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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Mark's ADHD/ADD/DWD 3.0 /6 conversion thread

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 03:15 PM

First I'm 52, so I'm not in danger of dying of old age any time soon (knock on wood), but if I don't get it in gear and get this done I'll be too old to enjoy it. My 914 has already been off the road since 2009 and that is just too long. Life has gotten in the way these past 4 years and deciding to homeschool my two kids with me going part time work (so low funds), full time teacher (so no time) didn't help.
But I have been picking away at jobs and collecting parts and I'm pretty well ready to make the push to get it done. Also my boy has decided to go back to regular school (starts next week) and the girl is super easy to teach by herself.

I'm also pushing to get my almost completed '67 VW bug project done as well.
The bug engine is where this started, I a quest for power I began building a type 4 2.6L engine for my 914, then I got sexed up by the /6 wub.gif
I'll start a VW bug thread (later) to keep the 2 projects separate.

So what have I collected so far???

Well.... here's my build sheet...


Engine build sheet for 3.0 1974 914 six conversion.

Engine 3.0L, 70.4mm X 95mm, 10.5: 1 CR

Case, 1979, 3.0, serial # *6399XXX, 930/13, 930.101.104.4R, Supertec head studs
Crank, stock, std/std, polished and magnafluxed, converted to CW distributor drive gear
Rods, stock, rebuilt big and small end, new bushings, ARP bolts and nuts
Flywheel stock, with custom 914-901 adapter ring, CSP 228mm bus HD pressure plate
Full engine balance, pressure plate and adapter ring balanced separately
Main bearings, new glyco, DFL (Dry Film Lube) coated
#8 Main bearing, original Porsche, DFL coated
Rod bearings, new glyco, DFL coated
Intermediate shaft bearings, new Porsche, DFL coated
Gasket set, new nose and rear main seal, Supertec sealant kit
Pump, stock, cooler stock 911 modified to 914/6 spec
Pistons, Mahle, new, 3.0 custom RSR, DFL coated skirts, ceramic coated tops, Goetze rings
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering, stock gaskets, .025mm base gasket
Heads, 3.0 big port, minor port work, twin plug
Valves, stock size, exhaust new TRW sodium, intake new AE
Valve springs, Eibach 20444.212, retainers early stock, keepers stock modified
Ceramic chambers and exhaust ports
Cams, WEB-CAM, 120/104, set at 5.2mm/.10 lash, 964 cores modified to 901 spec
Towers, spray bars R&R, tapped and cleaned, rockers resurfaced and rebushed, RSR rocker shaft seals
Chains, new IWIS, new cam sprockets, keys and pins
Tensioners, hydraulic, no fail modification
906 style cylinder cooling deflectors
Cooler, stock, 3.0, modified for 914

Oil tank, DWD
Oil, Brad Penn break in, Delo400 15w40
Oil filter, Mahle OC54 (late 911)

Carburetors, Weber 40mm IDA, rebuilt, new carb kits, 34mm venturis, 155 main jets, F3 emulsion tubes, 180 air correction, 55 idle, Ported stock manifolds, custom phenolic spacers.
K&N filters and rain hats, Weber linkage
fuel pump

Distributor, PMS/Jarvis, CW, MSD internals, Jaguar XJS-12 cap (1989-1996), Jarvis rotor (RSR clone)
Plug wires custom labeled twin plug, Patrick Motorsports
Ignition, MSD 6AL, twin MSD high vibration coils, max RPM 6800
Spark plugs, NGK BPR5ES (BPR6ES also available for tuning)

Headers, 914, 1-1/2” MSDS, ceramic coated
Muffler/collector, stock banana
14point7 wideband O2 meter, custom wire harness

Transmission
914, 901, side shift rebuilt, using good used parts
Gasket set, Elring
Gearing, custom, A,F,O,X, HB
Stub axles 108mm 911/901

Axles, Sway-Away custom, part# 2420, directional L and R mark to the outside
CV, Lobro, G50 108mm modified to '1969-1974 spec grease seals
Rear hubs and stubs, 5-bolt Porsche, 1972 911, new bearings
Bilstein, shocks, 140lb springs

Front struts, 914/6, Bilstein struts, 5-bolt hubs,
Turbo tie rods, ball joints, and bearings all new German.
Free Motion needle bearings for the front, Original Customs

Sway bars, 22mm Tarret front and stock rear

Front calipers, Brembo aluminum, Alpha Romeo GTV-6/Milano (1984-86), rebuilt with 911M kits
Front pads, 1971-72 bus modified,
Front rotor stock vented 914/6, drilled
Rear calipers, stock 914/4 modified for vented rotor (spacers) rebuilt, stock rear pads
Rear rotor stock vented 911, diameter reduced 5mm (10mm total)

Fuchs 1975 “020” 5-bolt Porsche, refinished
Spare 944 turbo aluminum space saver

I still have to make/buy the oil lines and I have to mod the front cooler.

New project this year 2021 is a SDS fuel injection twin plug system using a modified 964 plenums. Write up coming soon.

Posted by: Kirmizi Feb 5 2014, 04:18 PM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 04:41 PM

First the foundation of my build, a 1979 3.0 case, this engine began it life in a 911 with an automatic. IMO automatics have the best low wear cases.
This has been cleaned about 3-4 times and it will be cleaned a few more times before I'm happy.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 04:51 PM

A job I just tackled was loctite epoxy on all the case plugs.




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Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 5 2014, 04:58 PM

So similar, but the kids are grown and I have a few more years on you. I'm motivated!

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 04:59 PM

One thing this build will have that I've never done before is full DFL (dry film lube) coating treatment on every thing I can coat, plus ceramic barrier coatings on the piston tops. these are both oven cured coatings.
I picked up a cheap mini touch up gun for spraying the coatings


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 05:04 PM

Big snow storm today kids want me to take them skiing, so back to this later....Powder calls my name shades.gif

Posted by: 396 Feb 5 2014, 05:25 PM

Who are you going to use for the piston crown thermo process?...never mind I just noticed it in your posting.
Good luck
Ps, I just called the # on your posting and it directed me to a Texas area code. Sorry to ask, but how did you come up with this solution vs sending it out to one of the big mfg to do this?

Posted by: shuie Feb 5 2014, 06:12 PM

awesome. Thanks for sharing.

Do you have any more info on the flywheel setup? Im planning a -6 conversion and may use a later motor with the 901.

Posted by: r_towle Feb 5 2014, 06:13 PM

Mark.....look a chicken....

Oh, is it time for skiing?


Posted by: Dr Evil Feb 5 2014, 06:50 PM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 08:55 PM

QUOTE(shuie @ Feb 5 2014, 07:12 PM) *

awesome. Thanks for sharing.

Do you have any more info on the flywheel setup? Im planning a -6 conversion and may use a later motor with the 901.


Sure.... what do you want to know? Made my own adapter ring, uses a type 4 bus pressure plate. Once bolted together it looks a lot like a stock 914/4 flywheel.

Here's the ring when I was drilling some holes, low tech I don't have an spin index biggrin.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 09:00 PM

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Feb 5 2014, 07:50 PM) *

popcorn[1].gif

The good doctor was a great help in the collection of some these items beerchug.gif
bye1.gif

Posted by: 396 Feb 5 2014, 09:24 PM

QUOTE(396 @ Feb 5 2014, 03:25 PM) *

Who are you going to use for the piston crown thermo process?...never mind I just noticed it in your posting.
Good luck
Ps, I just called the # on your posting and it directed me to a Texas area code. Sorry to ask, but how did you come up with this solution vs sending it out to one of the big mfg to do this?

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 5 2014, 10:54 PM

QUOTE(396 @ Feb 5 2014, 06:25 PM) *

Who are you going to use for the piston crown thermo process?...never mind I just noticed it in your posting.
Good luck
Ps, I just called the # on your posting and it directed me to a Texas area code. Sorry to ask, but how did you come up with this solution vs sending it out to one of the big mfg to do this?

There was a thread on the pelican forums....google "Techline Coatings"

Posted by: 396 Feb 5 2014, 11:53 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 5 2014, 08:54 PM) *

QUOTE(396 @ Feb 5 2014, 06:25 PM) *

Who are you going to use for the piston crown thermo process?...never mind I just noticed it in your posting.
Good luck
Ps, I just called the # on your posting and it directed me to a Texas area code. Sorry to ask, but how did you come up with this solution vs sending it out to one of the big mfg to do this?

There was a thread on the pelican forums....google "Techline Coatings"



Thanks fir the education. Good luck with your build.

Posted by: cwpeden Feb 6 2014, 12:48 AM

How was skiing? Just got back from 5 days with the family myself. At 45 its another one of those "Do it while I still can" activities.
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aktion035.gif They still cant keep up piratenanner.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 07:11 AM

QUOTE(cwpeden @ Feb 6 2014, 01:48 AM) *

How was skiing? Just got back from 5 days with the family myself. At 45 its another one of those "Do it while I still can" activities.

aktion035.gif They still cant keep up piratenanner.gif

I wish we had a ski mountain...we just have a little hill sad.gif

But the bright side is it's only 5 minutes away, has night skiing and we have memberships. Plus I can dump the kids there if I have things to do biggrin.gif


Dohhh...damn squirrel....gotta stay on topic ....gotta stay on topic.....

Posted by: Woody Feb 6 2014, 07:18 AM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 07:21 AM

Getting my kit together for the balance work, a couple of questions ....

I stick with the 930 pulley right?
And the big fan pulley is for the 930 crank pulley I assume???




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Posted by: MrHyde Feb 6 2014, 07:23 AM

Doesn't sound too bad Mark… Atleast you didn't have to weld the car back together before starting your work.. biggrin.gif

Soooooo Lock youself in the shop, turn on the heat…. turn on the radio… and start assembling the engine.. :-) I know its much more involved than assembling a T4 but its still just measure, place component, gasket/sealant, bolts and torque. poke.gif

I'm taking my car apart again this winter for fun.. :-)

As for the ski hills. We went down to Holliday Valley in NY last weekend to try a new hill.. same drive for us as going up to Blue mountain and its a nice place… but I don't think they got the same snow as us because the hill was just a block of grooved ice.. oh well.. still getting lots of snow to play in this year. :-)

Gimme a shout if you want another pair of hands and I'll see bout coming up.


