Printable Version of Topic

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 15 2013, 04:18 PM

Ok so I have been driving my new 2056 with dual webers an a SVDA dizzy with electronic ignition. Timing is set at 30 btdc. It seems like when I am on the interstate the temp gauge seems to ride at about 75% of the way toward hot.

The flaps should be set correctly and the thermostat seems to be allowing the flaps to move completely. As it moves toward hot I notice a lot of pinging.

Plugs don't seem to be running hot or lean by looking at them. I am going to look at the flaps with my scope to verify the position but what to check after that?

Posted by: JimN73 Sep 15 2013, 04:51 PM

On my car, 3/4 of the way to the red part is only 180 to degrees. I used a handheld digital infrared thermometer aimed at the suppy line to my cooler and the bottom of the case. Like this one:


http://www.amazon.com/Compass-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B008347K1M/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1379285308&sr=8-21&keywords=infrared+thermometer

A thermometer built into the dipstick is probably more accurate, but I used what I had.

Posted by: eyesright Sep 15 2013, 06:00 PM

I agree that the IR thermometer is a good investment. I got mine from my local HR for about the same price. I have VDO aftermarket gauges and from the negtive feedback I've seen I wanted to calibrate them.

My oil temp after last night's drive was 210 F by the VDO gauge. The IR thermometer on the sump and the bottom of the oil filter showed the same.

I've seen here that the red zone starts at 300 F on the stock gauge. An IR thermometer will help you know where you are in the white zone. Or a dipstick thermometer...

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 15 2013, 06:39 PM

Good point! Ordered one. Will check temps.

Any thoughts on pinging? Reduce advance?

Posted by: dlee6204 Sep 15 2013, 06:50 PM

Yes, I would retard the timing a degree or two at a time to see if that helps.

Posted by: r_towle Sep 15 2013, 06:54 PM

If its pinging, you need to reduce the advance today...don't wait till you wreck something.

3 degrees to much could cause a lot of heat.

27 degrees overall advance it what the stock motor and camshaft can handle, no more.

Rich

Posted by: Krieger Sep 15 2013, 07:01 PM

Reduce the advance a few degrees or get higher octane gas. If the higher octane doesn't do it reduce the timing. If you don't do something you will destroy the motor...

Posted by: Mikey914 Sep 16 2013, 09:29 AM

SOunds kind of basic, but check the fan. Reach back and make sure the key has not sheared. That happed to my son's car.
Just a thought. But was an easy fix.

Posted by: r_towle Sep 16 2013, 09:37 AM

also, don't forget the gauges are kinda , sorta, not really accurate.

YMMV

rich

Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 16 2013, 09:41 AM

mike, have you verified that the cooling flaps are indeed fully opening when at temp?

k

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 16 2013, 12:43 PM

I had the same sender and gauge on the 1.8 and it never got hot as this. But I am going to check the temps with a thermometer.

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 16 2013, 12:45 PM

Kevin,

I did that and they seemed to be fully open when the thermostat was fully expanded. I removed the cable and verified movement and just left it off but still had high temps.

Posted by: r_towle Sep 16 2013, 12:46 PM

its a much higher compression ratio motor now.
The 1.8 was the least power, and coolest running motor of the whole lineup.

rich

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 16 2013, 03:03 PM

Did a little checking and based on the PET, while there were different gauges (based on years), there was only one sending unit 039919268. So if the 2.0 runs warmer then there would be different gauges for engines not just model years

Posted by: r_towle Sep 16 2013, 04:12 PM

My point is that the gauges are not super accurate.
You should get a heat sensing gu, point it at the car to determine the temps, and get an oil temp dipstick to see where you are when the gauge says hot.

Then you will know when to get worried per your in dash gauge.

You need to establish your new normal operating temp per that gauge.

Also, retard the timing to 27 degrees.

rich

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 20 2013, 07:34 PM

Ok so,after reducing the timing to 27 and a couple of days checking temps with my infra red thermometer it seems like when my temp gauge is at about the 75% mark the engine is about 200 to 230 F.



That seems too,warm! I am going to scope the flaps to ensure they are in the right place for max cooling.



If the flaps,are correct what next?

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Sep 20 2013, 07:40 PM

Which dizzy do you have?

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 20 2013, 07:43 PM

SVDA Hotspark. I have my original 1.8 and the 2.0 also.

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 21 2013, 05:19 AM

You can use either of 2 VDO senders but the temp range on the gauge is different.
With the OE sender the red zone is 300F and up.
I think the other sender lowers the edge of the red zone to 260.

Do you have an air/fuel meter? The wrong mixture will make the engine run hot.

Do you have an external oil cooler? IMO any engine larger than 2.0 needs a larger than stock oil cooler.

Posted by: Mblizzard Sep 21 2013, 06:26 AM

Chris - no AF gauge. I don't think I am running lean assuming that would cause more heat than running rich. If any thing I would think I am somewhat on the rich side.

I have thought about an external oil cooler as project for latter but I have not worked out what all i would need to do it right and cost effectively.

Posted by: Racer Chris Sep 21 2013, 07:52 AM

Its a misconception that lean is hot and rich is cool.
A lean mixture is preferred under light throttle conditions. The engine runs cool and gets better fuel mileage.
Mixtures near stoichiometric produce the hottest temperatures.