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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Stripped Gas Tank Threads
Posted by: cary Sep 12 2014, 09:36 PM
Working on replumbing my new fuel pump. So I decided to loosen the nuts that cinch down the fuel tank output pipes. Big one came off without a hitch. The return line, that's another story. The aluminum nut totally stripped out. Steel bung threads are embedded with aluminum.
Has anyone bought the M18 * 1.0 die or thread restorer and cleaned those threads before? Kind of an odd sized thread.
Hate to give up on this tank.
Posted by: walterolin Sep 12 2014, 09:46 PM
Had the same problem, didn't want to buy a one time chaser (that's what plumbers call it). I took a dental pick and a wire wheel on my Dremel, and picked at the aluminum for a while. It eventually came clean.
Posted by: Harpo Sep 13 2014, 05:13 AM
My threads were damaged and I cleaned them up with a thread file. Took about 15 minutes but it worked like a charm
David
Posted by: cary Sep 13 2014, 08:50 AM
I'll pick up a new wire wheel on the way to the shop. Then I'll do some picking and see if I can get it.
Called Hall Tool. They have a die, but its $30. And they're not open on the weekends.
Posted by: Elliot Cannon Sep 13 2014, 09:31 AM
If the outside threads are totaled, you can tap threads on the inside and use a different fitting.
Posted by: Harpo Sep 13 2014, 06:52 PM
Depending on the OD of the die the second (return) fitting might to too close to thread the die on. A thread file will fit between the two fittings. One metric file has two ends and four sides per end yielding eight common thread pitches. A whole lot cheaper than 8 dies.
http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11039-Metric-Thread/dp/B003BZLK6O
Posted by: cary Sep 13 2014, 07:55 PM
I have one of those. Won't fit up against the rib.
The wire wheel and the picks did pretty good. The thread file helped in a couple spots. I think if a had a steel nut I could finish it up .............
The aluminum one starts about 2 threads........... so i'm making progress.
Posted by: cary Sep 15 2014, 08:31 AM
Did a little more research. Looks like the M18*1.0 is the only spindle nut that Nissan/Datsun has ever used. Comes in a Dorman kit or in a five pack.
I think I'll still get the die if its narrow enough to fit between the threads and the flange. I still five more cars awaiting restoration..............
Posted by: cary Sep 15 2014, 09:16 PM
Die was a no go. Way too big. We have about .33" of space to work with. It would have needed about about .75" for the die to make a complete turn.
Stopped at my go to hardware store (Winks) to look for a nut. No go. They only went down to M18*1.5.
Ordered the Nissan spindle nuts at the flaps. Should be in first thing in the am.
I'm going make a thread restorer with one of them.
Posted by: cary Sep 16 2014, 09:08 PM
Nuts did the job!
Cut a groove with a triangle file. Worked like charm.
Posted by: puffinator Oct 12 2014, 04:02 PM
Nuts did the job!
Cut a groove with a triangle file. Worked like charm.
same problem. would you sell one of your nuts?
Rob
Posted by: cary Oct 12 2014, 06:39 PM
I can do that ..................
Going work in the middle of the night. So I might run out to my shop in the afternoon.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 13 2014, 09:38 AM
I can do that ..................
Going work in the middle of the night. So I might run out to my shop in the afternoon.
Can you confirm these are 18mm 1.0 threads? I need to do this as well. You might can make some decent money for these prepped with the "V" to cut threads for gas tanks.
I would buy one.
Posted by: cary Oct 13 2014, 06:51 PM
Confirm : 18m * 1.0.
Might give it some consideration. But I'd need to buy a bigger V vile. And something to clean the threads with.
When you start to tidy up the threads The main thing is to use oil cutting oil.
Then only turn about a 1/4 to 1/3rd of a turn. Back it off. Clean it again.
Rinse and repeat.
Posted by: Eric_Shea Oct 14 2014, 07:07 PM
I knew it would come to this. Andy... time to shut'r down.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 14 2014, 07:10 PM
I knew it would come to this. Andy... time to shut'r down.
Posted by: r_towle Oct 14 2014, 07:25 PM
I knew it would come to this. Andy... time to shut'r down.
Sure, someone talks about selling a nut and Eric comes out of hiding.
Posted by: Eric_Shea Oct 14 2014, 07:33 PM
Not hiding. "still" at the shop. As you can see, I still have to vaccum. 
Posted by: sbsix Oct 15 2014, 03:44 PM
Eric, vacuuming and drinking beer do not mix.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 16 2014, 07:43 AM
Confirm : 18m * 1.0.
Might give it some consideration. But I'd need to buy a bigger V vile. And something to clean the threads with.
When you start to tidy up the threads The main thing is to use oil cutting oil.
Then only turn about a 1/4 to 1/3rd of a turn. Back it off. Clean it again.
Rinse and repeat.
Thanks Cary.
I am having a tough time sourcing these. Where did you get yours? Is there a Dorman number?
Posted by: cary Oct 16 2014, 09:44 PM
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=15670&cc=1212174
O Reilly's Auto Parts
Posted by: pilothyer Oct 16 2014, 10:03 PM
I would be glad to pay you for one plus mailing cost if you have an extra...with the v cut or not.........LMK...........Thanks.............Jerry
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 17 2014, 07:54 AM
I would be glad to pay you for one plus mailing cost if you have an extra...with the v cut or not.........LMK...........Thanks.............Jerry
Thanks Cary.
O'Reilly's states not available in store or Online.