Posted by: Philip W. Feb 6 2014, 07:25 AM

Mark, thanks for posting this thread, i will enjoy learning from it. ive been wanting to do an engine build at some point, and like others can relate to the difficulty of juggling life, family, job , job changes etc so my 914 had very little done last year + until the past month.
- also a homeschool family, at 48 , 4 kids-my son did it all the way, just turned 21, graduated in spring-had earned a full ride scholarship to USC(gamecocks) and graduated last spring with honors with an engineering degree- we bought the 914 and thought about doing a e-v conversion but found more fun in making it run!, so my 3 girls 17, 14, 9 are also home- one is easy, self learner, one not so much, the oldest now doing dual enrolement of high school/college at the tech school here- dont know it thats an option up there but here it is and is free!! except for books. So anyway just saying i can relate and wanted to get it to the driving point again too, and if we see some delays in postings we can see why, because the kids i can tell you grow up way too fast IMHO!! so enjoy it-

BTW that case looks very clean, who did that for you ?
- thinking about doing either 2056 or 2270 eventually but want to stay F.I., and my D-jet works great so i like to read up on all the variations like Zach's and now your thread.

Posted by: MDG Feb 6 2014, 09:02 AM

mellow.gif

Posted by: Maltese Falcon Feb 6 2014, 09:42 AM

Mark, keep up the good work...nice details as well .
ADHD, ADD, DWD, at least you're not down with OPP !
Marty

Posted by: shuie Feb 6 2014, 10:00 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 5 2014, 08:55 PM) *


Sure.... what do you want to know? Made my own adapter ring, uses a type 4 bus pressure plate. Once bolted together it looks a lot like a stock 914/4 flywheel.



Awesome. thanks. I just wasn't sure what needed to be done to make the 3.0 work with a 901.

I'm probably going to build an -6 engine for my next project and then decide what car to put it in. I want to wind up with something that could work in my 914 if I didn't find a car for it later. I've been leaning towards the 2.7 and smaller Mg cased engines since the flywheel should work without some kind of adapter for the 901.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 10:30 AM

QUOTE(Maltese Falcon @ Feb 6 2014, 10:42 AM) *

Mark, keep up the good work...nice details as well .
ADHD, ADD, DWD, at least you're not down with OPP !
Marty

Hope not blink.gif around here that means you in trouble with the cops! unsure.gif

OPP = Ontario Provincial Police

Posted by: AfricanHijinx Feb 6 2014, 10:32 AM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: 914Timo Feb 6 2014, 01:51 PM

I have been waiting for this thread. Thanks for sharing all the details and info. Keep up good work. I´ll popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: 76-914 Feb 6 2014, 02:01 PM

So you finally decided to jump into the "arena" with the rest of us idiots. poke.gif Aboot time. popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Van914 Feb 6 2014, 04:25 PM

mark,
I miss my 3.0 914. I did not go as far as you have with the engine. Still it ran down the Boxster S's at the track. I ran 205/50 15 tires and it could have used more tire.
Great Build

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 05:31 PM

QUOTE(Van914 @ Feb 6 2014, 05:25 PM) *

mark,
I miss my 3.0 914. I did not go as far as you have with the engine. Still it ran down the Boxster S's at the track. I ran 205/50 15 tires and it could have used more tire.
Great Build


yep.....originally it was suppose to be just a stock CIS mill...I fuched that idea up rolleyes.gif
For now I'm going to keep it narrow body screwy.gif

Posted by: r_towle Feb 6 2014, 08:48 PM

Flares.......

Squirrels...

Skiing

Oil cooler

Chicken

Beetle ITB custom flange at heads, direct bolt on.
Make doors on the inner fenders for simple easy access to both the plugs and the ITB's

Rich

Posted by: r_towle Feb 6 2014, 08:57 PM

Turbo, 400 hp or more on tap...
Shop talk forums.....
German look guys also...

Just doing what I can to help keep you awake at night. beerchug.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 09:49 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 6 2014, 09:48 PM) *

Flares.......

Squirrels...

Skiing

Oil cooler

Chicken

Beetle ITB custom flange at heads, direct bolt on.
Make doors on the inner fenders for simple easy access to both the plugs and the ITB's

Rich


Well....a bit of squirrel progress today smile.gif

Since I'm doing the DFL and ceramic coatings I need a good oven. Last summer my sister in law gave me her old stove, I stripped off the top and everything to do with the burners. Cut off all the wiring except for the oven controls and the oven light switch.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 09:51 PM

Checked to make sure it still worked.

I knocked it over and busted the dang handle sad.gif

I took it off and I'm epoxying it.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 09:54 PM

I had this old top hanging around. I bent up the back and side splash...no easy feat as it's 14 gauge and I have no brake.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 09:58 PM

Then I cut in the control panel smile.gif


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Posted by: r_towle Feb 6 2014, 10:02 PM

Ok, how did you bend that with no brake?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 10:03 PM

Not quite finished, I still have to mount the top to the wall. I'm also going to mount my grinder to the corner like so and tie it into the top and wall.

I'll take the controls back out and silicone the into the top so dirt cant get in. Then maybe I'll give a quick coat of rust paint and call it done.


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Posted by: balljoint Feb 6 2014, 10:05 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 6 2014, 11:02 PM) *

Ok, how did you bend that with no brake?


By hand.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 10:08 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Feb 6 2014, 11:02 PM) *

Ok, how did you bend that with no brake?

Two pieces of heavy 1-1/2" square tube, a vice, a couple of pipe clamps and a big fucking hammer (BFH).
Real big...as in 8lb sledge hammer and a 2lb hammer as well.
My vice is fairly HD as well...oh... and so am I. wink.gif

Posted by: r_towle Feb 6 2014, 10:11 PM

Impressive.

Posted by: mrbubblehead Feb 6 2014, 10:13 PM

now you can do some home powder coating too. i can just fit a 15 inch wheel in my oven.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 6 2014, 10:14 PM

Did I also mention I'm training for my black belt as well? ph34r.gif

Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 6 2014, 11:28 PM

Don't you need to drill a hole for the exhaust flue? Looks like it was under the back left burner

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 7 2014, 06:14 AM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 7 2014, 12:28 AM) *

Don't you need to drill a hole for the exhaust flue? Looks like it was under the back left burner

It's not sitting right on the flue it's up at least 1".
I know I'll have a hot spot, but I was hoping I could get away with that. unsure.gif
This is part of my metal working area.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 7 2014, 10:44 AM

Fired it up today with my laser thermometer pointed at a scrap piston in the middle rack.
I need to set at 320F for 300F
I need to set at 370F for 350F

The table does have quite a hot spot on the chimney area, 190F (@300) and 225 (@350).
So I'm wondering what to do..... leave it, part block it, cut a hole in the top or redirect it so I don't have to cut the top.
idea.gif

Posted by: r_towle Feb 7 2014, 11:16 AM

leave it and mark it so you dont forget.

Make a sign for the door with a warning also....

nothing bad will happen if you are safe about it...its not like that counter will get damaged....though it may warp when its cold out there.....

Rich

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 8 2014, 11:58 AM

Doh....squirrel!!!!
Gots to keep this on the front page!

Collecting more parts, thanks for passing on these Brant, and I love how Rick handled this :
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229886&st=0&gopid=1995189&#entry1995189

sunglasses.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 8 2014, 02:26 PM

I'm getting my "poop in a group" to take the assembly to the balancer.
Someone was asking about my flywheel so here's the pic's




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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 8 2014, 02:34 PM

The ring was made from a type 1 VW beetle flywheel.
The flywheel was lightened a bit, the holes were really just added for drainage/dust. Stock /4 flys have 6 holes, so I went a bit overboard, it "may" have taken a hair of weight off. Before I drilled the holes the ring and flywheel weighed just under 14lbs, about the same as a stock /4.
The pressure plate is a CSP HD performance type 4 vanagon 228mm.

No I will not make you one, not worth it to me to sell these. the VW and Porsche flywheels are hard as hell, this was tough going.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 8 2014, 02:38 PM

Believe it or not this was made on my 1942 Montgomery Ward (Logan) lathe.

It's a 10"X 36" that's been modified with 2-1/2" risers, basically turning it into a 13" swing.
A PO did the mod and re-geared it, the feed works like normal.


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Posted by: kid914 Feb 8 2014, 03:30 PM

popcorn[1].gif WOW a 300+ hp 3.0 rsr engine????
aktion035.gif piratenanner.gif

Posted by: McMark Feb 8 2014, 03:38 PM

Can you weigh the flywheel w/ adapter as well as the whole flywheel clutch package? I'm interested in comparing a few as time goes on.

Posted by: MrHyde Feb 8 2014, 05:12 PM

Nice Lathe ! When did you get that !

Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 8 2014, 06:48 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 7 2014, 08:44 AM) *

Fired it up today with my laser thermometer pointed at a scrap piston in the middle rack.
I need to set at 320F for 300F
I need to set at 370F for 350F

The table does have quite a hot spot on the chimney area, 190F (@300) and 225 (@350).
So I'm wondering what to do..... leave it, part block it, cut a hole in the top or redirect it so I don't have to cut the top.
idea.gif



That's where you can put your coffee cup. Just make sure the handle is insulated.

Posted by: sixnotfour Feb 8 2014, 08:38 PM

once you start baking powder , You will wish the chimney vented outside...

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 07:19 AM

QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 8 2014, 06:12 PM) *

Nice Lathe ! When did you get that !


A couple of weeks after the clinic biggrin.gif

QUOTE(kid914 @ Feb 8 2014, 04:30 PM) *

popcorn[1].gif WOW a 300+ hp 3.0 rsr engine????
aktion035.gif piratenanner.gif


Well not quite, but I could have a bit over 250, I'd say at the most 280hp
I'll probably jizz in my pants...or shit them.


QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 8 2014, 09:38 PM) *

once you start baking powder , You will wish the chimney vented outside...

Hmmm...... unsure.gif I put in a heat sheild yesterday, but maybe the chimney needs a rethunk

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:12 PM

Decided to make my adapter ring holes a little bigger. confused24.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:27 PM

Also decided that I should also mark the flywheel so I can see the timing/valve adjusting marks through the bottom peephole. I had to put the marks 180 out so the read from the bottom, it was easiest just to put the crank in the case for marking.
I started doing the lines on the lathe, but they were to fine so I took a file to them.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:37 PM

Rebult rods with ARP bolts

Aaaahhhhh....reaming and honing.... drooley.gif


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Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 9 2014, 10:39 PM

Can I just send my engine parts to you and you can put them together?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:43 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 9 2014, 11:39 PM) *

Can I just send my engine parts to you and you can put them together?

