map off of it. I uploaded the custom map to the ECU already. Here are some specifics about it.
I told the guy that wrote the map for me the engine specs, turbo specs, and that I was using an air-to-water intercooler. The also knew that it was only driving two wheels. As he told me, the map that he wrote was "close" but would need refinement to operate at peak performance. Once I got it running, he was going to VPN into the computer attached to it, and then make the final adjustments. I forget the guy I talked to, that wrote the map, but the company was Element Tuning. (I don't have access to the email account that I'd conversed with him through, or I'd let you know.)
The laptop that Tom has, has the installation file for the software on it. He should be able to get that to you. I have no clue where to download it anymore. (a quick Google search wasn't much help either.) I DO believe I'd emailed you the pin-out for the ECU a long time ago. I can dig that up again if you need it.
Hope that helps guys. I can't wait to see this thing on the road!
Update: Found the link to download the software: http://nemesisems.com/software/
I have to think that Scott helped to save this build. While Doug did a lot of heavy lifting, there are still a ton of details that could have been a make it or break it result. I hate it when projects get pushed in a corner.
You are right about that, Mark.
If Scott hadn't agreed to help, I wouldn't have been able to do the deal.
Fun with sheetmetal. The last major bit of fabrication on the project is to make the shroud for the radiator intake. I had mentally budgeted a day in the garage to get it done...ya, that didn't quite work out. When I made the Radiator mount I had a general idea of what I wanted to do. When it came down to actually doing it I didn't like my first idea. After several cardboard templates and much pondering I ended up reworking the radiator mount a bit to add mounting flanges. More CAD and then 2 tries per side in aluminum I think that it is almost something I am happy with.
The tops of the side pieces will be bent in to make a flange to mount the top piece to. The top piece will need to be bent to sit flat on the front lip. May have to get out the bead roller and try out the tipping dies. I am sure this will only take a few ruined pieces to get right! The shape over the radiator is not final.
The clevis for the clutch MC arrived and is a really nice piece. Unfortunately the pin is larger than the bushings in the pivot. The slot is also quite a bit wider than the pivot. I am guessing that most people just pop out the bushing and run it. Effective but not something that I could do and sleep at night. I'll enlarge the hole and make a pair of step bushings.
I dug into the clutch linkage tonight. I was pleasantly surprised that the shaft came out without removing the entire pedal assembly
I was a bit harsh on the bushing in my last post. When installed it is just undersized. Once out is is right at 8mm. Pin in the clevis is 7.90mm. A shave with a 8mm reamer when installed and it would be perfect. The side to side gap is definitely excessive so I will still make a pair of step bushings.
Those cuts for the radiator sheet metal look really clean and smooth..
What are you using to make the cuts, and what guage is the metal?
I'm asking because I have to to the same thing for my project -
I'm assuming that's aluminum?
The Porsti Power Tour thrash is over, time to get back to Grey. I spent a good part of the weekend and the 4th cleaning and organizing the garage back to a workable state. Now Grey is back on the operating table.
Pushing it around reminded me how much rubbing is happening. Driver side is rubbing on the inside, passenger on the outside. Need to get a base alignment done to see if they will fit perfectly in the limited space or if some trimming and precision spacing will be necessary.
Just wow! Keep up the good work!
I am still waiting on Dyno. Went a different way, so now I have to source some mirrors.
Then seat belts and touch up on paint.
Great weekend of progress on Grey. Finished shaping the radiator shroud and got the placement set.
Also finished the front radiator tubes. Added the fittings for a heater core, finalized the length and finished the beads.
It has been hot as balls here lately so I have been working on the harness in the basement when I need a cooling cycle.
Many thanks to Kent for the design. Not quite as nice as his but definitely more than adequate.
Still need to grind the welds.
More pieces in for the final time. After much deliberation I decided to run the brake fluid reservoir hoses through the original holes in the steering rack hump and through the fuel pump opening. Only took two tries to get the block off plate the way I wanted it.
Scott What hose are you using for the brake lines? looks to be a push lock product of some sorts.
The new owner can now only race this car.
V V V
I had a quick trip to Mexico for work after returning from Maine and brought back a 9 day case of Mantazuma's revenge. What a shitty situation and not very conducive to progress in the garage.
