I have had this though for a long time to try and remove as much slop as I can in the shifting system. The tail shifter is a bit trickier, but not impossible. I have a side shifter in my new 914 and so, while I build up a transmission for it to drive to Hershey this weekend (this will be the raffle transmission, BTW. Trial by fire!), I decided to see how simple it would be to remove some of the slop.
First, see how much of a gap there is between the shift selector comb and the rod.
This is a huge amount so any bit that can be removed should be an improvement.
Step one was to add material to the sides of the comb faces (Yes, Scotty, I welded). Then, I hand filed the faces and re-formed them to a specific profile. The metal that was added was hardened and a real bitch to file. I figured it was worth it.
The end result was a much tighter fit.
There are a few parameters that I will not go into that need to be respected to get this to work, but the preliminary results were nice on the bench. With the material added and profiled on the faces, the stick throw fore and aft to select gears decreases significantly. There is still refinement that needs to be done on the profile, but so far the preliminary results are encouraging.
Next, I will build a jig so I can directly observe and adjust my profile. And I will also be able to see where I can add material to take up the slack that one feels when they are in gear and can wiggle the stick back and forth.
Once I get this prototype done and tested, I can do this treatment to any side shift console on an exchange basis and it will be a quick bolt on improvement (I hope).
What kind of clearance are you aiming for between the comb and the shift fork selector? .08-.1"? Seems like too tight might be a problem, but I love this solution... The never ending process of making these cars shift better should interest a lot of people..
Seems the play may be "designed in" to compensate for movement of the engine and trans under braking and acceleration ? But finding out how much is too much is trial and error (which I assume is what you are trying to determine). Could be dependent on the condition of your motor and trans mounts also.
So you say this can be similarly engineered for tail shift? Do you have access to a tail shifter to test/engineer?
For a tail shifter you would need the external shift rod, too. You have to add material to the ball. Then, you have to take the whole stack out to get to the internal shift actuator and add material to that. The real problem with the ball on the inside actuator is you have to put some material in a specific place on it (hard to describe) so that you do not get it wiggling side to side when it is in gear. To make a tail work as well as I can make a side.....it would be a task. I am interested in doing it, but do not have a car with this set up. Also, side is sooooo much easier.
I always looked at that coupling and figured there was room for improvement in the design. Tightening the clearances should help, but I assume there must be some 'wiggle room' to allow the slight angulation as you shift through the gears.
Would a system composed of rod ends allow for the necessary movement and cut down on slop, or is there more clearance inside the gearbox that would negate any improvements to the external components?
My side shift kit would just be the shifter comb. All other factors are being evaluated and controlled for. The fore and aft have been tested. Tight tolerance used and effective. Now I need to see about removing the side to side shift rod play in the cabin by adding beef to the thickness of the comb teeth rather than just the width of them. I need a jig for this and hope to make one tomorrow if I can find my sawsall
Looks good Doc
David
Thanks man
Dr Evil:
Delicate work,reducing the tolerance and clearances within the shifter forks.
Question:Are you using a jig to determine the distance to the ball detent?
I am about to embark on a re+re of the original tailshift TX that is now on the floor of the shop.Here it is 4 decades hence and I am considering a hydraulic shift mechanism
for the unloved early box.I have seen a number of attempts to resolve the "loose'
shift characteristics with limited success.There's gotta be a better way.
Cool!
Keep on pushing through with this Mike. BTW, if you need someone to do some testing per say with this, I'd be more than happy to.. Being a daily driver, my car undergoes more wear and tear than most, so it might be a good candidate for testing this out.
In all seriousness, I'm not trying to get a free part, but for longevity testing on the tightened clearances, it could be the perfect platform.
Doc.
My box will be in transit in a week. I am cleaning it.
I would love a tighter shifting box.
All inuendos intended and true.
