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Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 12:51 AM

I recently posted on another forum PP about those low comp bus pistons. Turns out they are 93's not 94

The guy I won them from just emailed back... What should I say??

Posted by: Brad Roberts Jan 23 2003, 12:53 AM

Tell him to EAT his 1.8 Bus pistons. Some turbo type4 guy *might* want them. But otherwise, they are paper weights.

B

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 01:03 AM

I just lost 100 bucks in trade on high comp flat euro's, now they are full price 300, not to bad. 22 mm pins, tops already cut for valves, new w/ rings and Berg keepers

Posted by: ChrisReale Jan 23 2003, 01:14 AM

Was "914" in the title of the auction at all? If so, ask for a refund. If he tries to jive you, give him the :gilloutine:

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 01:22 AM

Yea, like I remember that long ago. I forget everything prior to puffin', and I do that every few hours, I think

Posted by: ChrisReale Jan 23 2003, 01:24 AM

gotta do what gets you through...Did you guys get that case split?

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 01:31 AM

Naw, its on the engine stand tho. Got the trunk pretty much stripped, just gotta use some chemicals on the rest. Going tomorrow @ 4p, wanna come?

Any ideas on chemicals, anyone?

Posted by: vortrex Jan 23 2003, 01:33 AM

the aircraft stripper stuff takes the paint off really well.

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 01:46 AM

Im already ill, anything less deadly like thinner?

Posted by: vortrex Jan 23 2003, 01:50 AM

I don't know, I don't think thinner is going to do much. a wire wheel and drill might be another good option. I don't remember the aircraft thinner being too toxic, but I will smell some now.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Jan 23 2003, 01:50 AM

Your crazy (we knew that) have it blasted. The remover crap makes a ton of mess. The painters HATE it. Walnut shell/media/or baking soda blasted. You can wash away the baking soda and it doesnt come back to haunt you. The price will run the same as if you bought all the chemicals.

Something to think about (while your puffin) LOL

B

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 01:59 AM

I was thinking of avoiding the sand but thats the best idea, huh? Got my own little 10 gal blaster, just gotta mask everything off (like the car next to mine

BTW the guy w/ the piston issue seems honest, and looks like it'll work out.

Posted by: vortrex Jan 23 2003, 02:02 AM

the aircraft stripper is not bad if you're using it in places where it cannot seep or drip to hidden areas. it's thick like jelly, so easy to control. put it on with a paint brush, wait a few min, then the paint will be bubbling off the metal. one clean sweep with a putty knife and it is gone. it's not terribly messy if you do it in relatively small areas at a time. probably only cost $10 for the crap.

BTW...it says you only need a fresh air system or breathing device if in an OSHA controlled workplace. otherwise, it just says use it in an open area with cross ventilation.

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 02:02 AM

Posted by: vortrex Jan 23 2003, 02:05 AM

are you doing the trunk floor or the trunk lid? sandblasting is going to leave you a rough finish if you're doing the trunk lid. chemicals leave a wonderful finish with no further prep needed.

Posted by: Brad Roberts Jan 23 2003, 02:05 AM

Be careful here. If you notice.. I didnt say SAND blasting. Sand can cause too much heat in the metal and warp it. If your doing a small area.. just use the stripper.

I'm not sure who you are using as a painter.. but most of them want paint to paint too. Cars that are bare require more work than one that is down to its original paint.

B

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 02:06 AM

Posted by: vortrex Jan 23 2003, 02:09 AM

yup, water rinsable. got mine at a paint and body supply place. your local auto parts store might have it too. it's called "aircraft remover by klean-strip" and is in a blue metal container. the 1 QT size would be plenty.

Posted by: Dave Cawdrey Jan 23 2003, 02:11 AM

Cool, I'll try it. Thanks