(UPDATED with comments below)
From the photos, this is what I see that is not correct. Anything I'm missing?
Not correct / things to fix:
- outside mirror
- speaker boxes
- after market front air dam
- 80s radio
- white valve covers
- rust (?) spots on carpet
- painted (?) headlight motors
- 4-cyl center console
- color change back to Irish Green
- wheel center caps need to be anodized or something
- incorrect jack
- black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum
Not right but no reason to "correct" (IMO):
- Euro lenses
- Euro driving lights vs USA fog lights
- 15x6 Fuchs (was originally steel)
May or may not be correct:
- horn button is not correct
- center seat fabric should be smooth (Center cushion could be the Colgan aftermarket item, period correct)
questions / not sure:
- antenna may not be right... ?
- repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet). or might be orig.
-Steve
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And paint (color change from Irish Green) from the 80s that is going bad...
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Looks fun:I would drive it!!
Euro driving lights vs USA fog lights
Center cushion could be the Colgan aftermarket item, period correct
Euro lenses!
Black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum
Incorrect jack
Repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet)
Looks like a cared-for driver now...could be a gem in Irish Green after a full strip and rotisserie
Tool kit doesn't appear to be basket weave...
I believe a previous asking was 35k for this -6
Painted headlight motors!? RUN AWAY...
Looks pretty good from here. None of the low points are un-fixable.
Very few things are better than an Irish Green 6er...it needs to go back to that color! I'd say high 20's low 30's....
Thanks for the feedback. I updated the first post.
It's just what happens with years of owners customizing. I wouldn't mind getting it and fixing some of those things.
Granted a purist wouldn't like what I'm doing to my car...but it was a lowly 1.7 to start with (found the original badge marks when I sent it off for paint)
Gas tank area is suppose to be painted body color. Shock tower area is undercoated. A lot of people do a color change and just spray bomb black that area since it takes some time to dismantle. My opinion that is a drawback- many comments on cosmetics-do not overlook the drivetrain-make sure car has good compression and trans shifts properly- engine rebuild on a 914-6 is the same as a 911 Big $$ Good luck!
An update! The seller and I finally came to agreement (was about 3 weeks of back and forth) and I bought the car this weekend. I flew to Portland this weekend and drove back in 2 days. Just over 1,000 miles in 2 days, and that's more than the car has been driven in 10 years. He really needed it and seemed quite happy to be on the road again (especially south on the I-5 near Sacramento at 1am...).
It's funny how much more you learn about a car just driving it a bunch, even beyond photos, PPI, and close inspection.
I've got a long list of items to fix on the car (that got a little longer as I drove home), but it's quite fun to own my first real 6. My 5th 914, but my first real six.
And given that I have 3 914s now, the 1971 1.7 will probably be for sale shortly. The wife wants to limit it to 3 914s at any given time, and that actually seems somewhat reasonable to me...
-Steve
> Black plastic threshold plates and carpet cleat should be aluminum
Right, but the weird thing is these are the original aluminum peices that the PO had anodized (or something) black. He said in the 80s he was going for a black and white theme...
> Incorrect jack
> Tool kit doesn't appear to be basket weave...
Correct - all wrong and missing
> Repro rear trunk carpet (missing grommet)
> My '70 rear trunk carpet does not have the grommet.
It looks like some don't have the grommet. PO said that was the correct color and the Brett Johnson book has some photos of rear carpet with the grommet too.
> It needs to go back to that color!
I agree. Too bad it was ever painted. Even ratty Irish Green would be better than peeling white...
> Shock tower area is undercoated.
Correct. Anyone know why the factory did this on -6s? It doesn't make any sense to me. It's ugly and seems to serve no purpose.
-Steve
Congratulations! You have yourself a nice Six there. I really look forward to seeing it come to the level that I know you will bring it to.
I have the correct front valance if you chose to go back stock.
Steve,
Well educated move. You posted it and asked for advice and hopefully you used it in your favor to set your target price. Congrats on another -6
> I have the correct front valance if you chose to go back stock
That's actually an old photo, it has a repro stock looking front valence on it now.
Well I've been digging into fixing all the things wrong with my new -6.
I assumed the engine would need a full rebuild, and of course it did. And like all 914 projects it ends up taking twice and long and twice as much as you'd expect.
I've done 95% of the work on my orange conversion, but for this project I'm just planning on keeping it a stock [very nice] driver and letting some shops do 90% of the work.
I had European Motorsports in nearby Vista do the engine rebuild. They do general euro car maintenance and work on some very high end cars at the same time. An original 73 RS and original speedster were both getting engine rebuilds at the same time as mine. I've never had them do major work like this before, but they come pretty highly recommended.
I'm pretty happy with the results and communication so far, but I thought I'd share some photos here for any additional input you guys may have. While I'm not building a perfect concours car, I guess I did expect things to end up, cosmetically, a little more perfect and shiny. Especially given the $$$$$ involved. Or maybe I'm just way overly anal retentive on my orange car. Let me know your thoughts.
After much deliberation, we re-used the old cylinders and bored them out to 81mm (from 80mm) and have new 81mm pistons. E cams, updated tensioners, and otherwise 100% stock. I really didn't have any interest in trying to get a little more horsepower out of it, because even if I could get 170+ HP out of the little 2.0 (or 2.4 or ...) it would still be a relatively (to a 3.6) slow car. So the build was just to get a very nice 2.0 motor.
