While at gas station 4 days ago, I reached in to release the hood to fill the tank. I grabbed the fuse panel and 3 fuses fell out. I was a block from home so I waiting until I got home to put them back in.
I didn't pay attention to what fuses they were. After putting them back in, I noticed the left side parking lights were on. The turn lever was in the neutral position. The right side works as it should. Turn signals and hazard flasher work as they should. I have a good schematic thanks to Jeff but I lack the ability to troubleshoot this #5 fuse circuit.
I don't necessarily need this "feature" and can just leave the fuse out, but it worked before and I would like to have it back to normal. I reenacted my motions, dropped the fuse panel and inspected it closely for short or grounds, dropped and changed the headlight switch and hazard switch. After 3 days I've gone as far as I can without some help.
Looking for help from those who may of had a problem with this circuit. It's getting 12V from somewhere. It's a 75..
Thanks. Bill
Update..
There are 34 pages when searching for electrical problems. So far I've read 28 pages
detailing all sorts of problems, however, none yet that helped.
The majority stress the importance of checking and cleaning all grounds. I cleaned all my grounds, cleaned fuse holder, replaced every fuse with new ones, removed every bulb, removed every fuse one at a time, disconnected that circuit from light switch. The problem still exists. I'm still getting 12V at fuse #5.
In tracing the path, with wire goes from fuse #5 to the light switch and then diagram says it continues to connection 67, which I believe connects under the passenger seat. This where I get lost. The relay has been bypassed. I don't see how this is providing the 12V to the left marker circuit.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I'm a novice with this stuff, I'm learning as things on my 73 fail/go haywire , so there's a chance I'm completely wrong, but looking at the wiring diagram, if you're getting a constant 12V at fuse 5 doesn't it have to be either the light switch or the steering column switch that's providing it? i.e. one of them is stuck closed/faulty.
There's only a single black/grey wire into the front of fuse 5 that provides the power. And, tracing back from fuse 5, that wire goes to the light switch first and then the steering column switch. So, logically, if something beyond the steering column switch was faulty it wouldn't be the cause of your problem because as long as the steering column switch was open there's no way 12V could get to fuse 5.* So my guess is it's your light switch.
Have you tried disconnecting the steering column switch? If the parking light stays on then that would point to a faulty light switch.
Oh, and 67, I believe, is the ignition/starting switch.
John
*this statement in no way takes into consideration the witchcraft that is the 914 wiring.
I'm looking at the 75 current flow diagram in the back of my Haynes manual - I don't have a schematic for a 75. I only see one wire - black/grey - into 58L, so I'm not sure what the other wires are for. Have you traced where they go?
When you say you have the turn signal harness disconnected do you mean the black/white wires that go from the turn signal switch to the turn signals? I'm pretty sure the turn signal circuit is separate from the parking lights, so shouldn't effect it. At least that's the case on my 73, and the 75 current flow diagram seems to verify that. The parking lights should also be connected to the column switch [okay, I just double checked and they are, if you find D on the schematic, that's the ignition switch. The grey wire connected to it goes to 30 - which is what E19, the parking light switch, is on.]
What colors are the wires either side of fuse 5? As far as I can see there should be one grey/black on the front of the fuse (nearest driver) and two grey/black on the back, one of which goes to the front parking light, the other the rear.
If there are two wires going into the front of fuse 5 have you tried disconnecting one to deduce whether one or both are giving you the 12V constant?
My car has parking lights. I'm not sure what difference there is, if any, between parking lights and 'european parking lights.' If there is a difference, I have a feeling it may be to do with the housings. Maybe someone else can chime in. Does your car have side markers too?
Okay, sorry, but this is as far as I can help you. It sounds like a previous owner did some rewiring, so I have no idea what's going where.
Your schematic should show you that the two black/grey wires coming out of fuse 5 go to front parking light and the rear parking light.
There should also be a single black/grey wire going into the driver's side of fuse 5 and THAT'S the one that should go to 58L on the headlight switch. Have you traced the black/grey wires from 58L to figure out exactly where they go? Are there any other black/grey wires going into your fuse panel?
Taking the two black/grey wires off 58L won't make any difference to the parking lights being on or off if the switch isn't where the power is coming from, however those wires could still be the source of the 12V even if you disconnect them. Try checking the connector on the end of the black/grey wires with a multimeter (when disconnected from 58L) to see if 12V is still running through them.
Then if I were you I would figure out exactly which wire is putting 12V into fuse 5 and then try to trace it back to its source. That will give you a much better idea where the 12V is coming from, and so may provide a solution.
Good luck.
Double post.
Bill,
I can't give you a quick answer here. I just have never had the need to troubleshoot that circuit. What I will do is look at the prints and draw up some diagrams to try to understand it better and see what I can come up with.
Tom
Bill,
Read your thread again.
The parking lights M11 and M12 will come on when either of two situations are present.
1 - when the headlight switch is turned to any position other than off.
2 - When the parking/ turn signal light stalk is turned to either right or left.
I suspected your parking light switch after studying the prints for a while. Now after reading your last post where turning the stalk to the left side, the lights go out. Put it to the middle, lights come back on. Sure looks like something is wrong with that parking light switch.
Tom
I remember once I wired up the front turn signals and parking lights wrong and one side stayed on....
Might want to review this connections
Bill,
Actually I was referring to the switch that is in the steering column. The part that controls when the right or left side parking lights are on.
30b is for the headlight motors. 58L is from the headlight switch to the parking lights. Sounds like someone has been doing some rewiring at some point.
I'll send these in case you don't have them.
