I left 914 ownership when my black V8 powered car burned in the Walmart parking lot some 2 years ago. I've been driving a Mercedes CL65 AMG as a replacement, but it's time to return.
I'm trying to make a deal on a project car being built in Orange County Ca. and hope to get the deal done soon.
The MB is nice but nothing is quite like a 914. Surely the new project is going to have more than 4 cylinders but less than 12 like the MB.
Crossing my fingers !
Hopefully I can get the deal done ! His build was to use the complete 996 front and rear suspension, from the cradle /sub-frame etc.
Is that common ? My old black v8 car had early 911 brakes but thats about it. Looks like everything fits nicely. The engine is a LS1 using a G-50, 5 speed. My old car used a 930 4 speed and it took everything my old school SBC could dish out fine.
Is the G-50 built to handle 400 fp/torque ? The quality of the framing, welding and execution is way above my pay grade. My ideas areOK but my execution sucks We will be getting together over the weekend. Here is a picture of the car, sorry its still very raw at this stage. IMO you can'really see how well things are done from the photo.
wow very ambitious
WOW! Looks like a project, but a cool one. How fast can you get it together?
Wow!!
Thats an awesome build!
That could seriously take years to finish though...
Headers go forwards then turn back??
The picture shows how the 996 suspension bolts into the custom sub-frame and uses the 996 side wheel base as well. That means among other things the use of factory parts like axles. There are shims set in place to raise or lower the body.The front is set up the in the same fashion.
I'm sure it will be in the garage a very long time !
I think JRust is parting with a steel flared LS1 project if this one seems to ambitious.
Oh my! THat looks to be an incredible build. That will be one serious car when it gets finished. Good luck with the deal.
Oh Dear... what will the neighbors say?
That there is a $100000 914. Well, $50K if the labor is free.
Don't talk about noise.thank god that nightmare is over. my new neighbors are great. .yeah it's ambitious but the really hard work is done. I don't care about labor whats the difference work on 1 car you work on another. going to meet with the owner now.
I am happy to say the deal got done !!! Here is a shot of the engine bay from another view. The flairs at the rear are all welded up and look very nice. I like the gt flairs but for me this style is what I am most fond of. I have a lot of work ahead of me but am happy to say my neighbors are great !!!! Theres no issues where I am now ! I just hope I can continue to keep with the build standard the p.o. had. The pictures don't at all show the quality craftsmanship done by the p.o. Way above my fabrication ability. HST I did pay a lot for the car considering it's a long way from running.
Here is a picture of the shift linkage and the rear trans mount. The linkage uses a single rod I think just as the 911 does. Seems to work well.
Just don't go to walmart with this one....
More pictures please!
Wow congrats! That is one sweet looking project. That suspension work will be killer once it's roadworthy again. Absolutely great way to get back to the madness
Awesome man, nice to have you back. The wide-body look is cool. Reminds me of the Rabbit with the 928 engine that was widened a few inches.
Attached image(s)
I got the car home was a long day. Here is a shot of the front end. you can see a little of the 996 front suspension and power steering rack.
A quick video of the car in my garage !!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRuOSpmvkIA
Here is a view of the rear suspension, I'm now looking over every nut and bolt.
Awesome!
That's the kind of project I need.
Get that thing running!!!
I have decided to remove the single bar shifter and go with a cable unit. I've seen a unit sold by a few vendors and they all look the same as to one sold by Cableshif.com.
Has anyone used any of there shifters ? BTW, they need to hire a photo guy the product is the shifters not the transmissions !!!!
You can get a cable shift out of a junk yard that will work great. I thought you were using a G50? Isn't that a cable shift tranny? Guess I need to read through your drivetrain info again. The boxer setup would work great. From shifter back is damn near perfect. Right length on the cables.
Wow that is an awesome project! Can't wait to see it done...
You might want to tape up those intake ports on the motor before you get too much junk in your motor... or drop a nut in there. I'd probably turn the motor over by hand a couple times too, to make sure the previous owner didn't drop anything in there either.
