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Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 24 2013, 06:49 AM

Hello 914 World! I am a new member of the site and a new owner of a 1974 2.0l project car. I picked this car up from a great guy north of Denver that was reducing his 914 collection down to two cars.

As you can see from the pictures the car arrived in pieces. Everything appears to be in pretty good shape. The Hell Hole is solid and is almost rust free!

I am fortunate to have another 914world member "rnellums" helping to sort and rebuild the car.

I have attached a few pictures that I took yesterday when we rolled the car into it's new home.

Ray

Posted by: KELTY360 Sep 24 2013, 06:53 AM

Looks like a great starting point. Don't let it stay up on jackstands too long, they get comfortable and don't want to come back down.

Posted by: timothy_nd28 Sep 24 2013, 06:58 AM

Posted by: rick 918-S Sep 24 2013, 06:58 AM

Nice address!

Posted by: Cupomeat Sep 24 2013, 07:45 AM

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Sep 24 2013, 08:58 AM)

Nice address!

Posted by: rnellums Sep 24 2013, 08:05 AM

QUOTE(Cupomeat @ Sep 24 2013, 09:45 AM)

QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Sep 24 2013, 08:58 AM)

Nice address!

Agreed, but it appears fate says you need 2 914s...

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 24 2013, 08:43 AM

Well the "air-cooled" part shouldn't be much of a transition for you, should it? The only difference is the heads are separate on these and you aren't hanging your ass over the line when you work on one.

Posted by: pdlightning Sep 24 2013, 11:42 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 24 2013, 05:49 AM)

Hello 914 World! I am a new member of the site and a new owner of a 1974 2.0l project car. I picked this car up from a great guy north of Denver that was reducing his 914 collection down to two cars.

As you can see from the pictures the car arrived in pieces. Everything appears to be in pretty good shape. The Hell Hole is solid and is almost rust free!

I am fortunate to have another 914world member "rnellums" helping to sort and rebuild the car.

I have attached a few pictures that I took yesterday when we rolled the car into it's new home.

Ray

Posted by: Drums66 Sep 24 2013, 12:54 PM

......WELCOME....

Posted by: ChrisNPDrider Sep 24 2013, 01:27 PM

Posted by: Ferg Sep 24 2013, 01:32 PM

I recognize the delivery guy.

Hope to see it at coffee and cars soon.

Ferg

Posted by: Elliot Cannon Sep 24 2013, 03:09 PM

Welcome to 914 World. Do you work on big airplanes or little ones?

Posted by: r_towle Sep 24 2013, 04:42 PM

Are you in some way related to A&P girl?

Posted by: turk22 Sep 24 2013, 07:11 PM

Ross is a good guy to have on your team!

Good luck with the project

Turk

Posted by: hot_shoe914 Sep 24 2013, 07:16 PM

Should have just bought Betsy, would have been cheaper in the long run.

Posted by: ConeDodger Sep 24 2013, 08:25 PM

You should get out now before it's too late!

Posted by: kg6dxn Sep 24 2013, 08:31 PM

QUOTE(ConeDodger @ Sep 24 2013, 07:25 PM)

You should get out now before it's too late!

Posted by: turk22 Sep 24 2013, 08:57 PM

I'm a former A&P (many years ago).. I've found it to be absolutely no help...

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 24 2013, 09:50 PM

Thank you all for the warm welcome! I am really looking forward to the new project.

QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Sep 24 2013, 03:09 PM)

Welcome to 914 World. Do you work on big airplanes or little ones?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 24 2013, 09:53 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 24 2013, 04:42 PM)

Are you in some way related to A&P girl?

Posted by: green914 Sep 25 2013, 09:06 AM

It's going to be fun!

Posted by: SirAndy Sep 25 2013, 10:59 AM

QUOTE(turk22 @ Sep 24 2013, 07:57 PM)

I'm a former A&P (many years ago).. I've found it to be absolutely no help...

Posted by: BMITCHELL Sep 25 2013, 11:20 AM

Airframe and Powerplant FAA certified wrench

Posted by: turk22 Sep 25 2013, 01:59 PM

yep, a federally licenced Aircraft mechanic...

Posted by: boogie_man Sep 25 2013, 01:59 PM

Welcome to the madness, great foundation for a starter car....

Posted by: brant Sep 25 2013, 03:02 PM

Your in good hands with Ross
but you should also join our colorado yahoo group
welcome
brant

Posted by: Dave_Darling Sep 25 2013, 05:56 PM

QUOTE(BMITCHELL @ Sep 25 2013, 10:20 AM)

Posted by: Sleepin Sep 25 2013, 06:50 PM

QUOTE(brant @ Sep 25 2013, 03:02 PM)

Posted by: jeeperjohn56 Sep 28 2013, 03:35 PM

Welcome to the madness, look's like a good start on a body.John

Posted by: stugray Sep 28 2013, 03:53 PM

Welcome to CO (and the madness)!

Let me know if you need any parts or another car.
I have a stash of parts and a spare running car with FI.

Stu (Longmont)

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 1 2013, 01:09 PM

QUOTE(Sleepin @ Sep 25 2013, 06:50 PM)

QUOTE(brant @ Sep 25 2013, 03:02 PM)

Your in good hands with Ross
but you should also join our colorado yahoo group
welcome
brant

I agree. Even though you guys are on the wrong side of the mountains! Ross and the others over there will be a big help!

Is that Silva's old car?

QUOTE(stugray @ Sep 28 2013, 03:53 PM)

Posted by: rnellums Oct 27 2013, 12:20 AM

Update! Today, Ray and I tackled a bit of rust in the front fender. It took a bit more time than expected, but it came out looking decent!


Attached thumbnail(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 27 2013, 07:34 PM

Ross, thanks for the welding help! Next job on the task list is replacing the fuel lines that run through the tunnel. I will be giving Tangerine Racing a call tomorrow.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 26 2014, 01:35 PM

It's ALIVE!!!! After more than a year of sitting in the garage my 74 finally took it's first breath of air and came to life. I am pleased to report that after a short drive to the gas station at midnight that the neighbors didn't enjoy as much as I did that the car runs awesome and shifts amazing! I couldn't be happier!

Posted by: KELTY360 Oct 26 2014, 03:15 PM

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 26 2014, 04:17 PM

Congrats! Feels great doesn't it? You have that 914 grin going.

Posted by: rnellums Oct 30 2014, 08:03 AM

Made some progress on making the car presentable last night! The hood is just about polished up, now just need to do the trunk and doors!


Before:

Posted by: rnellums Oct 30 2014, 08:05 AM

After:

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 12 2014, 09:14 PM

Update! I sold my 2.0l drivetrain and I picked up a 2006 subaru ej253 with 50k miles on it. I plan to use an ems stinger ecu from Outfront Motorsports. Does any one know if I can bolt a throttle body off an ej251 onto my ej253 and effectively remove the drive by wire?

Ray

Posted by: Mikey914 Dec 12 2014, 09:25 PM

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 25 2013, 08:59 AM)

QUOTE(turk22 @ Sep 24 2013, 07:57 PM)

I'm a former A&P (many years ago).. I've found it to be absolutely no help...

Alright, please eduficate me, i have no clue what A&P stands for.

Google is not much help either, too many choices ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A%26P_%28disambiguation%29

Posted by: Larmo63 Dec 12 2014, 09:26 PM

Good, you got some better looking wheels!! Filling it up the first time is so exciting, it feels like being a teenager again. (TEENager)

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 12 2014, 09:39 PM

QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Dec 12 2014, 08:25 PM)

QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 25 2013, 08:59 AM)

QUOTE(turk22 @ Sep 24 2013, 07:57 PM)

I'm a former A&P (many years ago).. I've found it to be absolutely no help...

Alright, please eduficate me, i have no clue what A&P stands for.

Google is not much help either, too many choices ...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A%26P_%28disambiguation%29

Audi and Porsche mechanic now

Posted by: A&P Mech Mar 14 2015, 10:04 AM

Last year I had the opportunity to drive Apollo, Rnellums six cylinder Subaru conversion. WOW!!!! What a fun car! From the time I released the clutch and got into the gas pedal I knew that a Subaru conversion would be in my future. Thanks Ross!

So I started to collect all the necessary conversion parts. I have the Coldwater 914 cradle, axles, shift linkage, ect. I also picked up a 5 speed Subaru transmission and clutch (thanks Scotty!) My 2007 Subaru wagon became the engine donor (EJ253 173 hp @ 5600 rpm, 166 ft·lbf torque @ 4000 rpm). After spending some time on the Outfront Motorsports web site I ended up with a Stinger ECU, wiring harness, throttle body and mid engine oil pan. I think I have almost everything needed with the exception of a radiator.

And so it starts. On the first weekend of this month a crew of Colorado 914 guys came over to help remove the stock engine and transmission from my 74. Scotty made sure all the neighbors were awake and taking notice when he arrived in his awesome white 914. It is never a bad time when you get a group of 914 guys together.

This weekend will be spent replacing the head gaskets on the EJ253 and installing the oil pan from Outfront Motorsports. I am hoping to flip the intake manifold with the use of some Grimmspeed phonolic spacers. I am unsure if this is possible but I am going to find out soon.

Posted by: rnellums Mar 14 2015, 10:49 AM

Ray, Does everything you do have to be so damn clean!!??

You are embarrassing the rest of us!

Looks like good progress, will I see it at work on Monday?

Posted by: A&P Mech Mar 14 2015, 09:30 PM

QUOTE(rnellums @ Mar 14 2015, 10:49 AM)

Posted by: JRust Mar 14 2015, 09:37 PM

Your moving right along Ray! Looking good bud

Posted by: A&P Mech Mar 15 2015, 04:40 PM

Thanks Jamie! I am hoping to have the swap done by summer. I was wondering how you dealt with the heater lines coming out of the water pump and water manifold that connects the cylinder heads. Did you just connect them with a piece of hose? I know outfront Motorsports sells a modified water manifold that they cut and weld shut. I am assuming that they just plug the outlet from the water pump?

Posted by: JRust Mar 15 2015, 06:37 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Mar 15 2015, 03:40 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 26 2015, 07:04 PM

Update: The progress continues on my EJ253. So far I have replaced the head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and thermostat. The top end is back together and the intake manifold has been flipped and installed. The drive by wire throttle body has been replaced with a cable actuated version. The oil pan was removed and replaced with a mid engine pan from Outfront Motorsport. I have removed the EGR system and machined a block off plate for the EGR valve. The EGR tube was removed and the ports are plugged. The alternator was relocated with an Outfront Motorsports bracket. I still need to design and machine a bracket to relocate the coil pack. As soon as that is completed I can pull the flex plate and install the flywheel/clutch and mate the transmission up to the engine.

I am starting to think about the cooling system. The inlet and outlet on my Subaru motor is 1.5" I am having a hard time finding 1.5" heater hose in bulk. I have found 1.25" for about $6.50/foot. What is everyone running under the car? I was thinking I could run the 1.25" and make a few adapters to step the hose up for the engine connections. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I know Renegade does make a good system but I am not willing to give them a grand for it.

Things are moving along.

Posted by: Mueller Apr 26 2015, 09:37 PM

Your motor is too clean, your garage is too clean and you are making progress...I don't like you anymore!

Posted by: Chris H. Apr 27 2015, 09:26 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 26 2015, 08:04 PM)

Update: The progress continues on my EJ253. So far I have replaced the head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and thermostat. The top end is back together and the intake manifold has been flipped and installed. The drive by wire throttle body has been replaced with a cable actuated version. The oil pan was removed and replaced with a mid engine pan from Outfront Motorsport. I have removed the EGR system and machined a block off plate for the EGR valve. The EGR tube was removed and the ports are plugged. The alternator was relocated with an Outfront Motorsports bracket. I still need to design and machine a bracket to relocate the coil pack. As soon as that is completed I can pull the flex plate and install the flywheel/clutch and mate the transmission up to the engine.

I am starting to think about the cooling system. The inlet and outlet on my Subaru motor is 1.5" I am having a hard time finding 1.5" heater hose in bulk. I have found 1.25" for about $6.50/foot. What is everyone running under the car? I was thinking I could run the 1.25" and make a few adapters to step the hose up for the engine connections. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I know Renegade does make a good system but I am not willing to give them a grand for it.

Things are moving along.

Posted by: JRust Apr 27 2015, 11:55 AM

Gates green stripe is good stuff. You can usually pick it up at Boat/Marine supply shops. I would step them down a bit. Like Chris said you can get away with smaller. Especially on the NA motor's. I am running 1 1/4 on mine both ways I believe. Have never had it heat up on me

Posted by: Chris H. Apr 27 2015, 12:22 PM

I have PLENTY of 7/8 I/D if you want some Ray. Tired of tripping over it . Just pay the shipping.

Jamie, you'll need to stick with 1.25" now that you're about to become TURBOMAAAAAAN....

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 27 2015, 12:28 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Apr 27 2015, 08:26 AM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 26 2015, 08:04 PM)

Update: The progress continues on my EJ253. So far I have replaced the head gaskets, timing belt, water pump and thermostat. The top end is back together and the intake manifold has been flipped and installed. The drive by wire throttle body has been replaced with a cable actuated version. The oil pan was removed and replaced with a mid engine pan from Outfront Motorsport. I have removed the EGR system and machined a block off plate for the EGR valve. The EGR tube was removed and the ports are plugged. The alternator was relocated with an Outfront Motorsports bracket. I still need to design and machine a bracket to relocate the coil pack. As soon as that is completed I can pull the flex plate and install the flywheel/clutch and mate the transmission up to the engine.