I'll at least be testing the one iteration of this to, at, and from Hershey this weekend. I will let others check it out, too. I hope to get both parameters that I am shooting for resolved to my satisfaction. It all depends on tonight and Thurs. The transmission is pretty much done other than the case seals and assembly. Once the shifter comb upgrade has been tested in the testing jig I will be building, and shown to work, I t goes in the box and the box in the car.
I am serious about doing a tail shifter one, just for the hell of it. I just need a candidate. Anyone need a rebuild? I can also do a 911/912 box.....I think I will use my local friend for that. A 911/912 box would be markedly easier than a 914 tail box. Only one shitty connection to worry about rather than 3.
I have a tail shift laying in pieces from my last rebuild.
I wont be needing any of the tail shift pieces ever again.
I would donate to the tailshift cause if it also helps with the side shift development.
Let me know if you need some parts.
Stu
Ok, recruited a neighbors early 912 box that I just rebuilt.
Excellent
Killer!
Success!
Tonight was very good. I made a jig for evaluating the comb in action. Did so, and got a lot of good data that I used to direct where to add material. I added material, honed the profiles, and saw a marked 90% reduction in the movement that will be translated into lateral movement in the cabin stick shift.
The profile for the fore and aft aspect still needs refinement, but with a transmission to finish, and with being freaking close to perfect for what I was trying for, I opted that an 85% reduction in fore and aft cabin stick slop would have to do
The test tranny is almost done. About 1hr left and then I need to jack up the car and swap them out. I wish I could have gotten a short shift kit in time, but Pelican said 7 days to process order, and the rest of the retailers would have likely been too slow as well. If I can score one at Hershey, I will install it on the spot. I hope to get feed back from several people as they take a turn driving.
I am beat, and pretty freaking happy.
Id like to see one track tested this summer and hear the results.
You and me both I will make a few to send to people for such testing, I expect.
I think I will run down and take a vid of a stock one with play, and the modified one both being used in the jig Stand by!
Can't wait to see it this weekend!
I MAY have a short-shift kit from my last build somewhere. I'll have to dig through a few piles tonight to see what I can come up with.
(I really need to start digging through stuff tonight to see what I can/should take out there anyway.)
Awesome thread!! Would love to reduce the bowl of soup shifting feel in my side-shifter. Looking forward to a "production" model. :-)
Stock shift console with stock play:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vb2lBHNAVk0
Modified It was not harder to shift, just harder to line up with one hand now that slop is significantly reduced.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2SmpwTKYvY
Technical difficulties with imbedding....wait one. (fixed)
Yepp, I'm sold. Love the lack of slop. Sign me up!
That's bad-ass dude. Going to be a HUGE hit.
Looks good!!
Do or do not.....
I am feeling pretty good. Cant wait to drive it.
Doug, that would be friggen awesome!
I am in for this!
Where as a Rennshifter addresses the problem at the end of the chain, my solution will address it at the source and will be far less.
The only thing that I see as a potential for loss of optimal is the in and out play on a box where I have not adjusted the internal rods. If your rods are cocked ever so slightly, then you can run into binding. The easy cure would be to allow for more slop in this direction. Thus, it is looking like two sets will be offered: I install and custom fit one to your box, or I send you a unit to install that will be only slightly less awesome, but still a huge improvement.
As for the 911/912/tail folks, I am still working on ways to get rid of the side to side play in the stick. The anatomy of the mechanisms are different enough to not allow for the simple solution done to the side shifters. Probably need to make a special shifter ball end.
Remind me how difficult it is to pull this rod out for shipping
The RennShift addresses the large amount of friction in the factory shifter and adds the gate springs that 99% of manual transmissions are blessed with from the factory. Reducing play is only part of the picture. Lots of weak areas in the shift mechanism - have to hit all the links as each improvement makes the next one the weakest.
Edited out the drama after a good night's sleep...but you still get to see it quoted...
OK, unclenching performed - do I need to send a copy of my insurance card or is the first time medical advice free?
Evil, carry on and make this thing work!
Drama off:
So, to change this unit you would need to drain the oil, remove the external shifter rod, transmission in neutral, remove two nuts, pull the console, install the new console, reassemble everything, put new oil in, adjust shifter.