You live a bit too far away shades.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:47 PM

Last thing for today is I swapped out the dizzy drive gear.
A 3.0 has a counter clockwise dizzy, I changed the gear so that I can use a clockwise dizzy.




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Posted by: mrbubblehead Feb 9 2014, 10:50 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 9 2014, 08:27 PM) *

Also decided that I should also mark the flywheel so I can see the timing/valve adjusting marks through the bottom peephole. I had to put the marks 180 out so the read from the bottom, it was easest just to pu the crank in the case for marking.
I started doing the lines on the lathe, but they were to fine so I took a file to them.
thats what i do with my flywheels. it makes valve adjustments way easier. if your gonna be powder coating out of your oven, can you move the oven outside?.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 9 2014, 10:53 PM

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Feb 9 2014, 11:50 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 9 2014, 08:27 PM) *

Also decided that I should also mark the flywheel so I can see the timing/valve adjusting marks through the bottom peephole. I had to put the marks 180 out so the read from the bottom, it was easest just to pu the crank in the case for marking.
I started doing the lines on the lathe, but they were to fine so I took a file to them.
thats what i do with my flywheels. it makes valve adjustments way easier. if your gonna be powder coating out of your oven, can you move the oven outside?.

Pain in the ass to do that and it's too cold in the winter, thinking of running the chimney to the outside.

Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 9 2014, 11:47 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 9 2014, 08:43 PM) *

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 9 2014, 11:39 PM) *

Can I just send my engine parts to you and you can put them together?

You live a bit too far away shades.gif


You could come to Seattle.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 10 2014, 06:06 AM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 10 2014, 12:47 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 9 2014, 08:43 PM) *

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 9 2014, 11:39 PM) *

Can I just send my engine parts to you and you can put them together?

You live a bit too far away shades.gif


You could come to Seattle.

Tempting.... idea.gif but I think the wife and kiddies would veto that idea. confused24.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 10 2014, 11:12 AM

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 8 2014, 04:38 PM) *

Can you weigh the flywheel w/ adapter as well as the whole flywheel clutch package? I'm interested in comparing a few as time goes on.

My setup on the top left

Flywheel 225mm 9.5 Lbs
Adapter ring 4.4 Lbs
Pressure plate 11.1 Lbs
Total 25 Lbs

Comparison on the top right, 930 245mm flywheel with Centerforce clutch package is 35.5 Lbs

On the lower center is the 1971 aluminum pressure plate at 7.5 Lbs it is a light weight with a stock PP i'm guessing about 20 Lbs total.

Note I have lightened my flywheel, but I didn't weigh it before I cut the outer edge off...I'm guessing stock weight at about 12 Lbs, but I could be wrong.


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Posted by: sic6 Feb 10 2014, 01:10 PM

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 6 2014, 12:01 PM) *

So you finally decided to jump into the "arena" with the rest of us idiots. poke.gif Aboot time. popcorn[1].gif


Looking forward to watching this!
I've got a few years on you, and my car has now been apart for about 7 years...you/ve got skills, will be done before I. Jealous, in a good way!

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 10 2014, 03:02 PM

QUOTE(sic6 @ Feb 10 2014, 02:10 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 6 2014, 12:01 PM) *

So you finally decided to jump into the "arena" with the rest of us idiots. poke.gif Aboot time. popcorn[1].gif


Looking forward to watching this!
I've got a few years on you, and my car has now been apart for about 7 years...you/ve got skills, will be done before I. Jealous, in a good way!

Thanks shades.gif

A new addition to the build list "Free Motion" needle bearings for the front, by Original Customs that I got from Rick. Well at least the check is in the mail biggrin.gif
Mo' money...and mo' work.
smile.gif

Posted by: McMark Feb 10 2014, 03:47 PM

Cool! My aluminum flywheel is about 3 lbs and my adapter ring is about 7. So looks like overall I'm about 6 lbs lighter than you for a total around 19lbs. idea.gif

I'll have a stock 914/6 flywheel to measure soon.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 10 2014, 04:06 PM

QUOTE(McMark @ Feb 10 2014, 04:47 PM) *

Cool! My aluminum flywheel is about 3 lbs and my adapter ring is about 7. So looks like overall I'm about 6 lbs lighter than you for a total around 19lbs. idea.gif

I'll have a stock 914/6 flywheel to measure soon.

The drilling I did on the adapter ring dropped almost 3/4 of a pound. I only drilled the holes bigger because they were already half way there.

I could lighten it a lot more, but this is a street car so I'm not too worried about it.
I'm guessing stock /6 fly and PP at just a hair under my weight.

Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 10 2014, 04:41 PM

Why reverse the gear on the dizzy?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 10 2014, 10:31 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 10 2014, 05:41 PM) *

Why reverse the gear on the dizzy?

Not just a matter of flipping it you have to use a different gear. The 3.0 uses a counter clockwise rotating dizzy the one I'm using rotates clockwise.

My dizzy for this project shades.gif

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Posted by: mrbubblehead Feb 11 2014, 12:55 AM

WOW! That is gonna be one nice engine Mark.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 11 2014, 05:48 AM

Thanks smile.gif

Anyone doing full rebuild on a SC engine and who are not using CIS might want to consider changing the CCW dizzy gear for a CW gear, then they can use an earlier dizzy.

BTW the CW gear is a standard VW gear from a type 1 or type 4, I took a gear from a 2.7 and it had a VW stamp on it.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 11 2014, 10:13 PM

Got to keep thinks rolling

Next job is the cam towers, I'm going to pull the spray bars and clean them proper.
The /6 towers are always a bit dirty.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 11 2014, 10:17 PM

First I pull the factory plugs and then the spray bars (tubes) come out fairly easy. Not shown is the rear line plug actually has a point on it and this is what holds the spray bar in place, not the plugs.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 11 2014, 10:21 PM

The cam towers are now a little cleaner, this cleaning took quite a while. I have see if I can find a small caliber gun brush tomorrow for the spray bars.

Towers to be continued...same bat time.... same bat channel...


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Posted by: mrbubblehead Feb 11 2014, 10:44 PM

mark, i have been using aircraft stripper on engine cases and gearbox cases. mag and aluminum. works fast and does not harm or etch the metal. little expensive. but its just so easy its worth it. just brush it on with a cheap chip brush.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 02:45 PM

Been feeling like shit...figured as much but it looks like I'm passing a kidney stone...oh well, I'll keep trying to carry on with the projects.

Just a tad bitchy.... mad.gif

Posted by: balljoint Feb 12 2014, 03:09 PM

Take a break. Drive to Brampton.

whistle[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 03:37 PM

QUOTE(balljoint @ Feb 12 2014, 04:09 PM) *

Take a break. Drive to Brampton.

whistle[1].gif

Planning to visit you soon.... to pick up my new penguin.... smile.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 03:56 PM

dp


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 03:57 PM

Working a bit slow today, but stiff upper lip got some towers to get done.

Need to tap for the new plugs, not much different than doing a type 4 galley plug.
You have to be careful not to distort the bearing bore, pipe plugs use a taper and you don't want the plug (or tap) to be jammed in too tight. You have to tap it deep enough so the plugs sits slightly below the surface. Do not use Teflon as it slippy enough to allow you to over torque the plug. Use something like loctite instead.

I'm using a 1/8" NPT steel pipe plugs with a hex head.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 04:01 PM

The plug and the fresh tapped hole.
This is how it must sit just below the surface when done.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 04:06 PM

While doing this it's a good time to chase the other threads.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 04:41 PM

Now....you're asking yourself why the hell is he doing all this work? Just to make the cam towers look pretty??

This is why, look at these burrs in the holes of the spray bars! Maybe they won't come off...maybe they will...do you feel lucky?


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2014, 04:46 PM

So I've been using Dr Evils favorite cleaner LA Awesome and I found this little brushes at the dollar store. They worked great.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 09:02 PM

Guess what I'm making smile.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 09:11 PM

First hint it's not finished...damn belt for my lathe broke sad.gif

Yep it's leather.


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Posted by: PanelBilly Feb 13 2014, 09:13 PM

HE for /6s?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 09:41 PM

QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Feb 13 2014, 10:13 PM) *

HE for /6s?

laugh.gif



Another hint other side of the head and what is that part sitting on? smile.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 09:44 PM

next..


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 09:51 PM

smile.gif

It's a jig for...???


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Posted by: bigkensteele Feb 13 2014, 09:59 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 13 2014, 07:51 PM) *

smile.gif

It's a jig for...???

ITB adapters?

Posted by: gms Feb 13 2014, 10:08 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 13 2014, 09:51 PM) *

smile.gif

It's a jig for...???

restrictor plates for you intake
happy11.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2014, 10:26 PM

Close.....custom phenolic spacers smile.gif
The jig will be for finish cutting them on my router table.

Center hole will be bigger, once I get a new belt on the lathe.

Posted by: Justinp71 Feb 14 2014, 12:16 PM

Nice thread! A carbed 3.0 is an awesome engine for a 914...

Have you given any thought to what you are using to seal the case? I used triple bond 1184, great stuff and it seals very well. Have a very good understanding as to how thick you want it and where you want it before starting.

Also make sure your case has the chamfers on both sides for the thru bolt o-rings and dont use rtv on the o-rings like wayne calls out!!! I had to pull my case back apart from doing that one...

good luck...

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2014, 12:23 PM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Feb 14 2014, 01:16 PM) *

Nice thread! A carbed 3.0 is an awesome engine for a 914...

Have you given any thought to what you are using to seal the case? I used triple bond 1184, great stuff and it seals very well. Have a very good understanding as to how thick you want it and where you want it before starting.

Also make sure your case has the chamfers on both sides for the thru bolt o-rings and dont use rtv on the o-rings like wayne calls out!!! I had to pull my case back apart from doing that one...

good luck...


For the most part I'm using Supertec's sealant regime, BUT I admit I'm not a big fan of Curil T and I probably won't even open that package.

The Hysol you can see on the oil galley plugs, etc. earlier in this thread, instead of using the usual JB weld for this job.


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Posted by: Justinp71 Feb 14 2014, 12:44 PM

Curil is a pita, like dealing with tree sap (gloves work well). But I had no leaks when I used it to replace my cams about 5 years ago.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 12:07 PM

This was a slow go making the jigs but here is my first phenolic spacer. smile.gif

5 more to go, but I'm also going to make 6 aluminum spacers to back up the injector notch so the phenolic spacer is fully supported.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 12:08 PM

Finished spacer


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:24 PM

Soaring through this job now, the chips are a flying sunglasses.gif




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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:25 PM

1979 3.0 big port head

Note the injector notch.




