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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ GT Conversion No.2
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Mar 25 2014, 08:04 PM
Just arrived at the shop is another 914 for the GT treatment! The owner has had this car from new!
Flares are actually from Porsche.
remaining parts to be removed, then media and plastic blasting
Posted by: raw1298 Mar 25 2014, 08:11 PM
![popcorn[1].gif](style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
Posted by: SirAndy Mar 25 2014, 08:24 PM
Flares are actually from Porsche.
Cool, but won't make them fit any better than the repros ...
Posted by: Mike Bellis Mar 25 2014, 09:01 PM
I look forward to watching your work... 
Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 25 2014, 09:53 PM
Nice ATS wheels! I've always liked the way they look.
--DD
Posted by: 396 Mar 25 2014, 10:34 PM
Posted by: rick 918-S Mar 26 2014, 05:54 AM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Mar 26 2014, 07:09 AM
maybe i should start selling pop corn as a side job!
Posted by: CptTripps Mar 26 2014, 07:23 AM
maybe i should start selling pop corn as a side job!
As long as it came with free body work, I'm pretty sure you could make a MINT selling popcorn!
To Sir Andy's point: It'd be interesting to see your thoughts on the original flares vs the repros. I'm guessing (hoping) that he bought them a LONG time ago.
Can't wait!
Oh...almost forgot...
Posted by: 396 Mar 26 2014, 07:40 AM
[quote name='CptTripps' date='Mar 26 2014, 06:23 AM' post='2016195']
To Sir Andy's point: It'd be interesting to see your thoughts on the original flares vs the repros. I'm guessing (hoping) that he bought them a LONG time ago.
Here are my .02cents...if I was was mine, and I was putting all the effort into this conversion...I too would attempt to install as many "factory" parts as possible.
Only when they are NLA would I install a repo.
Oh...flame on. 
Posted by: mepstein Mar 26 2014, 07:45 AM
$4K vs $1K. Both requre welding and metal work. (yes, the oem do start out smoother) Repo's are slightly thicker metal. Both look the same under paint.
My money would be on the person fitting, welding, finishing and painting over 40 year old steel vs new.
Posted by: Johny Blackstain Mar 26 2014, 07:52 AM
Flares are actually from Porsche.
Cool, but won't make them fit any better than the repros ...
Very true, but it does make them thinner (gauge), therefore lighter than the repros
Posted by: boxsterfan Mar 26 2014, 08:27 AM
Yes!! Another car flared!! This all plays nicely into my hands to have the last non-flared Porsche 914 on the planet!! Mu-whaaaa-haaaaahaaaaa!!
Posted by: brant Mar 26 2014, 09:05 AM
excited to see this one
I've got a local car that I can't afford to fix..
but I watch and buy lotto..... so someday!
brant
Posted by: CptTripps Mar 26 2014, 11:28 AM
My money would be on the person fitting, welding, finishing and painting over 40 year old steel vs new.
EXACTLY! I'd rather have reproduction flares with him installing them. Put the extra 3K into a talented "Metal Surgeon" to do the install.
Posted by: rgalla9146 Mar 26 2014, 01:41 PM
maybe i should start selling pop corn as a side job!
As long as it came with free body work, I'm pretty sure you could make a MINT selling popcorn!
To Sir Andy's point: It'd be interesting to see your thoughts on the original flares vs the repros. I'm guessing (hoping) that he bought them a LONG time ago.
Can't wait!
Oh...almost forgot...
Ones from a LONG time ago were usually green or one of these other versions of ruddy prime.
Also, I've had un-mounted AAs' and originals side-by-side and there is no difference in the gauge of material.
Man, what metal work ! Truly excellent.
Attached thumbnail(s)
Posted by: Dave_Darling Mar 26 2014, 03:50 PM
<pictures cut for length>
Those are yours?
Can I hate you for ever, now?
Or maybe would you adopt me? (Just be careful about your response to "can I borrow the car"...
)--DD
Posted by: ThePaintedMan Mar 26 2014, 04:22 PM
Yes!! Another car flared!! This all plays nicely into my hands to have the last non-flared Porsche 914 on the planet!! Mu-whaaaa-haaaaahaaaaa!!
As poor as I am I figure it might come down to you and me. And Brant of course.My money would be on the person fitting, welding, finishing and painting over 40 year old steel vs new.
EXACTLY! I'd rather have reproduction flares with him installing them. Put the extra 3K into a talented "Metal Surgeon" to do the install.
