What you see below is a Dodge 318 with 123,000 miles on it. I had been having strange oil pressure reading and now I know why. Tuesday driving home the oil pressure gauge went ot ZERO and stayed there.
I wouldn't say I was a good boy and changed my oil every 3000 miles but I bet I will now.
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The oil was baked on like it had been in an oven. You could just scrape it off the block and heads.
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Yikes!
wow. hope the 318 in my truck looks a little better than that!
you going for the 360 now?
I will now change the oil MYSELF. No more JiffyLubes for me. WTF knows what they really put in you car.
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The oil return holes in the lower corners of the heads were damn near blocked.
Don't ask the price, I'll just tell you, $5300.00. Three year 36,000 warrentry.
Paul
Everyone needs to change thier oil tomorrow.
QUOTE (URY914 @ Jan 22 2005, 04:00 PM) |
I will now change the oil MYSELF. No more JiffyLubes for me. WTF knows what they really put in you car. |
Man that SUCKS
That looks as if the oil had NEVER been changed
Like they say "If you want the job done right - do it yourself"
Engine money could have been spent much more effectively on 914 related areas
Glad it wasn't the teener
GAZ
$5300.00 for a 318? Pardon the stupid Q paul, but why? Is that a brand new motor? That motor should not cost more than $1500 for a rebuilt, plus R&R labor.
Long block.
Looks like Quaker State oil----I have done a bunch of those kinds of repairs for customers--then try to educate them on the choice of oil they have made---some believed me--some did not--those that didn't were crying the blues very soon again..
Sorry to see that...
I've heard pennzoil does similar.
I had a 318 in my van when I bought it years and years ago. When it went, I bought a 340 from a guy out of a Cuda. It had more horse power than the 318 and 360 combined. It was an original with the 6 pack on it. It wouldnt fit under the engine cover so I went with an Edelbrock with a 750 Edelbrock carb on it. With the other mods I did it was over 400HP to the rear wheels. The thing would almost do a wheel stand. I sold the van when I came back out to California since it wouldnt pass smog. The guy let it rot in his side yard and finally sold the engine 12 years later to some guy for like 8 grand. It only had about 4000 miles on the engine. I sold him the van back then for 3k.
QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 22 2005, 05:27 PM) |
Looks like Quaker State oil----I have done a bunch of those kinds of repairs for customers--then try to educate them on the choice of oil they have made---some believed me--some did not--those that didn't were crying the blues very soon again.. Sorry to see that... |
Hey Paul what year truck did it come out of? I'm picking up a 63 VIP with a 383 here soon. The thing is ugly as hell, but man it hauls some butt!
DOOD
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=eproduct.asp&p=9009&N=120+%2D42064+%2D48465+309009
QUOTE (URY914 @ Jan 22 2005, 09:29 PM) |
So what should I use now???? |
I'm a big fan of Mobil. Particularly Mobil 1 but the 914 and truck both get HD30 till broken in. Jetta gets Mobil One and the Mercedes gets Drive Clean 10-30.
The bike does get Castrol R4 SuperBike.
QUOTE |
I will now change the oil MYSELF. No more JiffyLubes for me. WTF knows what they really put in you car. |
QUOTE (URY914 @ Jan 22 2005, 06:54 PM) |
What you see below is a Dodge 318 with 123,000 miles on it. I had been having strange oil pressure reading and now I know why. Tuesday driving home the oil pressure gauge went ot ZERO and stayed there. I wouldn't say I was a good boy and changed my oil every 3000 miles but I bet I will now. |
I have personally used valvoline hd 30w exclusively-in the teener, natural dinosaurs only,,and 20-50 in all other vehicles-whenever I take something engine wise apart for what ever reason , it is super clean inside--and my 1.7 motor has perfect rod and main journals, no wear at all, even my cylinders still have some cross hatch in them---do not know what the po used prior to me getting it, but it was obviously very high quality stuff. even the stock lifters were still useable, and my records ( take with a grain of salt ) Shows a rebuild on it somewhere over twenty years ago--it did sit for over 8 yrs in a warehouse tho--that much is confirmed.
