First I'm 52, so I'm not in danger of dying of old age any time soon (knock on wood), but if I don't get it in gear and get this done I'll be too old to enjoy it. My 914 has already been off the road since 2009 and that is just too long. Life has gotten in the way these past 4 years and deciding to homeschool my two kids with me going part time work (so low funds), full time teacher (so no time) didn't help.
But I have been picking away at jobs and collecting parts and I'm pretty well ready to make the push to get it done. Also my boy has decided to go back to regular school (starts next week) and the girl is super easy to teach by herself.
I'm also pushing to get my almost completed '67 VW bug project done as well.
The bug engine is where this started, I a quest for power I began building a type 4 2.6L engine for my 914, then I got sexed up by the /6
I'll start a VW bug thread (later) to keep the 2 projects separate.
So what have I collected so far???
Well.... here's my build sheet...
Engine build sheet for 3.0 1974 914 six conversion.
Engine 3.0L, 70.4mm X 95mm, 10.5: 1 CR
Case, 1979, 3.0, serial # *6399XXX, 930/13, 930.101.104.4R, Supertec head studs
Crank, stock, std/std, polished and magnafluxed, converted to CW distributor drive gear
Rods, stock, rebuilt big and small end, new bushings, ARP bolts and nuts
Flywheel stock, with custom 914-901 adapter ring, CSP 228mm bus HD pressure plate
Full engine balance, pressure plate and adapter ring balanced separately
Main bearings, new glyco, DFL (Dry Film Lube) coated
#8 Main bearing, original Porsche, DFL coated
Rod bearings, new glyco, DFL coated
Intermediate shaft bearings, new Porsche, DFL coated
Gasket set, new nose and rear main seal, Supertec sealant kit
Pump, stock, cooler stock 911 modified to 914/6 spec
Pistons, Mahle, new, 3.0 custom RSR, DFL coated skirts, ceramic coated tops, Goetze rings
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering, stock gaskets, .025mm base gasket
Heads, 3.0 big port, minor port work, twin plug
Valves, stock size, exhaust new TRW sodium, intake new AE
Valve springs, Eibach 20444.212, retainers early stock, keepers stock modified
Ceramic chambers and exhaust ports
Cams, WEB-CAM, 120/104, set at 5.2mm/.10 lash, 964 cores modified to 901 spec
Towers, spray bars R&R, tapped and cleaned, rockers resurfaced and rebushed, RSR rocker shaft seals
Chains, new IWIS, new cam sprockets, keys and pins
Tensioners, hydraulic, no fail modification
906 style cylinder cooling deflectors
Cooler, stock, 3.0, modified for 914
Oil tank, DWD
Oil, Brad Penn break in, Delo400 15w40
Oil filter, Mahle OC54 (late 911)
Carburetors, Weber 40mm IDA, rebuilt, new carb kits, 34mm venturis, 155 main jets, F3 emulsion tubes, 180 air correction, 55 idle, Ported stock manifolds, custom phenolic spacers.
K&N filters and rain hats, Weber linkage
fuel pump
Distributor, PMS/Jarvis, CW, MSD internals, Jaguar XJS-12 cap (1989-1996), Jarvis rotor (RSR clone)
Plug wires custom labeled twin plug, Patrick Motorsports
Ignition, MSD 6AL, twin MSD high vibration coils, max RPM 6800
Spark plugs, NGK BPR5ES (BPR6ES also available for tuning)
Headers, 914, 1-1/2” MSDS, ceramic coated
Muffler/collector, stock banana
14point7 wideband O2 meter, custom wire harness
Transmission
914, 901, side shift rebuilt, using good used parts
Gasket set, Elring
Gearing, custom, A,F,O,X, HB
Stub axles 108mm 911/901
Axles, Sway-Away custom, part# 2420, directional L and R mark to the outside
CV, Lobro, G50 108mm modified to '1969-1974 spec grease seals
Rear hubs and stubs, 5-bolt Porsche, 1972 911, new bearings
Bilstein, shocks, 140lb springs
Front struts, 914/6, Bilstein struts, 5-bolt hubs,
Turbo tie rods, ball joints, and bearings all new German.
Free Motion needle bearings for the front, Original Customs
Sway bars, 22mm Tarret front and stock rear
Front calipers, Brembo aluminum, Alpha Romeo GTV-6/Milano (1984-86), rebuilt with 911M kits
Front pads, 1971-72 bus modified,
Front rotor stock vented 914/6, drilled
Rear calipers, stock 914/4 modified for vented rotor (spacers) rebuilt, stock rear pads
Rear rotor stock vented 911, diameter reduced 5mm (10mm total)
Fuchs 1975 “020” 5-bolt Porsche, refinished
Spare 944 turbo aluminum space saver
I still have to make/buy the oil lines and I have to mod the front cooler.
New project this year 2021 is a SDS fuel injection twin plug system using a modified 964 plenums. Write up coming soon.
First the foundation of my build, a 1979 3.0 case, this engine began it life in a 911 with an automatic. IMO automatics have the best low wear cases.
This has been cleaned about 3-4 times and it will be cleaned a few more times before I'm happy.
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A job I just tackled was loctite epoxy on all the case plugs.
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So similar, but the kids are grown and I have a few more years on you. I'm motivated!
One thing this build will have that I've never done before is full DFL (dry film lube) coating treatment on every thing I can coat, plus ceramic barrier coatings on the piston tops. these are both oven cured coatings.
I picked up a cheap mini touch up gun for spraying the coatings
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Big snow storm today kids want me to take them skiing, so back to this later....Powder calls my name
Who are you going to use for the piston crown thermo process?...never mind I just noticed it in your posting.