Factory 80mm 2.0 pistons are much (like an additional $6k) more expensive than going to 81mm. And in the interest of keeping everything stock, I didn't want to machine the heads for anything larger. I think it will end up with 130 HP or so. Should be fun.
And new flywheel, new clutch, and rebuilt the transmission too...
See any problems? Things that should be changed before it goes back into the car?
My questions:
- is that hardware (1 nut, 1 wingnut) correct for the air cleaner/snorkel?
- I'm guessing blue plug wires are wrong?
- can the carbs be cleaned up easily with a little more effort or ?
- rubber fuel lines ok or should I really bother finding german/cloth lines?
- allen bolts on cam covers look right?
- whats proper for the valve covers? (lowers were updated to later covers)
- what the proper way to cover/protect the oil temp/pressure wires? or is there nothing like it currently is?
Thanks for any tips!
And I'll follow up shortly with the "replace the battery tray" repair that turned into something much more! (first time that's happened in a 914, right?!?!
-Steve
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To me, there are some things that just make sense to change. With todays fuels, fuel lines is one of them. I'm glad you have this car. It's in good hands.
Small 914 world. I looked at that 6 for a customer.
Crag at CAMP
studs on lower covers and get SC lowers , as they are aluminum and look stock,.air cleaner should be plastic. plug wires? no biggy consumable
Irish Green .....
What a cool story and project. I hadn't seen this thread until today. I did notice something IMPORTANT...at least if you want your valve adjustments to go well and not have to include dropping or lowering the engine. The turbo valve covers must be machined down about one half inch on the rear half or they will not be able to be removed once the engine is in the car. Some folks say only the right side needs to me machined...I didn't take the chance and just had both covers machined down. I've attached a couple of pics that Rich Johnson sent to me when I was making this mod to my car. I took the covers to a local machine shop and I think they charged me about 1/2 hour labor or approximately $30 to do the work. Additionally, some years ago I found a photobucket from "RJ Wilmoth" that has quite a lot of great pics of his fairly unmolested 1971 Silver 914/6...It's a beauty...I have used these pics to help understand what things look like for parts of my car which is a -6 conversion. Here is the link to his photobucket pics. Some great shots of the engine and engine bay along with many other areas of the car. Hope this helps!
http://s199.photobucket.com/user/rj968/library/#/user/rj968/library/1971%20Porsche%20914-6?sort=3&page=0&_suid=1383497129961032975035906505395
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> The turbo valve covers must be machined down
Yup, that's on the list. And I think they mentioned they were going to use bolts instead of studs/nuts there...
-Steve
> fuel lines is one of them
Yup, all the fuel lines have been replaced, I guess I was just wondering about using the rubber ones (pictures) versus what I believe should be german/cloth covered fuel lines.
-Steve
A couple more photos...
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Neither one is correct on the air cleaner, that said, neither is the air cleaner. The snorkel is correct but the cleaner housing is not.
Both should be "Plastic" wing nuts on black plastic studs with black plastic nuts to lock the studs in place.
Speaking of plastic, the original -6 housing is plastic, low profile with the cold enrichment circuit squirters built in. You can possibly use an old MFI housing (same housing without the cumbersome enrichment circuit) but you may have to drill a few holes for your float vents.
Black plug wires for sure.
Carbs, yes but, how far do you want to go? They do look pretty bad though.
I prefer new cloth covered fuel lines. Your call.
Re: valve covers. Do you need to machine turbo covers if you don't mind dropping the engine for maint?
> original -6 housing is plastic, low profile with the cold enrichment circuit squirters built in
Is the 911 plastic housing different than the 914-6 plastic housing?
I.e. is this the right one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-901-911-PLASTIC-AIR-FILTER-CLEANER-BOX-SNORKEL-/380749017920?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a668f340&vxp=mtr
> The Marelli distributor is right, but it is also not so good.
By "not so good" do you mean just dirty or ?
VIN is 9140430377
-Steve
Or is this one correct?
-Steve
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That's the MFI housing I mentioned. If you look at the top of your carbs you will see two float bowl vents sticking up between the air horns. If you look at that housing, it has no means to accommodate those vents.
That said, I really like that housing because it is basically the same as the 914-6 unit but, without the cumbersome and somewhat dangerous cold start we mentioned in the previous posts.
Solution = 1/2" Spade bit. Drill 4 holes.
Steve...
went and took a couple of shots of the air box off my 914-6
my snorkel was cut off (by a PO) long time ago...wish I could find one..anyone have one for sale??
you can see the holes for the cold start arrangement...they are plugged up right now
with plastic hole plugs....it has metal studs, washers, and wing nuts for the snorkel and metal breather hose inlet...
John
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Car is back and has a fully rebuilt 2.0 now. Wow, that was expensive. In general, I've discovered that the less horsepower a Porsche engine makes, the more expensive they are to rebuild. Strange.
Anyways, doesn't it look like the engine is sitting too low?
-Steve
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Yep, it's sitting too low, check to see which way the washers for the mount are installed
I think a Porsche engine rebuild is about the same no matter the power. Stock/low HP versions usually use factory bits instead of aftermarket, so that may be the $$.
Good thing mine is not going to be stock But color me jealous of the heat exchangers. Did I miss something, I thought this car was white...