I'm with Jerry on buying spare from you.
EDIT: I see where eBay has them for $11.63 with Free Shipping. I will go that route.
Posted by: cary Oct 17 2014, 01:38 PM
Rock auto
Use 1995 Nissan Pickup. Brake/hub. Comes up as
Spindle Nut. Like $2.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 17 2014, 01:45 PM
Rock auto
Use 1995 Nissan Pickup. Brake/hub. Comes up as
Spindle Nut. Like $2.
Thanks Cary - order is placed (minimum 5 pieces) $22 shipped to the door.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1212141&parttype=1616
Posted by: cary Oct 27 2014, 08:41 AM
I'm buying 2 pair of these to get something with new aluminum threads.
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288
Then go to an AN6 to barbed fitting. Should make it quite a bit tidier under the tank. With the pump in the trunk I'll drain the tank with the firewall to engine fuel filter hose.
For those that need hoses and fittings. I use A1 Coupling on Tualatin Sherwood Rd.It's a commercial place, but great service even for the dinky do things I buy. Last time I was looking to replenish my supply of Oetiker clamps and they took back into the warehouse to take my pick of styles.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 27 2014, 08:45 AM
I'm buying 2 pair of these to get something with new aluminum threads.
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=3288
Then go to an AN6 to barbed fitting. Should make it quite a bit tidier under the tank. With the pump in the trunk I'll drain the tank with the firewall to engine fuel filter hose.
I am thinking about doing the same thing in the Spring when I pull my tank in the '74. I will watch your progress - thanks!
Posted by: cary Oct 31 2014, 07:42 AM
Another lesson from this experience. After you drain the tank of POR15 sealer and your letting it drip out the big sender and fill holes (upside down). Clean the threaded fittings and put the nuts back on loosely, or the sealer will set up on them. Tried putting on the CB fittings last night after they arrived. No go, too much sealer on them. They'll need to be tidied up with the steel nut, again.
Heading to the hose store this am looking for barbed AN/JIC fittings.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 31 2014, 07:45 AM
Another lesson from this experience. After you drain the tank of POR15 sealer and your letting it drip out the big sender and fill holes (upside down). Clean the threaded fittings and put the nuts back on loosely, or the sealer will set up on them. Tried putting on the CB fittings last night after they arrived. No go, too much sealer on them. They'll need to be tidied up with the steel nut, again.
Heading to the hose store this am looking for barbed AN/JIC fittings.
This is the exact issue I have - but I used Red Kote. I now have a mess and I don't know what to use as a solvent to help clean up the mess.
I will use the modified nuts as a thread chaser.
Good luck Cary.
Posted by: cary Oct 31 2014, 07:49 AM
I'll update from the shop in a coupe hours.
Posted by: cary Oct 31 2014, 01:14 PM
Had I little trouble at hose shop. They don't really deal in the small stuff. But we finally found what I was looking for.
With my bunged up threads they were tough to get started and not go on cross
threaded. But you can see them sitting here with 2 gallons of gas checking for leaks.
Dry as a bone. But I am going to mark the bottom of the tank .... never remove bad threads
I tested one of them on one of my other tanks. They went on smooth as silk. Nice product.
Note : They seal with an O-ring.
I'd say for cleaning the threads if the tank sealer is your only issue. Clean threads with the nut with the cuts in it. Oil as you go thru the cuts. I turn a 1/4, back up a 1/2. Rinse and repeat until you get to the bottom. I took it off once and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. Then use a new unused nut to tidy up the starter threads.
Posted by: Kansas 914 Oct 31 2014, 02:05 PM
Had I little trouble at hose shop. They don't really deal in the small stuff. But we finally found what I was looking for.
With my bunged up threads they were tough to get started and not go on cross
threaded. But you can see them sitting here with 2 gallons of gas checking for leaks.
Dry as a bone. But I am going to mark the bottom of the tank .... never remove bad threads
I tested one of them on one of my other tanks. They went on smooth as silk. Nice product.
Note : They seal with an O-ring.
I'd say for cleaning the threads if the tank sealer is your only issue. Clean threads with the nut with the cuts in it. Oil as you go thru the cuts. I turn a 1/4, back up a 1/2. Rinse and repeat until you get to the bottom. I took it off once and cleaned the threads with a wire brush. Then use a new unused nut to tidy up the starter threads.
Looks like a job well done - thanks for documenting this repair so well - cheers!
Posted by: cary Nov 1 2014, 08:37 AM
Final couple shots ............
Tank with my notes on it.
New look under the tank ..........
Zip tie is to take a slight kink out of the pressurized line
New fuel pump layout in the trunk
So tank is sitting there with a couple gallons in it checking for static leaks.
If it passes. I'll pressurize it this am.
Posted by: puffinator Nov 1 2014, 01:19 PM
The fittings? Is that an AN-6 to AN-4 reducer and then a AN-4 reducer? Where did you get those?
Posted by: cary Nov 1 2014, 01:47 PM
AN-6.
Ordered from CB Performance. Part was cheap. $7.
Shipping $15. Was here in 3 days.
No reducer. That is AN-6 to 5/16 barb.
Did the nut show up yet?
Posted by: puffinator Nov 1 2014, 03:53 PM
AN-6.
Ordered from CB Performance. Part was cheap. $7.
Shipping $15. Was here in 3 days.
No reducer. That is AN-6 to 5/16 barb.
Did the nut show up yet?
Yes it did. Arrived yesterday and worked like a charm. Thanks again.
Rob
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