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914World.com _ 914World Garage _ Question about door jam/quarter panel joint

Posted by: carl k Sep 15 2014, 09:49 AM

I read that these two parts came from the factory as a single replacement. Are they spot welded, seam welded or braized? How hard would it be to replace the quarter panel using this as the splice (instead of replacing the quarter + jam together?)

thanks!
Carl K.

Posted by: nathansnathan Sep 15 2014, 04:28 PM

The 2 pieces are spot welded together.
Probably best to not mess with the seam if you don't have to; just section out what is needed and butt weld the new metal in. The seams will create complication. The easier you can make the repair, the better, easiest being butt welding a single layer, which is what the whole rear quarter panel/fender is (except the rearmost part and the sail panel). Steer clear of the door handle as there's a double layer around it, and the air inlet tube is complicated as well. If yours are ok, leave them be.

Posted by: rdauenhauer Sep 15 2014, 09:31 PM

in addition, the area at the top of the jamb intersecting with the fresh air tube & sail is leaded from the factory

Posted by: carl k Sep 18 2014, 08:47 AM

Thanks for the input. I found out how "ugly" the area around the fresh air tube is when I removed the replacement quarter panel!

I will try to butt weld the new quarter on. Making the joint at the seam will also help since the sheet metal will be two layers thick. Less chance to blow through.

Carl K.

Posted by: nathansnathan Sep 18 2014, 09:39 AM

The problem with welding by the seam is that it's not going to be clean metal between. Best case scenario, you have new weld through primer only in between. That stuff doesn't work that well for mig or tig - best to use a spot welder. You can't clean up between afterward, so the joint becomes a weak spot for more rust to form.

Butt welding is welding 2 pieces butted up to one another - there's no double layers involved. Just back the weld and there's no danger of blow through. Do it where it's single layered.