> I thought this car was white
Yup, the car is white, but is originally Irish Green, which I'm bring it back to. So the engine bay and rear trunk were entirely
I've basically started the car change process, and hopefully don't need to pull the engine again.
-Steve
And some more photos... (before and after)
It's amazing how much faster this stuff happens when I'm not the one doing the work.
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Nice choice to bring back the Irish Green!!! I'm green with envy...
Looking good, I'm excited to see this car get the attention it deserves.
> I think a Porsche engine rebuild is about the same no matter the power.
It actually would have been cheaper for me to rebuild the car as a 2.2 or 2.4 with a little more horsepower, but that would require machining the heads and making it more non-stock.
My thought was it's going to be a slow car compared to my 3.6 no matter how I build this engine, so I'm trying to keep it very near stock, or at least 100% reversible. And so far I'm pretty happy with my choice. The engine sounds awesome - just like an early 911 - imagine that!
The engine does have E cams now, because that just seemed like a better choice (S is too peaky). But if someone really cared in the future they could go back to T cams.
And I have decided to paint the whole bottom of the car body color (rather than the gray/white/overspray debate) because I just don't feel like it makes sense to try and copy the factory's imperfections. All body color looks better to me, and probably protects a little better too.
-Steve
This was his roommate while getting worked on (it's real).
-Steve
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Very cool updated pictures, the change back to irish green is always nice. Old local 914club member had one and it always looked sharp. Nice garage roomie while the work was being done too!
I agree with you 100% regarding the underside of the car. I would rather have the bottom painted as nicely as the rest of the body panels. I know that they came less than that from the factory but I want mine completely painted and protected as much as possible.
Gotta love the Irish Green….
Nice work on a great car!
I think you are making the right choices.
John
Real sweet......
I got these photos from the body shop today...
The long repair. Funny how small cracks make for BIG holes...
-Steve
And the battery box area repair.
Anything the experts out there would have done differently? I'm considering having this shop do the exterior as well...
-Steve
This doesn't look so bad...
Argh, worse than I thought...
Holy crap!!!
914
Nice! There moving right along!
I think it's safe to say they are all rusted out in the battery box area. The more Scotty cleaned in mine, the more he found...and my car is a damn solid car (in 914 terms).
Good work getting it fixed when you see it!
From May 1977 when he was still Irish Green... But has the 15" Fuchs that it still has today - originally had steelies.
-Steve
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Man that looks great! What are you going to tackle next?
Me and My Six 1979, Irish green all the way
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Best Color Ever.
> What are you going to tackle next?
The car is running and drivetrain-wise is pretty solid now. The plan is to put a couple hundred miles on it to work out all the kinks, and then take the rest of it apart for a full repaint (leaving the engine in). And that time I'll also refurbish the suspension, brakes, gas tank, new carpet, etc and then have a pretty nice little six!
-Steve
I haven't seen this before. Maybe it's just early car vs late car, but the thin sound padding on the firewall was sprayed/melted on. On all the later cars I've seen this is just a sheet the peels (usually falls) off.
-Steve
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The wires were embedded in it a bit...
-Steve
Why you should fix a loose rear window... Especially if you live in Portland.
-Steve
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When I started to pull up all the tar. Note there are no "carpet hold downs" on the main floor board. They aren't on either side, but the factory tar is still everywhere.
-Steve
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what your showing in the pic should just peel off.
> what your showing in the pic should just peel off.
I agree, it "should", but something happened to this one. It was glued/melted on to the the firewall, and also onto the backpad. It did come out eventually though.
-Steve
That's weird about the carpet holders....
my six has no carpet holders and factory carpet has no holes. 0390
> my six has no carpet holders and factory carpet has no holes. 0390
Well that's news to me. I'll leave it as-is.
-Steve
While I love Fuchs on 914s, and 15x6s are one of my favorites (great proportions), it's been bugging me that these aren't "correct" for a 914-6. So I've been debating going with 14" Fuchs or something different, but still correct for a 914-6.
These arrived today...
-Steve
That's cosmoline in the first picture, but they cleaned up very nicely.
-Steve
I like the look of the gas burners. Mine weighed 10.2 lbs. Nothing wrong with having more than one set of wheels to play with. I believe prices will only increase on all the favorite Porsche wheels so you can't go wrong sitting on a set or 2.
Correct wheels can be a fuzzy area. They can fall into the same area as "stock radio" and antenna. They were not installed at the factory but the dealer installed what the customer wanted. Lots of 911 updates were dealer installed per customer request.
> Correct wheels can be a fuzzy area.
Sort of, if we start the factory vs dealer debate. But for factory wheels and what appears on a COA, I think it's pretty clear that the only options for 914-6s were:
- steel wheels
- 14" fuchs wheels
- mahle gas burner wheels
Right?
-Steve
That is correct. . .only 14" Fuch's
however IIRC factory GT's did come with 15" Fuch's
My version of the Bible shows em, printed 1/74
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I think wheel choice was a crap shoot, not an option , depended on the rest of the options, dictated by bean counters. Then at the dealer is a whole nother deal..
well documented OG -6
http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/image/25927225
> My version of the Bible shows em, printed 1/74
Show's what? That photo looks like steelies, 14" Fuchs, and Mahles... ?
-Steve
I think the Gas Burner is one of the best looking wheels on a Six. I badly want a set of for my Six but since I have a matching set of deep sixes I need to wait until my car is actually a car again before I search for Gas Burners….but I fully intend to have a set for it then.