I agree with the above comment! ^^^ and yes, while this is no doubt a lot of work ahead it looks like a project with an amazing foundation!
I would personally go for installing those Z06 heads, especially if you already have them. That motor takes very well to modifications and I don't think factory Z06 heads would be excessive relative to reliability. Either way... oodles of power!
Just find a 2005-2008 Cayman S or Boxster S, 6 speed. You won't have to flip it and the shifting R&D is already done. I think the starter is in the right place (or close).
That's what I did...
EDIT it comes with 108mm axle flanges that mate with 911/930 CV's
Ooooo... what he said! ^^^
The Caymon S transmission, is it as robust as the G-50 ? How about the bolt pattern and price ?
The Cayman S is a GETRAG 466. Plenty stout. You would need a new adapter but you would not have to run it upside down. I got mine for $1000 shipped to my door. Most on ebay go for around $3000. What is the G50 worth? Sell it.
I see, nice to see things bolt up !! You got yours using Ebay - UK ? Interesting way. I see most USA G-466 units are around 22 to 29 hundred bucks. I don't want to get everything together and have it not work correctly. Add a few K and things work great, I've got to go that way !!!! Time to make more money
Egads, John ... I must have missed the thread about your car burning up
Nice new project
I see you relocated too.
The Kennedy adapter for the Boxster transaxle to LS is $2k without a clutch kit. You can use the stock clutch set up from the boxster or you can go with a aftermarket clutch. Kennedy gets $1k for the clutch and pressureplate .
You will also need a LS small high torque starter.
If I was you I'd keep the G50 it is a far stronger transaxle.
The shifter set up on your car looks like its well made and will work great. Go look at the Ultima and GT40 kit car sites. They all use G50 transaxles and have some great shifter set ups.
Bob
I have the axles for the G-50, will they work with the G-466 ?
Getting the thing blasted soon, Who do you guys use ?
I don't personally care which transmission you decide on. Here is some info on the G-466. This is the same tranny that is used in the AWD platform too. It must be able to handle some torque...
The POlet me borrow his rotisserie, this sure makes it easier to prep !!!!!
Working on the front flairs
The garage is getting some use !
I sent out all the suspension out to be soda blasted.
I finely got my car epoxy coated, did it myself and will never do it again. Used Por-15 and its messy. The area outlined in red is where the PO added some nice framing. The quality of the work is clearly better than I could have ever done. That's the reason I bought this project along with the 996 suspension. Got a long way to go !!!!
Where did you get that lift?
Rick,
I got the lift from an online equipment co. about 2 years ago. It was around $ 2200
It works nice and moves around the garage on wheels quite easily.
I had all my 996 suspension parts media blasted and now I'm painting them this color.
Lots more to do ! They came from blasting a real flat aluminum color, just as I'm posting I thought instead of using an aluminum color paint maybe just a clear coat ?
I will try that before I paint anymore parts !
Don't know if this is the same lift but I just saw this the other day and it looks the same.
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/6000-lb-mobile-single-column-lift-p-19144.aspx
Where in OC are you? Id love to drop by and see this thing in the flesh!
Ya aches and pains are not much fun but for now just keep on keeping on !!!!
More progress picks, painted up the suspension parts (may change the color or just add some ascents in the form of stripes along the casting lines).
I managed to put the suspension, rotors and tires back on the project. Now I can move the car around.
My wife's car needs some work and we all know how that goes. Truthfully I bought a spare car just for her to drive when needed. Its a 1990 Maxima with only 75k miles and looks like new. I was so lucky to have serviced the car for years and the owner just turned 90 and gave up driving.
