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Valve are now to tight.
It happens, sorry, but do it again.
My 911 was the same way when I bought it.
It's important that you actually hear the tappets, it means they are set correctly.
Valves too tight will make the car run as you explained.
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Do it before you drive it again. Better too loose than tight. Too loose won't harm anything but your ego. Too tight makes your check book open.
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Are you adjusting the valves when the motor is cold or warm?
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Have you read my tutorial in the classic threads?
The Cap'n
did you do anything else in conjunction with the valve adjustment? like new plugs, oil change etc. ?
It may be something that came loose while you were in the engine compartment.
Do you have the knob on top of the ECU to adjust your idle mixture?
This happens only when cold? Check your CHT wiring, make sure it tight and you did not damage it while doing the valves etc....it happens.
Umm,
Plugs, all of the FI plugs, pull them and reset them.
Can you affect the idle by setting the idle air bypass screw?
Does the do anything?
If not, there are other things to look at.
If that works, it's most likely AAR...
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well, the sudden change in morning/ overnight temps may have affected what you are dealing with.
Pull the AAR out.
Ground it at the body.
Add power to the red lead.
Does it open all the way?
Does it close all the way?
Even before that...
Two fuses on the engine compartment relay...still good?
I dont recall the wiring diagram with respect to the Temp Sensor and the AAR, but they are right next to each other in the wiring loom....
Did you jostle that AAR connection in some way?
Rich
I always do these type of triage things with a few assumptions.
I did something wrong.,..
The simplest thing is typically the issue.
So, what did you touch, back track.
If you pulled out the spade to solder...what else did you disturb in the process.
Its not like there is plenty of slack in that harness.
You would have disturbed (possibly)
all the Injector grounds (passenger side, under the plenum, top case bolt near rear)
AAR
Distributor EFI trigger points
Coil wiring
I think that is all that is over there....but you may want to just follow the wiring loom for the EFI and check every connection, reseat all of them, etc.
The thermo tine switch has nothing to do with the AAR. It lets the ecu "see" ambient temp so it can open the cold start valve. The aar opens and closes via a bimetallic spring that reacts to temp. Even with no power to the aar it will eventually close anyway by the engine heat, assuming the aar works properly.
Did you say it ran fine before you adjusted the valves?
Have to wonder how this spins so far away before addressing that.
Maybe something went awry there?
Rich addressed that on the second post of the thread, and 76-914 two posts later. He says he readjusted them, but were they done properly???
Same question still stands. It ran fine before. If there was an error in valve adjust process, it remains no matter how many times repeated.
If not, no prob. Just asking.
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From what I have seen, Petronix are binary...work or no work....no middle ground.
So, your timing might be wierd now....take another look at how you mounted the plates, correct orientation no screws binding the motion...that can happen with the Petronix unit...the mounting screw might bind he advance plates...
Again, go look at what YOU did first, before you chase everything else.
Rich
When I tried to solder my points plate ground wire, it quickly vibrated loose and caused the car to die.
However, then it wouldn't restart....it didn't act like what you are seeing. I ended up replacing the points plate in mine and that fixed my issue.
Could you have possibly moved your timing?
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"Accelerator response still does not coincide with motor response
Revving motor, RPM gauge does not appear to coincide with sound of RPM being generated"
this concerns me.
does the tach "lag" behind the throttle opening?
does the engine lag behind throttle?
have you checked the tach wire connections?
there are air bypass adjustments at the throttle body. have you tried to adjust it there?
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Do you have another tach to test?
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Try removing the hoses from the cold start injector and putting a solid piece of tubing, or one long hose in its place so no fuel touches the cold start injector.
Sometimes the die open and make the car run too rich, but may also make the pressure go down once you stop the car...
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