I am planning to adjust the valves in my 6 soon. Anyone have tips on a good procedure to follow? My car is a 6 conversion using an original 6 engine and flywheel. My lower valve covers are turbo type that have been shaved so they can be easily removed. Just looking for some tips since this will be the first time I am adjusting the valves in this car!
I sometimes wonder if the easiest procedure isn't:
1. Remove engine and transaxle
2. Adjust valves
3. Reinstall engine and transaxle
almost.
Besides doing the adjustment by the Factory method, which requires over and under many times you can do the backside of the cam method. Since you can actually see the position of the follower on the cam you adjust those valves that are on the heel of the cam, rotate, and do more. This saves starting on the V1 marker, #1 in firing position and adjusting the intake & exhaust and then moving to V2 for the next cylinder in firing order, etc,. It's hard to see the marks on the pulley unless you have cut a hole in the firewall.
It's a PITA to do. Like stated if you can't see the timing marks on the flywheel , the front pulley through a hole in the firewall, or the dizzy you have some work cut out for yourself. I've done the valve adjustment several times on a factory 6 and it's a pain even with the flywheel properly marked (I high lighted the marks prior to installing the trans one time). In the future I plan on dropping the engine and trans to do the valves adjustment. I'm getting older and this up and down under the car thing is a pain unless you have a lift. It's 3 bolts holding the engine/trans in , the cv bolts, fuel lines, some wires need to be disconnected, and oil lines which you would need to remove one anyway to drain the oil. I can have the engine and trans on the ground in less the 1 hr. Plus I would clean up the engine bay while I'm there and fix any future/potential problems. Don't forget to do the adjustment with the engine stone cold and drain the oil. Either way engine in or out of the car it can be done. It depends on which route you want to take. Some will agree and some not with the engine drop. The guys that will agree will be like me as I'm not as flexible as I use to be. Getting old sucks plus I don't like being under the car any longer then I have to be.
One uses the SAME method as with the 4s. Read up on it in my post found in the "classic" forum. Difficult in the car, but easier than pulling the driveline. Buy yourself a remote starter harness and button.
The Cap'n
One to the battery post of the starter, one to the pin where the yellow (switch) wire connects.
The Cap'n
What are the the pros and cons to cutting a hole on the firewall and bolt a remove able plate for easy access? Not just for valve adjustment, replacing alternator belts and even the alternator.
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