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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:26 PM

Phenolic spacer


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:27 PM

Aluminum spacer


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:36 PM

So why am I doing this?
When using the stock weber manifold the injector notch is way to close to the edge of the manifold to ever seal proper.
Also using just a phenolic spacer alone will also cause issues later on, as it will eventually leak.

The phenolic spacer will also help avoid carb heat soak issues.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 16 2014, 06:37 PM

The final product shades.gif

Edit: note I have the spacers on ass backwards, the aluminum spacer goes on the bottom to cover the FI notch, then the phenolic spacer and manifold.


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Posted by: sixnotfour Feb 17 2014, 03:06 AM

why not just fill the notch with weld ?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 08:27 AM

QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Feb 17 2014, 04:06 AM) *

why not just fill the notch with weld ?


Three reasons
1/ Even if I did I'd still want the phenolic spacer...seeing as it's good enough for PMO
2/ What if I decide I want to go FI later.
3/ I'm a cheap SOB and this cost me nothing but time, even the materials were free to me.
4/ welding would have also cost me mo' money...whooops...that's four reasons...

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 10:47 AM

So change gears a bit, not going to get much done today, family day weekend so I have to spend some time with the kiddies.

My hell holes and tank install. I know my holes are nice, but they still have a hair of surface rust, so I'm wondering what to do. The back pad area has no rust, that's just glue. I don't want to sand blast, that shit gets everywhere.
Thinking wire wheel and por-15 or something like that?

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


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Posted by: MrHyde Feb 17 2014, 10:58 AM

I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 11:06 AM

QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 17 2014, 11:58 AM) *

I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)


Yeh I got to go at it with some LA Awesome first, but it does have some surface rust.

BTW I posted those pics just to tease you Mike. happy11.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 11:52 AM

Cleaned it up a bit...now I am just teasing Mike poke.gif

Such a small area I'll do it right. I'll go at this with a wire wheel on a die grinder and epoxy it.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 11:59 AM

Back to the intake for a second.

I ported and epoxy painted these a while back, just soaked these in gas to make sure they are fuel proof.....looking good!

You can also see how little meat is left on the head side of the manifold after porting for the big port heads, All the more reason to back them up with those aluminum spacers.


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Posted by: MDG Feb 17 2014, 12:23 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 17 2014, 11:47 AM) *

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


They tend to get in the way if you don't . . .


Also, are you going to be using the relay board? If not, get rid of those brackets too.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 04:02 PM

QUOTE(MDG @ Feb 17 2014, 01:23 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 17 2014, 11:47 AM) *

Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?


They tend to get in the way if you don't . . .


Also, are you going to be using the relay board? If not, get rid of those brackets too.

I've been wondering if I should run a board or not...
How do you hook into the factory harness with out a board?

Posted by: Van914 Feb 17 2014, 04:54 PM

Mark,
I have a connector I bought from Perry for mine. Sold the car before I completed the Relay board removal. I still have it if you are interested.
Thanks
Van

Posted by: bulitt Feb 17 2014, 07:14 PM

Take the free one, they are not cheap!

"The front molded piece with the actual 14 holes thru it is part number 911.612.115.02 and the back half of the connector shell is 911.612.113.05. The same connector is available used from a number of sources. A 1971 914 used this connector on the steering column connector and many models of 911's used them on the engine bay relay panel."

Patrick sells them for 44$

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 17 2014, 07:18 PM

QUOTE(bulitt @ Feb 17 2014, 08:14 PM) *

Take the free one, they are not cheap!

"The front molded piece with the actual 14 holes thru it is part number 911.612.115.02 and the back half of the connector shell is 911.612.113.05. The same connector is available used from a number of sources. A 1971 914 used this connector on the steering column connector and many models of 911's used them on the engine bay relay panel."

Patrick sells them for 44$

I don't think he was offering it for free...but I did send Van a PM shades.gif

Posted by: MrHyde Feb 17 2014, 07:23 PM

QUOTE
BTW I posted those pics just to tease you Mike.


Har Har… tongue.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 20 2014, 12:34 PM

Dropped the crank assembly off at the balance shop today. smile.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 21 2014, 11:35 AM

More parts arrived today smile.gif

Full motion front bearings (Original Customs) from Rick.

I don't see any instructions, I'll have to email McMark and see if there's a "how to" thread.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 04:57 PM

Mmmmm time to bake some bearings.
The cam bearings look rough but they are smooth.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 05:03 PM

Now the totally scary part, sand blasting my bearings. unsure.gif

You do this with not just any sand, 120grit silicone oxide



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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 05:08 PM

You have to blast at low pressure I used 20psi, normally I blast at as high as I can get (120psi)

You just want to etch the surface, takes just a few swipes.

Still scary as shit.... huh.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 05:12 PM

Well this is what the air dried DFL coated bearings look like....let them flash dry for 15 minutes and then it's off to the oven for 1 hour at 350F.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 05:16 PM

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: mrbubblehead Feb 25 2014, 05:26 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 25 2014, 03:16 PM) *

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely popcorn[1].gif

wow mark, you got pretty big balls. im not sure i could bring myself to do it, let alone use them. are the bearings new or used?

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 05:49 PM

Ding!!!!

Well....they look smooth again smile.gif

too hot to measure yet.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 07:38 PM

They look good and the baked surface is stable, the thrusts have been polished with a soft cloth and only a trace of the DFL came off.
I can't measure a dimension change, instructions say .0002

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 07:38 PM

This site is acting weird for me.



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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 07:45 PM

What the fuch???pic's are moving from post to post???/

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 07:46 PM



Anyways tomorrows project, new rod bearings bye1.gif


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Posted by: 396 Feb 25 2014, 09:10 PM

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Feb 25 2014, 03:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 25 2014, 03:16 PM) *

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely popcorn[1].gif

wow mark, you got pretty big balls. im not sure i could bring myself to do it, let alone use them. are the bearings new or used?

Yes I agree. For mods of this magnitude, I rather outsource to some one that's been there done that. But then that me.

Posted by: 396 Feb 25 2014, 09:10 PM

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Feb 25 2014, 03:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 25 2014, 03:16 PM) *

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely popcorn[1].gif

wow mark, you got pretty big balls. im not sure i could bring myself to do it, let alone use them. are the bearings new or used?

Yes I agree. For mods of this magnitude, I rather outsource to some one that's been there done that. But then that me.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 09:28 PM

QUOTE(396 @ Feb 25 2014, 10:10 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Feb 25 2014, 03:26 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Feb 25 2014, 03:16 PM) *

BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely popcorn[1].gif

wow mark, you got pretty big balls. im not sure i could bring myself to do it, let alone use them. are the bearings new or used?

Yes I agree. For mods of this magnitude, I rather outsource to some one that's been there done that. But then that me.

Well now I have BTDT biggrin.gif
Not that bad, but the buy in for all this stuff makes it not worth it for a single job.
BTW I cheated, I did a practice run smile.gif

After the bearings I'm doing my new mahle's RSR piston skirts in DFL and the tops in ceramic. sunglasses.gif

Posted by: balljoint Feb 25 2014, 10:01 PM

Hey. Mark,

Can you rebuild a Toyota motor?

mellow.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 25 2014, 10:17 PM

QUOTE(balljoint @ Feb 25 2014, 11:01 PM) *

Hey. Mark,

Can you rebuild a Toyota motor?

mellow.gif

What did you do to my car mad.gif

or are you talking aboot the TuRD.....

Posted by: balljoint Feb 25 2014, 10:28 PM

confused24.gif

Of course I was talking about the Kitty TuRD.

Any other Toyota I had recently won acquired would be a long way from needing a refresh.

Kitty is pushing 350k. No sign of issue now, but down the road...

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 26 2014, 06:38 AM

The TuRD engine will last the life of the truck, but if it was to crap out yes I could rebuild it.
But it would be way cheaper to get a Japanese market engine. They sell your engine, low miles, complete for something like $1500 in Toronto.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 26 2014, 09:22 AM

Ok, geting my process down, this is a complete 911 engine bearing job ready for the oven.
It all about prep.

I'm thinking of offering this as a service, if I do I need a couple of better low pressure regulators.


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Posted by: r_towle Feb 26 2014, 07:41 PM

Just curious.
Why are you doing this to the bearings?
Mine have lasted 250k already in my 911, and as we have seen above, the TuRd has lasted even longer.

Pistons i understand.

What is the benefit to doing this to the bearings?

Maybe a link or search term to read up would help.....

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 27 2014, 07:19 AM

So you have looked at your bearings?
You haven't torn down the number of engines I have, the wear is often quite a bit more than you realize.
My engine had less miles on it than yours and it was out of an automatic, all the bearings (except#8) were shot and the nikasil cylinders were totally out of spec. Yet it was still a running engine.

Every bit helps even if this coating just lasts for break-in it's does its job. It also adds up to .0005 and seeing as this is a used standard crank (like most at the lower end of the spec) that may be a good thing. After baking the coating is quite durable, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner and acetone don't seem to harm it. Took a bit of effort to sand through it.
The piston skirts, well Mahle has been graphite coating them for years.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant

The ceramic coatings I'll be doing are to help with heat disbursement much like header coatings, I think most would agree any help in this area is a good thing.

Also a buddy wanted to try this stuff so all the material is free to me to try. shades.gif

Posted by: McMark Feb 27 2014, 10:26 AM

agree.gif I agree with both sides of that argument. biggrin.gif

It's not a bad thing to do (assuming it doesn't flake or gall, etc) and Mark's reasoning is totally legit. But I wouldn't pull apart an engine to install it.

But since it was free, I would have done the same thing. Experimentation time! boldblue.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 27 2014, 01:36 PM

I understand most flaking issues have been due to poor preparation or applying to much product. This process is all about prep and the labor is all in the prep. The spraying and baking is the easy part.

On the other side of the coin I have torn down engines and been very tempted to reuse bearings. In fact I have done this on my own engines many times with good results. But these bearings look ugly, not that they are out of spec, they are just stained. Coating these may offer a cost effective option.

Look at these bearings before and after, they are within spec.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 27 2014, 01:52 PM

How about these ones? These are 3.2-3.6 bearings, worth $160 new.
I've reprocessed the far right one, it is the worst one of the set. You could barely catch a a fingernail on the scratch in the center. The scratches on the other bearings you can't catch a finger nail on.
BTW these have about 30,000 miles on them.
If someone want's me to finish up the rest of the set I'd give a good deal on these.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 03:58 PM

Waiting to get my stuff back from the balance shop so I thought I'd mess with the wiring today.