Good luck
Ps, I just called the # on your posting and it directed me to a Texas area code. Sorry to ask, but how did you come up with this solution vs sending it out to one of the big mfg to do this?
awesome. Thanks for sharing.
Do you have any more info on the flywheel setup? Im planning a -6 conversion and may use a later motor with the 901.
Mark.....look a chicken....
Oh, is it time for skiing?
How was skiing? Just got back from 5 days with the family myself. At 45 its another one of those "Do it while I still can" activities.
They still cant keep up
Getting my kit together for the balance work, a couple of questions ....
I stick with the 930 pulley right?
And the big fan pulley is for the 930 crank pulley I assume???
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Doesn't sound too bad Mark… Atleast you didn't have to weld the car back together before starting your work..
Soooooo Lock youself in the shop, turn on the heat…. turn on the radio… and start assembling the engine.. :-) I know its much more involved than assembling a T4 but its still just measure, place component, gasket/sealant, bolts and torque.
I'm taking my car apart again this winter for fun.. :-)
As for the ski hills. We went down to Holliday Valley in NY last weekend to try a new hill.. same drive for us as going up to Blue mountain and its a nice place… but I don't think they got the same snow as us because the hill was just a block of grooved ice.. oh well.. still getting lots of snow to play in this year. :-)
Gimme a shout if you want another pair of hands and I'll see bout coming up.
Mark, thanks for posting this thread, i will enjoy learning from it. ive been wanting to do an engine build at some point, and like others can relate to the difficulty of juggling life, family, job , job changes etc so my 914 had very little done last year + until the past month.
- also a homeschool family, at 48 , 4 kids-my son did it all the way, just turned 21, graduated in spring-had earned a full ride scholarship to USC(gamecocks) and graduated last spring with honors with an engineering degree- we bought the 914 and thought about doing a e-v conversion but found more fun in making it run!, so my 3 girls 17, 14, 9 are also home- one is easy, self learner, one not so much, the oldest now doing dual enrolement of high school/college at the tech school here- dont know it thats an option up there but here it is and is free!! except for books. So anyway just saying i can relate and wanted to get it to the driving point again too, and if we see some delays in postings we can see why, because the kids i can tell you grow up way too fast IMHO!! so enjoy it-
BTW that case looks very clean, who did that for you ?
- thinking about doing either 2056 or 2270 eventually but want to stay F.I., and my D-jet works great so i like to read up on all the variations like Zach's and now your thread.
Mark, keep up the good work...nice details as well .
ADHD, ADD, DWD, at least you're not down with OPP !
Marty
I have been waiting for this thread. Thanks for sharing all the details and info. Keep up good work. I´ll
So you finally decided to jump into the "arena" with the rest of us idiots. Aboot time.
mark,
I miss my 3.0 914. I did not go as far as you have with the engine. Still it ran down the Boxster S's at the track. I ran 205/50 15 tires and it could have used more tire.
Great Build
Flares.......
Squirrels...
Skiing
Oil cooler
Chicken
Beetle ITB custom flange at heads, direct bolt on.
Make doors on the inner fenders for simple easy access to both the plugs and the ITB's
Rich
Turbo, 400 hp or more on tap...
Shop talk forums.....
German look guys also...
Just doing what I can to help keep you awake at night.
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Checked to make sure it still worked.
I knocked it over and busted the dang handle
I took it off and I'm epoxying it.
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I had this old top hanging around. I bent up the back and side splash...no easy feat as it's 14 gauge and I have no brake.
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Then I cut in the control panel
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Ok, how did you bend that with no brake?
Not quite finished, I still have to mount the top to the wall. I'm also going to mount my grinder to the corner like so and tie it into the top and wall.
I'll take the controls back out and silicone the into the top so dirt cant get in. Then maybe I'll give a quick coat of rust paint and call it done.
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Impressive.
now you can do some home powder coating too. i can just fit a 15 inch wheel in my oven.
Did I also mention I'm training for my black belt as well?
Don't you need to drill a hole for the exhaust flue? Looks like it was under the back left burner
Fired it up today with my laser thermometer pointed at a scrap piston in the middle rack.
I need to set at 320F for 300F
I need to set at 370F for 350F
The table does have quite a hot spot on the chimney area, 190F (@300) and 225 (@350).
So I'm wondering what to do..... leave it, part block it, cut a hole in the top or redirect it so I don't have to cut the top.
leave it and mark it so you dont forget.
Make a sign for the door with a warning also....
nothing bad will happen if you are safe about it...its not like that counter will get damaged....though it may warp when its cold out there.....
Rich
Doh....squirrel!!!!
Gots to keep this on the front page!
Collecting more parts, thanks for passing on these Brant, and I love how Rick handled this :
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=229886&st=0&gopid=1995189&#entry1995189
I'm getting my "poop in a group" to take the assembly to the balancer.
Someone was asking about my flywheel so here's the pic's
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The ring was made from a type 1 VW beetle flywheel.
The flywheel was lightened a bit, the holes were really just added for drainage/dust. Stock /4 flys have 6 holes, so I went a bit overboard, it "may" have taken a hair of weight off. Before I drilled the holes the ring and flywheel weighed just under 14lbs, about the same as a stock /4.
The pressure plate is a CSP HD performance type 4 vanagon 228mm.
No I will not make you one, not worth it to me to sell these. the VW and Porsche flywheels are hard as hell, this was tough going.
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Believe it or not this was made on my 1942 Montgomery Ward (Logan) lathe.
It's a 10"X 36" that's been modified with 2-1/2" risers, basically turning it into a 13" swing.