As for 914 stuff, this is pretty easy.
If I installed it on your rebuild, nothing different would need to be done when installing.
Sooo, on that note, I am about to finish the assembly of the test/raffle box and then drop the trans out of my car and maybe put the new one in depending on how tired I am. I was up tweeking until 3am with this and the transmission, back up at 830 and feeling it.
I got my latest tatt finished, today
Attached thumbnail(s)
Homeostasis has been achieved once again
do the math , large angles versus small angles....enhancement maybe.
My take on this:
I'm visualizing the stock shift mechanism as being very imprecise on both the shifter lever and the transmission console ends. The J West product appears to tighten up the shift lever end while the Tangerine Racing console bushings will tighten up the ball cup portion of the transmission console and the good doctor's mod seems that it will make the internal gear selection more precise.
Seems like everyone gets a piece of the action..
Harvey
My only question is, why you didn't get a perspective view V-10 tat
Waiting to see how it all works out
What is the mod?
Careful welding on that internal shift part. If improper penetration and hardness are not achieved you will be depositing metal pieces inside the box. We have seen some of your welding....
Ya ya. I already posted about this. Way to show up late to the party....
Hardness was maintained.
Alright, got the trans in last night/this morning. Drove it this evening in some areas that required a lot of shifting. I was expecting more. The shifter I have is very loose and was the instigator for me trying something new. With my enhancement, it shifts like a normal 914 with only slight improvement.
So, I have a Rennshifter somewhere (either at Scotts or in my boxes) and will try it with that, and with a short shift kit if I can get one, and with a rebuilt stocker. I think the best bang for the buck for the cheap-just-just-want-a-little-better club would be short shift and this shifter comb treatment. I need to drive a few stock ones and have people drive mine to get some more feedback.
Don't fret Doc, We have faith. The right guy is on the job.
David
About 1000mi tested. Adjustment was not spot on, but the shifting was actually pretty great. I need to field test this in a few cars to see if I get agreement. Also, I got another stick shift and intend to modify it to work better with the new setup.
Hey Dr!
Did you make anymore progress with this mod?
Anxiously awaiting the field tests :-)
Sorry, Dave. I have been super busy. I did figure out that one problem I was having has an easy solution that actually further improves things. I had been having trouble getting into 1st while stopped. Embarrassing and will need to replace the 1st parts before this ships to its new owner Well, the problem is that I can move the stick far left and right, like normal, but with my enhancements this much motion is not necessary. Simple, I will put it into 1st, measure the gap between the the shift ball month and the housing, and install a washer/shim of the right thickness. Now pattern is smaller. Probably can do this for 4-5, too, but they did not have a problem as when car is moving the shifter is guided into position easier.
Also, I have finally received my short shift kit. Took a month after ordering from pelican....sheesh. I look forward to evaluating this.
Another upgrade I am working on requires me to get another internal tunnel shift rod to be sacrificed Have not had time to search.
I am considering ways I can just make these and ship them, but they are so precise that any rotation on your internal shift rods, which would normally be well tolerated, would lead to binding and aggravation. If people are not interested in pulling their stack to adjust, or have me adjust, I could easily write instructions on how to remove material from the comb depending on what issue you are having.
This will be available! I am just interested in getting it as awesome as I can before I get them out to the people. Probably another 6mo out. Lots going on here at home
OK, I have some great news! Unfortunately my 2006 mini cooper S died a most horrible death due to oil pump failure (my primary diagnosis) which has rendered the engine no good. This has prompted me to get the 914 street legal (inspected) as I need a car sometimes. So, while I was chasing down a speedo issue which turned out to be the wrong angle drive on the tranz, I changed the speedo cable and decided to install the short shift kit. I already love the short shift kit and would fully recommend such as an upgrade that is bolt on, but coupled with the rebuilt tranz and my little modification the shifting is so good it is freaky! I need to find another 914 driver local, with RUNNING car experience that could drive it and give an independent observation.