I haven't got a connector and being a cheap ass I can't see paying $50 for just a connector, let alone seeing as I'm in Canada, the dollar, duty, taxes and and stupid expensive shipping the freaking thing might cost me almost $100 in my hand. sheeplove.gif
Fuch that mad.gif

So what to do confused24.gif ...... don't want a hack dry.gif

I have spares, and I have a relay board main harness connector (and an engine harness) so I took it apart and figured I had to flip and reverse the wires to line up.

That wasn't to bad...but I end up with 2 female connectors blink.gif damn!


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 04:10 PM



Didn't really want to make 14 little pins. idea.gif

So I have a whole pail of 911 relays and they have pins that fit, so I broke them out and found the other end is a bit too big.
That's better than being too small smile.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 04:12 PM

So I turned them down on my mini model lathe. I left a bit of a press fit.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 04:19 PM

I think this is going to work out just fine.
I wonder if a drop of loctite on the engine harness end would be ok on the pins?

I could snap it up now, but I'll wait till I get some longer red primary wire, these ones are cut a bit short. Why have a splice when you don't have to have one.

Note the top pic only shows one pin installed, almost every hole has a pin pressed in the final male connector.
Also I screwed up the first wiring attempt, as everything is backwards on the engine harness male connector, because that connector is flipped 180* from normal.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 04:59 PM

I used this diagram to figure this out...I wonder if I need both reds?

Min'es a carbed 3.0 so I just worked from the left side of the diagram.

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Posted by: Justinp71 Mar 3 2014, 05:43 PM

Not sure about the 2 reds, I can take a look at mine tonight.

Also keep in mind I think the 3.2 has an internal regulated alternator, where as I think the 3.0 does not?

Posted by: Luke M Mar 3 2014, 07:53 PM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Mar 3 2014, 04:43 PM) *

Not sure about the 2 reds, I can take a look at mine tonight.

Also keep in mind I think the 3.2 has an internal regulated alternator, where as I think the 3.0 does not?



My brothers 3.0 has an internal regulator and IIRC it started on the later 2.7 engines on up.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 3 2014, 08:45 PM

I don't think I have an internal regulator, I know for sure I'm using a fan assembly from a 2.7, I also have one from a 2.0 but that's a lower amp alternator.

I'll have to figure out were to mount a regulator.

I also have to figure out the rear window defogger, but I think it just needs a fused power and a ground.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 4 2014, 11:58 PM

This evening I decided to look at my exhaust ports, a few studs needed some work.

This one is snapped off so I made a drill bushing and went to work on it. I made my own drill bushing but you can buy these. It's very important that you drill down the center of the stud.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:04 AM

Then you have to dig out any left over bits of the steel stud. This is real important, if you don't your repair is going to suck balls.
Drilling centered is the key, if you did that right digging these last bits of steel out should be fairly easy.
Just a little patience...


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:06 AM

OK that's done time for the repair...or I should say lets Time-sert the repair biggrin.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:13 AM

Now you have to drill the hole to size, you use the drill bit included in the kit with just a hand tap handle. the Aluminium is soft so this goes easy.

I use a guide to keep the drill bit square with the port. You can buy this guide for $40..but you know...I'm cheap...so I made this one myself. rolleyes.gif shades.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:17 AM

Then you use this tool to cut a countersunk relief for the head of the timesert. Again important that you bottom this tool out so that the relief cut is deep enough


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:20 AM

Then you tap the hole, try to keep the tap as square as possible.
The finished hole ready for the insert.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:22 AM

Thread the oiled insert in as far as you can by hand.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:26 AM

Then use the driver to drive in the insert.
Really important that the driver is well oiled. This is because the driver expands the insert as it drives it home.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 5 2014, 12:30 AM

The finished repair, better than new. The other hole the threads are fine so I'll leave it alone.
That's one exhaust port, I have a few more of these to do tomorrow.


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Posted by: CptTripps Mar 5 2014, 03:54 AM

Great work!

My dad and I had to do about 10 of those on my first car. (1985 Saab 900 Turbo) I got REAL good at those after the 3rd or 4th one.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 6 2014, 08:44 AM

DING!

Balancing shop phoned! piratenanner.gif

Road trip! driving.gif

Posted by: wobbletop Mar 6 2014, 10:32 AM

I used a Timesert to fix a bolt that pulled the threads out of the block in my Subaru. Worked very well. Fairly easy to do and should prevent the steel-aluminum issue in the future (at least for that bolt).

/thread hi-jack

Posted by: mrbubblehead Mar 6 2014, 08:05 PM

i really like timeserts. i have most of the popular metric size kits. i dont know how i got along with out them.

Posted by: r_towle Mar 6 2014, 08:10 PM

Did you buy that tap handle?

Posted by: Jeffs9146 Mar 6 2014, 08:14 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 6 2014, 06:10 PM) *

Did you buy that tap handle?


Old School! My dad left me a bunch of those when he died!



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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 6 2014, 08:41 PM

QUOTE(r_towle @ Mar 6 2014, 09:10 PM) *

Did you buy that tap handle?

It didn't come with the kit, I bought it years ago.

Posted by: r_towle Mar 6 2014, 08:54 PM

My son made me mine..... aktion035.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 6 2014, 08:57 PM

I do make a lot of my own tools, but I didn't make that one. smile.gif

You should see the tool I'm making right now...oh wait... if you follow this thread you will be seeing it soon biggrin.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 11 2014, 07:20 AM

I had to Time-Sert a few of my exhaust studs now for another stud repair, this time the case. The one bell-housing mounting stud hole had a very sketchy helicoil repair. They didn't even drill the stud right out, plus it was only helicoiled in about a half inch. This would possibly be "OK" as a dirty repair, but I have to hang this half out on the engine stand for the build....not cool. unsure.gif

So I didn't want to buy another timesert kit, a regular Time-Sert wouldn't work anyways because it's been helicoiled, it would need a Big-Sert.
But I do have lots of 10mm VW case savers. These ones have an odd coarse standard outer thread and I didn't have a tap, so I got one from China, $10 delivered to my door.
This doesn't show the 3/4 hour spent yanking the helicoil, drilling out the rest of the old stud and tapping for the case saver but you get the idea....
Note the homemade insert driver. smile.gif

I think this is a good solution and I'm confident hanging my build from it. shades.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 11 2014, 09:18 AM

Next job, a few of my piston oil squirters weren't up to snuff. Most of the time these are stuck shut and a bit of Seafoam or MEK will free them up. These were odd in that they wouldn't close.
The little freaking things cost $40 each.

I read some how to's and they dremal the peens, then drill and tap the squirter. Seemed like a waste of time.
A drill bit (A 1/4" is the same OD as the squirter) took off the peens then a bit smaller bit to open up the squirter. A couple came right out with the bit, one I jammed in a coarse screw and yanked out with a slide hammer. They all came out real easy.


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Posted by: bulitt Mar 11 2014, 10:05 AM

Dr Evil time serted a speedo angle drive hold down at the clinic. I'm sold!

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 11 2014, 10:57 AM

This is the busness end of the squirter, it's just a ball bearing on a spring.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 11 2014, 11:03 AM

If you have the old peening removed correctly the new squirter will just pop in. I used a bit of Loctite on the OD of the squirter only, you don't want to go crazy here because loctite in the squirter would likely be bad.
Then you have to peen the squirter in, I picked 3 new spots.

Another homemade tool. smile.gif We need a bench grinder smiliey

And there you have it, relatively an easy job.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 11 2014, 12:38 PM

Just flying today....not bad from a guy on perc's for kidney stones who also nursing a sore shoulder from wiping out on the ski hill on Sunday...

Time to put my cam tower spray bars back in, if you go back in the thread you will see me taking them out for cleaning.

Many peep's don't recommend bead blasting the towers but I did. I then blew out and power washed them 3 separate times just to be sure no beads were left behind.

As you re-install the bars you have to be super careful of the orientation. Both bars are the same but one goes in backwards of the other. When you get it to the proper spot you use a screwdriver to center the hole and the rear bolt has a tit on it the goes into the hole on the bar. Then a bit of Loctite on the 1/8" NPT plugs and your done. Very important that you tapped the plugs deep enough, you don't want to over tighten the plugs.

Since I'm not ready for these yet I bagged them to keep them clean.


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Posted by: mrbubblehead Mar 12 2014, 09:37 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 11 2014, 05:20 AM) *

I had to Time-Sert a few of my exhaust studs now for another stud repair, this time the case. The one bell-housing mounting stud hole had a very sketchy helicoil repair. They didn't even drill the stud right out, plus it was only helicoiled in about a half inch. This would possibly be "OK" as a dirty repair, but I have to hang this half out on the engine stand for the build....not cool. unsure.gif

So I didn't want to buy another timesert kit, a regular Time-Sert wouldn't work anyways because it's been helicoiled, it would need a Big-Sert.
But I do have lots of 10mm VW case savers. These ones have an odd coarse standard outer thread and I didn't have a tap, so I got one from China, $10 delivered to my door.
This doesn't show the 3/4 hour spent yanking the helicoil, drilling out the rest of the old stud and tapping for the case saver but you get the idea....
Note the homemade insert driver. smile.gif

I think this is a good solution and I'm confident hanging my build from it. shades.gif
that is a great idea.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 13 2014, 06:53 AM

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.
My case is now clean and bagged ready for assembly aktion035.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 13 2014, 07:00 AM

Ooooooppppps!!!!! Don't forget the main secret stud! that would really fuch my day if I forgot that one.





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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 13 2014, 11:44 AM

Not part of the build... but so slick I had to show this... smile.gif

BTW These are not my heads, not my twin plug work, I'd never break the fins like this, to me breaking the fins is shoddy machine prep, but it's what the customer had. I just added this to show a Timesert plug hole repair.


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Posted by: mrbubblehead Mar 13 2014, 09:13 PM

mark, is that a "big" sert? 14mm?

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 13 2014, 10:23 PM

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Mar 13 2014, 11:13 PM) *

mark, is that a "big" sert? 14mm?

Time-Sert spark plug repair set beer.gif

Big-sert is oversize Time-Serts for repairing oversized holes like old helicoil repairs.

Posted by: 914Timo Mar 14 2014, 01:34 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 13 2014, 02:53 PM) *

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.


