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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ NEW HERE! 71 Porsche 914 24k
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 2 2013, 10:56 PM
Hey guys I am new to the form, but i purchased a 914 about a month back. Its a clean Porsche with 24k miles on it, and it shows. But it has absolutely no power when it comes to hills, first gear or just period. barely makes it out of my driveway in reverse and it is not that steep. It has the 1.7L and i would like to get some more power out of it but not change it from original. Thanks to my county i don't have to smog it so that's not a problem but it was smogged by the original owner. Anyways its registered as a classic vehicle and only has one dent! 
anyways Let me know what you think and If any one can help with the lack of power i would greatly appreciate it
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Posted by: SirAndy Dec 2 2013, 11:08 PM
My guess would be that as soon as you fix what is wrong with it you'll have plenty of fun with your 1.7L ...
PS:
Posted by: Mike Bellis Dec 2 2013, 11:13 PM
Posted by: euro911 Dec 2 2013, 11:31 PM
Until you know what you have, you may be wasting time and $ to get it running well.
First thing, run a compression check and a leak-down test, then post the results here.
If the #s don't look good, do a stone-cold valve adjustment and run the tests again.
If OK, preform a tune up - plugs, points, ignition timing and fuel adjustments (carbs).
Do you have FI or carbs?
Posted by: rick 918-S Dec 3 2013, 12:21 AM
Until you know what you have, you may be wasting time and $ to get it running well.
First thing, run a compression check and a leak-down test, then post the results here.
If the #s don't look good, do a stone-cold valve adjustment and run the tests again.
If OK, preform a tune up - plugs, points, ignition timing and fuel adjustments (carbs).
Do you have FI or carbs?
with all of this. If you have injection do a vacuum test on the maps. This could be part of the issue but very likely more of an issue with the vacuum hoses. Replace all the vacuum hoses. There are suppliers that will sell you the stock cloth wrapped hose as a kit.With that low of mileage the car likely sat along time. Drain the fuel, Pull the tank and replace the tank screen, clean the tank inside and replace the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel. After 40+ years they become brittle and will split. Many 914's have been lost to fire caused by old fuel lines.
The above and a full brake rebuild will be cheap insurance.
Posted by: Joe Sharp Dec 3 2013, 02:12 AM
Yeah, what they said.
Posted by: abnrdo Dec 3 2013, 03:14 AM
Nice teener!!
Posted by: johannes Dec 3 2013, 06:09 AM
Welcome to the world !
The french guy ...
Posted by: JawjaPorsche Dec 3 2013, 07:15 AM
Maybe someone in your area can recommend a good mechanic to go over your new teener. It could be anything needed: tune-up, injectors need cleaning, valve adjustment, vacuum leak, etc.
Ditto on replacing all the fuel lines. Cheap insurance.
Good luck.
Posted by: cary Dec 3 2013, 07:18 AM
Yeah, what they said.
Ditto on what he said.
Posted by: Cairo94507 Dec 3 2013, 07:39 AM
Sweet car. Please do what has been suggested for your safety and to protect the car too.
Posted by: Kraftwerk Dec 3 2013, 11:02 AM
Yes to new fuel lines. go stainless.
Tangerine Racing will set you up.
Posted by: ConeDodger Dec 3 2013, 11:11 AM
Hey! Another Teener just down the highway from me! Cool. There are a couple of us up here in Reno... My car is out of town at Original Customs where the Mad Scientist McMark is prototyping parts and processes on it. Well, really, it's getting a 3.2 six put in it... 
By the way, running right, the 1.7 has no problem keeping up with the 2.0 and certainly the 1.8 in an autocross... It will scoot right along... You should bring it up to Reno Rennsport and have Brian Lowder and his guys look at it. Probably just needs to be resealed and have the EFI looked over...
Posted by: Ferg Dec 3 2013, 11:48 AM
Welcome, sure looks clean, how about some more pics
Posted by: Cupomeat Dec 3 2013, 12:54 PM
I agree with all them above.
Get it running right and start driving the car and have lots of fun before you start adding power.
Also, in addition to replacing all the fuel and vacuum lines, replace the flexible brake lines, bleed/flush the brakes and make sure the tires are not much older than 6 yrs before you start driving it in earnest.
If it all gets to be a pain in the but, sell it to me!!! 
Posted by: mepstein Dec 3 2013, 03:11 PM
Check the timing. Adjusting my dizzy turned my 1.7 from a dog to a fun car. Early cars are light and the 1.7 moves when it's running right.
