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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ how tight

Posted by: jacksun May 26 2014, 11:11 AM

how tight for the nut (A) before tightening (B)

seems to be a difference in the "free spin" of the rotor if I get it too tight?

tks

r

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Posted by: Elliot Cannon May 26 2014, 11:20 AM

Once tightened you should be able to slide the washer behind the nut with a wide bladed screw driver. It should slide back and forth with some resistance.

Posted by: stugray May 26 2014, 11:25 AM

Just a note:
I used the "just be able to slide the washer with a screwdriver" just two days ago.

Then I rolled the car about 10 feet and had to remove the rotors again.
When I took them off the nuts were barely finger tight.
So next time I will tighten them just a little more than last time and be sure to check them after driving for a bit.

Posted by: Elliot Cannon May 26 2014, 11:30 AM

I always tighten more than necessary to seat the bearings, rotate the wheel a bit, then loosen just enough to slide the washer. You can check the bearing adjustment every so often when the car is on the ground by grabbing the top of the tire and pulling back and forth. If you hear a "clicking" noise, it's too loose. I had a friend years ago who over tightened the front right wheel bearing on his VW bug. The spindle got so hot the wheel came off on the freeway and took the next off-ramp. Luckily, there where no injuries. Just embarrassment.

Posted by: jacksun May 26 2014, 12:20 PM

thank you for the help..

first...my washer has a tongue on it to correspond with the notch in the "spindle?"

I tightened and then backed off as suggested.

as I back off about a 1/8 turn

I pull on the rotor to make sure it doesn't "click" and then

I tighten "B". the rotor turns freely......

I cant really move the washer.

the tip about when the tire is on is something to check "pre-flight".

thanks again.

r

Posted by: larss May 26 2014, 01:17 PM

I have the wheel on when doing this, rock and feel where I have a play.
First I tighten more then neccesary to seat the bearing, then losen a bit until I can feel a play at the wheel...rotate...tighten a bit until no play...rotate losen..and so on until Im sure where I just have (almost) no play there I thighten the lock nut.
Check after some miles of driving.

/Lars S

Posted by: stugray Jun 9 2014, 08:04 AM

I did this again last night.

I think the perfect method is the following:
1 - Overtighten the nut (while turning the rotor) to verify bearing races are seated.
2 - Loosen the nut until you can get some free play in the wheel (top & bottom wiggle just barely).
3 - Retighten the nut until no noticeable wheel wiggle.
4 - Verify that you can move the washer by prying with the tip of a screwdriver.

Of course you can tighten the nut until you have no wobble, but overtightening means you cannot move the washer.

No perceptible wheel wobble PLUS able to still move the washer = "just right".

I then drove the car a mile or so & jacked up the front and checked, and they were still just right.

Posted by: larss Jun 9 2014, 08:14 AM

Exactly the way I prefer to fovit.

/Lars S

Posted by: mgp4591 Jun 9 2014, 08:58 AM

Most auto mechanics (including myself) overtighten and spin the hub to seat the bearing a couple of times, then back it off til there's no tension then bring it back up gently until it doesn't tighten without pushing it. Done it thousands of times, never had a wheel come off. Of course, I always made sure the bearings and races were in good shape if not new, and the bearings properly grease packed. Don't forget new seals!