Somewhere recently someone had the same problem but I can't fine old post after several searches.
Well anyway, today I'm freshening up the front end and had to get that bolt out. Too little clearance regardless of rack position. i finally did some minor bodywork to provide more room to remove bolt, used long 1/2 extension bar and hammer to "adjust" body clearance and got the bolt out. Determined that the bolt used had about 3 more threads than needed, so a little grinding to shorten it for easy installation now.
One side done, don't think i can get a grinding wheel in on other side to shorten bolt overhang but will have a look.
Anyone else had this experience ??
Also saw that the aft end of torsion bar had some abrasion wear about 1" from beginning of spline, so I polished this off smooth and repainted bar. Some PO had not replaced the rear seal so I don't know if this helps keep bar centralized. New seals ordered now and I will relieve rear opening in housing to insure clearance.
Many years ago I suffered a broken torsion bar due to corrosion pitting induced stress fracture in a 70 teener i had way back, so I'm careful to insure bar is very smooth and well painted.
After 38 years the aft end OEM rubber bushings at the front suspension had taken a permanent sag which caused the torsion bars to rub against the ID of the A-arm.
This destroyed the protective coating and started wearing into the bars.
Way back i had a bar fracture from a corrosion pit that propagated into total fracture.
Concerned that this would also occur now with the wear and corrosion starting on my new project, I replaced the worn OEEM aft bushings and polished are repainted the torsion bars. With the new poly-graphite bushings (from the bird) the bars now again sit centrally within the A-arms.
Heres what the old bushings looked like after removal, not bad with a little help from a propane torch.
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