Very nice, but is there some reason why you removed them in the first place ?? unsure.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 14 2014, 05:41 AM

QUOTE(914Timo @ Mar 14 2014, 03:34 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 13 2014, 02:53 PM) *

First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.


Very nice, but is there some reason why you removed them in the first place ?? unsure.gif


Well.... it was for sure easier to clean it this way, but the real reason is when I bought this core it was already torn down and every stud including the head and case studs were removed by the PO.
It all came in well labeled baggies.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 14 2014, 02:14 PM

Starting to get my ducks in a row for the bottom end build aktion035.gif

Just a few last bits, first the oil pump, one thing I didn't like about Wayne's book was the lack of information on certain parts like the oil pump. His book the pump is voodoo and shouldn't be taken apart...I call BS on that.
I took it apart and with a straight edge found it to have .008 clearance on each side...just a bit sloppy IMHO


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 14 2014, 02:18 PM

It also had a bunch of minor scratches, so first order of business was to treat the interior with DFL (dry film lube) coating.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 14 2014, 02:29 PM

Then using sandpaper and a flat glass I faced the surface till I had .002 -.003 clearance I only took about .012 off the total length of the pump.
I also honed any rough edges on the gears before reassembly.

Then I put it back together, tightening each nut a half turn at a time and constantly making sure it spun freely. Once done I primed it with a bit of assembly grease.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 14 2014, 02:36 PM

Next I cleaned out the intermediate shaft.
It has a circlip and little plug in the end. It came out easy and then I just used a bottle brush to clean it out. You wouldn't the sludge that came out of this, if you ever rebuild a /6 you have to do this job.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 15 2014, 11:16 PM

Didn't get a whole lot done today, but I did make some tools.

First up is P221 and P222, these will hold the rods and chain up as I place the engine case halves together.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 15 2014, 11:22 PM

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 15 2014, 11:26 PM

This one I don't have finished yet, I still have make the plundger.
It going to be a piston circlip injector.


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Posted by: mrbubblehead Mar 16 2014, 05:27 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 15 2014, 10:22 PM) *

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.

mark, how do you feel about a few wraps of black tape over the threads and a dab of DOW 55 as lube to slide the o-ring down the stud? would that be sufficient if your tool wasnt available?

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 16 2014, 08:56 PM

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Mar 16 2014, 07:27 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Mar 15 2014, 10:22 PM) *

Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.

Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.

mark, how do you feel about a few wraps of black tape over the threads and a dab of DOW 55 as lube to slide the o-ring down the stud? would that be sufficient if your tool wasnt available?

It will work but depending on what you are using for sealants you may be pressed for time. One of the sealants I'll be using is threebond so I have to be finishing the torque in 30 minutes. This tool will speed up the install of the Orings.

I will be using Dow 55 on the Orings. shades.gif

Posted by: Qarl Mar 16 2014, 09:07 PM

My OCD tendancies love your attention to detail!

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 16 2014, 09:10 PM

Shit about to get real shades.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 16 2014, 09:13 PM

The tool du jour smile.gif

Bolt stretch gauge for the ARP bolts. Homemade of course.... biggrin.gif

With ARP bolts you can torque them, but the recommended (for 3.0 rod bolts) is measuring for .010" of stretch.

Note I checked them with a torque wrench, the ARP recommended torque was .010 stretch.
So i wouldn't be afraid to use the torque if one didn't have a strech gauge.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 22 2014, 10:26 PM

Had to do a quick check to make sure there was no issues with my crank gear change, I'm going from a CCW dizzy to a CW dizzy and I'm using a 2.7 dizzy crank drive gear.
I've be told a 3.2 gear is slightly a different size and can cause issue, but this one seems to work just fine, not to tight or too sloppy.


Altough I took this gear off my 2.7 crank it is the same gear as on a type1 or type four engine. It even had a VW logo stamped on it. shades.gif

BTW this was before I totally cleaned the crank and for this check I didn't care about the orientation of the #8 bearing..


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 22 2014, 10:44 PM

Major progress today...I'm beat.... need yellowsleep[1].gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 22 2014, 10:53 PM

Sorry I couldn't do a better set of pic's on the build up, but once you lay down the sealants you only have maximum of 45 minutes till the case has to be torqued.

But.... w00t.gif smilie_pokal.gif


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Posted by: Justinp71 Mar 23 2014, 12:03 AM

Looking Good! That's a good feeling to get the case closed up.

Another thing, I noticed your running a single pulley, is it an older 126mm? I just put one on my car (vs the stock SC 136mm) and it slowed the fan down some it runs a little hotter at idle now, I'm going to go back to the larger pulley.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 23 2014, 12:10 AM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Mar 23 2014, 02:03 AM) *

Looking Good! That's a good feeling to get the case closed up.

Another thing, I noticed your running a single pulley, is it an older 126mm? I just put one on my car (vs the stock SC 136mm) and it slowed the fan down some it runs a little hotter at idle now, I'm going to go back to the larger pulley.


I didn't measure it, but it's the one that came with my 3.0 core and it is quite a bit larger than the two 2.7 and one 2.0 pulley's that I have compared it to.
edit:I get an OD of 134mm and it does have a 930 part number. I'd rather not replace as it is balanced to my engine.

Posted by: Mark Henry Mar 23 2014, 07:47 AM

Time to start thinking about the next phase smile.gif

Pistons, new Mahle, 3.0 RSR, Goetze rings
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering.

I'll still have to DFL coat the skirts, and ceramic coated tops,

I'm not sure where these originally came from, guessing they may be leftovers from a racing program. They also might be 2nd's as they were a hair under size for stock 3.0 jugs. That issue was fixed in the replating spec.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 19 2014, 10:27 AM

So between kidney stones, dealing with my kids problems, my mom taking a tumble and the bad boy below I've fallen behind on not just the 914 but all my project.

Hopefully I can catch up but I won't have a bunch of time to on this site this summer.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 19 2014, 10:31 AM

I did get some more headwork done.
Took me a while to get my head surfacing jig sorted but in the end it worked real good.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 19 2014, 10:38 AM

No pic's but I also have the rear 5-bolt hubs, stubs and new bearing done.

Posted by: Justinp71 Jun 19 2014, 12:07 PM

Nice!

What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?


Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 19 2014, 12:55 PM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Jun 19 2014, 02:07 PM) *

Nice!

What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?


Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
Yes, Carbs.

Posted by: Qarl Jun 19 2014, 12:56 PM

[/quote]

Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
[/quote]

Good choice on the heads. That's what I have in my 3.2 short stroke!

Posted by: Chris H. Jun 19 2014, 04:31 PM



A '67 on a late pan...the stance is really nice. You finished it?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 20 2014, 07:21 AM

QUOTE(Chris H. @ Jun 19 2014, 06:31 PM) *

A '67 on a late pan...the stance is really nice. You finished it?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=238037&st=0&gopid=2052404&#entry2052404

Posted by: Justinp71 Jun 20 2014, 09:32 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 19 2014, 11:55 AM) *

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Jun 19 2014, 02:07 PM) *

Nice!

What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?


Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
Yes, Carbs.


Nice! If you're looking for weber 40mm ida's, I have a nice pair already tuned for a 3.0 (it atleast should be close for yours). They were rebuilt a few years back.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 20 2014, 11:41 AM

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Jun 20 2014, 11:32 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 19 2014, 11:55 AM) *

QUOTE(Justinp71 @ Jun 19 2014, 02:07 PM) *

Nice!

What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?


Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
Yes, Carbs.


Nice! If you're looking for weber 40mm ida's, I have a nice pair already tuned for a 3.0 (it atleast should be close for yours). They were rebuilt a few years back.

Thanks but I already have a set;)

QUOTE
Carburetors, Weber 40mm IDA, rebuilt, new carb kits, 34mm venturies, 135 main jets, F3 emulsion tubes, 180 air correction, 55 idle, Ported stock manifolds, custom phenolic spacers.
K&N filters and rain hats, Weber linkage
Carter fuel pump

Posted by: Justinp71 Jun 20 2014, 01:24 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 20 2014, 10:41 AM) *



QUOTE
Carburetors, Weber 40mm IDA, rebuilt, new carb kits, 34mm venturies, 135 main jets, F3 emulsion tubes, 180 air correction, 55 idle, Ported stock manifolds, custom phenolic spacers.
K&N filters and rain hats, Weber linkage
Carter fuel pump



Oh good, you may want to consider 36mm venturi's if you're going to rev past 6000 much, I guess you can get it together first and then decide. I also installed the AEM 02 sensor. Its great for tuning, but I found that these carbs like to run rich in almost all rpm bands that aren't WOT.

Can't wait to see it done! driving.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:11 AM

Too much life in the way so progress is slower than hoped, but progress never the less.

Heads done, mild P&P, new valves, guides including a trimming the tops and Eibach springs.

P206 spring setting tool (far left) made life easy.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:14 AM

Getting my poop in a group for the big job.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:17 AM

Checking ring gaps, the factory Malhes run tight tolerances .006 to .012 ring gaps Mine are damn close to the .006 mark...just a hair over.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:20 AM

Last time (knock on wood) I see these works of art


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:22 AM

Supertec head studs all ready.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:24 AM

Putting the Jugs and Slugs on the shortblock


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:32 AM

Unfortunetly due to being in a rush to zip things up before sealants set I didn't get any pics. I chose to do the rockers first and drop the whole side on as one head. It can be done either way, this is how the factory did it. I've done a few 911 engines and I say the rocker first method is the easiest.
One trick I figured out is it's hard to drop the headstud nuts and washers on, I found if you put them on a screwdriver they dropped/guided on perfectly.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 07:34 AM

Starting to look like an engine aktion035.gif

I'll see if I can find the time to do some cam work this weekend.



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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 08:08 AM

One hitch I did run into is my cylinder air deflectors. I though they were all the same so I had a prepped set of 2.7 deflectors.....Wrong!
3.0-3.2 only...fuck!!!!

Didn't want to wait so I made (copied) these cool 906 style deflectors out of Stainless steel.


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Posted by: puffinator Jul 9 2014, 09:45 AM

I sure would appreciate you showing how you are going to go about your deck height and piston to valve clearance checks. I am doing a similar rebuild with JE pistons, '72E cylinders and '75 heads but still using the original case but with squirters, etc.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 9 2014, 11:05 AM

QUOTE(puffinator @ Jul 9 2014, 11:45 AM) *

I sure would appreciate you showing how you are going to go about your deck height and piston to valve clearance checks. I am doing a similar rebuild with JE pistons, '72E cylinders and '75 heads but still using the original case but with squirters, etc.