I did have a nice productive long weekend around in the garage. Not a lot of photogenic progress but I did get one fun thing finished. I decided to modify the clutch pivot to better work with the hydraulic MC. The old hole was slightly oblong and was pretty close to the size of the new pin so making a bushing was going to be challanging. I also wanted to gain a few more threads of engagement on the input rod. To accomplish this I welded some more material around the hole and then used a rotabroach cutter to open it up to 1/2".
Bushing material arrives tomorrow. More fun with the lathe.
No progress last weekend because my wife and I had our annual trip to NY Finger Lakes wine region to restock the racks. 4.5 cases this trip should get us by until the snow starts flying. If you have not visited the area, definitely check it out. The reds do not hold up to California/European wines but some of the Dry whites are exceptional. Watkins Glen is also in the area. There was an SVRA event going on while we were there.
Good progress this weekend. Stephen stopped by and it was great to catch up.
Finished the front end of the center tunnel. I missed putting in the radiator bleed return line hole while I had the center tunnel out. Tool a while to figure out how to get a drill in to make the hole. Could not get to it from the pedal area but a step bit in the pneumatic 90 deg drill did the trick. Cleaned up all of the exposed metal, a bit of paint and the proper sized grommets and we are ready to install the hoses. Still need a fuel line grommet. Could not find one in any of the bins.
On to the auxiliary fuse/relay box. This is a very convenient place to put it but I underestimated how not flat this area was. After much reshaping is almost fits. I lost my dolly holder so there is still some shaping to go.
On with the clutch pivot. Turning wheels on the lathe is like a time warp. It is amazing how time flies while making chips. Unfortunately I am not the greatest machinist so I make a lot of chips. Eventually got one bushing pretty much the way it needed to be...although it will be remade.
Hydraulic clutch master cylinder achieved.
It is so smooth I had to take a video. Posted it on instagram
Set up the brake pedal also just to make sure that nothing was messedd up from the clutch bracket.
My new tool finally arrive!
Only took about 2 hours to assemble. Have not powered it up and made it to anything useful yet because that will likely be a rabbit hole of tinkering. Will wait unit I have something useful to make.
For the less tool educated - me - what is it?
I know you already know this but...
You are going to LOVE your plasma table!
No turning back now. After much checking, rechecking, measuring, drilling I finally bit the bullet and painted the front trunk. I couldn't stand the huge stain from a brake fluid leak prior to me getting the car so I got rid of it and painted the entire floor too. Amazing how much etching occurred from the brake fluid. Had to use Metal Ready to make sure all of the corrosion was out of the pits.
Starting to look like something! I also added a few tabs in the intake to keep the front of the ducting from moving.
There were a few holes that I decided to shift a bit...no problem just weld them shut.
More parts installed for good is a good feeling.
Tom...the front fuel line grommet arrived.
It is frick'n NOS.
I am going to feel bad slicing this up to work with the AN fuel lines.
Where did you find it? I may order one to have it hand if I ever pull the lines from my car.
I got it from aturboman (Robert) in response to my WTB ad. He was able to get it out immediately and at a very decent price. Thanks, Robert!
I did consider the NOS fact for about 30 seconds, then figured it's not something a concourse judge will ever see, so no real value from that perspective.
Spare tire mount & repaint looks fantastic.
Pulled the engine so that I could finish running everything down the center tunnel.
Just a few grommets.
Still need to place the clutch and brake lines. I thought that I knew where I wanted them but decided to move things around a bit.
More plumbing installed.
I had to modify the fuel lines. I set the dimensions for CRF to match what I had on my car which does not use the factory brake proportioning valve. My lines rung right through that area so I had to shorten them and weld on new fittings. Fortunately I had some left over from my lines. A little time on the lathe and welding table and they are correct.
Crappy thing about using the proper sized grommets is that the tube is tight to pull through. So nice though...
I also cleaned up the rear of the floor pan where the edge was goop welded. It was a bit too close to my work and could have been thought to have been something that I did...now it is and is done properly.
I'm absolutely loving the progress. You're crushing it, Scott. So many little things that were bothering me, are bothering you too...except you have the ability to actually fix them.
Can't wait to see this thing on the road.
Been a while since an update...havn't fallen off the earth, just not very active online.
I did take a couple of weeks of garage time to make the wife happy and insulate the shop and put up wall covering. I posted a picture on the Porsti build thread.
As for progress on Grey, knocking stuff off the list toward road worthyness.