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Apr 2 2014, 10:07 PM
Body loaded up for Plastic and media blasting
Posted by: 396 Apr 3 2014, 07:06 AM
maybe i should start selling pop corn as a side job!
As long as it came with free body work, I'm pretty sure you could make a MINT selling popcorn!
To Sir Andy's point: It'd be interesting to see your thoughts on the original flares vs the repros. I'm guessing (hoping) that he bought them a LONG time ago.
Can't wait!
Oh...almost forgot...
Ones from a LONG time ago were usually green or one of these other versions of ruddy prime.
Also, I've had un-mounted AAs' and originals side-by-side and there is no difference in the gauge of material.
Man, what metal work ! Truly excellent.
Nice stash there!
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon May 1 2014, 08:47 PM
and back from Plastic and Media blasting.First few pics,last picture is a left hand rear quarter repair done by a Porsche dealership back in the day!
Posted by: Phil Plummer May 2 2014, 06:14 PM
I just installed my Steel Flares today and they look awesome
But the 916 front and rear bumper are too poor of quality to continue
In fact they are total garbage.
The worst my body man has seen in 35 yrs.
Does anyone know where the good quality 916 bumpers come from??
Let me know Please.
Only painting to go and I am driving!!!!
Posted by: bulitt May 2 2014, 06:24 PM
I just installed my Steel Flares today and they look awesome
But the 916 front and rear bumper are too poor of quality to continue
In fact they are total garbage.
The worst my body man has seen in 35 yrs.
Does anyone know where the good quality 916 bumpers come from??
Let me know Please.
Only painting to go and I am driving!!!!
Try
QRS
A.I.R.
And Patrick Motorsports (I think some of his glass comes from vendors).
Seems all these FG products will need much work.
Posted by: r_towle May 2 2014, 06:50 PM
OP,
What is your name?
Also, do you bother to take any undercoating off or does the place you use blast everything off?
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon May 2 2014, 08:11 PM
OP,
What is your name?
Also, do you bother to take any undercoating off or does the place you use blast everything off?
my name is Jon Bingham
We let the blasters take care of the undercoating.
Posted by: r_towle May 3 2014, 08:18 AM
Jon,
Great work, always fun to watch.
What do you pay for blasting and do you specify they use certain media to prevent warping or do you just let them make the call depending upon the issues they run into like rust, undercoating, plastic filler etc.?
Posted by: Dr Evil May 3 2014, 11:51 AM
Posted by: rgalla9146 May 3 2014, 04:31 PM
Great question.
My brother sand blasted a 59 sunroof coupe in 1976 (?) had it painted then we ( with my sister ! 3 across ! )drove it to Seattle/Tacoma for the Parade.
Every time we opened or closed the doors we left a small pile of sand.
It was everywhere. Every moving part had a gritty sound.
How to avoid ?
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon May 3 2014, 04:51 PM
Jon,
Great work, always fun to watch.
What do you pay for blasting and do you specify they use certain media to prevent warping or do you just let them make the call depending upon the issues they run into like rust, undercoating, plastic filler etc.?
this car cost $700 to blast. We specify plastic on the outside sheetmetal ,even go as far as labeling and media for all structural.If your not sure on a certain part,label it for plastic.
the surface finish difference will be that plastic will give a more natural finish versus a coarse finish from media.
its a good idea to have a rotisserie to help remove all the media!
thanks for reading the thread
Posted by: worn May 3 2014, 07:54 PM
Yes!! Another car flared!! This all plays nicely into my hands to have the last non-flared Porsche 914 on the planet!! Mu-whaaaa-haaaaahaaaaa!!
Sorry to disappoint you Mr Bond. My 6 conversion will be narrow. Yes! Narrow, as God intended.
Posted by: Larmo63 May 3 2014, 07:59 PM
Jon, your threads and your artistry are fun to follow and learn from. thank you for the pictures and it helps those of us who are going to do these operations in the future.
Posted by: Cairo94507 May 4 2014, 07:06 AM
Jon- I love viewing your builds and you are a true master at your craft. I think Scotty B. and Jon should have a "build off" competition.....
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:15 PM
restoration begins of the inner front structure....original state
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:19 PM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:21 PM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:23 PM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:27 PM
left hand sail panel repair and replacement....
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:34 PM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:44 PM
rocker structure rebuild
Posted by: altitude411 Oct 21 2015, 09:45 PM
Looking forward to my appointment with the Dr. in April!