I am starting to think about the cooling system. The inlet and outlet on my Subaru motor is 1.5" I am having a hard time finding 1.5" heater hose in bulk. I have found 1.25" for about $6.50/foot. What is everyone running under the car? I was thinking I could run the 1.25" and make a few adapters to step the hose up for the engine connections. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I know Renegade does make a good system but I am not willing to give them a grand for it.

Things are moving along.

Don't hold me to this, but 1.25 rubber hose will PROBABLY stretch to 1.5" without much trouble. BTW Kent and I used much smaller hose for our cars. 3/4 on the hot side and 7/8 on the cool side per Bob's recommendations. Renegade uses 1" on the hot side and 1 1/4" on the cool side, or at least that's what I found from a build thread. Jags that Run has a number of adapters available.

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 27 2015, 12:44 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Apr 27 2015, 12:22 PM)

I have PLENTY of 7/8 I/D if you want some Ray. Tired of tripping over it . Just pay the shipping.

Jamie, you'll need to stick with 1.25" now that you're about to become TURBOMAAAAAAN....

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 27 2015, 12:52 PM

QUOTE(Mueller @ Apr 26 2015, 09:37 PM)

Your motor is too clean, your garage is too clean and you are making progress...I don't like you anymore!

Posted by: Chris H. Apr 27 2015, 12:54 PM

PM me your address and I'll weigh it tonight or tomorrow. It's most likely more than you need so just pay it forward to the next guy.

Hey Kent, I definitely have my cooling setup the way you describe.... ...the smaller, lower hose gets HOT before anything else...is that weird or normal?

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 27 2015, 01:06 PM

IDK the EG series well enough to comment. Is it's thermostat on the bottom like the EZ series? Regardless, when the thermostat is open the return side temps should be cooler. That isn't ambient heat transfer off your header is it?

Posted by: Chris H. Apr 27 2015, 01:12 PM

Yep, thermostat is right there, but it may be still burping out a little air from the winter. Who knows... ? Definitely not from the header. I'll keep watching it.

OK Ray carry on!

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 30 2015, 10:13 PM

Rnellums and I have been playing around with a Porscharu logo for fun. I was goofing off in the garage tonight and I engraved it into a piece of plastic. I think it came out pretty good. I am planing to engrave it on the block off plate on my Subaru transmission.

Posted by: Mueller Apr 30 2015, 10:25 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 30 2015, 09:13 PM)

Rnellums and I have been playing around with a Porscharu logo for fun. I was goofing off in the garage tonight and I engraved it into a piece of plastic. I think it came out pretty good. I am planing to engrave it on the block off plate on my Subaru transmission.

Posted by: A&P Mech May 1 2015, 12:28 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 5 2015, 08:33 PM

After a wait that lasted over two months the freight company showed up with my new garage accessory . My new MaxJax!



I am hoping this helps speed up the conversion.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 7 2015, 08:33 PM

Unpacked and ready to mount. I just need to drill the holes for the concrete anchors. I should have the 914 up in the air by next weekend.

Posted by: rnellums Jun 7 2015, 08:43 PM

This will make oil changes much easier!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 7 2015, 08:46 PM

QUOTE(rnellums @ Jun 7 2015, 08:43 PM)

This will make oil changes much easier!

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 8 2015, 05:05 AM

I know this is not facebook, but I "LIKE"

QUOTE(Mueller @ Apr 26 2015, 08:37 PM)

Your motor is too clean, your garage is too clean and you are making progress...I don't like you anymore!

Posted by: Mueller Jun 8 2015, 08:42 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jun 7 2015, 07:33 PM)

Unpacked and ready to mount. I just need to drill the holes for the concrete anchors. I should have the 914 up in the air by next weekend.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 8 2015, 07:05 PM

Right? So far I have a friend that asked if we could do a clutch on his cousins car and a friend that wants to do a cat back borla exhaust on his wrx. I haven't even bolted it to the concrete yet. Haha. I don't mind. It will be fun.

Posted by: JRust Jun 8 2015, 07:11 PM

The key is having your car on the lift so it is taken. LOL
Seriously though nice score on the lift. Hands down the best purchase for my 914s I have ever made

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 15 2015, 06:56 AM

The installation is complete! I couldn't be happier. No more jack stands!

Posted by: 3d914 Aug 15 2015, 11:04 AM

Ray, nice project & nice progress! I like the Subi SOHC motors. Got a similar one in the 01 OB. Bought intentionally as a future donor.

Enjoy!

Posted by: JRust Aug 15 2015, 12:44 PM

Looking good Ray! You going to come to RRC next month?

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 15 2015, 06:23 PM

I am not going to make it to the RRC this year, I don't think my car will be ready. I am hoping to have it running by the end of September. I am working on the radiator install right now. I fabricated the mount and I am working on the shroud.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 15 2015, 06:24 PM

Inlet opening.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 15 2015, 06:33 PM

QUOTE(3d914 @ Aug 15 2015, 11:04 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 29 2015, 09:24 PM

I made some great progress this weekend. I completed my radiator mount/shroud fabrication. Hey Mueller, I put the shroud together with solid rivets, nut plates and a few rivnuts.



The tranny and the engine are mated. It looks like I have to remove some sheet metal. The starter, clutch relase arm and the tail of the tranny are hitting the sheet metal.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 30 2015, 11:16 AM

Where did you pickup that radiator? Looks good and I like the fan shroud.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 30 2015, 11:56 AM

I picked it up off of e-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-CORE-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-BOLT-ON-RED-FAN-SHROUD-00-05-TOYOTA-CELICA-GT-GTS-/180901154597?fits=Make%3AToyota%7CModel%3ACelica&hash=item2a1e8c8f25&vxp=mtr

I also ordered the correct lower vibration mounts. Found the Toyota part number and ordered them from Amazon. It worked out pretty nice.

Posted by: JRust Aug 30 2015, 01:53 PM

Ooh! Get a move on. Red Rocks is coming quick! Sure hoping to see you there

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 30 2015, 02:10 PM

This a four day weekend for me. I have been in the garage non stop for the last 2.5 days and I plan on doing the same until tomorrow night. I still don't think I will make the RRC. Jamie, I would love to make it so I could see your beautiful car firsthand.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 30 2015, 03:00 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 30 2015, 01:56 PM)

Posted by: mepstein Aug 30 2015, 03:13 PM

Would you be willing to share the templates for the fan shroud. Thanks

Posted by: 914forme Aug 30 2015, 03:22 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 30 2015, 05:13 PM)

Posted by: mepstein Aug 30 2015, 03:26 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 30 2015, 05:22 PM)

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 30 2015, 05:13 PM)

Would you be willing to share the templates for the fan shroud. Thanks

Its part of the eBay radiator, as are the red fans.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 30 2015, 07:11 PM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Aug 30 2015, 03:13 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 30 2015, 07:31 PM

The engine and transmission are installed! One step closer to

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 30 2015, 08:26 PM

Not sure if the axle alignment is correct? I realize that the suspension is unloaded but the Subaru sub axles appear to be about 2.5" forward of the hubs. I am using Ian's cradle so there is no adjustment fore or aft. Any ideas?

Posted by: JRust Aug 31 2015, 02:41 PM

Your Axles should be fine there. Shouldn't add such an angle you will have an issue. Especially with your build. If you were doing a 6 or WRX crazy build. HP wise it might be something to worry about. I'd check mine but it is off for paint. I'd see how it looks with your Axles bolted up with your CV's. I remember Renegade's v8 builds used a 1 1/2" set back blocks for the transmission. Seen some that were pushed back even farther & did fine. I'm thinking the extra couple inches forward is to help with your intake & maybe not needing to cut the trunk

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 31 2015, 02:49 PM

Cool. Thanks for the reply! I was able to flip my intake so I didn't have to cut my trunk for that, but I did have to put a small hole in it for the clutch release arm. I am now trying to figure out the fuel system. The EJ253 doesn't appear to have a return line from the fuel rails to fuel tank??? I am guessing I will have to source a fuel pressure regulator that has a bypass to allow the unused fuel to return to the tank or I could just keep the pedal to the floor and not have any un-burned fuel.

Posted by: JRust Aug 31 2015, 02:58 PM

I had to have a cutout for my starter too. Doesn't come into the trunk a lot but wouldn't fit under . Ditto on the clutch arm. I have a return line on my setup . Can't remember if there is a pressure regulator. Don't remember there being one there by my pump . Damn another thing I can't go out & look for you. I am finally getting to know my setup better . One drawback to not doing the conversion myself originally.

Posted by: Mueller Aug 31 2015, 04:34 PM

Great progress!

You must be LOVING that lift!

Solid rivets eh?

I wonder what I ever did with my 1st bucking bar I made in school?

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 31 2015, 06:21 PM

Yeah I agree, your axles should be fine like that. Take a look at 914 axles. They're a lot more angled upward than those are sideways.

Have you found the service manual for that engine? What year and car would it have come out of? Seems impossible not to have a return line.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 31 2015, 06:50 PM

Not impossible, lots of EFI systems don't have return lines, just a little odd to us since we have lived with them for so long. My son's old Civic did not have one, fuel pressured reg is before the inlet, so it backs up pressure onto the pump. Wears out the pump faster? But Honda saved $10000000s on the lack of return line over the production run of the car.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 31 2015, 08:03 PM

The lift is awesome!!!! It is easily the best purchase I have made in a long time. I was able to remove my engine/transmission twice today with out a single jack stand and without any help.

Chris, the engine is a 2007 2.5 SOHC. I have found adjustable regulators that have a bypass.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13129/overview/.

I would like to know how Subaru is achieving the same thing.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 31 2015, 08:26 PM

Sent you a PM. Your eyes will be tired soon. Give the engine section a read and see what the FI setup looks like. My brain can't absorb any more Subaru diagrams.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 1 2015, 12:38 PM

It turns out that Subaru moved the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel tank in 2006. I gave Outfront Motorsports a call to purchase a regulator with a bypass. All I can say is they are an awesome group of guys!!!! Instead of selling me a new part that I didn't need they provided a solution. I am going to tap into the far side of the rail/line and simply install a regulator.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 19 2015, 07:16 AM

It's runs! I started my Subaru conversion last night for the first time. I am not sure my neighbors were as excited about it as me. It ran with an open header. It was loud.

https://youtu.be/rmFd0-R9cNc

I still have to complete the axles, mount the ECU and install the shift cables. I am getting close!

Posted by: rnellums Sep 19 2015, 07:31 AM

Hell yeah Ray! Now let's get some snows for winter driving!

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 19 2015, 08:06 AM

Yeah, I got it running just it time for winter.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 19 2015, 09:23 AM

Congratulations! Let's see some close ups of your riveting. AN 426's?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 19 2015, 04:07 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 19 2015, 09:23 AM)

Congratulations! Let's see some close ups of your riveting. AN 426's?

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 19 2015, 05:28 PM

Ignore my bolt hole dimensions. If you can grab an old brake MC, use it as a drill guide for your bolt holes and of course you will have the clutch MC to use as a guide for the other 2 bolt holes. When the plate is drilled out, place it in a vice and center the holes horizontally. Then mount the clutch MC and twist the plate 3 degrees down. I use a large pipe wrench and grab the plate around the mounted MC. Having the MC bolted down keeps the plate from twisting the flat surface the MC mounts to. Use the center of the large hole on the clutch master as a guide to locate center of the hole you will drill in the floorboard. Your going to love that conversion your building and you won't be afraid to drive cross country in it, either.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 19 2015, 05:34 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Sep 19 2015, 05:28 PM)

Ignore my bolt hole dimensions. If you can grab an old brake MC, use it as a drill guide for your bolt holes and of course you will have the clutch MC to use as a guide for the other 2 bolt holes. When the plate is drilled out, place it in a vice and center the holes horizontally. Then mount the clutch MC and twist the plate 3 degrees down. I use a large pipe wrench and grab the plate around the mounted MC. Having the MC bolted down keeps the plate from twisting the flat surface the MC mounts to. Use the center of the large hole on the clutch master as a guide to locate center of the hole you will drill in the floorboard. Your going to love that conversion your building and you won't be afraid to drive cross country in it, either.

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 19 2015, 06:55 PM

It's pretty rewarding when it fires up isn't it? Nice. Just got back from a lap in mine. Clutch still works great. That plate Kent made is the key.

Posted by: JRust Sep 19 2015, 07:09 PM

Congrats bud! Only which you & Ross could have made it out for Red Rocks. Been a fun weekend & almost over. I head back tomorrow but my car worked great. Next time but can't wait to see some video of you driving yours. Way to go

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 19 2015, 09:31 PM

Chris, I have been working on the car non-stop for the last couple of months. It was very nice to hear the engine fire up for the first time. It helps keep the momentum up. I would like to drive the car before the snow starts to fall.

It is good to hear that the clutch mod is still working out well. It looked like a solid install and smart design. I really appreciate that you and Kent took the time to figure it out and share it with everyone here. You guys Rock!