And one last "test ride" before disassembly for paint...
-Steve
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Way to go!
White, green, and black (spray paint! argh!!!!), and a little rust...
-Steve
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One spray painted horn, one not. And... are these original? They look different than those on my other cars.
-Steve
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Removed old aftermarket sway bar. Anyone know what brand it is? Quality actually seems pretty decent...
-Steve
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Green, white overspray, and original 914-6 grey struts peeking through...
-Steve
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All four calipers removed and ready to be restored.
-Steve
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Nice... I'm pretty sure these are the original fuel lines. One also didn't have a hose clamp - on the car end of the hose. Is that right? Perhaps the return line didn't require a clamp? That doesn't seem right to me, but it looks like this gas tank had never been removed.
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It is the stock six washer pump. Same one used on the 911 of the period. Easy to find, reproductions now available.
H&H Carrera, I have the same bar on my 911 and 914
Lucky the calipers survived.
> Did you happen to buy the Mahle wheels from a guy on Samba?
I did, but they came from New Zealand. Same guy?
-Steve
> H&H Carrera, I have the same bar on my 911 and 914
Thanks. Any idea why are some people looking for them:
http://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/showthread.php?40283-WTB-H-amp-H-old-school-sway-bars-f-r
?
-Steve
> Eric
> Lucky the calipers survived.
Yup, and you'll probably see them in a box shortly; I just need to get my parts list organized.
I'm curious, why do you say lucky? Sure they all get fugly with age, but with normal use/storage they don't often fail or become unrestorable, right? I guess I was just expecting to pull them off with issue.
-Steve
Looking good!!! looks wet under the gas tank as mine did, Are you going to remove the seam sealer ? We ran into a lot of rust under seam sealer
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> Many are missing their real six rear calipers.
Oh I see. Yes, nearly all the original parts are there.
-Steve
save the goo around the struts,, its original
Is the circled area wrinkled ??
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> Is the circled area wrinkled ??
Nope, just goop.
Body is almost entirely stripped now - I'll have some photos tomorrow.
-Steve
I'd like a shot at those Fuchs if you decide to sell them. Great car, great project!
Awesome
Nice progress!
Nothing sexier than a teener in primer.
....except...well...one that's done.
Irish Green looks a bit better than primer IMHO.
That is very exciting. One of these days I hope to see another Six in primer.......
Rear calipers look a little better. I'll try to clean them up a bit before putting them on.
-Steve
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This is what Eric @ PMB started with:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&showtopic=217713&view=findpost&p=2007775
(I assume the fronts are still coming, only one box showed up today...)
-Steve
Body to be painted next week. No more white and almost back to Irish Green...
-Steve
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Wow....looking awesome!
Looks awesome!!!
I got the black goo recipe from Mr Shea and was just waiting for the alignment to get done.
Looks great!
Take a close look at your washer pump.
Originals are often date stamped on the bottom.
Best part is, that they can usually be repaired or rebuilt.
I had sort of a strange question from the body shop today.
SHOP:
After review ...<snip>..., but we had no time for
color sand and buffing. So I just need to know how flat you would like the
finish product, I will take care of any dirt specs or drips. I know we
discussed leaving some orange peel but it is up to you.
ME:
Ok, understood. I'd like it to look really, really, nice. To be honest, I wasn't aware that some people intentionally left any orange peel.
SHOP:
but we had no time for color sand and buffing
ME:
I guess I assumed this was just part of the quote to "paint the whole car".
Regardless, how much time or money are we talking about? I don't want to cut corners now to save a small amount of time because this final work can have a major impact on the final product. So what's it take to make it really nice? I understand it's not a "Ridler show car", but the initial orange peel I saw the other day was way too much (looked like it was just sprayed which I understand).
My initial thought is I'd like it to be at least as flat as the original 1970 paint was, and probably a little better. I'll also research more to figure out what the right answer is.
-
So, 914world, any tips? How much orange peel is "right" for our cars?
-Steve
For my dollar with new paint, it has to be wet sanded and buffed . An original painted 914 + its texture (original patina) is there for the next buyer; or with a re-spray = a better looking car but no longer original paint/ texture. As far as affecting the values of the 914 at the selling point, some people want the unrestored patina / others welcome fresh + perfect. I think that color change affects value downward. I think your body shop is taking the short road on your deal.
Marty
I vote for no orange peal ...
Nothing beats a nice straight body than a perfect paint job !
No peal. Blocked, buffed, polished, hand rubbed. BTW: Single stage not clear coated. The reflection looks softer like factory paint.
100% Origonal Irish Green...showing the orange peel..
closeup of the door...best I can do....
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Talk to ScottyB...there's also the option of factory finish if it's been polished for the past 40+ years. One of our 356 friends wanted a factory finish, which means orange peel....saw another guy's original paint car that's been buffed/polished for 50 years...naturally he wanted his paint like that. FWIW the car won best of show at the Deutsche Marque Concours
Basically if you want it to look old stock, you'll have to buff/polish the orange peel out.
Great, thanks - that's helpful.
-Steve
Getting closer... (glass is back in)
-Steve
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On the way home for further dis-assembly (suspension) and then re-assembly.
-Steve
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Anyone ever heard of this brand of shocks? It was on all four corners.
All the suspension components on this car were totally shot - most were original. The other strut insert fell apart and leaked oil everywhere when I pulled it out.