A few photogenic updates:
Finally got the auxilary fuse/relay box to fit properly. Required quite a bit of reshaping, probably would have been quicker to cut the area out and weld in a flat section pre-cutout for the box. Still needs to be painted.
Also got the IC pump mounted and the overflow and IC reservoir modified/mounted.
The pump sort of interfered with the bottom battery tray mount that was unnecessary and quite ugly...so I removed it. This opened a huge can of worms due to the less than stellar hell hole repair. For a couple of hours I was seriously contemplating redoing the entire hell hole repair. More than a little cutting/welding/grinding later and the area is presentable.
I decided to attach the expansion tank to the IC reservoir which made it impossible to use the inlet I cut it out and plugged the opening (pic pre welding). I also added spacers to the back of the reservoir because during one of Tom's visits he pointed out that it is a bit tight to get to the cap. Still not super convenient but better.
Made some plates to attach the two reservoirs. The expansion tank was chromed so I sandblasted it to remove the bulk of it. Turned up the cleaning a bit on the TIG and it welded pretty well.
I still need to add the inlet bung and will probably put a braket at the bottom of the expansion tank.
Happy New Year
Happy New Year, Scott!
Garage looks great.. Grey is coming together nicely... looks as if 2019 is going to be an excellent year.
Another big task check off the thist and one that I was avoiding.
Filled all of the unnecessary holes in the trunk (and one that I buggered up installing the batter box).
So much better, and got the the bulkhead connectors installed.
I knew it was going to be close fitting three but it was really close.
I bit more smoothing and then paint.
I'm assuming that you're still putting the computer back there. Those connectors will be brilliant for that.
Sorry about the big hole. I later had the idea to put the ATW intercooler back there for some dumb reason. That one is on me!
Bit of a mixed bag of success this weekend. Was planning to do final assembly of the cooling lines but the step clamps that I ordered arrived as 31.6mm instead of 36.1mm.
Jumped to install the clutch reservoir line. Went in pretty well but tube was a bit loose on the MC fitting so I installed a step clamp for good measure. While I was at it I decided the brake reservoir hose needed them also. Got the clamps slid over from the reservoir side but could not get the tool in to make the crimp. Out comes the MC...
No chance of them leaking or blowing off during pressure bleeding now!
While fussing with the rear springs a while ago I managed to lose one of the big washers. Finally found a replacement and pulled the rear apart to install it.
It's funny, I'm looking at that second picture, and remembering the weekend that my son and I spent cleaning re-building that steering rack. That was the first time I used my soda blaster.
Update from the last two weeks. Two weekends ago I was in Vail so no progress but had a great time. This past weekend was quite productive.
I finished up the trunk. Good amount of grinding and hammering to get it reasonably flat. I am not a huge fan of cut trunks but this doesn't look so bad.
Didn't take a picture but I got sick of dropping nuts and washers when installing/removing the battery box so I put in nutserts.
Back to the front. Pulled all of the ducting and installed the nutserts. Reinstalled the hard lines for the coolant with the Oetiker stepless ear clamps in place. I ordered the smaller of the two sizes that would work just to make sure that I got a good clamping force but it made it a huge pain to install. Still not crimped close just in case I need to make some adjustments.
I'll refinish the top piece so that the texture is uniform. Hard to see in the picture but the fasters are stainless steel flanged button head socket cap screws, super clean.
Tom, here are some pictures of the 944 phone dials to confirm fitment of your Fuchs. Looks like there is pleanty of room. ID of these wheels is ~14.5"
If anyone is looking for a set of phone dials...I am looking to get these out of the garage.
The throttle cable also arrived. Quite a bit shorter than ideal but Looks like I can make it work. I did get a bit panicked when I installed it in the pedal linkage. I had forgotten how close that linkage is to the ex-clutch cable pivot. I was convinced that pressing the clutch pedal would pull the throttle cable. Clearance should be the same as stock...at least that is what I keep telling myself.
Oooohhhhmmmm ...... everything will work out..... ooohhhhhhhmmmmmmm... throttle cable will be fine.... ooohhhmmmmmm.
The happiest day of my life will be the day I Text Tom to ask how much it'll cost me to buy Grey back.
Keep rocking guys! Looking great.
Hmm, that reminds me.. gotta get a new cell phone number.