All my power junky friends here at work swear by kendall and Amsoil--but they are v-8 watercooled engines, and those oils are tailored for the regime.
Start a poll--see what the multitude is using and the results of same!!! This would be beneficial for all concerned on this board....................
Obviously the 914 has been getting the attention lately. But, the type of carbon build up you have is from a very high ash content oil. also from not changing it often enough. Being that the oil in that engine has been subjected to very high heat, and lack of maintenance, its a wonder it lasted this long. So enough with beating you up about this. Two things. What do you use the truck for, and what temperature does the motor run at. Because the lifter galley appears in the photos to have many more deposits than the rocker area, which means the deposits are more in the areas that run hotter. So two things, Break it in on non synthetic oil then switch to a synthetic for the reduction in carbon build up/Sludge. And double check what T stat is in the truck and how hot it is running. Do you tow your 914 to races with this truck??? There may be the heat issue. Just my 2 cents. And JC what did you get a F ing crate motor from mopar. I would do that motor for 2K fresh incuding R&R. Hope you got an upgrade.
This problem is not Jiffy Lube or any other "quick lube" place and you know it. Just not maintained as well as it should have been. I use those places all the time, and have excellent results with them. Just make sure you check the oil pressure gauge after you start the thing. It never happened to me, but my friends RX7 got a new motor courtesy of Valvoline Quick lube back in 1994.
And for those of you that have bought the "slick 50" scam, better do some research. Start with oil SAE papers and then Continental aircraft engines dated about 1970. Cont did testing on PTFE particulate oils 35 years ago and their findings were this: if the particles were large enough to prevent metal to metal contact, then they would not make it through the oil filter and also clog oil passages. Now some one will obviously say I got 4 MPG more when I started using Slick 50, ever try changing the oil and slick 50 out of the engine and confirming that. Probably not. But I assure you it is the best time enduring scam as far as oils go.
Oh, and someone else may say Aircraft filters filter smaller particulate than car filters. Not these days bud. 15 micron is the standard and some even better. Continental stated that unfiltered particulates of better that 25 micron were necessary to prevent metal to metal contact. Also when they tried 25-30 microm PTFE particles a reduction in oil flow was noted after 3 hours of running. Upon disassembly some oil galleys were partially plugged. Not good. So think about this next time you ante up 11.50 at Walmart for some Greased Lightening,Slick 50,Snake500 or whatever the hell they are calling it these days.
Erik Madsen
Post Script: Check out the snow! Go Patriots
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I use:
Castrol in the trucks and van
Mobil 1 in the porsches
I make sure to change the oil often, ATLEAST once every 3000miles I don't care what people say about how oil has improved , or how filters are better, every 3000miles.
Sorry about the engine. Last engine I screwed was really old and had always used non detergent oil I put detergent oil in it and all hell broke loose. It needed a rebuild anyways
What about engine sludge reducers? Seems hard to fine, I shopped my FLAPs and found a lot of "treatments" but only the NAPA brand (Mac) had a cleaner that you weren't supposed to actually drive with it in the car. You put it in, idled for 5 minutes, and then drained it. Seems to me something like that has some strong oil breakdown chemicals which would really eat the sludge.