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 21 2015, 09:47 PM
Posted by: eric9144 Oct 22 2015, 09:51 AM
Such amazing work!
Posted by: bulitt Oct 22 2015, 11:57 AM
Jon,
Great work, always fun to watch.
What do you pay for blasting and do you specify they use certain media to prevent warping or do you just let them make the call depending upon the issues they run into like rust, undercoating, plastic filler etc.?
this car cost $700 to blast. We specify plastic on the outside sheetmetal ,even go as far as labeling and media for all structural.If your not sure on a certain part,label it for plastic.
the surface finish difference will be that plastic will give a more natural finish versus a coarse finish from media.
its a good idea to have a rotisserie to help remove all the media!
thanks for reading the thread
Thinking a complete strip is the only way to start one of these projects.
Jon- how do you keep it from flashing? Zinc wash?
Live and learn
Posted by: jmitro Oct 22 2015, 12:09 PM
Thinking a complete strip is the only way to start one of these projects.
Jon- how do you keep it from flashing? Zinc wash?
Live and learn
Just for reference, I had a BMW 320 acid dipped in Dallas, TX. Achieves the same result as media blasting. Cost approx $1500 +my time in transportation. They sprayed the car with some sort of solution to keep it from flash rusting, but it's only good for 2-3 months
Posted by: Rob-O Oct 22 2015, 12:21 PM
Thinking a complete strip is the only way to start one of these projects.
Jon- how do you keep it from flashing? Zinc wash?
Live and learn
Just for reference, I had a BMW 320 acid dipped in Dallas, TX. Achieves the same result as media blasting. Cost approx $1500 +my time in transportation. They sprayed the car with some sort of solution to keep it from flash rusting, but it's only good for 2-3 months
Hope you pulled the heater ducts out of the rockers first!
Posted by: Rob-O Oct 22 2015, 12:23 PM
Thinking a complete strip is the only way to start one of these projects.
Jon- how do you keep it from flashing? Zinc wash?
Live and learn
Just for reference, I had a BMW 320 acid dipped in Dallas, TX. Achieves the same result as media blasting. Cost approx $1500 +my time in transportation. They sprayed the car with some sort of solution to keep it from flash rusting, but it's only good for 2-3 months
Hope you pulled the heater ducts out of the rockers first!
Posted by: jmitro Oct 22 2015, 12:44 PM
edit....sorry to hijack the thread.
good work surgeon. Carry on!
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 03:48 PM
donor rear right quarter panel graft in ,including inner sale panel rust repairs
in progress
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 03:57 PM
Left hand rear fender graft in .
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:01 PM
removing cleco's ,tacking the Tig welding...
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:05 PM
removing the top of the weld with a 1/4" in width 4" in diameter cut off wheel
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:14 PM
metal finishing in process.hammer,slapper ,dollies and files
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:20 PM
metal finishing continued....
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:23 PM
defining with the sand board
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 24 2015, 04:34 PM
Posted by: 76-914 Oct 24 2015, 05:08 PM
Holy Shit to post #55. That is too perfect for any color but clear.
Posted by: JRust Oct 24 2015, 05:19 PM
Holy Shit to post #55. That is too perfect for any color but clear.
Looks great
Posted by: wndsnd Oct 24 2015, 05:41 PM
That is True Craftsmanship!
Posted by: 914-300Hemi Oct 24 2015, 05:42 PM
Looks great. I would not have the patience to do all that detailed work.
Posted by: Rleog Oct 24 2015, 07:04 PM
Superb. Thanks for taking the time to show us your work.
Posted by: RobW Oct 24 2015, 07:09 PM
Bad ass. Truly bad ass.
Posted by: cary Oct 24 2015, 07:13 PM
Jon, is that epoxy primer sprayed on the welded seams?
Posted by: pete000 Oct 24 2015, 11:53 PM
As usual simply outstanding.
Some day I would love to have my six refinished by you guys !
Just to make all the panels so straight and all metal !
Posted by: Cairo94507 Oct 25 2015, 07:15 AM
When I see work like this it takes my breath away. Absolutely first class. 
In my mind, a dream shop for our cars would involve you and Scotty. Of course you would be in the SF Bay Area........
Posted by: trojanhorsepower Oct 25 2015, 08:03 AM
Well all I can say is, I hope your proud of yourself! You have now totally destroyed my self esteem.
I don't know if you have raised the bar or just shown me how far below it I am.
