I wanted to pull the studs from a transmission case so I wouldn't poke my eye out with the darn things and while it wears the magnesium it also shows when there isn't any really left in the threads. there - the excuses, version 1.
So I got 1 bolt and 1 nut and set the lathe for stun, er taper cut.
The nut and the bolt are tapered so there is a countersink in the large nut and a fly-head screw look to the bolt. BTW the nut is a loose fit over the bolt - they aren't matched.
While I was at it I drilled straight into the top of the bolt to allow for thread tapping.
Off the lathe, the hole in the top of the bolt was tapped to fit the stud - this was 8 mm, but I am gunning for 911 head studs eventually. I used a slotting wheel on the angle grinder to make an X cut down the length. Then I added a nut that does fit the bolt. Whoops, didn't go down far enough so another loose nut was added as a spacer. This is what it looked like in action.
Unfortunately I pinned a nut to allow for wrenching so it doesn't come apart and the pix aren't so great, but here is the stud.
You know you can buy that from Snap-On ?
You made a collet style stud remover. Only about $400 from SnapOn (unit + thread)
Nice!
One way I have done it and worked great (suggested by another 914world member):
Take a nut for the stud you want to extract.
using a hacksaw, cut through one side of the nut along the bolt axis.
Leave the other side of the nut intact.
Thread the "sliced nut' over the stud & clamp with vise grips.
Since the nut is sliced down one side, it will compress over the threads.
If you want the tool to be permanent, weld the nut onto the vise grips, then cut it all the way through.
Two nuts tighten agianst each other works good too.
I do have the old snap-on stud and dowel remover, way better than the one they sell now IMHO.
Like you siad it only took an hour to make, not bad
Looks good! Didja' heat-treat the collet?
Group buy?
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