I still need to put a shim of yet undetermined thickness on the part of the rod that is on the outside of the shift console. This will protect against missing first due to over extension when moving stick to the left. JMalone is gonna be one happy SOB if he puts this in with a short shifter. IF not, he will still be really happy, but WOW.
I need to mount my phone above the shifter and take a vid. It feels as good as a cable shifter and almost gated feel as well.
Mount a camera......mounting the phone sounds like it might suck....
Sure, as soon as you buy one for me
Doc Send me a PM about your mini, I can probably help.
Too bad you dont have a rennshifter to try it with.
It has adjustments for the side-side and fore-aft stops.
gereed75, hell yes!
Collin, I will PM you shortly. Thanks!
Stu, I dont, eh? I do in fact have a Rennshifter. I wanted to see if I can improve things simply so the iteration of experimentation is: Stock, short shift, Renn. I need to ship the shifter console as I want this to drop in and run with out any dicking around needed from the new owner (jmalone). Simple process, jack up while in 1st, measure the gap in between the outer coupler and he housing, remove coupler and install shim. Easy peasy.
My teener shifts notchy like a Ferrari. Biggest and best improvement over stock I've "ever" experienced in any 901/911/915 based system -- 914 or 911. Meaning, it actually shifts better than my direct rod 911.
Rennshift Level III Linkage Kit on a side shift console is the secret. What's the catch? James no longer makes them.
Good news? Chris Foley stepped up and offers a similar system.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm
***Make sure you get the spherical firewall bushing as well (just to the right of the linkage kit on their page).***
I wanted to retain my hand throttle and a vintage look in the cockpit so I installed a simple Weltmesiter short shift console under the felt carpet with a stock shifter and knob on top.
I always felt that the linkage below was a "huge" issue with the slop, even on a later side shifter. For me, this has been proven with this set-up. If you're unhappy with your shifting, I would suggest that the $4-500 you would spend on the Tangerine linkage kit will earn you dividends for years to come.
If you're not limited with "vintage" looks and are racing/autocrossing your car regularly, the Rennshifter is an amazing console. By far the best on the market. I have a feeling we'll be installing one of Chris's linkage kits in Mike's car (that has the Rennshifter) soon. I'll report back.
Interesting. I wonder if that set up would benefit from my treatment. Having never driven a Ferrari, I am gonna have to rely on your description
My goal is to satisfy my need to tinker with possibly offering a fairly inexpensive solution for sloppy, stick-in-bucket, shifting.
Eric, you mention an interesting contrast that I can address. The direct rod 911 will never be all that great. The problem is in the box itself. I may mess with this in the future, but the best I can conceive of for an easy fix would only offer tighter fore and aft with retaining the sloppy side to side when in gear (no gated feel at all).
However, I am planning on trying another experiment once I move the lab. An interesting fact about the 914 shifters is how they evolved. The original tail shift had a ball in cup in the center tunnel. This made for a nice fulcrum right at the stick that could effect precise rotation of the tunnel shift rod. Not a bad design, actually. The problem lies in the end and inside the box. There is so much inherent slop once the rod gets connected to the box that it shifts like crap even when in good repair. The shifter mechanism is almost identical to the 911, but with one extra spot for even more slop. I will mess with this in the future, but have low expectations.
Fast forward to 1973 and the introduction of the side shifter. The part at the box was very good and I can easily address the short comings at this point. There is one contact point inside the box rather than 4 sloppy, non-bushed ones. The irony is that they changed the coupler at the stick shift to a clevis. Basically the revers of the tails shift; now good in back, meh in front. The reason I say that clevis is not all that great/precise is that to enact rotation of the internal shift rod the clevis moves the whole inner shift rod side to side. No pivot near the place of action. Now the pivot has been moved a few feet away at the firewall bushing. Inherent slop again.