I have the suspension cranked up much higher now just to make it easy to get to things. I really don't know where its going to sit and need to decide on rear springs. Again, I have a lot of work to do
Damn
So DAMN cool though! Following this thread closely. Incredible potential
Here is a picture of the steering rack installed. The 996 mounting point was in-useable. The PO I bought the project from a few months ago created new attachment points using the same castings. He did a fantastic job lining up the rack
and welding in the attachment points. Way Way Way over my skill level. I just dream of being able to do this type of work.
Once again I have a ton of Work to do !
Surely need more work on the front fenders LOL
Still fitting parts, got the rack in and the steering wheel. I have now the ability to move the car around, that's good since I don't have much room in the garage.
I want you to get bored of this project so I can swoop in and take it off your hands...
Making more progress, starting to work on the engine. I've decided to leave the engine stock for the time being. I'm going to run the factory cam and heads. Sorting things will keep me busy and having extra HP will only get me in trouble. I didn't realize as well changing out a cam correctly is no small chunk of change.
Nice project!
Niklas
Putting things together, still have some parts to buy
WOW!!!!
What a cool project. This car must be a blast to drive with this drivetrain/suspension :-)
Working on things here and there, here is a fan shroud I built. Its going on a double-Pass radiator. The fans are going to be 2 (12") Spal units for a total of just over 6,000 cfm. I read that and still don't think its a correct rating but I'm going to call Spal and see what they say.
By running dual fans you will also be able to run them at two stages like some of the suby guys are doing. there was a thread recently on how to wire them up to have a low and high speed fan.
I just picked up 2, 12 inch fans and as we suspected the 3k cfm was an incorrect value. I bought Spal # 30103202 which are rated at 1800 cfm each. That rating is a general value based on zero drag so to speak. I shopped around and found them as high as $225 each but found them on line at THMotorsports for $150 each. Expensive units for sure but Spal are quality parts.
Having the support braces welded in make it a bit harder to fit the radiator. I ended up making my radiator shroud and insolated mounts. Below is a few pictures.
I just picked up 2, 12 inch fans and as we suspected the 3k cfm was an incorrect value. I bought Spal # 30103202 which are rated at 1800 cfm each. That rating is a general value based on zero drag so to speak. I shopped around and found them as high as $225 each but found them on line at THMotorsports for $150 each. Expensive units for sure but Spal are quality parts. Running as mentioned before using a 2 speed system is a great idea. Low speed fans are much quieter for sure.
Having the support braces welded in make it a bit harder to fit the radiator. I ended up making my radiator shroud and insolated mounts. Below is a few pictures.
OH $hit !!!
Waiting for my cooling fans to arrive so I mounted the Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump. I used the same pump in my (sold) V8 914 and it worked great. In this case the steering system was built by German engineers (996) not by me in my 1 car garage
love this build. I promise I will come down soon, no promises that I wont drool on the car though
I'm sorry to hear about your black car burning. That had to suck.
You completely scored on this car WOW! Somehow it's all working out just fine.
My fans arrived and I cut out the holes in the aluminum shroud. The two large relays
I'm going to use one for the 2 fans and 1 to run the power steering pump. I have to wire them into a new part of the cars electrical system. I'm going to setup a heavy power distribution center up front. Since I don't have room to place the battery in front I'm going to run a large long battery cable from the battery in the rear up front close to the fans and power steering pump relays. I want to make sure there's no or little amperage loss feeding these high electrical consumer's. I chose a 140 amp CS alternator to power the car. The rest of the car is going to use LED lights to lessen the load on my 45 year old wiring. Considering what happened to my Black 914 V8 car which burned up due to an electrical fire.
This is going to rule! Nice Job.
Started wiring up the fans and P/S pump. Using 1 gauge battery cable and 10 gauge for the fans and last 9 gage for the P/S pump. The 250 amp fuse is a bit too big but I found a 100 amp to install later. Those relays are good for 80 amps or so.
I found an extra Mercedes fan resistor set laying around the garage. Its a quality unit and will use it as a low speed cooling fan option. I going to mount it on the other side of the fan shroud. It will likely need some cooling and I would hate to place my hand on it when its doing its thing.