And it still had the original (long) rear springs - I hadn't removed a set of those in 15+ years or so. I don't have a spring compressor, but my kids were amused how I could "shoot" the retaining nut and plate across the yard. It was relatively safe operation; I setup an 914 shock part artillery range in the front yard because I knew what to expect after having been quite surprised many years ago.
-Steve
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Hmmm.... ?
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=JMF+argentina
-Steve
You had to look that up?
Strange though, didn't know he had his own line of signature shocks...
Most of the plating and powder coating is done now. It's always hard to put cars back together like this and not make it too nice - this car will be 100% driver. Why do I need to re-plate the window guide that is inside the door that no one will ever see? I have no idea...
-Steve
That "upside-down washer" on top of the rear shocks never looks right to me, but I'm pretty sure that's what the Haynes manual says.
It's been a while since I've re-assembled a stock shock mount. Is this right?
-Steve
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Man is that car looking sweet. I can't wait until we are plating and powder coating parts for my car. Great job!
Another new item I learned is that the front shock mount plates are not all the same. I ordered a new one that came from Porsche, and it doesn't match the originals - it's a little smaller.
-Steve
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And yes... I re-plated those shock mounts and then I'm going to cover them up with black -6 goop again. I'm an idiot.
-Steve
The smaller mount looks like the one for a early 64-68 911.
Lots of work on the 914 this weekend, but not a whole lot of progress to show. I got the engine grill, rear lights, bumper, and valence installed, I thought I'd tackle the front turn signals. But, to do that I had to:
- Fix old hacked "repairs" in the original wiring harness
- Clean up old (white) overspray on the wiring harness
- Clean up the grounds.
- Install power antenna (to add to wiring harness).
- Apply heat shrink tubing to all the wiring harness tie downs. Man, I forgot how many of these things there are up there! They are everywhere.
So, about 6 hours later (literally), I had the front turn signals installed and working.
-Steve
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looks great!!! the hours add up fast for sure
Thanks for the ground picture, I think my passenger headlight ground sucks. I have a reference now to make sure it's correct looking/functioning.
FU stuck torsion bar, and FU rusted on brake lines. A long day with little progress. Argh.
-Steve
I did drop these off for new tires...
-Steve
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Shiny (evidently brake covers were cad plated on -6s, and black on -4s).
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I didn't really *need* a new brake reservoir, but the new one look so much nicer...
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Why these were painted silver, I have no idea...
And more white overspray was removed. Sometimes this project feels like it's 90% cleaning, 9% looking for parts/tools, 1% assembly.
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New [to me] 914 trivia:
I'm pretty sure that early 914 headlight bushings are white, and the later ones are black.
I know, fascinating.
-Steve
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This cleaned up really well. I also got rid of a water line stain on the inside by sloshing some diluted bleach around for a couple minutes.
-Steve
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Looking very nice my friend.
Is this right? I don't think I've had a car with this part before, I don't exactly remember what it looked like when I took it off.
-Steve
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Yes that is correct. I keeps the engine lid from damaging the rear trunk and vice-versa when they are both opened.
This is a very nice build and, yes, a few of us are jealous, very jealous. You are doing in real life what we dream about doing. What a nice car and a great project.
Bravo!!
> Yes that is correct. I keeps the engine lid from damaging the rear trunk and vice-versa when they are both opened.
Thanks. The black angle bracket being curved back inwards threw me off a little. I'm not sure why it would do that. Anyways...
-Steve
Made some more good progress this weekend. I'm getting closer...
-Steve
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And yes, those kids bikes next to the 914 make me EXTREMELY nervous.
(new house has two separate garages... )
-Steve
Looking great Steve can't wait to see it finished, keep the pictures coming. John
I postulate that it takes about 20 times longer to assemble than disassemble. Maybe more.
I only spent about 10 hours taking this car apart for paint, but I've easily spent more than 200 hours putting it back together. I'm almost there now, but even though this is the 4th major 914 assembly I have done, it still surprises my how long this stuff can take.
1 minute to disconnect and remove a front turn signal? Yeah, probably about 20 minutes to put it back together until it's right again.
If you spent 30 minutes taking something apart, it's going to take a full 10 hour day to put it back together.
Or maybe I'm just really slow and meticulous.
Plus - I think "assembling a car" is about 1% actually bolting things together...
9% - where is that part?
50% - cleaning, painting, plating, oiling, prepping
10% - finding nice new hardware for reassembly
10% - where is that tool?
10% - where is that nut I just dropped?
10% - taking it apart again (x2 or x3) because things were assembled in the wrong order
1% - actual final assembly
Anyways... almost there... (meaning probably only a couple hundred hours more )
Nice work Steve. It's like eating an elephant.
BTW,a word of caution re: the temporary hood prop.
I once caused great damage to a very expensive car by inadvertently knocking the prop out of place.
When it fell shut,it bent itself by gravity and momentum.
AM DB4,ouch.Had to repair it myself,a week's work.
Immaculate work on the 914.
still a lot of work to do, but a good milestone...
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The gas burner is the best looking wheel on these cars. I gotta get a set for my car!
The combo Irish green with the gas burners is stunning.
whats the proper "hub cap" for the mahles? also painted?
I'm so jealous. beautiful. Nice to be able to share the journey on this thread.
Keep up the great work!
got the wing windows and some trim installed tonight.