I have been thinking of a way to put the pivot point close to the stick again. I could just make a rod that adapts the old style shifter to the new style tunnel rod and shift assembly, but then you would have a reversed pattern with left movement actually being toward 4-5 and visa versa. Been too busy to really do much thinking on this. On the original early cars the rotation of the shaft was reversed at the firewall via use of the pivot bolt/coupler to the external rod that hooks to the transmission. Not likely interested in back dating that much just to mess with the shifting. At that point I see no value and do not project any improvement over what is already out there.
So far, the little change I have made, plus a short shift kit, is a pretty cheap and easy solution with a big improvement for those who cant/dont want to shell out the $$ for one of the other systems. I would love to be able to do a head to head with people evaluating all the systems. I would just want to see where my improvement would fit in. So far, I have only driven cars with short shift, renn, and stock.
I am thinking that, as mentioned in a previous post, Renn + this little improvement may = shifting nirvana. Interestingly enough, my enhancement could be done to Chris's kit and might add further improvement. This is hypothesis, though. Chris is amply qualified to modify the shifter comb as I have done as he is a professional welder
Doc, I have another method in mind that would achieve the same thing that Chris does with all "off the shelf" hardware. I bought the needed parts (about $20.00) but have not put it all together yet.
Drop me a line at gereed75@yahoo.com. Lets get together. I live about 20 minutes away. I'll bring my car over and and we can talk enhanced shifting. I think my wife wants to come along...... yea right
I had the full Renn to Renn set up on my old race car and it was a short and positive as you could get. No complaints except the rear part popped off during an autcross and the tip was 30% gone by the time I got back to the trailer...
Indeed, Rob, if I can not beat the performance and price point of a Rennshifter, which is arguably the best and easiest to install (not having used Chris's system), then I will be doing this for my own amusement only
gereed75, I sent you a PM, Check them
At the base of the gear shift lever in the cockpit there is a spacer sleeve (item 10 per the attached PET page), also called a bushing (per the Haynes manual Fig 5.27, page 89). I have never seen this listed by the usual parts sources and have never replaced mine. Is this a wear item and should it be replaced? Is it metal or plastic? When I did a shift linkage bushing restoration in the past I just replaced all of the various plastic bushings from the fire wall back to the tranny console. The gear shift lever bolted connection to the clevis in the front shift rod seemed very firm with no noticeable slop. The bushing replacement on my car was a major improvement, I think primarily because the two bushing in the shift rod coupling were literally disintegrating and the rear cup bushing in the shift rod head was cracked and worn.
Should the gear shift lever bushing be replaced and is it available?
Attached thumbnail(s)
That bushing is brass.
It doesn't wear much so replacement isn't normally needed.
However, leave it out and you'll have all kinds of trouble shifting.
Chris, Thanks for the info. I have had the gear shift lever console apart, but never unbolted and removed the lever from the clevis. Later, when I noticed that there was a bushing involved, I started questioning my oversight.
Hey! Do those shifting fingers get bunged up over the years?
I had my console out today for re-sealing and noticed the fingers looked....kinda worn on the edges. Would that cause slop?
I wonder.
Sorry for the less than great picture. Took it with my phone...
They can, but yours look fine....in a blurry pic kind of way
I finally got some impartial feed back a few nights ago when Spoke dropped by and I made him drive my car. He liked if very much I will let him give his impression.
Thanks for letting me drive your car. That was a blast.
I only drove it for short ride but managed to exceed the speed limit on every road and probably piss off a few of the neighbors.
The shifter felt very precise. Kinda feels like the shifter in my 930 which has very little play. You can feel the gates with this setup. This is a great improvement over my sideshifter and stock shifter with all new bushings.
I messed with this about 5 years ago on my own. It worked well along with all the other mods I did to the Autocross car.
Spherical bearing @ the firewall. brass bushings, welded the ball end of the console to the shaft on the side shift thing Evil is working on. I did weld up the slack / slop on the fingers. worked well enough to make my co-driver not miss anymore shifts. (he is a Miata owner). I never had issues with normal 914 sideshift sloppiness. Guess I owned too many of them.
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