Question,
My fans and electric power steering pump are wired as seen in the previous pictures have a main fuse (for now 100 amp) should I fuse the fans and pump using individual fuses ? For example, keep the 100 amp main and use a fuse for the fans and one for the pump ?
I would fuse them separately for sure. You want to know if your fans aren't running, the PS you will notice right away.
yes that's a good point ! I still have a ton of work to do !!!!!
Installed some fuses to the fans & power steering systems. Good advise considering my last V8 914 had a electrical fire.
I found some nice hose 1.25" & 1.50" for only 6 dollars a foot. Its Called ValuFlex GS It says good to 212 degrees a bit low but I'm sure in reality likely fine for much more. My build is designed to keep coolant temps below 200 degrees at al times.
That's Quite a 914.
More Progress
I decided to run larger coolant hoses this time as I may build a much bigger engine. Now just a 400 hp unit. the lines are 1 1/2 & 1 1/4 and I had to open up the center tunnel as I'm running them in the car.
The pedal setup is Wilwood and I adapted the Corvette DBW to the Wilwood set up.
We will see how it works, after I was told the Corvette calibration is sensitive and it may be hard to modulate the power. The large black cable is to feed the electrical stuff around the radiator, running that through the tunnel as well. Its getting crowded in the area. Still need fuel, brake and other electrical to fit. OH A/C lines
Here's a look at the drive belt, I didn't think the tensioner would fit with the Toy-Jet coolant manifold but got lucky
Damn.....
Did not read the whole thread, good to see you back, but damn...
Think about hard lines in the tunnel....stainless tubing or some other metal tubing....might be easier to replace the rubber lines if they are only on either end.
I had hoses in the tunnel on my first conversion car. It will get very hot in the cabin unless you insulate the lines.
I do like the location. I have been thinking about raising the tunnel, creating a void under the car to run hoses.
thats why he is going to have A/C
Since I sampled the pix some time ago,you have done an incredible amount of work.And just as I have envisioned it.those wide fenders look great.
An inspiration to us all,proof in metal.Integrating the latemodel part#'s is ingenious.You are way ahead of me.
I messed around with it a little recently in my own efforts to evolve the 914.
Some radical raising of the trunkline,to receive 944-like glass/plexi.
Here is a picture of the engine and the water pump manifold I picked up. It is a pain to install because of real hard to get to fasteners but worth it.
The car is about 5 inches wider in the back. I would like to add a more modern
type tail light assembly but haven't seen anything yet.
It seems the latest rage is the euro look,with the amber lens.
A Volvo taillight assy is similar to the 944 lens,wider+taller.
Some VW tails are also eurostyle.
I'm surprised it's only 2.5"/s,looks good though.
Man,the work is terrific.
Belay those electrical gremlins.
What is the standard solution for heat and defrost in a water cooler conversion car?
Its getting time to wire the harness in. Yes I did forget the ring gear and had to remove the clutch and install the gear. I working on the fuel system as well. Got some brake lines as well. Installed the transmission and the starter. The engine is almost ready to go. I will likely go with Patrick Motor sports cable shifter but not sure.
This is the only picture I have of my 65 convertible Corvair I had 34 years ago. It had a Crown V8 kit. You can see under the front bumper, aluminum air ducting to the radiator. It was a beautiful car but not the least bit sorted.
Working on the hydraulic system
Above you can see I found some metal tube with a 9/16' hex on the I/D. Really just cut down some harbor freight sockets. I need 8 peace's to weld into position. it holds the brake hardware where I want it.
Here is the front junction two points ya can see the other is going inside under the fuel tank.
another shot of the hex hold down
Believe it or not I'm moving again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My mom (85) needs caring for so my wife and I are moving in, its about 10 miles away but has a big garage
I'm renting my house to my nephew and his soon to be wife. They are good people and will care for the house better than I did LOL.
Got to move all my stuff but its worth it IMO
that wiring picture hurts my brain.
