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Posted by: Bob L. Sep 22 2013, 11:13 AM

I don't want to hijack someone else's thread so here we are.

Yes! I read Dr. Evil's notes.

After making an adjustment to the shift linkage I lost 1st gear during a test drive. At the start of the drive it was fine getting into 1st. Sometimes a bit crunchy but "normal"

Then, after a few miles and several "stop & go's" ... stopped at a light... it turns green... go for 1st, aaand rejected. I tried a few tugs on the shifter and it was like a solid barrier. I went to 2nd and took it home.

On the way I stopped a few times and tried 1st when I had opportunity. 1 time it went in with a good amount of shoving.

That was last week.

Now after some tinkering with the linkage and replacing the shift rod U-joint bushings, it still wouldn't get 1st.


I went directly to the shifter console and I have the same problem. In and forward for 1st, Right? I can get all other gears without issue. During my "exam" this morning I was able to get 1st once with much jiggling and shoving. Once I took it out of 1st, it didn't want to go back.

There is plenty of tranny fluid. I don't know what? looks pretty clean.

Well there we are.

I really don't want to pull the trans.

Help!... again...please...

Posted by: jimkelly Sep 22 2013, 11:30 AM

FYI - 1st gear is the one to go bad first.

when transeseseses get opened, the first thing that looks bad is typically the 1st gear slider, big dollar item.

while I hope all our problems are bushings, linkage alignment, clutch adjustment -- often it is a bigger problem -- that dr evil (a real freaking doctor) can fix - trans needs rebuild.

Posted by: Razorbobsr Sep 22 2013, 12:19 PM

QUOTE(Bob L. @ Sep 22 2013, 01:13 PM)

Posted by: TROJANMAN Sep 23 2013, 05:22 PM

I didnt read the other thread, but have you tried shifting gears directly at the trans? This will tell you if it is a linkage issue, or maybe something internal.

Posted by: Bob L. Sep 23 2013, 05:51 PM

QUOTE(TROJANMAN @ Sep 23 2013, 06:22 PM)

Posted by: r_towle Sep 23 2013, 09:12 PM

At the console with no shifter rod attached?

If so, it's not super hard to remove the rear cover and replace 1st gear.

Remove the muffler and the project can be done with the transmission in the car.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 24 2013, 09:01 AM

Hey Rich, I've never tried it with the tranny in the car. Bet it is fun stacking those washers in the tail cone on the horizontal, huh?
Bob, don't be itimidated by the tranny. Order Dr. Farts CD and jump in. The water is fine.

Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 24 2013, 12:40 PM

Pelican also has an article about repairing the 1st gear synchro without removing the transmission from the car.

--DD

Posted by: Bob L. Sep 24 2013, 01:27 PM

Yes, I was using the shift input shaft directly at the console with the rod detached.

I saw the article on Pelican and I do want the good doc's video.
I'm not afraid to do it, Just the cost.

But, I don't know what I need just yet.
Could the gear itself be bad or most likely the synchro/band/slider/dog teeth.

I have heard about using a 3rd gear synchro/band.
Anybody done this?

Thanks,
Bob.

Posted by: r_towle Sep 24 2013, 04:43 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 24 2013, 11:01 AM)

Hey Rich, I've never tried it with the tranny in the car. Bet it is fun stacking those washers in the tail cone on the horizontal, huh?
Bob, don't be itimidated by the tranny. Order Dr. Farts CD and jump in. The water is fine.

Posted by: TROJANMAN Sep 24 2013, 09:29 PM

We left mine in the car when we replaced it.

It's not a how to thread, but it shows pictures of bad dog teeth and what you will need to order, and the symptoms I suffered.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=52310&hl=

Posted by: Bob L. Sep 25 2013, 10:03 AM

QUOTE(TROJANMAN @ Sep 24 2013, 10:29 PM)

Posted by: r_towle Sep 25 2013, 03:06 PM

you can do it without first gear if you have enough torque to pull away from the line in second.

If that is the case, take the easy way. stop using 1st gear and you are all done.

No need to remove it, just stop trying it.

If you want to make it go away, you need to put a bushing in its place to prevent you from shifting into gear and keep everything lined up.

There are many threads here on this adaption for the V8 guys who no longer need first gear because they have enough torque to start in second and more than enough power to break first.

rich

Posted by: Bob L. Sep 29 2013, 10:15 PM

Well I took the tail cone off .

First thing, I heard a clink as I pulled the tail cone. I thought it was just the reverse bearings, BUT NOOOOOO.......



Not a good sign. Yes that is one of the brake blocks (I believe).

Then I pulled the gear.
Take a look.





With the block out of place, the ring assembly is loose and another block is sliding around under the circlip.
I can't get the circlip off yet.
I know it's bad but, Discuss...

Posted by: Bob L. Oct 1 2013, 10:59 AM

I finally got to see under the Circlip. Does this look normal for a 901 in a 914.
It doesn't match the pics on the Pelican parts site. I was reading the article and noticed one of my stop blocks (the bottom one) looks different than the one in the pic. Mine looks smaller.

Posted by: Cap'n Krusty Oct 1 2013, 12:47 PM

There are early and late versions of the actuation pieces. I learned about them in school in 1973, so I'm guessing the changes were prior to that. I have the specs and drawings in a notebook somewhere, but it'd take days to find it, so you're on your own. BTW, 1st is different from all the rest, but I've seen 2-5 dogteeth and components used on 1st.

The Cap'n

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 1 2013, 12:52 PM

Bob, you really should get the dr's. DVD. It covers this! Both styles.

Posted by: Bob L. Oct 5 2013, 10:21 PM

Some pics from under the circlip.

As it was when the clip came off.



I think this is everything back in place.

Posted by: dangrouche Oct 6 2013, 12:22 AM

that dog teeth is toast and needs to be replaced. the inner contents of that gear you took apart is what should be in there. However, the syncro and may be need to be replaced. The syncro can be flipped over like a pancake, (which is the factory recommends) and that may give additional life to that syncro. You WILL need a new or used 1st/reverse gear, which costs $$$. This is the classic wearing out of the 1st/reverse and the syncro. If you have not had any problems between 2nd through 5th gear, then replacing the bare essentials of the 1st/reverse gear and the dog teeth, and I would bet that your tranny could be put back on the road. BAsed on that chunk of metal, this means you will need new anchor blocks as well, the upper hooked one and you might as well replace the lower symmetrical one as well.

here is a helpful link that gave me some schooling

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=18128

Posted by: Dr Evil Oct 6 2013, 08:40 AM

Yup, your block fell out probably because you have a late snap ring on your gear. That snap ring can rotate and let the little block out. The late model had bigger block that did not fall out.

I agree with Dan that you need a new set of dog teeth.

The rest I do not agree with. Your gears themselves look fine, and if they did not it would still only cost you $25 +shipping from me to replace with good used. Depending on your finances, your 1st slider is fine. You CAN replace it, but it is not 100% necessary if your budget does not allow. I also have better used ones and a nice new one if you want to go that way. I would upgrade your band and block to the new style, and I have a lot of these for you. If you want, send me your 1st gear and I will assemble it with the parts you need.