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Posted by: wndsnd Oct 13 2013, 03:12 PM

73 1.7 that I converted to carbs. Set the car up for a better engine someday, but I wanted this to be my sort out from the restoration.

Got the 1.7 in yesterday, and the starter turns it over fine. I have the fuel pump jumper per world instructions, (III on board diagram below) and that works fine.

So now I am on to checking out the new iginition system. Here is what I am working with.



The small red wants to be switched. I am taking it off the relay board pin next to the fuel pump jumper. (I on board diagram below)

To trouble shoot the ignition, the instructions say, disconnect the coil to dist post. Disconnect the large White wire that is used to trigger the ignition. Turn the ignition switch on, and hold the coil wire 1/4 inch from ground, and take the White trigger and ground. A large spark should jump from the coil wire to ground if the ignition is working properly.

So I set this up and turn on the ignition and I see smoke ....... The insulation melted off the small black all the way back to the AL6. Since I used that pick up from the relay board that is switched, but not fused, I must have created a good short.

So my question is, what about the wires that previously went to the old distributor off the relay board.



#7 which is on my car a large solid black I tied this in to the small black and the coil negative. Did this create the short. Should this wire be just insulated off?
Is there a better place to pick up a switch hot that would be fused than terminal (I)?

The #1 black/purple, I spliced into the yellow for the tach.

I also took the ballast resister out of the circuit while trouble shooting all this.

I hope I didn't completely toast the AL6

John

Posted by: ejm Oct 13 2013, 05:12 PM

None of the original wires went to the distributor but two went to the coil.

Yes

The black wire that went to the coils #15 terminal is all the switched power you need. The diagram doesn't call for a fuse and the factory didn't fuse the coil circuit. The Mallory draws very little current and the MSD only uses that to know the key is on, the heavy draw is thru the big red wire.

Posted by: wndsnd Oct 13 2013, 05:33 PM

Hi Ed

Thank you for your help.

So should I splice #7 and AL small red togethrr with black from Mallory coil.
And take itthem off "I"

Posted by: wndsnd Oct 13 2013, 05:42 PM

Like this?

Where do I put the ballast resister?

Posted by: ejm Oct 13 2013, 07:10 PM

None is shown in the diagram and if you are using a coil Mallory considers compatiable with the AL6 there should be no need for one.

Posted by: wndsnd Oct 13 2013, 07:40 PM

Coil was matched to the 6AL. I think it was the Unilite's instructions that said use the ballast.

Anyway I wired the two reds to the old black that went to + 15 on old coil and stilldead. I might have cooked something. I will mess with it tomorrow.
Also I am probabky missing something to drive the tach. I doubt it accepts square wave inputs.


Thanks Ed.

Posted by: rhodyguy Oct 14 2013, 07:45 AM

with my 6al i use andy's pump jumper wire method at the relay board to the ground post near the board.

Posted by: wndsnd Oct 14 2013, 08:38 AM

Hi Kevin,

I just yanked all the electronic stuff out and put in an old 022 Dist and a Bosch Blue.
Now, I can't find a stinking rotor for it. And, I can't find another disty I had lieing around, so I should have at least 3 rotors around the shop and nothing.

Frustration......

Posted by: 7275914911 Oct 14 2013, 02:09 PM

Unlite Module. Don't ask me how I would know about that ?? They aren't nearly as expensive as they once were is a good thing...

Also the tach output should be the same as original if installed correctly, I believe. Black wire at coil?

Good Luck
Ken