A PO did the mod and re-geared it, the feed works like normal.
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WOW a 300+ hp 3.0 rsr engine????
Can you weigh the flywheel w/ adapter as well as the whole flywheel clutch package? I'm interested in comparing a few as time goes on.
Nice Lathe ! When did you get that !
once you start baking powder , You will wish the chimney vented outside...
Decided to make my adapter ring holes a little bigger.
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Also decided that I should also mark the flywheel so I can see the timing/valve adjusting marks through the bottom peephole. I had to put the marks 180 out so the read from the bottom, it was easiest just to put the crank in the case for marking.
I started doing the lines on the lathe, but they were to fine so I took a file to them.
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Rebult rods with ARP bolts
Aaaahhhhh....reaming and honing....
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Can I just send my engine parts to you and you can put them together?
Last thing for today is I swapped out the dizzy drive gear.
A 3.0 has a counter clockwise dizzy, I changed the gear so that I can use a clockwise dizzy.
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Cool! My aluminum flywheel is about 3 lbs and my adapter ring is about 7. So looks like overall I'm about 6 lbs lighter than you for a total around 19lbs.
I'll have a stock 914/6 flywheel to measure soon.
Why reverse the gear on the dizzy?
WOW! That is gonna be one nice engine Mark.
Thanks
Anyone doing full rebuild on a SC engine and who are not using CIS might want to consider changing the CCW dizzy gear for a CW gear, then they can use an earlier dizzy.
BTW the CW gear is a standard VW gear from a type 1 or type 4, I took a gear from a 2.7 and it had a VW stamp on it.
Got to keep thinks rolling
Next job is the cam towers, I'm going to pull the spray bars and clean them proper.
The /6 towers are always a bit dirty.
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First I pull the factory plugs and then the spray bars (tubes) come out fairly easy. Not shown is the rear line plug actually has a point on it and this is what holds the spray bar in place, not the plugs.
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The cam towers are now a little cleaner, this cleaning took quite a while. I have see if I can find a small caliber gun brush tomorrow for the spray bars.
Towers to be continued...same bat time.... same bat channel...
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mark, i have been using aircraft stripper on engine cases and gearbox cases. mag and aluminum. works fast and does not harm or etch the metal. little expensive. but its just so easy its worth it. just brush it on with a cheap chip brush.
Been feeling like shit...figured as much but it looks like I'm passing a kidney stone...oh well, I'll keep trying to carry on with the projects.
Just a tad bitchy....
Take a break. Drive to Brampton.
dp
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Working a bit slow today, but stiff upper lip got some towers to get done.
Need to tap for the new plugs, not much different than doing a type 4 galley plug.
You have to be careful not to distort the bearing bore, pipe plugs use a taper and you don't want the plug (or tap) to be jammed in too tight. You have to tap it deep enough so the plugs sits slightly below the surface. Do not use Teflon as it slippy enough to allow you to over torque the plug. Use something like loctite instead.
I'm using a 1/8" NPT steel pipe plugs with a hex head.
The plug and the fresh tapped hole.
This is how it must sit just below the surface when done.
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While doing this it's a good time to chase the other threads.
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Now....you're asking yourself why the hell is he doing all this work? Just to make the cam towers look pretty??
This is why, look at these burrs in the holes of the spray bars! Maybe they won't come off...maybe they will...do you feel lucky?
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So I've been using Dr Evils favorite cleaner LA Awesome and I found this little brushes at the dollar store. They worked great.
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Guess what I'm making
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First hint it's not finished...damn belt for my lathe broke
Yep it's leather.
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HE for /6s?
next..
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It's a jig for...???
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Close.....custom phenolic spacers
The jig will be for finish cutting them on my router table.
Center hole will be bigger, once I get a new belt on the lathe.
Nice thread! A carbed 3.0 is an awesome engine for a 914...
Have you given any thought to what you are using to seal the case? I used triple bond 1184, great stuff and it seals very well. Have a very good understanding as to how thick you want it and where you want it before starting.
Also make sure your case has the chamfers on both sides for the thru bolt o-rings and dont use rtv on the o-rings like wayne calls out!!! I had to pull my case back apart from doing that one...
good luck...
Curil is a pita, like dealing with tree sap (gloves work well). But I had no leaks when I used it to replace my cams about 5 years ago.
This was a slow go making the jigs but here is my first phenolic spacer.
5 more to go, but I'm also going to make 6 aluminum spacers to back up the injector notch so the phenolic spacer is fully supported.
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Finished spacer
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Soaring through this job now, the chips are a flying
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1979 3.0 big port head
Note the injector notch.
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Phenolic spacer
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Aluminum spacer
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So why am I doing this?
When using the stock weber manifold the injector notch is way to close to the edge of the manifold to ever seal proper.
Also using just a phenolic spacer alone will also cause issues later on, as it will eventually leak.
The phenolic spacer will also help avoid carb heat soak issues.
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The final product
Edit: note I have the spacers on ass backwards, the aluminum spacer goes on the bottom to cover the FI notch, then the phenolic spacer and manifold.
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why not just fill the notch with weld ?
So change gears a bit, not going to get much done today, family day weekend so I have to spend some time with the kiddies.
My hell holes and tank install. I know my holes are nice, but they still have a hair of surface rust, so I'm wondering what to do. The back pad area has no rust, that's just glue. I don't want to sand blast, that shit gets everywhere.
Thinking wire wheel and por-15 or something like that?
Guess I should also cut off the /4 mounts?