QUOTE (synthesisdv @ Jan 23 2005, 09:45 AM) |
is it really worth enough to sink over $5 grand in? what about getting the thing running and trading it in for something a little newer with low miles? |
QUOTE (Thorshammer @ Jan 23 2005, 10:20 AM) |
Obviously the 914 has been getting the attention lately. But, the type of carbon build up you have is from a very high ash content oil. also from not changing it often enough. Being that the oil in that engine has been subjected to very high heat, and lack of maintenance, its a wonder it lasted this long. So enough with beating you up about this. Two things. What do you use the truck for, and what temperature does the motor run at. Because the lifter galley appears in the photos to have many more deposits than the rocker area, which means the deposits are more in the areas that run hotter. So two things, Break it in on non synthetic oil then switch to a synthetic for the reduction in carbon build up/Sludge. And double check what T stat is in the truck and how hot it is running. Do you tow your 914 to races with this truck??? There may be the heat issue. Just my 2 cents. And JC what did you get a F ing crate motor from mopar. I would do that motor for 2K fresh incuding R&R. Hope you got an upgrade. This problem is not Jiffy Lube or any other "quick lube" place and you know it. Just not maintained as well as it should have been. I use those places all the time, and have excellent results with them. Just make sure you check the oil pressure gauge after you start the thing. It never happened to me, but my friends RX7 got a new motor courtesy of Valvoline Quick lube back in 1994. Erik Madsen Post Script: Check out the snow! Go Patriots |
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Obviously the 914 has been getting the attention lately ... |
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You need to call the Discovery Channel and see if they can hook you up with your own show. |
Ahem...make ya a deal on a '00 Dakota with a 360 and a blower....four door truck with a shell, cool stereo and LSD....35K miles....oil was changed religously....
bummer...sh!t happens it seems.....I came "thisssss" close to launching the motor in the wifes Volvo last week due to lack of maintenance...I thought she had the oil changed about a month ago, it must have been almost a year by how low the oil was (3.5 quarts to start seeing something on the stick)...and to think that earlier in the week and even that day I had rev'd the motor well over 6K a few times hot-rodding around (gotta love boost )
I hear ya on not wanting to get a new truck, mine is paid for as well...if I launch the motor or tranny, I'll drop a new one in and continue to motor on....
Paul,
Weren't you having problems with that engine when I got the wheels from you?
It sucks that it has to be replaced, but if it has not already been replaced you seriously should look at one of the MP 360's. Its hard to know what part of the 5000.00 is the actual engine since there are so many extras that need to be done when the engine is replaced, but it seems like the 300hp 360 would be comparable cost wise?
JMHO.
QUOTE (DuckRyder @ Jan 26 2005, 08:45 AM) |
Paul, Weren't you having problems with that engine when I got the wheels from you? It sucks that it has to be replaced, but if it has not already been replaced you seriously should look at one of the MP 360's. Its hard to know what part of the 5000.00 is the actual engine since there are so many extras that need to be done when the engine is replaced, but it seems like the 300hp 360 would be comparable cost wise? JMHO. |
Holy !
Sorry man, I feel for ya! Good luck.
I use Castrol in my toyota pickup and love it!
Im my 1776 VW, I used Mobil, Penzoil, and Vavoline.....all caused some very bad problems...Valvoline being the worst!
QUOTE (Rhodes71/914 @ Jan 22 2005, 07:24 PM) | ||
Those quick change oil place make me sick, nothin but horror stories. Have always changed my own oil, always will. It's really a pretty easy job and a lot of FLAPS will take used oil. Plus it gives me a chance to give the underside of the car a good look over. I like Castrol as well, Synthetic for the Toyota PU and reg 10-40 for the Land Rover. Change the Rover's oil religiously every 3000, 180,000 and still going strong (well as strong as a 3.9L V8 can in a 5000+lb vehicle). |
QUOTE (dlo914 @ Jan 26 2005, 12:43 PM) |
here's a horror story...cousin (female) had an old maxima..and the car needed a tune-up. long story short the place that did the job forgot to put oil into the engine, and my cousin didnt know and ended up baking the engine to death within 2 days |
I was changing a blown head gasket in my sister's Intrepid a couple of years ago and the inside of that engine looked identical to this one. I soaked and scrubbed parts for days to get it off. I got everything back together, cranked it up and there was a considerable knocking sound. I pulled off the bottom of the case to discover the main bearings were worn including one that was completely missing (even the backing of it). Needless to say that was the end of it, just wish I would have discovered that before doing the head gasket. I always suspected she hadn't got regular oil changes but she wouldn't fess up to it.
QUOTE (Toast @ Jan 26 2005, 02:30 PM) |
Im my 1776 VW, I used Mobil, Penzoil, and Vavoline.....all caused some very bad problems...Valvoline being the worst! |
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