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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ step by step front wheel bearing replacement

Posted by: rmital Jun 20 2014, 01:45 PM

...keep searching...some will say a thread is out there somewhere...I can't find it.

so if your aware of a "step by step front wheel bearing replacement procedure" with all tools required and any tricks to make it happen,
please post the link.

thanks.... flag.gif

Posted by: bandjoey Jun 20 2014, 02:09 PM

Pmb performance. See the videos. Great company.

Posted by: mzalanka Jun 20 2014, 04:10 PM

Bottom of page:

http://www.tampabay914.com/4742903058/SEP2005.html

I'd recommend renting a bearing race driver set from your local FLAPS.

Posted by: injunmort Jun 20 2014, 04:26 PM

if you have the bearings, I have everything else bring it up, we'll knock it out in no time

Posted by: stugray Jun 20 2014, 04:33 PM

A complete bearing race tool set was just $29 at Harbor Freight just a few weeks ago

Here's the quick list (just did this two weeks ago).
1 - break lugs loose
2 - jack car up, jackstands, remove wheels
3 - remove rigid brake lines at calipers, cap lines (I used the bleeder caps)
4 - Bend tabs back on caliper bolt retention plates (use a cold chisel and hammer), but go easy, they are reuseable if you dot get all gorilla on them
5 - Remove caliper bolts and remove calipers
6 - using claw hammer, remove bearing caps
7 - loosen allen locking bolt on wheel nut
8 - remove wheel nut ( driver's side is LH thread)
9 - Rotors will almost fall off at this point
10 - remove wheel bearings
11 - with a drift pin (or pencil sized steel shaft) drive out the inner bearing races. There are slots in the rotor that let you knock out the races without damaging them. Alternate sides to keep it moving out straight.
12 - clean up all old grease on rotors so you can inspect the bearing race seating area.
13 - lightly grease new bearing race and set in place on rotor
14 - using bearing tool (50mm inner & 39.5mm outer) pound in the bearing races with a hammer. I have seen where people suggest freezing the bearing first, but I noticed very little difference doing it cold vs warm. Just pound it in until the sound changes.
15 - Check to make sure the race is seated all the way. You should not even be able to get a .001 feeler gauge in between the race & the rotor.
16 - grease inner bearing and install in rotor
17 - install new bearing seal on inside of rotor
18 - slide the rotor over the spindle being very careful to not drag the new seal over the threads or letting the rotor twist as the bearing race slides into place
19 - grease & install the outer bearing and the washer
20 - install the wheel nut and torque down very tight while rotating wheel to seat the bearings
21 - loosen the wheel nut until you can just barely move the washer with the tip of a screwdriver. You should not be able (or barely able) to wiggle the rotor at all when torquing the rotor top & bottom.
Leave the bearing cap off a this point.
22- clean the rotors thoroughly with brake cleaner
23 - reinstall the caliper, retention plate (bending the tabs back in place on the bolt heads) brake lines, and then bleed the brakes (do the fronts first, then be sure to do all four in the proper order.)
24 - reinstall the wheel
25 - drive around the block, then jack the car back up and recheck the tightness of the wheel nut with the washer wiggle test, retighten (will probably be necessary)
26 - set car down and THEN reinstall the bearing caps

Posted by: rmital Jun 20 2014, 08:01 PM

Thanks stugray!

Posted by: r_towle Jun 20 2014, 08:51 PM

Take it out.
Grease the new one
Put the new one in.

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