Oh well. Something to strive for.
Don't mind me I will just sit in the corner 
with my inadequacies.
Posted by: Dave_Darling Oct 25 2015, 11:39 PM
Damn. Looks like it was originally made just that way!
--DD
Posted by: jor Oct 26 2015, 10:44 AM
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever."
Posted by: TargaToy Oct 26 2015, 07:24 PM
Can we see pictures of how the back sides of the new seams are finished?
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 09:24 PM
Jon, is that epoxy primer sprayed on the welded seams?
are you referring to the fender flare butt weld? if so then no
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 09:27 PM
Can we see pictures of how the back sides of the new seams are finished?
sure i'll take some pics of the underside and upload in the coming days
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 09:28 PM
And a BIG thank you to all the kind and encouraging words you guys put.
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 09:34 PM
Posted by: cary Oct 26 2015, 10:00 PM
Jon, is that epoxy primer sprayed on the welded seams?
are you referring to the fender flare butt weld? if so then no
No, the picture of the front trunk on Post #35.
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 10:11 PM
Jon, is that epoxy primer sprayed on the welded seams?
are you referring to the fender flare butt weld? if so then no
No, the picture of the front trunk on Post #35.
Ok, it's seam sealer, over the original seam sealer to clean up the area's
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 26 2015, 10:45 PM
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 27 2015, 08:02 PM
Posted by: Madswede Oct 27 2015, 10:04 PM
Damn that's beautiful! Hmm ... wonder if you'd be willing and/or able to do a simpler repair on a dented fender on my GT style conversion (with repos) and the need to roll the fender out about a half inch? 
Posted by: Philip W. Oct 28 2015, 07:08 AM
Damn that's beautiful! Hmm ... wonder if you'd be willing and/or able to do a simpler repair on a dented fender on my GT style conversion (with repos) and the need to roll the fender out about a half inch?
John, first of all, awesome work nice to see how you go about the process , step by step- those flares are amazing work, -
similar question here, - some narrow cars fit 7" fuchs just fine, some rub- mine rubs, - how would or do you go about pulling out the rear fenders or stretching them out 1/2" - 3/4" ? suggestions?
-looking forward to seeing the rest of the project!
Posted by: sb914 Oct 28 2015, 08:00 AM
Holy Shit to post #55. That is too perfect for any color but clear.
Wow,
I wouldn't paint either, talk about a "outlaw" .beautiful
Posted by: The Metal Surgeon Oct 28 2015, 08:44 PM
Posted by: mepstein Oct 28 2015, 09:25 PM
Holy Shit to post #55. That is too perfect for any color but clear.
Wow,
I wouldn't paint either, talk about a "outlaw" .beautifulunfortunatley, clear doesnt keep a car from rusting. clear protects paint, paint and primer protect metal.
amazing metal work
Posted by: tygaboy Nov 11 2015, 01:34 PM
Jon, I'll join the 'wow, simply awesome' group. (but isn't that everyone?!)
I'm about to install flares on my 914 and would love to hear how you position the flares front-to-back. I've read your blog and understand how you "clock" them via use of the body lines. I hear some folks use the rockers to align them but with the questionable quality of most fiberglas parts... I have to believe you have some process vs just "eyeballing" the wheel in the opening.
Any any insights appreciated and looking forward to more progress pics!
Take care and thanks for sharing.
Chris
Posted by: veekry9 Nov 11 2015, 04:00 PM
removing cleco's ,tacking the Tig welding...
omg omg ur awesum.
A reference for those who desire perfect.
I like the effect of the gloss coating,is that a converter,to be sanded for primer prep?
I was trying to neutralize FeO,and found the products from:
http://www.yellowpages.ca/bus/Ontario/Toronto/Robert-Automotive/3430456.html
http://www.chcpaint.com/
to be very effective,convenient,expert,knowledgeable.Canadian 914 restorers should at the least,give them a buzz.
Much to my regret,my results were only 'half' as good with oxy/acety while doing the flares for the Mustangs, '60s in the 70s.
At first I was brazing,then later,welding headers and panels with more acceptable conclusions.Thinwalled tube,5/16"-8mm,to reinforce fender additions to clear the big fat tires.
I used that Italian(Touring) method to do floorpans and trans humps.
At first you must learn(do it wrong),to get better at sheetmetal repair,a process of yrs of experience,like any endeavour.
"A little cheese with your flares?"I would say.
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