Jamie, The EMS Stinger and Outfront wiring harness sure made the electrical install easy. Thanks for helping me decide to go that way when you were here in Denver.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 20 2015, 12:06 PM

I just wrapped up the cable shift install. Next on the list is the hydraulic clutch.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 20 2015, 12:11 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 20 2015, 02:06 PM)

I just wrapped up the cable shift install. Next on the list is the hydraulic clutch.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 20 2015, 12:14 PM

It is. Ian did a great job on the kit.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 22 2015, 06:05 AM

I started fabrication of the clutch master cylinder mount last night. I was able to get the holes for both master cylinders cut and the two holes drilled that are use to mount the plate to the pedal cluster. I should get the plate trimmed down and installed tonight. As I was removing the pedals I realized that I may have a problem. My coolant hoses appear to occupy the same space as the new clutch master cylinder. I am not sure what it is going to take to make it all fit but as soon as I get the new plate mounted I will start working on a solution.

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 22 2015, 06:50 AM

Once you trim the plate down you just have to move the hoses around a bit. May need to slacken them a little. It's a lot of stuff to put in that small space but it'll fit.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 23 2015, 12:42 PM

Looking good. Chris is correct. It is like trying to shove 2 gals of shit into a 1 gal bucket.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 08:11 AM

I was able to get the clutch master cylinder mounted yesterday. I will be working on building the hydraulic line and mounting the reservoir. I expect to have the clutch bled and operational today.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 08:16 AM

Clutch master cylinder installed. I am not sure why my photos post up-side down? They appear correct before they post.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 08:24 AM

To get everything to fit a few of the parts needed a little mill time. The clevis was contacting the clutch arm and the accelerator cable arm. After a few minutes on the mill everything worked great.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 26 2015, 08:30 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 26 2015, 07:16 AM)

Clutch master cylinder installed. I am not sure why my photos post up-side down? They appear correct before they post.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 08:31 AM

The bolts that hold the brake mater cylinder on are not long enough to add the new mounting plate and still engage the nut. They need to be replaced. The factory welded them in to the pedal cluster. I had to cut the old bolts out with a dremel tool and weld a new set in.


Thanks Kent for the information!

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 26 2015, 09:32 AM

You're almost there! Thread the -3an line going to the slave clylinder through the clutch tube. It fits perfectly. And if you lie on your back with a flashlight you should see a hole above where the MC is that's about the right size for the reservoir feed line. It's a tight fit bit it works.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 26 2015, 09:38 AM

Anybody want to make me one of these clutch things. I'll pay. Please?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 09:39 AM

Perfect timing! I just got out into the garage to start looking at how to run the 3an line. It appears that the fittings are threaded onto the hose? Did you use any oil when you assembled your fittings onto the hose?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 09:47 AM

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 26 2015, 09:38 AM)

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 26 2015, 09:48 AM

I did use oil. With a line that small you just need a very small amount. It's very easy.

Here's a MUCH LARGER one being assembled.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeeflgGlenY


Just make sure to feed the line through the clutch tube before you do the slave end. The hose fits EXACTLY in the tube with no extra space.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 09:51 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Sep 26 2015, 09:48 AM)

Posted by: mepstein Sep 26 2015, 10:17 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 26 2015, 11:47 AM)

QUOTE(mepstein @ Sep 26 2015, 09:38 AM)

Anybody want to make me one of these clutch things. I'll pay. Please?

I can measure mine and draw it up in SolidWorks for you. It would be very easy to have it water jetted. The only catch is that I will not be able to get to it for a couple of weeks. I don't know if any one else could get to it sooner?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 10:21 AM

My 90 degree fitting is hitting the firewall keeping me from bolting the master cylinder in. I am not sure what the solution is yet. Different fitting? Cut a hole?

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 10:31 AM

Fitting interference.

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 26 2015, 10:38 AM

Can you post a wider shot? I wouldn't cut another hole. There are a lot of fittings available. Kent should be along shortly.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 10:51 AM

A little better.


I am thinking of punching a hole just above the master cylinder and turning the fitting around so it points into the interior. I need to get the hose into the tunnel anyway. It might solve the problem. The only down side is the hole would have to be a bit larger.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 12:03 PM

Problem solved. It worked out great. I just ran the 90 degree fitting through the fire wall.

Posted by: rhodyguy Sep 26 2015, 02:20 PM

Nice work. You've moved along FAST! I bet you could sell radiator/shroud kits if you wanted too.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 02:31 PM

QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Sep 26 2015, 02:20 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 26 2015, 03:32 PM

Clutch reservoir bracket fabricated and installed.

Posted by: 76-914 Sep 26 2015, 04:17 PM

You got it. Mine is offset to the left.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 27 2015, 07:42 AM

Modified the clutch pedal with a pedal stop. I drilled and tapped the pedal arm. The pedal arm is made of some of the softest steel I have ever worked with.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 30 2015, 09:03 PM

I finished the hydraulic clutch installation last weekend. During the bleeding process I noticed that the plate that I fabricated was flexing when the pedal was pushed through about half its travel. I made my plate out of 1/8" steel. It's what I had on hand. To remedy this situation I fabricated a stiffer bracket. I think it will put an end to the flex.

Posted by: mepstein Oct 4 2015, 04:38 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 30 2015, 11:03 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 4 2015, 07:09 PM

I am not sure how that would work? The adapter plate places the master cylinder about the perfect distance from the pedal arm. The sheet metal in the area where the clutch master needs to be is not flat and it angles in towards the pedal cluster. I think it would take a bit more metal work to get it to fit. With all that being said I have not tried it, so I could be wrong.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 5 2015, 09:35 AM

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old.
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 6 2015, 06:53 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 5 2015, 08:35 AM)

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old.
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver.

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 6 2015, 07:49 PM

I have two 914/WRX's with Subaru transmissions, one done a long time ago, one last year. We used a Tilton pedal set in mine rather than sort out our own solution. For my son's car, done last year, we used 76-914's Honda master plate, like you've done. It works extremely well, better than the Tilton pedals. So... good choice and well done, I'm pretty sure you're gonna like it a lot.

Great project, by the way.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 7 2015, 07:29 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 6 2015, 05:53 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 5 2015, 08:35 AM)

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old.
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver.

I did think about going with a thicker plate but I had the 1\8" steel strap. I am not sure how well it will work yet. I haven't had a chance to try it out.

I do wish I had entered my car in the build off because I have spent a ton of cash with mark @914rubber. It would be nice to have a chance to win that back.

I plan on driving my car in a few weeks. I hope that I took enough time and did things right so it will be a good daily driver.

Posted by: 914forme Oct 7 2015, 08:23 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 6 2015, 08:53 PM)

I do wish I had entered my car in the build off because I have spent a ton of cash with mark @914rubber. It would be nice to have a chance to win that back.

Posted by: JRust Oct 7 2015, 11:15 AM

Your setup will be sweet. Only issue I have with my stinger is starting. There isn't a cold start setup. So for modern FI it doesn't feel so modern that way. Just reaching in & turning the key for instant startup. That doesn't happen for me. I am having it looked at tomorrow to see about options there. Get a fair amount of popping starting mine cold. Once up & going all is fine. Looking forward to the first drive video . So quit screwing around already & finish

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 7 2015, 03:58 PM

besides my PM to you a minute ago. i see you have installed stainless fuel lines.
who did you buy them from?
what size? 9.5mm and 8mm.
did you need to use any reducers between them and the fuel lines on the car?
thanks
jim

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 7 2015, 07:19 PM

I purchased my SS lines from Chris @Tangerine Racing. He is a great guy. I am not sure of the size, it was whatever Chris suggested for a stock type 4 . I still had my stock 2.0l in my car when I installed them. Chris did sell me a reducer for one of the lines. Give him a call and he will hook you up.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 7 2015, 07:22 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 7 2015, 11:15 AM)

Your setup will be sweet. Only issue I have with my stinger is starting. There isn't a cold start setup. So for modern FI it doesn't feel so modern that way. Just reaching in & turning the key for instant startup. That doesn't happen for me. I am having it looked at tomorrow to see about options there. Get a fair amount of popping starting mine cold. Once up & going all is fine. Looking forward to the first drive video . So quit screwing around already & finish

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 7 2015, 08:44 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 7 2015, 08:19 PM)

Posted by: mgp4591 Oct 7 2015, 08:49 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Oct 7 2015, 08:44 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 7 2015, 08:19 PM)

I purchased my SS lines from Chris @Tangerine Racing. He is a great guy. I am not sure of the size, it was whatever Chris suggested for a stock type 4 . I still had my stock 2.0l in my car when I installed them. Chris did sell me a reducer for one of the lines. Give him a call and he will hook you up.

Not sure if this applies to all of them, but the Subaru engines I looked at were 8mm for both supply and return. This is the stock 914 size for later cars (75-76) and CFR makes it in stainless. The EG33 is 8mm for both.

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 8 2015, 05:28 AM

Tangerine Racing. I had them before I decided to do the conversion. Luckily they were the right size. 8mm supply and return, which is stock 75-76. It looks like some of the turbo Subarus need larger lines which he has as well.

http://tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm

For the soft lines I used Gates Barricade 5/16 fuel injection hose. You have to make sure it's rated for high pressure FI.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 9 2015, 07:26 AM

I purchased my rubber fuel injection line from tangerine as well. It is very high quality stuff. I didn't end up needing the engine compartment SS lines that I purchased when I installed my Subaru. I will try to post some pictures of the fuel system this weekend.

Posted by: JRust Oct 9 2015, 06:11 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 7 2015, 06:22 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 11 2015, 06:06 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 5 2015, 09:35 AM)

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old.
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 15 2015, 07:43 PM

I made a little progress tonight. I got my axles put together and installed. The next big project will the exhaust. I am thinking about fabricating it from the header back. I have been looking at mufflers and I am leaning toward the Flowmaster HP2. I would like the exhaust to be quite. Anyone have a recommendation other than the HP2?

Posted by: JRust Oct 15 2015, 11:02 PM

For Exhaust mine goes below my cradle. Really hangs low & I will be changing it. So hope you can keep it as high as possible. My rear end I have sitting a little higher so I don't scrape. I'd like to get it changed so I can drop the rear a couple inches. Oh my starting issue was a cracked vacumn line couple with my accelerator cable. My cable needed a little adjustment. Wasn't quite seating all the way back. So sensor was dumping to much fuel. Back home & running sweet. When cold I still need to give it 2 pumps but the starts right up.

Your progress is great bud. You'll be driving any day

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 16 2015, 06:29 AM

Jamie I am glad to hear that your starting issue was an easy fix! The header I have looks like it was designed for a turbo engine. The output flange/collector points up at about a 45 degree angle. I am assuming that it is for an up-pipe? I think it will work to get the exhaust up and over the axle. I am planning to route the exhaust as high as I can.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 16 2015, 06:30 AM

Double post.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 18 2015, 11:54 AM

It's ALIVE! Ross and I pulled my car out of the garage for the first time in over a year! I still have to get an exhaust system installed. We ran it with an open header. I think the neighbors enjoyed it. It ran great! The hydraulic clutch is awesome. I am so glad I took the time to do it. Thanks Kent and Chris for all the help getting that system figured out.
https://youtu.be/uZQ2aDX2oPw

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 18 2015, 12:48 PM

Nice work! It's all down hill from here.

Sounds like a MEAN Type 4 with no muffler on it.

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 18 2015, 03:08 PM

Ha ha, yeah, woke up your neighbors, for sure. But on the plus side all the men in the neighborhood will be over to find out what the hell is going on and seeing if they can get a ride.

Now is the really fun part, doing something and then getting to drive it to see how it turned out.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 18 2015, 03:51 PM

Fantastic! And great build, too. It will be a few weeks before that grin leaves your face. Welcome to The Dark Side.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 19 2015, 05:55 AM

Now that the car finally drives it's time to make it road worthy. I started to get my front fenders vented for the radiator exit air. I used a 2" panel hole cutter with my 1\2" electric impact. It worked like a charm. The total area of the exit holes on both fenders will equal twice the total inlet area. After looking at the finished job, I think I could have gotten away with a few less? I am pondering welding in some expanded metal to add a little more rigidity?

Posted by: JRust Oct 19 2015, 12:43 PM

Hell yeah bud! I don't see a link for video though . Get that Exhaust done & take a real drive with some video bud . Seriously cool you can drive it now. So much dang fun

Posted by: Chris H. Oct 19 2015, 01:23 PM

Embedded (if it lets me)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZQ2aDX2oPw

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 19 2015, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 19 2015, 04:55 AM)

Now that the car finally drives it's time to make it road worthy. I started to get my front fenders vented for the radiator exit air. I used a 2" panel hole cutter with my 1\2" electric impact. It worked like a charm. The total area of the exit holes on both fenders will equal twice the total inlet area. After looking at the finished job, I think I could have gotten away with a few less? I am pondering welding in some expanded metal to add a little more rigidity?

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 23 2015, 05:16 PM

Today was a great day. I was able to get my exhaust systems completed. I had a local exhaust shop fabricate it. I know I should have tackled it myself but I am running out of good weather and I wanted to get some driving in before the white stuff starts to fall.

