Is it better to put bondo over bare metal or prime first.
I'm not a body work guru, but plan to be one soon
i believe you rough up the bare metal surface, so it has something to stick to
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface.
Im not a body man either but I play one on TV.
QUOTE (skline @ Jan 9 2005, 12:37 PM) |
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface. Im not a body man either but I play one on TV. |
Clean bare metal, 60 grit or some such, then slather it on.
Take it it down first with a "chesse grater" tool, Stanley Sure Form will do. Then you get to do lots of block sanding. And then you block sand. Did I mention block sanding? Prime with a rattle can, then block sand.
Thanks......I can do that.
I'm gonna go out to the shop & run amok
I know you need to Bondo the Sail Panels but what u doing with the new Fenders ?
You going to Bondo the New Fenders or leave them as Screw on ??
I'm just gonna rivet them on....ala Randal's car.....tho they need some filling as their finish ain't the best.
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......
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mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM) | ||
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Aaron Cox Posted on Jan 9 2005, 05:20 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM) QUOTE mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File we call those "longboards" |
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:24 PM) | ||
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Those are called boobs....
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 06:07 PM) |
then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick
It's hard to keep a dead man down, eh Miles?
that's not Miles...that's Jerry
QUOTE |
GWN7 Posted on Jan 9 2005, 06:04 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick |
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 03:07 PM) |
....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
There was a writeup on this recently. As I recall, the gist of the argument was to primer, bondo, and primer again. This allowed the bondo to bond better and caused less shrinking or cracking later. I believe the topic was in regards to a fully stripped shell that needs to be primered fully. Bodywork would be done over the primer, then a final primer coat would go on before the top coats.
On American Hot Rod, the guys at Boyd's applied bondo to the whole car for blocking AFTER the metal primer. I know what you're thinking, but Charlie Hutton was one of few on the show with legitimate skills. Wonder what Bluebear's up to these days? Like we care!
Andy
Original thought: wonder what the directions on the can say?
Too late, the job is done.......good info, tho
The bondo I scrapped off was over bare metal
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