Tom
Attached thumbnail(s)
Bill,
I left out that lights M1, M4 for the left and M3, M2 for the right also light at the same time as M11, M12. M4, M2 are the rear parking/ running lights. Don't think you will be able to just remove the fuses to fix this. Sorry to be the bearer of potentially bad news.
I can't imagine why there would be a black/blue wire where you have one. It is sure not on the prints being there.
You read the prints like the one I posted like a waterfall. Power in at the top and flows down to the bottom. The entire bottom line is ground. The numbers at the bottom are for reference. They do a couple of things for you. Remember your question about what the 67 in the yellow square at the parking switch meant? It means go to current track 67 ( another name for the numbers along the bottom ) , and look up toward the top until you find a yellow square that has a 30 on it. That's where the power is coming from.
They also are used to lead you to a current track corresponding to the numbers to the right of the circuit names on page 1. Say you want to look at the brake switch ( it is listed as stop light switch ) and is symbol F. Across from it you will see 51. Look at current track 51 going up to the top and you will see the brake light switch and circuit.
Tom
attached is the Bowlsby link to front light wiring.
http://bowlsby.net/914/Classic/zTN_Elect_FrontTurnSignals.jpg
It sounds like they are not wired right and may not have been noticed before.
I would recommend you check the turn signal/parking light bucket wiring and then the side marker light wiring to be as it should. Uncertain why you have an extra wire---have you traced back to source? (could it be a spliced in color to replace one that is missing--i.e substitute)
As stated this does happen when these front lights are wired wrong on assembly
I always found it successful to pull all the wires to the 4 lights and connect them one at a time. Usually connect the side markers and turn on light switches to check. The wire one front one, turn on to parking light and then full headlight----then do the other. It worked easier if the front tires are off to get better access.
Gary
Back to troubleshooting after 2 days of other obligations. As to the "extra" wire, I don't think that needs to be addressed now. It probably will come to play when I hook up the head lights, which I've been putting off. It was fine as is before so I don't see how this could be the problem. After working for years, I doubt that this wire decided that all of a sudden it wasn't, unless something else failed. I think the headlight switch is the fault.
I get continuity between 30 and 30b when switch is off and 30b is what this wire terminates on, with the other end on the hot side of fuse 5. 30 is the constant 12V. I guess my spare headlight switch could have the same short.
It would be great if someone with a spare good switch could check for continuity between 30 and 30b when the switch is off, just to be sure. Looking at the diagram, there is a thin line between 30 and 30b. Does this mean they are connected and there should be continuity? Your help is much appreciated. Bill
Bill,
Yes, there should be continuity between 30 and 30b. The wire that now goes to 30b and on to fuse 5 is wrong. The wire that goes from the headlight switch to fuse 5 should be coming from 58L. Did you understand my post on reading the prints? I can give you a call and coach you if needed, just let me know., and PM me your number. That headlight switch contact 30b goes to the headlight motors. What wire currently goes to the contact 58L? I think that is where your problem lies. Find it and put it on 30b and the wire currently on 30b to 58L and try that.
Tom
Bill,
The headlights are not hooked up? Well, with 30b having no wire going to the headlight motors, the headlights will not close after being on.
It looks more and more like someone had done some replacing/rewiring in this area and got things hooked back up incorrectly.
The headlight switch does have a black/blue. It should run from 56 of the headlight switch to 15 of the fog light switch. The Haynes manual doesn't show this wire, but the print I posted here does.
I just checked the print in the Haynes manual. It does not even have a fog light switch. ???
At this point, I would pick what information you need from the print I sent you, it is different from the Haynes manual, and wire up your headlight switch, parking light switch, and fog light switch following those and see what works or doesn't work.
I know this brings up the question of how it worked before if you are seeing mis- wired switches, etc. I sure don't know what to tell you there.
Tom
Progress, of sorts. I found 2 wires that were reversed. After a lot of tracing, realized that the wiring for fuse 5 and 7 were switched.
All circuits were working under this state except for the parking lights, now, at least. the left side marker lights do not stay on. The marker lights for either side do not come on at all now. More tracing to do on this. Parking, hazard, turn, all work.
Also the wire on 30b of the headlight switch was not the correct one. The correct one, (blk/grn), was on the terminal designated for a black wire. These wires, under cursory inspection, look similar, mild soap showed their colors. The headlights should work when I get around to hooking them up (I'm not looking forward to the adjusting part).
I'll probably never find out what caused the left side markers to come on after bumping the fuses. What I suspect is that #5 fuse wasn't making contact until I bumped it or put it back in, that could of been one of the fuses I knocked out. I do have the fuse cover and I'm sure to keep it on from here on out. Bill
As mentioned earlier, there are more than 30 pages of electrical problems. What is missing is the solution to most of these problems. Most of the problems were resolved by one or more of the recommendations by members I would assume, without the originator posting the fix.
I was very happy that my electrical glitch was resolved. I didn't post the fix, so here it is, better late than never.
I don't know what the cause of the original problem was. What I do know is that it's all good now and here is what I done, one of these was the culprit.
Received good diagram from Jeff. Went to Staples and had it blown up and laminated. Got dry marker so I could write and draw on it. Tom gave good advice on how to read the diagram and trace circuits.
I found headlight had 2 wires reversed, fuse 5 and 7 wires were reversed. I replaced all fuses, cleaned fuse block, wire brushed all grounds. Checked bulbs.
Everything works, even the Euro parking lights. Most circuits worked before, now they all work as they should.
Thanks to all who posted to thread.. Bill
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