I've pulled my spark plugs and am trying to use the starter to build oil pressure before firing my engine.
Car has been built from the ground up. Pretty much everything is new. New engine, new flywheel, new/reman Bosch starter & solenoid, new battery cable, new ground cables, new engine wiring harness, etc.. Battery is an Optima that is not new, but is fully charged.
I turn the key and I can hear the starter pinion grinding on the flywheel ring gear. It sounds like a hammerdrill. I shorted the 12V to the switched 12V terminals on the starter with a screwdriver and I get the same grrrrr sound. I've shorted the 12V terminal on the starter to ground and verified that the starter spins freely without the grrrr. So, I think this means that the ignition switch, starter motor, and solenoid all check out.
I pulled the starter and can see the grinding on the flywheel ring gear from where pinion is trying to engage the flywheel. I have nothing else to do today, so Im going to bench test the starter and check the voltage drop across the battery.
I double checked the engine/trans mating surface and everything is flush and tight. I do have the brass bushing on the end of the starter pinion. Everything seems to be bolted up fine.
My battery cable is a 60" piece of #2 stranded welding cable. Battery and trans grounds are also #2 (FLAPS cables). Ground surfaces are clean and tight.
Does this sound like a wiring issue (cables too small) or some kind of alignment issue with the starter and flywheel? Am I not getting enough juice to fully extend the pinion, or is something misaligned?
TIA
thanks. I just bench tested it with jumper cables. The voltage drop across the battery was from ~12V down to ~9.5V, which seems normal. The pinion did extend all the way but did NOT turn at all. I know it's spinning when mounted in the car because it is grinding my flywheel ring gear.
Where are you hooking the cables?
Yep. Bought another one from the FLAPS today. $40. I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks again for the help, everyone.
"$40"? There's your problem. The parts necessary for a properly remanufactured starter are probably more than that, wholesale. Garbage in, garbage out ................
The Cap'n
I hear that, but what other option do I have? There is no local shop here that will rebuild these. All other things being equal I would rather have shaved some more weight with a smaller high torque unit. I figured that a rebuilt Bosch would still be the best longest lasting option for the car. I'll pick the $40 unit up this morning. Should I buy two of them and send one to someone for a proper rebuild to keep on the shelf for when the other new one fails?
Several in the phone book. Don't know anything about them.
Here's one
Charlie's Generator & Starter Service
8711 Greenwell Springs Rd, Baton Rouge, LA 70814 3.94 mi
I've already tried the local shops. Nobody will touch it. The guy above told me that 'he wouldn't work on it if is his own mother brought it in, and that I should go to Autozone and buy another one'.
Chelmsford auto electric
Tyngsboro, Massachusetts
Never fails me, not 40 buck, but fairly reasonable.
I never buy the rebuilt ones, I always make these guys rebuild them.
Rich
Okay, I get the dumbass of the day award for thoroughly testing and trying to use the wrong starter. That starter is an SR11X that I bought for my 356 motor. I put the correct SR17X in the car this morning and everything cranked over just fine. Thanks again for the help.
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