I did that a long time ago, I sort of cheat and do it using measured volume. Basically this gives you both head CC and deck all in one shot.
When doing this I do it at several deck heights and measure so I then just have to look at my notes to figure out what exactly I have.

This link show exactly how I did it, look at what members Haycait911 and cgarr does, I did the same thing.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/792313-measuring-head-volume-ccs-compression-ratio.html


Since I did a dry fit my deck came out at .046" and my notes said that .045" is 10.1:1 CR damn near dead nuts on. To run this CR you need to run twin-plug.

Posted by: barefoot Jul 10 2014, 12:47 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jul 9 2014, 09:24 AM) *

Putting the Jugs and Slugs on the shortblock


WOW, I've got 6 cyl. envy, I'm sure you've got cubic money invested in this engine.
Any estimates for us poor slobs??

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 10 2014, 02:42 PM

I'd have to add it up* but I'm guessing a bit over $10K in parts so far and I still have to do the oil lines and cooler.
Since I took my time collecting (4 years) I was able to wait for "deals"

Examples
This piston and cylinder kit, I paid $1500 (IIRC) for the new pistons but the pistons were slightly under stock size spec, but since I was re-plating the nikasil (LN) I just had it done to the spec. The result is a new P&C set Mahle RS that is worth $5000 for half price.
Tank I waited and got the complete new DWD tank, fill neck and console for $800
I traded parts for the carbs, dizzy, Fuchs, axle parts, MSD, headers...etc.

I also bought a 2.7 core with fan/alt and a bunch of new parts for $1200 and I'm not counting that even though I am using the fan/alt and half the new parts it came with.
It has a good std. crank plus parts and I've machined the heads, so I think I could still easily get my money back, but it's my backup engine till I'm happy with this one.


Add labour (note I did everything, including all machining except the for balance job) and I'd guess north of 160-200 hours. So if you were paying "full pop" I'd say this is about $30K job. Maybe more.

(* I don't really want to tally up the bill...due to the fact I might shit myself)

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 13 2014, 12:18 AM

One of my "deals" was a new set of WEB camshafts off of a member, but I didn't understand when he said they were built on 993 (964) cam cores but they do work on 4 bearing towers.
He did include the 993 sprockets, but what I didn't realize was that to use them the adjusting tools were $1000 huh.gif

Crap.... sad.gif

So I did some research and asked for a solution on the bird and found the hot ticket for the 993 was to weld up the cam nose, cut in a woodruff keyway in and convert it all back to the early 911 timing sprockets.

So I had my crank grinder submerge weld and refinish the ends, I also had him cut off the 993 power steering drive. That cost me $100
(BTW the weld porosity does not matter, it's structural but it's not a bearing surface.)

But I still needed to cut a woodruff keyway, no problem just get a $25 cutter and be done right?
Wrong! unsure.gif

Freaking 911 cams are so freaking hard I'd need an expensive carbide cutter. rolleyes.gif

More research...on youtube guys were cutting keyways with dremels...crude, but the key was just for adjusting the cam timing, it's the bolt (or big nut), that's what holds the sprocket in place, not the key. Still I didn't want a hack.

A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.


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Posted by: MrHyde Jul 13 2014, 07:37 AM

Where there's a will, there's a way. ?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 13 2014, 07:55 AM

QUOTE(MrHyde @ Jul 13 2014, 09:37 AM) *

Where there's a will, there's a way. ?

It's the Canadian way wink.gif

Now I have at least a couple hours today cleaning all the grit off my lathe and re-oiling it. rolleyes.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 14 2014, 06:51 AM

The WEB-CAMs built on 993 cores 2nd pic shows the power steering drive that was cut off. You have to cut it off if you want to run a stock cooler.
They are WEB grind 120/104 which is comparable to a MOD-S or IIRC a GE60 cam.
Cam card says to set cam timing at 5.2mm. This is a carb or mechanicail FI cam, the bigger the cam timing number the hotter the cam. In the old days this would be called a "hot street, club racing or half-race cam".
I'm hoping for hot street but driveable, I don't spend much time in traffic.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 14 2014, 06:54 AM

Installing the cams, note new chains and sprocket chowtime.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 14 2014, 06:56 AM

Setting the cam sprocket alignment with a stromski straightedge and she's ready for the next step...cam timing. bravo.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 14 2014, 08:21 AM

On a none engine related issue I painted up my fuchs with the RSR rustolium silver...right now I'm torn between painting the background and leaving them as is.

what do you like?

That's a polished lip under the tape and oh yeh... I installed my rear hubs. smile.gif




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Posted by: gms Jul 14 2014, 08:23 AM

Looks good Mark!

Posted by: wobbletop Jul 14 2014, 08:33 AM

Making great progress Mark!

I always wondered how long those plastic chain guides last, but I guess there is no real contact with them and they are only there so they don't move when the car goes over bumps?

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 14 2014, 09:58 AM

QUOTE(wobbletop @ Jul 14 2014, 10:33 AM) *

Making great progress Mark!

I always wondered how long those plastic chain guides last, but I guess there is no real contact with them and they are only there so they don't move when the car goes over bumps?



Thanks Walter and Glenn

I've torn down several engines and have never seen an issue with the plastic chain ramps. I say they have contact, they sort of have a zero load, they just barely contact the chain. The "load" is on the sprockets. It's recommended to replace them during a rebuild and they don't cost much. These ones are of course new.


Posted by: peteyd Jul 15 2014, 08:17 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jul 12 2014, 10:18 PM) *


A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.


I like your thinking outside the box Mark. Very ingenious!

Posted by: Mark Henry Jul 15 2014, 09:08 AM

QUOTE(peteyd @ Jul 15 2014, 10:17 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jul 12 2014, 10:18 PM) *


A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.

End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.


I like your thinking outside the box Mark. Very ingenious!

Thanks Pete

It did take a bit of head scratching for sure. The thing I was quite impressed with was the real Dremel stones, doing a heavy cut like that I was expecting to have issues with the corners rounding over.
That's why I bought 8 stones. They surprisingly stayed quite sharp.

The quality of the real Dremel stones are evident as that die grinder (air) is rated at 30,000rpm and lesser 1/8"shafts bend like a pretzel at that rpm.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 06:01 PM

Been a while since I have posted, but I have been making progress. It just in to test fit a few things and to tack in the mount.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 06:03 PM

smile.gif



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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 06:09 PM

Quicky cradle I made for my scissor table before I took it off the stand, works real good and keeps the engine stable


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 06:29 PM

I also have mounted the McMarks Free-Motion front A arm kit that I bought off Rick.
Here you see the fresh bead blasted arms and the bearing sleeves. the sleeves are a barely a slip fit, I measured .003". I used loctite 620 to fix them in place, this loctite is actually made for this purpose.

Not shown is I then PPG epoxy primed the arms and parts and then finished with Nason black. It spray paint but I just used a brush, I don't really care if there are brush marks.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 07:27 PM

I never like the seals on this kit, they are just O-rings, so I'm doing some experimenting.
One is this I use the thick 911 oil tube O-ring and a slightly modified crank timing gear snap ring. Bit tight as the o-ring is a bit small on the ID, but I think it will work good.

2nd I put a beetle upper front torsion arm seal in backwards, used a bead of RTV and it closed up the gap on the bear bering very nicely.

3rd I used the heat tube grommets from a beetle to seal the thrust bearings.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 08:05 PM

The finished A arm rebuild, now it's time for struts.

You can also see I have added a stock sway bar, my base 1.8 didn't have swaybars. I think the sway bar drop links are too long (WTF?), so I'll wait till I get the ride height sorted before I shorten them up a bit.

Note I've since replaced the stock bar with a Tarett 22mm hollow bar.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 14 2015, 08:09 PM

Struts are ready to go but I have to wait till I have wheels, got to keep it rolling.


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Posted by: MrHyde Feb 16 2015, 09:31 AM

Lookin good Mark... We're going to have to get a Orange 914 Ontario meet going this spring/summer... :-)

Posted by: Mark Henry May 1 2017, 10:19 PM

Trying to get my ass back in gear and get this done for June. Want to spend at least a couple hours per day on it or the next 6 weeks, If I can it's a doable goal.

The bracket I made to mount the MSD in the stock location.


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Posted by: Mark Henry May 1 2017, 10:23 PM

My starter, Ford solenoid and backup light switch wiring.


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Posted by: Mark Henry May 1 2017, 10:25 PM

My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.


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Posted by: Mark Henry May 1 2017, 10:38 PM

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.


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Posted by: Mark Henry May 1 2017, 10:44 PM

Just have to figure out the other side for regulator, battery and the MSD hook-up. I don't want to cut the MSD wires so I'll loop them and tuck them away hidden behind the battery.


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Posted by: 6freak May 2 2017, 02:41 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 1 2017, 09:25 PM) *

My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.

put the PMO fuel rails on there and loose 4 possible leaks...good luck looks great
smile.gif

Posted by: raynekat May 2 2017, 06:41 PM

Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.


QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 1 2017, 09:38 PM) *

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.


Posted by: Mark Henry May 2 2017, 08:58 PM

QUOTE(raynekat @ May 2 2017, 08:41 PM) *

Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.


QUOTE(Mark Henry @ May 1 2017, 09:38 PM) *

Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.




The stuff I used is just the cheap generic Expandable Braided Sleeve, the rest of my harness done in heat shrink tubing and factory hard tube. I got it from Princess Auto, the Canadian version of Harbor Freight.

I found this place in the states that sells some real cool stuff.

http://www.electriduct.com/Braided-Sleeving.html#AllBraidedSleeving

Posted by: wndsnd May 2 2017, 09:18 PM

Making good progress Mark. Looks great.

John

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:17 PM

Reason for not being around here much is I'm making a push to get my conversion done and on the road. So you could say I'm around in 914 spirit. biggrin.gif

I found a great big hole in my firewall. huh.gif smile.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:24 PM

I know many don't like the stock firewall pad, heavy known to trap water, but there's zero rust behind mine, that just glue.
Mostly using it because I'm starting to get sensitive to the loud and a weber /6 is going to need all the help it can get in the noise deadening dept.




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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:30 PM

I made a mount for my MSD out of an old butchered 914/6 repro CDI mount. It's almost out of sight and it needs no extension for the trigger connection.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:39 PM

bit of paint magic...