Here is a good picture of the rear set-up. Still need to get the rear springs.
I found the link that talks about the pinion bearings in the o1E. Sounds like this individual works on them?
Is the 968, the same as the Porsche Boxster S trans?
Post #42
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-powertrain-transaxles/32549-audi-2-7tdi-transaxle-3.html
Post #6 doesn't sound too good either?
I don't want a trans that has inherited a butt load of problems........if that is the case?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/392387-01E-transaxle-how-much-power-can-they-hold-600rwhp
Starting on the solid shift linkage.
Been installing the wiring harness, I really wanted to have the fuse box close to the driver and not under the dash. The Ls1 PCM is also close to the driver seat. Both will be mounted in the center between the seats. The idea is to build a steel frame center console to house hoses, brake lines etc. Still have a ton of work to do !
John...good progress here with your build ! I didn't know of your black car's destruction BUMMER.
First thing we did on our Cayenne 914 v8 build is take every oe wire out. Re-wiring will be track car use only, so not as many circuits going back in. We will park our 914s parallel at Cars+Coffee one weekend
Marty
I had to remake the upper shock mounts. Some sizing and welding still needed but they will do. I'm adding an extra support directly over the loaded area just to be safe. Braking one of these at 100 mph would jack your day up.
Nice build
I've been working on the inside of my house for the last 5 months, haven't done anything with the project. I will be getting back at it in December ( really miss the car stuff). I told myself finishing the house is in no way more important than the 914 but can't tell the wife that LOL.
I've been working on my house for the last 8 months had to put the car on hold, well I'm still working on the house but the 914 is in the mix again.
Below is a picture of my rear re-don shock mounts. The older version just didn't make me feel very safe. There's a lot riding on the mount holding up so I used some trailer hitch material should hold up well. I'm likely going to connect the end of the mount to something to keep it from bending up even a little.
I've been away from my car far to long !!!! Gentlemen start your engines !
To refresh here is a picture of the rear suspension
working on my transmission mount. The aluminum mount was well made but I felt it wasn't quite strong enough and got in the way of the cable shifter I'm going to use. My welding is strong but ugly. No worries hours of tedious grinding will make it look a bit less ugly LOL.
I think this mount will hold up well and give the chassis a hand as well.
Quit fooling around and get this car finished!
Or, get bored of it and sell it to me.
Marvelous.
It's coming along.
Push.
I am just speechless at the skills being displayed in this build. I agree with Mike, geez I am going to want that car when it is done!
I'm pretty sure I took no part in making the dies for these components.
I have done dies for transaxles,transfercases and transmissions.
Many others too.
How many?
Hundreds.Since1973.
The largest was for a diesel engine block,heavy trucks and marine use.
The cover was a 4340 casting of 60T.Shoe was 75T.
Big machines for big parts.Skoda HBM Heidenhain.
The smallest a simple key+pin of 1/8"dim.
A lot of aerospace work.
Many heavy pressure vessels.10" wall thickness.
It's been fun.That's what I take from it,something new every day.
http://www.cimsystem.com/
CroMo weldment,a centrifugal turbine housing.
90K before machining.DFU.
No mercy on these parts.
I've used many different cadcams,I found this is the most easily utilized and gouge free.
Some of the shite out there is cumbersome.pita oops.That don't cut it.
The coolant is SwissLube,a former employer in '06 had the entire shop staff take a training course
on the proper use and maintenance of the stuff.Didn't help,the place smelled like a cesspool.
This machine however is sweet and clean like the customer expects.
Years ago it was put to me by a flier w 20K hrs in mil types,old guy Col..
"If you can't maintain the coolant,what else don't you maintain?"
Yeah,sour gas compressor.
Inconel and wear resistant stainless turbine wheels.
All high temp and abrasive resistant.
How I make hay to play.
Heidenhain surface display in zoom+toolpath hide mode.
Why I'm analyzing it.
