Here's my delema. I think I may want to replace the floorboards in this car, but I don't want to 'disturb' the PO's repair job. OK, It's not perfect, but it's holding. I'm just wondering what I'll get into when I take this out, and find 100 other things that are wrong. THEN, if I do the rear floor, do I do the front too? If I'm going through the effort...you all know what I mean. Anywho...here are some pics.
The rear-lower firewall....just for good measure.
Thoughts?
BTW: Got a new welder today...Harbor freight has one on sale this week for 199 with the gas hookup. My old one is on eBay. =)
QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 25 2005, 05:32 PM) |
...Harbor freight has one on sale this week for 199 with the gas hookup... |
QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Jan 25 2005, 05:42 PM) | ||
you got a part number for the HF welder ? saw some in that range but none seemed to come with the regulator... |
QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 25 2005, 02:32 PM) |
Anywho...here are some pics. |
On both accounts.
Don't keep that ugly looking shade tree repair. If the car is worth fixing do it right!
If there's no corrosion forward of the lateral crossmember then get the rear pan half kit with the seat braces and do it right. If the pan is rusty and perforated forward of the lateral brace and you need to do the whole pan, I prefer the left and right pan halves. You've got options depending on your degree of pain.
And do what the Andymeister says about the rear glass.
QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 25 2005, 05:49 PM) |
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6271 I was wrong...it's only 175.00 No reg...but I can add a tank to it... |
QUOTE (9146986 @ Jan 25 2005, 06:42 PM) |
And do what the Andymeister says about the rear glass. |
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