I have to give a big shout out to rnellums for towing my car to and from the shop. The shop was in downtown Denver and flat towing a 914 through traffic can be exciting.

I am planning to button up a few things and attending my first cars and coffee on Sunday.

Here are a few pictures of the completed exhaust system. It sounds great. Not to loud but a good deep rumble.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 24 2015, 07:33 AM

Looks great! How about some more pic's of your entire exhaust system for future 2.5 NA builder's. I've got a feeling this will be the engine of choice for most folks. If I may ask; what did the muffler shop charge? Got a sound bite?

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 24 2015, 08:12 AM

I will get some more pictures and a video/sound bite up today.

I was really impressed with how hard the car pulled with just a 2.5l n/a @5000 plus feet. I am a happy camper.

The muffler shop charged just two hours of labor. They welded my header, fabricated a heat shield and the exhaust system from the header back. The total out the door was $500. The car was dropped off at 9am and picked up by 1pm.

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 24 2015, 08:18 AM

what header are you using with coldwater cradle? looks very good

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 24 2015, 08:29 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:12 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 24 2015, 08:45 AM

QUOTE(jimkelly @ Oct 24 2015, 08:18 AM)

what header are you using with coldwater cradle? looks very good

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 24 2015, 08:48 AM

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Oct 24 2015, 08:29 AM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:12 AM)

I was really impressed with how hard the car pulled with just a 2.5l n/a @5000 plus feet. I am a happy camper.

This is the part I like, the first driving impressions and the big smiles.

Posted by: jimkelly Oct 24 2015, 10:11 AM

two thread pages and you go from a non suby car to a running suby conversion, shit, that is freaking awesome

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 24 2015, 10:16 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:12 AM)

I will get some more pictures and a video/sound bite up today.

I was really impressed with how hard the car pulled with just a 2.5l n/a @5000 plus feet. I am a happy camper.

The muffler shop charged just two hours of labor. They welded my header, fabricated a heat shield and the exhaust system from the header back. The total out the door was $500. The car was dropped off at 9am and picked up by 1pm.

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Oct 24 2015, 07:29 AM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:12 AM)

I was really impressed with how hard the car pulled with just a 2.5l n/a @5000 plus feet. I am a happy camper.

This is the part I like, the first driving impressions and the big smiles.

Posted by: Mueller Oct 24 2015, 10:43 AM

Awesome...I look forward to the video...sounded cool uncorked!

Posted by: JRust Oct 24 2015, 11:13 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:48 AM)

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 24 2015, 12:25 PM

That's exactly why I enjoy letting other people drive my car. The improvement is almost startling, and a little hard to believe until you actually try it.

Posted by: Andyrew Oct 24 2015, 01:37 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:12 AM)

I will get some more pictures and a video/sound bite up today.

I was really impressed with how hard the car pulled with just a 2.5l n/a @5000 plus feet. I am a happy camper.

The muffler shop charged just two hours of labor. They welded my header, fabricated a heat shield and the exhaust system from the header back. The total out the door was $500. The car was dropped off at 9am and picked up by 1pm.

Posted by: rnellums Oct 26 2015, 06:18 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oz1gdddabfw

A short clip of the exhaust note! Halfway through his pull it broke my microphone apparently!

Posted by: flmont Oct 26 2015, 06:35 PM

How do ya sign in to hear / watch the video,...Thanks Frank

Posted by: rnellums Oct 26 2015, 06:42 PM

QUOTE(flmont @ Oct 26 2015, 06:35 PM)

Posted by: Mueller Oct 26 2015, 08:14 PM

Sounded good for all 5 seconds of it!

Great job....

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 26 2015, 08:35 PM

Thanks! I am really digging it. It is surprisingly quick.

Posted by: 1stworks Oct 26 2015, 08:48 PM

QUOTE(Mueller @ Oct 26 2015, 08:14 PM)

Posted by: DBCooper Oct 26 2015, 09:11 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 26 2015, 07:35 PM)

It is surprisingly quick.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 27 2015, 06:02 AM

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Oct 26 2015, 09:11 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 26 2015, 07:35 PM)

It is surprisingly quick.

"surprisingly" quick? Ha ha ha, you mean YOU'RE surprised, right?

Actually there are a few people with these cars now, I wonder how many of us have gone back and driven a stock T4 motored car after getting used to ours. I suspect that surprise probably works both ways.

Looks good. Now the real fun begins.

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 27 2015, 09:10 AM

Sounds great! Good job. Now you can enjoy the reliability of a modern day power plant.
In response to DB's post: I can't drive my stock type4 914 anymore. It just sits on life support (battery tender). I need to sell it or convert it.

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 27 2015, 08:27 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 24 2015, 11:13 AM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 24 2015, 07:48 AM)

I really enjoyed the smiles as well. When rnellums and I drove around my neighborhood for the first time after getting the exhaust, a neighbor that I have never met had a big smile on his face and gave me a thumbs up as we drove by. Pretty cool.

It is a great feeling. The pull out of these little 2.5 motor's is great. With the suby tranny is what really set's it off. That nice short throw but precise & so smooth . Can't wait to see it at an event & compare cars. I am curious about the hydraulic clutch

Posted by: A&P Mech Oct 27 2015, 08:35 PM

I mounted a new set of shoes on the car tonight. I really dig them . Ross was very generous to let me borrow them. I am trying to decide what direction to go with for wheels and tires.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 25 2015, 07:56 AM

Now that I have my car running it is time to deal with the suspension. My rear shocks are leaking and the springs feel really soft. I have to admit I know very little about suspension.

I have done a bit of searching on the world for what most people are using on a stock'ish setup. It appears that 140# springs with either bilstein sports or koni shocks is a popular choice. I am not going to race my car so I am looking for a good street setup. I plan on adding a front swaybar if I can find a good used one. My car is going to ride on 195-65R15 tires.

I have looked at the Rebel Racing coil overs. http://rebelracingproducts.com/914products.html, the Ground Control Coilovers http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II and the Elephant Racing http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/coilover/914coiloversleeve.htm. I am not sure I need coilovers but it appears that it doesn't add much to the price?

Am I on the right track? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 25 2015, 05:44 PM

I went with Eric Shea's recommendation based upon my 6's additional weight. I'm happy with his suggestion. Give him a holler. He should presently be out on the "weekend&holiday release program".

Posted by: JRust Nov 25 2015, 06:25 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 27 2015, 06:35 PM)

I mounted a new set of shoes on the car tonight. I really dig them . Ross was very generous to let me borrow them. I am trying to decide what direction to go with for wheels and tires.

Posted by: mgp4591 Nov 25 2015, 09:24 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 25 2015, 04:44 PM)

I went with Eric Shea's recommendation based upon my 6's additional weight. I'm happy with his suggestion. Give him a holler. He should presently be out on the "weekend&holiday release program".

Posted by: Cairo94507 Nov 25 2015, 10:23 PM

I will wager a guess....Bilstein sports.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 25 2015, 10:45 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Nov 25 2015, 07:24 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 25 2015, 04:44 PM)

I went with Eric Shea's recommendation based upon my 6's additional weight. I'm happy with his suggestion. Give him a holler. He should presently be out on the "weekend&holiday release program".

So what was Mr. Sheas recommendation? Keeping people in suspense isn't nice...

QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Nov 25 2015, 08:23 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 26 2015, 07:44 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Nov 25 2015, 05:25 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 27 2015, 06:35 PM)

I mounted a new set of shoes on the car tonight. I really dig them . Ross was very generous to let me borrow them. I am trying to decide what direction to go with for wheels and tires.

Holy cow you need to lower that front end . Sitting way to high am I missing a jack on the other side or something? The fuchs are always a good choice. Personally the 4 lug Mahle wheels are my favorite stock wheel. After that the 17" Revolutions are bad ass

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 26 2015, 09:03 AM

IIRC, the springs came from Eckler but the 140# weight range was suggested by Eric. I too, run the stock front sway bar but I also run a rear sway bar. I like the extra stiffness with the additional weight. I'll bet yours will be fine w/ just the front but you will figure that out for yourself. You've been driving your conversion long enough to now say, "Damn that turned out well"!

Posted by: JRust Nov 26 2015, 10:14 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 26 2015, 05:44 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 26 2015, 10:17 AM

After

Posted by: matthepcat Nov 26 2015, 10:32 AM

At least all the hard work is done and you can swap in an EJ257 when you want it to be very fast.

Suspension & brakes first!

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 27 2015, 04:02 AM)

QUOTE(DBCooper @ Oct 26 2015, 09:11 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 26 2015, 07:35 PM)

It is surprisingly quick.

"surprisingly" quick? Ha ha ha, you mean YOU'RE surprised, right?

Actually there are a few people with these cars now, I wonder how many of us have gone back and driven a stock T4 motored car after getting used to ours. I suspect that surprise probably works both ways.

Looks good. Now the real fun begins.

Yep, It moves out better than I expected. I wouldn't describe it as fast but it is quick enough to put a smile on my face when I put it to the floor. I would agree, a stock T4 would feel a bit different after driving a Subaru conversion. The swap is a huge improvement with no down side that I can find. No regrets!

Posted by: JRust Nov 26 2015, 11:37 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 26 2015, 08:17 AM)

After

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 26 2015, 11:40 AM

It is funny how that works. I thought that the ej253 was going to be fast enough. It is a fun amount of power but I have been spending time looking at what it would take to turbo it. Suspension and brakes first for sure!

If anyone has a spare front swaybar that is just taking up space I would be happy to put it to good use. Let me know, maybe we could work something out.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 26 2015, 11:44 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Nov 26 2015, 10:37 AM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 26 2015, 08:17 AM)

After

Whoa. Did it actually change when you lowered it? Was it higher than that before? I think your front struts have an issue. While they may still work. Looks to me like they are fully extending. Someone smarter than me will chime in I am sure. That isn't right & I did have one car that happened to me on. Swapping the front strut's took care of the problem. There may be an adjustment I didn't know about though

Posted by: Chris H. Nov 27 2015, 11:44 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 26 2015, 11:40 AM)

It is funny how that works. I thought that the ej253 was going to be fast enough. It is a fun amount of power but I have been spending time looking at what it would take to turbo it.

Posted by: DBCooper Nov 28 2015, 06:44 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 26 2015, 09:40 AM)

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 28 2015, 07:02 PM

Yep, be careful. HP is addictive. Makes Crack look like Cotton Candy. I've been wearing a Garlic necklace for the past few weeks but I don't think it's working. Audi w/ drivetrains as low as 1500; STI packages 4.5K; Epstein puts a 928 V8 in the classifieds just to with me; BigKat83 has a "R" series EZ for sale and lastly there is the LS series available everywhere for the "partially insane". So many temptations winking at us.

Posted by: rnellums Nov 28 2015, 07:55 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 28 2015, 06:02 PM)

Yep, be careful. HP is addictive. Makes Crack look like Cotton Candy. I've been wearing a Garlic necklace for the past few weeks but I don't think it's working. Audi w/ drivetrains as low as 1500; STI packages 4.5K; Epstein puts a 928 V8 in the classifieds just to with me; BigKat83 has a "R" series EZ for sale and lastly there is the LS series available everywhere for the "partially insane". So many temptations winking at us.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 28 2015, 08:11 PM

Ross do I sense a turbo build off?

DBCooper are you telling me that my current set-up is quicker than a 2.7 conversation? Well I guess I am glad I didn't spend the money to do that.

Kent, I do like the 928. I have like that car since I was a young snot nosed kid. I think an LS conversation would be awesome!

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 28 2015, 08:15 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 28 2015, 06:02 PM)

So many temptations winking at us.

Posted by: DBCooper Nov 28 2015, 08:17 PM

Excellent! That's EXACTLY the right answer!!

Posted by: JRust Nov 28 2015, 11:09 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 28 2015, 06:15 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 28 2015, 06:02 PM)

So many temptations winking at us.

I am not going to lie, I am not a strong man. I will be unable to resist the upgrade demon's.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 29 2015, 09:04 AM

The suspension upgrade is in process. Garold was kind enough to sale the front swaybar assembly off of his parts car. I sent Eric Shea a PM asking for his opinion on struts, shocks and springs. On Black Friday, Discount Tire was running a sale . I picked up four new Goodyear eagle sport tires. We are well on our way to getting the suspension sorted out.

I found a great deal on Amazon over the weekend. I picked up a set of heated seat inserts.

http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-High-low-Switch-Diameter-Universal/dp/B00NE78OFE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_422_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51v8vMUFZbL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0ADS9R8T37R0JK7WX90YY

I am going to install them when reupholster my seats with the 914Rubber seat kit.

It feels a lot like Christmas right now.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 29 2015, 11:07 AM

Your going to love those seat heaters. I've got the same ones but paid $49 for mine and I thought that was a good deal! Take your seats out and watch a football game while you do it. Only takes about 35 min's per seat. I ran a dedicated 10ga wire for mine. It's in my build thread if you need it but you won't.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 29 2015, 11:11 AM

That is great to hear. They were pretty inexpensive and I wasn't sure about the quality. I will check your thread. I not sure how I missed it. I must have read your thread front to back at least 5 times.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 29 2015, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 29 2015, 09:11 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 29 2015, 02:58 PM

Thanks for finding the actual post number. I just to a look at it. It appears that you didn't need to cut them to make them fit.