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I took a wire wheel on a grinder to take the paint off my entire car.. Well… the parts I didn't just cut out. :-) With YOUR hell hole you might just get away with a rag with soap and water to clean that up ! :-)
Cleaned it up a bit...now I am just teasing Mike
Such a small area I'll do it right. I'll go at this with a wire wheel on a die grinder and epoxy it.
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Back to the intake for a second.
I ported and epoxy painted these a while back, just soaked these in gas to make sure they are fuel proof.....looking good!
You can also see how little meat is left on the head side of the manifold after porting for the big port heads, All the more reason to back them up with those aluminum spacers.
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Mark,
I have a connector I bought from Perry for mine. Sold the car before I completed the Relay board removal. I still have it if you are interested.
Thanks
Van
Take the free one, they are not cheap!
"The front molded piece with the actual 14 holes thru it is part number 911.612.115.02 and the back half of the connector shell is 911.612.113.05. The same connector is available used from a number of sources. A 1971 914 used this connector on the steering column connector and many models of 911's used them on the engine bay relay panel."
Patrick sells them for 44$
Dropped the crank assembly off at the balance shop today.
More parts arrived today
Full motion front bearings (Original Customs) from Rick.
I don't see any instructions, I'll have to email McMark and see if there's a "how to" thread.
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Mmmmm time to bake some bearings.
The cam bearings look rough but they are smooth.
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Now the totally scary part, sand blasting my bearings.
You do this with not just any sand, 120grit silicone oxide
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You have to blast at low pressure I used 20psi, normally I blast at as high as I can get (120psi)
You just want to etch the surface, takes just a few swipes.
Still scary as shit....
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Well this is what the air dried DFL coated bearings look like....let them flash dry for 15 minutes and then it's off to the oven for 1 hour at 350F.
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BTW I'm baking right now...another 30 minutes, but so far it looks good...
Where is the sweating smilely
Ding!!!!
Well....they look smooth again
too hot to measure yet.
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They look good and the baked surface is stable, the thrusts have been polished with a soft cloth and only a trace of the DFL came off.
I can't measure a dimension change, instructions say .0002
This site is acting weird for me.
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What the fuch???pic's are moving from post to post???/
Anyways tomorrows project, new rod bearings
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Hey. Mark,
Can you rebuild a Toyota motor?
Of course I was talking about the Kitty TuRD.
Any other Toyota I had recently won acquired would be a long way from needing a refresh.
Kitty is pushing 350k. No sign of issue now, but down the road...
The TuRD engine will last the life of the truck, but if it was to crap out yes I could rebuild it.
But it would be way cheaper to get a Japanese market engine. They sell your engine, low miles, complete for something like $1500 in Toronto.
Ok, geting my process down, this is a complete 911 engine bearing job ready for the oven.
It all about prep.
I'm thinking of offering this as a service, if I do I need a couple of better low pressure regulators.
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Just curious.
Why are you doing this to the bearings?
Mine have lasted 250k already in my 911, and as we have seen above, the TuRd has lasted even longer.
Pistons i understand.
What is the benefit to doing this to the bearings?
Maybe a link or search term to read up would help.....
So you have looked at your bearings?
You haven't torn down the number of engines I have, the wear is often quite a bit more than you realize.
My engine had less miles on it than yours and it was out of an automatic, all the bearings (except#8) were shot and the nikasil cylinders were totally out of spec. Yet it was still a running engine.
Every bit helps even if this coating just lasts for break-in it's does its job. It also adds up to .0005 and seeing as this is a used standard crank (like most at the lower end of the spec) that may be a good thing. After baking the coating is quite durable, brake cleaner, lacquer thinner and acetone don't seem to harm it. Took a bit of effort to sand through it.
The piston skirts, well Mahle has been graphite coating them for years.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant
The ceramic coatings I'll be doing are to help with heat disbursement much like header coatings, I think most would agree any help in this area is a good thing.
Also a buddy wanted to try this stuff so all the material is free to me to try.
I agree with both sides of that argument.
It's not a bad thing to do (assuming it doesn't flake or gall, etc) and Mark's reasoning is totally legit. But I wouldn't pull apart an engine to install it.
But since it was free, I would have done the same thing. Experimentation time!
I understand most flaking issues have been due to poor preparation or applying to much product. This process is all about prep and the labor is all in the prep. The spraying and baking is the easy part.
On the other side of the coin I have torn down engines and been very tempted to reuse bearings. In fact I have done this on my own engines many times with good results. But these bearings look ugly, not that they are out of spec, they are just stained. Coating these may offer a cost effective option.
Look at these bearings before and after, they are within spec.
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How about these ones? These are 3.2-3.6 bearings, worth $160 new.
I've reprocessed the far right one, it is the worst one of the set. You could barely catch a a fingernail on the scratch in the center. The scratches on the other bearings you can't catch a finger nail on.
BTW these have about 30,000 miles on them.
If someone want's me to finish up the rest of the set I'd give a good deal on these.
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Waiting to get my stuff back from the balance shop so I thought I'd mess with the wiring today.
I haven't got a connector and being a cheap ass I can't see paying $50 for just a connector, let alone seeing as I'm in Canada, the dollar, duty, taxes and and stupid expensive shipping the freaking thing might cost me almost $100 in my hand.
Fuch that
So what to do ...... don't want a hack
I have spares, and I have a relay board main harness connector (and an engine harness) so I took it apart and figured I had to flip and reverse the wires to line up.
That wasn't to bad...but I end up with 2 female connectors damn!
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Didn't really want to make 14 little pins.
So I have a whole pail of 911 relays and they have pins that fit, so I broke them out and found the other end is a bit too big.
That's better than being too small
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So I turned them down on my mini model lathe. I left a bit of a press fit.
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I think this is going to work out just fine.