Posted by: ConeDodger Dec 3 2013, 03:48 PM
Welcome, sure looks clean, how about some more pics
And by "looks clean" what Ferg really means is that it looks filthy and he can't stand it so he needs more pictures so he knows how many rags to bring when he comes to clean it...
Posted by: Ferg Dec 3 2013, 03:55 PM
Welcome, sure looks clean, how about some more pics
And by "looks clean" what Ferg really means is that it looks filthy and he can't stand it so he needs more pictures so he knows how many rags to bring when he comes to clean it...
Show us the dent, it may be something a paintless dent guy could tackle, huge bonus if orig paint.
Posted by: ConeDodger Dec 3 2013, 04:00 PM
Welcome, sure looks clean, how about some more pics
And by "looks clean" what Ferg really means is that it looks filthy and he can't stand it so he needs more pictures so he knows how many rags to bring when he comes to clean it...
Show us the dent, it may be something a paintless dent guy could tackle, huge bonus if orig paint.
Changes his underwear 4 times a day...
Posted by: 914_teener Dec 3 2013, 04:01 PM
First thing you need to do is get intimate with the car.
Plenty of fun to be had with a 1.7......they go up hills just fine.
Posted by: nolift914 Dec 3 2013, 04:23 PM
Posted by: euro911 Dec 3 2013, 04:40 PM
I think we may have already scared him off 
1.7Ls are nothing to sneeze at - they can be quite exhilarating if well sorted and a couple of performance enhancements. A Pertronix ignition and a good extractor exhaust system can be had inexpensively and without permanently altering the car.
When all the dust is settled in my barn, we'll be keeping my wife's '71 1.7L ... 
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 5 2013, 09:21 PM
No you guys didn't scare me off yet! but it was recently gone through by a shop called automotion. But it was owned by (no offence) an old couple that babied this car it has been kept very clean.(fuel line replaced pretty recently). It has been smogged but I am looking to undo that as my county doesn't require smog. but in looking though the records the entire bug was restored in 92... at thirteen thousand miles......... 
but they put 12k into restoring it so beats me. but i haven't put any money into it other than oil.
Also a big thing is i need to learn how to deal with electronics and stuff as one can(and i have) fixed a bug engine with duct tape and JB weld
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Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 5 2013, 09:28 PM
Sorry for the head turning
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Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 5 2013, 09:29 PM
final one
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Posted by: euro911 Dec 5 2013, 09:50 PM
Unless you've already corrected it, the injector connector for cylinder # 2 is unplugged. That would certainly cause a loss of power.
Also, your vacuum hoses look pretty old. Check all of them - and if they're cracked at the ends, you can try snipping off the ends just past the cracks (if the hoses are long enough). If not, replace them with new ones.
Posted by: SirAndy Dec 5 2013, 09:55 PM
If those pics are from the cars current state then i know why it's not running well.
One of your injectors is unplugged ...
Posted by: euro911 Dec 5 2013, 09:57 PM
Boy, you're quick, Andy ... but 5 minutes late
Posted by: SirAndy Dec 5 2013, 10:01 PM
Only because i got distracted by facebook.
By the time i got back to this thread and answered you had already posted.
I blame it on the ancient city of Heracleion ...
Posted by: krazykonrad Dec 6 2013, 05:39 PM
Posted by: Ferg Dec 6 2013, 05:41 PM
Paintless dent guy can certainly take care of those dents.
Turtleback wheels are neat.
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 10 2013, 08:42 PM
I am now realizing how simple that is... are they supposed to be loose like that or are they supposed to clip in
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 10 2013, 08:51 PM
Ok well that helpped and it ran decent for 2 minutes then would die out then jump to 2000 rpm the rinse and repeat while blowing oil out the exhaust pipe...
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 10 2013, 08:51 PM
Ok well that helpped and it ran decent for 2 minutes then would die out then jump to 2000 rpm the rinse and repeat while blowing oil out the exhaust pipe...
Posted by: arkitect Dec 10 2013, 09:01 PM
Until you know what you have, you may be wasting time and $ to get it running well.
First thing, run a compression check and a leak-down test, then post the results here.
If the #s don't look good, do a stone-cold valve adjustment and run the tests again.
If OK, preform a tune up - plugs, points, ignition timing and fuel adjustments (carbs).
Do you have FI or carbs?
with all of this. If you have injection do a vacuum test on the maps. This could be part of the issue but very likely more of an issue with the vacuum hoses. Replace all the vacuum hoses. There are suppliers that will sell you the stock cloth wrapped hose as a kit.With that low of mileage the car likely sat along time. Drain the fuel, Pull the tank and replace the tank screen, clean the tank inside and replace the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel. After 40+ years they become brittle and will split. Many 914's have been lost to fire caused by old fuel lines.