Posted by: 76-914 Nov 29 2015, 04:24 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 29 2015, 12:58 PM)

Posted by: mgp4591 Nov 29 2015, 08:01 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Nov 28 2015, 10:09 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 28 2015, 06:15 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 28 2015, 06:02 PM)

So many temptations winking at us.

I am not going to lie, I am not a strong man. I will be unable to resist the upgrade demon's.

Get your suspension done first bud. Let the engine upgrade's just be in your head for a while. With your stinger you can just add a lower boost turbo. I think you can do up to 8lbs of boost safely. You'll need a new map for the stinger but no biggie there. I plan to do something along those lines. Waiting until after xmas to see if I have any money for it

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 29 2015, 09:21 PM

"Good enough for awhile" lol I totally understand!

I got some time to goof off in the garage today. I figured it was time to mount my Stinger ECU. Up until today it was just laying in the rear trunk. The reason it hasn't been permanently mounted is when I got my Stinger it didn't come with anyway to mount it. After a little time at the mill *presto* mounting bracket.

Posted by: rnellums Nov 29 2015, 09:50 PM

Looking super classic ray!

Posted by: JRust Nov 29 2015, 10:36 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 29 2015, 07:21 PM)

"Good enough for awhile" lol I totally understand!

I got some time to goof off in the garage today. I figured it was time to mount my Stinger ECU. Up until today it was just laying in the rear trunk. The reason it hasn't been permanently mounted is when I got my Stinger it didn't come with anyway to mount it. After a little time at the mill *presto* mounting bracket.

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 30 2015, 06:42 AM

I could probably do that. They are not perfect, I made them from some scrap that I had laying around.

Posted by: Mueller Nov 30 2015, 04:07 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 29 2015, 07:21 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Nov 30 2015, 04:37 PM

No "void warranty" label was harmed in the assembly of this part.

Posted by: JRust Nov 30 2015, 04:42 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Nov 30 2015, 04:42 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 5 2015, 09:20 AM

I decided on a set of wheels for my little red car. I really dig them. I need to find some center caps for them. I wrapped them with a new set of Goodyear eagle A/S 195-65-R15. I ordered a complete set of Boge shocks and struts from PMB. I should have them very soon. I am pairing them with a stock front swaybar and 140# springs. I hope the current body roll will be history very soon. I was looking for a bit stiffer ride but nothing abusive. We will see how that works out. I plan on dropping the front end once I get the new strut inserts installed.

My current transmission is out of a 95 legacy and there is something wrong with the shifting mechanism. The gears are very hard to find. 5th gear takes some fiddling to find. Ross am I spent some time trying to adjust the problem away with no success. We think there is something wrong with the guts of the tranny. We are heading to the Pick-and-Pull tomorrow to harvest a new 5MT. I am going to try and find a 2000-2003 tranny.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 5 2015, 10:42 AM

One more picture.

Posted by: jimkelly Dec 5 2015, 11:53 AM

I am running the same wheels and same size tires. I removed my rear sway bar cause my car felt uncontrollable with it and removing seemed like an improvement. but my car needs a 4 wheel alignment and my tires sidewalls seem real soft. curious to hear how well you car handles. i'd do the alignment but $250 is holding me back but this is the cheapest quote I got

I plan on going real low with my 75 car, I will run 195x50x15 on it to eliminate the soft sidewall issue, probably get Dunlop direzza tires for it as well.


Attached image(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 12 2015, 01:36 PM

I finally installed the LED turn signal upgrade that I purchased from Spoke. I am pretty impressed! They much brighter then the stock bulbs. The build quality of the boards is excellent. Thanks Spoke!

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 14 2015, 08:10 PM

I picked up a new parts hauler for 914 parts. It is a 2002 wrx with 90,000 miles on it. I picked it up from a good friend. He upgraded the car to a Cobb Tuning stage 2 which includes a Cobb AccessPort and 3" turbo back exhaust. The down pipe is Cobb and the exhaust is a Borla hush. According to Cobb it should be putting down about 280Hp and 285 foot pounds of torque. It moves out pretty good. It is a blast to flog around town.

Posted by: JRust Dec 14 2015, 08:21 PM

Looks more like an engine donor

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 14 2015, 08:25 PM

Hehe I thought the same thing!

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 19 2015, 03:17 PM

Time for a little suspension work. I am working on replacing the shocks/struts and springs. The rear coil overs came out pretty easy. From what I have read the fronts are a bit more work. I guess I will find out very shortly. I am off to the FLAPS to grab a spring compressor.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 19 2015, 04:50 PM

I removed one of the rear springs from the shock and found a completely rotten rubber part under the top spring hat. I think it is a bump stop. Anyone know where I can order a replacement?

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 19 2015, 05:17 PM

False alarm. I figured it out. It was the old rubber wiper that sits on top of the shock.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 25 2015, 12:43 PM

I completed the replacement of all four shocks and installed 140# springs yesterday. All four of the original shocks were leaking and the front drivers side shock felt like it was completely out of fluid. With it removed from the car, I could full extend it and as soon as I released it the shock shaft would full collapse with no resistance. I took my 914 out for a Christmas test drive this morning. Wow what a difference.

Make shift strut support.



Next project is to install the front swaybar that I purchased from Garold. I hope to have that completed next week.

Posted by: rnellums Dec 25 2015, 12:53 PM

Good to hear man!!! How is the ride height?

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 25 2015, 01:23 PM

Good question? I am not sure. The front end was a bit high before I pulled it out of the garage. I thought I would check it out when I got back. I want to see if it would settle a bit after the drive. I got a bit distracted on the way back trying to get it put away because it started to snow. Next time I pull the WRX out of the garage and get it out of the way I will snap a picture of the ride height.

Posted by: JRust Dec 25 2015, 04:55 PM

At least now when you go to adjust it. You know if it won't lower it isn't your struts that are the problem . If it isn't lowered already I am sure a little adjustment up front will do the trick. To bad about the snow. Was sunny here today. Well sort of. So I took the 914 for a quick 20min run. Still a little slick out so did some minor drifting around a few corners. Felt good

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 25 2015, 07:52 PM

Jamie, I thought you drifting license was suspended! You be careful with that beautiful car.

Be on the look out late next week for a set of ECU brackets.

Posted by: 76-914 Dec 25 2015, 10:05 PM

You'll notice a big difference with that front sway bar, too. IIRC, I bought mine from Garold as well.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 25 2015, 10:13 PM

I am looking forward to it. It already drives so much nicer than before.

I have purchased a few things from Garold. He is great guy.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 26 2015, 11:57 AM

The LED conversion is complete. This morning I installed the tail light LED boards that purchased from Spoke. I am very impressed. They are very bright and supper easy to install. They are an excellent upgrade and in my opinion money well spent.

Posted by: 914forme Dec 26 2015, 02:50 PM

Nice, and I agree, waiting on the GB to come open again.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 27 2015, 03:20 PM

It is pretty cold in the garage today so I decided to do a little work inside the house on my 914 seats. I am installing heated seat inserts and new seat vinyl kits from 914 Rubber. So far I have both bottom cushions completed and one of the seats completely stripped. The foam is in pretty good shape for being over 40 years old.

Posted by: 76-914 Dec 27 2015, 08:42 PM

Bun Warmers. Your going to those. I think I stole mine for <$50 but after having them I would gladly shell out twice that much.

Posted by: A&P Mech Dec 27 2015, 09:51 PM

I am hoping that they take the chill off this summer when I am buzzing around up in the mountains. I plan on adding heat but it is pretty low on the "to do list". The big items left on the list are: brakes, mount the ECU, put the interior back in and buy/install gauges.

Posted by: A&P Mech Mar 20 2016, 08:58 PM

This weekend I tackled another item on the 914 "to do" list. I worked on getting my ECU mounted and the associated wiring sorted. When I decided to mount the ECU in the rear trunk, I wanted to be able to drop the engine without fishing a bunch of wire out of the trunk. The only solution that I could come up with was to connect the ECU to the engine with cannon plugs. So that is was I did. With the twist of 3 cannon plugs the engine is completely disconnected and ready to drop.

Posted by: rnellums Mar 20 2016, 09:20 PM

I absolutely love what you are doing with this man! Really inspiring stuff!!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 26 2016, 04:22 PM

Hey give me a brake! Well that is exactly what Mr. Eric Shea did! " Thank you Sir!" I am getting ready to replace my brake system with all new Rotors, Pads, Calipers, Master Cylinder and Bearings! I have to say the Calipers that I got from PMB are absolutely beautiful. I almost think they are to nice for my car! I have be driving my car almost every day since I put the Subaru in it. It is so fun to drive, and now it should stop on a dime.

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 27 2016, 08:01 AM

Sweet. You gotta love eye candy when it improves your ride. Mine too, became a daily driver once I did the conversion. It's been dry docked for a couple of weeks now and man I miss it. What's left on your "to do" list?

Posted by: Mueller Jun 27 2016, 08:40 AM

Pretty brake parts...I like your ECU mounting as well, great job!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 27 2016, 07:08 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 27 2016, 08:01 AM)

Sweet. You gotta love eye candy when it improves your ride. Mine too, became a daily driver once I did the conversion. It's been dry docked for a couple of weeks now and man I miss it. What's left on your "to do" list?

Posted by: 914forme Jun 27 2016, 07:36 PM

No quite what your looking for

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 27 2016, 07:40 PM

No, but I do like it.

Kent, Why are you in "Dry Dock"?

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 27 2016, 09:31 PM

One down, three to go. They are sure pretty.

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 28 2016, 04:35 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jun 27 2016, 06:40 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 28 2016, 09:44 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Jun 28 2016, 04:35 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jun 27 2016, 06:40 PM)

No, but I do like it.

Kent, Why are you in "Dry Dock"?

This happened! http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=286795

Posted by: rnellums Jun 28 2016, 09:57 PM

I think shea stocks those!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 2 2016, 04:36 PM

I am working on replacing the Brake master cylinder as part of a complete brake job and decided it was a good time to get side tracked. Time for some new Pedal bushings.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 2 2016, 07:41 PM

The master cylinder is now installed. Wow the reservoir lines were a total PITA! It sure seem like that connection solution could have use a little more engineering.

Posted by: JRust Jul 2 2016, 09:14 PM

Yeah I absolutely hate doing the MC lines. On my v8 car the darn lines kept leaking. After replacing it multiple times. I finally figured out there was enough flex from my pedal use through the wall. That it would pop my lines out after a month or so. If you have someone in your car push your pedal's with you underneath. you'd be surprised how much flex there may be. McMark made me a brace. After that no more problems for me. Basically had something attach around the rack that had an arm that stuck out under the MC. Made it solid & no more issue. May not be necessary for you but something to look for.

I spent a good 4 hours in my car driving today. Gorgeous day today & was top down the whole drive. Loved every minute of it

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 3 2016, 06:38 AM

I was getting a fair amount of flex as well so I fabricated this little bracket. I am getting zero flex or movement! The master cylinder is rock solid.

Posted by: Chris H. Jul 3 2016, 07:53 AM

Yeah that bracket should certainly do it . Looking good my man! Were you swapping the exhaust out or was that someone else?

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 3 2016, 08:22 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jul 3 2016, 07:53 AM)

Yeah that bracket should certainly do it . Looking good my man! Were you swapping the exhaust out or was that someone else?

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 23 2016, 06:01 PM

I completed the muffler swap and what a huge improvement! I do believe it was the best $38 bucks that I have spent on the car so far. The exhaust note went from loud and tinny to deep and pretty quiet. .

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 23 2016, 06:10 PM

Today I started the fabrication of a center console. I am kind of enjoying melting metal so I decided to fab it out of angle iron. Digging around in my old parts pile I found an arm rest extension that I purchased for a WRX several years ago. It appears to be a good fit for the 914 so it will be the basis of the center console.

Posted by: Chris H. Jul 23 2016, 06:30 PM

How did I miss that reply? Anyway yes the muffler makes a HUGE difference doesn't it? Need a decent sized one with Subarus to quiet things down. I need to make a console myself. Think I will just boost up the stock center bin. Looking good!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 30 2016, 05:23 PM

I use my phone to stream music to my stereo and as a GPS speedometer. This kills the battery in my phone pretty quick. So until I can get the war department to authorize the purchase of SpeedHut gauges, I had to find another solution. I decided to install a USB outlet in the dash. I don't smoke and don't plan on starting, so I removed the cigarette lighter and installed the USB outlet in the same location.

It works pretty good.

Posted by: Andyrew Jul 30 2016, 06:06 PM

Very nice! I like the stubby USB cord as well.

Posted by: 914forme Jul 31 2016, 09:28 AM

looks great.

BTW, what car is that console box part out of? I know where to get steel tubing from,

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 31 2016, 02:29 PM

Thanks. I really like the arm rest. It is at the perfect height and it adds some storage. The wife even commented that it was a huge improvement. Once I get the center console completed, it should look good also.