Not really project related other than killing 10 days of progress...I had another business trip to Japan. While there I took the time to finally visit Diakoku Futo PA. Think of Cars and Coffee at a truck stop on a small island in Tokyo Bay. If you don't know what it is, check out some videos. Weather was not great on the Saturday night I visited but a good crown considering. One of my colleagues had just returned to Japan after an assignment in the US and brought back is Grand Sport so he picked me up and we tore around Tokyo after checking out the car scene.
On with the build progress...
Next step to beinging done is to take it all back apart
Finished welding unnecessary holes in the manifold and smoothing a few more casting lines.
Also added the IAT sensor bung to the bottom of the IC. And cut off and welded shut an unused mounting lug.
Now I know why powder coating costs so much. Sand blasting and masking take forever.
I wanted to match the factory Subaru crinkle paint and found a product that is high temp and somehow crinkles as it dries. Instructions called for 3 "heavy" coats. What a terrible product to spray. It comes out in huge drops and is either not covering completely or on the verge of running. The drops are so big that half do not make it to the target and make a huge mess on the floor.
Even after being gone for two days it was still curing (in the basement) when I returned so I had to accelerate it. Instructions called for 200 deg oven but the wife would not have been down with that, so...
Final assembly!!! Can't just throw it together though, everything needs to be cleaned.
I was a little worried that something might have found its way into the intake ports so I checked all of them...perfectly clean. Will pull the plugs and use a bore scope to check out the combustion chamber prior to firing.
Finally coming together for the final time. All of the raw aluminum is getting a rub down with green and then white scotch bright pads to even out the finish a bit. Fussy but makes a huge difference. Oh, also drilled and tapped the fuel rail for the pressure gauge.
Looks absolutely amazing. Can't wait to see her on the road!
“Now I know why powder coating costs so much. Sand blasting and masking take forever”
It’s always the prep that takes 95% of the time.
Removing old powder coat takes forever.
Easy way to remove Powdercoat is higher heat, it becomes ash once you get it hot enough, and let it cool back down in a controlled fashion. Bring it up slow, bring it back down slowly. Like diving you don't want to get the bends.
Did not look like that the last time I was there.
Well, I learned a fun fact today...Subaru does not sell the throttle body shaft seals. I couldn't find them online so I took the part to a local Subaru dealership with a decent parts guy and he confirmed that they are not available.
Fortunately I have another.
Will not be nice and freshly sandblasted but will do the trick. Just need to weld on another v-band flange which should arrive Friday.
::: debating if I should comment about the crocs or not :::
This was a week of mostly fun with wires.
Raw materials...plus a bunch of crimpers and new connectors. Using Doug's start as a base, every connector is new. I would have started completely from scratch but Doug color coded the injectors and coils the same for each cylinder. That is the kind of detail I appreciate.
Connectors for the IAC,Knock sensor and Crank position sensors will arrive Tuesday. Crank and cam sensors were already wired with fresh wires and connectors but after much soul searching I was uncomfortable that they were unshielded so I picked up 50ft of 2 conductor shielded Tefzel.
Key to good wiring is good documentation.
Also fixed and painted the front IC mount.
And replaced the other water pump return line with AN. I did this on porsti with Grey's heater return/bypass as inspiration and just happened to have a 1/4NPT/6AN fitting in the garage...
Some may say I have trust issues but push lock fittings make me nervous.
This thing was bothering me so as I was cleaning up for the night I decided to shorten it. Results can be found in the first two engine pics...paint still drying.
Heads Up: I didn't do a THING to that transmission. I was told that it was in good working order, and had a cryoed main in it from a rebuild 5,000mi ago, but other than draining the oil out of it. I did nothing.
...not that it matters. I'm sure you've been over every bolt I put in the car "just to make sure".
6 years, 58 pages!! how close are we to having it back on the road?
I was going to give you a hard time about that but then I realized that ive had my car 10 years aog had it on the road on and off, but was not until last year that it was really finished. this is really cool and I may be a bit jealous, my thought was that there has to be an easier and faster way to put a suby motor in a 914? kudos to your perseverance it will surely be worth it! I hope next time I am up that way to Cincy to see my nephew that this thing is running and on the road I would love to see it- or better yet bring it to Okteenerfest!
It's a good read for anyone contemplating a conversion. The engines don't just plug in all by themselves. There's a lot of work that goes into a successful swap and the devil is in the details. It's not the solution for someone who just doesn't want to spend the money rebuilding the original engine. Scott is taking this to another level in terms of fit and finish. My car will be a basic conversion with good functioning parts but nothing exotic or custom.