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Nice six, Ialso own one which is currently under restoration. The engine is read to install. Just to show my air filter housing a added a picture. I think this is the original one
Nice- I do believe that is the original Six air cleaner.
Yup - that looks like the right air cleaner to me. I bought one like it, but it's super warped and pretty much unusable - like most of the plastic ones.
Yes...correct 914-6 air filter housing....has the little rubber inlet holes and clips for the cold start fuel lines....nice looking engine rebuild!
another evening in the garage. fuel line was pinched so i had to pull the gas tank again. ive owned 914s for 23 years and have always been told to just install long lines to make the tank easier to pull. well that mostly works, but tonight i thought id try something different and use short lines that attach from the bottom like they came from the factory. it was actually really easy to connect
them that way.
anyways, he fired right up after sitting for about 10 months.
http://youtu.be/vcw4GCZAe0s
vroooooom.
still no brakes and no interior, but getting closer...
Sounds perfect and looks perfect.
Great video, I hope to get to that point some day.
Get an LED troublelight for working so close to an open fuel tank, made me nervous.
I totally agree that the grey version is the correct way to go.
great. Thanks for the info. Does anyone know of a source for the grey hubcaps?
>> great. Thanks for the info. Does anyone know of a source for the grey hubcaps?
> PORSCHE ? I guess these parts are still available.
Ah, I was looking up the wrong part number. I see now. Yes, readily available:
http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=432
I doubt that silver matches my wheels exactly though...
> Another question from my side. I saw at the second glance that you cleaned the side markers...why? That's a typical nice part of the US-equipment. Isn't it now a problem if you want to participate in a concours?
I just think those warts are super ugly, and would never have been added to the cars unless the US mandated it.
And I'm not too worried about "concours". My plan for the car is just to make a really nice, original driver. Some parts are probably over restored for just a driver, but it's hard for me not to clean things up as it goes back together. But it's really far from 100% concours correct.
Here is my current list of "what's not correct":
- Mahle wheels. These are correct for a 914-6, but this car came with steel wheels.
- 185 tires (should be 165 with the Mahle wheels).
- Original cylinders bored to 81mm, new 81mm pistons. Not 80mm, but heads did not have to be machined. So in theory, someone could go back to 100% original with new P&Cs if they really cared. 81x66 = 2041 cc, so it's still a "2.0".
- "E" cam (original have "T" cams, but if someone really cared, this could also be reversed 100%.
- Added later Carrera chain tensioners. Not original, but stupid not to add them (IMO).
- Added front sway bar (Tarrett).
- Bilstein shock and struts.
- Porterfield brake pads (not OE).
- Used an aftermarket washer pump, not OE.
- H4 headlights, not sealed beam.
- Not OE seatbelts
- Small triangle headlight plate is plated silver, and should be zinc plated.
- Gas cap is yellow cadmium plated, but should be zinc plated (I think). But it looks better this way IMO.
- Gas cap shroud thing is held in with socket cap screws, should be hex screws (it's all I had).
- Momo prototipo steering wheel with adapter.
- Power Hershmann antennea (original was manual).
- Used black undercoating on bottom of car (original was grey).
- Euro front and rear tail lights on a US car.
- Several parts powder coated, but original was paint.
- Several bolts/washers are zinc plated, and should be yellow cadmium (98% are correct).
And I'm probably missing a lot of other things. See anything else? Feel free to tear it apart!
On a side, note, I don't think I'll ever try to do a "correct"/"original" restoration again. I just don't enjoy being restricted to find the right bolts/coating/etc. I'd just rather put something in that looks nice and works well and not worry about it. It was more fun to be creative when building my orange 3.6 car.
-Steve
Off to get an alignment today...
-Steve
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Still some minor details like windows and an interior, but I did drive it to work today!
Vrooom!
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Showroom fresh, excellent work !
Marty
Very nice. The footage of how the strainer sock should look is informative for those experiencing fuel delivery issues.
I am so jealous...... happy motoring.
What a transformation from when I saw the car last year. Amazing, what a beautiful car you have there!
i was going to do just the back pad, but thought id try everything.
100 sq ft roll, probably 30%+ wasted.
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I would suggest cutting out in the channels in the floor. This will alow any moisture that collects there to dry out an not be trapped under the sound deadening.
Somehow, I'm now a fan of the Mahle wheels. They look unique and great on your car.
Bravo.
I have thought about the sound deadening foil-backed material for my Six. I believe I even sent a roll of it with the car when it went to Scotty's. We will be doing this as it keeps vibration and noise down inside and makes the car more comfortable to drive.
To be honest, I can't ever see my car sitting outside in the rain either. I think we would likely do the sound deadening material as siverson has done on his car. I know the school of thought regarding trapped moisture, but my car is not going to be a daily winter driver. How real is the threat of trapped moisture given those parameters?
> How real is the threat of trapped moisture given those parameters?
I did cut all edges/bends so there are no air pockets.
I think it is much better material than the factory tar, and provided you keep water out, even floors with the factory tar don't look that bad after 40 years.
So, I'm obviously betting it will be ok - only install flat sheets (when in doubt cut it out) and keep the water out of the car.
-Steve
I got a lot more done on the car this weekend.
- Finished the sound deadening.
- Hacked together 6 black vinyl strips to sit below the carpet.
- Took me three attempts at building a speaker mount to get one that would fit. It's tight in there!
