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Posted by: boxsterfan Oct 20 2013, 03:12 PM

Trying to change my trans fluid today. Was able to get the fill plug remove easily. However, the drain plug won't budge.

What can I do? Thinking a longer wrench for more leverage, but don't want to damage/round-out the plug.

WD40? Brake Cleaner?

Posted by: mrbubblehead Oct 20 2013, 03:42 PM

try heat around the plug...

Posted by: r_towle Oct 20 2013, 03:48 PM

What are you using for a wrench?

Posted by: boxsterfan Oct 20 2013, 09:58 PM

I have the 17mm allen head tool from pelican that has 3/8" socket connection to a Snap-on socket wrench (16" long). I'm thinking heat or wd-40 and borrowing my neighbors BIG socket wrench for more leverage. Note: The engine was fully warmed up when I was attempting to remove the drain plug.

I didn't even have the car on jacks. My driveway has a slight slope as I exit the garage so I pulled the car just in enough to get more room under the rear. I guess if I damage the plug I can always order a new one for $12.

Looking for advice and I will tackle it this coming weekend.

Posted by: dangrouche Oct 20 2013, 10:10 PM

BTDT. you are not giving yourself enough room for leverage; much easier if the car is elevated on jackstands and you can lie directly beneath it (wear safety glasses). you would be surpirsed how easy it rotates once you can lay beneath it and pull down. using a 1/2 inch ratchet with an adaptor does make it easier. using a 3/8 craftsman flex head ratchet should work fine.

Posted by: Trekkor Oct 21 2013, 03:35 AM

Put a little dab of anti-seize on it when you put it back in.


KT

Posted by: rhodyguy Oct 21 2013, 06:57 AM

get an adapter and use a breaker bar. i bought a 17mm hex that works with 1/2" drive.

Posted by: cary Oct 21 2013, 07:03 AM

Go buy a 17mm allen wrench at a bug shop.
Then buy about 24-30" of steel pipe.
Slide the pipe over the allen wrench.
Magic ...............

Ditto on the anti-seize.

Ditto in the breaker bar, you'll tear the teeth out of your socket wrench. BTDT. Numerous times.

Posted by: Brian Mifsud Oct 21 2013, 08:30 AM

A 17mm nut and socket is a quick and easy tool to use for this. The nut fits inside that hex cutout on the fill and drain plugs.

Breaker bar on the socket and you can't apply more torque than that.

Posted by: 914werke Jul 6 2019, 06:25 PM

Resurrecting an old thread.
What wasn't addressed in the original responses is what to do when the socket is already stripped~!
If you are lucky there is still enough of the plug protruding from the case to get some vice grips on..then uses a MAP on the case surrounding the plug, but not always is it that easy.
I have one that some he-man thought it was necessary to screw in until there wasn't a thread showing!!!

Posted by: 914werke Jul 8 2019, 01:15 PM

knowing that the trans case is some mag/alloy mix how much heat is safe to apply? Propane ..MAP...Torch!!
I recently threw a chunk of a tail cover in the backyard fire pit & it burned like the SUN for good long time

Posted by: steuspeed Jul 8 2019, 02:37 PM

Jack it up and use a breaker bar. That's what I had to do. I think 30 ftlbs is the spec IIRC. Some jackass at jiffy lube prob put his air wrench on it before I owned it.

And re-fill with cheap NON synthetic GL5 hypoid gear oil.

Posted by: 914werke Jul 8 2019, 03:04 PM

Posted by: Tbrown4x4 Jul 8 2019, 05:18 PM

Where does he say it was stripped?

"but don't want to damage/round out the plug."


And avoid Jiffy Lube. I've rebuilt many engines on behalf of Jiffy Lube.

Posted by: Ed_Turbo Jul 8 2019, 10:22 PM

I am not sure either, but if it was stripped then you really have to go out of your way and mess up these plugs. Allen’s usually strip if you don’t put it in correctly or over torque them.

Keep a bottle of liquid wrench and/or small propane torch for stubborn bolts.


-Ed

Posted by: IronHillRestorations Jul 9 2019, 06:28 AM

I suspect it's possible that there could be some galvanic corrosion between the steel plug and the magnesium case, so using some anti-seize on the threads isn't a bad idea.

Posted by: Tbrown4x4 Jul 9 2019, 06:59 AM

Keep in mind that anything on the threads affects the torque reading. If you use anti-seize, then the stock torque will be too high.

There is a chart to figure out how much to reduce the torque based on what material is on the threads.

Posted by: 76-914 Jul 9 2019, 07:34 AM

You're dealing with a pipe plug. If it strips then carefully drill a hole in the plug and remove the piece. Just be sure to clean any debris after drilling. The pic is just an example but you'd probably want a 1/2 or 3/4" extractor. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-73308-Extractor/dp/B00BEZWEYA/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=3%2F4%22+nipple+extractor&qid=1562624904&s=gateway&sr=8-40

Posted by: VaccaRabite Jul 9 2019, 07:51 AM

Assuming that the plug is not stripped...
Clean the bore of the plug. They can get filled in with dirt and oil and junk. You want as much of the bit in the plug as you can get.

Heat, penetrating oil ( I like 50/50 acetone and ATF), and a breaker bar with a pipe on the end will set it free.

If it is stripped, do all the same stuff (maybe you can still get purchase). If not, set the bit into the plug and weld it to the plug. Been there done that with other Allen type plugs and bolts, when all else failed.

Zach

Zach

Posted by: GregAmy Jul 9 2019, 08:18 AM

Tack-weld a sliced section of Allen tool to the steel plug and use a 6-pt socket to get it out.

If that doesn't work, then a side-chisel and hammer on the inside and/or lips to rotate out.

Clean and then replace the "innies" with 911 "outies".

Posted by: jd74914 Jul 9 2019, 11:01 AM

BTDT

I'm cheap so I welded a cut bolt with nut on though.