Finished up the engine side. Once it is terminated at the bulkhead connectors I will take it out and wrap it.
Time for the ecu side...setup and ready to go.
Some hours later. Could have been quicker but weather pack connectors are really fussy to properly crimp on the seal.
Lets vote...does Grey need a party mode?
I vote YES for pahty mode!
Please explain this for the non turbo people like me.
Nevermind - looked it up on Wikipedia
Yes. He should nuke it so the car is worthless and I can buy it back for $1.
Man, I remember programming the heat-shrink printer with all of those wraps. Then making sure I had the right one with the right wire. Then crimping all the wires. What a royal pain in the ass. I hope it made it easier for you, though!
Much cutting, stripping, labeling, crimping later and the engine is fully terminated.
Dime bag of adulthood.
Those go over a small section of the braided shield and are heat shrunk.
The ring of solder melts connecting the lead to the shield. Life was so much simpler when proper wiring included the use of bullet connectors "crimped" onto the wire with channel lock pliers.
Next the harness comes out and get wrapped.
Also painted this guy.
And powered up the ecu. It was a little cranky when I first powered up and freaked me out a bit. Turned out that the firmware on the ECU didn't like the updated version of the tuning SW. All better now.
That all looks SO outstanding. Great job, as ALWAYS, Scott.
Engine is just about finished. Went through and checked/marked all of the fasteners. Gave the IC/and piping a rub down with green and white pads to even out the finish and installed all everything.
...except the fuel line. I wrestled with push lock fittings for an hour. If anyone is thinking that you are going to save money using push lock over proper AN fittings with fuel lines...don't. You will just end up buying the $300 assembly tool like I just did. Push lock is OK for the lower pressure rated hose but apparently impossible with proper fuel line.
The push lock pusher arrived and while substantially easier than without it (as in possible to assemble)...it was still remarkably difficult. I can confidently conclude that this is a really bad application for the product. Anyways, it turned out really well.
And more wiring. Much, much more wiring. Pretty sure that I doubled the wires in the harness, not counting the connections between the ECU/engine.
It is ready to wrap and go into the car but I want to go through it one last time to make sure that I didn't miss any wires.
Also almost doubled the fuses and relays.
There were a few areas of the harness that I extended to get to the new ECU and I wanted to keep all of the original colors, luckily I have parts of 3 harnesses to pull wires from. Also fixed quite few overly dry and modified/cut/nicked wires.
This car is going to be an absolute masterpiece. I can't even believe it.
In the last post I left the harness complete but wanted to take a night to sleep on it before wrapping. Good think I did, I missed a couple of grounds and one power.
Much has happened since then, will share what I took pictures of.
Harness was completely wrapped except for a few areas to make it easier to get through the firewall grommet. Only have a picture of partial wrappage.
Removed a few random bracket leftovers and a few other unused bits of metal from this area and then repainted. Also cleaned up and painted the front of the longs that I modified.
Skip forward a 4 day weekend and the harness is in place, fuel lines made for the engine compartment and other lines/wires organized and mounted.
Everything is held in place with these ty-rap tabs rivet in place except the fuel lines which use these double clamps modified for a through bolt into a nutsert.
I added a number of things to the harness to make it easy to add features that the ecu supports that are not on the current to do list. Flex fuel connection in the engine compartment, clutch switch by the pedals, and several inputs for switches/dials by the shifter....(ecu has dial a boost capability )
I measured off of a mostly complete original harness to get the positions of where the battery connections and ecu bundle would exit the harness but the area where the harness goes into the back trunk was a bit tighter than I anticipated and required quite a bit of rework to make right. I had to remove the trunk spring bracket and open up the passage into the rear trunk as well as unwrap and rework this area of the harness. Luckily I left enough extra wire.
It was surprisingly fussy getting the harness to the stock locations. A few extra wires and a fully wrapped harness limited the flexibility quite a bit. Still not completely happy with it.
I left a bit too much of a service loop to the aux fuse/relay box.
Funny seeing my "Happy 30th Birthday" steering wheel there. lol
As always, great work Scott.
I am shocked that it still has the original fuse block. That Jwest engineering one would add a blade fuses to the operation instead of the old round ones.
Looks great, and a lot more progress since I last saw it before the 4 day weekend. Great work.
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