- Cleaned up the brake handle and seat rails.
- Starting installing the carpet.
- Installed the back pad and seats again and took him on a short drive.
-Steve
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62S written on the back pad... ?
-Steve
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Terrific. Looks like 625 to my untrained eyes.
What's the chassis number again? Might have something to do with that. Might not...
--DD
#377 (9140430377)
-Steve
Now that my front trunk is pretty and super clean, might as well put it to work hauling some flat tires. Doh...
-Steve
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BTW - that is an OEM front trunk seal that replaced the super garbage repro seal. It is MUCH better.
-Steve
I've put another 1000 miles on him or so now.
After some evening cleanup, I drove the car the first time without the intake airbox and WOW that's really loud. But this isn't my "loud/fast" 914, so I put it back on.
I tried to make a comparison video of no airbox vs with airbox, but it didn't really turn out - you can't tell a difference on the video. But regardless, here is a short video of some 914-6 2.0 sounds:
With airbox:
http://youtu.be/sbuZiksBq0k
It really does sounds about 3x faster than it is!
-Steve
NICE!
Gorgeous car, looks and sounds perfect!
Will have to go thru your thread and get more inspiration. Hope your little guy loves it.
will have to send you a few PMs once I get back on the reassembly horse
Paul
Yeah great job Steve. The color is so rich. It looks like candy. Well worth the investment. Who painted it again?
nice sound
Love that paint !
Thanks!
> Who painted it again?
Collisions Plus in Escondido, CA. They do mostly new cars & collisions, but also always seem to also have 1-3 vintage cars being worked on. They were recommended to me by European Motorsports (a mechanic in Vista, CA). I'm pretty happy with things and will be bring my orange car in for some work.
Having said that, (a) the rear trunk has some very small pin holes in sections of the paint and isn't as smooth as the other panels and (b) there are some new rock chips in sections that doesn't seem like it should have chipped that easily.
They have been pretty standup guys and are taking the car on Monday to fix a couple of those issues. And to paint the Mahles.
-Steve
Nice Dynamat job. I am planning to have my done the same way- cover all of the cockpit and then I want to do the inside of the doors too.
I finally got around to replacing the 3.5" ID 100# springs with an adjustable collar with 2.5" ID 100# springs.
Maybe I'm getting old, but I really like how a fairly stock 914 handles, which is why I stuck with the 100# springs. Car has:
- all new suspension rubber bushings/etc (Elephant I think)
- stock front torsion bars
- 100# rear springs
- Bilstein shocks/struts
- 19mm Tarrett front sway bar
- 185/65 P4 tires
- fairly high ride height
And I think it just rips. Comfy (as far as 914s go), corners almost perfectly flat, and the grip can really exceed anything that I probably should be doing on public roads. Or, again, maybe I'm just getting old.
When I did this, I also wanted to raise the back a little (3/8" or so) because it looked a little off. New ride height is in photos below.
With these relatively soft/stockish springs, what is surprising is the left rear corner will drop about 1/2" (a lot!) when I sit in the car (6'6" 270 lbs). So it's not exactly corner balanced, but I did set the ride height even on a left/right basis when I had about 270 lbs of big rocks in the drivers seat.
-Steve
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That is my fav color for a 914.
> That is my fav color for a 914.
I like it, but I think it's my 4th favorite 914 color.
1 Signal Orange
2 Olympic Blue (never owned one)
3 Adriatic Blue (never owned one)
4 Irish Green
-Steve
Most every original Irish green car I've seen has had a crappy color change. Usually some red or white. The wheels and bright work set the IG off.
Thanks.
I suppose my #5 is Ivory. That is a good color.
Black is my least favorite, then silver.
-Steve
What a great looking car. Awesome job on it. I'm jealous.
Paint and the Gas burners look stunning !
Beautiful. I know you are proud....
Boy that is NICE. GOOD JOB! Love the euro lenses and absent side markers!! And love those wheels on that car!
I thought I recognized some of those pictures as being from my home town...Anyway you did a beautiful job on your 14. Really turned out nice. Great Job.
Steve, great job. Beautiful 6. Happy Motoring!
Well done !
Beautiful.
Just a spectacular looking Six.
I guess its never gonna see rain... no windshield wipers!
I would put a driver's side assem and nut in the front trunk with a 13mm wrench. Like a box of chocolates...
Thanks for the compliments.
> I guess its never gonna see rain... no windshield wipers!
Actually that's just one of items still on the todo list. And yes, now the undercarriage is super dirty and I basically feel compelled to tear the car apart again.
He actually saw some light rain the other night with the top off - my 7yo daughter loved it.
-Steve
I stand corrected.
I think doing the the Siskyous in May with no wipers is a little risky. Positive on that one. The weather can go sideways quickly on the Oregon side.
> The torsion bars holding the engine lid up should be black not body color
Really? Are all 914s that way or just the sixes? I've never really noticed before, but I think my orange car (1974 914-4) has orange bars there too.
You have any photos to share?
But the rear trunk torsion bars are body color, right?
I guess I'll add that to my list of crimes against humanity I've committed. I suppose at some point we are all some future owners DPO. Someone, sometime in the future is going to open that engine lid and start swearing about some hack (me) couldn't take the time to paint the torsion bars the right color.
I actually found another one this weekend that I can't believe I've never noticed - this car has a late dash in it! I knew it was replaced in the 80s sometime, and the PO had notched the late dash slightly so the glove box would still open all the way. I've crawled all over this car and interior, and I never really thought to look and just noticed it this weekend.