The above and a full brake rebuild will be cheap insurance.
Which suppliers sell the fi hoses as a set? Are all the lines cut to the proper length?
More info needed.
Dave
Posted by: jim_hoyland Dec 10 2013, 09:34 PM
Sounds like leaky air hose connections or hoses: the worst ones can be the small diameter ones- even when they look good.
Posted by: amcmackin1 Dec 10 2013, 09:54 PM
I would assume that the hoses are cut to the proper length as it was professionaly restored but i will get some new higher quality hoses and replace them. which hoses should i replace?
Posted by: euro911 Dec 10 2013, 10:05 PM
Bite the bullet and replace all the vacuum hoses. If you haven't yet, replace all the fuel hoses as well (with the high pressure FI hose). You won't be sorry.
Go to Jeff Bowsby's site for the specific hose diameters and other neat tech info ... https://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/TechNotebook.htm
Posted by: rick 918-S Dec 10 2013, 10:55 PM
As others have posted. These cars need all the vacuum hoses connected properly, Check all the wire harness connections specially at the injectors. The wiring get brittle and sometimes breaks causing mystery issues. The most important thing you can do for the long life of the car is replace the plastic fuel line in the tunnel with stainless lines.
Chris Foley will fix you up with a set of lines. http://www.tangerineracing.com/
I really like the turtle backs. 
Posted by: cwpeden Dec 10 2013, 11:25 PM
Cant believe anyone hasn't suggested testing the CHT!?
Posted by: lonewolfe Dec 11 2013, 12:09 AM
I was going to suggest checking out your FI connections. When I bought my car it was the same situation. It started right up but just kind of chugged along driving down the road and seemed not all cylinders were firing. I pulled over and started checking wires etc.. One of the wires going to the the fuel injector was loose. I pushed it in all the way and the car started running great!
As for getting a vacume hose kit, you can buy those from Automobile Atlanta. I bought a kit for my car and it has all the hoses that are precut and it came with instructions and hose diagrams. I believe that hose kit was around $75.00 and totally worth every cent.
Posted by: euro911 Dec 11 2013, 12:59 AM
The injector connectors (as well as all of the other electrical connectors in the engine bay) have/had rubber boots that stretch and pull over the body of the device connection(s) to keep them secured and somewhat water tight.
Replacement boots are as rare as hen's teeth, but do show up from time to time. If you run across some decent ones in a bone-yard car, grab 'em. The best method is to remove the pins from the connector bodies and pull the boots off the wire. This will help to keep you from destroying the boots in the process
Your other option is more expensive, but worth the price if you plan to keep the car for a long time. Again, check out Jeff Bowlsby's site ... he manufactures new harnesses for our cars
... https://bowlsby.net/914/WiringHarnesses/.
Posted by: euro911 Dec 11 2013, 01:19 AM
Has the oil in the case been overfilled? Check your dip stick! A half quart over is OK, but more than that, you need to drain it to recommended capacity.
If you're blowing out oil and you're not overfilled, you could have bad rings or valve guides
Cold adjust the valves, then perform a compression check and a leak-down test.
Posted by: cwpeden Dec 11 2013, 01:33 AM
Is it oil or black water? And i dont mean sewage. 
Posted by: JawjaPorsche Dec 11 2013, 07:24 AM
Here is a link to whole vacuum line kit:
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Vacuum-Line-Kit-1-7-Parts-PN-BAAVACKIT1.html
Good luck on your 914. I am biased. I love red ones!
Posted by: Philip W. Dec 11 2013, 09:08 AM
sounds like you are on the right track, as suggested you need to be vac leak free.
i had the same cutting in and out, sudden surges then missing, loss of power-it ended up being loose FI grounds- now you had one injector not connected, -they should fit pretty good, not loose but the boots that euro pointed out should be nice and tight, they will help hold the connector in and keep them clean and dry.
but still re-check the FI grounds connections, and your transmission ground strap etc as wool
also agree about the old brittle wires, i had similar issues and wanted to eliminate wiring as a source of issues, so i replaced mine with a newly refreshed wiring harness(FI and ignition harnesses) from Jeff Bowlsby. He tests them , makes sure every wire and connector is good. you can send him yours and he will go thru it too.
did i say check the grounds?
oh and
Posted by: krazykonrad Dec 11 2013, 10:06 PM
Keep asking questions and posting pictures.
Konrad
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