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:42 PM

Ugly struts sad.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:43 PM

pretty parts wub.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:47 PM

beer.gif

911 T struts and hubs, Alfa Brembo calipers, new rotors and bearings, tie rod kit, new ball joints, Bilstien strut inserts I had.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:51 PM

914 V-calipers on the rear.



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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 7 2017, 10:56 PM

dead tired..... yellowsleep[1].gif


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Posted by: Krieger Jun 7 2017, 11:41 PM

That's a big ass hole! biggrin.gif

Looking good! You will need to drive it one time without the cover on there. It sounds amazing.

Posted by: porschetub Jun 8 2017, 12:16 AM

Wow that's not an opening ,its room for other stuff lol-2.gif lol-2.gif ,never seen one that big.
MSD not sure was going there but researched and found a reasonable high failure rate,moved to ebay and found lots of units for sale requiring a rebuild ....not sure really reckon they are stromberg.gif .
Good luck on the build nice to see you are moving on, beer.gif .

Posted by: wobbletop Jun 8 2017, 08:04 AM

Mark, the only pill I found laying around for the MSD was 7000 rpm.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 8 2017, 08:40 AM

QUOTE(wobbletop @ Jun 8 2017, 10:04 AM) *

Mark, the only pill I found laying around for the MSD was 7000 rpm.

Hi Walter I'll take it! biggrin.gif

My engine to be safe I'll run about a 6800 red line, but it's fully balanced, ARP rod bolts, heavier eibach sport valve springs, etc., so on paper I should have a 72-7300 rpm red line.
The 7K pill should work fine for me.

I almost never hit the rev limiter anyways, as they are actually hard on the engine due to loading/unloading forces...it's one of those lesser of two evils type of deals.

I'll PM you.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 11 2017, 08:59 PM

Finished hole.
Well almost... I notice I still have to glue the bottom little strip in. smile.gif




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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 11 2017, 09:24 PM

Tried my first aluminum TIG welding project it a breather/puke can.

What can I say, likely not even close to Ben's standards, Welding Al is not as easy as it looks, but after watching a bunch of YT vids I was able to get some semi-decent welds. A lot of technique, like driving a car the has two clutches, two sticks and you have to adjust the timing manually all at the same time.
Likely didn't help that I was using some very old left outside Al sheet I found.

That said I think it's passable. I made the can so it clears the lid springs and the lid release tube. It's fully baffled and has a sump that holds over a quart of scummy oil. the finished install will have a petcock valve and a tube running down so I can drain it right into my oil pan. bottom has a hole cut to 1/8" NPT.

Wonder if anyone would be interested in this as a product idea.gif
I do have all the patterns and bending forms.



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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 11 2017, 09:29 PM

The puke was practice for the number one thing holding up my project...the 914-6 cooler.


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 01:13 PM

Likely the last time I see my engine this clean. biggrin.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 01:20 PM

Why I made such a big hole.
As an experiment I left off my front tin to see if it can be R&R in car, yes it can but the screws are a real PITA to put in.
The upside is I can easily do the timing, R&R the fan/alt and even the front chain covers in car. thumb3d.gif


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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 01:23 PM

In she goes piratenanner.gif




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Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 01:36 PM

I made up these puppies to attach my heat hoses. No heat for now so Ill just cap the bottoms off, but if I add heater boxes I'm ready to go.
BTW except for my front shroud tin I made the surround tin.


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Posted by: mb911 Jun 15 2017, 02:03 PM

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 15 2017, 02:24 PM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:03 PM) *

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.


Yes, I'm learning some materials the results are interesting. I'm self taught with youtube, the biggest thing I learned so far is if you contaminate your electrode just stop, snap off the fouled bit and regrind. 2nd is slow down and let the cleaning action work before going for a puddle.
Still working on feeding the rod through welding gloves. unsure.gif

Posted by: mb911 Jun 15 2017, 02:41 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 15 2017, 12:24 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:03 PM) *

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.


Yes, I'm learning some materials the results are interesting. I'm self taught with youtube, the biggest thing I learned so far is if you contaminate your electrode just stop, snap off the fouled bit and regrind. 2nd is slow down and let the cleaning action work before going for a puddle.
Still working on feeding the rod through welding gloves. unsure.gif



Most of us that specialize in aluminum and non ferrous don't use filler feed glove.. I do for stainless as its a much slower process feed wise as the welds are much smaller.

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 16 2017, 06:59 AM

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:41 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 15 2017, 12:24 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:03 PM) *

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.


Yes, I'm learning some materials the results are interesting. I'm self taught with youtube, the biggest thing I learned so far is if you contaminate your electrode just stop, snap off the fouled bit and regrind. 2nd is slow down and let the cleaning action work before going for a puddle.
Still working on feeding the rod through welding gloves. unsure.gif



Most of us that specialize in aluminum and non ferrous don't use filler feed glove.. I do for stainless as its a much slower process feed wise as the welds are much smaller.

I see a lot of guys don't wear a glove for the filler hand, part of that makes sense on light AL as it doesn't run wide open. But I still don't like all the UV rays, so I think I'll try a light weight glove and maybe cut a couple fingers out.

I'll have to remember not to pick up a hot piece with my filler hand...but I imaging the learning curve is PDQ on that.

Posted by: mb911 Jun 16 2017, 11:33 AM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 16 2017, 04:59 AM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:41 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 15 2017, 12:24 PM) *

QUOTE(mb911 @ Jun 15 2017, 04:03 PM) *

Looks good..

Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.


Yes, I'm learning some materials the results are interesting. I'm self taught with youtube, the biggest thing I learned so far is if you contaminate your electrode just stop, snap off the fouled bit and regrind. 2nd is slow down and let the cleaning action work before going for a puddle.
Still working on feeding the rod through welding gloves. unsure.gif



Most of us that specialize in aluminum and non ferrous don't use filler feed glove.. I do for stainless as its a much slower process feed wise as the welds are much smaller.

I see a lot of guys don't wear a glove for the filler hand, part of that makes sense on light AL as it doesn't run wide open. But I still don't like all the UV rays, so I think I'll try a light weight glove and maybe cut a couple fingers out.

I'll have to remember not to pick up a hot piece with my filler hand...but I imaging the learning curve is PDQ on that.



The best is when you have a student bring you a weld that was just welded on and lets you pick it up with bare hands.. Ouch..

Also look at buying a Tig finger they work nicely ..

Posted by: Mark Henry Jun 16 2017, 04:09 PM

Making some major progress. cheer.gif

I have the weekend to try and get poop done, then I have to work on other peeps stuff to pay the bills.


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Posted by: wndsrfr Jun 16 2017, 08:20 PM

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jun 16 2017, 02:09 PM) *

Making some major progress. cheer.gif

I have the weekend to try and get poop done, then I have to work on other peeps stuff to pay the bills.

Sweet "S" curve conduit to take up the slack in the clutch & speedo cables & keep them away from the header....I like it. Give us a close-up of the handiwork there....

Posted by: wndsnd Jun 16 2017, 08:21 PM

Yes, looking good Mark.

beerchug.gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 18 2017, 05:42 AM

biggrin.gif


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CaU9UQmFfk

Posted by: gereed75 Oct 18 2017, 07:28 AM

Yea daddy!! Very nice!! Cool huh??

Posted by: JmuRiz Oct 18 2017, 07:43 AM

Good stuff...makes you want to make a lexan 'firewall' to look at the glorious engine and distributor all the time.

Posted by: Krieger Oct 18 2017, 07:47 AM

piratenanner.gif Sounds awesome! Good job Mark! I was hoping to hear /watch it while you drive, but oh well your hands were full. Thanks for a little morning motivation. I'm going to pick up my six from Chris's house today!

Posted by: 76-914 Oct 18 2017, 08:53 AM

Nothing like the sound of the P-6. beerchug.gif

Posted by: ValcoOscar Oct 18 2017, 09:11 AM

Mark-

Great success, sounds terrific.
I admire your mechanical skills and patience. pray.gif

We want a test drive video driving.gif driving.gif driving.gif driving.gif

Oscar




Posted by: Justinp71 Oct 18 2017, 04:29 PM


Looks and sounds great!

Posted by: Mark Henry Oct 19 2017, 07:15 AM

I try to remember to take a vid driving, actually I did take some driving footage, but I guess my old cheap camera and small SD card only has a minute of storage.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2021, 03:40 PM

Well it looks like I'm going deeper into the rabbit hole...I just acquired a fuel injection system.

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Posted by: Montreal914 Feb 12 2021, 03:45 PM

popcorn[1].gif

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 12 2021, 03:51 PM

SDS EM5-6F ECU
programmer
mixture knob
2 bar map sensor (will need a one bar MAP for my NA engine)
57 cc Siemens injectors/harness
crank pulley set up for signal, (IIRC it's a GoingSuperFast pulley).
hall sensor
12 custom length Beru wires
distributor block off plug
IAV (not sure if this is for fast idle or AC)
wire harness c/w relays (fuel pump, plus two more programmable relays)
1 wire temp sensor
intake air temp sensor
coil packs (X2 for twin plug)
installation/tuning manual

But what I do need is a intake, so it either ITB's, a 3.2 plenum or something custom made.
I'm likely going to do a plenum system, so I don't have to run in AlphaN. Plus I'm getting old, looking to quiet down the intake a little.

Posted by: Shivers Feb 12 2021, 11:05 PM

With all the skills I've seen displayed, I'm surprised you haven't made your own ITB's. Some stellar work dude.

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2021, 08:01 AM

QUOTE(Shivers @ Feb 13 2021, 12:05 AM) *

With all the skills I've seen displayed, I'm surprised you haven't made your own ITB's. Some stellar work dude.


BTDT

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=210004&mode=threaded&pid=1862152

Posted by: JmuRiz Feb 13 2021, 10:31 AM

3.2 intakes are cool but the used prices I’ve seen are crazy high.
Was entertaining something like that on the 2.7 but will stick with carbs until there’s a lower priced EFI solution (jealous of the American V8 systems)

Posted by: Mark Henry Feb 13 2021, 10:45 AM

QUOTE(JmuRiz @ Feb 13 2021, 11:31 AM) *

3.2 intakes are cool but the used prices I’ve seen are crazy high.
Was entertaining something like that on the 2.7 but will stick with carbs until there’s a lower priced EFI solution (jealous of the American V8 systems)


agree.gif I was also thinking I could mod a boxster plenum but they're not cheap as well. It has me thinking of a home built solution something like this below, but maybe a twin plenum like on 3.2 and later porsche :


http://www.sdsefi.com/air42.htm

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