It is out of a 06-07 Subaru WRX. I found an example on eBay .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141824995088?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D53601919689_324272%2526itemid%253D141824995088%2526targetid%253D186360211689%2526rpc%253D0.25%2526rpc_upld_id%253D73618%2526device%253Dt%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F141824995088%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9028758%2526poi%253D9028755%2526campaignid%253D239125209%2526adgroupid%253D14978428809%2526rlsatarget%253Daud-155210513289%253Apla-186360211689%2526gclid%253DCjwKEAjww_a8BRDB-O-OqZb_vRASJAA9yrc5JyK_CP8vf8H0_27rfC5HhUJ2dTJw0RCtrTjHO1jn7RoCoy3w_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1069922351012&ul_noapp=true

Posted by: JRust Jul 31 2016, 04:22 PM

Center console is looking good. In seeing yours I forgot I never updated my thread when I was building mine. I included a pic here. Mine isn't quite done yet. Going to add a forward piece that connect to the underside of the dash. Adding a nice solid cup holder, Cell phone holder & my Fuel Pressure guage . I made my center console have a total of 3 storage sections. The rear one is the deepest as the cables are the lowest. The middle one is about 2 " deep. Then around my shifter I have about a 1" lip. Give's more place to keep random stuff. Still don't like my shift boot but haven't looked for a better one as of yet.

Hoping to see your setup in Person at Red Rocks. Still not a lock to come but I am trying


Attached image(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 31 2016, 06:38 PM

Your center console looks great! I am planning to add a cup holder to the front of mine as well. I sure hope to see you at the RRC. Ross is planning on it as well as Scotty and myself. Ross has a roommate and we have him convinced to buy a 914. We are going to try and do a Subaru six conversion on it starting next week and have it ready to drive to the RRC. There maybe 4 water cooled outlaws coming from our Hood. Lol

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 4 2016, 09:33 PM

Well it has been about a week since I have drilled any new holes in my car. I was starting to have withdrawals so out to the garage I went. I pulled the fuel tank and got to work installing a swaybar. I was able to get all the holes located and drilled this evening. I did spend a few minutes making a tool that would allow me to accurately locate and center punch the center clearance hole.




I hope to finish it up tomorrow night. I still need to fabricate and weld one drop link U bracket. The drivers side has one but the passenger side doesn't?

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 4 2016, 09:58 PM

Looks good. You'll love the front sway bar. Are you welding that flange? Pulling the gas tank is painless now, huh? I can pull or re-install mine in 10 mins. I know Ross bought another 6 but are you going to a 6 as well or is your friend? .
EDIT:

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 5 2016, 06:30 AM

Thank you for the birthday wishes! I am really looking forward to the swaybar. From what I've read it really makes a big difference in handling.

I was able to purchase some 1" wide 0.125" steel strap from the local hardware store. It is about 0.025" thicker than the OEM U bracket but should work fine. I am planning to weld it on to the A arm, is that a bad idea? I am open to other solutions.

The fuel tank was definitely easier to remove then before. My electric fuel pump is pretty easy to get to now. I just pulled a fuel line and powered up the pump. It emptied the tank in about 2mins. My garage still smells like a petroleum refinery. The pump got 99% of fuel out but there always seems to be a little in the lines. It's a good thing that the war department is out of town this week! She might have declared war on me because of the smell. Haha.

I want to put a six in mine but not sure if I can get the funds reallocated right now. I'm still trying to get the purchase of new gauges approved.

Posted by: 914forme Aug 5 2016, 07:57 AM

Kent was referring to the sway bar mount. to the body, not the U tabs. It is pretty thin metal there, and it is know to rip out with larger sway bars installed. In reality it should not matter, it is the sway bar binding in the bushings that causes this issue. Simple way is to make sure the business do not bind. I did this via free axial bearings, my sway bar has no binding what so ever.

For your suspension tabs, yes you can make them. I just ordered another set from Paragon the last time I got some stuff from then, a little more $$. I did not have to spend time bending a packet an aligning the holes.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 11:26 AM

Lookie what the nice guy in the brown truck delivered to the house yesterday!

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 11:33 AM

You added your reflection to the glass???? WOW!

Just kidding. Looks awesome. You will love those. PM me with questions. What color night lighting did you go with?

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 11:44 AM

It was so you could see my smiling face! HAHA I went with the standard white lighting. I almost ordered the neon green dial faces. The wife talked me out of it. I am sure I will have a few questions. I know that I will have to figure out the oil pressure thing. My ECU doesn't use it so I am wondering if I can just install the speed hut sender in place of the OEM unit? I think the threads maybe different.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 12:01 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 26 2016, 12:44 PM)

It was so you could see my smiling face! HAHA I went with the standard white lighting. I almost ordered the neon green dial faces. The wife talked me out of it. I am sure I will have a few questions. I know that I will have to figure out the oil pressure thing. My ECU doesn't use it so I am wondering if I can just install the speed hut sender in place of the OEM unit? I think the threads maybe different.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 12:08 PM

Chris you are amazing! I really appreciate all the help! I wish you and Kent could make the RRC. It would be a ton of fun to meet you guys!

I found this on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWZ3TUI/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3Q5L29ROA0I31

If the speedhut gauge doesn't need the OEM sender, I will just remove it. Thoughts?

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 12:20 PM

No problem. Plenty of people have helped me!

Yeah that looks right! It's the ECU that you need to verify does/does not require an oil pressure connection. I can tell you the Speedhut gauge doesn't need both. If you want a low pressure warning light you set that up yourself just by saying "when pressure gets to X turn the little orange light on". The question is, is the current sender hooked up to the wiring harness now and is the Stinger reading it? Does it care if you take it out? Doubt it since all it will tell you is whether the pressure is VERY low or not.

So whichever one you end up with, the critical thing is, screw that adapter in to the block VERY easily and slowly. That is brass and you are screwing it into aluminum. That way you know it fits and that it's perfectly straight.

Yeah I'm gonna get to more events someday. It would be great to meet more of you guys.

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 12:27 PM

Wait...if you end up needing to keep the stock sender you can just find one like the one on e-bay. It has both 1/8 BSPT and 1/8 NPT female threads. I missed that. BTW the fuel gauge works with the stock sender but you have to program it manually. You have to run the tank DRY to get a perfect empty reading and then fill it full before it will read right. Other than that it's all pretty easy.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 12:30 PM

I was going to ask you about that. I was thinking about pulling the fuel tank sender out to program it. I am assuming you could just move the float by hand?

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 12:32 PM

Also, did you remove a bunch of wiring for the stock gauge lights?

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 12:39 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 26 2016, 01:30 PM)

Posted by: 914forme Aug 26 2016, 12:42 PM

The sender is inside a tube,but all you have to do if it is working properly is turn it upside down. It is not hard to get into the sender though to clean it up and do a little R&R. Of course I did not learn mine was stuck until I ran out of fuel.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 12:44 PM

Sweet! Love the dimmer idea! Well it may make the 914 purist cringe but I have been cutting on this car from the start no stopping now. So if you have a weak stomach for that sort of thing you might want to tune out for the the next update.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 26 2016, 12:48 PM

QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 26 2016, 12:42 PM)

The sender is inside a tube,but all you have to do if it is working properly is turn it upside down. It is not hard to get into the sender though to clean it up and do a little R&R. Of course I did not learn mine was stuck until I ran out of fuel.

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 26 2016, 05:08 PM

[quote name='Chris H.' date='Aug 26 2016, 11:01 AM' post='2390471']
I THINK since you are running an aftermarket ECU you don't have to have the idiot list sender connected. Might want to verify that. If you want to keep both connected PM me and I will get you the part number for mine. I am running the stock ECU so I have both connected still.

Wait a minute. There's an idiot list? Will you check to see if me or Elyut is on that?

Posted by: Chris H. Aug 26 2016, 07:17 PM

LOL I meant light. I'm near the top of the former list .

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 05:45 PM

I spent the entire weekend working on the car. I was able to knock some big items of the "to do" list. The heated seat and the SpeedHut gauges are installed and working. I also completed the center console. My hazard lights were blowing the fuse everytime the switch was pulled to the on position. It turns out the contacts for the light bulb were shorted inside the knob. It is now sorted out and functional.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 05:46 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 05:48 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 06:02 PM

The SpeedHut gauges I ordered were 4" for the quad, speedometer and a 4.5" tach. They were smaller than the OEM gauges and I didn't like the way they fit in the stock panel. So, I decided to do a little cutting to achieve a better fit. I cut the back off the OEM panel to allow for a piece of aluminum to be placed behind it. After a little time on the mill "Presto" a better fit.

Posted by: mepstein Sep 5 2016, 06:11 PM

Nice job!

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 07:11 PM

Thanks!

Posted by: matthepcat Sep 5 2016, 07:18 PM

Love your center console and shifter set up. Looks great.

I had a set of those gauges on my last two cars. Love them.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 5 2016, 08:56 PM

Thanks! The center console came out way better than expected. I think it looks really cool. I am pretty happy with it.

So far my impression of the SpeedHut gauges is that it was money well spent! I love the GPS speedometer. It is so cool that it does 1\4mile and zero to sixty times. I am looking forward to the altitude read out for the RRC next Thursday.

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 5 2016, 09:14 PM

daaaaannnngg that center console is nice. Nice work on the gauge panel too. I need to do that myself. Mine is plastic so I'll cut some slits and epoxy a few tabs in to hold them better.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 6 2016, 05:29 AM

Thanks Chris! The one criticism I have with the SpeedHut gauges is the threaded body of the gauge is larger than the diameter than interfaces the panel. So if you cut the hole to clear the threads the gauges will float a bit when they are fully seated. (I know that I am being a bit picky) I am sure that this would be a non-issue if I would have use a thicker material for the backing plate. Either way it is time to put some miles on the car.

What type of hose did you use for your clutch master cylinder reservoir? I used fuel hose and after a little googling, it turns out that this is a bit of a no-no. I guess fuel hose is not brake fluid compatible. The hose will eventually break down and start to leak. I ordered some tygon tubing to replace it. The nipple on the master cylinder is metic (7mm) and it measures around 0.270" . The closest size I found was 0.250. I am hoping it will stretch a little bit? I plan to replace it tonight.

Posted by: Chris H. Sep 6 2016, 07:33 AM

I just went to a flaps and asked for hydraulic hose. Its rubber but very HARD and inflexible compared to fuel hose. If your solution doesn't work out let me know and I can look underneath. Can't see any markings on it topside.

It should definitely stretch .02.

Posted by: Cairo94507 Sep 6 2016, 07:42 AM

A&P Mech - That console looks perfect. I like the gauges too. Very nicely done. That console looks as if it should have come from the factory.

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 6 2016, 12:13 PM

Cairo, thanks for the kind words!

Posted by: Andyrew Sep 6 2016, 01:15 PM

Great job on the center console!

Posted by: JRust Sep 6 2016, 02:21 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 5 2016, 07:56 PM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Sep 6 2016, 08:48 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Sep 6 2016, 02:21 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 5 2016, 07:56 PM)

Thanks! The center console came out way better than expected. I think it looks really cool. I am pretty happy with it.

So far my impression of the SpeedHut gauges is that it was money well spent! I love the GPS speedometer. It is so cool that it does 1\4mile and zero to sixty times. I am looking forward to the altitude read out for the RRC next Thursday.

LOL! I have the same gauges & didn't even know it had those options. Guess I need to read my manual . Very cool looking forward to seeing it in person. We'll have to have a little race as our setup is close to the same

Posted by: sixnotfour Sep 6 2016, 09:06 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 21 2017, 03:09 PM

Well I am sure it happens to us all at some point, the quest for more power has me rethinking my current engine choice. The 2.5L 4 cylinder was fun, but it is time for a 3.0L six. Thanks to Ross with his throttle body relocation it is now possible to drop an Subaru EZ30 into a 914 without cutting a hole in the trunk. So the quest is on for a low mileage ez30.

I will be selling my 2.5 ej253 with all of the Outfront bits. I will eventually get it listed in the classifieds.

Posted by: JRust Jan 21 2017, 04:42 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jan 21 2017, 01:09 PM)

Well I am sure it happens to us all at some point, the quest for more power has me rethinking my current engine choice. The 2.5L 4 cylinder was fun, but it is time for a 3.0L six. Thanks to Ross with his throttle body relocation it is now possible to drop an Subaru EZ30 into a 914 without cutting a hole in the trunk. So the quest is on for a low mileage ez30.

I will be selling my 2.5 ej253 with all of the Outfront bits. I will eventually get it listed in the classifieds.

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 22 2017, 04:40 PM

That was fast .

Posted by: rnellums Jan 22 2017, 04:44 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 22 2017, 03:40 PM)

That was fast .

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 22 2017, 05:23 PM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 22 2017, 03:40 PM)

That was fast .

Posted by: JRust Jan 22 2017, 07:45 PM

Apparently it only takes a weekend to do that complete conversion so why the heck not. I guess you need to just wait until the week before route 66 & you should be good to go right Ross

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 22 2017, 07:48 PM

Laughing my ass off!

Posted by: rnellums Jan 22 2017, 07:49 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 22 2017, 06:45 PM)

Apparently it only takes a weekend to do that complete conversion so why the heck not. I guess you need to just wait until the week before route 66 & you should be good to go right Ross

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 22 2017, 07:51 PM

Sounds like we could do it the morning of?