-Steve
Weird. Not sure why I never thought of that. They do all appear to be black.
EDIT/UPDATE: this does appear just to be bars for -4 lids.
-Steve
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Sixes were body color....well all of mine are.. not repainted..
picture is rgalla9146
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The battle lines have been drawn!!!
-Steve
Hmmm... another quick search for just 914-6 engine lids does look they should be body color.
The silver photo is from a nice restored six, the orange one is from an unrestored supposedly never repainted original six.
-Steve
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Very interesting.
Here is a photo scanned from a 1993 European Car magazine of the 5,600 mile willow green 914-6.
IIRC both my '70 1.7 and my Dad's '70 914-6 are body color.
Both of my 70 Sixes were body color. One SignalOrange and the other Irish Green. My '71, with original paint still in the engine compartment, were body color, albeit chipped up pretty good.
My '70 six is body color; light ivory.
I went through some photos of sixes that I looked at purchasing in the past and found most were painted at some time body color during a repaint. Not sure what they were originally.
I did find one that was black, but not sure if they painted them black them selves.
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interesting thread
- lots of nice pictures
- lots of different opinions on originality, etc
obviously the repaint as acquired was crummy at best
some folks want you to keep it absolutely 100 point oem to maximize it at six figures
others want you to ditch the Marelli, etc - which means it is no longer a 100 point oem Parade Concours car
is there anyone here who will really PAY six figures for it when it is finished? ??
?
Here is 2 1970 4 banger engine lids and guess what the torsion springs are body color also...yes they are both Irish Green...I also measured the diameter of the spring and the -4 painted ones and the -6 painted ones are the same diameter.
I suspect when they changed the rain trey they needed a bit heftier spring..
So the myth of -6 having lighter torsion springs is almost correct , except that all the early 914's have lighter torsion springs...solved [attachmentid=541329]
AA's willow green 914-6 is a 71 , I have seen another 71 -6 and 2 -4's that have black torsion springs...
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I brought the car into European Motorsports a couple weeks ago because I just couldn't get the carbs to work well. It was running "ok", but it seemed like throttle response was really poor, flat spots in the middle, etc. I'm not sure what happened because when the engine was first built (~5k miles ago) it was running really well.
Anyways, after two trips there (argh), two sets of new spark plugs, and increasing the venturis from 27mm to 30mm and jets from 105 to 120, it's a whole new car. Running much better and just rips all the way to 7k. Vrooom.
While it was there they thought both rear wheel bearings were noisy. I didn't really notice anything, but since I had the WCR trip to Oregon coming up, I didn't want to risk it and took it apart.
I'm glad I did, the passenger side was totally shot, so I just decided to replace both. I honestly can't think of any other wear component that I didn't replace during this entire rebuild and have been kicking myself for not replacing these while the car was apart. Good news is everything came apart pretty easily.
-Steve
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I know you're "supposed" to press the arm into the bearing (not the bearing into the arm), but I don't have any fancy bearing tools/jigs and could never really get that to work.
With a hacked together wooden control arm support though, the bearing still presses in pretty easily (IMO). Just start it with a rubber mallet, and then make sure you press everything in while the bearing is level (see red level on top).
-Steve
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I'm not sure why I'm so anal retentive about restoring and cleaning everything while assembling things, and then proceed to actually drive it. Everything is so much dirtier and just worn looking than it was just 5k miles ago. Oh well - I suppose I can just put on more miles now.
-Steve
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Front calipers really take a beating.
-Steve
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And an artsy shot with my super dusty and pissed off orange car wondering why he isn't being worked on. Sorry Orange 914...
-Steve
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Love your recessed floor jack !
Spacious garage is to die for as well !
Love that car! Oh, so the orange Six does not feel left out, if I had another Six it would be flared and signal orange like my 1st Six was - color not flares.
I have to meet Steve one of these days because that is the same lift set-up that is going in my garage too. Maybe instead of being a twin I was a triplet and Steve was separated from us????
CDI box died on the way home from Oregon. That was less fun.
When it died, the CDI was still making a whining noise (it's supposed to), but it was a little different and louder. But given I had confirmed everything else seemed fine, I ordered a replacement and it worked. Vrooom.
PartsKlassik puts new electronics in the old box:
https://www.partsklassik.com/p-1508-cdi-box-3-pin-refurbished-rpm-7100.aspx
-Steve
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And it gave me a chance to clean out the hell hole. A leaf had fell down there!!!
-Steve
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How close to home did you get before the box quit? Sorry about the leaf.
Does the new cdi whine? I got a rblt cdi. Works great and all, but dead silent. I want my whine back!
No, new CDI is dead silent. I honestly don't miss the whine.
Here is my favorite photo from the WCR that someone took of me (sorry, I forgot your name!). This is what happens with stock rear springs (100#)!
-Steve
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Zoomed and paint.net oil painting effect...
-Steve
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Awesome Pic!
I thought about fitting some bigger tires... (Rally 914?)
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The best of both worlds!! Love your orange car too!!
Yeah, I still love your car.
Stopped on the way to work and was playing with the drone.
-Steve
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Nice pictures, looks like a lot of fun. Hope you can make it to Mammoth for this year's WCR.
I love taking pics there over Swami's
Car is looking good!
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