I wonder if a drop of loctite on the engine harness end would be ok on the pins?
I could snap it up now, but I'll wait till I get some longer red primary wire, these ones are cut a bit short. Why have a splice when you don't have to have one.
Note the top pic only shows one pin installed, almost every hole has a pin pressed in the final male connector.
Also I screwed up the first wiring attempt, as everything is backwards on the engine harness male connector, because that connector is flipped 180* from normal.
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I used this diagram to figure this out...I wonder if I need both reds?
Min'es a carbed 3.0 so I just worked from the left side of the diagram.
Not sure about the 2 reds, I can take a look at mine tonight.
Also keep in mind I think the 3.2 has an internal regulated alternator, where as I think the 3.0 does not?
I don't think I have an internal regulator, I know for sure I'm using a fan assembly from a 2.7, I also have one from a 2.0 but that's a lower amp alternator.
I'll have to figure out were to mount a regulator.
I also have to figure out the rear window defogger, but I think it just needs a fused power and a ground.
This evening I decided to look at my exhaust ports, a few studs needed some work.
This one is snapped off so I made a drill bushing and went to work on it. I made my own drill bushing but you can buy these. It's very important that you drill down the center of the stud.
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Then you have to dig out any left over bits of the steel stud. This is real important, if you don't your repair is going to suck balls.
Drilling centered is the key, if you did that right digging these last bits of steel out should be fairly easy.
Just a little patience...
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OK that's done time for the repair...or I should say lets Time-sert the repair
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Now you have to drill the hole to size, you use the drill bit included in the kit with just a hand tap handle. the Aluminium is soft so this goes easy.
I use a guide to keep the drill bit square with the port. You can buy this guide for $40..but you know...I'm cheap...so I made this one myself.
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Then you use this tool to cut a countersunk relief for the head of the timesert. Again important that you bottom this tool out so that the relief cut is deep enough
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Then you tap the hole, try to keep the tap as square as possible.
The finished hole ready for the insert.
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Thread the oiled insert in as far as you can by hand.
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Then use the driver to drive in the insert.
Really important that the driver is well oiled. This is because the driver expands the insert as it drives it home.
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The finished repair, better than new. The other hole the threads are fine so I'll leave it alone.
That's one exhaust port, I have a few more of these to do tomorrow.
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Great work!
My dad and I had to do about 10 of those on my first car. (1985 Saab 900 Turbo) I got REAL good at those after the 3rd or 4th one.
DING!
Balancing shop phoned!
Road trip!
I used a Timesert to fix a bolt that pulled the threads out of the block in my Subaru. Worked very well. Fairly easy to do and should prevent the steel-aluminum issue in the future (at least for that bolt).
/thread hi-jack
i really like timeserts. i have most of the popular metric size kits. i dont know how i got along with out them.
Did you buy that tap handle?
My son made me mine.....
I do make a lot of my own tools, but I didn't make that one.
You should see the tool I'm making right now...oh wait... if you follow this thread you will be seeing it soon
I had to Time-Sert a few of my exhaust studs now for another stud repair, this time the case. The one bell-housing mounting stud hole had a very sketchy helicoil repair. They didn't even drill the stud right out, plus it was only helicoiled in about a half inch. This would possibly be "OK" as a dirty repair, but I have to hang this half out on the engine stand for the build....not cool.
So I didn't want to buy another timesert kit, a regular Time-Sert wouldn't work anyways because it's been helicoiled, it would need a Big-Sert.
But I do have lots of 10mm VW case savers. These ones have an odd coarse standard outer thread and I didn't have a tap, so I got one from China, $10 delivered to my door.
This doesn't show the 3/4 hour spent yanking the helicoil, drilling out the rest of the old stud and tapping for the case saver but you get the idea....
Note the homemade insert driver.
I think this is a good solution and I'm confident hanging my build from it.
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Next job, a few of my piston oil squirters weren't up to snuff. Most of the time these are stuck shut and a bit of Seafoam or MEK will free them up. These were odd in that they wouldn't close.
The little freaking things cost $40 each.
I read some how to's and they dremal the peens, then drill and tap the squirter. Seemed like a waste of time.
A drill bit (A 1/4" is the same OD as the squirter) took off the peens then a bit smaller bit to open up the squirter. A couple came right out with the bit, one I jammed in a coarse screw and yanked out with a slide hammer. They all came out real easy.
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Dr Evil time serted a speedo angle drive hold down at the clinic. I'm sold!
This is the busness end of the squirter, it's just a ball bearing on a spring.
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If you have the old peening removed correctly the new squirter will just pop in. I used a bit of Loctite on the OD of the squirter only, you don't want to go crazy here because loctite in the squirter would likely be bad.
Then you have to peen the squirter in, I picked 3 new spots.
Another homemade tool. We need a bench grinder smiliey
And there you have it, relatively an easy job.
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Just flying today....not bad from a guy on perc's for kidney stones who also nursing a sore shoulder from wiping out on the ski hill on Sunday...
Time to put my cam tower spray bars back in, if you go back in the thread you will see me taking them out for cleaning.
Many peep's don't recommend bead blasting the towers but I did. I then blew out and power washed them 3 separate times just to be sure no beads were left behind.
As you re-install the bars you have to be super careful of the orientation. Both bars are the same but one goes in backwards of the other. When you get it to the proper spot you use a screwdriver to center the hole and the rear bolt has a tit on it the goes into the hole on the bar. Then a bit of Loctite on the 1/8" NPT plugs and your done. Very important that you tapped the plugs deep enough, you don't want to over tighten the plugs.
Since I'm not ready for these yet I bagged them to keep them clean.
