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Posted by: CptTripps Mar 22 2014, 10:14 PM

I'm quite certain this is covered elsewhere, but I've been racking my fingers trying to figure out what to search, and coming up dry.

I've got the Tangerine Racing 911 e-brake kit, and the instructions are almost worthless.

Can someone tell me what I need to shave off of the 914 rear hub to get the 911 e-brake to fit? There's also a part I'm supposed to weld onto it, and I have no idea where that goes either. It also appears the holes don't quite line up.

Do I have the wrong stuff?

Pics below. I'm stuck.


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Posted by: SirAndy Mar 22 2014, 10:35 PM

If the holes don't lines up you got the wrong 911 cover plates. They come in different sizes.

As for the shaving, look at the 4 holes in your trailing arm, you see how the boss they sit in gets wider on the bottom after the sharp edge in your 2nd pic?
You need to shave that edge down further.

Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 22 2014, 10:43 PM

yup , you have 74 or later..big bearing PB hats

Posted by: CptTripps Mar 22 2014, 10:48 PM

Well...shit.

So I need to locate everything, or just the hats?

I knew I should have fit them before I powder-coated the hats.

So I need 197? Hats?

Posted by: sixnotfour Mar 22 2014, 10:52 PM

yup

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 23 2014, 09:11 AM

Search...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=4909

Posted by: iamchappy Mar 23 2014, 10:20 AM

If my memory is correct been awhile since i did this, and feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe what is shown will work as a parking brake but not as an emergency brake I think the correct way of doing this is to have the 40mm tang welded to the trailing arm like they are on the 911's not the cover... Even if you forget to release the Ebrake and start to drive off the torque may break your Ebrake as the rotational force is more than the tang on the cover can withstand...

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 23 2014, 12:27 PM

See his first picture in the thread though. Chris's kit includes that.

The link will show what needs to be shaved off the bearing housing.

Posted by: Jeff Hail Mar 23 2014, 12:58 PM

I dusted some white paint on the bearing carrier area (see the 4 holes for the retainer plate) to use as a guide

I then ground the 4 corners down while checking fit with the backing plate as I went. Once the backing plate fit like a hat and seated fully on the bearing carrier you are pretty much done. If you are powder coating take a bit more off to account for the coating thickness.

Cut the ear off that would has the bolt hole for the dust shield.

I mounted the pads to the backing plate with just the adjuster and the shoe mid pins.

I located the angled 40mm bracket as far into the pads so they did not stick out past the pads. I had to grind off some material on the bracket to get it to sit low enough that when the pads are retracted ( relaxed position) it does not sit higher than the friction material. The swaged cable end passes through the hole in the bracket.

I suggest you use the assembled backing plate as a guide as you go to consistently check fitment. Its easy enough to see how the mechanics work that way.

Once you get everything where you feel is right weld the 40mm bracket. On mine the bracket sat even with the caliper mounting ears.

Toss the 914 bearing retainer plate into your parts bin. You wont be able to use that. You will need the ring (stiffener) from the 911 with the 4 holes.. you will need to open up the holes to fit the bolt pattern of the 914 arm. I would not leave that out as I am not comfortable with the 911 backing plate as the sole muscle to retain the bearing.


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Posted by: Jeff Hail Mar 23 2014, 01:10 PM

The tube with cable is straight forward. I mounted mine so I barely had enough room to get the cable out of the backing plate if I ever had to replace the cable and swage a new end on. (probably wont but you never know???)

DO NOT follow my photos on where to locate the cable sheath stop bracket on the control arm. I am using a center pull handle so I am using two right side cables instead of the long/short system the car came with from the factory. Anyway I mounted the cables where they needed to be and relocated the bracket.

Hope this helps.


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Posted by: Jeff Hail Mar 23 2014, 01:18 PM

Don't feel bad my arms were coated once too. I changed plans and they will go back to Mr. Powder again.

Feces happens!!

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 23 2014, 03:01 PM

When you guys get them re-powdercoated, ask them to go "extremely" light on the line attachments. That is nearly a precision fit with the brake soft line and the clip. Same for the cable mounts.

Posted by: CptTripps Mar 23 2014, 06:19 PM

Thanks Eric. That exactly the thread I was looking for. If seen it once, but no matter how much I searched, I couldn't find it.

So I'm clear, I don't need the rear dust shield? Since that tab is coming off, I guess not.

Posted by: Eric_Shea Mar 23 2014, 09:06 PM

Factory manual advises to remove dust shields if heat is a concern in high performance applications. No real need for them.

Posted by: CptTripps Mar 24 2014, 08:26 AM

10-4. Thanks for the heads up. Guess I have a set of neon-green dust shields I don't need any more.

I got an email last night with an offer for a set of the "correct" brakes. I should have them this week...although not powder-coated. Maybe I'll do that this winter when I park it.