Posted by: JRust Jan 22 2017, 07:55 PM

QUOTE(rnellums @ Jan 22 2017, 05:49 PM)

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 22 2017, 06:45 PM)

Apparently it only takes a weekend to do that complete conversion so why the heck not. I guess you need to just wait until the week before route 66 & you should be good to go right Ross

Week before? All the hard stuff is already done, just need to swap the motor, I'm thinking 3, maybe 4 hours?

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 23 2017, 12:18 AM

Yeah putting it in there should be a snap. Just have to fab an exhaust and wire it. Does the EMS Stinger run wasted spark ?

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 23 2017, 06:43 AM

I did talk to the Outfront guys and they did confirm that the Stinger will run an EZ30. If I was going to go EZ30R I would probably use the Stinger. I plan on using the OEM ECU for the EZ30D. I will try to sell the Stinger, wiring harness, oil pan, axles and alternator bracket in the classifieds or on eBay.

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 23 2017, 10:21 AM

If your running A/C I'll post the "work around" pulley for the PS pump. My PS pump bearings went about 5,000 miles once I removed the vanes from the pump. I'm pretty sure they added support to the shaft and the bearing so I made a something that uses the OEM PS pump bracket. It allows you to keep the OEM 6 rib belt.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 24 2017, 06:51 AM

I haven't really thought about A\C. I would like to see the solution that you came up with.

With this motor swap, I do want to get some kind of heat in the car. Ross went with an electric heater that looks pretty easy to install. It provides instant heat and no water lines to hook up. http://dcthermal.com/product/sd12-5000-12-volt-ducted-heater/
It is a bit pricey and it pulls a lot of current. 50 amps!

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 24 2017, 08:56 AM

The heater gets hot within 2 minutes since Subaru has the dedicated heater circuit. Welcome to the 6 madness. Your going to love that engine. And since your going w/ the factory ECU, I'll bet it's back on the road very quickly. Good choice.

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 24 2017, 09:10 AM

I'm looking at putting heat in myself. If you search the older posts you'll find solutions that allow putting the heater core into the stock 914 fresh air box. Based on my research the core that sounds best to me is the mid-90's (94+) Mustang core. It fits in the box and the lines run out the side so minimal cutting.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-00-Ford-Mustang-Heater-Core-/130908286183?hash=item1e7abdece7:g:Z7MAAOSwNyFWfGqn&vxp=mtr

Then you need a heater valve. I think I stole this from Mike Bellis but if you use a Rabbit valve you can hook it up to your stock controls.

It's cheap too:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Audi-VW-Heater-Control-Valve-Cable-Operated-171-819-809E-/361077222628?hash=item5411e12ce4:g:iDUAAOSwp5JWUsUn&vxp=mtr

And to run the 5/8 lines I picked up these tees to run to run the lines from underneath just before where the main ones go through the trunk so they can go straight up to the core and back down.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kats-28114-Lower-Radiator-Hose-Connector-1-1-4-Hy-Capacity-part-HK28114-/111679637210?hash=item1a00a006da:g:gW8AAOSwpDdVY1Sg

The only thing to consider is how to ensure good flow. There are small pumps you can get to assist if need be.

If you add all this up it's what...$80 ish so if you can get the system Ross used for $140 it might be a good option. The stock 914 rear blower motor draws quite a bit of current and would not be used in either scenario so you could wire the system in to that.

WAIT...I just added one of those systems to a cart...$255. Still not too bad for plug and play.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 25 2017, 06:51 AM

Wow Chris thanks for all the info! I do like the idea of using the stock fresh air box and the price makes it a very tempting option.

I would have to troubleshoot my fresh air fan. It doesn't work. I took the box out and cleaned it up. I can get the fan to run with an external power supply but not with the controls in the car. It is time to pull the control levers out and do some troubleshooting.

Posted by: JRust Jan 25 2017, 03:06 PM

Just had a buddy contact me about a WRX motor if you haven't totally decided to do your six. So if you aren't set on your six. He was getting set to put it in his 914 when plans changed.

Posted by: rnellums Jan 25 2017, 03:08 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 25 2017, 02:06 PM)

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 25 2017, 05:32 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jan 24 2017, 05:51 AM)

I haven't really thought about A\C. I would like to see the solution that you came up with.

With this motor swap, I do want to get some kind of heat in the car. Ross went with an electric heater that looks pretty easy to install. It provides instant heat and no water lines to hook up. http://dcthermal.com/product/sd12-5000-12-volt-ducted-heater/
It is a bit pricey and it pulls a lot of current. 50 amps!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jan 25 2017, 06:55 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 25 2017, 02:06 PM)

Posted by: rnellums Jan 25 2017, 07:10 PM

Mixed reviews so far on it. I got it up and running today, and it certainly doesn't blow me away with heat. In the 15 minute drive home there is definitely a difference in inside temperature, but I'm sure less than with traditional heat.

It's not plumbed up to the defrost vents yet (just circulating in cabin) so maybe that will change things a bit.

I'm not convinced to keep it yet.

Posted by: mgp4591 Jan 26 2017, 12:20 AM

QUOTE(rnellums @ Jan 25 2017, 06:10 PM)

Posted by: Chris H. Jan 26 2017, 08:58 AM

I'm just about to do my heater so you can watch me screw mine up in about 2 weeks and then improve on it . The only concern I would have is flow with mine. How does the fluid come from Waaayyy down low up to the highest point with any velocity? The previous posts say that as long as you have it plumbed with the flow of the water pump it should work ok.

Hey BTW I also learned that the occasional "automatic ECU stall" that comes from using an auto ECU with a manual car might be fixed by just installing a switch at the clutch that tells the ECU when the clutch is in, thereby in "neutral" keeping the idle stable. Just FYI since the manual ECUs tend to be more expensive.

Posted by: 76-914 Jan 26 2017, 09:32 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 26 2017, 06:58 AM)

Posted by: JRust Jan 26 2017, 10:24 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jan 26 2017, 06:58 AM)

I'm just about to do my heater so you can watch me screw mine up in about 2 weeks and then improve on it . The only concern I would have is flow with mine. How does the fluid come from Waaayyy down low up to the highest point with any velocity? The previous posts say that as long as you have it plumbed with the flow of the water pump it should work ok.

Hey BTW I also learned that the occasional "automatic ECU stall" that comes from using an auto ECU with a manual car might be fixed by just installing a switch at the clutch that tells the ECU when the clutch is in, thereby in "neutral" keeping the idle stable. Just FYI since the manual ECUs tend to be more expensive.

Posted by: jd74914 Jan 26 2017, 10:39 AM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jan 26 2017, 11:24 AM)

I had my heater in the stock airbox before I screwed it all up trying to get A/C in there as well. I just have a t from my radiator lines below. It absolutely gave out plenty of heat. I also had a shut off valve under my hood. So when it wasn't cold outside I would completely shut the flow of hot water off. Absolutely worked great. I have kicked myself multiple times for screwing up that setup . MY new a/c Box McMark made is sitting in it's space now. I haven't done a damn thing to get it hooked up though. Waiting on my motor swap to do the a/c. I've thought of having another heater core made & swapping back as I just capped my lines there. So be super easy to get hooked back up. Would have been much handier over the last year to have the heat

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 06:27 AM

Look what followed me home yesterday. 3.0L six.




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Posted by: 76-914 Apr 1 2017, 08:11 AM

Did somebody get bit by the Horsepower Bug?

Posted by: 1stworks Apr 1 2017, 08:46 AM

Nice

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 09:46 AM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 1 2017, 08:11 AM)

Did somebody get bit by the Horsepower Bug?

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 1 2017, 12:24 PM

I've got 500 miles on that power steering pump by-pass. Once I get 1000 miles I'll get you the info you need to by pass yours. Lets you run the factory size belt. < $60 in parts. BTW, your going to enjoy that engine. Amazingly enough it is only 1.5" longer that the 2.5 it is replacing. You've probably driven Ross' so I needn't describe the ride. Kent

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 02:08 PM

2.5L is out.

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 02:09 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 02:15 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 1 2017, 12:24 PM)

I've got 500 miles on that power steering pump by-pass. Once I get 1000 miles I'll get you the info you need to by pass yours. Lets you run the factory size belt. < $60 in parts. BTW, your going to enjoy that engine. Amazingly enough it is only 1.5" longer that the 2.5 it is replacing. You've probably driven Ross' so I needn't describe the ride. Kent

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 1 2017, 05:02 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 1 2017, 01:15 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 1 2017, 12:24 PM)

I've got 500 miles on that power steering pump by-pass. Once I get 1000 miles I'll get you the info you need to by pass yours. Lets you run the factory size belt. < $60 in parts. BTW, your going to enjoy that engine. Amazingly enough it is only 1.5" longer that the 2.5 it is replacing. You've probably driven Ross' so I needn't describe the ride. Kent

Sounds great!

I have driven Ross' sliver car. It is pretty awesome and the reason for the swap. We have got to get the subie powered group together at some point. Are you thinking RRC this year?

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 07:12 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 07:13 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 1 2017, 09:20 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 1 2017, 05:02 PM)

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 1 2017, 01:15 PM)

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 1 2017, 12:24 PM)

I've got 500 miles on that power steering pump by-pass. Once I get 1000 miles I'll get you the info you need to by pass yours. Lets you run the factory size belt. < $60 in parts. BTW, your going to enjoy that engine. Amazingly enough it is only 1.5" longer that the 2.5 it is replacing. You've probably driven Ross' so I needn't describe the ride. Kent

Sounds great!

I have driven Ross' sliver car. It is pretty awesome and the reason for the swap. We have got to get the subie powered group together at some point. Are you thinking RRC this year?

Probably not going to RRC this year. IIRC, it is 900+ miles from here. So spill the beans. Will you be running the stock ECU? If so, you can bump the idle speed 50 rpm by grounding the brown wire to the power steering pump. There are a couple of more I can't remember at this moment. What are you doing for exhaust? You know you can buy the header exhaust flanges from OutFront. ~$45 ea. Are you installing AC?

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 5 2017, 06:33 PM

With a little help from the Denver 914 outlaw crew, the 3.0L is now installed in the car. Ok, I just made up that outlaw group but the four guys in attendance all own 914 conversions.



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Posted by: 76-914 Apr 5 2017, 08:16 PM

Are you sitting in it making vroom vroom noises?

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 5 2017, 08:52 PM

I didn't think anyone would be able to hear me! LOL

Posted by: JRust Apr 5 2017, 09:14 PM

Might not run with your intake capped

Posted by: ThePaintedMan Apr 6 2017, 03:55 AM

Awesome! I've always enjoyed this build, now even more!

What are you planning to do with the 2.5 and the wiring harness?

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 6 2017, 06:11 AM

QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Apr 6 2017, 03:55 AM)

Awesome! I've always enjoyed this build, now even more!

What are you planning to do with the 2.5 and the wiring harness?

Posted by: ThePaintedMan Apr 6 2017, 06:46 AM

That's a pretty smoking deal, but a bit out of my range at the moment. Would be a great option for someone. 165 hp in these cars is night and day different than even the best /4s.

Not to pry, but what type of consumption are we talking about? 1 qt/1000 miles?

GLWTS!

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 6 2017, 07:05 AM

QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Apr 6 2017, 06:46 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 8 2017, 03:07 PM

Working on the Rnellums custom throttle body flip. This allows the installation of an EZ30D without cutting into the trunk for the air filter.

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 8 2017, 03:09 PM

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 18 2017, 01:14 PM

No updates since April 8th!

Posted by: rnellums Apr 18 2017, 03:33 PM

More to come this weekend!

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 18 2017, 08:59 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Apr 18 2017, 01:14 PM)

No updates since April 8th!

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 28 2017, 06:53 AM

I completed the passenger side exhaust (the easy side). I am not what you would call a "great" welder but I think it will work. I hope to complete the drivers side this weekend.

Posted by: A&P Mech Apr 28 2017, 06:54 AM

Posted by: 76-914 Apr 28 2017, 07:42 AM

With < 3ft of space to quieten the exhaust, don't expect any miracles. That being said; mine is quite as a mouse from 1800 to 2300rpm. Can't wait to hear your system. One of us will come up with the perfect system!

Posted by: A&P Mech May 7 2017, 09:08 PM

It's Alive! Ross and I fired up the EZ30D in my car for the first time tonight. It lit right off. I would have to say the increase in power is amazing.

Kent, I am pleased to report that the dual dynomax mufflers make for a pretty quiet exhaust note. Ross took some video so I will ask him to post it.

Posted by: 76-914 May 7 2017, 09:15 PM

Congrats. Can't wait to hear it. So you like the power, huh?

Posted by: rnellums May 7 2017, 09:24 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=duBMH7SfTvE

Posted by: rnellums May 7 2017, 09:26 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLKXCVv1WGQ

Posted by: mepstein May 8 2017, 04:54 AM

Congrats!

Posted by: falcor75 May 8 2017, 05:03 AM

Sounds great ! Nice work !

Posted by: jimkelly May 8 2017, 10:20 AM

fan-freakin-tastic

Posted by: flmont May 8 2017, 10:48 AM

Would that be my 3.6 man ,.Iam glad to see it run,..wish it was me.LOL..!!

Posted by: Amenson May 8 2017, 11:16 AM

That sounds awesome, well done.
Did you leave room for a turbo?