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First pic is the case half clean with no studs.
2nd I put a drop of loctite in each stud hole.
3rd all the case studs re-installed.
My case is now clean and bagged ready for assembly
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Ooooooppppps!!!!! Don't forget the main secret stud! that would really fuch my day if I forgot that one.
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Not part of the build... but so slick I had to show this...
BTW These are not my heads, not my twin plug work, I'd never break the fins like this, to me breaking the fins is shoddy machine prep, but it's what the customer had. I just added this to show a Timesert plug hole repair.
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mark, is that a "big" sert? 14mm?
Starting to get my ducks in a row for the bottom end build
Just a few last bits, first the oil pump, one thing I didn't like about Wayne's book was the lack of information on certain parts like the oil pump. His book the pump is voodoo and shouldn't be taken apart...I call BS on that.
I took it apart and with a straight edge found it to have .008 clearance on each side...just a bit sloppy IMHO
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It also had a bunch of minor scratches, so first order of business was to treat the interior with DFL (dry film lube) coating.
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Then using sandpaper and a flat glass I faced the surface till I had .002 -.003 clearance I only took about .012 off the total length of the pump.
I also honed any rough edges on the gears before reassembly.
Then I put it back together, tightening each nut a half turn at a time and constantly making sure it spun freely. Once done I primed it with a bit of assembly grease.
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Next I cleaned out the intermediate shaft.
It has a circlip and little plug in the end. It came out easy and then I just used a bottle brush to clean it out. You wouldn't the sludge that came out of this, if you ever rebuild a /6 you have to do this job.
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Didn't get a whole lot done today, but I did make some tools.
First up is P221 and P222, these will hold the rods and chain up as I place the engine case halves together.
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Next, I made this tool for putting the Orings on the case half main studs. These Orings can get cut on the threads so this will hopefully eliminate damage. I made this so I can load all the Orings on at once, so I don't have to reload it each time.
Note that I'll be using the green viton stud Orings from Supertec, these are suppose to be better than the purple ones that come in a standard gasket kit.
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This one I don't have finished yet, I still have make the plundger.
It going to be a piston circlip injector.
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My OCD tendancies love your attention to detail!
Shit about to get real
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The tool du jour
Bolt stretch gauge for the ARP bolts. Homemade of course....
With ARP bolts you can torque them, but the recommended (for 3.0 rod bolts) is measuring for .010" of stretch.
Note I checked them with a torque wrench, the ARP recommended torque was .010 stretch.
So i wouldn't be afraid to use the torque if one didn't have a strech gauge.
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Had to do a quick check to make sure there was no issues with my crank gear change, I'm going from a CCW dizzy to a CW dizzy and I'm using a 2.7 dizzy crank drive gear.
I've be told a 3.2 gear is slightly a different size and can cause issue, but this one seems to work just fine, not to tight or too sloppy.
Altough I took this gear off my 2.7 crank it is the same gear as on a type1 or type four engine. It even had a VW logo stamped on it.
BTW this was before I totally cleaned the crank and for this check I didn't care about the orientation of the #8 bearing..
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Major progress today...I'm beat.... need
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Sorry I couldn't do a better set of pic's on the build up, but once you lay down the sealants you only have maximum of 45 minutes till the case has to be torqued.
But....
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Looking Good! That's a good feeling to get the case closed up.
Another thing, I noticed your running a single pulley, is it an older 126mm? I just put one on my car (vs the stock SC 136mm) and it slowed the fan down some it runs a little hotter at idle now, I'm going to go back to the larger pulley.
Time to start thinking about the next phase
Pistons, new Mahle, 3.0 RSR, Goetze rings
Cylinders, stock 3.0 nickasil, replated Milenium/LN engineering.
I'll still have to DFL coat the skirts, and ceramic coated tops,
I'm not sure where these originally came from, guessing they may be leftovers from a racing program. They also might be 2nd's as they were a hair under size for stock 3.0 jugs. That issue was fixed in the replating spec.
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So between kidney stones, dealing with my kids problems, my mom taking a tumble and the bad boy below I've fallen behind on not just the 914 but all my project.
Hopefully I can catch up but I won't have a bunch of time to on this site this summer.
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I did get some more headwork done.
Took me a while to get my head surfacing jig sorted but in the end it worked real good.
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No pic's but I also have the rear 5-bolt hubs, stubs and new bearing done.
Nice!
What are you doing for intake port sizes? Are you going to run carbs?
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Stock '79 big port heads and I cleaned up the the guide bosses and polished the ports, new valves (sodium exhausts) Eibach springs and ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports. Oh yeh... and machined for twinplug.
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Good choice on the heads. That's what I have in my 3.2 short stroke!
A '67 on a late pan...the stance is really nice. You finished it?
Too much life in the way so progress is slower than hoped, but progress never the less.
Heads done, mild P&P, new valves, guides including a trimming the tops and Eibach springs.
P206 spring setting tool (far left) made life easy.
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Getting my poop in a group for the big job.
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Checking ring gaps, the factory Malhes run tight tolerances .006 to .012 ring gaps Mine are damn close to the .006 mark...just a hair over.
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Last time (knock on wood) I see these works of art
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Supertec head studs all ready.
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Putting the Jugs and Slugs on the shortblock
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Unfortunetly due to being in a rush to zip things up before sealants set I didn't get any pics. I chose to do the rockers first and drop the whole side on as one head. It can be done either way, this is how the factory did it. I've done a few 911 engines and I say the rocker first method is the easiest.
One trick I figured out is it's hard to drop the headstud nuts and washers on, I found if you put them on a screwdriver they dropped/guided on perfectly.
