I've been thinking about swapping out the 901 for a Suby trans. The part I have always been hung up on is the path of least resistance. Best combo of trans, Magic flanges, CVs, axles, stub axles.... I was going to ask Ian but wanted to do a little a little re-research first. I didn't get far and found this.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/4281511883.html
Is this what I am looking for? Seems like a good price
I should add that I have an 02 WRX in the flared car. The 4 lug hubs are drilled out for 5 lugs.
one question is do you want a hydraulic or cable actuated clutch assy.
ian says some hydraulic transaxles can be retrofitted to cable.
That's the transmission you would need, I understand 05-08 are stronger, but that one should work fine, and that's an amazing price, I had been looking for a while, didn't find anything under a $1k. Might want to go check it out before its gone.
Jeff
That looks like a good trans and a good price. FYI it's probably a 2002-2004 since it has stub axles. Means you save a few bux not having to convert it like the newer ones. As Jeff said the newer ones might be a bit better but they tend to be a LOT more expensive. I'd have gone with an 02-04 had I not stumbled onto my 06 for $800.
For the axles what I would do is use Subie CVs inboard (you need "female" ones, they are easy to find and cheap). Then you just can buy Ians axles or have yours resplined, and outers are stock 914 cv or you can do 944 for extra protection.
What parts are required to install a Subaru tranny into a type 4 powered car?
Is the shifter cable operated, and is there a kit someone could buy?
How does it hang off the rear?
Clutch and pressure plate?
Hydraulic clutch kit?
seems for less than 2k a really stout tranny could be put in place.
Lastly, at least for now....
Can a Subaru transmission be put in a rear engine car?
Do they spin the right way?
Thanks guys,
I am waiting on a call back.
The need to swap to a STI setup tells me the owner was pushing it.
That may be the reason for the great price.
It gives me the feeling that it works but the owner is not sure for how long.
I may feel better If the seller was parting out a car that hit a tree.
You get what you pay for....
Kent, If this one does not work out, I may be giving you a ring soon.
I don't think I want the head ache of hydraulic but I don't recall how people adapted the cable. I think I saw the same trans with the inboard CVs for a little more.
ian's comment...
"To answer your question about Subaru cable clutch transmissions: most Subaru transmissions still have the pivot point cast in the bellhousing at least up until 2004. One would just need to buy the correct parts from Subaru to convert it, probably under 100$ to convert it to cable from hydro."
Ok, I picked up that transmission.
$600, It was missing the for the clutch release lever shaft. I will try to make one tonight. Last night I made the back cover.
Here is a photo of the new 1/4" cover. Only took about 1 hour to make. Traced, dupe punched, cut with a band saw, drilled and cleaned up the band saw cut with a hand router with a rotary file bit then found a 45 degree bit to chamfer all edges. Climb mill cut everything with the hand router gave it the milled look.
I am thinking about masking it off and spraying it with latex paint and try a little chem-mill etch.
One thing of the things I found that I don't understand is this cap on the out put shaft? If this was AWD why have this capping the shaft?
As far as the locking adapter, I an not completely clear how to make or install it.
This differential is different than I saw in (I think it was JPNovac's) thread, on how to convert. It looks like Bremar took down there online install directions, If they ever had them online. I am also looking at a blank PDF from dunebuggyarchives.com I find Factory Five has a lot of good information but not finding what I need. Still digging...
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http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/static/attach/1/3801/Subaru_5sp_transaxle_conversion.pdf
Sweet! If you want to MAKE a diff locker look at this thread...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=104513&hl=subaru++diff++lock
If you want to buy one Ian sells them
http://www.coldwater914.com/category/products/
I think I might have some instructions on how to install it somewhere. If you buy Ian's he will tell you.
Far out! Thanks Guys.
This link to Dunebuggy works and I didn't know Ian was making the diff locker.
You may know this but the diff locking "spool" goes under all this stuff which is not used. On the left in the pic is the center diff, should pull right out, worth ~$250-$300 NASIOC. The spool locks the diff just under that:
Here's what the diff locker looks like installed:
The second section of the trans cover is removed to make it easier to tighten the nut (locking spool is on the left).
Kent,
I am thinking of starting with the 914 1/2 shafts and CV's as well but am not fond of the fuse part. Said another way is weak link.
It's a start that will get me back on the road.
I am sure I will have to mod the trunk. My trans mounts located my motor and trans in the car. I am not sure where Ian's cradle has everything located. I am thinking not more than 1.5" different FWD and AFT and there is no telling up and down. I am sure his axles should work and got a plan for anything that needs adjusting. One thing that I see that will need to be changed is the exhaust
Something that may help me fix my exhaust issues is chopping the center diff housing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXEUSVSpGHg
Looks like a lot of extra work, Mike. Why not buy the lockout then cut a piece of .050" alum plate to make the cover. It's easily traced out using the section that you throw away as a guide.
In all my searching, I still have not figured out what this part is all about?
I have not found it in any of the PDF manuals.
It caps the output shaft, so the shaft could not function with it. It has no splines and nothing but the oil seal holds it in the case. The end is ground like it is held in by the propeller shaft but the prop shaft could not function with it in place ???
So, with it in place the rear wheels could not be driven. Is this off of a FWD car?
I try to turn the gears in the center diff but they don't turn. I am thinking they do when the diff is engaged? Then, I have heard chatter about welding differentials?
Attached image(s)
something that was just stuffed in there to keep oil from leaking out while the tranny was removed and moved about?
"Best"? It depends.
Britian is putting about 375hp at the wheels.....with 12 inch slicks to boot....yeah, tires (traction) enter the picture.
He went with a 930 trans. Good for 700 hp, I'm told.
If you use 195/60 tires you can get by with a little less.
BTW, he also uses a combo throw out bearing that is a hydraulic actutor in one......forget who makes it....but not cheep but it really symplifies the installation.
Its a suby shim/bucket for the valve train.
Ya just to keep the oil from leaking out.
jcl
Great luck Mike! Just make sure you charge enough for it...when I posted my diff on NASIOC for $250 I go so many PM's right away I knew I didn't price it high enough. Hope you recoup most of the $$$ with it!
So you're making your own diff locker?
I really don't know what the inside of one of those suckers looks like, but your logic is pretty solid. Haven't heard of any spline issues. Maybe try to get ahold of one before you sell yours. I agree, they can't be worth squat once they are toasted. Local trans shop or NASIOC should get you one for next to nothing...
I have found that the phase 1 diffs don't fail like the phase II.
$250 is a good selling price. I will not ask more.
I gave up looking for an old trashed phase 1.
I have a crashed phase II on it way, $20 for the trouble + shipping.
We'll see how this works out.
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