Cheers
Scott

Posted by: A&P Mech May 8 2017, 12:06 PM

QUOTE(Amenson @ May 8 2017, 11:16 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech May 8 2017, 12:09 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ May 7 2017, 09:15 PM)

Congrats. Can't wait to hear it. So you like the power, huh?

Posted by: mgp4591 May 8 2017, 01:22 PM

Nice job Ray! There's no replacement for displacement! Well, except, uh, turbos...nitrous....superchargers...
All hell, you know what I mean!

Posted by: A&P Mech May 8 2017, 02:21 PM

QUOTE(flmont @ May 8 2017, 10:48 AM)

Posted by: Chris H. May 8 2017, 02:33 PM

Nice work guys. I remember that feeling when I stepped on it the first time with the EG33. You'll get used to it in a couple of months and then want more!

Posted by: Front yard mechanic May 8 2017, 03:48 PM

I'm stoked and following your foot steps

Posted by: rnellums May 8 2017, 08:10 PM

QUOTE(flmont @ May 8 2017, 10:48 AM)

Posted by: JRust May 8 2017, 09:49 PM

Nice job guys! Great to see you back on the road with the 6. At this rate I'll be lucky to have mine done by Red Rocks

Posted by: flmont May 8 2017, 10:04 PM

Ah...Thats what I wanted to do,..that will be so sweet for sure...!!!!

Posted by: Mueller May 21 2017, 10:51 AM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 6 2017, 05:11 AM)

QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Apr 6 2017, 03:55 AM)

Awesome! I've always enjoyed this build, now even more!

What are you planning to do with the 2.5 and the wiring harness?

I have a ton of pictures if anyone is interested.

Posted by: A&P Mech May 21 2017, 02:17 PM

Oh trust me , Laziness is one of my talents! The war department (wife) has a way of motivating me. " Get the car running or get rid of it"

I would have to say the new setup is pretty awesome. I put the hurt on a Subaru STI yesterday from a 5 mph rolling start. The STI thought that they would try and impress and old man in an old car. Not to day! I broke the tires loose shifting into second. Haha. I had them by 5 or 6 car lengths by the time we hit 85.

I did finally listed the 2.5l in the classifieds for what I have into just the Outfront Motorsports parts. I feel like it is a good deal. Essentially a free motor, alternator and exhaust system. I did put a ton of work into flipping the intake manifold and building custom brackets.

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 14 2017, 07:48 AM

ap

question? if the cradle was 1 inch closer to engine, would the exhaust your're using interfere with cradle?

is you exhaust an ebay special or brand name?

i ask because i am thinking about mass fabricating a cradle along the lines of sawtooth's, in stainless steel, except for the stock subaru trans bracket.

thanks


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Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 14 2017, 08:18 AM

Hey Jim,
I can't be positive but I think it would clear. I don't have the 2.5L installed in my car anymore or I would measure the clearance for you. I did find a few more pictures of the install.

I purchase my header second hand so am I not sure what brand it is. It appears to be the same one in your post.

It would be awesome if you started to offer cradles. It is a definite need in the conversion world.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 14 2017, 08:21 AM

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 14 2017, 08:38 AM

these pics are a big help : )

thank you

Posted by: rhodyguy Jun 15 2017, 12:04 PM

The heat shield is a nice touch

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 15 2017, 12:13 PM

Thanks, the lower hose was pretty close to the header. The heat shield worked like a champ.

Posted by: flmont Jun 15 2017, 07:49 PM

A & P,...who fabbed the cradle,..??

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 16 2017, 06:34 AM

Ian at Coldwater​914.

Posted by: flmont Jun 16 2017, 04:18 PM

Ahh Thanks, must be one of the last one's he has made,..!!

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 24 2017, 06:10 PM

as for your 6 and coldwater's cradle and trans hangers.
did you have to modify the cradle or hangers to fit engine and or trans into your car?
I see you have to make some sweet exhaust from scratch.

your pic




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Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 24 2017, 09:02 PM

No modification to the cradle was necessary to install the 6 cylinder. The coldwater cradle works but there are a few things that I would change if I was going to redesign it.

The area around the exhaust is very tight . It is hard to get the exhaust system to exit the head and clear the cradle.

If you use the stock subaru engine mounts to attach the engine to the cradle, then the motor is soft mounted to the cradle and the the transmission is hard mounted to the cradle via the transmission hangers. The cradle is soft mounted to the car via the stock 914 mounts. I think it would make more sense to solid mount the engine to the cradle and let the cradle soft mount to the car. Or hard mount the cradle to the car and add soft mounts to the transmission hangers. As it is now I feel like a lot of stress is transmitted through the transmission hangers and into the cradle.

Posted by: 914pipe Jun 24 2017, 11:14 PM

QUOTE(rnellums @ May 7 2017, 08:24 PM)

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 25 2017, 04:07 AM

914pipe

see posts 363 and 366 above regarding apmech exhaust on his 6.

jim

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 25 2017, 06:45 AM

I am using two Dynomax mufflers. It really does sound pretty good. I tried to keep it as quiet as possible.
http://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/super-turbo-mufflers/super-turbo-offset-centered-573.html

Posted by: rnellums Jun 25 2017, 07:18 AM

The trick to quiet is small tubes. Iim running 2.5" all the way back and even with three mufflers there is a lot of drone. Sounds great when I'm wailing on it though...

I will be moving to headers like Ray's in the near future. Much more enjoyable all around.

Posted by: flmont Jun 25 2017, 10:52 AM

where do you get headers from,..I have stk manifolds now,..???

Posted by: mgp4591 Jun 25 2017, 11:53 AM

QUOTE(rnellums @ Jun 25 2017, 07:18 AM)

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 25 2017, 12:28 PM

I took a look through my pictures and don't have any of the exhaust aft of the headers. I would snap a few but unfortunately I had to pull the engine back out. The used motor that I bought started to make some very ominous noises that sounded like it was coming from the timing chains. The engine came with a warranty, so the decision was made to return it. I am now on a quest to find a replacement and have not been successful as of yet. It maybe telling me to take the summer off of 914 wrenching and get some other projects completed.

Posted by: mgp4591 Jun 25 2017, 12:40 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jun 25 2017, 12:28 PM)

I took a look through my pictures and don't have any of the exhaust aft of the headers. I would snap a few but unfortunately I had to pull the engine back out. The used motor that I bought started to make some very ominous noises that sounded like it was coming from the timing chains. The engine came with a warranty, so the decision was made to return it. I am now on a quest to find a replacement and have not been successful as of yet. It maybe telling me to take the summer off of 914 wrenching and get some other projects completed.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 25 2017, 09:48 PM

Unfortunately I didn't get to drive it much before I had to pull the motor. I did drive it long enough to know without a doubt that the 3.0L is the right motor for the car!

I will try and get a few pictures of the exhaust system posted early next week.

If I can find a motor it shouldn't take more than a weekend to get it installed and running. The key is finding one.

Posted by: JRust Jun 25 2017, 10:00 PM

Damn Ray. Sorry to hear that man. Sucks to be in summer & not have your 914 to drive. I am in the same boat. Not because of a bad motor. I just haven't had time to put into mine. Still have hopes to make it before summer is over. Just finished moving into our new home. Been a while since we owned a place so that is cool. Unfortunately my heat pump took a shit a week after moving in. Plus I am finding all sorts of crap I have to fix besides. My car budget is pretty shot for quite a while

Posted by: jimkelly Jun 26 2017, 12:51 PM

never noticed this sweet diversion intake pipe

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Apr 8 2017, 02:09 PM)

Posted by: 76-914 Jun 26 2017, 02:51 PM

pm sent

Posted by: A&P Mech Jun 26 2017, 06:31 PM

QUOTE(JRust @ Jun 25 2017, 10:00 PM)

Damn Ray. Sorry to hear that man. Sucks to be in summer & not have your 914 to drive. I am in the same boat. Not because of a bad motor. I just haven't had time to put into mine. Still have hopes to make it before summer is over. Just finished moving into our new home. Been a while since we owned a place so that is cool. Unfortunately my heat pump took a shit a week after moving in. Plus I am finding all sorts of crap I have to fix besides. My car budget is pretty shot for quite a while

Posted by: flmont Jun 26 2017, 06:39 PM

Yea,..That really blows to lose and engine so soon after its installed,I know your drive season is so short,..G Luck !!!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 15 2017, 01:12 PM

I am excited to report that engine #4 is alive and "Jezebel" is road worthy. The wife named the car. I am hoping to put some miles on it before we run out of summer.

Posted by: Mueller Jul 15 2017, 01:17 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jul 15 2017, 12:12 PM)

I am excited to report that engine #4 is alive and "Jezebel" is road worthy. The wife named the car. I am hoping to put some miles on it before we run out of summer.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 15 2017, 01:21 PM

https://youtu.be/kxDVITzJ5lw

Posted by: JRust Jul 15 2017, 06:16 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Jul 15 2017, 12:12 PM)

I am excited to report that engine #4 is alive and "Jezebel" is road worthy. The wife named the car. I am hoping to put some miles on it before we run out of summer.

Posted by: jimkelly Jul 15 2017, 06:18 PM

sweet

Posted by: Fastmover Jul 15 2017, 08:58 PM

Rock on!!!

Posted by: flmont Jul 16 2017, 09:24 AM

I hope you thousand's of trouble FREE miles,..!!!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 29 2017, 01:36 PM

QUOTE(mgp4591 @ Jun 25 2017, 11:53 AM)

QUOTE(rnellums @ Jun 25 2017, 07:18 AM)

The trick to quiet is small tubes. Iim running 2.5" all the way back and even with three mufflers there is a lot of drone. Sounds great when I'm wailing on it though...

I will be moving to headers like Ray's in the near future. Much more enjoyable all around.

2-1/2 is probably overkill considering the displacement and the short run of the exhaust. I like the two outlets in the glasspak but I agree that the small pipe approach is the best for sound control. You'll have all the power you'll need with the header and pipe setup like Rays, especially split like his is and the sound seems to be spot on. I'd like to see more of how the exhaust is run after the header exit pipe... Congrats Ray!

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 29 2017, 01:37 PM

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 29 2017, 01:38 PM

Posted by: jimkelly Jul 30 2017, 06:34 AM

alot of stuff in a small space. nicely done.

return spring on bell crank

do you have this rectangular washer on top of your engine and trans mounts?


Attached image(s)

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 30 2017, 06:51 AM

Jim, you have a sharp eye. The return spring was necessary due to the age of my transmission. It is a 1995 transmission and they were externally sprung back then. The newer transmissions utilize an internal spring.

I am using large area flat washers on the top of my transmission and engine mounts. They are identical to the washers that you see on the bottom of the mounts. I am not sure if that is the correct way of doing things but it works.

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 30 2017, 07:53 AM

Looks great, Ray. There must be 15-20 engine pulls between you and I.

Posted by: A&P Mech Jul 30 2017, 08:07 AM

Would that make us "experts"

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 5 2018, 08:35 PM

Here you go Chris.


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Posted by: Chris H. Aug 5 2018, 08:46 PM

Thanks Ray! Very nice work on the console. Totally integrates the MR2 shifter.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 5 2018, 09:02 PM

Thanks Chris! I will pass on to the wife that you liked the upholstery job.

I have put about 6k on my car. It hauls butt with the 3.0L. It is a ton of fun to drive but I am toying with the idea of selling it. I am starting to look at buying an airplane.

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 5 2018, 09:21 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 5 2018, 08:02 PM)

Thanks Chris! I will pass on to the wife that you liked the upholstery job.

I have put about 6k on my car. It hauls butt with the 3.0L. It is a ton of fun to drive but I am toying with the idea of selling it. I am starting to look at buying an airplane.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 5 2018, 09:33 PM

Thanks Kent! It was a good day.

I would like an RV7. I have been considering a Cessna 172 or Cherokee 180. It seems like either one could be had for about 30k.

Posted by: 76-914 Aug 5 2018, 09:51 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 5 2018, 08:33 PM)

Thanks Kent! It was a good day.

I would like an RV7. I have been considering a Cessna 172 or Cherokee 180. It seems like either one could be had for about 30k.

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 6 2018, 06:43 AM

You are correct, I have not flown an RV yet. It really comes down to interior space and price. I would like to be able to throw a couple of mountain bikes in the back. It is all still very much up in the air.

Posted by: JRust Aug 6 2018, 10:30 AM

You going to Red Rocks next month Ray? I should finally have my car there again. Be good to compare

Posted by: A&P Mech Aug 6 2018, 12:33 PM

I have been considering it. It would be fun to see your car. I will chat with the War Department and see if she is up for the drive.

Posted by: A&P Mech Feb 7 2020, 09:50 PM

Just adding a few photos.

Posted by: A&P Mech Mar 24 2020, 09:00 PM

And so it ends... I wanted to thank everyone for the help and encouragement during this build. I had a ton of fun building and driving this car. It is on it's way to a new owner in California. So for now its " out with the Roo and in with the ?"

Posted by: 76-914 Mar 24 2020, 09:51 PM

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Mar 24 2020, 08:00 PM)

And so it ends... I wanted to thank everyone for the help and encouragement during this build. I had a ton of fun building and driving this car. It is on it's way to a new owner in California. So for now its " out with the Roo and in with the ?"