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Starting to look like an engine
I'll see if I can find the time to do some cam work this weekend.
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One hitch I did run into is my cylinder air deflectors. I though they were all the same so I had a prepped set of 2.7 deflectors.....Wrong!
3.0-3.2 only...fuck!!!!
Didn't want to wait so I made (copied) these cool 906 style deflectors out of Stainless steel.
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I sure would appreciate you showing how you are going to go about your deck height and piston to valve clearance checks. I am doing a similar rebuild with JE pistons, '72E cylinders and '75 heads but still using the original case but with squirters, etc.
I'd have to add it up* but I'm guessing a bit over $10K in parts so far and I still have to do the oil lines and cooler.
Since I took my time collecting (4 years) I was able to wait for "deals"
Examples
This piston and cylinder kit, I paid $1500 (IIRC) for the new pistons but the pistons were slightly under stock size spec, but since I was re-plating the nikasil (LN) I just had it done to the spec. The result is a new P&C set Mahle RS that is worth $5000 for half price.
Tank I waited and got the complete new DWD tank, fill neck and console for $800
I traded parts for the carbs, dizzy, Fuchs, axle parts, MSD, headers...etc.
I also bought a 2.7 core with fan/alt and a bunch of new parts for $1200 and I'm not counting that even though I am using the fan/alt and half the new parts it came with.
It has a good std. crank plus parts and I've machined the heads, so I think I could still easily get my money back, but it's my backup engine till I'm happy with this one.
Add labour (note I did everything, including all machining except the for balance job) and I'd guess north of 160-200 hours. So if you were paying "full pop" I'd say this is about $30K job. Maybe more.
(* I don't really want to tally up the bill...due to the fact I might shit myself)
One of my "deals" was a new set of WEB camshafts off of a member, but I didn't understand when he said they were built on 993 (964) cam cores but they do work on 4 bearing towers.
He did include the 993 sprockets, but what I didn't realize was that to use them the adjusting tools were $1000
Crap....
So I did some research and asked for a solution on the bird and found the hot ticket for the 993 was to weld up the cam nose, cut in a woodruff keyway in and convert it all back to the early 911 timing sprockets.
So I had my crank grinder submerge weld and refinish the ends, I also had him cut off the 993 power steering drive. That cost me $100
(BTW the weld porosity does not matter, it's structural but it's not a bearing surface.)
But I still needed to cut a woodruff keyway, no problem just get a $25 cutter and be done right?
Wrong!
Freaking 911 cams are so freaking hard I'd need an expensive carbide cutter.
More research...on youtube guys were cutting keyways with dremels...crude, but the key was just for adjusting the cam timing, it's the bolt (or big nut), that's what holds the sprocket in place, not the key. Still I didn't want a hack.
A bit of thinking and fabricating and here is my solution.
My air die grinder in a holder that I built out of a piece of pipe and a Teig lathe slide I had. I got a bunch of dremel stones off the evilbay ($30 for 8, I used 2 of them) and resized them using a diamond dresser chucked in my lathe. Although locating the keyway isn't very critical, it was easy as the cam has a locating surface.
End result I didn't save much as I hoped, but if you don't count my labour I still did save a bit. Oh well...you win some and you lose some.
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Where there's a will, there's a way. ?
The WEB-CAMs built on 993 cores 2nd pic shows the power steering drive that was cut off. You have to cut it off if you want to run a stock cooler.
They are WEB grind 120/104 which is comparable to a MOD-S or IIRC a GE60 cam.
Cam card says to set cam timing at 5.2mm. This is a carb or mechanicail FI cam, the bigger the cam timing number the hotter the cam. In the old days this would be called a "hot street, club racing or half-race cam".
I'm hoping for hot street but driveable, I don't spend much time in traffic.
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Installing the cams, note new chains and sprocket
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Setting the cam sprocket alignment with a stromski straightedge and she's ready for the next step...cam timing.
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On a none engine related issue I painted up my fuchs with the RSR rustolium silver...right now I'm torn between painting the background and leaving them as is.
what do you like?
That's a polished lip under the tape and oh yeh... I installed my rear hubs.
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Looks good Mark!
Making great progress Mark!
I always wondered how long those plastic chain guides last, but I guess there is no real contact with them and they are only there so they don't move when the car goes over bumps?
Been a while since I have posted, but I have been making progress. It just in to test fit a few things and to tack in the mount.
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Quicky cradle I made for my scissor table before I took it off the stand, works real good and keeps the engine stable
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I also have mounted the McMarks Free-Motion front A arm kit that I bought off Rick.
Here you see the fresh bead blasted arms and the bearing sleeves. the sleeves are a barely a slip fit, I measured .003". I used loctite 620 to fix them in place, this loctite is actually made for this purpose.
Not shown is I then PPG epoxy primed the arms and parts and then finished with Nason black. It spray paint but I just used a brush, I don't really care if there are brush marks.
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I never like the seals on this kit, they are just O-rings, so I'm doing some experimenting.
One is this I use the thick 911 oil tube O-ring and a slightly modified crank timing gear snap ring. Bit tight as the o-ring is a bit small on the ID, but I think it will work good.
2nd I put a beetle upper front torsion arm seal in backwards, used a bead of RTV and it closed up the gap on the bear bering very nicely.
3rd I used the heat tube grommets from a beetle to seal the thrust bearings.
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The finished A arm rebuild, now it's time for struts.
You can also see I have added a stock sway bar, my base 1.8 didn't have swaybars. I think the sway bar drop links are too long (WTF?), so I'll wait till I get the ride height sorted before I shorten them up a bit.