The part is symmetrical but the Cam algorithim had done this,wtf?
1 hr later,Part model granularity of tessellated surfaces generated this deke.
Customer's engineering supplied the Cad model,so we went with it,notified the designer,Phd. E. Eng.
Caution at all times,no mercy parts.(Don't Fuck Up)D.F.U..
We stamp this on the paperwork you have to endorse before starting,a company disclaimer.
If you fuck up,you Will pay.So yeah,intense pressure,ulcer kind.
After this little detour off the path,I wanted to say something about the structural integrity of a high powered vehicle.You can see some results on "crash-boom-bang".
A lot of sniffing in some corners about the Pontiac Fiero,but the reality is the car was designed to survive an 80mph rollover and passed that test.
Therefore a car that has the power to do 200 must be reinforced to withstand a much higher load capacity.
Much different shock and torsional loading resistance is mandated.Stiff + metal=heavy,so the supercar makers have adopted aerospace tech like 20-30 yrs ago.
Seeing here a trickle of composite parts becoming available is encouraging,the more the better.
Rollcages without side barriers and bottom members don't pass the threshold a nascar cage demands.A saunter into the trees at speed is no little thing.
(Thats why I enjoy the "Nurb" videos)Really,a capsule similar to the Unlimited Hydroplane racers is what is needed,keeping in mind that's water they are hitting.
Add the torsional stiffness needed and now you have a very heavy 4130 tubular structure,needing more power.
A full complement of airbags and Hans restraints will keep the organs in the right place.Add the weight of the original sheetmetal and now it's porky and slow.
Some thought has to go into building it just to survive.So I'm all for the composite tubs n bulkheads.The tooling requirements is the tipping point,vacuum assisted infusion and
or autoclaved means expensive equipment and expensive cnc time to machine the molds.F1 tech is really aero tech different/same application and really not cheap.
In the final analysis,steel tube cages and composite peripheral structures is the way to go.The use of ally monocoque outside the cage is also a lightweight method.
The main thing is to have fun as you're building and be able to answer the question correctly."What are you building?"
The wrong response is "My coffin".
Interesting information,
I'm trying to map out a structure to keep the engine from being push in my lap. Its nice to have total access but I need to have a cage built around the driver and passenger. Its going to be heavier but its important. I can only go so far but really I'm a sub 100 mph kind of guy. My Benz at 680 hp will jump to that speed with ease but at 4400 lbs. dry its a turd looking for a tree to hit. I'm going to farm out some things on this car unlike my other V8 914.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=nascar+rollcage&biw=1440&bih=712&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=9UyJVKf4OpHjsAT8tYL4BA&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ
With a cage like this and the power possible with that block The Targa Newfoundland would be a gas.
Some of those stages I saw were downright dangerous without a substantial stiffening of the car.
Down a rocky slope into mature trees at 180mph would be a game ender.
An 800 hp v8 could get to speeds way above that on the long straights,Mulsanne like.
Pump it up and now you're into Can Am performance.
Some insight as to how great the risk was in the bad old days.
Lister-Bell
Moving along,
welded a little box to house the computer and mini fuse box for the engine.
Working on the pedals, adapted the DBW to the gas pedal.
Ran the battery cable, from the starter through the center tunnel to the bus under the trunk lid. I want to have a good source of amperage for the electric p/s pump and the fans.
I'm replacing all the wheel bearings, seems the rear hub is not a base 996 / Boxster. The bearings in the rear are larger because the base ones I ordered are too small at the rear. The part number on the hub say its a 4, 4s or Gt3 type. I have to get the correct parts AGAIN !!!!!
You should also find a way to insulate the coolant lines. My first conversion had them in the tunnel. It tends to get pretty warm in the cabin.
Are you concerned about the coolant lines vibrating against any of the metal in the tunnel and eventually wearing out?
You plan to have a removable top for the tunnel to inspect things once in a while?
