i apollogize in advance for the crappy picture phone pics (which cost .25$ per pic )
so...why dont a feel like my sway bar is doing anything? MAYBE BECAUSE THE UTAB UNWELDED AND TOOK THE DROP LINK WITH IT!!!!!!!!
PIC 1 - drivers side... this is what the pass side is supposed to look like!
Attached image(s)
and the UTAB of doom that took my tarett droplink with it!
notice the missing utab?????
Attached image(s)
Doh! I am in the process of installing a sway bar on my car and discovered that the arms already have the U-tabs installed. Before I found that out I made up some U-tabs from some steel that is a bit thicker than the stock tabs. If you want one or both you can have them. They are a bit ugly but they should work fine.
-Tony
a new set of drop links is 136.00 at pelican.
Why do pictures from your phone cost $.25? Can't you connect your phone to your computer to download them?
dude, that sucks...I'd make sure the other side is securely fashioned...who welded it for you?
I'd probably have a beef with him.
QUOTE (seanery @ Jan 26 2005, 06:00 PM) |
dude, that sucks...I'd make sure the other side is securely fashioned...who welded it for you? I'd probably have a beef with him. |
Bring it down here.....I can't weld worth a shit, but I'll make it stick!
QUOTE (SLITS @ Jan 26 2005, 06:11 PM) |
Bring it down here.....I can't weld worth a shit, but I'll make it stick! |
dooood. that sucks, sorry.
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jan 26 2005, 06:31 PM) | ||
i would if i still had the u tab it and the droplink are somewhere in southern california on a road.... |
nate, you think you can fool me that easily?
i know you broke my utab so i wouldnt beat you at the 914 cup! JK
ron..... hook me me up...
left and right hand threads
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jan 26 2005, 06:57 PM) |
nate, you think you can fool me that easily? i know you broke my utab so i wouldnt beat you at the 914 cup! JK ron..... hook me me up... left and right hand threads |
QUOTE (SLITS @ Jan 26 2005, 07:03 PM) | ||
Need a machine shop to drill and tap the hex bar.....Heim joints...do a search online. I'll look in my stash and see if I have one that is already made up that could be useable. |
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jan 26 2005, 07:04 PM) | ||||
i gots a few things ya could weld |
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Jan 26 2005, 05:57 PM) |
nate, you think you can fool me that easily? i know you broke my utab so i wouldnt beat you at the 914 cup! |
Did you take those photos while the car was underwater or something?? Swimming with the fishies?
THis is being overused lately (IMO)
Once again, Ira Ramin of tarett engineering cares for his clientelle. A new drop link has been sourced.
Ira, your the man!
everybody - if your in the market for a swaybar, i can only say good things about Ira, and tarett.
QUOTE |
you should see what i did to sabotage trekkor's car! |
Well, it makes me wonder how you lost the drop link? If it was all bolted in good and tight, the link may break off the bottom but should stay on the bar itself. You must not have had it as tight as it should have been.
Those U-tabs tend to rip off with some regularity on our track car. I think it may be a sign that the sway bar is set too stiff.
Sometimes the ear will tear in half, and other times the whole thing has ripped off the top of the a-arm. The last time this happened, I reinforced the u-tabs enough that they probably won't tear off again. However, the next weaker link was the sheet metal where the bar goes through in the fenderwell. I had one of those rip loose. So I reinforced that area.
I don't know that the round tube portion of the a-arm is strong enough to be effective as a mount location of the sway bar. My gut feeling is that the round tube will bend.
This winter I went with large torsion bars in hopes that I can soften the front bar to the point that I'm no longer over stressing the sway bar mount locations.
I never lost a droplink from tearing a u-tab from an a-arm. I use shake proof nuts on all that stuff and everything just hangs on for the ride once broke free.
My car really handles like crap without the bar working. (so it's easy to tell when it happens)
QUOTE (skline @ Jan 26 2005, 09:52 PM) |
Well, it makes me wonder how you lost the drop link? If it was all bolted in good and tight, the link may break off the bottom but should stay on the bar itself. You must not have had it as tight as it should have been. |
My did the same thing. Weltmeister. I wasn't sure if it was installed incorrectly or what but it snapped after the first DE. Luckily I had an extra drop link and switched it out. I didn't have another problem with it.
un-welded, a term I am not familiar with......
I thought one "un-welded with one of these
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