Note I've since replaced the stock bar with a Tarett 22mm hollow bar.
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Struts are ready to go but I have to wait till I have wheels, got to keep it rolling.
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Lookin good Mark... We're going to have to get a Orange 914 Ontario meet going this spring/summer... :-)
Trying to get my ass back in gear and get this done for June. Want to spend at least a couple hours per day on it or the next 6 weeks, If I can it's a doable goal.
The bracket I made to mount the MSD in the stock location.
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My starter, Ford solenoid and backup light switch wiring.
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My trans mount cable/carb linkage, bit of overkill but it works good.
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Cleaned up my wiring a bit and put a sheath on the quick connect/relay board delete I had already made.
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Just have to figure out the other side for regulator, battery and the MSD hook-up. I don't want to cut the MSD wires so I'll loop them and tuck them away hidden behind the battery.
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Mark, where did you get the sheath for the harness? Everything is looking great on your build.
Making good progress Mark. Looks great.
John
Reason for not being around here much is I'm making a push to get my conversion done and on the road. So you could say I'm around in 914 spirit.
I found a great big hole in my firewall.
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I know many don't like the stock firewall pad, heavy known to trap water, but there's zero rust behind mine, that just glue.
Mostly using it because I'm starting to get sensitive to the loud and a weber /6 is going to need all the help it can get in the noise deadening dept.
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I made a mount for my MSD out of an old butchered 914/6 repro CDI mount. It's almost out of sight and it needs no extension for the trigger connection.
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bit of paint magic...
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Ugly struts
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pretty parts
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911 T struts and hubs, Alfa Brembo calipers, new rotors and bearings, tie rod kit, new ball joints, Bilstien strut inserts I had.
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914 V-calipers on the rear.
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dead tired.....
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That's a big ass hole!
Looking good! You will need to drive it one time without the cover on there. It sounds amazing.
Wow that's not an opening ,its room for other stuff ,never seen one that big.
MSD not sure was going there but researched and found a reasonable high failure rate,moved to ebay and found lots of units for sale requiring a rebuild ....not sure really reckon they are .
Good luck on the build nice to see you are moving on, .
Mark, the only pill I found laying around for the MSD was 7000 rpm.
Finished hole.
Well almost... I notice I still have to glue the bottom little strip in.
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Tried my first aluminum TIG welding project it a breather/puke can.
What can I say, likely not even close to Ben's standards, Welding Al is not as easy as it looks, but after watching a bunch of YT vids I was able to get some semi-decent welds. A lot of technique, like driving a car the has two clutches, two sticks and you have to adjust the timing manually all at the same time.
Likely didn't help that I was using some very old left outside Al sheet I found.
That said I think it's passable. I made the can so it clears the lid springs and the lid release tube. It's fully baffled and has a sump that holds over a quart of scummy oil. the finished install will have a petcock valve and a tube running down so I can drain it right into my oil pan. bottom has a hole cut to 1/8" NPT.
Wonder if anyone would be interested in this as a product
I do have all the patterns and bending forms.
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The puke was practice for the number one thing holding up my project...the 914-6 cooler.
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Likely the last time I see my engine this clean.
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Why I made such a big hole.
As an experiment I left off my front tin to see if it can be R&R in car, yes it can but the screws are a real PITA to put in.
The upside is I can easily do the timing, R&R the fan/alt and even the front chain covers in car.
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I made up these puppies to attach my heat hoses. No heat for now so Ill just cap the bottoms off, but if I add heater boxes I'm ready to go.
BTW except for my front shroud tin I made the surround tin.
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Looks good..
Re aluminum difficulties magnesium is about 5 times as difficult becuase it is so dirty.. Used aluminum is also not easy.. Make sure it is clean and it will aid in quality.
Making some major progress.
I have the weekend to try and get poop done, then I have to work on other peeps stuff to pay the bills.
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Yes, looking good Mark.
Yea daddy!! Very nice!! Cool huh??
Good stuff...makes you want to make a lexan 'firewall' to look at the glorious engine and distributor all the time.
Sounds awesome! Good job Mark! I was hoping to hear /watch it while you drive, but oh well your hands were full. Thanks for a little morning motivation. I'm going to pick up my six from Chris's house today!
Nothing like the sound of the P-6.
Mark-
Great success, sounds terrific.
I admire your mechanical skills and patience.
We want a test drive video
Oscar
Looks and sounds great!
I try to remember to take a vid driving, actually I did take some driving footage, but I guess my old cheap camera and small SD card only has a minute of storage.
Well it looks like I'm going deeper into the rabbit hole...I just acquired a fuel injection system.
SDS EM5-6F ECU
programmer
mixture knob
2 bar map sensor (will need a one bar MAP for my NA engine)
57 cc Siemens injectors/harness
crank pulley set up for signal, (IIRC it's a GoingSuperFast pulley).
hall sensor
12 custom length Beru wires
distributor block off plug
IAV (not sure if this is for fast idle or AC)
wire harness c/w relays (fuel pump, plus two more programmable relays)
1 wire temp sensor
intake air temp sensor
coil packs (X2 for twin plug)
installation/tuning manual
But what I do need is a intake, so it either ITB's, a 3.2 plenum or something custom made.
I'm likely going to do a plenum system, so I don't have to run in AlphaN. Plus I'm getting old, looking to quiet down the intake a little.
With all the skills I've seen displayed, I'm surprised you haven't made your own ITB's. Some stellar work dude.
3.2 intakes are cool but the used prices I’ve seen are crazy high.
Was entertaining something like that on the 2.7 but will stick with carbs until there’s a lower priced EFI solution (jealous of the American V8 systems)
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