For heat, you may want to look at what NASA uses in the high end foil and reflective material, sorry to say I believe the best stuff is gold.....
Rich
So I got all the wiring in and decided to turn the ign on and see if the scanner would light up and show data. It did, I cranked the engine (Fuel pump off) and didn't see any crank/rpm signal. I checked power input to the injectors but found no action being done to by the pcm to provide ground to the injectors or coils for that matter. I did notice the scanner screen flipping around and then bailing out switching screens to some type of default restart screen. Seeing no crank reference I looked at the crank sensor and wiring found them to be fine. I cranked the engine with the crank sensor Unplugged and the scanner screen stayed steady.
I ordered a new crank sensor and hope that fixes the problem.
Turns out it was the CAMSHAFT sensor, both a bit confusing as both are far away from the camshaft. Newer versions are different and have a cam sensor on the timing chain cover. Ordered the cam sensor *&((((*&&^&^k
LOL,
I had the cam and crank sensors connectors switched. LOL
So I finely got the engine running I don't have an exhaust system, gauges or coolant as yet. I bought a water manifold from "Toy-Jet" and the dam thing leaks.
Its the first design unit so I have to fix it or send it back. I tested the cooling system using compressed air to be sure it was sound. That "toy-Jet" piece of crap.
The picture doesn't really show how poorly the part is welded and manufactured, no wonder this design has been scraped. Can't wait to here what they have to say.
Sorry guys but this really pisses me off !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Those Knuckleheads at Toy-jet, 2 days no one answers the phone or calls back
Still no one home at "ToyJet" So I decided to fix it myself. To be sure I had to set up an off the car test gig.
I don't have a good aluminium welder but I only need to fill a very small area. Looks like its good to go now. I filled the manifold with compressed air 30 psi and no bubbles I'll keep trying to contact "ToyJet" just to see if anyone is around. Just had a clutch line made up, I'll post some picks soon. I was also able to replace the rear wheel bearings ( Carrera 4s ) they are larger & twice the price than the base 996 & Boxster.
Its getting close
Welded the hole (second Pic ) up but it still leaked, so I ground out that patch and turned up the heat on the welder and nuked that little hole, no more leak
I got the engine running today and it all looks good. Still have a ton of work
to do.
I still haven't heard a thing from "Toy jet" they are a joke
...check your PM !
Marty
As you know I have a large opening behind the seats, here is a progress picture of my firewall. I'm trying to make it sturdy as well as have a good seal. Going to add some more structure and do a lot of grinding. Just waiting on my shifter should be here in a week or so .
Still working on the details, reworking the computer wiring harness and moving the ECM to the rear of the car. Replaced the old relays with a newer . The telecom wire was solid and I needed a fine wire to make it work so I dropped the idea. Rounded the firewall opening and added a gasket.
Dude ...
I went for a short drive around the neighbourhood and mostly everything worked great. The engine seems to have a miss / popping via the exhaust valve side. I have to look into this before driving again. I may have a pushrod issue.
The trans shifted well but I was driving under 40 mph.
Another short video of the project.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANC4jJpXF4w&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share
It's all good. Everything is going to be fine.
Awesome! The craftsmanship in this car is just amazing. Congrats on the drive!
Xlnt good Stuff ! ¡
Marty
This may be the most impressive undertaking on a 914 I have ever seen. It leaves me stunned.
Looking good,a personal rocket sled.
Steady progress from determined effort,well done.
Dude
Hope you have nice neighbors now
Any updates on the 914 ?
Building a car like this is extremely labor intensive...enquiring minds want to know
Post up when you can ...
My wife and i are think about moving to Washington state (north/west area) so I am spending all my time on the house. I hope to be done with the housework soon
For the OP: Last Active 22nd August 2016 - 01:06 PM
He sold the 914..and is now busy power washing moss off of everything...ya ilved in wa for 52 years...west side...Hope all is Well.....
He's got an LS Cayman now, doing some cool stuff with it
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