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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Can the oil filter housing be removed with the engine in the car?
Posted by: tornik550 Aug 21 2013, 01:33 PM
As the title says- can the oil filter housing on a -4 be removed with the engine in the car. At least without major difficulty.
Posted by: bandjoey Aug 21 2013, 01:44 PM
A little trouble but doable. See pelican parts tech artic with pictures on changing oil cooler seals and U can see how the filter base comes out.
Posted by: type47 Aug 21 2013, 01:46 PM
Do you mean the intermediate flange that the oil filter mounts on? 
If you are, then no you can't remove it easily with the engine in the car. It'd save time to remove the engine due to the items that must be removed from the engine to get to the top nut holding the flange (front engine tin, fan, fan housing with alternator, oil cooler). Just been through this ...
Attached image(s)
Posted by: tornik550 Aug 21 2013, 01:57 PM
Yes- I am talking about the intermediate flange.
I suppose I should change my question to- is there a good way to plug the filter bypass valve without removing the engine?
Posted by: McMark Aug 21 2013, 02:09 PM
Not really.
Posted by: type47 Aug 21 2013, 03:06 PM
Yes- I am talking about the intermediate flange.
I suppose I should change my question to- is there a good way to plug the filter bypass valve without removing the engine?
I just bit the bullet and dropped the engine. Again, I think there is not a good way to easily plug the filter bypass valve without removing the engine. I had a friend install a plug he basically custom machined to fit (thanks Root).
see page 10:
https://pcapotomac.org/attachments/article/117/AugustdV2013.pdf
Posted by: stugray Aug 21 2013, 05:14 PM
Maybe a better question is:
"is it possible to remove the oil filter and plug the relief hole without removing the intermediate flange?"
Stu
Posted by: stugray Aug 21 2013, 06:03 PM
Here is a pic:
You can see the pressed in valve "seat" that has the ball valve behind it.
If you were to pull that out, the resulting hole appears to be ~.72"
The "Boss" around that hole is ~1"
I think you could pull out the seat and tap that hole to 3/4"
Add a plug and youre done.
maybe?
I would try it with the spare just for grins, but I dont want to ruin one just for the experiment.
However I did try to see how much pressure it takes to open the valve but the pressure is so low it would be hard to test.
I am guessing well below 10 PSI.
Stu
Posted by: tornik550 Aug 21 2013, 06:50 PM
Here is a pic:
You can see the pressed in valve "seat" that has the ball valve behind it.
If you were to pull that out, the resulting hole appears to be ~.72"
The "Boss" around that hole is ~1"
I think you could pull out the seat and tap that hole to 3/4"
Add a plug and youre done.
maybe?I would try it with the spare just for grins, but I dont want to ruin one just for the experiment.
However I did try to see how much pressure it takes to open the valve but the pressure is so low it would be hard to test.
I am guessing well below 10 PSI.
Stu
I'll let you know in a few days if it works cause I just tried it. Worst case scenario- it doesn't work and I have to mount a new intermediate plate.
I filled the bypass hole with JB weld- then found a plug that was slightly oversized and then pounded it in. I coated the edges of the plug with JB weld. It is very firmly in place.
Posted by: stugray Aug 28 2013, 08:16 AM
Based on this thread, it is definitely possible:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=218024
Based on the pictures there, you do not even need to loosen the oil cooler.
Thanks sean_v8_914!
Stu
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Aug 28 2013, 08:49 AM
I think I tried it once, and I think I ended up removing the engine. Look, TWO thoughts, both related, in one day! Pretty good, huh?
The Cap'n
Posted by: tornik550 Aug 28 2013, 09:01 AM
I just did the repair with my engine in the car. I removed the shroud and oil cooler. Took 2 hours. Now it appears there is an easier way.
Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Aug 28 2013, 09:46 AM
I just did the repair with my engine in the car. I removed the shroud and oil cooler. Took 2 hours. Now it appears there is an easier way.
Trust me, I've never had even the most remote interest in removing the fan shroud with the engine in the car, even when I was young and limber. To me, that seems like the hardest of all possible hard ways .........................
The Cap'n
Posted by: r_towle Aug 28 2013, 10:50 AM
If you are trying to get away with the least amount of effort here, you can just "drop" the engine and then remove the front fan shroud and tin...
Still a PITA and in my opinion, not worth the effort considering all that is left is the axles and shifter.
I actually drop the motor for valve adjustments....just cause its easier to do ......
rich
Posted by: stugray Aug 28 2013, 11:29 AM
based on the pics from the thread linked above, you do not have to remove the shroud.
The pics show that you can get to the upper bolt on the intermediate flange without issue.
Stu
Posted by: Drums66 Aug 28 2013, 11:41 AM
....If &'s or but's candy & nut's(save your knuckle's) 
Posted by: toadman Aug 28 2013, 12:50 PM
This past winter I changed the oil cooler and seals with the engine in the car. I did not have to remove the fan shroud. In the process I did have to remove the oil filter mount. It was not an easy or quick job but, even for a non-mechanic like me, it is possible. I got most of my information from a 10 or 12-step procedure that Clay Perrine outlined in a thread here on 914World Garage. I did have to make a few mid-course adjustments but it is definitely doable.
Posted by: tornik550 Aug 28 2013, 01:09 PM
Unfortunately, I did not realize that I didn't have to remove the shroud. However, it really wasnt that difficult.
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